2004 CHEVY 1500 NO CRANK/START CHANGING ELECTRONIC IGNITION SWITCH

Removing and replacing the electronic ignition switch on a 2004 Chevy 1500 4.3 v6 unfortunately this was not the actual problem but never the less it will show you some good information on how to change the switch.

[@rippk5778]

Yoo can you tell me what you did to get your truck to start because my truck is doing the same thing

[@duron700r]

I watched a pro video also but you show an extra detail or two and that's much appreciated. Thank you much! I'll do the same on Monday.

[@nancywilliams7997]

Thanks for showing just what I needed to know.

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

No problem

[@bigw942]

Hi, thanks for the vid. I had the same problem, put the new part in and it did not start. May I ask What was the problem? I am at that point now. any help would be appreciated. Ken

[@codydale2888]

How much you want for the Chevy looking to buy somthing in march if you still have it then and have a price I’m in Oklahoma also

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

6k

[@nanobarrientos4413]

🙏

[@EricStevenTerry]

I can't even get the accessory lights to come on. Also, what was the correct diagnosis?

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

Do the headlights come on? Are you sure the battery connection is good? The red wire from the positive on the battery runs down and connects to the starter you need to make sure that all of those wires are connected tightly

[@EricStevenTerry]

@@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID Nothing comes on. I have a brand-new battery and alternator. It ran fine a few weeks ago. I've tightened up the cables, but nothing is working.

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

@@EricStevenTerry okay for sure something is loose somewhere there is a bad connection from the battery cable if not even the headlights come on you need to check the two big main wire that come off of the battery and make sure that where they go that they are bolted down nice and tightly without corrosion and then get a multimeter or a test light and make sure that it has power at the end of the cable which would be down by the starter you're going to have to pin down where your break in the connection is. You need to test the battery whether it's brand-new or not and make sure it has power if you can't even get the headlights to come on

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

@@EricStevenTerry you know that brand new battery could be dead already if you have something that's drawing the battery down after it sits for a week or two it could just be a drain from the vehicle killing brand new batteries

[@SamSoKnight6actual]

Thanks taking another 9:20 seconds of my life for this. Myself asked me if my mind is still functioning properly. But idk. Feel like I never wanna mess with cars. Which is not your fault. You did what you thought would help. Just mad af at myself that’s all😐

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

ay check this out...i finally found why mine was doing it...took me 4 months...burnt connections under the fuse box that was under the hood

[@RobertJohnson-nt8mg]

Which one

[@joshuagoodyear1720]

My problem is when i turn the dang key in the off positiion it want shut the truck off ... with a brand new cylinder with new keys

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

you have it clocked wrong...pull the ignition back out and shut it off by the switch then get the lock cylinder in the right position then click it back in

[@MarclenChin]

This was the biggest plot twist I've seen in a while LOL what was the problem? The mega fuse? EDIT: Just saw in the comments what the issue was, never mind lol

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

Ya sorry about that. Thought it was going to fix it...but...no worky...so i was caught off guard myself when i tried to start it lol

[@codymarschinke9383]

What ended up being your issue?

[@michaelbaskinmichael9862]

So what was it I have same problem

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

Gosh man everybody has this problem... It could be a number of things... It could be the starter relay the starter fuse.. the park neutral safety switch on the transmission.. the ignition switch like I replaced.. are my case would I finally found was it was some burned wires under the fuse box that wasn't getting good contact

[@mellymurphy3396]

​@@OKLAHOMAOFFGRIDI've been wondering if mine was burned wires under the fuse box. Seems like a bigger job than I wanna do

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

@@mellymurphy3396 not really you just take off a few bolts and you pop the top part of the fuse box open and you can see what burned. Just look on KZbin there's some videos on it

[@JasonBoske]

You can see the problem as soon as you took off the battery wire, corroded as hell horrible battery connection. Should have been your first check 😂

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

sorry that wasn't the prob

[@mellymurphy3396]

​@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID what was the problem? I have the same issue and need answers please??

[@jarredeckman1976]

I hope this is my problem. My wife got in the Suburban yesterday and it died. Now the dome light comes on and the battery light on the dash. Thats it. No Crank, no start, nothing. Battery is fully charged. It blows the 40 amp ignition fuse as soon as i start to push the fuse into the fuse block.

[@jarredeckman1976]

dang it! I guess I should have watched the whole video.....what was the problem?

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

@@jarredeckman1976 I just figured it out this morning it was ignition switch when I put it all back together it all works now and starts right up from what I understand that 40 amp fuse Powers the ignition switch so it's possible if the ignition switch is shorting internally Shannon could be popping that fuse. But if you're popping that 40 amp fuse instantly I would be looking up under the dash at the wiring harness going to the steering column to make sure it is not shorting out up against metal or it has not been cut into by somebody wiring something to it yes I would probably be looking for a short in the wire more than I would one of the components shorting it out

[@jacobdowell2443]

@@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID so what was the problem exactly?

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

@@jacobdowell2443 it was my ignition switch but it was not popping a fuse like yours it just would not turn over

[@jacobdowell2443]

@@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID so it was the part that you replaced in the vid I’m having the same issue you are but on a 2001 Chevy 1500 extended cab

[@YUTALATEUS69]

So what was the problem

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

a loose wire under the fuse box

[@danlibby6810]

@@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID fuse box in the engine bay or inside the cab? I am having this exact problem right now, and there is no power at the 10a "crank" fuse inside the cab when key is in crank position. But I *can* start the truck by jumping the pins underneath starter relay in the engine bay fuse box.

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

@@danlibby6810 well usually from what I understand it is the ignition switch that causes that and that is why I changed mine but I found out afterwards that it was just a loose wire up underneath the fuse box outside under the hood if you have not changed the ignition switch yet maybe you should try to bang on the fusebox a little bit out there and see if that does anything and if not I will go ahead and change the ignition switch other than that I have heard that it's a possibility that Park neutral safety switch or the reverse light switch underneath that's on the side of the transmission could be causing that same problem where it's not getting power

[@danlibby6810]

@@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID ha, I fixed it. I removed the ignition switch, which required removing the two wiring connectors above the key. When I manually operated the switch, it cranked! So I replaced the switch, plugged in the wires again, and voila! the truck starts. It seems it was probably a bad connection at one of the two connectors. The hardest part (most annoying) was getting the plastic cowling off the switch area beacuse it uses an e5 torx female socket that I didn't have, but luckily I found that a 4mm worked just fine.

[@OKLAHOMAOFFGRID]

@@danlibby6810 man that's awesome

[@SeeThrow]

Eggs all over the Face ...😅