1x (Single Chain Ring) Bicycle Drivetrains: View this before conversion or buying

[@mysticscavenger6026]

Do you think a narrowide chain ring will worn out a chain faster?

[@tony10speed]

I think it's more a matter of chainline. A poor chainline, especially involving the larger cogs may wear the chain, chainring and cogs faster the it would if the chainline is set properly. Here's the one of the few references on the topic: int.oneupcomponents.com/pages/understanding-chainline-for-optimal-1x-conversions-boost-and-non-boost Regards, Tony

[@mysticscavenger6026]

@@tony10speed thanks for the information

[@tony10speed]

@@mysticscavenger6026 Here's an interesting discussion of chain and chainring wear on a 1x system: www.mtbr.com/threads/narrow-wide-chainring-wear.971662/ Learn something new everyday. Regards, Tony

[@magaman6353]

I had a 44 tooth 1X Wolftooth chainring on my Cannondale Quick 3, and it was still going strong after 7,000 miles and 4 years (including 4 winter use in Canada). That is until the bike was stolen 6 months ago. Now I've got another 44 tooth Wolftooth on my new Opus Orpheo, (replacing the annoying factory Shimano 3x9) but have only put about 1,200 miles on it so far. Anyhow, I love 1x's and will never go back. No chainline problems either.

[@4336aaa]

@@magaman6353 Why is a 3x9 transmision annoying?

[@DennisNowland]

Very good. You can't beat mechanics. There is a lot to be said for a triple. Thanks for sharing.

[@tony10speed]

You're welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@pjmd8304]

Try fix the charing at backside of crank.

[@AlexHasAnAxe]

First of, thank you for your service Second, thank you for the informative video

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. First Cav, Medivac. Our moto: "So Others Can Live." Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@dan2304]

As a frame builder (retired) particularly for larger males, I offset the rear chain stays by 7-8 mm to the drive side. Allowes symmetrical lacing of the rear wheel and provides much improved chain line. Stronger more reliable rear wheel for heavy riders (100 + kg) and better shifting and chain life. The purpose of a bicycle is to carry and be powered by people over distance with more efficiency. The engineering of modern bicycles does not take that purpose seriously. Most bicycles are pretend clones of racing bikes either dirt or road.

[@tony10speed]

I totally agree with you and appreciate your comments. Most cyclist want to look like pros and don't consider bike fit that suits there body structure, comfort, efficiency, and they're main goals in cycling. Unfortunately, the bike industry doesn't help in recognizing these factors. Thanks for your in site and regards, Tony

[@chadkline4268]

Exactly right!! I've been complaining about this since I've had KZbin (2 years).

[@cinemashow-5]

Thank you Tony, very informative with good clear filming angles. I have never been able to understand why cross-chaining has never been regarded (by those that market/sell) as an issue for 1x systems.

[@tony10speed]

As you can see, in some setups (not all), it can be resulting in noise and chain wear. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@pablomarquez4431]

I love my 1x. I installed them on 2 of my road bikes. I got a 11spd 11-32 with a 46t wolftooth ring. I love the simplicity and little extra weight savings also makes the bike look cleaner.

[@tony10speed]

I have a 1x on my mountain bike that works like a charm. Some road bikes can be converted to a 1x but other (as in the video) present noise problems when in the smallest or largest cogs probably due to the extreme chain line. Some new bikes present the same problem. The point of the video is just to point this out and make sure it works in all gears before you and the bike leave the shop. Regards, Tony

[@pablomarquez4431]

@@tony10speed yes. Great video. Never noticed any noise in the 32T /11th gear. Maybe I got lucky. Ill check the center line too. Great observation.

[@jameslefleur1970]

1X is simple. I don't race but like the ability to have a big gear and a granny gear. I'm setup with a 48t chainring by 11-42 cassette. I use every gear, there is no redundancy. If I'm going on an extreme hilly ride I switch to a 42t chainring for that specific day. My only issue is that I often have to plan what chainring I'm going to use for what type ride depending on the terrain.

[@pierrex3226]

@@jameslefleur1970 Exactly. 2x existed for a reason: they make sense :) Now if you want to worry about changing your crankset every week (and the chain, too, if you want to have optimal shifting), then go ahead :)

[@JozepLazovic]

Are you sure you save weight? You save in the front but your cassette is then huge and then .

[@jamieahern9992]

Thanks so much. Very informative and helpful. I'm not a novice but I'm far from a pro, so the way you explained things was great. Keep up the good work.

[@tony10speed]

Thank you. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@samspade1418]

Another option besides buying a new crank arm is to create your own spacers to move the crankring to the backside of the crank arms. In my case, four stainless steel washers from my local ACE hardware, a dremel and a little time is all it took.

[@tony10speed]

That can work as you point out. However, at least on some bikes, the front chainring does not sit in the crank arm stops and hard pedaling puts a lot of stress on the four bolts (or five depending on the crank arm). The crank and chainring I used I picked up on Ebay and was not expensive. My biggest problem with the conversion was noise in the largest and smalls rear cogs due to extreme chain line. This problem does not occur on all bikes but something one has to consider. Thanks for your info and experience. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@alexmalone1642]

Tanks Tony from Bucharest România 🇺🇸!I used 1x12 transmission

[@tony10speed]

Glad it worked for you. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@nagylevi3827]

My Rockhopper had this issue, from the factory. On the smallest rear cog it was loud and annoying by default. I got extremely lucky, in that I changed my bottom bracket about a year after buying it and, purely by accident, the new BB I had chosen had a wider axle and that fixed the issue.

[@tony10speed]

Marvelous work even if it was by accident. In our case, changing the bb helped some but did not eliminate the noise. But something to consider when hearing cassette noise with a 1x. Thanks for your input and safe cycling, Tony

[@knife1406]

usually pedaling backwards its mostly a gravel or mountain bike thing since you need to ratchet the cranks to get your pedals over rocks or big roots

[@tony10speed]

Thanks knife. All the more important to check the 1x mountain bike systems before you buy. You want the chain to stay in the larger cogs as you pedal backward. Regards, Tony

[@lesterroberts1628]

on the road i also do it to avoid pedal strikes when leaning into turns

[@Nosirrah2112]

Ive been riding for a while now and i want to switch to a narrow wide. I locked my front derailleur already and i havent had any problems with gear range. I got issues with chain jumping even when it was all stock. This video helps alot thanks

[@tony10speed]

Was the jumping on the front chainring or rear cog? Have you switched to a narrow wide and has that helped?

[@4336aaa]

This a good example of people following trends with no real good reasoning. 1x became a thing because of the need to lessen the chance of throwing a chain in serious and competitive mountain biking. Then through marketing and internet reasoning everybody needs to have a 1x setup. Tubeless tires fall within this same situation...........Buying new components is fun, but not always necessary.

[@tony10speed]

I would agree. I think that people choose the 1x because there's one less thing to think about when shifting. The tubeless and disc brakes require a whole new skill set to maintain the bike. I see a lot of club members calling Uber when they get a tubeless tire flat and/or off to the bike store when their disc brakes start squealing.

[@Timbotao]

also a lot of Mountain bikers like to free up the space on the handlebars with less clutter (of the front derailleur shifter) so they can fit a dropper post control where that was

[@PatrickKend]

I still ride my 2010 Scott Speedster with a 3x9 drivetrain. I just don't care enough about new trends to switch to anything else and still love riding this bike

[@potsy9973]

I bought the same sprocket (32T version ) there a good value @$8. They even included the hex bolts as a bonus. To convert a Specialized rockhopper to a 1x8. Mine would only bolt to the inside of the spider in the same position as the stock 2nd (middle) ring. I didn't use any washers or anything to alter the chains line. My chain looks straight on the 3rd gear cog and has no problem shifting through the other gears. The bike wasn't fussy about reverse peddling either. I rolled the crank back washing the bike and doing chain maintenance and it rolled along no problem. It didn't jump off of the cassette or do anything weird. I think if the change made using the highest couple gears act dodgy I could still live with it. I do most of my riding in 3rd gear anyway.

[@tony10speed]

The 1x conversion problems occur on some bikes and not others. The video is a "cautionary" tale some one is aware of problems that possibly can occur. Thanks for your comment and safe cycling, Tony

[@demri123]

Wow good job for 8 dollars!

[@Boopop1024]

My Larry Vs Harry Bullitt cargo bike is 1x, but then it also has hub gears so so far as the chainline is concerned, it may as well be single speed 😁 Interesting video, I liked the switching of the crankset to get a better setup :)

[@tony10speed]

You're welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@weaselpopper]

If you use the same triple crank converting to a single just use the middle 32-34 chain ring and leave it on the underside-same middle position of the crank. I`ve done it on three bikes now works and looks just fine.

[@tony10speed]

You can do that, but my daughter wanted lower gears to go up hills. To accommadate that, she wanted a 30T on the front and an 11/40 on the rear (the 30 would not fit on a middle position of a triple crank - BCD of the chainring is too small to fit a 30T, at least with the triple cranks that I had in storage). But those that require simplicity without shifting a front derailleur, use of just a middle of a triple would work. Thanks for your comment. Regards, Tony

[@sagehiker]

Calculating your chain line ahead of time can help selecting a matching square taper bottom bracket. I lucked out on my first conversion. My first also changed my derailleur to long cage and wider range cassette for climbing hills with a big body rider.

[@tony10speed]

Good points. Our viewers would like to know how you calculate the chain line?

[@sagehiker]

@@tony10speed I installed a Prime Box 2 on a Diamond Back Topanga. I mounted the wheel with the new cassette, 9 speed, on a wheel. I took my longer metric T-square, I am close to Canada, lined up on the middle gear, between 4-5, and took another square out from the mid-line of the seat. I came up with 50mm. This was going to be a 1X. I went with a 103mm square taper BB. It did cut a bit close. I would go 105mm next time to give some more room but it works well wit a 32t chain ring and direct mount crank.

[@tony10speed]

@@sagehiker Very clever and easier then Park Tools calculation method. Thanks, Tony

[@sagehiker]

@@tony10speed Rough Neck Tech rules! :)

[@lesterroberts1628]

@@sagehiker without the T-square, i wonder if i can set the bike upside down and hang a string down from the 4th cog on the cassette. the only problem is making sure the bike is level before i measure it

[@garygech]

Great video. I find the benefit of a one-by, acceleration on trail. I recently purchased a used Santa Cruz Stigmata and the one by works by making the bike psychologically fast, but you lose power options, and you lose some teeth on big pitch climbing. My advice is simple, take the bike and convert it to a reciprocal of your relationships. All in all, the goal is to have safe and wonderful relationships that motivate you to enjoy the sport together. If you are fixing your daughter's bike, you are teaching her independence.

[@tony10speed]

Thanks for sharing. Some new 1x work very well. Last year I put together a Giant 1x which works great on the "Rails to Trail" but as you said, it has limited gear capacity. But for me, it just enough. The point of the video is to consider all these facts as well as noise when converting or buying a new 1x bike. Regards, Tony

[@garygech]

@@tony10speed Thanks for writing back, I like your channel! I recently started using my Trek 7.5 as a 1x because I changed the chain myself and shortened the chain too much! But my rule is to learn and live with my mistakes for a while. I have been using Zwift on a Garmin, and it is great. I set a plan, ride once a day outside for fun, about 1 hour, ride 30 minutes to 45 minutes a day at night on the Trek 7.5 with the Garmin Trainer for building power and cadence.

[@cliffharrington6500]

I just converted my Cervello P2 from 52/34 to single 55. The rear cassette is factory 11/28 and I had to adjust the rear derailer to prevent selecting of the 28 cog because the noise was loud and it caused chain-off events. Since doing this I have improved my hill climbing and learned to apply more watts output and plan the hill climbs better. Getting used to slowing down and selecting easier gears must have been hurting my performance because I seem to fly up the hills a whole lot better now. I may look at an offset crankset like you have used to enable the 28 cog, in fact I ordered a new 11/34 rear cassette to expand the range a little for the really steep hills.

[@tony10speed]

Check out the specs on the rear derailleur that it can handle a 34 rear cog. The specs will tell you the largest size cog it can use. Sometimes, a Wolf Hanger Extender will allow slightly bigger cog, but not by much. As to the noise in the largest cog, changing the chain line can help. This can be accomplished by a front chainring that attaches to the inside of the crank as shown at about 3 minutes into the video. In addition, a slightly shorter bottom bracket may be in order. Lot of things to consider when upgrading your drivetrain. Regards, Tony

[@duayaelac]

Interesting video, thanks.

[@tony10speed]

You're welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@adonikam1]

EXCELLENT EXCELLENT EXCELLENT VIDEO!! GLAD I FOUND YOUR CHANNEL, I SUBSCRIBED!!

[@tony10speed]

Thank you. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@ianpearson8976]

i run a 1 x 10 system 42 at the back and 34 at the front.Now yes its great for uphill but on the flats and down i dont have enough high gears.Also cross chainging is a problem.I am considering going to a 2 x 10 system and front derailleur.

[@tony10speed]

After trying the 1 x 10, I also prefer a 2 x 10 for the same reasons you mention. Regards, Tony

[@antman5474]

I've just installed that exact same crank set up on a 68/113 bottom bracket mounted to a 26er mtb with 135mm rear axle. I'm running a 7 speed cassette and chain. I have however bolted the chain ring to the inside of the crank arm. The chain line is perfect and it looks like a 46t chain ring would fit without interfering with the chain stays. Boy, that's a lot of jargon right there but I'm sure you had no trouble with the translation. I was tempted to go with a 9 speed once my chain needs replacing but having watched this I may go for an 8 instead. It looks like the 9 speed chain is perhaps too narrow for the narrow/wide chain ring.

[@tony10speed]

Narrow-wide chainrings are also available to suit different ‘speed’ drivetrains. For example, a 9-speed chain is wider than a modern 12-speed chain, so it requires a different profile of narrow-wide teeth for the best performance possible. Not all narrow-wide rings use exactly the same tooth profile for the "wide" teeth, so take that into consideration. A company like Wolftooth advertises that their rings are for 9/10/11/12 (caveat that not all 12 speed chains are interchangeable). Wolftooth also notes that if you're using a 9 speed system, use a 10 speed chain for better chain retention. You can generally use a chain for one higher "speed" without much issue. If you have a 6/7/8 speed system (these all use the same chain), you should consider using a 9 speed chain on your 9-12 narrow-wide, as it will work with the rear derailleur and will fit the narrow-wide chainring better than a 6/7/8 chain. "Does the structure of the chainring help with lower speed(like 6,7,8 speed) chains as well? " It would certainly work better than a standard 6/7/8 chainring in a 1x system. 12speed chains and chainrings are a whole different bag of dicks. There are different standards for 12 speed chains which means you want to make sure the narrow-wide chain ring you're buying is specific to the type of 12 speed chain you have. One additional note: For inner chain width there are the following standard dimensions: Single speed chains have inner width of 1/8″ (3.175 mm). Multi speed chains, from 5 to 8 have inner width of 3/32″ (2.38 mm). Multi speed chains from 9 to 12 speeds have inner width of 11/128″ (2.18 mm). This is why the 9 speed chain on the Wolf narrow-wide (9-12 speed) works better then the 8 speed. Anyway, I hope this helps. Regards, Tony

[@antman5474]

@@tony10speed Thank you for all the data you've shared with me and so promptly. When I started riding a pushbike (English terminology) the first one I rode that had gears was by todays standards a 1x5 and a brand new one at that, complete with downtube friction shifter. It never dropped a chain. So how did it do it? It didn't require the narrow/wide chain ring or a clutched rear derailleur to achieve this almost impossible to achieve feat by todays standards. It did it because the rear sprocket only had 5 cogs. It was always never that far removed from its perfect chain line. Todays bikes with their cadence fetish issues simply cant compete. It's always going to be a compromise. But I'm not giving up. Bucklos do a steel chain ring optimised for a 2x or a 3x but it's not a narrow/wide 4mm thick piece of 7000 grade ally. It's steel and thin. My guess is with a dummy front derailleur to keep the chain in place it could well work with a wide range rear cassette. And quietly. But yeah I'll take a 11/40 five speed with a 50 up front any day of the week.

[@dugldoo]

How about using longer chainring bolts and spacers with your the new crank arm to exactly align the chainring with the center of the cassette and likely eliminate the chainring noise completely?

[@tony10speed]

If you look carefully at the chainrings and crank, you'll notice that the inner flanges (opposite the chainring teeth) rest on the inner flanges of the crank arm. Most of your force when cycling is supported by these flanges. The chainring bolts just hold the chainrings in tight on these flanges. If you use washers and longer bolts to move the chainring toward the bike frame, much of your force used when cycling will be on the chainring bolts themselves rather then the flanges they were designed for. The bolt are usually alloy and can deform or break under load. Even if the bolts are steel, they're not really meant to support the forces produced from cycling, especially under load.

[@dugldoo]

@@tony10speed There are spacers designed to do just this and it's done all the time.

[@supremeflagship8965]

Thank God I'm immune to all that marketing BS. I still ride my trusty 3x10 and have more gear range than any 1x drivetrain.

[@markymarknj]

I still run a 3x7 and 3x8 on my MTBs; I have a 3x6 on my one road bike; and I have a 2x7 on my other road bike. I am NOT a fan of 1x drivetrains!

[@Callixto28]

Me too ​@@markymarknj

[@peterweatherby8816]

Tony, thanks for this info. What chain line indicator do you use?

[@tony10speed]

Park CLG-2 (discontinued but may be available on Ebay).

[@KarlosEPM]

Shocking how much I can still learn about bicycles and their maintenance. Love the channel!

[@nazarottto]

Very informative and easy to follow. Thank you (:

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@demri123]

I think most cranks bolt on the outside of the ring, making the ring on the inside. Therefore the latter situation is what most can expect (more smooth, no chain jumping)

[@tony10speed]

I tried another crank with with chainring on the inside of the crank as well as a shorter bottom bracket. Helped only slightly.

[@vinaysoni2032]

Excellent explanation, thank you!

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@salihosmanovic2796]

excellently explained sir.

[@tony10speed]

Thank you. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@lawrencelibby3607]

I converted a couple 2 x and 3 x to 1 x. My 120-spaced 5-speed never once dropped the chain. (When you don't have a front mech you can't shift it back on.) I used a Paul Components gizmo that worked well to keep the chain on another. I enjoy the simplicity especially with a friction shifter. I'm using a 46 x 12-32 9-speed currently. Too hilly for a single around here, for me anyway.

[@tony10speed]

Sounds reasonable. Thanks for sharing, Tony

[@geoffmurad1224]

Great info. Thanks a bunch!. I am currently doing a conversion as well.

[@tony10speed]

Let me know how it works out. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@gainmachines]

Great insight! Thanks a lot for sharing

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@karmalord212]

Hi, I'm building an electric bike with a motor and I'm planning on converting my multispeed freewheel to a single speed one, although I'm not so sure how I make the chainline perfect, as I can't add spacers behind the freewheel as there aren't enough threads. Any Ideas?

[@tony10speed]

Equiping the bike with a chainring that sits on the inside (frame side) of the crank will bring the chainring iwardward. In other cases, using a narrower bottom bracket may be the answer, depending on the thickness of the crank end that holds the crank bolt. There's no clear answer and the video is just a caution that some cases just don't work or make noise in the larger cogs when making the conversion.

[@karmalord212]

@@tony10speed Alright, thanks!

[@dan2304]

A narrower bottom bracket spindle also narrows the stance width.

[@tony10speed]

That's true and that's why bike fitters use Shimano or Speed Play pedals since they have varying spindle length to accommodate wider stance. As a bike fitter, one can also consider spindle washers or spindle extensions rather then the bottom bracket which depends on the bike frame and cassette position.

[@TRNSL8]

I have that same chainring! Gotta install mine.

[@tony10speed]

See the entire video before converting and note the problems that may occur (so you'll be prepared).

[@TRNSL8]

@@tony10speed I saw the issue, and am taking steps to mitigate this. Thanks!

[@tony10speed]

@@TRNSL8 Let me know how it works for you. Regards and safe cycling.

[@hiawithani123]

Nicely explained.

[@tony10speed]

Thank you. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@goldenmath4091]

Good info, it's a compromise Done this loads of times, fundamental problems, start at the extreme, ie 1st gear and work back Narrow/ wide and clutch rear mech will keep your chain on 99% of the time But I have run stronglight std chain wheels for years without issue As an engineer I love the simplicity and weight saving, but it's not for everyone : )

[@tony10speed]

Agree completely. Thanks for your feedback. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@mahmam3128]

Great video. Isn't an internal gear hub a better option than 1X for those looking for a simple system?

[@tony10speed]

Yes, although it may not give you the gearing for difficult climbs. See: www.cyclescheme.co.uk/community/how-to/how-to-understand-hub-gears Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@mahmam3128]

@@tony10speed thank you 👍

[@assi218]

Im not sure if have done so already, but it seems the sound you getting (after the 2nd crank) was from the upper pulley being too close to the cassette.. try adjusting the "B" screw..

[@tony10speed]

Done that. It's the chain line. Might be helped by a shorter bottom bracket (used a 68 x 105 mm and probably be helped by replacing with a 68 x 103 mm). For your info, see our video on "b" screw: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4nRfX2mibt5gJI Was a good thought. Regards, Tony

[@joecool169]

Well explained, thanks!

[@tony10speed]

You're welcome. This is a new setup of chainring, chain and cassette. But there are also wear issues involving the alloy chainring and wear of the chain itself. These are nicely explained in the following forum: www.mtbr.com/threads/narrow-wide-chainring-wear.971662/ Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@tmayberry7559]

So are saying that you'll need to change the cranks to improve chain line

[@tony10speed]

We replace the bottom bracket from a 113 mm to a 107 as well as using a different crank then the one we started with. And the setup still had problems despite a good chain line. So, if you go this route, it may or may not give you the results your looking for. I, myself, still prefer a compact with a front derailleur but that's my own preference. Regards, Tony

[@tmayberry7559]

@@tony10speed Tony I agree and if I were going to a 1 X I would use a 5 bolt chain ring vs 4 due to the larger bcd with no smaller than a 36 tooth up front

[@volition5559]

I think the chainline issue is more true for conversions vs people buying new-er bikes with 1x or even just 2x in mind. Chain lines have been optimized for gravel gearing and sure, the chain line isn't ideal at the tail ends of the cassette, but, how much time are you really spending there anyways? A bad chainline looks bad and is obviously less efficient, but cross chaining is similarly inefficient but hasn't been showing to increase wear much at all and plenty of new-er cyclists do that. The benefit here is multifaceted. On a large scale, it makes more sense for a cheap, entry level bike to be spec-ed 1x because it will decrease complexity and maintenance for someone who is just beginning to get into the world of cycling. Doesn't really make sense for an entry level version of any bike to be a triple. So once the manufacturing rationle catches up, I'd venture to say it would be a positive. There's also the fact that bikes, entry level or not, have been over-geared for quite some time. I've got news for those of you who don't race- you definitely don't need a 50t chainring. You're grinding it away. A decently spec-ed 1x 11 speed group chain (relatively inexpensive now given 12 and 13 speed) has all simplicity, range, and speed most cyclists will ever need. Good video.

[@tony10speed]

Good points. I do agree that most bikes sold to the bicycle enthusiast (non racer) are way over geared. As to whether current 1x bikes have problems due to chain line remain to be seen. Here are two videos form SickBiker that may be of interest to you: 4 BIG PROBLEMS Of 1x10, 1x11, 1x12 Drivetrains. 1 By Drivetrain - THE TRUTH. Part 1. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6iTZKqYfbR7iZI and If you were close to XC race podium riding on 1x12 drivetrain, you'd win it on 2x11. Here's why... kzbin.info/www/bejne/jmLNlYd6hdx5jMU Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@AmanSingh-us7bc]

Hello, Im going to get a hybrid bike soon and it has a 36t chainring on the front and 11-36 cassette at the back. Do you think I'll spinning out on the flats and downhill? What can I upgrade to make this bike more faster without many modifications to the drivetrain? Thanks.

[@tony10speed]

I think you'll be fine on the up hill and flats but may be coasting down the downhills. My mountain bike has similar gearing with a single 34t chainring. Unless there is a "need for speed" downhill, I'd give what you ordered it a try. Not much you can do with a 1x (single chainring). If you go to a larger front chainring, you'll have trouble getting up the hills. A lot depends on the terrain you plan to ride. I like a compact double for my road bikes because I can get the low gears for uphill and fire away downhill. My riding partner uses a 34t chain ring and a 11/34 cassette. She can keep up with me on the uphill and flats but is not concerned about speeding down hill.

[@chadkline4268]

Yes, the range is too small. You need at least 11-48t on the rear, or you won't be able to pedal downhill. But you will be able to climb any hill with a 36t chainring. I think the spread on the AdventX is too small. If they skipped 5t instead of 4t between each cog, they could've made 500% range instead of 400%. 11-56t, instead of 11-48t. I would've preferred wider range with a 44t chainring. That would've made me very happy. I hope MicroShift offers that in the future.

[@danmozy]

Hi great video. I think I might stick with 2x now. But I'm a bit stumped on my research thus far as for STI shifters with MTB derailleurs. What setup is in this video? The XT with what is it - 105 brifters? Do these type of road shifter and deore xt RD pairing usually work without ok? If so, I want to do exactly what your setup is in the video. And ideally push it to the largest cog possible ie 42 without a wolftooth thing. Thank you

[@tony10speed]

The rear derailleur is a Deore XT, 9 speed system. Although Shimano states that the maximum cassette cog should be 34, Shimano is very conservative and we had no problem running a 36 or 38t rear cog. 40t cog was pushing it a bit but the hanger on this particular bike is extra long (otherwise we would have had to use a Wolf Tooth hanger extender). With 9 speed Shimano, mixing and matching road and mtb components often (but not all cases) work. Can't be said for some other manufacturer types. Regards, Tony

[@danmozy]

@@tony10speed thanks Tony! Is it true that they changed all that with the introduction of 10 speed? The mtb and road were no longer compatible pull lengths?

[@danmozy]

And what are the shifters?

[@tony10speed]

Shimano RT-400 short reach 9 speed shifters@@danmozy

[@tony10speed]

10-, 11- and 12-speed Shimano road/gravel and mountain bike components are not inter-compatible with each other. This is because they use different cable pull ratios. For a complete review see: www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/a-complete-guide-to-rear-derailleurs/#:~:text=Shimano%20derailleur%20compatibility%20explained&text=For%20example%2C%20you%20couldn't,configuration%20to%20your%20heart's%20content. @@danmozy

[@stevemurray710]

I watched this video because my chain came off completely as I removed the rear wheel for a flat repair on my SRAM SX 12x1. I wonder if the chain needs to be put on in any specific way because of narrow wide. Yes for the chainring was quickly explaining. Maybe for the jockey wheel too? Cassette may not be narrow wide. Seems like you just can't throw the chain back on any old way. Complex.

[@tony10speed]

The chain (even if it's a narrow/wide) may come off the chainring when you remove the back wheel. You're less likely to see this happen with a Race Face narrow/wide but - when you remove the back wheel, there is so much slack that the chain still may come off. Just replace the chain on the chainring and re-install the wheel when the flat is fixed. Note that the chain fits on the chainring in a specific manner. See: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qojcaGN6i5V3lck If it comes off while riding, you may have to much slack in the chain. Here, the addition of a clutch or chain guide may solve the problem. Hope this answers your question. If not, let me know. Regards, Tony

[@adrianTNT]

1:47 isn't the derailleur too close to the casette cogs in this video ? (the "B screw"). I think mine also makes a sound because of that, I need to check it again.

[@tony10speed]

No, the derailleur pulley wheels are not too close to the large cassette cog. See: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i4nRfX2mibt5gJI

[@SaltEnjoyer007]

I have that prowheel drivetrain, done the conversion from 3x8 to 1x8. What i dont understand is, when I was using big chainring (42t) with the smallest cog of the cassette I didnt had any of that noises but now I got this noises with single chain ring 42t!(I think its because of the teeth of the chainring being bigger and thicker do more noise picking the chain). I only changed the drivetrain and put a new sram chain 114 links, the old one was 112 but since its only 2 links I left it and it doesnt jump any cogs.

[@tony10speed]

Generally, a loud 1x drivetrain is a result of extreme chainline angles. It means short chainstays and large chainrings on some (not all) bicycles are going to make a lot more noise. The single chainring you have is now further in toward the frame then the large chainring on your triple setup. In our own conversion experience, we noted noise in the large chainring and small cassette cog and even more noise in the small chainring and two larger cassette cogs. We also noticed noise from the narrow wide chainring in these combinations of large chainring/small cog and small chainring/large cog. The chain made noise as it was lifting off the narrow wide in the extreme angles. For these reasons and the fact that the difference between cassette cogs is less on a double or compact so I can more easily find a comfortable cadence, I prefer a compact 2 chainring drivetrain. That's not to say that some 1x work very well. I have a Giant 1x mtb 9 speed that is extremely quiet in all gears. As we can see, this is not a simple issue which is the point of the video. Regards, Tony

[@TheSingingCelebrant]

Hi there, Have you done any work on Hand Cycles please? I am trying to get my local Cycle Shop to upgrade my Shark RT to a Fly By Wire system but they are not sure what to do

[@tony10speed]

I don't have the experience with Hand Cycles, but would be interested in how you make out with your local bike store. Regards, Tony

[@radiocontrolled9181]

3x forever on my MTB! I never have and never will consider a conversion from a 3x to a 1x as an 'upgrade'. To my mind it is a downgrade. I love riding in the correct gear and having an aligned chain all the time and I love the much wider choice and range of gears. To each their own. I get much satisfaction from maintaining and tuning my bikes to get them working smooth and perfect. And it is amazing the difference in performance cleanliness makes, especially the drivetrain. Nice video Tony keep up the good work! Regards.

[@tony10speed]

You're one of the few who appreciate having the right gear and a wider choice & range. Unfortunately, there seems to be a trend toward 1x or subcompact chain sets as I've noticed from a recent visit to my local bike store. Shimano is moving to only electronic shifting and e-bikes are all the rage. I agree with you and I think we may be loosing something in this new trend. But, I can't argue with them if it puts more people on bikes and gives them fresh air and exercise. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@radiocontrolled9181]

​@@tony10speed Agreed, as long as more people ride bikes it's all good. I ride my MTB both on unpaved and bumpy roads .... and tarmac. So I need the higher gearing that the front big chainring offers when going faster on smooth roads. I have 22,34,42T up front and 12-28 freehub cassette (upgraded from freewheel) at the back. There are a lot of hills as well in my area so the low gears are essential. Regarding electronic shifting, again, its a no-no for me. Why should I change to electronic when my mechanical shifting works perfectly all the time? As I said, I keep everything fine tuned and well adjusted (not that frequent adjustments are required) so everything works smoothly. Last point: e-bikes. I'm 51 years young 🙂 and only a few kgs overweight. Thankfully my legs are still strong enough for the climbs. I'll buy an e-bike later when I can't do it anymore. For the time being, I'll push hard on those pedals, sweat it out and reach the top of that hill 💪👍 Cheers!

[@Stupidityindex]

This is a conversion which cost me buying a few wrong parts, but I found a single crank arm & bash cover size 104 BCD. I also, have come to a point where one gear is all I need. I got an ebike & found the chainring is made for the speedy with 52T. I am OK with 32T - 36T I get enough speed on the down hill. I must lift my 30 extra pounds, it's going to time consuming. I was used to quick disconnects, now I'm back to nuts and bolts. What to protect the axle threads with? Only a boot? They don't make quick locking nuts & I need to carry a 19mm spanner?

[@tony10speed]

A couple of things to note. If the front chainring is made of alloy, it probably will need to be replaced every 500 mile. The reason for nuts and bolts (largely replaced with through axles) is that it is much stronger then quick release which can bend or break with a heavy bike (such as an ebike or heavy rider). A "thru axle" as opposed to a standard quick release usually requires a hex key for removal and installation but it's definitely worth the effort based on the safety it brings as well as the ability to precisely line up disc brakes between calipers. A standard quick release instead of a thru axle with disc brakes will drive you to drink. Good luck and safe cycling, Tony

[@abemiya1]

Thanks for the info.. Great👍👌😊

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@jameslefleur1970]

Also note , that 104 BCD cranksets are cheap and you can test different chainring sizes since they are also cheap, or simply have options for different ride types. I started converting my Shimano 105 crankset (110BCD) to 1X but the chainrings were too expensive.

[@tony10speed]

Unfortunately the narrow wide chainrings wear quickly and many need replacement after only 500 miles. The point of the video, however, is to test out the 1x before you buy and to note that some 1x conversions can be quite noisy. I, myself, am not advocating 1x although some find it simple to operate and don't mind giving up a wider gear selection that you get with a double, compact or triple.

[@jameslefleur1970]

@@tony10speed I have noticed that, but I'm not sure that I hate 1X more than dealing with the front derailleur :-)

[@jameslefleur1970]

Never dropped a chain in 2+ years with 1x. I went back to 2x because I can't hold in group rides and it actually allowed me to ride faster as I wanted, but in one month I have dropped the chain at least 7 times... and twice I couldn't make it shift from small to big at all. Brand new SRAM Rival 11 speed. Works well on the stand but lots of issues on the road. So it has disadvantages as you mentioned, but I feel more confident on the road with 1x mechanically speaking that is. It is hard to have it all :-)

[@tony10speed]

@@jameslefleur1970 The front derailleur limiting screw adjustments can be challenging. I use an Edge Chain Catcher on one of my bike to keep the chain from coming off to the inside. I've been pretty successful on adjusting the front derailleur to keep it from coming off to the outside. The height of the outer plate of the front derailleur must clear the large chainring by only 3-4mm, the cage must be aligned straight with the frame and the outer limiting screw carefully adjusted (I have a few videos on this if you are ever interested). Thanks for your comment and insight. Safe cycling, Tony

[@jameslefleur1970]

@@tony10speed thank you sir

[@RK-kn1ud]

I think my Fifty-fifty NW ring has an offset machined into it so it would sit where your center ring would have been in a 3x setup.

[@tony10speed]

I checked the chain line of the bike in the video after converting it to a 1x. You can do that with a Park Chain Line Tool as I did, or mathematically calculate it. The chain line was dead on (the chain ring up front matched up with the center of the cassette), so I don't think that was a problem. The point of the video is that some conversions (and some new bikes) will be noisy in the smallest or largest cassette cog and other bike (such as my Giant 1x mountain bike) are quiet in all cogs. So if you're buy a 1x new bike, give it a try before you lay the money down. If you're converting a 2x or triple to 1x, just be aware that it may or may not be noisy. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@RK-kn1ud]

@@tony10speed I will definitely be on the lookout when my conversion is finished...thanks for bringing up the possible issue.

[@tony10speed]

@@RK-kn1ud Let me know how you make out. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@RK-kn1ud]

@@tony10speed I just installed microSHIFT Advent on my (mountain) bike and took it for a ride. Using the 11-46T cassette and a fifty-fifty 30T ring (with a machined 2mm offset) on my original 3x Shimano crank arm, I have zero drivetrain issues. I don't have a tool to measure chainline, but I seem to have a very equal gap between the chain and the rear cogs when in the 4th speed of the cassette with no noise in either direction. That said, I know there are some people who have resolved a similar issue with a 1x10 setup simply by using an 11 speed chain. Honestly, I'm pretty handy and I'd probably use some combination of washers, shims (cut from soda cans), and/bolts if it came down to it. I don't usually have an extra set of crank arms laying around! Thanks again for making others aware of possible issues though!

[@tony10speed]

@@RK-kn1ud Glad things worked out. Safe cycling and have fun, Tony

[@aapa3732]

Just wondering the performance of Campagnolo Ekar groupset which has 9-42 13 speed cassette with a 1x 38 or up to 42 chainring. What did campy do to reduce if not eliminate those issues?

[@tony10speed]

This I unfortunately can't answer. Some 1x systems work fine while many fail as pointed out in our video and the link at the end to Sickbiker.

[@efekara4831]

Do many of the new 1x road or cyclecross bikes have these problems?

[@tony10speed]

Yes and we refer you to Sickbiker at the end of our video for more information.

[@fireteammichael1777]

Did you change out the BB to the narrower one 1st, before moving chaing ring to back side of crank?

[@tony10speed]

Yes. But I wonder if even a shorter bottom bracket would help or some 1.2-2.0 mm chainring spacers to move the chainring more toward the frame would help. Still working on it. Thanks for asking, Tony

[@fireteammichael1777]

@@tony10speed no thank YOU! I'm currently doing same thing basically, just swapping my 3x 7 to 1x, trying to keep rear components same if possible. I initially didn't realize could install the chain ring on either side of the new crank I ordered along with it. So with chain ring installed on outside, I had quite the chain line closer to smallest cassette gear. Chain would fall off easy in larger cogs.. After moving ring to inner side of crank, it did improve situation, but will now drop couple gears in rear if I pedal backwards.. sometimes still fall off chain ring when pedal forward in largest cassette gear.. Granted I may need to shorten chain just a touch, but I'm wondering if I put a narrower BB in, which I know will help the larger gears in cassette, but I worry if might make problem occur on the smaller gears of the cassette.. or is this not so much of a concern? Granted, I've got limiters set for most part, but likely still need to fine tune along with cable tension.

[@tony10speed]

@@fireteammichael1777 They do make bicycle chain guards for the chainring (to keep it from coming off) such as BESNIN Chain Guide or CYSKY MTB Chain Guide Direct Mount Chainring Guard. I would also check the specs on your rear derailleur (maximum cog it can handle). Sometimes (not always), a "rear derailleur hanger extension" (check Amazon.com) will do the job. In other cases, after conversion, I can't seem to get the drivetrain to handle a larger rear cassette cog. I have no easy solutions.

[@Eman-hx1qw]

Hi tony, does your daughter have enough miles on this dekas brand to make a call on durability? $12 vs $45+ for the brand name raceface, wolftooth etc.

[@tony10speed]

Not enough miles yet. But the chainring probably won't last as long as some of the brand names. I'd point out that many single chainring such as the one in the video are often alloy which will wear more quickly then steel - requiring replacement every 500 miles or so.

[@herculesmclovin]

Are you using a cassette designed for a 1x system?

[@tony10speed]

This is a 9 speed drivetrain which requires a 9 speed cassette. The cassette is a SRAM that is compatible with the range of the rear derailleur capacity. With a change in the rear derailleur, one could accommodate a larger range cassette, but that is not the point of the video. Some 1x systems do require specific cassette and derailleur combination, but not here. The video is more about chain line and noise. Here's some nice reviews of 1x systems: www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/1x-drivetrains/ and www.bikeradar.com/features/how-to-convert-your-bike-to-a-1x-drivetrain/ Regards, Tony

[@JanBanJoovi-ol1qv]

Only issue i have with front derailleurs is that it’s not so easy to clean the area as the derailleur is getting in the way when trying to reach that area.

[@tony10speed]

True. But on the other hand, having 2 chainrings up front gives one a greater choice of gears. Thanks for you comment. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@nicktydeman1]

Thanks !

[@tony10speed]

You're Welcome. Also visit our KZbin home site at: kzbin.info Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@hermogarcia465]

Hi Tony, Im running a 1x9 system planning to change it from 36t chain ring to 34t Do i need to cut my chain?

[@tony10speed]

Probably not but after you switch to the smaller chainring, it's easy to check. If in the small cassette cog, the chain running below the derailleur comes in contact with the guide pulley wheel and upper part of the chain, you will need to remove one link (one link is comprised of both the inner and outer plate - looks like 2 pieces but is consider one link). If not, you're all set. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@hermogarcia465]

Thank you Tony, appreciate the reply.

[@caganylmazhd516]

Do you always need to change the bottom bracket?

[@tony10speed]

If you're switching from a Triple to 1x, the answer is yes. If your BB is made for a double, it may work fine as in my case.

[@pjmd8304]

Fix the charing inside the crank will reduce the incline angle.

[@tony10speed]

Not a bad item but for one problem. The outside of the spider arms of the crank have support for the chainring - so not all the weight is taken by the chainring bolts when pedaling. Mounted on the inside would put much pressure on the bolts leading to breakage and failure. If one is using a double crankset and only using the inner chainring, that may be a possibility. Another way to change the chain line would be to try a narrower bottom bracket - have not tried that yet.

[@muhammedkurtoglu9411]

Why would someone want just a single chainring when you get so many more gear choices with a double or triple?

[@HGZie]

Simplicity 90% of the gear range of 2x/3x on the front with less of the hassle Weight Looks

[@tony10speed]

Yes, simplicity and geared more for trails where you don't need all the gear choices.

[@DinnerForkTongue]

Because there is a truckload of redundancy. I have a 3x7 drivetrain and while it's sold as "21 speeds", effectively it only has 9.

[@truthseeker8483]

Less weight, simple to operate....no grating noises from front deraileur...plenty of gears for hills and along the flat.

[@radiocontrolled9181]

Because the bike industry needed something new to sell more bikes and parts and the marketing people convinced them that a 1x is as good and even better (😂🤦) than a 3x and they swallowed it. 😂😂. Someone here wrote that a 3x7 (21 speeds) has actually 9 working speeds. Big lie, I have a 3x7 and I regularly make use of at least 15 speeds and also use another additional 3 occasionally. Of course the drivetrain has to be well adjusted and lubed to work as it should, something which mine is.

[@Pretender_Gamer]

I have a problem with my 1x 8 speed... I got 2nd hand e-bike and decided to change in official workshop all new drive train and brakes. And problems started.. I have a new cassette, chain, Derailleur, crankset and etc. My problem now is that on 7th gear, I can start to feel friction, and on 8th gear, my chain is dropping off from crank... even though the workshop said bike, it's like new, but when I started to ride, it happened again.. and I was told that they did all that they could do... so I still have this issue....

[@tony10speed]

Please correct me if I'm wrong but your 8th gear would be your smallest cassette cog? Is your e-bike a single up front chainring? I would wonder if the chain line is at an extreme angle when in the 7th and especially the 8th gear. Can the shop check the chain angle? Did they replace the components with the exact same type that were on the bike. They could have forgot a spacer on the freehub or used a crank that is offset toward the frame. Did they replace the bottom bracket with one that's too narrow? One problem is that the bicycle may work find when up on a stand but give problems when out on the road where there's more stress on the drivetrain. Take a look at this video for a nice summary of this problem: www.roadbikerider.com/7-basic-chain-drop-solutions-1x-drivetrains/ I would take it back to the shop and complain. They worked on it and should stand behind their work. My guess is the replacement crank or chain ring is the problem throwing off the chainline. Let me know how you make out. Regards, Tony

[@snowfan9785]

I want to ask about the bottom bracket can i use 110 mm or it must 107 mm

[@snowfan9785]

I hope you answer my question

[@tony10speed]

A 110 mm BB worked for me but, because of the chainline, made moderate noise in the 2 largest cogs. The chainline was improved with the 107 mm decreasing the noise when in the large cogs. If you already have a 110 BB, give it a try and see how it sounds. I, myself, prefer using a compact double with a front derailleur which gives me many more gear options then a 1x, but that's just a personal preference. Regards and safe cycing, Tony

[@blissbouwerij4033]

why didnt you just mount the chainring on the back of the first crank?

[@tony10speed]

The cranks are made to mount outside or inside. The mounting allows for the best stability of the chainring. Mounting in reverse is not recommended (and I'd really have to show you why - good subjest for another video). Thanks for the comment.

[@bikdav]

I ran into that. That version of Deore rear derailleur doesn’t like anything above about 32 teeth. A newer rear derailleur capable of 36 teeth or larger eliminated the whole noise and “rough feeling” issue.

[@tony10speed]

What speed are you running (9, 10 or 11 speed) and what is the make and model of the derailleur? Both the viewers and I would love to know. Thanks in advance, Tony

[@bikdav]

@@tony10speed My setup is 9 speed. My DEORE derailleur is one of the slightly later black ones. It’s not a current one, but mine works fine with 34. Looking at your situation, I think that the DEORE RD-M6000 rear derailleur or one of the other current DEORES (or even the ALIVIO or ACERA rear derailleurs) in Shimano’s current line up could work better. Most of them can climb as high as 36 teeth or more.

[@tony10speed]

@@bikdav I have used a similar setup with a Deore XT on some 9 speed bicycles. The 36T cog works on some, but with others, the derailleur hanger is not long enough for adjustment of the b-screw. On these later, I've added a small nut to the end of the b-screw to move it back further behind the derailleur hanger. In another, I used a derailleur hanger extension that worked well. Thanks for your input and safe cycling, Tony

[@bikdav]

@@tony10speedThat’s true. I forgot about the derailleur hanger extension. That might solve the the problem.

[@TivonSanders]

Is that cassette an HG400?

[@tony10speed]

The cassette is a new SRAM PG-970 9-Speed cassette and a good quality SRAM chain. However, replacing with a Shimano Hyperglide cassette did not make a difference. When checked, the chain did not show any significant wear. Obviously, I don't have all the answers yet. Could try chainring bolt spacers to alter the chain line or different chain/cassette or different single narrow wide chainring, but, in the end, I will reinstall the compact chainrings which worked well. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@nighttime9539]

How is that cheap Deckas narrow-wide chainring? I was checking them online (along with similarly priced Snail and Bucklos), but it looked kinda dodgy so I went with more expensive Sunrace. Anyone got any feedback on these cheaply priced narrow-widers? Thanks.

[@tony10speed]

Did you run into any noise problems as described in the video?

[@nighttime9539]

​@@tony10speed with my sunrace chainring? it's not really noisy, but the chain looks quite bent when switched to the largest cog (lowest gear). I think this is also caused by my rear derailleur hanger not being completely straight. Otherwise the gears are switching fine and the chain does not jump gears when spinning backwards. Which I'm pride about because it was my first time swapping and adjusting the rear derailleur :) I only took it for a short test ride today and it feels quite good. Yet to be tested on trails though.

[@tony10speed]

@@nighttime9539May look bent, not due to the hanger but just the extreme chain line when in the largest cog (at least that's what I've noticed). Let us know how it all works after you've test ed it out. Regards, Tony

[@nighttime9539]

@@tony10speed yeah I're read that it will be bending because of the gear position in relation to a chainring which is one of the general problems of a single chainring setup. But I feel like my derailleur hanger being a bit twisted provides some contribution (not a very big one) to this effect. By the way, do you know if installing the chain guide may help with the chain bending? I'm not really concerned about my chain falling off because narrow-wide teeth plus a clutched derailleur do provide enough stability for the chain. But does the chain guide help in making the chain shape more smooth?

[@tony10speed]

@@nighttime9539 Chain guides keep the chain from coming off the chainring and prevent "chain slap." But I'm not aware that they'll improve the chain line.

[@hsg-hasansaltas7321]

Are you more likely to drop your chain with a 1x?

[@tony10speed]

The narrow wide front chain ring is suppose to prevent chain drop. But not always, especially on rough terain. So I also use a chain guide similar to the this: www.amazon.com/Rehomy-31-8-35mm-Aluminium-Catcher-Accessory/dp/B0831G9TZZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1WCO4L0K4I9YF&dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+chain+catcher&qid=1628195392&sprefix=bicycle+chain+cat%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=ACWYAGDSSGK43&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMjhQRlVPR003OFhHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzIwMjM0MlhNNElGM1RTV01KVyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDE0MzE0MjkwVFRHSkQ2WFU5QyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= Regards, Tony

[@edymarkonthego4096]

I suspected that your chain length is too short. Add more links to reduce rd tension.

[@tony10speed]

We checked the chain length which was fine. See our video on chain length: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aH7FmYacfb-eeas Good thougth and thanks for your comment. Regards, Tony

[@bikeman1x11]

using a 68x 10-3 bottom bracket might hrlp too

[@tony10speed]

Yes, but then I get noise when in the small rear cog as the chain line is shifted inward. Some bikes work well with 1x such as my Giant mtb, but others don't. The point of the video is just to check before you buy or realize conversion to 1x will work in some cases but not others. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@davidcawthorne7115]

Why not just ride all the time on the 3x on the chain ring nearest in size to the 38 tooth 1x chain ring. Problem solved. Plus you have additionally gears once you learn how to change gear. 😊❤

[@tony10speed]

That would certainly work. The idea of a 1x is that you can put a much larger cog on the back. Here, I went from a 11/34 to an 11/40 cog in the back and a small chain ring of 34 on my double to a 32 1x in the front. This allows a cyclist to climb any steep gradient with the lowest gears being 32 in the front and 40 in the back (as opposed to a 34 - 34).

[@QuietMikeW]

I have a 7 speed freewheel 14-28t i replaced the freewheel with another 7 speed a 11-28t, with the original freewheel, 1st gear (28t), i could spin the pedals backwards with this new freewheel, same 1st gear, backpedal falls onto 2nd gear, i don't understand why this one does this and the original didn't, I figured that the chain-line was at the extreme and pulling the chain to a more straight position, (though it didn't do that before) so i installed a 3mm spacer between the freewheel and the hub - in an attempt to move the freewheel further outside, to help with the chain-line when in first gear. it has helped but only a little, perhaps somehow offsetting the chainring?

[@tony10speed]

1. General Remark: When you're pedaling forward, the top half of the chain is pulled tight by the tension from your pedaling, and the lower half is held in tension by the derailleur. The derailleur is also very close to the rear sprockets so it can guide the nicely-tensioned chain onto the proper gear. When you pedal backwards, you pull on the bottom of the chain which pulls the derailleur forward. That creates chain slack. Some of that chain slack shows up on the top half of the chain as the chain links get dumped off the front chainring into space on the way backwards. If you watch the chain closely when you pedal backwards, you can actually see the top of the chain go slack and flop around a bit. So when you're pedaling backwards there's nothing on the top side to maintain tension. A slack chain will flop around and there's nothing on the top side to guide where the chain lands on the rear gears. So the loose flopping chain is free to go where it wants. 2. Why should this occur with a new freewheel when the old one worked fine? The lubricant in the new freewheel may be thicker and more sticky, not allowing it to rotate backward with ease. This will create more slack in the chain as you back pedal, leading to the problem above (see #1). Here is a more extensive review of this problem: brainybiker.com/slack-chain-when-pedaling-backward-symptoms-and-solutions/#:~:text=If%20your%20chain%20gets%20slack,the%20freewheel%20or%20the%20freehub. Spacers are not the issue. Try removing the freewheel and spray the inner surface with WD-40 as in the article. See if this loosens the grease enough to allow back pedaling. I, myself, avoid back pedaling, but that's just my preference. (P.S. The smallest cog is called #1 and, with a 7 speed freewheel, the largest is called #7) Let me know how you make out. We can all learn by your experience. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@raplika1707]

Do you need any special tools?

[@tony10speed]

Yes, a number of special tools as pointed out in the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h2TSdIegf75jZtE&ab_channel=TonyMarchand

[@দেশি_Soumalainen]

I'm having the exact problem in my case......

[@tony10speed]

What we've outlined is a problem with some 1x drivetrains (even when new). I have no ready solution. On my mountain bike the 1x works and sounds perfect, but not on the 1x road bike conversion. If your bike is new, take it back to the dealer and see if he has some ideas about changing the "chain line" to decrease noise. Regards, Tony

[@Strange_Brew]

Your chainline is way too far out. I did the same thing on my road bike and I used a 2x Fsa Sl carbon crankset with a 50 tooth narrow wide (same one as yours) on the inside mount for the chainring where the small chainring would go. The chainline is perfect 👍. I’m running an 11 speed cassette and the chainline is exactly on the middle sprocket of the rear cassette. I don’t like square taper cranks . There are many solid axel ones out there cheap. You’d have to change the bottom bracket though. I have no problem shifting all the way low and high gears. I’m using a Sram Gx mtb derailleur. I like 1x systems. It is much quieter.

[@tony10speed]

Measurement of the chainline showed it to be between the 4th and 5th cog of the 9 speed cassette. The idea of the video is that in some cases (such as your own), things run quiet and perform well - but in others they do not (even on new 1x bikes). Therefore, one needs to be prepared. It depends on the bike and components. In some cases but not all, a different length bottom bracket may solve the problem. Thanks for your comment. Tony

[@makantahi3731]

it still is not good chain line , you should use narrower bb, or to put some spacers between crank and chain gear and chain line should be on cassette gear that is mostly used(4-5)

[@tony10speed]

If you continue watching the video, that's exactly what we did: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnOWe6WMh86Hnrs Despite correcting the chain line, it did not completely solve the noise problem on this bike. The video is just a heads up that you may experience noise on some bicycles (even new bikes - even after changing the bottom bracket or adding spacers) to correct the chain line while on others bike, you maybe fine.

[@LORDOFSAMET3]

My mountain bike works fine with just one chainring

[@tony10speed]

My Giant mountain bike does also. It greatly depends on the bike and, before buying, check out the items mentioned in the video.

[@qbarnes1893]

Omg...doesn’t take much to understand...been in engineering all my life and fail to understand the messed up world that the cycling manufacturers have created...I’ve reached a decision that it’s due to financial gain, not engineering, yes there’s some great products out there but many just confuse the issues concerned, thousands can be spent on ‘upgrades’ yet no actual real gain is apparent, just kudos for purchasing the latest tech on the market... All those years that disc brakes were banged on about....the Tour de France competition has only just started to use them, just one example in a very niche, rich and messed up world

[@tony10speed]

Well said. Unfortunately not a lot we can do about it except stick to some old basic tech. One of the reasons I love my 1990s titanium Litespeed Classic with rim brakes. Regards and be safe, Tony

[@grumpycyclist3319]

It has always appealed to me simply for the sake of easier cleaning...

[@tony10speed]

It is easier to clean and maintain. My point here is to check for noise (friction and loss watts) and pedal backward to make sure the chain does drop to a higher gear. If these are OK and you don't mind less gear choices (at least in some cases), then the 1x is for you. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@ianmangham4570]

You should have put the single ring behind the spider

[@tony10speed]

I did and it wasn't enough to stop the noise.

[@ianmangham4570]

@@tony10speed 👍

[@ianmangham4570]

@@tony10speed Have you tried changing the chain, a 6/7/8 has a thicker chain than a 9 and up ?

[@tony10speed]

@@ianmangham4570 No I haven't. A 6/7/8 speed chain is just slightly wider (same inner width) then a 9 speed chain. Not sure it will shift well with a 9 speed cassette, but again, haven't tried it yet. Thanks for the comment, Tony

[@ianmangham4570]

@@tony10speed No it won't shift with a 9 cassette, not properly anyhow 🤣 ,next time I'll watch the entire video 🤣🤡🙏👍

[@thomashammack7743]

Maybe he used the wrong chainring. Why would crosschain be an issue with a 1x as opposed to using the inner chainring on a 2x setup? I recently upgrade my 7spd to a 10spd with 10spd chain and chainrings no issues

[@tony10speed]

The video is just a cautionary tale. Some 1x, such as my Giant mtb, work great. And some upgrades to a 1x are no problem. The video is just to worn that some new 1x and some upgrades will be noisy in the largest or smallest cogs. If you are buying a new 1x, be sure to check it out on the road in all gears before buying. If upgrading, it may work fine but in some cases one must consider installing a shorter bottom bracket or other solutions if noise occurs. P.S.: The noise in the drivetrain in the video was coming from the cassette in the 2 largest cogs. We change out the bottom bracket for a slightly shorter one which helped some. We also measured the chain line, which was perfect.

[@lv2keepfit493]

single sucks, old school or not triple makes all the sense in the world mechanically and usefulness. This is just manufacturing cheeping out and charging you an arm and leg.

[@tony10speed]

I, myself, ride a compact double for my road and gravel bike. However, there are others who prefer the simplicity of a single chain ring.

[@big_bird8597]

this seems like more that your setup was incorrect chainline should be center or rear cassette

[@tony10speed]

We checked the chainline and it was in the center of the cassette. We decided, anyway, to move the chainline in about 2 mm from a 107 to a 105 mm BB but the noise was still present. You had a good idea but we suspected the same thing. Thanks for the comment, Tony

[@tonysessions1403]

I know you can't be a shaved tail.3rd ACR for me.

[@tony10speed]

Ist Cav, Medevac assigned to Darnel Army Hospital ER, Fort Hood, during Vietnam. We had over 100,000 soldiers & dependents and was the largest US base at that time.

[@docmccoy9813]

1by drivetrains is the biggest scam in bike industry in a long time. Let's them believe is cool, simple, beautiful, and then try to solve ALL the problems that it creates, and by the way, let's make them buy more expensive (and huge) cassettes and narrower chains

[@tony10speed]

You're not alone in your feelings about 1x. However, for some people who do a relatively flat commute or do only rails to trails, 1x may suit them. Park Tools had an interesting comparison: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJDYgqmrqMeHgK8 But I, myself, agree that a double chainring gives me the best options with smooth shifting. Regards and safe cycling, Tony

[@neosandi6]

I wish I soo this video before buying this pish of SXXXX transmition of bicycle, this is engeniring backoword an i hate it on my bcycle , it ensolt my inteligence , so naw i need to find way to make it right with minimum expenses. My sugestion to all is this is gimk , it not shitt good , is distroing transmition of energy and is vasting your money , if you like your mone old sistem is good ... 100 000 mile on old bcycle 4 chain replaced , with this new mybe 30-40 000 mile , is marketing gimik , ekonomy corporation people , not enginers on work.... i hate it ... and myself couse I buy this bs. (trek marlin 7)

[@punktkomma9489]

bruh

[@truthseeker8483]

@@punktkomma9489 😁😁😁😁

[@truthseeker8483]

it ensolt my inteligence 😁😁😁😁😁😁😁

[@johnvine5731]

Google Translate fails on this one 😄

[@lifebehindtheselens]

Well I noticed right off the bat probably one reason you have chain alignment problems is because that sprocket is supposed to be on the inside face of where it belts to the crank

[@tony10speed]

You didn't watch enough of the video. See: 3:14 minutes where we attach the chainring to the inside of the face: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnOWe6WMh86Hnrs Regards, Tony