2 Clicks Out: S1000RR 200 lb Rider vs 300 lb Rider Suspension Setup Intro

[@Themayseffect]

Wouldn't it be mandatory for someone his size to change the springs? Can't imagine damper adjustments is the quick fix here.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Electronic suspension makes a mind numbing number of decisions per second and with damping set stiff along with preload, fork and shock travel would be telling within 80-100 miles. At that point there would be no doubt if springs were needed. Also bear in mind that these motorcycles are built for 2 humans, so the joint weight may not be that far off at 300lbs.

[@King-Arthur-The-First]

@@catalystreactionsbw I agree with the original post here rather than the reply by DM. The bikes suspension is designed to withstand the weight of two humans only as worse case scenario and even then would require a lot of spring pre load to aid the support. Different springs would actually be needed for the 2 people if it was to be the normal use case for the bike. The same applies if one rider is heavy as in this case.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@King-Arthur-The-First Agreed on design, yet "real world" travel used would be an excellent indicator that springs were mandatory. In that case you know what you need based on preload settings for the new rate. Definitive information is easy to find if you want a complete picture.

[@Maltry]

Is there a good resource anywhere that explains all the terminology ie preload, dampen etc for beginners? I've watched many DMT videos but still struggle to comprehend what all those adjustments actually mean. Please and thank you.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Here are a few links for you: davemosstuning.com/?s=preload

[@catalystreactionsbw]

davemosstuning.com/?s=rebound

[@catalystreactionsbw]

davemosstuning.com/?s=compression

[@catalystreactionsbw]

davemosstuning.com/?s=sag

[@seanviper99]

Im about 70kg so I leave the suspension front and back at factory setting. Seems to work but dont sure if i should stiffen it up if i got some stuff in my panniers

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Attach a cable tie to the right leg and look at shock travel to see how much of the shock shaft is dirty/clean. That visual check will tell you if you need to go softer/stiffer. Nothing like honest information to guide you based on actual riding :)

[@aleksandaarr]

I have bmws1000rr 2013 ... when I’m over 200kmh it starts head shaking so terribly bad I almost cannot control it on a straight piece of good road. Some sugestion pls

[@nosretepification]

g2 RR should be very stable even under hard braking from high speed - something is wrong. check the headset bearings for play and service the steering stabilizer. The adjustable sachs stabilizer is OK but is not pressurized and needs frequent service. If you have never done that you have a mocha cappuccino in there and it is useless. you can get a pin spanner from a bicycle shop for $10 to open it up - can't remember if it is 2.5 or 3mm. It takes a heavier fork oil - Torco RFF 15 or 20 works well.

[@jmward214]

I'm 6' 300lb, was debating a Harley but too much $ right now. Found a ninja 636 for sale lowered and stretched for a steal, would it be a decent option just for a first bike/ work rider?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

At 6' you would need to get the bike put back to stock height for the shock and a used swing arm off eBay is cheap. Different fork and shock springs would be the next investment, so $800 to $1,000 later you have a great motorcycle built for you.

[@ur2slob724]

Hey Dave bmw recommends fresh fork oil every 30,000kms What’s yo ur opinion on this? I’m at 29,500kms now

[@infinitycl]

Can the stock suspension on a 2015 S1000RR with DDC work for someone who is around 250-70 pounds or would I need to change out the fork springs?

[@comfortablyunknown700]

Your riding style and skill will also be a factor. Measure bottom out on your forks...(Dave has videos for that) Place a zip tie on your fork...(Dave has videos for that) If your zip tie bottoms out, add preload. Adjust compression & rebound as needed. If your preloud is all the way in and you are still bottoming out the zip tie, you need to change out your springs. To the Daves, I do not mean to over step. Just hoping to help a fellow rider. I have been a student and fan of Dave Moss for a while.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@comfortablyunknown700 Good starting point as a guiding principle! Make sure the fork oil is never older than 8,000kms/5000 miles. To add one more data point, start with fork damping at +1, then try +2, +3 and +4 with preload at the same setting to see if you bottom out. If you get to maximum preload and +5 on fork damping, new spring for sure and possibly revalve.

[@Szlejer]

Thumbs up for the VFR800 VTEC in the background!

[@ur2slob724]

Szlejer nah mate not when there’s a s1krr around

[@ThomasShue]

I need this guys help on my bike Come to KCMO and help me please

[@deadnightgenesis]

What bike is that on which the shaved head dude sits? 2:59

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Ducati Diavel

[@slymoonlight]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you Dave for answer and cool content!

[@Themayseffect]

X diavel

[@ericleeSupSayK]

100 bucks these two have no idea wth he is trying to say.

[@MADLITS1K]

If they don’t then they’re learning lol did you come out of your mother knowing all? KZbin riders man..

[@georgel3657]

@@MADLITS1K I came out of your mother knowing a little bit more ;-)

[@MADLITS1K]

@@georgel3657 nice, not the best not the worst.. 3.5/10 .. try something alil more unique next time

[@harleyguy7]

That guy was way to fat for that BMW I think Dave was just being polite