2-Stroke Dirt Bike Pipe Repair- HydraForce Blow Out

This video shows a stock 2018 KTM 250 EXC TPI pipe being repaired using the HydraForce Blow Out kit. Be sure to bleed all air out of the pipe before increasing the pressure or it could be very dangerous.
This is the original video I made showing the blow out of an FMF Gnarly pipe with HydraForce:
• HydraForce Exhaust Blo...
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[@CW-up7xv]

Nicely done

[@087fpv]

Nice fix

[@snowrider4495]

if you want a 90% fixed pipe use the hydro to reset the pipe shape then use heat and air pressure to pull most of the dents out! the hydro does not fix the dents near as good as heat and air pressure!

[@LUvS2RoOT]

What is your profession ? You know how to do everything !! Love the vids mate !

[@TokyoOffroad]

I'm an engineer (electronics). I do not know how to do everything, but I do enjoy trying and learning...

[@Shipman37x]

Could I use this on my kx250? I dont want to kill myself heating my pioe and blowing my head off over dents

[@NirHason]

@Tokyo Offroad , Mark I used my HydraForce to fix my dented and bent pipe and the dents are gone but the problem is that the pipe's head is still bent (went up to 600PSI before the original o-ring failed - ordered the one you recommended). I remember that you mentioned that you used to have a pole for straightening the head, do you insert the pole inside the head pipe or the head should go inside the pole (same way it mounted to the engine) and then bent it the other direction? (should I use a torch?)

[@TokyoOffroad]

I have a pipe which fits inside the head pipe and then bend it. You don't need to heat it as it should bend fairly easily

[@NirHason]

@@TokyoOffroad tnx for the quick response. BTW I noticed that if I release the pressure fast, the pipe is going back to it's pre-fix shape a bit, but if I'm doing it slowly it's keeping the 90% of the new shape. something you noticed too?

[@maxapollo1]

Where do you buy this tool ... link ?

[@tomasprochazka1551]

I wear the skid pipe plate from outsider racing!!!

[@NirHason]

4:28 - 4cm below that weld you can see a drop of water making its way out of the pipe - another hole?

[@TokyoOffroad]

I noticed that too. Possibly it was water releasing from the seam. If it was a hole it would have been squirting at 500psi. Either way it did cause an issue for the repair.

[@NirHason]

@@TokyoOffroad I think the results are really good! (you meant to say "didn't cause"?)

[@dazaladz]

This kit has saved me about £750 in bent pipes

[@grutzmac]

@UCp3QaDEMSz5HXL_7L9fes6A I have a FMF pipe with a tiny pin hole that I noticed when I used my hydraforce. I was able to go to full pressure and blow the pipe out because the hole diameter is so minimal, very little water comes out. Do you think it really would make a difference regarding performance? I don't have a TIG welder...

[@TokyoOffroad]

Aaron Grutzmacher - No, I don’t think a pin hole makes any difference to performance.

[@Drewski423]

Have you ever attempted to blow out one of the stock 20+ ribbed KTM pipes? If so, did it twist it to where it was hard to re mount? I just did my Pro Circuit Exhaust for my 2020 300xc tpi and I also did my stock. The pro circuit went back on no problem and the stock....not so much....any advice on what to do to get the stock mounted back up? It’s like it twisted everything left. I need to figure out some way to fix it if I am ever going to be able to use the stock in the future.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Yes, I tried blowing out a 2020+ ribbed pipe once and the shape changed a lot. Not recommended.

[@Drewski423]

@@TokyoOffroad yep. Shape changed on mine as well. Good thing I have the pro circuit. I will have to figure out how to get it mounted somehow. The pro circuit went right back on.

[@mxfreaks]

Any occurrences of the seams bursting at that high of psi? I'd be scared to be anywhere near that pipe with all that pressure built up. Maybe I've just watched too many youtube videos of tires exploding and almost killing people and am scarred for life.

[@TokyoOffroad]

It's water at pressure, not air. Water compresses very little, even at high pressure, meaning that it something fails during the blow out process there is a spurt of water for a second or two and no explosion. As such it's a relatively safe process. It's very important that you bleed all the air from the pipe though before staring to increase the pressure.

[@mxfreaks]

@@TokyoOffroad That makes sense, thanks for the reply!

[@66AGW]

Hello!how about using a heat gun over the dent?

[@elis740]

You can use a "heat gun" to remove the dent, but it won't work when the pipe is full of water, the water will absorb too much of the heat. You would need to use the air method (which can be more dangerous). I often use a MAP Gas Torch and 80psi of air, but it does get rather exciting when the plugs pop out, and they will pop out!

[@Kyle-pl6rl]

Seems like a sound investment

[@billshuey7422]

Like I stated before I did numerous dent removals using air pressure and a torch. I also filled the pipe with water and froze it. The freezing appears to be the safest and easiest but not always the most effective.

[@bene9231]

When is it time to bent the pipe? I realized that almost every 3rd ride the pipe does not sit exaxtly straight in the head. But to be honest I do not want to pull the pipe every third ride. Is there any advice how straight it needs to sit in the cylinder?

[@TokyoOffroad]

Often if the header isn't straight it'll leak which isn7t good for performance, or often creates a mess. My advice is to fix it when it needs fixing. Some people prefer and have good luck with full coverage skid/pipe guards. I'm not a fan as they add a lot of weight, especially when it's muddy, but if you don't like fixing your pipe and bend it often it may be worth considering...

[@bene9231]

@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for your response. I am also not a fan of heavy skid plates. Especially because it collects a lot of stuff (also dry leaves). I think I will go with benting it more often. But can you give me an advice how straight it needs to sit? It is not leaking any oil right now but it also does not sit 100 percent straight in the flange. I also don't know how to check if it leaks some air/gas. Some experience to make me less worry would be great for me.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Be Ne - A good indication is ease of mounting the pipe and silencer. If a lot of force is required it’s not straight enough. Also the header should sit straight in the flange. It’s a good idea to replace the o rings once a year as they can become hard and start to leak. If buying aftermarket o rings be sure to purchase silicone ones.

[@Yelwas]

Nice job, don't really know if a slapping hammer would work better for you, than the hammer you were using. you can make one form a big ugly old buggered bastard file. BTW I'm in Japan, can you recommend where to buy a TIG set and owner GAS bottle.

[@TokyoOffroad]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into what the best hammer to use for such repairs is more. The hammer I used worked fine though. I purchased two 1,500L argon bottles from this online shop located in Osaka yousetsuyouhin.ocnk.net/product/3099 and have them refilled by a local gas dealer in Tokyo. My TIG welder I purchased directly from the manufacturer (Topwell). The model is Masterweld 250 and I got the torch water cooler too.

[@Wide000]

Using a torch on the dent to facilitate the repair is not possible with this system?

[@vegasromaniac]

Well not with water in it.. It will never go over 100c and if it does it will boil buold more pressure, blow up

[@TokyoOffroad]

I have a different set of bungs for compressed air and heat blow out method. But you could modify the HydraForce bung (take off the hose and add a Schrader valve) if you want to. But I like using the HydraForce system with water as it’s quick and easy.

[@Wide000]

@@vegasromaniac I was thinking about that aspect when I asked my question. Not sure but I was thinking that the outer surface directly under the torch must reach much more than 100c, even the inner face on the flamme area. Yes, the water would eventually reach the boiling point but it would take a long time. The metal would be harder to heat with the cooling effect of water but it would be still more malleable in the dent area and the whole water would not have the time to reach 100c and create too much pressure? Just guessing.

[@enduro-parts-aus]

awesome tool, but people say the heat method is dangerous but id hate to see that explode and 500 psi haha

[@TokyoOffroad]

- Rexy - So long as you bleed all the air out the danger is minimized. If it fails you get a spurt of water for a second. But if you don’t bleed all the air it could be very dangerous...

[@simon4776]

which method to weld ?

[@TokyoOffroad]

TIG welding

[@markbelden1470]

Must be it don't work worth a shit nobody leaves a link for someone to purchase one ??????

[@vegasromaniac]

Haha 2 stroke only problems

[@NirHason]

Indeed but worths it :)

[@vegasromaniac]

@@NirHason haha, not for me... Had one, dolt it, best decisions ever to go 4t

[@TokyoOffroad]

Not true. If you ride in rocks you can easily dent/crush a 4-stroke header pipe. One of my friends put a full titanium Akrapovic system on his 500 EXC and second ride with the new exhaust dropped it on a rock, crushing the header. Broke his heart (and wallet)... :-O

[@jackbauer9347]

@@vegasromaniac It's ok..some guys should just ride thumpers. No shame, really.

[@vegasromaniac]

@@TokyoOffroad I love your riding videos btw, but riding vidoes fan, but, that's where the amazing yz250fx bike design comes in to place, the pipe it's wrapped around then cylinder and guarded by the frame. Just google a pic of the yamaha and you will be amazed. I have replaced 2 pipes in one year on my Ktm 250xc than I built a cage around it only to find out that even with the cage the pipe just didn't have the WILL to live.