2.5CWT/ 125kg BROOKS ANVIL RESTORATION

2.5CWT/ 125kg Brooks anvil restoration

[@gaylecoombs5510]

I would be more than happy to put that back to use. Good job sir that was impressive. I didn’t even know that could be done to an anvil.

[@threeriversforge1997]

Great to find your channel. Not many folks are documenting the Gunther Method of Anvil Repair so it's good to see! My Fisher anvil with it's cast iron base... I dread trying to build up its chipped edges!

[@anvilrepairs]

Thanks so much for the support, yea cast iron is a different game but not impossible, I watched a guy last night welding a cast iron anvil and it seemed to be successful, he also just used MiG wire and hard faced over everything, I’ll see if I can find the link

[@anvilrepairs]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZq4kqttnNFjj6c.

[@bigoldgrizzly]

I like the deeper heel on the Brooks design and never really understood why most makers seem to skimp in this, presumably just for a kilo or two of extra steel ps day after I posted the above, I bought this ones little brother ... 1 1/4cwt in perfect condition, and cheap too ! came from a school and had almost no use - Delighted !

[@anvilrepairs]

I also enjoy the brook’s design, I loved working on my brooks when I had it, they really are great anvils. I’ve also wondered why some anvil makers went so thin on the heels, I haven’t yet found a sufficient answer. Im thrilled to hear about your 1 1/4cwt brooks, I love it when one finds them in close to perfect condition, a lot of them were so badly abused.

[@bigoldgrizzly]

@@anvilrepairs Nice that these are still being made in the same moulds and are available new to those with deep pockets. They are made by Vaughans who took over Brooks business many years ago. Your 2 1/2 cwt would be £ 1200...or 28200 Rand [with tax, but not incl shipping]. even the little 1 1/4 cwt I bought would cost £900. ..... Just one more reason to repair old anvils :

[@dutchcuda]

@@anvilrepairs My current "daily beater" is a 178kg 1916 German S&H which has a pretty thin heel. It`s less than half compared to this Brooks. Although I can see the strength wise advantage , I really like the thin heel. I`ve had good use for it on several occasions especially when straightening narrow U shapes. I also wonder if it really makes a difference in strenght. When a heel breaks away from the base, it`s almost always on the weld ( not when cast obviously...) and the welding surface imo is about the same size on a thin heel anvil...

[@andrewlovegrove6442]

Excellent job Kevin, well done! I am also in Cape Town and have recently bought a Brooks 1 1/4 CWT anvil, fortunately it did not require significant repair, but could do with some touching up in places, so thanks very much for the detailed tutorial 👍

[@anvilrepairs]

Awesome, always nice meeting people in SA interested in the same thing. Definitely follow the channel to see more cool stuff! I have another anvil and vice coming in soon, both in great shape which is an unusual buy for me!!

[@shopdoc]

Great job! Thank you for sharing it with us.

[@rpower1401]

Great video. I have a 2 3/4 Brooks I just purchased this past weekend. While I don't think I'll be doing this level of repair as my edges are damaged but not so bad I can't live with it. Still, it's good to know how to do it and I'll probably use a few of these techniques cleaning it up. Thanks.

[@anvilrepairs]

Thanks so much, I’m really glad my video helped you, yes fixing these cast steel anvils is really a breeze, they weld easy, the steel isn’t dirty, where you get all sorts of impurities coming up when welding like the wrought iron ones. I’ll share the video of my first anvil restoration I did on my other channel, it was also a brooks, and I only did edges, but I did all the building with hard facing which was incorrect so I did over time get a few cracks, but it served me well for over two years.

[@anvilrepairs]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2mng4ake9qcbZosi=RCBkWSc3o1jz3tkD

[@rpower1401]

@@anvilrepairs I'll use mine as is with just light rounding for now. If I have safety issues with shards or further damage due to my relatively light use I'll use your work as a guide for a proper fix. Thanks again

[@9Antonian]

I enjoy your videos please if you could, mention your voltage and wire feed rate of your MiG welder as well as the type of wire that you are using. If possible can you make a video on tempering an anvil, thanks!

[@joehillebrand1035]

This please!!

[@anvilrepairs]

Hi, yes sure, my MiG is a fairly simple single phase machine that doesn’t tell you what the wire speed is, but I’ll do some research on how to work out wire speed. I weld with 0.8mm mild steel wire, then the last two passes are hard facing. Regarding tempering, I don’t temper them because the hard face rod is hard, all I do is slow cool the whole anvil in dry sand after I’m finished welding, that allows the whole anvil to reach the same temperature and slow cool all at the same rate, it prevents hairline cracks.

[@9Antonian]

I appreciate your reply, thanks! Keep doing what your doing, great videos.

[@AsitShouldBe]

Nice videos bro, you are really inspiring for me while doing my restoration 👍👍😉 i'm restoring an anvil, is going good but the rebound is not fine, i'm thinking about adding a nice steel top layer of 2 cm, what do you think? Bye

[@anvilrepairs]

Thanks so much, I’m glad I’m making a difference. Whatever you do, don’t weld a piece of steel on top of the anvil, because of the air gap between the top of the anvil and the steel plate you’ll have close to no rebound. The first thing you need to do is identify if it’s a forged or cast anvil. If it’s a forged anvil there’s a big possibility you have face plate delimitation, to fix that you must cut the separated material off, grind until you can no longer see any cracks, preheat, build up with mild, finish off the last two passes with hard facing. Don’t build to thick with hard facing, no more than two passes otherwise it cracks. After you’ve finished welding, cover the whole anvil with dry sand so can slow cool it. If it’s a cast anvil you can just grind away until any cracks are gone and repeat the above process. Watch my latest video of the heel replacement to see how I confront the problems involved with repairing a badly damaged anvil

[@davesmith9325]

Very interesting! I will have to read up about hard facing, that's new for me

[@anvilrepairs]

Very easy, much less work and less risk than quenching and anvil once restored

[@HWPcville]

You do excellent work. I'm curious about your business model. Do people bring their anvil for restoration or do you purchase anvils that are in need of restoration, restore them then offer them for sale? Either way thanks for posting.

[@anvilrepairs]

Thanks for the compliment. So far I haven’t done restorations on other peoples anvils because I can’t charge them what it costs me to restore an anvil. So far I’ve just been buying damaged anvils, restoring them, then putting them up for sale on Facebook marketplace. I don’t make money from doing this but it’s a labor of love, normally when I sell them once restored I only get back my material costs.

[@JollyJay1.0]

@@anvilrepairs please can I get into contact with you, could you reply with your email address?

[@anvilrepairs]

082 423 1276

[@petermarsh4993]

Hey Mate, nice repair. Never used hard facing but it looks easy to apply. I was about to give you a lecture on OHNS safe lifting of heavy objects when you showed the gantry crane outside. All you need is a lower level gantry crane to work inside your shop and you’re set. What was in the yellow bath and were the electrodes galvanised mesh? By the way CWT doesn’t stand for centre weight, it stands for Hundred Weight {Roman C=Hundred} Cheers.

[@anvilrepairs]

Thanks so much for the comment. Yes these hard facing rods are very easy to apply, especially with good preheat. Have a look at this video, I explain what’s involved in the electrolysis dip.: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eYfChJasnKiJrK8. Thanks so much, I’m glad to have learned something😃👍🏼

[@slyfox7429]

Nice repair and liked the video. I have a question... Why didn't you do the electrolisis first before you started grinding and welding. Seems like the welding would be cleaner without the rust.

[@anvilrepairs]

Thanks so much, I simply do it to minimize flash rust, the rust converter only does so much and these restorations are generally done over a couple of weeks, so if I electrolysis before grinding and welding by the time I’m finished with the restoration the anvil would have developed a fair amount of rust and obviously I can’t treat the anvil with rust converter and BLO before pre heat because it would just burn it all off. I always clean my welding area very well and I clean a larger area around where I’m welding so my welds stay clean. I also like to dip afterwards because then a can clean, rust convert and BLO it all at once. I don’t think there’s anything stopping one from electrolysis dipping before welding but I just prefer doing it this way.

[@ershvv7567]

Что бы лицо наковальни было твердое, насыпьте толчёного, древесного угля на наковальню, и под слоем угля производите наплавку электродом! Произойдёт науглероживании верхнего слоя металла!!!

[@fixitrightolson2110]

Great job I enjoy watching your work. Where are you at in the world?

[@anvilrepairs]

Thanks so much for the support, I’m in South Africa

[@gwilymdawson-stanley7355]

Beautiful job

[@anvilrepairs]

Thank you so much

[@alessandrolok5450]

Nice repair! I do have a question tho, how do you make sure the hardness of the original face of the anvil doesn't go soft when you preheat and weld on it?

[@anvilrepairs]

Sorry, I only saw you comment now, you have to make sure you don’t get the anvil too hot, keep monitoring the temperature and make sure if it is getting too hot to take a break until it cools down slightly, and the same for if it’s getting too cold, if your temperature gets too low then re preheat and carry on welding💪🏼

[@alessandrolok5450]

@Anvil Repairs but wouldn't it just get too hot right next to the weld? Cuz for melting metal you wil need at least about 1500 degrees Celsius. So wouldn't it just get soft right next to the weld? Or am I missing something, if so please let me know :)

[@anvilrepairs]

@@alessandrolok5450 that’s a really good question and i honestly don’t know the answer to it, I merely follow the Gunter method of anvil repair, your question would need to be answered by a coded welder, let’s hope someone who sees this question is able to answer. Regards Kyle

[@SubjectiveFunny]

If you were 10 years older you would have destroyed your back putting that anvil on the floor. Be smart boet!

[@neilgillmore]

Great job!

[@armandhammer9617]

3:50 needs a little salt 🧂

[@garthcombrinck7906]

Do you have any anvils for sale and how much do they go for

[@anvilrepairs]

Yes all the anvils I restore I re sell, are you in South Africa? I sell my restored anvils between R80 and R110 per KG depending on size

[@garthcombrinck7906]

@Anvil Repairs yes im in Middleburg mp do you have Facebook

[@anvilrepairs]

@@garthcombrinck7906 I do, you can WhatsApp me as well 0824231276

[@anvilrepairs]

Let me know if you’re interested in the anvil in my latest video

[@azarellediaz4892]

What rod do you use for hard facing?

[@anvilrepairs]

Hi I use Gemini H600R hard facing rods👍🏼

[@Joe___R]

I would have just milled off the entire face and replaced it with a piece of good steel. Hard surfacing rods are fine, but it is a lot more work for s worse result.

[@anvilrepairs]

Unfortunately welding on a plate to the top of an anvil is the worst repair possible. The reason why is because there is an air gap between the anvil and the plate which creates the same effect as a forged anvil with a delaminated face plate. They look good but are awful to work on with bad rebound. On the other hand milling the face would be first prize but only once the repair is done correctly. I’ll do a video about that type of repair soon

[@bigoldgrizzly]

@@anvilrepairs perhaps with face plate 6 inches thick ;

[@paulrward]

This is a crappy video. You keep talking about what needs to be done, and what you are going to do, and what you did, BUT YOU NEVER SHOWED THE ACTUAL WORK BEING DONE !!!! Try again !

[@anvilrepairs]

Sorry you feel that way Paul, it seems the other 8000 people who watched the video quite enjoyed it, most people researching how to repair an anvil are doing so because they don’t know how to repair an anvil! I normally really like constructive criticism but in this case there is nothing for me to learn or do differently because the points you brought up don’t make any sense at all. I filmed the entire process of this restoration, so unless you’d like to watch nine hours of close up footage of me grinding and welding then this is the best I can offer. People researching how to repair anvils want information that they can use to repair their own anvils, the people who have anvils already know how to grind and weld, so no need to teach them. Hope you find someone else who’s videos meet your standards, if you can’t then maybe you should try making a few educational videos of your own seeing as you know better than me regarding my work and filming.

[@JollyJay1.0]

@Anvil Repairs how can I contact you, I'm from Limpopo province, please leave your email address on this comment. Thanks in advance.

[@anvilrepairs]

Hi Kobus, you can call or WhatsApp me on 0824231276

[@anvilrepairs]

@kobus van Wyk my email is [e-mail]

[@JollyJay1.0]

@Anvil Repairs will contact you soon, thanks.