2002-2006 T1N Sprinter Slider Door Repair

[@bethennydot9867]

You’re like a father to all of us conversion green horns, thank you so much 🙏🏻

[@FloridaVanMan]

That's no accident. I often tell folks I am just trying to be the man I wish I knew 20 years ago. That's when my father passed and I realized there was so much more I needed to learn from him before he left.

[@richardtaverna4885]

Excellent video, clearly explained and executed. Having the sliding side door operating again is a great relief. It would have been a bad scene not to be able to get out of vehicle because it was stuck. This is a very important video to watch and maintain one's Sprinter. Thanks a million. Dr T.

[@tracypjackson]

This was amazing. I can't imagine ever having sorted this out without this video, and now, after ordering a 12 dollar door handle part and bending some metal around, it works better than ever.

[@hrborders]

This worked! My inside handle worked fine but my outside handle wouldn’t manually lock or unlock. Followed this video, bumping the brass part forward and boom- it worked! Florida Van man rocks! Thank you for these videos!!

[@02air]

Just look at the comments who are grateful for your video. Wonderful. Well Van Man, you can just add my gratitude to the list.

[@my_van_apartment]

I just had my sliding door handle stop working and you just provided the answer to fixing it .. yeah! Hi all the way from Australia 🇦🇺

[@ttpjake]

Thank you Florida Van Man! Once again, you saved the day! I was able to open my sliding door and bend the two metal tabs back in place right on the jobsite!

[@keithskarma]

Brilliant video. Exactly what I needed! Precise, easy to see and hear. Especially love the fast-forwarding through the boring stuff! thank you florida man

[@IgyTheVan]

Thanks Florida Van Man! You make owning a T1n so much easier!

[@ttam7777]

Like many others have said before me, great video. I went into it knowing what the issue was and sure enough I was wrong. Prying those bits back made it work like new. Thank you.

[@garyweissenberg491]

Unbelievable...spot on! Everything was you addressed on you video was just like you said. Thanks for your valuable help!!!

[@flancoAD]

Thanks for posting this video. The best of this type of DIY with video help that I have watched yet. I was able to fix the long ailing sliding door on my 2005 Freightliner. Excellent tutorial!

[@artgehr7178]

Thanks Florida Van Man! Exactly what I needed. I was able to fix my problem of opening the door from the inside.

[@GravityLabz]

Such a great video. Helped me fix 2/3 things in the door I needed and made the 3rd one obvious to fix. Keep crushing it!

[@markg2]

Great video. It worked like a charm and my door works again.

[@carlsmith7679]

Thanks for the video Bill. Gave me the courage to open up the door and check it out. Had a broken mounting bolt for the latch, and it was so bent up I needed to remove the whole thing to straighten clean, and lube, and drill out the broken bolt. Now the lock and latch work like I would expect from a new vehicle! Just need to open up the front doors now and do something similar as the front locks are so hard to turn that I am afraid the key will break.

[@FloridaVanMan]

There are high quality key blanks on eBay now, seller sevastopol-423 www.ebay.com/usr/sevastopol-423/

[@Scottinni]

Thank you so much!!! the hidden screw slowed me down but it opens from the inside now. Good video work.

[@zambotv8150]

I can't believe I found this video, I have the exact same problem on my side door... Thanks Bill and Mike, I;ll be giving this a go tomorrow.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Let us know how it works out. Thank you for subscribing. We are off to a great start and new members with kind words really make it more fun. Cheers!

[@zambotv8150]

@@FloridaVanMan it's a great channel, I am sure it'll do well, good luck...

[@topetew]

I very much appreciate all the knowledge you are sharing. I have a 2004 Freightliner/Dodge 3500 that I bought recently. The van does not seem to have capability to lock or unlock the sliding door or the cargo doors from the inside. Am I wrong? Is it possible to change parts, so that the sliding door and the cargo doors can be locked and unlocked from the inside?

[@FloridaVanMan]

They can be locked, just push the handle in. Opposite of opening the door, the handles should swing in also to lock.

[@leealmeida929]

Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, I will give it a go 😄

[@FloridaVanMan]

Let us know how it goes. I'm here to help and you can find me on Facebook for faster communication.

[@bodilgarde4769]

Very easy to get the picture. Your not a weirdo. Thanks.

[@jordanrobertson7374]

Thanks Florida van man My key got stuck in door and eventually got it out tried this and it sorted my problem all the way in scotland 👍

[@oveazeus1]

Another great video. Thank you

[@panchovillasmith8218]

Excellent video. My door is stuck, have to open it to get to some pea gravel that fell in from a ripped bag. Thank you

[@ChrisLoew]

Just repaired mine, found it easier to take the zinc plated gold color lock mechanism, unhook the cable and use needle nose pliers to straighten things back at the work bench rather still attached to the van. First attempt leaving in door like shown and prying fixed one latch misaligned the other two, where the key lock cylinder rotating piece didn't engage the metal arm. The plastic interior baddle never worked and was bent, and having outside the door to work on at the bench allowed me to bend that paddle 90 degrees flat instead of good enough. Finally I sprayed the snot out of every channel and pivot point with silicone spray and what a difference that makes. Silicone sprayed the rollers and guide slots now it opens easily and interior door worked.

[@vasilysidorenko8821]

I am having a bear of a time trying to adjust the sliding door rollers. I replaced all the rollers and followed the sprinter door adjustment manual with no luck. The issue is that the top left gap is quite small and will actually overlap in some positions and the upper right gap on the door is considerable. It seems I have adjusted every bolt to it's adjustment extremities and still the best I got it the door was having a hard time closing with uneven gaps. Would really appreciate any help on this.

[@FloridaVanMan]

We have a better video for adjusting the doors fit, but it is a tricky job. Sometimes to get the front to come out you need to pull the back in. To get the back of the door down you need to adjust the front up, etc. There are three important tricks to it, #1 patience, #2 patience & #3 patience. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJi8gZZ5n5Z0q6M

[@vasilysidorenko8821]

@@FloridaVanMan thank you, I am out of town for a few days but I also have a bunch that the rubber piece I took out has something to do with it. I have the less common door type with a different middle roller piece than most.

[@sophiagrasso8673]

Do you have any videos or advice on the rear doors for the driver side mechanism that you lock before closing the passenger side door? I push on the black lever and I have to find just the right spot for it to actuate. Started happening randomly last year and I have no idea why. Thanks!

[@richdominguez9057]

Thank for all your help with this video. All done! It works great!

[@sknight4817]

I have been working on these vans for a while now, and cannot believe how poorly built they are from door latches to sheet metal spec yet they are so popular I have 2 2006 in the shop now one is getting a full paint color change (dent and rust repair as well) and custom interior other is getting engine repair and paint work

[@RustyMisterTwo]

Do you have a video on how to remove the sliding door? I want to cover mine in fabric ont he inside and that's a bit easier when it's removed.

[@FloridaVanMan]

No video on that but I've done it a few times. Remove the cap at the back of the rail, the stopper or stoppers* from the front edge of the door, and the foot that stays under the plastic step. The door will open beyond where it usually stops and the top roller assembly wiggles out of the back of its track. Then the center roller assembly rolls off the back of its track where you removed the end cap. Putting it back on is a little more difficult but simply reverse the process.

[@RustyMisterTwo]

@@FloridaVanMan Thank you, you are the real MVP of T1N video's and knowledge.

[@patricialacava4472]

Going to try this tomorrow morning!

[@FloridaVanMan]

How did that go? Were you able to get the door working like new?

[@patricialacava4472]

Florida Van Man Have not had a chance yet. I took my “ injured “ 12 year old dog in to see what was wrong with her and they found bone cancer. And for some reason the door has been working for the last two days. I will open it up and bend the part upright as soon as I can. But right now I need to spoil a dog rotten while I still have time to. She only has a month or so. Ironically I bought the van for the dog as she was having trouble getting in and out of the old ford coachman

[@thomaswillington4310]

Another great tip AND trick. Wondering if we might one day get info on the rear gate doors as well. Is anyone else's latch mechanism that connects to the top and bottom of the door making as much noise as mine??

[@FloridaVanMan]

Are you missing the black plastic strips located top and bottom where they would latch in?

[@thomaswillington7904]

@@FloridaVanMan Yes, the black plastic strips are there (the ceiling one is about 6" long and has 3 of the square plastic insert rivets; the bottom one runs the whole length of the rear doors), but there is play when the angled end of the square black door rod goes in (when the door is closed, does not sit tight). This play allows this connecting rod running between the top and bottom black inserts and the handle/door opening mechanism to rattle like crazy on gravel roads and bumps. I built up the inside profile of these holes (in the black strips you describe) so that the latch end cannot move when the door is closed. This worked a charm in terms of muffling the rattle, but putting enough tape to make it snug also made it hard to close the door, and the tape fell off after a few days. Adjusting these plates back/forth would help but I don't see an adjustment for that, only the vertical silver tabs at the top that can be pushed up, but which don't stop the rattle at all as the connecting rod still jingles merrily along. Sorry for all the words - little hard to describe.

[@FloridaVanMan]

@@thomaswillington7904 I have an idea that I "think" is good, but use this and all advice at your own risk. First I will discuss the imperative fail-back plan. Do you have a pressure washer, and is the interior of the van such that you can get it very wet around the rear doors? If you have a pressure washer, but don't want to get the interior wet... just don't close the door for a few hours and be safe about "What if?". So here is the process & theory: Remove the panel from the door and get in there with WD-40 or other good oily lube spraying everything. Then stuff some disposable grocery bags around the lock, shaft, and all moving parts. Be very generous with the plastic bags, and then add spray foam in the door, around the bag-covered rattling parts. If you empty a can in there, wait and see what results you get before opening a second can. Move the door handles a few times every 20 minutes or so while the foam expands and cures. The plastic bags and oil should prevent anything from sticking, and the layers of bag-on-bag makes a wonderful slide bearing. Moving the lock every few minutes will ensure no foam hardens in the path of moving parts. If you don't close the doors, you'll need to simulate the latch post with a stick to move all the parts. Or you can close the doors and reopen immediately, knowing there is some risk of trouble opening. A pressure washer will remove all the foam and tear up the bags, if you need to back-up a boo-boo and start over. The foam will build a soft channel for the tall pole, inside the door, to slide up and down in. It will also give the door a quality sounding thud when closed. If you only do the first-to-close door, this will likely solve your rattles. Doing the first-to-open door will only give it that satisfying solid door sound when you close it. There shouldn't be much rattle going on in that door. I had to spray out both back doors and the slider after one unfortunate "professional job". After I drove home I couldn't get any of the back doors open. 20 minutes with the pressure washer inside the sealed van... and all the doors opened again. I used the above method to replace the removed spray, so my rattle was already overly-resolved.

[@vincentrolfe1384]

Bill, I have an '06 2500 with 180K miles. Driving at 60-65mph on the highway and I hear one beep from the dash and look down and where normally I see the odo reading and time; that has been erased and I see "Hi" (in the time position) in capital and lower case and nothing else. I push the odo button and back comes the miles and time. 1 hour later same speed with a one hour stop at a customers house and the same thing happens and I erase the "Hi" and continue on. What does the beep and Hi mean? This van has full power, good starting and good mileage per gallon. All is running nicely with no other check engine codes for the last 40K miles. Thanks V Rolfe, Chicago

[@FloridaVanMan]

Your van is of that age where it becomes sentient and wants to be friendly. You are lucky, Mine was rude. Actually, that is a high oil level warning. You may have added just a tad too much oil at the last change. The sensor may be glitching, or you may be getting a bit of water into the oil and raising the level. Be sure your oil looks good and not frothy or like gravy. Check that your antifreeze is good color and not foamy, and if you never need to add oil you might let just a few cap-fulls out.

[@vincentrolfe1384]

@@FloridaVanMan Well, you are right. I had the black cap top of the filter canister with the white cage that positions the filter element breaking and failing to filter the oil. I changed to 0W40 T6 Shell for Chicago winter and checked it. It was a little low so I finished off part of a quart of Mobil One 5W40 and over filled it slightly. Drained about 1/2 quart and that should do it. Thanks for the info. Hengst uses a poor quality white 3" O ring with a new filter element and this causes the white plastic cage to crush by over torque. I contacted Hengst and they never called back. I did a KZbin about the white O ring warning other T1N owners. When this happens the fresh oil gets dark quickly after 50 mile of highway. Probably change it at 6K miles. Oil is cheap, motor parts are very costly. I have had several Mercedes Diesels before and the '06 Sprinter is the best I have had. I change the trans fluid every 30K miles.

[@FloridaVanMan]

If you would like us to share your video on the channel, send me a link to it. [e-mail]

[@aphin715]

Thanks for the video... Now im able to open my side door from the inside and outside....

[@glynmoore3730]

Great upload. My issue is the latching mechanism at the rear of the sliding door. It closes but then immediately unlatches from the fully closed position to the 2nd safety position. Any ideas and do you have a video that will help me. I've searched through your huge list of help videos but didn't spot anything.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Sometimes adjusting will fix that. Other times the latch in the door needs replaced. I think this is the video on that adjustment, kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJi8gZZ5n5Z0q6M and this is the replacement part, amzn.to/3U9lyx3

[@glynmoore3730]

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks so much for a quick reply and your link another of your superb tutorials. I'm sure it will help me immensely to fix my non latching issue.

[@wvhempaudits9870]

If I brought my van to you could you make my doors work again? My slider won't latch closed and the rear doors won't open.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Yes, I won't post my phone number or email in public any more because of a flood of spam. You can reach me through our donation page or join us on Patreon.

[@ursulaindigo546]

I'm not sure if this is the problem with my 2003 model. Upon opening the door the other week the actual handle made a snapping sound (did not break) just stopped connecting with the catch and door no longer opens from the outside HOWEVER, by jumping in the back (rear doors) I can still open from the inside. Do I need a new part? or need to do what you have suggested? Looks really hard to figure out. Guess I will have to just go and play with it......

[@FloridaVanMan]

There is a screw that Might have backed out enough for things to come apart but much more likely you will need a new exterior door handle. The arm that reaches in can snap off. The lock tumbler can be moved over to the new handle and we have a video on that.

[@StanUbeki]

In mine, the fork turned by the key is OK left/right, but is too far back. The fork will turn past it. I've tried moving things. I tried bending the tab engaged by the fork, but that just bound up the slider. I'm not sure how to proceed.

[@FloridaVanMan]

One of my door videos, I thought it was this one, shows me putting a screw driver in the hole to bend the door where it holds the handle mechanism. Usually we need to bring the mechanism Inward* to toward center of the van. Sounds like yours may be too far inward and needs to be pushed back away from center.

[@austincrowe7030]

Very Helpful Video! Could you guys do one for the rear doors?

[@FloridaVanMan]

It’s on our list! We need a van with rear door problems first though.

[@austincrowe7030]

Ah, wish you could practice on mine!

[@seqtrailrider]

Great video. Thanks. Any idea if the process is the same on the 906 series vans?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Sorry, I don't know. The parts are not the same, but might work very similarly. I have not had a NCV3 door apart.

[@bencochran2760]

What do you use to grease the track on the top and side of the van?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Spray products work great for a few days. To get lasting results I use a tub of grease and rubber glove to smear the areas we don't easily see. Roll the door a few times then use blue paper shop towels to wipe away the grease that gets where I did not want it. Glove is not optional... thank me later. :)

[@JordanPike]

Great video. Thank you. My sliding door is stuck shut! Won't open from the inside or out. Kinda stumped on what to do. Insert key in outside lock and it doesn't seem to click for lock or unlock. When handle is pulled on inside the lock mechanism seems to engage but nothing happens. :O

[@FloridaVanMan]

Have you tried pull & holding the inside handle while someone pulls the outside handle? The key mechanism in the slider gets out of alignment over time. The more the door sticks, the harder we pull, and faster it gets out of whack. We have a second door video, I think it is called More sliding door repairs. That one should look a bit closer at the locking part that resembles a lever inside a plastic c shape, in the lower left corner as you see from inside the van.

[@keithskarma]

That is what I had to do. Pull both handles at same time. Even then, it took some extra luck but figured it out.

[@ericasherwood]

What do I do if I can not get the door open at all?

[@FloridaVanMan]

With the passenger door open or a friend inside, pull both in and outer handles at the same time. if that doesn't do it we need to take the panel off the door interior and find out if the cable is broken or detached.

[@ericasherwood]

@@FloridaVanMan okay I will do this and let you know. Thank you.

[@melissag7071]

Hi. Do you know if a 2004 dodge sprinter door 2500 will fit on a 2002 freightliner sprinter 2500?

[@FloridaVanMan]

Yes, it will fit. I put a 2002 door on my 2005 Sprinter to eliminate the factory window (and a giant dent in the lower half, shhhhhhhhhh). Be sure to move your door handles so the key still works.

[@melissag7071]

@@FloridaVanMan awesome. Thank you for the reply. Ohhh crap. THANK YOU for the handle reminder.🤦🏻‍♀️I might have not thought of that. You rock!

[@sophiagrasso8673]

Hi Florida Van Man! I have 2 questions. 1. My sliding door always sticks when opening from the outside. It opens about .5” and then stops. And I’ll pull and pull usually need a lot of force to get it to go. I realized today that if I grab the back side of the door and pull outwards while sliding the door back, it goes no problem. Where should I look to adjust the issue? 2. After the doors lock and I unlock, I’ll pull the sliding handle and it’s still locked. I have to pull the inside handle to just unlock it and then can open from outside. It only happens when it goes from lock to unlock. Thoughts? Thanks so much! Your videos have saved me so many times and I’m incredibly appreciative.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Could just need some lubrication or the lock motor is getting weak, causing the "unlock" to be incomplete, just not pushing hard enough on the actuation. Lubrication might help the sticky opening too but you might want a new roller carriage to make it smooth and easy to open. I can send links for parts that fit.

[@sophiagrasso8673]

Thanks for the response! The rolling doesn’t seem to be an issue once I pull the door outwards and slide. Is there an adjustment for the back part of the door I could try first before purchasing parts? Thanks!

[@FloridaVanMan]

The rollers aren't the issue. That roller carriage has a hinge that is probably worn so it doesn't want to swing around the corner that is the first few inches of track. @@sophiagrasso8673

[@sophiagrasso8673]

Ah understood. Yes please send the link! Thanks@@FloridaVanMan

[@FloridaVanMan]

This is a 3 piece set. DO NOT replace all at once! Replace just the center carriage first and adjust it until door closes & opens correctly. After a few days of use we can safely replace the top and bottom rollers but replacing them all at once can cause serious trouble getting the door aligned again. amzn.to/486sU7L @@sophiagrasso8673

[@JAQUIESCOBAR]

Excellent and thank you

[@calebhicks4587]

Totally worked. Thank you so much.

[@apceofmnd]

Great video, Thanks!

[@MatthewDannevik]

Those plastic screws you can unscrew then and it's lot easier to pop them out

[@djkingsley51]

Saved my tail AGAIN! Thanks, youda VanMan!

[@bagmszsolarenerji4029]

great video very useful

[@Ms.Frankenbuilder]

Helpful, Thank you.

[@samcar5390]

thank you!

[@johumm455]

As a European close to Germany i can watch a German language video, but i like English more, so thank you!

[@roberthill1853]

I like using Silicone Spray instead of WD40 on all door moving parts it doesnt attract as much dirt or get gummy over time. It also doesnt leave your van smalling like WD40. Thanks Again

[@FloridaVanMan]

We'll try that next time!

[@02air]

F/U: I followed this video exactly including dropping the same screw. I did use an alternative lubricant then WD 40. This door opens now better then when new. Even now I want to go out and just open and close it. 1 Finger.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Now that the door is opening and closing well, make it sound like a Mercedes door by adding a can of expanding foam in the lower portion and on the large flat areas, to reduce noise & rattle. This video shows this trick. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJi8gZZ5n5Z0q6M

[@thejackofalltravels8267]

Smart video

[@fitnessmade4uinc.748]

Great video wish I was there can't wait to meet you guys and please bring me a Florida van man sticker I want to buy one

[@roberthill1853]

GEAT VIDEO! THANK YOU!

[@jakemill187]

Thank you sooooo much!!!

[@mac1mike]

you just showed this guy how to make easy money next week when the '04 sprinter comes back into the shop.

[@FloridaVanMan]

Awesome! Please share a small percentage with the channel. If we help you make some dough, please help us make more videos. www.buymeacoffee.com/FloridaVanMan

[@whochecksthis]

Excellent video, but you should reliable video door handle repair, not DOOR … so many of my T1N vehicles have issues with the sliders themselves, not the handle…

[@FloridaVanMan]

Search my videos for "door" and you will find a few more sliding door videos. One of them gets deep into adjusting the rollers.

[@whochecksthis]

@@FloridaVanMan whiew, i searched and dug throuh tons of your videos, couldn’t find one on the sliding door adjustment… I subscribed, because your content is great, but no joy so far.

[@whochecksthis]

@@FloridaVanMan I found a good one of yours. I was searching for sliding… soon as I changed to door search, it showed right up! Thanks!

[@LEXICOGRAFFER]

bend back a lot slower if time was taken to lube those innards with something other than WD-40 I'm a-thinkin'...........

[@FloridaVanMan]

I agree. WD-40 is great for many things, but it does dry and I have been trying other brands. PB blaster is good but smells so bad everyone comments on it. Super Slick - Slick Stuff smells great but lasts a day.

[@asiancavemanr7657]

dry graphite spray

[@FloridaVanMan]

Dry graphite will do nothing in your doors. Dry graphite is best when used on clean, dry surfaces, not oily, greasy, dirty door mechanisms. These parts come lubricated with oil from the factory and most 15-20 year old vans have been additionally lubricated at some point with WD-40, PB-Blaster, Lithium Grease or other. The door hinges in your brick and mortar home is a Great place to use that dry graphite spray, but it has no use in our van hinges that are in the rain or any greased parts inside the door.

[@asiancavemanr7657]

@@FloridaVanMan i just bought my 06 biggest and longest so i will experiment to see cause i work as a diesel mechanic and the new graphite spray is really good i use it on trailer roll up door roller and track they work amazing, and it's use for the fifth wheel on semi they stick and dry almost instantly and don't collect any sand or dirt cause anything wet will collect sand and dirt and will speed up the grinding process

[@the-wizard-the]

Just curious. Could you add a washer instead of bending that metal flap? Would that work?

[@FloridaVanMan]

I might be misunderstanding where the washer would go, but I believe it would move things the wrong way.