2000 Silverado AC Condenser & Radiator, Receiver Dryer, and Orifice Tube

[@oscarronquillo7794]

Master Tech with 15 yrs experience. If you disagree with this video then you have no idea how an A/C system operates.

[@jonnwray1918]

Oscar Ronquillo That's a pretty arrogant statement to make. Yeah, there are a couple things that I don't agree with in this video. Sorry Oscar, 15 years experience? That's still a newbie to me, started in this business in 1975, worked for the Federal govt as a mechanic until Sept 2012........37 years. Yeah, when R-12 was just a few cents per can, and we used a propane flame as a leak detector, evacuate the system back then meant just disconnecting a line and then go take a break for about 10-15 minutes. So I wouldn't go waving that "Master Tech" flag too much. I've seen lots of guys study the books to get the master certification, but can't find their ass when it comes to actually working on a vehicle.

[@APDTY]

Thanks Oscar, We completely agree, It is a stark contrast from actual in person customers whose cars are worked on on a daily basis with thousands of perfectly happy customers, then we put the video on youtube and some people seem to try and figure out how or where someone was ripped off. The videos get edited and stuck back together again and he did mention one word incorrectly but to jump to what some of these comments say is completely misundertansing of how an ac works.

[@Eeropolvasti]

I do disagree!!! Low pressure switch problem, cost $20, clean condenser, sure, and flush it, new orifice tube too=), very typical Chevy AC problem!!!And, I am Physical Therapist, last 33 years, do cars on side, you don't have to be Space Engineer to understand this ;o)

[@APDTY]

Eero Laukkanen again, the switch that failed is the switch mounted on the compressor, most models no not have this switch, just some of the GM trucks, it is not the low pressure or high pressure switches used to monitor the high or low side pressures, this switch requires removal of the compressor to change

[@Eeropolvasti]

Disagree, I am talking about low pressure switch!!! Cost $20 =), typical Chevy problem!!!

[@thomastimmermann9895]

Did mine last night. There is no need to remove the grill to remove the condenser. Plastic cover off the top, take out the 2 awkward bolts 10mm that face forward in the upper middle support bracket. Connect a ratchet strap to the hood latch bracket and you can pull it the 1.5” to 2” you need to slip it right out the top

[@petestanton1945]

yabut then it's a great time to replace those old cloudy yellowed plastic headlamps that we keep trying to polish clear 😅

[@mamadrum]

This is a perfect example of excessive gouging. Well done.

[@APDTY]

Again not understanding how pressures work I guess makes you jump to the rip off conclusions. The low side would not get below 40, adding refrigerant is not the answer, As far as compressor replacement, the compressor has to be removed to replace the switch as it is located on the back of the compressor. This compresor is 17 years old and removing it from he vehicle to only replace the switch in the back of it is pretty risky. If that compressor failed shortly after you would have to remove and replace it all over again, which would cost more $$$ as all the same labor and evacuate and recharge would have to be performed all over again.

[@spelunkerd]

This is a very helpful video, not only because I own a similar truck but also because of the entertainment value, to see so many 'experts' weigh in. Clear illustration of the Dunning Kruger effect. Even so, I learned a lot more by going through your thoughtful replies. When the customer is paying for labor and refrigerant, it is even more important to be certain the problem is dealt with the first time, even if it means a little longer parts list. This also applies when the work is done at home, because you don't want to reopen the system or end up adding refrigerant months later because a leak somewhere was not found. This was also helpful because of the curve ball thrown at you. With high pressure on the low side initially, I was thinking of overcharge and poor condenser heat exchange. Then when those high pressures on the low side were seen again early in refilling, I wondered if the compressor wasn't able to achieve a normal pressure gradient across the orifice tube. The low side switch cuts out when pressure reaches 49 psi, so I wondered if this is why it was cutting out, though your remarks about the high pressure cutout switch are noted. Of course poor air flow across the condenser could cause the compressor to fail....

[@si98justme1]

To all the people flaming the bajeezuz out of this guy... Perhaps you can help me get to the bottom of my AC problem in my BMW E38. Since every single company I have taken it to, has done the same sort of thing as the guy here, and obviously he couldn’t correctly diagnose the issue until he threw parts at it, and a re-gas that didn’t even solve the customer complaint, which I have had very similar experience with the shops local to me. I live in another country, so unfortunately I won’t be able to bring it into your shop. Here are the symptoms: AC compressor is cycling every 30 seconds or so. Similar to when there was a low charge in this video. Pressures are normal, even when cycling (ie not dropping too low or high on either side). AC has a full charge, confirmed by the one shop that knew how much it needed. Condenser is clean. No detectable leaks. System has never been run without a charge, so dryer should still be ok(?). AC blows cooler air than outside, but only slightly (+-5 degrees Celsius). AC seems to perform a little better at a very specific ambient temperature (~27.5deg C). All 4 sensors in EVAP core are reading nominal values while compressor is engaged. There is a (pressure?) sensor on the dryer which I suspect to be the issue, but I need confirmation, or an alternative avenue of diagnosis. Sadly I personally don’t have any manifold gauges, nor any means of recovering and recharging the system, so I really don’t want to take it to another crowd of people who are experts at being cookie cutter, side of the road AC techs, unless I absolutely have to. BTW, I know the pressures etc because I don’t let any shop do anything on my car unless I’m personally next to it, due to one too many people who know less than me, and have the skills of a 200lb gorilla. I pay extraordinary attention to whatever they do, or are testing.

[@Justb327]

No leaks, everything looked good, no need to rob the customer, all u had to do was add more refrigerant, not “improve performance “

[@photondebuger45]

Well yeah on an old car I would change the condenser that does wear out since it is aluminum and like 200 plus psi for the better part of ten years? Forgot how old it is there. Tho doing that for years and years and years pretty sure it can do that too much anymore where it’ll not have good high side pressure anymore. The condenser is very important too in an ac system too the liquid refrigerants starts there I’d also check the fan too but usually that’s been replaced because it wears out more often because spinning. lol.

[@Organplayer1947]

It is VERY INSTRUCTIONAL!! Nice job! But....it seems, and I am saying 'SEEMS', you shot-gunned the 'fix'. Indeed, the issue was NOT NECESSARILY the components you replaced (which you did very well). As some cited already, you confessed "The relay switch' (for lack of better words) is a COMMON problem. Therein it is rather logical to assess THAT matter at the outset. Now..it could be there were COMPOUND problems with the A/C...so it is possible some (or many) of the components pulled BEFORE the 'relay switch' look-see would have had to be replaced. It occurs to me: DO THE SIMPLEST FIRST!!! If the rear tire needs air, don't replace the brakes and the rear axle...and shocks/springs...and then see "Oh yeah! The tires often just need to be inflated a bit. You ole come again!" ?DID I SAY THAT??? .............Folks: I am a DIY'er...but thanks to this 'learning tool video' I am all the more aware. And all the more a DIY'er...just smarter!!!

[@adrianzamarripa8552]

Ill trust most mechanics with the duck tape bandage!!!!! Keep up the solid work

[@APDTY]

haha thank you! super glue up some cuts and or duct tape it!

[@guitarguy3221]

Are you supposed to add oil with/before freon after opening the compressor to atmosphere?

[@guitarguy3221]

I learned that many compressors are pre oiled and will come with info saying if it needs any. Pulling a vacuum with gauges & pump after installing is the important thing Add 2 ounces if you replace condensor or evaporator. The whole system has to be topped off w oil if you flush the lines w break fluid etc

[@albertr2212]

my motheres 06; pt cruiser was blowing hot air, i recharged the low and high to 50 and 200 psi respectively , but I think there must be a leak somewhere, that I cant see even with the UV dye and black light, its tripping me out.. Great vid, Im half ways and i reallly enjoy the detailed process. Your a gentlemen and a scholar sir!

[@naruttaanime9471]

Add on Some 80 cents worth of 10 cent tips: Replace every old style Chinese black o-ring exposed with the new green viton o-ring as seen on some of parts in kit. Also replace the $3 leak-prone 20 year old high pressure ball valve port with a modern Schrader valve. Then screw out & replace the $1 twenty year old low pressure valve core as well. Plus the 20 year old $15 low pressure switch is a must when doing a receiver drier/accumulator with the viton only green o-rings. Always call to get another $20 from customer to brush and paint any rusting engine and transmission oil coolers about to cause engine/tranny failure. A happy customer will get us 100 referrals, an unhappy customer will cost us 5000 customers with poor review. The best thing for the customer was not to go to the GM StealerShip as the $2200 bill would have caused a schyster salesman on shop duty to offer him $1800 trade in on another used truck.

[@youngmechanic8016]

Great video!!! When I exchanged condenser filter, condenser oil was leaking I stopped working on it. My car is Honda odyssey 2009, coming 160 thousand miles, but I had never done any job related to AC system. How can I change condenser filter with recharging system? Thank you in advance!!!

[@markbelden6919]

Wash the condenser with water from your hose, similarly to washing your coils out on you home ac, charging can be done with a "auto parts store" refrigerant and gauge kit, always follow instructions on the can

[@APDTY]

so we would start with asking why the filter is being replaced. It is not really a replacement item unless an issue exists. If an issue exists then the system should be tested and inspected with gauges while running. These vehicles use a parallel flow condenser and many times the condenser needs to be replaced, if it is replaced, it also usually includes that filter. The oil in the condenser would normally be evacuated at the very beginning before opening the system. So assuming a diagnosis was done and you need to replace the filter, here is the normal steps: 1. Evacaute the system. - this removes the refrigerant and most of the oil 2. Replace the necessary parts 9knwon after diagnosing) 3. Replace the expansion valve and accumulator (These parts are always replaced when an ac system is opened. Also all new compressor warranties require replacing these parts) 4. Inspect the parts removed and look for any issues 5. Based on the inspection and diagnosis, a system flush maybe required 6. After replacing all parts, vacuum the system down to remove any non-condensibles and verify no leaks 7. Recharge the system and install the proper amount of oil, depending on how you do the work, most shops have equipment to add oil with the refrigerant Much of this again is based on the original diagnosis and then paying close attention to the components and oil removed.

[@Fldavestone]

Ahhh the old duct tape bandaid been there many times LOL

[@francarcia3962]

This is a good method of running up a bill. Replace the condenser when it isn't the problem. Then find the problem. Low pressure switch is a no brainer fix that should have been replaced with the condenser. 190K the compressor is toast anyway.

[@APDTY]

Fran Carcia and again like some of the other negative comments, u really do not understand how an ac system works if you think we replaced the condenser for no reason

[@ClassicJukeboxBand]

Actually, an orifice tube is associated with accumulator A/C's not receiver dryer A/C's.

[@mainstreetcamden]

Your statement doesn't make any sense.

[@MrSarge99]

Good video. Here in liberal Calif they won't let me buy R 134, but I can buy AC Pro. Is that stuff any good?

[@foghornleghorn4197]

Learned more from the comments. Like "why the hell did you replace the condenser, the accumulator, & the orifice tube, then find out it's a switch grounding issue?" And then say, "this grounding problem is pretty common with Chevys..."

[@APDTY]

Very simple, the initial pressure test showed the low side would not drop below 40psi, the system cycling did not show up until after we replaced the parts and had a full charge of refrigerant and had the system cycling the heat out as it should. The ac condenser was very clogged and that is what pushed the low side pressure up, fixing that was first. Also keep in mind this vehicle is 17 years old and has 190,000 miles on it. Anytime you open the system, you have to replace the accumulator and orifice tube. So based on the initial pressure test, something was wrong with the system as it was, meaning it would not perform properly indicating something was wrong with one or more of those parts.

[@foghornleghorn4197]

Thank you for your polite reply to my not-so-polite comment. I'm trying to get AC back in my 2003 Yukon XL with 180,000 miles & am tired of the shop making temporary fixes that don't last two months. Your video taught me how to remove the orifice tube, the condenser, clean / brush the radiator, & replace the accumulator / dryer.

[@CarlosSanchez-ff9yo]

Hi, my name is Carlos Sanchez. Do I have a question? that means recovery and evacuation talking about the system of. air conditioning ?

[@APDTY]

I am sorry please repeat the question as I did not understand.

[@04DynaGlyde]

Can you blow the condenser out with an air nozzle or blow-up where the hoses connect?

[@APDTY]

so this method is getting less and less available as most new vehicles or replacement condensers are now parallel flow vs serpentine flow, this new flow style cannot be flushed as you cannot reach all the way through like in the old days. So to answer, it really depends on the vehicle and the replacement part. A system flush is essentially what you are referring to and that can still be done on the accumulator and this particular truck's original condenser could be flushed that way.

[@ronniehdable]

Shouldn't you clean the lines?

[@jamesledesma]

Did you have to empty your AC from freon first before disassembling the lines to the condenser? I have a hole in mine that's allowing my freon to escape would I still have to release any pressure before I disassemble any of the lines?

[@itstimetounlearn]

How big is the hole..lol..?.I would discharge system completely before removing any line regardless of leaks.

[@mainstreetcamden]

Freon is a copyrighted brand name of refrigerant made by Dupont. Unless you are actually using Dupont Freon, it's just refrigerant. If you'd been trained properly, you would know that. You said never charge on the high side. Wrong! That's the easiest way to weigh in liquid refrigerant to the high side with the compressor off.

[@fr150046]

Great video 🎉🎉

[@Shane-The-Pain]

As a noob, how much time does a procedure like this normally take? Is this something I can do in a few hours or should I clear my weekend?

[@JeremyRemele]

Took me and my mechanic bud 5 hours to do it properly. Most of your time will be eaten up removing the compressor and vacuuming the system down. I'd get up early with some coffee and clear out most of a day, shouldn't take more than that. Pretty straightforward and simple to perform the entire procedure. You'll need to remove the fan shroud, fan & lower shroud. Front grill & air cleaner box/intake pipe so you have enough room to work comfortably to remove the compressor. Compressor is 4 bolts, easy to get too, everything else is super easy to get to. Don't re-use any parts, get all new gear. Good luck!

[@APDTY]

3-6 hours including 1-2 hours of evacuating or vacuuming down the system, A professional in a shop that does this daily can obviously do it on the lower end but also little things like a rusted or stripped bolt can add a ton of time.

[@gearheadaddict7183]

Hell yeah

[@bradlylagace6091]

Can I bring my truck to you and replace mine ?

[@Lovetolivetruely]

I'm catching hell.... The outlet at the bottom of the condensor keeps blowing. I get everything hooked up but can't draw a vacuum because of that area.

[@APDTY]

Sorry man but it sounds like you need a condenser

[@Lovetolivetruely]

@@APDTY Thanks. I managed to get it together. Now I have cold AC.....lol

[@Justb327]

Perfect example of gouging the customer

[@dutch971]

The last three minutes of the video look like "we messed up on our diagnosis a little, at the customers expense, and now we need more money, to do it again, but we are pretty sure we found the problem this time.' The video is pretty thorough until this point. Fix the truck in it's entirety. Why'd you put radiator in the title if you didn't do anything to the radiator but hose it off and run a brush down it once.

[@rethompson9620]

Thanks for electoral diagnosis

[@danielmoriarty751]

I’m a little curious if you do this for a living how can you possibly not check the low pressure switch before replacing all the shit you changed? Your inexperience and lack of knowledge on how an AC system works just cost your customer a shit ton of money. You don’t even have an extractor to remove the refrigerant so you have to take it to another shop you should not be doing AC work you have no fucking idea what you’re doing. Nor did you even fix the problem he brought it in for.

[@jamesm568]

I don't need to be an expert to know that if there is not a proven problem with the condenser you don't replace it.

[@APDTY]

The pressures show the condenser is not removing the heat as it is suppose to. If you watch the video and see the condenser be removed at 11minutes, you can see where about 40% of it is clogged with debris, He explains that the air passing through the condenser cannot actually pass through due to the clogging. So the condenser was not leaking, but being clogged prevents it from doing its main job. We could not go any further without solving this issue which required removal and inspection. Since the truck is 17 years old and almost 200k miles, it is not wise to just clean it and re-install, replacement is the best option.

[@jamesm568]

Auto Parts Direct To You Ahhhhhh! I have a 97 GMC Sierra with the original AC compressor that finally went a few days ago, so I replace the dryer, orifice, and the compressor as I took the condenser to a shop and have some sort of pulsating flush done on it.

[@banno6938]

apdty. Here I thought you were speaking of the condenser being plugged on the inside when in reality he/you were just too damn lazy to clean off the exterior ! I suggest you boys stick to repairing bicycle tires, with stop leak !

[@APDTY]

ok thanks for the wonderful comment, we spent 30-40 minutes cleaning out the fur that was stuck in the radiator, this fur debris could not have been found unless the condenser was removed and the reason the condenser was removed was to find out if it had a restriction internally as that is what the gauges suggested, Also this was at another shop that could not figure out that same symptom, so we went the extra mile and removed the condenser and that is when we found that debris that was suppressing teh ability of the condenser to remove the heat which is why the gauges shoed a high low pressure side, Its the same symptom. Also it was the customers choice to replace the condenser which AGAIN had to be removed to find that debris, you can see this at about 10:55,

[@banno6938]

Looks like about 20% of the RADIATOR had " fur "Not the condenser so again , you FAIL !

[@jackogez329]

so I have a 2001 Silverado , the ac works for sometimes days , sometimes hours , it seems when I'm on the highway it works good but in town it usually stops working , maybe it will come back o. Maybe not , then next Time I drive it it works again, I was hoping orifice tube , but I may be wrong any help would be great

[@brianodom797]

first thing would be hooking up gauges to insure the system is correctly charged. the gauges will also help you diagnose if its a restriction or orifice tube issue. The electrical side of the system would be the next place to look.

[@1pcmedic]

I had the same problem, just buy a new low pressure switch for 21.00 at autozone and put it on and you will be back in business. To check to see if its the low pressure switch pull the connector off and use a wire to jump it. My compressor came on immediately. I was pulling my hair out because if I started the tahoe and left the hood open the A/C would stay on but when I closed the hood the heat buildup caused the switch to open not because of low pressure mechanically but because of heat electronically. This was a cheap and easy fix. took about 10 minutes. I am going to surgically cut apart the low pressure switch and see if I can see exactly what the problem was.....solder joint?????

[@APDTY]

you are in luck if it is the low pressure switch as the high pressure switch is located on the back of the AC compressor and you have to remove the compressor to replace that switch which we had to do in the next video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGrdkoScm92jl5o

[@larrygonz932]

you need to pull the engine so you can get at the right nuts and bolts then remove the windsheild so as not to break it while pulling out the dash to get to the mixing door if it looks like it swings then put back dash and windsheild.. keep motor out while removeng all electrical wires that might tick you off when working on this thing dont forget the porpis tube..

[@jorgenunez1825]

Stop saying freon, it's called refrigerant freon is r12 r22 Freon.

[@APDTY]

yeah this is what happens when you were original trained in the 1990's and certain terms stick in the brain.

[@renaldoparris]

Cut and dry, your compressor is defective.. I could tell from 2mins into the video... gauges never lie...

[@APDTY]

Akhi Parris u sure u r watching the correct video? the compressor itself was working fine

[@zeakhiparris9237]

Auto Parts Direct To You The original problem with this entire repair is the compressor clutch is worn or the compressor valve inside the compressor itself is defective.. the condenser was fine. The orifice was fine.. however yes, IF you look at your gauges in the beginning, the system is NOT low on Refrigerant. The valve inside the compressor is simply weak or clutch is bad and worn.. so all this NONSENSE about air flow on condenser is foolishness.. replace the compressor, replace the orifice and boom, job done... PS. Whenever your recharging your system with your little refrigerant bottle, turn your charging-hoses around. The low loss fitting on the end hose will need release pressure because the valve inside the hose is not seated. In that way you can release your "mixed" air with refrigerant to get the hose with pure refrigerant.. i could of tell you was confused when you said, "um maybe" Anyway ways, long story short, the job was mis diagnosed and the repair only needed a compressor, nothing to do with no high pressure switch, point blank. And with that compressor replacement, you needed to replace the accumulator and orifice (recommended). But you went ahead and did that WITHOUT KNOWING the Compressor was defective...

[@APDTY]

Zeakhi Parris no no and no, did u see the condenser severely clogged up and not releasing the heat?? You are basically saying the compressor is defective internally but what is actually happening is the wrong input is going into the compressor, you cannot have too high of pressure in the low side (from too much heat buildup which raises the low side pressure) or else the compressor will do exactly that, the blow out switch on the back of the compressor was tested separately and was failed

[@Gordon-v8m]

Boooooo!👎🏽

[@KFLson]

As a rookie of 2 years....jk idk I just wanna learn 😂

[@desertmulehunter]

Good video! The comments surprise me tho. When did we become a people who cannot have a civil dialogue w/o becoming verbally abusive? Very immature comments.

[@APDTY]

Thanks so much for watching and commenting, we appreciate it.

[@MrBb716]

I agree. Most real refrigeration service mechanics are better than that, or at least they used to be.

[@macheteslice]

We never have become those people you just described. It's those that are misinformed with knowledge of "Respect", that conduct themselves at that lower level.

[@Anotherdaynparadise]

What was wrong with the condenser? Cant you clean all the dust and debris off the fins and restore its function just fine?

[@speedfrk73z]

Great video! But I have one more thing to add here. I have a 2003 Silverado and was experiencing the same issue. My truck had 175K miles on it. I checked everything and it was ok. Here is the real fix. Remove the bolt on the compressor clutch and pull off the hub. Inside the hub remove the washers that provide gap to the clutch surface. Reinstall the hub, and bolt. The A/C will blow cold without stopping after 10 minutes. The issue is the clutch gap is too large and can no longer grip. This fix will give you another 100K of service before clutch replacement. Do this first before replacing all those parts like the video suggests. Shoot for the easy fix first.

[@bensisco1631]

Hey man, thanks for the tip! Wondering if you think this could be done with the AC compressor still attached to the engine? Or did you need to pull the compressor off?

[@speedfrk73z]

@@bensisco1631 Absolutely can be done on the vehicle. It’s very easy to do. I did it less than a half hour.

[@ericaquevedo86]

Just took your advice and removed the gap washer and works like a charm. Cold air for my entertainment 40 min drive.. Hopefully this hack with give me more life out if this system. Thank you for the tip. Saved me a lot of $$$$ amd headache.

[@chrisgeorge3529]

With the price of online parts.... just change it all. That’s what I’m doing. But I’m also doing it myself.... regardless good information.

[@JSTX9216]

Yeah there’s a lot of idiots on KZbin that don’t know what they’re talking about. I mainly came here to tackle replacing the condenser on this type of truck. This video is the best one that shows that. There’s guys replacing condensers on 2014 trucks and it doesn’t seem the same as this. Either way learning stuff and also changing the whole system.

[@shawnv1463]

System could have been topped off and test system..now customer has paid for an evac.. And refill... and system will need another evac and charge.. Test system first then replace needed parts.. The condenser could have been cleaned out ..

[@APDTY]

shawn V no you don’t top off a system that has too high of high side pressure, that’s just adding more stress to an already stressed compressor.

[@cire80]

@@danielmoriarty751 question, what causes the rubber damper from the clutch plate to fail or splatter all over the surrounding area, denso style compressor, first one failed this way and the replacement failed the same way.

[@markbelden6919]

Best way is to evacuate and weigh in the charge,

[@MrBb716]

I disagree with cleaning out the inside of an automotive condenser. Have you actually seen how small the I.D. of those condenser tubes are? Cut one open some time and check it out. If they are plugged up that flush is not going to pass through. To me a condensers would be a good clean inexpensive way to repair as opposed to the labor and expense of trying to flush.

[@oldschool0072]

Yep

[@henrytoledo4103]

Im replacing the exact same things on my sierra 1999. The system worked grest up till a year when i hit a low flying Mallard, yeah a duck. Figured since i needed a new condensor and i was doing it myself i relace everything and not worry for snother ten years. Bought the truck new and will never fet rid of it

[@thomaswhitten2537]

Sorry but this fellow completely missed the diagnosis of the problem. He replaced a bunch of parts that probably did not need to be replaced costing the customer several hundred dollars without warrant. He should be embarrassed to have this video showing his screw up at the customers expense.

[@APDTY]

Thomas Whitten so Thomas can you explain exactly what he Mis-diagnosed?

[@thomaswhitten2537]

@@APDTY Well, you can get smart with me all you want but this fellow jumped in and started replacing parts without having a full understanding of what was going on. He presumed a clog in the system. Ok. But that doesn't mean simply replace everything on the outside of system and claim victory. Which victory was not what happened. He didn't even check for leaks causing low pressure. Scharder valves are a known weak spot on chevy's, leaking and causing low pressure. So someone in that shop had to tell the customer, "We did $500 worth of work on you truck, replaced everything and it did not fix the problem. A $2 part did fix the problem and it shouldn't have cost more than $50 with labor." That gives the shop and mechanic a bad reputation. Your boy did not even add freon correctly. But I will give him this much: he did a good job on replacing the parts and did not break anything or have any leaks. That means he needs a little more training on diagnosis. You get him that training and he'll probably be one of the best A/C techs in the area. Find a community college in the area that teaches auto mechanics, enroll him for night classes and in a couple of years, he will be the best. Give him a break with this career.

[@APDTY]

Thomas Whitten no not getting smart, just trying to find out how u got to your conclusion that we replaced unnecessary parts, and you did not explain it, I’ll help you start the process of actually diagnosing this vehicle, let’s start at the beginning, as shown and explained in the video with the pressure gauges, the ac condenser was not releasing the heat, so that must be fixed first, before i type anymore, r u following so far? Also this technician and myself are ASE master certified automotive techs for over 20years and the tech in this video was factory trained through Ford for several years, and we live in florida and have been fixing AC for close to 20 years with hundreds of very happy customers

[@thomaswhitten2537]

@@APDTY I don't need for you to tell me anything. The video speaks for itself. You're the one who cost the customer money. Replacing parts based solely on a pressure gauge is not a solution. You didn't test any of the old parts for blockage or pressure nor did you test the simplest, most common failures of the system. You're credentials are meaningless to me as mine are to you. Train your man. It's that simple. You'll see greater revenue if you get him trained.

[@APDTY]

Thomas Whitten so you make a claim but can’t back it up, what did we misdiagnose?? What parts did we install that were not needed?? You think we missed a leaking Schrader valve?! Lol,

[@ronniehdable]

I replaced my entire ac system in my 2002 Silverado. It wound up being both connectors to the hi and low pressure switch. I wish their was a follow up on the final repair.thank you're very knowledgeable.

[@CBurns862]

I think you probably mushroomed it when you went the wrong way first and tightened it... Lol

[@ehexzs10]

Condenser slides out to the left. No need to remove head light on right of front trapezoid/triangular brace

[@banno6938]

You just changed a perfectly good orifice tube , receiver drier & Condenser for NO reason other than a misdiagnosis ! & a low pressure switch is around $15 for that truck & easily accessible on the Drier vs $200+ for a "NEW" compressor . & BTW. You need a step stool to stand on .

[@APDTY]

wrong, the initial pressures showed the a problem with the condenser not releasing the heat, this had to be fixed first and once the condenser was removed, the culprit was the debris stuck between the radiator a condenser. Also the switch that was bad is the high pressure cut out switch mounted to the back of the compressor. This is not the simple low and high running pressure switches that you are thinking of. This switch required compressor reoval to replace it. The customer decided to install a new compressor that came with a new switch, the truck is 100% fixed and ice cold still.

[@d46512]

@@APDTY Oh. In the video you said it was the LP switch, which would have been easy to change on the accumulator.

[@JSTX9216]

Good video showing how to deal with the condenser in this specific design Chevy. I see there’s other guys doing newer ones but I need this year model to get an AC system going. Well done and thank you for explaining stuff.

[@al9094]

Auto parts direct the problem is the truck is old yes but to through parts at it and still not fixed. that's the problem a good tech .can tell you it had free on just by the gauges.The condenser could have been cleaned on the truck.and if that made no change to gauges. Then the office gets replaced and inspected . as the vacuum removes old free on its weight is noted and can tell how low the system is of isn't . And the electronic system then get checked .at this point my customer would be told the switch is bad. And it is recommended the compressor and dryer need replaced .he'll just run a water hose on condenser can tell if it's dirty . Parts changers are not mechanics.this video is parts changing sry . If you need a plac . For this lesson I'll send you one 49.95

[@APDTY]

Not sure if you actually watched the video but we diagnosed the low refrigerant by looking at the gauges which we explain clearly. We knew that the heat was not leaving the condenser by looking at the gauges. Also if you have ever worked on one of these, you would know there is no way to clean that fur/dirt buildup with the condenser in the vehicle, the condenser must be removed to properly clean all that dirt and mud out of the radiator fins, see 10:50 mark to see the buildup and explanation, You also did not get to see the extra time spent cleaning out the radiator but it was a good chunk of time and if we were pushing parts then we would have pushed replacing the radiator. Only after we fixed the heat exchange problem by replacing the condenser did we get to the chance of a full charge and watch the pressures cycle, then we found the pressure switch on the back of the compressor. The pressure switch issue did not expose itself until a full charge was possible. It is not appropriate to fully charge a system that is not having the heat removed from it as the low side pressures are too high.

[@basshnter1997]

The only thing I don't see mentioned here is the crap factory high side Schrader valve that is prone to leak.

[@HDHD-yv9np]

Man, that last statement says it all (Right now we are done with this repair). poor customer.

[@zaysimmons]

I been through this myself after changing my whole ac system it was an $8.00 part that I needed to make it work

[@christinedare7264]

That is why you recharge a low system and not throw parts at it till you know why it is cutting out... But he sells high dollar parts and not the pressure switch.

[@micahwatson9017]

Original owner of an 02 GMC Sierra with 290,000 miles on it. I turned the air conditioner on when I drove it off the lot 20 years ago and have never turned it off since then. All original parts and never serviced or recharged...still blowing cold! Wondering how long a system should last?

[@balconio1172]

LOL! I'm not a mechanic but I fixed my 04 avalanche with 15 minutes of googling and a $30 trip to Amazon for a low pressure switch. Installation was 2 minutes. This video is still a good walkthrough on a bunch of work I might someday need though.

[@APDTY]

well you got nice and lucky, the switch this vehicle needed is the high pressure blow out switch that is mounted on the back of the compressor, it requires removal of the compressor to change it, the problem was not the simple high or low system running pressure switches. We ended up replacing the compressor with a brand new one and new switch and the truck is still ice cold in our Florida heat that is pretty much all year long.

[@stevechapa2871]

I have the same problem with the AC blowing cold air every time I start the truck but after 10 minutes or so it blows warm air. For someone who may not be able to afford to change everything out is there any advice on what to look for or replace? I've replaced the clutch cycle switch but that was not it, looking for other options I might be able to tackle myself. Thanks.

[@APDTY]

Looking at the gauges while it is running and watching as the performance decreases will help put you on the right track on what to fix or where to start, also go back and make sure the basics like the cooling fan is working and the radiator and engine coolant is all working properly, The radiator and condenser both need to have the heat removed from them efficiently for the ac to stay cold. We have several of these trucks that the condenser rotted out and just replacing that significantly helped the ac performance, Working on a budget we would strongly suggest let a professional shop figure out the problem so you don't waste any time or money replacing parts not needed. They will usually charge an inspection fee and some of the chain store places like the tires stores sometimes do free ac checks, now that is usually a. very basic test like just putting gauges on but it is essential information to find the right road to go down.

[@1615paco]

Thank you for you video , I replace on my Chevy suburban 2002 after 270,000 miles the compressor died

[@missiletm]

All that work and still have the same problem? Hummmm. Wonder how much that cost?

[@jw11432]

When I use one of those black rubber/aluminum seals on the top connection of my condenser, it fails spectacularly. You can literally see the gap at the top like it doesn't actually fit.

[@radstyle]

For that year Chevy, would it be safe to say 2 oz of PAG 46 oil in the New Accumulator, 2 oz more in a new condenser and 2 oz more in an empty compressor? I'm guessing 2 oz are in the Evaporator and hoses to equate out to 8 oz in total for the entire unit. I know to much oil or to little oil will cause all kinds of issues and compromise the longevity of the compressor shelf life. No post found on the process to adequate oil and what happens if to much or not enough is added.

[@joed1244]

Would a clog in the system make it not possible to pull a strong vacuum? Initially i got 29hg . I had to redo the vacuum and now it only gets to 9hg. ( i had to start over because as i was changing the system , my low gauge went extremely high out if the blue..no, it wasnt over charged..still needed another can yet....so i started from scratch..let the gas out and pulled a new vacuum and now it wont go past 9 hg after muktiple attempts)

[@markkowalski3575]

I noticed you didn't check the cabin filter before you check your charge cabin filters usually plugged causing evaporator not to get enough air crossed it then you check your charge after you got a nice clean filter clean condenser and all that happy stuff

[@markbelden6919]

I came here to see the procedure to remove the condenser. I do industrial and commercial hvac, I DID learn a few things, keep up the good work

[@APDTY]

thank you for watching and commenting, we appreciate it!!

[@MrBb716]

Mark, Automotive is kind of a different animal from industrial/commercial. I'm here fro the same thing.

[@sean.g4516]

@@APDTY link for the condenser?

[@petestanton1945]

But as to the intermittancy, meaning works but craps out when it's hot, another channel showed that the compressor clutch gets worn out w an "air gap" to the pully that's out of range. He's in the Canadian outback so he rebuilds it w a dif shim. We would just replace w new Chinese compressor.

[@alfries9736]

Great video, helped me out to understand the basics of A.C. systems and even the electronic diagnostics that followed at the end of the video, my 2009 Silverado just quit on me and I saw the ac fluid just shoot out of the top left side of the cooler on the front of the truck.! Got an estimate of 700 bucks to fix it and it does seem pretty fair, thought about doing the rough work myself and let them vacume and recharge it for 160.

[@KGRICK1]

replacing parts just because they are old, then not changing the low pressure switch because you would have to eat the freon cost and labor time used to fill is shit service, guys like you give good mechanics a bad name.

[@provocativethoughts3819]

Now I realize a little knowledge is dangerous and some times it’s not safe watching some of these fucking air heads doing ac work. Now if he had taken a better systemic approach to diagnosing the problem he wouldn’t went to hell and back

[@Trident_Euclid]

On the SUV's with rear ac. Should I turn the ac on both front and rear for applying vacuum since the rear unit is using TXV Instead of orifice tube?

[@danielmoriarty751]

If you were going to go through all that effort you could have at least change the oil in the Compressor pump. You replaced a condenser that didn’t need to be replaced and then don’t bother to change the pump oil great job

[@APDTY]

change the pump oil?? lol

[@brendamccarty2716]

I have a 2004 chevy silverado the right side vents blow out cold and the left blows out hot when ac is on.whats the problem?

[@johnnyhoward1444]

The old school throw parts at it. How about save the customer some money by determining the exact problem and replacing that.

[@ddallast2]

Had my high pressure switch on my 2000 Chevy tahoe break off m replaced it and now it is blowing hot air. I recharged the system, compressor is still engaging I'm being told it could have clogged lines or possibly bad wiring could you give me your opinion

[@APDTY]

its very hard to give an opinion without seeing more details. Also this truck has 2 high pressure switches, the one on the back of the compressor is a high pressure blowout prevention switch and it is next to a burst disc, if the burst disc blows, then that means the system pressure is too high. That would need to be diagnosed and is likely a clog somewhere. SO we would love to point you in the right direction but need more data to know what is wrong.

[@Guffy5150]

Great video! Just walked me through all of these parts as well as a new compressor on our 2001 Chevy 2500 HD utility truck with 6.0 litre. My hands just got back from the field and could not stop grinning knowing the A/C was working in their truck again. They said they would buy beer if your ever in our neck of the woods! :)

[@aksavage7443]

I just put a new compressor on and the Ac blows cold driving but during idle it will shut off and then cut back on. I can’t wait in line to order food because it gets hot. Installed ac but not the orfice tube or the large tube next to it but I do have them.

[@JuanTorres-m8y]

Why not check the electrical 1st ???😮 then pull a vacuum and recharge

[@johnstevens1748]

Thanks for this video! I've got a 01 Yukon xl that is only blowing warm/hot air. Compressor is kicking on and haven't had a proper pressure test yet, but, I do have a question regarding your processes in this video. You described the problem described by the customer, but, didn't run the vehicle and confirm it was actually happening until after changing parts. My ignorant brain thinks that, if you had, you would've seen the compressor stop working, and could've begun electrical testing prior to evacuating the system and following the steps you did. I'm sure I'm completely missing something but. I'm not sure what. If you have a moment, I'd love some insight before I get into trying to fix mine. :) Thanks again and have a great one!!!

[@macheteslice]

Very professional

[@FinsleysCustomCarAudio]

If I removed the condenser since I don’t use it anyway, will my truck run cooler since I’ll have more air flow across the radiator?

[@APDTY]

so yeah in theory you would be removing an obstruction to airflow through the radiator so sounds like it would work. The real world results would hopefully match that theory but you really never know until you do it and see the results.

[@worldwidesports4k]

Hello I have a question for anyone. I have a 98 f 150 the a/c won't get cold when I put freon. three cans and still hot. also I had the condenser check and it's good. I also changed the orfice tube. still hot. also I noticed when I put the first can the gauge said 100 psi what could be wrong with my a/c. I'm just a shade tree mechanic I don't know that much about a/c.

[@APDTY]

big D so we would need to see the system running pressures on both sides to help, first off how do you know you need refrigerant? Next you are hopefully charging the system in the low side which should have a pressure less then half of that, if it is the high side pressure then it should be higher then that, so much more info is needed, the basics are is the compressor even coming on, if so what are the pressure, is the cooling fans coming on, do any engine cooling or radiator issues exist

[@worldwidesports4k]

@@APDTY thanks for the reply. it was the compressor. thank you sir I fix it.

[@walterkersting1362]

Does depressing the schrader valve evacuate the system?

[@APDTY]

no and in most places that is illegal, you are just opening the system and letting out refrigerant, the refrigerant should be recycled and used back in your vehicle or someone else's and not vented to the atmosphere. Also how will you ever pull the system into a vacuum which is required to recharge the system?

[@allen4779]

i have a question i hope someone can help i have a old 1986 chevy suburban and i have been trying to get the damn ac to work i have paid a shop over a 1g to get it to work i think as they gust can't get it right it is 134 i compressor never stops running when the ac is on and it never gets cold maybe like 75 maybe 70 anyone have any real input on what i should be looking for thank you

[@APDTY]

hard to diagnose over the phone or with text, we would need to see system running pressures and a good visual inspection to have any clue about what is happening, that model year vehicle is a simple system really, some of the basics to verify is make sure the compressor is coming on, make sure the cooling fan is coming on, this is the radiator cooling fan, you probably have a fan clutch on that year so verify the clutch engages when it is suppose to which is when the thermostat opens. Make sure the compressor clutch engages, Really if you paid a shop that much money, they should finish fixing it, all the parts for that truck are not too expensive and something simple is probably being missed.

[@banno6938]

Allen , re " what i should be looking for " A competent mechanic is what you should be looking for . & Do not pay unless they can show you results !

[@joeluisramirez]

I forgot ,,back in 87 I worked for a dealership in south tx, and I was fresh out of school ,I tried wearing gloves AND YOU SHOULD HAVE SEEN THE MECHANICS laughing there asses off

[@banno6938]

Jose. Some people are not professional & don't know how or care to stay clean . Actually they're just plain stupid. Would you want some greasy mofo getting grease all over you vehicle ?

[@shawnglover5768]

I've been working on cars over 20 years and I still wear gloves. Who wants chewed fucked up hands with years of oil embedded in them??

[@robertv8851]

Refrigerant not freon it's only a brand name.

[@APDTY]

yes you are correct, years of calling it freon sometimes sticks

[@rickytrevino8281]

You said 190k miles like it was alot lmao, mines at 270

[@APDTY]

Ballsweat McGee ok yeah this one was just getting broken in then😂

[@rickytrevino8281]

@@APDTY By the way are the ac condenser ports supposed to be hot on both the top and bottom inlet? Mines hot only on one side so I think the condensers clogged but I wanted to make sure and ask someone with a normal working condenser Im about to order the part

[@rickytrevino8281]

@@APDTY Like where you say the hot and cold ports are on either side of the orifice, the cold side is really cold but the hot side is not even warm its just ambient temperature

[@mrlarrybobjr]

Me too, and my a/c still works lol

[@rickytrevino8281]

@@mrlarrybobjr Then why're you on this video? Lmao try again

[@robertnewman9951]

Around 32:00 in, you begin explaining how the LOW pressure switch is the problem. From earlier comments, and because you talk about possibly replacing the compressor near the end of the video , I think you meant to say HIGH pressure switch in the video, not LOW. The low pressure switch would be easily removed from the accumulator and replaced if that was the culprit. Are the high and low pressure switches wired in series to ground? A low cost option for the customer is simply bypassing the high pressure switch. Though called a "safety" switch, It actually exists simply to protect against refrigerant discharge to the atmosphere from a component failure. Since this compressor is near end of life, there's not much to lose; it could get along fine without that switch as long as you took care not to overcharge the system.

[@APDTY]

Yes that is all correct, the problem was intermittent and this vehicle really had 2 problems, the stuff stuck between the radiator and condenser not letting the heat release from the condenser, and then the high pressure blow out switch which is mounted on the back of compressor, we did end up replacing the compressor and it came with a new pressure switch and we used an OEM compressor since the first once lasted over 17 years. He did say low pressure and never really sad cut out switch or also called blow out switch.

[@itssyrus8128]

What is the part number for the high side schrader valve .its a one time use thing :(

[@APDTY]

as far as part numbers go, it is best to look up your exact model, the early 2000 model GM trucks have numerous different compressor options and even though most of the Schrader valves are the same, we don't want to put a wrong part number up. the Schrader valves do usually last a long time and I think they are still original and working fine on this truck.

[@cubiculez]

I'm agreeing with Anthony Mayes --- If you've gone that far with this, why not spend another $370 and replace the compressor along with the rest of the parts including the hoses. From the customer's point of view, I can see trying to save money, but after the customer spends $600-$800 without the compressor or hose replacement, I'd bet Lunch in 2-4 months he's going to be back in the shop mad at the mechanic after the compressor fails and sends metal filings all over the inside of the system resulting in having to replace everything again OR...living without AC. Regardless of the history of these, virtually every GM AC System I've ever owned that had >140K miles on it or was more than 10 years old, we've needed to replace EVERYTHING - Condenser, Compressor, Expansion Valve, Dryer, AND Hoses. Yes it costs more, but then you only do it once and the customer is a happy (but slightly poorer) camper. In my own opinion, this tech should not have even taken on the job if he wasn't going to do everything. It's sort of Pennywise and Pound foolish.

[@R0CK070]

2003 Suburban 5.3 4x4 Pepboys nightmare A/C... In 6 days time there , 3 parts later, 3 times released to me, and Still no air. In dispute now with them. After going to local shop as they stopped with pressure drop. And they put a super stop leak in. That since it blows cool in front and very cold in rear. I decided to shoot it with 2 r134 cans today. Test road it and still holding solid 50 psi on low. Yet, still front cold cool and rear very cold. Low is ice cold and high hot as it should be. I'm leaning towards this orifice tube replacement 🤔. *** Pep Boys changed. Clutch fan, low and high switch, and a hose to compressor. Any thoughts with least pain here. Appreciate listening to my stupidity going to PepBoys against my better judgement. Great professional video overall 👌. As I'm just at 205k on miles here...

[@albertr2212]

OH AND p.s. : ALl this is being performed with the freon completely vacuumed out correct??

[@Joshua-od9my]

That is correct. If all the freon hasn't already leaked out, then you should take it to a shop to have it removed. It is not good for the atmosphere.

[@timowen2307]

Joshua or you make Al Gore cry. Lol.

[@APDTY]

@@timowen2307 well actually when you evacuate refrigerant, you store it and re-use it in the same vehicle or another, if you dont want to recycle your refrigerant and if you like paying extra for refrigerant and don't care about the air that we humans all need to breath, then go ahead and release it, it is illegal and comes with a heavy fine and if you are a shop, well you won't be in business very long.

[@APDTY]

@Womb Raider yeah that is all bad and is certainly shade tree mechanic stuff, why not capture and re-use it? You do know you are a human being and require oxygen to breath in order to live right??

[@rmendes2mendes915]

To me it looks like you were replacing parts that didn’t need replaced, did you check the temperatures between the pump and through the condenser? If the temperatures were dropping sufficiently why does the condenser need to be replaced ?. Didn’t look like anything wrong with the orifice, Did you check the clutch fan also the blend door actuator can be malfunctioning and not closing the door all the way to the heating side.

[@xpelon209x]

What type of pag oil did you use?

[@franciscor3185]

So bad ground was the problem? Poor guy buy all the system and pay you for labor. Wow way to do your check up, 1000 plus dlls in and still the same.

[@APDTY]

Francisco R no no no, again the condenser could not remove the heat because it was packed with debris, that had to be fixed first, then you can actually monitor the performance of the ac system, then the compressor had to be replaced because the high pressure blow out valve on the back was bad.

[@banno6938]

1st sign that the condenser was not as you said packed was a/the clean orifice tube. Guess you didn't watch the video !

[@APDTY]

@@banno6938 smh, no not clogged internally, the condenser had mud stuck in it on the outside between the radiator and condenser, air must flow through the condenser and radiator to remove the heat, so yes we watched the video after we were in the video, lol, the ac condenser being clogged externally prevented it from working and that must be fixed before you do anything else.

[@rethompson9620]

I recently had to change a complete system. Customer said it was the 3rd compressor. I asked if the system had been flushed. He said no. System worked for about 10 minutes on the road then he brought it back. I suspicion it is oils locked. Can I just change the drier and flush the lines or do I need to drain the compressor also? Thanks for the help.

[@contendingforthefaith9897]

An AC unit that has not been switched on, should read about 100-110 psi , for a full charge, when switched on, the psi should drop to around 35-42-45 psi. That would be normal pressure, if it ain't cooling in the 50s low 60s , but 70s, I would think about changing out the AC compressor, etc. Maybe just a simple vac down, and then shoot up the system up with a little pag oil, and freon.

[@exbballfan]

You dont call the job done until its fixed. You changed parts but didnt change the compressor. That is the most likely problem on a old system. You should have changed everything alone with the low pressure switch.

[@rickaustin5065]

You should have started with the low pressure switch. Not good troubleshooting. $8 part would have fixed it. instead he replaced $200 worth of parts to find that the $8 part would have fixed.

[@dwayne2031]

If my car required 24oz of refrigerant and 3oz pag oil. Would that be 27oz total or do i only put 21oz of refrigerant and 3oz oil. Also, I have changed the condesor. By changing the condendor, did i lose all of the oil in the compressor? Do i need to add pag oil after changing the condensor?

[@jth1699]

I agree - this guy dont have a clue - has any body ever seen a system that has a running good compressor that is low on freon with a high suction pressure??? My guess is that the system was overcharged... I had one come in the shop today. I let out about most of a can and all was good ... the system had 134A with die in it so I know somebody had added a can... these kind of guys make work for the rest of us.

[@bryontharp5790]

Mine was a bad evaporator the worst

[@jetjazz05]

Around 31 1/2 minutes you're talking about the pressure switches shutting the system off, on my '02 Saab there's also a sensor to keep the evaporator core from freezing, I had done some work under my dash and accidentally pinched and broken the wire leading to it. The sensor not being plugged in was telling the car's computer the evaporator core was -50 degrees LOL, I soldered the wire back together and the ac works well now. It's possible other newer vehicles have a sensor like this as well, a bad signal from it could be an issue as well as the pressure sensors. I doubt this info will help anyone as I can't send myself a message in the past lol.

[@robteleeiii8567]

Just came across this video while thinking of tackling a similar issue. After reading some comments, I will offer some myself, Obviously you know what you are doing and it does not come across that you are just a parts changer. It seems like if that problem is common to GM's why didn't you just replace the compressor on the truck the first time instead of all the other parts. Seems that if you went that route and it worked, you could inform the customer that all those parts should be replaced as well and may fail sooner than later. But the car has 180k and is 17 yo, the customer is looking as cheap as possible to buy a little more time. Each month without a note is money earned. I have seen your reasoning on why you went that route but it seems backwards. Replace compressor first with common problem then up sell on other parts, customer couldn't complain about that. Either way, excellent tutorial on changing all those parts.

[@APDTY]

Thank you for watching and for commnting, We first had to find out why the low side pressure where so high, they were high because trhe condesner could not release the heat, we could not find a leak so we removed teh condesner with the assumption itmay have a restriction. Once it was removed the obvious problem was found which was a big chunck fo dirt and hay stuck in between teh radiator and condenser, We scraped all that crud out of the radiator and sprayed through teh fins to get os all cleaned out and verify good airflow. We then asked the customer if they wanted a brand new condenser (around $90 was our cost) or re-install the original. They chose to replace it and they actually wanted this problem fixed for good as this was at another shop already and tehy could not figure out that problem. The compressor actually still worked but the high pressure cut out switch on the back had an intermittent electrical failure. This switch is not the simple low or high pressure running switches and requires compressor removal to change it. So same scenario and the customer chose to install a brand new compressor, this truck is still running around with very nice cold air. Anyway thank you for the nice comments as this particular video has stirred up many people.

[@synapticburn]

@@APDTY another reason is I wouldn't warranty a new compressor without changing the parts you did too. You could burn up a new compressor if the system has other issues. I just damaged my condenser in a fender bender, I got a new one and also have the receiver dryer, orifice tube, and all the o-rings. Was easier for me to change the condenser since my whole grill and stuff was damaged so I have it all off anyway. Great vid tho thx

[@AleciaHeredia]

@@APDTY I have an 02 Chevy Tahoe. My high pressure cutoff switch purple plastic blew out the rear taking all the internal parts making it all depressurize in a matter of 10 seconds. Its fast and very painful I got it in my eyes a few times tryin to find the leak. It took my all year to finally figure it out.. saw the wire and purple piece hanging. I said gotcha. .. melted and blew out. .. I ran without ac since last year. . I ran into som cash an dropped 500 dollars for all the new parts I need to fix my trucks ac the right way.. I got the 4 seasons ac kit.. however I can't find the purple female connector anywhere in phx. What is my system going to do when I install all of these parts and not have that installed. Will it work until I can have it mailed to me to fix it. Pls let me know I'm very hot

[@kstika962]

I liked the video but wish you would have gone through the electrical troubleshooting rather than just say it. The mechanical part is easy, the electrical troubleshooting is where I have issues for myself because you can't see it. You were straight to the point and I liked watching you figure it out.