20-Minute Saw Tune-up

[@allanwells4886]

I'm going to have a go at this on my old dilapidated saw. Thank you.

[@TheHandToolery]

👍

[@markharris5771]

One of the best tool I have ever invested in is my saw set. I can’t use a panel saw too well because of my upper body difficulties, though I’m slowly finding workarounds. I'll use a back saw over a power tool whenever possible, it’s far more accurate at times. For me the biggest asset, with a saw is confidence. I love James Wright’s channels and like yourself the man is very courteous and has answered many questions for me. He has been a massive help as have you. You are a phenomenal inspiration for "have a go" and learning on the job. Thank you for all your videos, they have a bigger impact than you know.

[@KB4QAA]

Ok, you gave me the confidence to tackle the tiny teeth on my saw. Thanks!

[@TheHandToolery]

Alright!! Not gonna be perfect the first time, but each time will get better!

[@timothymallon]

I noticed you didn't stone the saw after sharpening. You can clean up the residual burr from setting the saw and make it more consistent. That could reduce a couple cuts as well and make the finish even nicer. Personally, I wouldn't hammer set the teeth. That's a little less accurate.

[@Mikhandmaker]

This has been a very good demostration of how to make a good sharpening, this remembered me that I have to make it on mines, Well done man!

[@jamescampbell7780]

Why would you set the saw after sharpening which results in the saw set, which is made of metal, making contact with the newly sharpened teeth?

[@egglyph]

"Warranted superior" means a saw was made by some brand for a retailer, e.g. "Montgomery Ward" planes were actually manufactured by Stanley. A retailer was supposed put its own medallion, but most of them didn't. Most warranted superiors I have seen were Disstons with some price engineering in non-essential parts.

[@tangle70]

Shouldn't the handle also have a lamb's tongue if it was that old?

[@maineiacacres]

I've read pretty much the same thing, egglyph. I take it as a sort of economy line from some of the major saw makers. I've also read that WS was the major makers' factory seconds (more or less).

[@suecollins3246]

How many file strokes for each tooth?

[@drewt3210]

Thank you for making this super approachable! I watched Paul Sellers, but it looked pretty intimidating. I gotta go get my saws tuned up now! Best, @HoneyOnWales

[@trevorcartwright3372]

hello I have been watching your videos. I am a beginner in wood work. Can you tell me what number do you use for the saw set . i would be very grateful for your answer.

[@TheHandToolery]

Hey! Thanks and welcome! Saw sets can be very different but basically the set is related to teeth per inch, tpi. For a saw that is very aggressive and meant to plow through lots of material you need more set. For more precision saws that will maybe only cut joinery want a bit less set.

[@TheHandToolery]

Here is a helpful article: www.vintagesaws.com/library/ftj/spring97/spring97.html

[@TheHandToolery]

Like I said the numbers on a set are tpi but as the article says it’s more important to get experience and rely on that rather than strictly the saw set numbers. The article suggests soft vs hardwoods as a guide for set. But again I am mostly concerned with, personally, aggressive with more set, and precision with a bit less.

[@suecollins3246]

Maybe you can advise me... Yesterday I bought a _really_ crappy old saw from a second hand shop. Paid ten South African Rand for it. It has a broken Pax-type handle. It's a ten-inch 12tpi saw. I've got all the rust off. (It was a _mass_ of rust) But it's still highly discoloured. A little pitting but not much - I suspect it's made of carbon steel but I can't see a maker's mark but it's a sound saw with a well-made 'feel' to it. Any info or advice?

[@suecollins3246]

Sorry - forgot to mention that it's a tenon saw.

[@suecollins3246]

I don't know if it's a cross-cut...

[@Ed19601]

Very informative but you may want to up the volume a bit

[@David-fv7zg]

Works better if you use the other hand....LOL. Great instruction here, thanks for sharing this.

[@TheHandToolery]

Ha! Thanks!

[@wesleywillard]

Nice job man!

[@TheCoachStokes]

Nice video. It's important beginners understand, if you just take a file and get to work, you can very easily improve the cutting of an old saw. The thing to be careful of, and the biggest thing you can screw up, is adding too much set. When tuning a saw, it's been my experience that it is best practice to try the saw after sharpening; before you use the sawset. Oftentimes, it has been overset in the past, and you don't need more set.

[@TheCoachStokes]

I figured that you had, but the video was ambiguous. Good stuff, keep making content.

[@Ed19601]

Especially on a saw like this

[@razerface35]

What kind of saw set was that?

[@rizeliadossantos3769]

Que Deus abençoe um super Bj fique com Deus

[@suecollins3246]

You only counted in the one direction, of course...