$2000 MTB Upgrade Haul: Worth it?

[@sorinvladu7021]

*Here's What I Would Do* Fox Grip 2 upgrade kit: will essentially give you a Performance Elite fork with adjustable HSC and LSC, as well as HSR and LSR. Oneup carbon handlebar: Nice, light, compliant bar Gx axs upgrade kit $600: better shifting, and cleaner cockpit Industry 9 1/1 rear hub: provides much better engagement Berd spokes: lighter and stronger than normal spokes Absolute black chainring: improves pedaling efficiency and better technical climbing Volume spacers: customize suspension feel MTX brake pads: better modulation and better power. *Overall, This Will Save A Little Over A Pound of Weight, And Leave You With About $40 Left*

[@sneznavlocka1316]

I agree and think that your proposed changes will have much greater effect than carbon wheels for 1600.

[@MiloLife]

I wouldn’t have spent the vast amount of the budget on carbon rims but I’m also not making videos about it so kudos to you. Also, he’ll yeah, Bobsled.

[@bikersedge]

I thought long and hard about the upgrades I'd pick. I honestly felt the suspension was great as is. I couldn't think of anything else that would change the ride quality as much as carbon wheels.

[@spencerfisher4080]

i think rims are the best upgrade you can make

[@lacrosse4higher]

@@spencerfisher4080 definitely

[@roddas26]

Carbon wheels and enve bars for me too.

[@vongdong10]

The problem is he chose a big name company when he could have easily paid half for the same thing from a reputable Chinese company

[@acuhealer62]

All smart upgrades. I've made a few updates on my 2021 Orbea Rallon. I got the base model because waiting for the delivery on a higher end model wasn't practical for me. It came with a Fox 38 Performance fork and for 350.00 I changed the Fit 4 damper to the Grip 2. The Shimano Deore 4 pot brakes were unpredictable with a wandering bite point. I was able to score a set of TRP Quadiem brakes for 300 bucks and that made an amazing difference in my confidence on the bike. I also swapped out the stock stem and handle bar to a One Up stem and carbon bar (200 bucks). The ride is much more comfortable now and with the addition of a set of Ergon GA3 grips, no more wrist pain. Looking at a set of carbon Nobl wheels with DT Swiss 350 hubs for next season.

[@gregcavanaugh6259]

I'll just chime in here, judging by all the comments about not bothering with carbon wheels, I don't know if anyone rides XC/trails or uphill anymore??? A light set of wheels will make by far the biggest improvement to any bike. I know you didn't go light, but had you put on a set of 1600 gram wheels it would have been immediately noticable on that starting climb and on a stopwatch. I guess everyone is just enduro now?

[@maxwellcunningham8908]

I mean its already a big aluminum enduro bike. You can get some good aluminum rims for cheaper that are within less than 200g of carbon wheels and save more weight in other parts with the leftover money.

[@NickMorgan256]

I just got a set of i9/nox wheels and while they are basically the same weight as the alloy wheels I’ve been riding for years the nicer hub and stiffer wheels make a difference on the trail. I still need to get more rides in but you can tell a difference

[@aaritbabu3398]

Great and helpful video. Something I would mention is that if you did buy the nicer carbon bike to begin with, that $2000 really increases to almost $4000. Bike companies are able to get the parts for a lot cheaper and if you were to buy the carbon frame it would cost you like $1200 at least, while companies can get it for $400. Also with the drivetrain, a GX groupset would cost you or any normal consumer about $550, but for bike manufacturers, it'd be a lot cheaper and they can use that extra money on other parts. So basically if you were to buy the higher end bike for $2000 more, it would definitely be way more than $2000 for the upgrades you do on the cheaper one yourself to match it to the level of the carbon bike.

[@bikersedge]

Hey thanks. Glad you liked it. That’s a good point.

[@TheBlkzenki]

You can sell your old components

[@bikersedge]

@@TheBlkzenki I like to hang onto mine so I can put them back on the bike when I sell it. That way I don’t have to buy my upgrades again.

[@aaritbabu3398]

@@bikersedge Thats what I usually do too,. Resell value isn't that good for used parts, at least before the pandemic.

[@bikersedge]

@@aaritbabu3398 agreed. And your upgrades will add little to no value to the resale if you sell them on the bike.

[@esdubya]

Buy the alloy, upgrade the brake pads and put your preferred contact point items on. Save the $1600 for carbon wheels and instead of wheels that can’t be repaired, keep the stockers replace the hubs when the bearings are stuffed (which usually isn’t long with a cheap hub). Save the cash do some squats and lunges that will benefit you much than blowing the cash on carbon hoops. The only reason to buy carbon hoops is if you enjoy spending$1600 on them!

[@bikersedge]

I’ve done quite a bit of back to back with alloy and carbon wheels. I prefer carbon. They feel better. And to the durability point I’ve broken 4 alloy wheels and only one carbon. The carbon didn’t cost me anything to replace. The alloy did.

[@johncoons1666]

Carbon wheels for the win every bleeping time!

[@lenolenoleno]

​@@johncoons1666 Only 1 in every 20 or 30 EWS pros are running carbon wheels for a reason. A quality allloy wheelset doesn't weigh any move than an equivalent carbon rim, except for XC race bike spec.

[@soulzerosix]

@@lenolenoleno It's different for EWS racers, as the way the carbon rims fail means their day is over. Plus I think there's a penalty for replacing some basic parts like wheels through the race. For this reason they prefer alu rims that deform rather than shatter, so with some "persuasion" they can be banged back to a usable shape. We don't know how many rims they go through a year though, given that at least half of them don't run inserts. For us mere mortals it's really a matter of budget. Would I go for a pair of carbon rims with a good warranty/crash replacement policy? Of course! Do I have the money to spend upfront? No, so I had custom alu wheels built and I run an insert at the rear for extra security.

[@lenolenoleno]

@soulzerosix what you say is true. However plenty of EWS pros have gone on record to say they prefer alu wheels as they like how they flex. They don't chew through rims as much as you think (used to work for an EWS pro team brand). World Cup DH racers do thrash rims thoough. It doesn't take away from my point that carbon wheels vs. A high quality set of alloy rims is in the marginal gains territory. This video is about "bang for buck upgrades". Yet he spent majority of the $2000 budget on marginal gains carbon wheels and handlebars that are barely more compliant than a set of 31.8 alloy bars. Hell you'd rather go the OneUp carbon bar which is even cheaper if you want actual compliance. Could have easily spent $600 on some DT EX1700s and used the leftover $1000 on things that actually make a difference. What would you actually notice? Upgrades to suspension and brakes. Get rid of those Guides for some Code RSCs or Magura MT7s or TRP Quadiems or Hope Tech 4 v4 brakes. Suspension you'd get a Vorsprung Secus or Smashpot as the air spring is the biggest upgrade you can make.

[@DFroelich]

Upgrading to a GX group (assuming you only need to swap the RD and shifter) is probably really easy to find used. SRAM offers the GX AXS upgrade for $600, so there are a lot of people sitting on their swapped out mechanical bits.

[@FoCoFlowShow]

I’ve done all of those upgrades to my various bikes over the years … BY FAR the most significant was carbon wheels (Nox farlow) w i9 hydra hubs - literally feel the improvement on every pedal - I’ll have a video on that upgrade on my channel in a few weeks 🤘. Nice work

[@thatpeskylimey]

+1 for the Nox Farlow rims. So much better (and cheaper) than Enve

[@duyle557]

I’m late to the party but I agree 100%. Unfortunately, I took the bad route because at the time I was new to mountain biking and didn’t know what I want and could only afford a $1500 bike. Well, I “buy as I ride” throughout the years and have spent over $5000 on upgrades. Would I have just use the money and gotten a better bike to begin with? Sure, but like I said, most people don’t have the money for such an investment and we still want to get into the sport. Also, the only thing I knew going in was that I would be upgrading so I opted for the cheapest components as I did not want to replace even mid tier components with higher ones so there’s also that group of people like me too. Not a wise choice either since now the only stock part is the frame which can’t be upgraded 😢

[@allenjanes5976]

Nice work. I went with a suspension upgrade to factory and ultimate. Then went with 1295 cassette and upgraded rear hub to onyx vesper. That's it. Made a huge difference overall

[@bikersedge]

Sounds like some solid upgrades.

[@blakekuhlmann2143]

love my vesper, i cant say it was worth the money. but the feeling it gives you is like nothing else.

[@MTB_Rider_96]

4 yeas ago I built a carbon hardtail with carbon wheels and a Shimano XTR 9100 drivetrain - no used parts. Total cost: $2700. I still ride it today. It took 4 months to find all the parts on ebay, but it was worth the wait. If you want a high quality bike, build your own and NEVER pay retail.

[@thim8009]

For me, high rise bars, koda wide saddle, one up pedals, suspention, then brakes. Thanks for showing.

[@bikersedge]

I almost always swap out my contact points when I get a new bike. I dob't really see those as an upgrade, rather a comfit/fit swap. That's why I didn't include them here.

[@Driftuner]

Def spend the money at the beginning with a better bike if you can. I mostly agree with your build except the wheels. 1600 bucks for carbon wheels on an aluminium bike with a stock NX build seems overkill. I would try and save that same weight simply on tires and maybe a lighter version of alu rims that weight less than the stock ones, without costing 1600 bucks. Like Newman A30s or EX1700 DT Swiss....you can also save some cash on the bars by simply adding a set of dampened grips..imo they make as much of a difference as the carbon bars while costing a fraction. Brakes, never save money on brakes imo, just go with the very best one you can get

[@XswamplordX]

Favorite MTB content on YT. Great video and that trails looks like an absolute blast 💥

[@bikersedge]

Hey thanks for the kind words!

[@andrewbrown8927]

The best upgrade out there for any bike is berd wheels. Or just installing berd spokes. I would say in second would be roost titanium handlebars. Those 2 things you will notice more than anything. Unless you have total shut brakes to start with.

[@stevenh3880]

Late to the party but thank you for this video it’s very helpful. Also I appreciate you casually talking about the bike while ripping that trail because some of those drops and lines are no joke

[@bikersedge]

It's a weird skill I've had to learn.

[@andrewvenditelli152]

Great vid. Not everyone has the money upfront for a high end model. For many people it’s more realistic to get a mid tier bike and ride it, then slowly upgrade over time instead of saving for another year.

[@bikersedge]

Hey thanks! Glad you liked it.

[@BMH1965]

Good spend on changing the NX shifter and derailleur. Changing the shifter was the best value change I made.

[@gmcg8775]

A wheel is technically unsprung mass, so it actually makes good deal difference. Good choices on upgrades.

[@wernervandermerwe8422]

its the less rotational mass that makes the big difference. 100grams shaved off of wheels feels like 1kg of bike weight. I'm very surprised he didn't feel that the bike goes way easier because of this on the uphill. but its probably because its not much lighter than the stock wheels

[@prominadetrekker]

Appreciate this video-quite relevant to where I am budget-wise. A month after buying and riding the ‘22 alloy Sentinel on rowdy blues and blacks, the most noticeable thing is the sluggishness of the SRAM NX shifter. That’ll be the first to go…until I, too, rip it off 😏 Then maybe the wheel set-I’ve heard the felt weight is greatest in the wheels, so that’s where to trim fat. My last bike was an aggressive hardtail…even so, the carbon bar seems a leisure rather than an actual need; with 160mm Fox rhythm up front and PNW loam grips, i don’t feel any buzzy hands on sustained chunk. It’s amazing what the Sentinel can do out of the box.

[@robbya6415]

That's funny. I just bought a 2020 Transition Patrol yesterday. First thing I did was took the bike to the shop for some TLC. I did the Magura Mt7 f/r brakes, Magura f/r rotors, new f/r tires with Cush Core in the rear only, and a major Tune-Up. That along cost a little over 1k (parts, labor & tax). As far as the drivetrain, it still got some life left so maybe in 3-4 months I would end up changing it. Yes, you mentioned going to a GX and that's what I have in mind. So, eventually I am looking at least 2k upgrades including a new drivetrain, and maybe a new saddle. The rest of the bike components looks good. Thanks for info and insight!

[@paulwintermute1495]

I bought the carbon bike with a cheap build (slx). Over the last two years I upgraded the bars, stem, seat, and finally the wheels 😎

[@denisrogers4358]

Thank for the Vid ! IMHO there is no better upgrade than a rear shock re-valve from the AVALANCHE Suspension crew. They “tune” your set-up not only for the leverage ratio, rider weight and terrain, but most importantly replace position sensitive valving with high speed Moto-technology. NO other spew-Tube channel has highlighted Craig’s superior damper. Please highlight ! 🔨🚲🤛🌯

[@superawesomefuntimego]

You also should take into consideration what you can get selling your take off parts which in theory would help extend that budget further. I recently went nuts buying upgrades for my new bike (before it even arrived since it was a 5 month wait) and recovered well over $2000 from the take off parts that paid for a TON of the better parts. Not to mention, looking around and shopping some selective sales helps, I saved 20% on my Code RSC's, X01 cassette, OneUp carbon bar and dropper.

[@bikersedge]

I usually keep my stock parts so I can put them back on the bike when I sell it. Then I don’t have to buy all the upgrades again.

[@mikeh6283]

Couple of notes/critiques on the video. I think the upgrades are legit but I think the justifications for them are little off. For me the move to carbon wheels has little to do with weight savings. It is actually very marginal compared to many aluminum wheelsets but the stiffness is significantly greater. Also in my personal experience the Enve M7 bar is really not a great bar to spec if you are looking for better compliance. A 31.8 bar like the M6 or M9 will be quite a bit better in this regard. Just ask your buddy Coleman there off the record and he will give you the facts (Also ask him about that gorgeous EXT suspension he is rocking and how THAT is the real way to unleash the potential of that Sentinel). I have to say I find it pretty funny that you describe the carbon bike to be more "lively" but don't consider that the suspension setup could be a factor at all.

[@bikersedge]

I didnt put carbon wheels on here for the weight savings either. I did it for the ride quality. The marginal difference in weight is just a bonus. I would have done an M6 or M9 but I didn’t have enough budget to buy a 31.8 stem. Had to stick with the 35mm bar.

[@ThunderStruckMTB]

Nice video. I would have gone a different direction with your $2K, but everyone has their opinions and you know what they say about that! The best upgrade I have done is my GX AXS kit. It replaced a perfectly functioning cable GX system for no other reason then I wanted it, and wow, what a dramatic difference it made.... and yes, I was one of those saying it was unnecessary without ever even riding it. The speed at which I can now shift, perfectly, every time, is a game changer for me and the best $500 I have ever spent for a single upgrade.

[@bikersedge]

I have the AXS kit on my analog bike. So good.

[@katietrotter9374]

How has it changed the game?

[@ThunderStruckMTB]

@@katietrotter9374 Reading comprehension is underrated.

[@lenolenoleno]

People who think wireless shifting is a "game changer" either a) don't know how to tune a derailleur or b) are drunk on the marketing Kool-Aid. I've tested (and every major MTB journalist agrees) that Shimano Deore 12sp with HG+ shifts better than AXS from a fresh install. Even getting a Shim group at the same weight, an XT 12sp shifter + derailleur costs about 1/4 of the price of GX AXS. As far as bike upgrades go, suspension (especially fork), brakes and tyres are the top 3 that'll actually make a difference.

[@victorbrunet6478]

Another thing to take into consideration, which you didn't mention in the video is the resell price. In the 2nd hand market, people are afraid of upgraded bikes. So you cannot really value the upgrades you did after buying the stock bike. So if you want a better bike, on the long term it might be a better calculus to just buy a better one at the first place, because it we sell better whenever you want to sell it.

[@bikersedge]

That’s a good point. Although I don’t buy my bikes to sell them. I buy them to ride them.

[@rstrakovsky]

I get why you blew through your budget to get the carbon wheels (wheels make a big difference), but I think bank for the buck I'd go in a different direction. My list would be: Brakes (Magura MT5s can be had for like $250) Nice mid-budget aluminum wheels with XD driver so you can put on GX/XO1 cassette Full drivetrain replacement (save weight on non-NX cassette) Bar/stem to dial in fit/feel Probably have a bit of cash left if you're happy with the suspension. Now you have a lighter, nicely shifting, nicely braking bike to go shred on!

[@bikersedge]

Those are also solid upgrades. These already had pretty decent alloy wheels. That’s why I went with the carbon.

[@rstrakovsky]

@@bikersedge gotcha. Maybe just upgrade the hub if you wanna stay on budget and add some other goodies. Not having to mess with suspension leaves a lot of $ to play with on a $2k budget.

[@DavidLaburglier]

after a couple years and many, many upgrades on my Ripmo NX, I'm still riding the same old NX Eagle cassette with no problems

[@bikersedge]

@@DavidLaburglier the cassette works pretty well. Is the derailleur that’s been known to not last a long time.

[@DavidLaburglier]

@@bikersedge ain't that the truth. I can count more broken derailleurs than times I've wished I had a 10t

[@lazylearner967]

Great video! I am interested in this "super top secret news". What hub is laced to those wheels? That handlebar sounds like a good upgrade that is cheap. Again, Zach and Connor, great video, I appreciate it.

[@bikersedge]

Stay tuned. Super top secret news gets declassified soon. The AM30s come with i9 101 hubs.

[@lazylearner967]

@@bikersedge I can't wait! Your shop seems to have the best secrets! So glad you are a stone's throw away from me.

[@jordanmackay3568]

Buy brand x carbon bars for $90. All the benefit of carbon bars for half the price.

[@bikersedge]

@@jordanmackay3568 Not all carbon bars are created equal. Some might even feel worse than alloy. The best ones I've ridden so far are the Oneups and Enves. Never tried Brand X.

[@jordanmackay3568]

@@bikersedge I've used them for a month or so now. Was using alu 31.8 bars before and was getting savage arm pump. Not had it since getting them

[@jmyers6175]

Thanks for the video. To me, It is like buying anything. House, car, going on a trip. The budget model is good and some people enjoy fixing it up. Customize as their skills improve. Basic is basic. Eventually you will want more. For me, I went all in from the start. But, I saved to get what I wanted.. yeti sb130 lunch ride. The old saying, Buy nice or buy twice.

[@ryankennard6626]

When my Hightower CC was stolen, I bought the alloy Sentinel GX, because it was the only bike that felt very impressive and was available in my size (XL) during the supply shortage. This left a lot of insurance money left over for upgrades. This alloy bike comes with the same brakes, suspension, and drivetrain as your carbon Sentinel, so I bought carbon wheels and bars for my Alloy GX and my hardtail (ditched a pandemic set of 27.5+ wheels and tires)! Since buying the Transition, I have discovered your parts comparison videos and found them useful when considering upgrades. Thanks for the advice and opinions!

[@daveharris39]

I don't think the alloy NX build comes with RSC brakes. The carbon GX does. I don't remember what comes on the alloy NX build... but the Guide R that came on Spur GX build felt very sluggish compared to the Code RSC on my Scout. I actually bought a rear RSC lever for the Spur ($100) but ended up selling the bike before installing it.

[@ryankennard6626]

@@daveharris39 As I stated, I bought the Sentinel Alloy GX, not the NX. The alloy GX comes with Code RSC on the blue and silver color (similar to the Carbon GX), and the green GX is spec’s with TRP DH-R EVO brakes (I can’t speak to this, since mine is blue). FYI, the Spec for the Alloy NX is Code R brakes. For the money, the Alloy GX has an amazing Spec. Fox Performance Elite Grip2 fork (Carbon GX has Lyrik Ultimate), Fox Float X Perf Elite shock, GX cranks, shifters, derailleur, and 520% Eagle, etc. The wheels were on the cheap, but I replaced those before buying.

[@madgtrgrhtrgrtgtyhrg]

The NX>GX swap is very worth it in my experience. The NX was constantly having shifting issues and was a pain to keep in tune. The GX was set and forget.

[@bikersedge]

I’ve had pretty much the same experience.

[@kevinshort3943]

I found the GX derailleur made a very marginal difference, but the shifter was a nice (and cheaper) upgrade.

[@henry06x]

You could have gone so much further on the used market. You could have gotten some bontrager, rovel, reynalds, Santa Cruz carbon wheels for $800-$1200 with a great set of tires probably even. Had plenty for a set of new take off only couple ride code r brakes for $200 I just saw $250 tops. Get the oneup carbon bars for $150. Found a new takeoff one ride x01 12x shifter and derailleur for $250 and you still got $200 minimum to buy whatever else you want.

[@chimps4gimps]

I’m not sure you really comprehended the performance upgrades involved in the Red Bull and Slim Jim. That’s got to be a combined 80watts right there! 🔥

[@bikersedge]

And 12 more seconds of hang time.

[@mrvwbug4423]

I'd probably skip the carbon wheels and get a good set of alloy wheels if the stock wheels suck, then use the extra money to upgrade the brakes. Definitely would spring for a Grip 2 or charger 2.1 damper upgrade if your fork is upgradeable and came with the cheap damper. Me being a 200+lb rider, having the separate high and low speed compression adjustment helps a lot. I also went the alloy build route on my Ripmo and the only thing I felt needed an upgrade was the brakes and I upgraded from Deore to XT brakes which was definitely worth it (Deores would be perfectly fine trail bike brakes, but you definitely want better if you're planning to do park or endurobro type things on your Ripmo). In the case of the Ripmo the DVO suspension is the selling point of the bike and is easily as good as a Grip 2 Fox fork.

[@bikersedge]

Yeah I’d say the more adjustable fork would be good. For me the stock one felt great. Honestly had no complaints. That’s why I went with the wheels instead.

[@NDemanuele1]

I been riding a V1 Ripmo for over a year and a half - NX/GX build, Fox Performance suspension and stock Ibis wheels. I made a few upgrades to this bike, initially it was a NX build. I changed the deraileur and shifter to GX and added SLX 4P brakes. Everything else I left stock including the 938 Ibis alloy wheels ( DHF front and Trailboss rear tires). I was happy with how this bike performed overall. Fast forward a few weeks ago, I was perusing online and found someone selling another V1 Ripmo with a XT build, Fox Factory suspension, S35 Carbon wheels/ I9 hubs and a Bike yoke dropper. I was mainly interested in the XT groupset. I decided to buy this bike since I had a buyer for my other Ripmo and realized it wouldn't cost much after that sale. Verdict: Initially, the most significant difference I noticed was of course how it pedaled - more efficient in climbing and techy areas. Everything else wasn't major. Maybe the cockpit - Ibis Carbon bars and Thompson stem does help with being able to steer quicker - noticeable, not major. What I didn't like was that I felt the other Ripmo was more planted on descents which I prefer. I did ask a few mechanics about this and even asked Ibis. Ibis suggested to try DHF's front and rear. Currently it has an Assegai front and DHR back. Maybe the suspension setup can make a slight difference too? I do like the lighter feel of this new Ripmo but would prefer it to be more planted on descents. And Btw, although I did not weigh them, they felt about the same weight but on the trail the new Ripmo was more nimble and felt light on the trail. Overall, I do like the performance of the new Ripmo. Was it necessary? Probably not...LOL. I really like how my first Ripmo performed. Certain things I don't need including Fox factory - who's going to use all those extra tuning features?...LOL. Even the wheelset, I'm torn. I was very impressed with the Performance of the stock 938s, although there is a substantial difference with how the S35s feel especially with I9 hubs. However, this bike performs so well no matter the build! That's what makes the bike a so-called Unicorn!...LOL.

[@cliffsangelsphotography]

Great vid! After having a custom Ibis Ripmo, I learned what upgrades really mattered to me. I got a Ripley AF Deore build and made very specific upgrades: Onyx Vespyr with WTB KOM Light rims Race Face Next carbon bars Maxxis 2.4 Rekon/DHR2 tanwall Over time I'll swap to XT shifter and cassette, and metallic pads once they wear out. I won't do Factory setup because I don't intend to get too rowdy with this bike.

[@bikersedge]

Hey thanks! Sounds like a rad bike.

[@MasterChronometer]

Building a bike for me seems to be more cost effective than buying one off the shelf and changing all the parts out. It’s a pity more brands don’t offer better specced alloy bikes.

[@Jimbob-eu4gd]

Specialised have recently done one but it’s a lot of $$$ still

[@paradox963]

Agree with the parts to upgrade if not the choice of parts, I would have done the wheels with WeAreOne wheels with the same hubs for $200 less than the Enve, used a Oneup bar for $50 less and better compliance, I would stick with the GX upgrade, add a XO1 chain for much better drivetrain life, and a set of Push seals for the fork, and you still have $230 for other stuff like different tires depending on what came on the bike that can make a huge difference.

[@halnogaies1256]

You said the one up bar has better compliance than the enve?

[@paradox963]

@@halnogaies1256 Yep, every Enve bar I have tried is stiff AF, the One Up was designed to have good vertical compliance with a 35 mm clamp.

[@halnogaies1256]

@@paradox963 So there are none with a 31.8 clamp?

[@mattiasvanoverbeke1831]

I basically upgraded my whole bike (suspension: fox 36 factory (20mm) more travel, fox dpx2), new wheels, bars and stem, not carbon, my frame is carbon and i prefere aluminum, (because freeride), spend close to 3k, made it way better, wouldn't do it differently on that bike, but i wouldn't do the same on a different bike

[@anthonyhum8739]

This is great. I had the same mentality with my small Ripmo AF Deore: upgraded to XT drivetrain, SLX cranks, one up handlebars & grips, pedals, 150 dropper post and switch, swapped the rear Assegai, for Dissector, Nukeproof 35mm stem and bash guard w/chain guide. Wish I had money to upgrade wheels but that $$$. In the end selling all my takeoffs on stock parts I think it was a difference of $500.

[@bikersedge]

Right on! Those are some smart upgrades.

[@BMH1965]

Good carbon bars really do take the sting from trails/rocks.

[@derekepetersen]

If you don’t have it getting industry nine hydra rear hub is a treat. Being in an area with punchy climbs having that instant engagement is immediate and boost fun factor. Better shifter adds to the instant experience. I have the XX1 and is overkill after having CO1 and GX. GX is great.

[@bikersedge]

Those are sweet hubs. I have them on a set of I9 wheels. So nice.

[@mprox3431]

Great comment with it's not going to make you faster or stronger just maybe enjoy the bike more. Speaking for myself these and other videos tend to make me think that i can ride like that when the reality is a little different. Great video!

[@bikersedge]

Hey thanks! Glad you liked it.

[@mikemazzantini6397]

I'm curious about your microphone setup. You speaking was amazing clear on those ripping downhills.

[@bikersedge]

I run an external lav mic and then sync audio in post.

[@alecchrz]

i would say carbon wheels arent the most worthwhile purchase... if i had to rank upgrades on any bike id say #1 nice gripped up tires. #2 carbon bar. (literally eliminates those vibrations that hurt ya arms) #3 more powerful brakes with bigger rotors. (being able to modulate your braking vastly improves your ride) #4 sram gx/shimano deore xt or higher drive train. #4 upgrade your suspension dampers for ultimate adjustability. #5 a deecent wheelset that matches your riding needs.

[@bikersedge]

Not a bad list of upgrades. Luckily the suspension and tires were already great on this bike. Wheels make the biggest difference to how your bike rides. That’s why I spent the majority of my budget on those.

[@vashusan1984]

Man I really need to ride Bobsled. Not sure I'm quite there on my hardtail yet. Some of those gaps look gnarly.

[@bikersedge]

It’s a blast.

[@marcgallant5270]

Custom wheels "DT Swiss XM481/240" combo + better brakes /Bar and a custom suspension tune would probably cost similiar. I suppose if depends on what you're trying to achieve. Nothing tracks like carbon wheels though! but a burly 30h rim laced with single butted spokes does a decent job and are decently stiff.

[@bobvelting379]

I myself prefer to get the high-end alloy spec bike over a lower end carbon bike because I am not even close to a good ride and will fall at some point in the near future and trust an alloy frame more than a carbon one when it comes to impact resistance. hopefully, my new top fuel 8 comes in some time at the end of next year and I will be making some smart upgrades at the beginning of 2023 like the damper in the sid fork. really looking forward to finally getting rid of the cheap xc hardtail and moving to something a bit more aggressive and fun

[@anthonywalters7434]

I found running a 31.8mm alloy bar to feel way better than any 35mm alloy bars I’ve ridden in the past 3+ years, specifically GT’s in house bars. They are shockingly good. I’d say I’d pick something similar to it over anything carbon any time.

[@bikersedge]

31.8 all the way.

[@anthonywalters7434]

@@bikersedge 100% agree. Plus with a 38 up front everything feels super precise without being harsh.

[@nickzarnetske9994]

I wish more manufactures would put out a nicer alloy build from the factory. That's the best bang for the buck in my opinion.

[@koukimonzta]

Changing to 30t made me enjoy my bike

[@zxtenn]

when i bought my 3 star GX Niner RDO hardtail i upgraded to XO cassette, XO crank and YISHUN carbon XC wheels, 1225 grams with 180 hubs and 1300.00, with 240 hubs i could have gotten them for a grand. I have their 1426 gram trail wheels with the 240 EXP hubs, 30 internal, etc

[@MrDefiant17]

Only one thing need more its to upgrade on RSC levers instead of crappy Code R...those levers changing whole feeling and power of brakes. Yes I know the price for 2 levers its 180-200 euros.

[@bikersedge]

If I had the budget I would have done that exact thing.

[@simonjohnson7025]

Never ridden with any carbon components before, I don’t trust the wheel set I but I do envy them lol

[@bikersedge]

In my experience carbon wheels have held up better than alloy.

[@ES-lh1tj]

Agree on all points, Carbon fiber rims are always the first upgrade. I would add looking at your terrain to ditch those crappy, heavy, wide Maxxis tires. It's a mountain bike not a motorcycle. Get some Victoria Mezcals 2.0 - saves tons of weight and much faster. Ditch the dropper seat post too. Way too heavy. I never used mine so I replaced it with a Thomson post. Lastly, I looked at my engine, me! I worked hard and dropped 20 lbs. Boy does that add to increasing performance! Not pulling all that weight! Ha!

[@bikersedge]

I’m with you on everything but the dropper. If I had to choose I’d take a dropper over rear suspension all day.

[@nathanb101]

That trail looks so fun and flowy!!

[@bikersedge]

Sure is. Tons of fun.

[@kyleottosen1021]

Awesome video ND good choice on the upgrades. Side note I don't realize how lucky I am to live in the PNW til I see trails like this. Such a different type of riding.

[@bikersedge]

Ha. You are a lucky one. I’ve ridden up there a few times. It’s always amazing. We’ve got the desert though. That’s some solid riding too.

[@discordmod2888]

Give tannus armor or cushcore a shot it really makes a difference

[@bikersedge]

I’ve ridden with it plenty. Still wouldn’t include it in my list if I only have $2k to spend.

[@Gretsch0997]

love how the cemetery is at the end of the trail. hahaha

[@bikersedge]

Just in case you screw up that drop.

[@jazmanjones6023]

Cool info on the upgrades, but WHAT TRAIL IS THAT?! 🤯

[@bikersedge]

Bobsled in SLC

[@joseph-the-seventh]

Just discovered Bikers Edge and have been enjoying all your video reviews. It seems like the Sentinel keeps popping up in your videos... which got me wondering, is the Transition Sentinel your favourite bike? Just curious, I'm planning to get one myslef.

[@bikersedge]

Hey thanks! I owned a sentinel for all of 2021. That’s why it’s in so many videos. But yes it’s one of my favorite bikes to date.

[@stephenbutkovich1014]

Not really an apples-to-apples comparison given that the $2000 price difference should also factor in a carbon frame versus an aluminum frame, and you are simply swapping out $2000 worth of parts on an aluminum frame. My apologies if you address this later in the video. With that said, great video overall - I think the wheel upgrade is definitely worth the money. Keep up the good work!

[@bikersedge]

That was the entire point. Could I make the cheap one better than the carbon one with 2000 worth of upgrades? We already published the carbon vs alloy video a couple weeks ago.

[@mat2ca578]

Very valuable input. Wish you were my LBS. I wanted / needed (N+1) a new ride for a major week plus of riding in Montana last summer. Tried to get a Ripley AF from you guys but no luck with supply issues. Ended up with a DeLano Peak and chose the AM30 wheels. What a difference. Handle bars are sounding like a great option but think I need wheel liners first to protect the wheels for the dry rocky trails this winter in SoCal and when I visit Nevada and St George. Like to know where and what your test trail is. This year in transit to Wyoming needed a ride and Mt Nebo filled the bill. Little isolated for quick ride by myself but awesome.

[@bikersedge]

Any time you’re in Utah stop by. We’d love to see you at the shop. I filmed this one on bobsled. It’s about 5 minutes from downtown SLC. Great after work lap.

[@BlacqueJacqueShellacque_]

For me carbon bars are like a dropper post. Once you try it...you will NEVER ride a bike without either again. I ride the OneUp bars and it makes a huge difference over aluminum.

[@bikersedge]

Agreed.

[@99MCougar]

Great video! I totally agree, upgrades will make the bike more fun but it won’t make you a better rider. I would buy the base bike, ride it as is. Possibly do some cheap upgrades and upgrade as thing wear out but would never go for something like carbon wheels. I would much rather put that towards a different bike (hardtail, Fatbike, etc)

[@skullsroad3642]

Ok, I should probably get some carbon wheels. I have a size large Banshee Rune V3 that kills me on long boring climbs and I get absolutely knackered trying to throw it around. It's 38lbs. DVO diamond, DVO jade coil, deore drivetrain, tough casing judge in back, light (but still heavy) casing verdict in front, and hunt enduro wides. The wheels are just over 2000 grams and the coil is a full pound heavier than the X2 that came with the frame. I can drop 2 lbs just from changing those two parts, and half of it will be unsprung.

[@bikersedge]

Carbon wheels might help a bit. I don’t really buy them for the weight saving. Rather I buy them for the ride quality.

[@BH-cy9tb]

If I bought wheels which I’m going to do soon especially with carbon, I researched and I can get a good used set of carbon wheels with good engagement for under 1,000.00. On an ebike I sold I had bought cheap Chinese carbon wheels for 650.00 and was surprised how good and strong they were. I’m not into name brands unless I absolutely know they are better than off brand names. But good video.

[@bikersedge]

One thing I’ve noticed about premium wheels/brands is the warranty and crash replacement programs tend to be better. I’m sure that’s factoring into the cost. I have a set of i9 rims I broke. I had a new wheel laced up within a week at no cost to me. Right there it was the couple hundred extra.

[@rodrigopages1054]

With that money I would have got a damper upgrade on the fork and have the shock tuned, the gx shifter and derailleur, and the wheels maybe the pads aswell

[@bikersedge]

I was honestly pretty stoked with the stock suspension. Didn't feel like it needed to be upgraded.

[@rlopez9044]

Great video.. thanks Do you have a video reviewing the Transition Spur?

[@bikersedge]

Yes.

[@donak2773]

i have higher end spank wheels with vibrocore havent had the urge to go carbon yet

[@seanparker7415]

Interesting project. I agree on the investment up front in the best bike is the overall cheapest and best option - but then I tend to keep my bikes for many years so the investment pays off. Contact points are upgrades/changes that we tend to make anyway and make a lot of difference - saddle, tyres, bars, brakes - so that's where i'd start. I don't know if I'd be able to tell the diffreence between mid-range drivetrain and high-end.

[@bikersedge]

Yeah. Contact points are my first upgrade but for the sake of this video I didn’t make any. Those are so subjective that it doesn’t make a ton of sense to recommend any.

[@seanparker7415]

@@bikersedge yes, I take your point.

[@andyahtside2667]

I’m clearly misinformed because I thought the GX derailleur and shifter would be incompatible with the NX drivetrain. But once you get to GX, it’s compatible with XO1 and XX1 components. I’m glad that I’m wrong because that was a huge block for me to consider more value focused mountain bikes to upgrade as I go.

[@daved2023]

You are confusing the NX cassette with GX/X01/XX1. NX cassette uses HG driver and GX/X01/XX1 uses the XD driver. The derailleurs/shifters are compatible through the entire line (NX-XX1.)

[@bikersedge]

All 12 speed Sram stuff plays nicely together. NX and lower uses a different driver though.

[@teribennett5619]

Thanks for the video… I’m glad to see these made. You coulda just upgraded the hubs? You didn’t mention the hubs on the carbon wheels. Just saying your not a suspension guy, tells me you may be way off on your settings, a free upgrade! Tires for your trail, like $200? I didn’t know a decent delalier could make you slower on the downhill. Anyway thanks for the video

[@bikersedge]

Not saying I’m not a suspension guy. I always make sure to get my suspension dialed and set up correctly. What I’m saying is that for my weight, I fall in a pretty average range of suspension setup. I don’t miss the added adjustability of higher end suspension. I would argue that most folks would be just fine on mid grade suspension.

[@teribennett5619]

@@bikersedge thank you for the reply! Awesome content! ✊🏾

[@BlackFlag94]

IF you can afford it, it usually works out better financially to buy the bike you want to begin with... i.e. putting the 2k in at the beginning. Originally I was in the market for an £800 hardtail but I couldn't get one. After more than 1 year I got a £3200 Trek Fuel EX 8 on the old plastic. It's so much better in every way over the bike I was originally looking at that I would repeat that transaction given my time again. Do I wish I went for a carbon 9.7 or 9.8? Hmm.. not really. The only weaknesses on this bike are brakes and the fork is a little flexy. The brakes are identical on the carbon models and the fork is a 36 but shares the same damper technology. I don't feel like that is money well spent just for a carbon frame.

[@epicTPR11]

Nice video, I've put nicer parts on alloy frames before but I generally don't buy complete bikes. Also I don't think carbon wheels really make sense for the alloy sentinel as proper tough carbon wheels don't really save much weight over alloy, and the new trendy "compliant" carbon rims aren't much different in feel or stiffness. I do think they make more sense for something like an alloy hardtail or shorter travel bike where you could get away with a significantly lighter wheelset. Here's where I'd put the $2k: ex511s laced to 350's or Hope pro 4s - $600-800 depending on if you lace wheels yourself and where you source parts gx cassette, der, shifter $270 oneup carbon bars $140 220 rotor + mtx golds $115 rsc levers (if you wanna stick with codes) $200 DD rear tire (sentinel deserves it) $90 Spend the rest on beer, shuttles, camping etc All said it would probably weigh about as much as your build with some parts being lighter and some parts heavier

[@bikersedge]

I don’t buy carbon wheels for the weight savings. I buy them for the ride quality. They do make a pretty big difference there.

[@epicTPR11]

​@@bikersedge If you are feeling frame flex then yes some stiff deep/tall carbon rims could improve your "ride quality". That said most frames are plenty stiff these days, which is why we are seeing these new shallow carbon rims like your enves which are marketed as "compliant". I own a similar set of shallow carbon rims and apart from weight the difference in ride quality from alloy is negligible. I had a set of reserve v1 wheels I installed on my v1 alloy sentinel which made the bike feel much harsher/stiffer through chattery rock gardens. Switched to an ex511 alloy setup and the bike was much more comfortable on long descents and plenty stiff

[@bikersedge]

@@epicTPR11 compliant vertically. Stiff laterally. Best of both worlds.

[@epicTPR11]

@@bikersedge Exactly, just like a proper alloy rim. As I said I have a set of the new school shallow carbon rims on my short travel bike and notice no difference in ride quality versus alloy besides weight (a good thing, the bike is plenty stiff). I also work in the industry so you don't need to repeat marketing phrases to me

[@bikersedge]

@@epicTPR11 I do like the way alloy wheels feel in the chatter and rocks. But I don’t think they feel as good as a carbon wheel when it comes to the corners.

[@MRTJF777]

I was told brakes and tires were the most important components of a bike. Is the advice I received wrong?

[@bikersedge]

No. I think you’re probably right. Most components don’t make all that big of a difference in the big picture. Brakes and tires certainly do though. Wheels might be next.

[@ScienceFTW]

Dang those trails look super fun

[@bikersedge]

It is. Stoked to have it in my backyard.

[@kylerchumbley8835]

Have you done a video on your GoPro setup/settings? 👌🏽

[@bikersedge]

I haven’t made one. If there’s enough interest I’d be happy to make one.

[@Alexandros_Patsialidis]

Why not the M630s that u reviewed recently? I’m waiting for them to be build next week, suuuper stoked. Saving almost a pound! Let me know 😊

[@bikersedge]

Too expensive for my $2000 upgrade budget.

[@Alexandros_Patsialidis]

@@bikersedge got ya 😌

[@TeamCykelhold]

if you are very particular about components it can sometimes pay off to get a cheaper model and upggrade it while selling off the stock components since you would swap many parts any way. Thats how I often do it. especially sram brakes and short dropper posts almost always need to be upgraded along with the potential DPS specced shock. Wheels I move between bikes, so once bought they last for a while.

[@bikersedge]

That's a good way to do it. I prefer to keep my stock parts so I can just swap my upgrades from bike to bike.

[@TeamCykelhold]

@@bikersedge yeah makes sense to keep the stock parts too if you don't plan on selling it off as a frameset later on, but a full bike! Totally agree

[@pjsanab]

Longer dropper to increase manoeuvrability and a better shifter would’ve been my upgrades.

[@bikersedge]

This already has a 210mm dropper. No need for a longer one.

[@SubmarinersDive]

Carbon rims alone do not justify the coin. I have upgraded to Spank Vibracore 359's, reusing old hubs, and the ride quality will was immediately noticeable! For handlebars I went with Spank Vibracore Aluminum bars. Again the improvement in ride quality was immediately noticeable. Still didn't spend 2k on upgrades.

[@bikersedge]

Those Vibracore bars look cool. Never tried them though.

[@blakekuhlmann2143]

not sure id say it beats the carbon build, but a rock solid machine nonetheless. btw what trails you hitting? that stuff looks beutiful!

[@SethParker]

Fantastic lighting in the shop. Looks dope.

[@bikersedge]

Hey thanks!

[@seanknight9898]

I would have upgraded to a Grip2 Damper. That made a massive difference for me.

[@bikersedge]

I was honestly so impressed by the Rhythm fork I didn't feel it needed an upgrade. Unless you really need the adjustability of the Grip 2, I don't think it's worth upgrading.

[@liwx]

love your contribution there ! have watched the handlebar and stem video and loving it ! would you mind making a video of experimenting how handlebar roll would affect steering precision？

[@bikersedge]

Hey thanks. I could dig into handlebar roll. I don’t know much about it. I run what feels comfortable and that’s about it.

[@chimps4gimps]

For most bikers at the lower end of knowledge I’d probably pay for help with set up. Suspension alone is a minefield. Bike fit, although not as key as a road bike, is often not fully understood and consumers just buy into the latest trend.

[@suchasreallife]

For sure, I hate it when people up suspension without knowing how to dial in the base suspension good suspension is crap with out proper set up but to each there own

[@Roaming50]

I'm not sure the wheels is the best upgrade path. If you're going to put GX on it, then I would swing for GX AXS. For me, having AXS was the best change I ever did to a bike. Hard to go back to mechanical shifting now. Then save your money until you ding up the wheels then replace them...

[@bikersedge]

I've got the GX AXS kit on my analog bike. While it's rad and I'm a huge fan, I think the wheels have a more significant impact on how the bike rides.

[@walterkasper467]

Thanks for the great videos. I think that rhythm Fork is heavy

[@bikersedge]

Thanks for the kind words. Could be heavy. I never took it off to weigh it. Rides great though.

[@topspot4834]

Just found your channel. Great content. New sub!

[@stephanoverton347]

I guess what you could have also done is sold the stock wheels and NX bits then used that cash to pay for the brakes. Then you're still inside the $2000 budget.

[@bikersedge]

True. I generally try to hang onto my stock parts so I can put them back on when I sell the bike. That way I can transfer my upgrades to the next one.

[@wtfdoicare]

I'm confused why you gave a budget and then limited your potential upgrades based on that budget instead of your limiting your final choices by the budget. (can't have brakes because carbon wheelset) For example: wheels 1600 brakes 400 bars 200 tires 200 drivetrain 500 cranks 300 fork 800 shock 500 So, the pool of items is obviously over budget, but now pick the best items to fit the budget.

[@bikersedge]

That’s what I did. I picked the best upgrades I could think of with $2000 of budget. Because if you watch the video I mention that the thing that spurred this entire upgrades video was that I rode the carbon GX build vs the alloy NX build. The price difference between those two bikes is $2000. Also I’d think most folks have a limited budget and can’t always just buy the nicest of everything.

[@erinb4919]

Very interesting video and comparison. Your upgrades make sense.. I have been under impression that buying an alloy frame but with better components likely represents better value/ performance, vs buying carbon build with lesser components... Can components make up/ improve for performance of bike vs frame? ie a carbon frame with lesser components, vs alloy frame with better components (suspension, brakes etc) that cost roughly the same at outset, or even slightly less for the alloy build. This is something I would like to see tested.

[@bikersedge]

That’s pretty much exactly what I did in this video. I wasn’t just comparing before and after upgrades on the alloy frame. I was also comparing to the carbon GX kit. I still think you’re better off buying the nicer one to begin with if you can afford it.

[@bikersedge]

@@erinb4919 oh gotcha. I get it now. That would be interesting to try.

[@randomguypoopypapa8988]

i dont think that spending 2000$ on olny wheels bars shifter and pads is the right thing imo opinion if you have a bad brake switch to a four piston shimano deore or slx. get a descent groupset if you have sx nx or 11 speed deore. if ypu can upgrade the damper and maybe a good mid range alloy wheelset (e13 spank or something like this) i think that the thing that will make the highest amount of change will be better suspension, a good 12 speed drivetrain and good brakes, after this you can upgrade wheels bars and small stuff. and if you have a bad seat post\ bad tires \pedals\grips that will be even more important than upgrading anything else

[@bikersedge]

The suspension on this bike felt awesome. I’m the fork uses the grip damper (just offers less adjustment) which rides really nice. Don’t feel like the suspension needed upgrading at all. Wheels and bars (the tires were already great on this bike) will change the ride quality of the bike more than anything.

[@hansonwang2121]

First off if you have an extra $2000 you should just get the higher end model. If you did have $2000 to spend on a bike I would choose rear hub, shifter, brakes, coaching, and traveling.

[@bikersedge]

I’d you watch the video that’s exactly what I say…

[@ToadallyMemes]

Money is correlative Some Americans make 25k a year Some make 100k+ For most Americans 2k is a large amount of money...I spent that much on a electric bike...would I rather spend 2k on 5% performance benefit on 1 bike or have 2 still very good bikes...

[@suchasreallife]

Upgrades more depend on the rider I think, new riders need good brakes

[@bikersedge]

I think all riders need good brakes. Ha.

[@felixre7]

liter' lol @ the cheese board! Stay classy!

[@MartinTeerly]

What brake rotors you had ? Stock rotors are usually shit so no matter what pads you get your brakes still will be shit bro. I build few bikes over last few years and I can give you good advice