2004 Honda accord slow start and efi relay problem

[@stout890]

that is the cleanest 04 accord engine bay iv ever seen

[@AyoBaby]

indeed! pristine

[@bv2eq]

jason stout like showroom car!

[@mattc420]

jason stout lol damn right, must have belonged to a crack head.

[@ivanarroyo1986]

Lmaoo mines a lot cleaner then this. 😂

[@czarguzman2927]

Greetings Ron, just want to say thanks for your vital information given regarding some of the issues with the starting problem on the Honda Accord. I took note and saved your video for I have wet to fix the problem but, if you're information is correct my problem lies with one of the two relays. The car starts but not on the first try. Nevertheless you're vehicle is immaculate as described by a previous viewer. Thanks again for you're time and expertise.

[@Ron1987]

Czar I suggest replacing the the center relay on top.There are only three on top.This is your PGM-F1 main relay for the fuel injection.If your starter is the original this over time can wear out this relay specifically due to slow cranking.The not starting on the first try surely points to this relay failing.Once it fails the car just will turn over and not crank and run.

[@Ron1987]

Jim I am very sure I was clear on the slow crank issue in my video.I did point out the starter was slowwww to crank and it had a secondary issue.I have had to point this out to other comments as the viewer made the comment of just wanting to replace the efi relay.Clearly the Honda accords with the 2.4 have a known issue of the starter's failing or getting slow to start at a lower mileage than expected.I will say I have tried my best to be very CLEAR on the symptom's and what component's should be replaced based on the issue.In short if the car had a slow crank,clicking,or even nothing turning the key and yet multiple cranking to get the car running the starter is the Primary failure point.I will say on my car specifically the starter was replaced THEN the efi main relay started to Fail after the fact!!My video is to share information and be as accurate as possible and address or answer any questions anyone has prior to any work being done.I surely hope this clears up any confusion as I honestly do care and will do my best to follow up on post.Best regards in getting the car corrected.I do feel like while replacing the relay was not necessary,it could eventually fail like MY car did even with a new starter installed.Thanks for your input and I do regret if you did not fully understand the mechanical side of the problem.Ron1987

[@craigzilla100]

Thank you so much! My girlfriend has the same car, and it fails to start every now and then. Had the starter replaced and thought that was it. Guess not because it broke down tonight. Seems to be a fuel problem for sure. I'm gonna replace both of those relays. Thanks again!

[@Kr0n3kLe]

Good informative video. Was yours clicking? What prompted you to look at the EFI relay

[@Ron1987]

I would say hypothectically it could be the pgm -f1 main relay on the top level of your relays in your fuse box in the car.It is the center relay as I showed in the video.I will say when the starter starts to fail this put's more stress on the relay I pointed out and I had to replace the starter and the said relay to fix MY problem.I will say on the 2.4 the pgm-f1 main relay these are Known to Fail.The dash flickering is probably a electrical loss due to not starting as a result of the starter not cranking the car,and if the said relay fails the car will not run as this controls the fuel injection.If you have the original starter and it is slow cranking I would replace the starter.Then if the car cranks normal but you hear a clicking noise IN the car it is the pgm-f1 main relay clicking and replace that as it controls the fuel injection.Once this is done the car should crank and run and no problem.In short the delayed cranking causes premature wear on this specific relay making it CLICK wihen cranking ONLY! In short the longer cranking create's more heat to the relay and in short burn's up the contact's inside the relay.Replacing the starter also require's removing the intake manifold and you soley replace the outer intake gasket not the intake's gasket to the head itself.Long yes but my guess is your starter is dragging and making the pgm-f1 main relay heat up and cut in and out and maybe make the car cut off while running.I hope this help's and check out my 2nd video about the same topic but with the Part 2 in the title.R

[@Dogger25]

Did you have to turn the car over a couple times to get it to start when experiencing the slow starting issues. I have a 2005 that is having a starting issue. Some days don't have a problem. Other times several times a day.

[@Ron1987]

Pedro R. Yes the 03-07 accords with the 2.4 are identical on the electrical of the relays.I will say on the pgm-f1 main relay (for the fuel injection ) when cranking just listen for a (LIGHT) buzzing sound inside the car when you crank the car and it has the slow cranking issue.If you have the original starter your car can make the issue's like I had.Any further questions just ask.

[@mrau92me]

I have the '07 Accord EX and recently replaced the starter as well. Get your battery checked first, but my understanding is that how these starters frequently exhibit failure is they gradually begin requiring more cranking amps from the battery to rotate and start the car. It eventually becomes more cranking amps than what the battery can produce, and so it can shorten the life of the battery and make you think that it was the battery. Jump starting can help get you by until the starter can be replaced because then you're adding the other car battery's cranking amps to turn the bad starter.

[@u2529]

this is good to know and just last night i had just 1 reading light left turned on for approx 12hrs and waking up finding my battery completely dead. given your info, it's most likely that this starter issue has taken a toll on my genuine honda replacement battery which i got for barely 2yrs and to be honest with a single map light left on for half a day should not drain the whole car battery, thanks!

[@mrau92me]

Mine is a 2.4L too. You can find a way or have someone determine how many amps are being drawn while cranking the car. IIRC, I believe there's info out there about what a good starter should draw.

[@Ron1987]

Kathy G one more thing.l recommend replacing that specific relay because due to the Slow cranking over time it gets it hot.Which in turn it generally will fail and the car with the new replaced starter will crank over and over and the car will never start due to the said relay controls the Fuel Injection.I Strongly suggestion have this relay REPLACED. Again its the PGM-F1 main relay and this relay is inside car directly above the fuse box.The driver side step plate has to be removed and the kick panel to access the relays.

[@grubbmom1]

Ron I have a 2003 Honda Accord 170,000 and initially went into shop for engine stalling after start when cold. After replacing ECM we went to pickup after three months and car wouldn't start, turned over slow twice and stopped and wouldn't start. I had towed to AAA 15 mins later they said it started up upon arrival. We bought home started for a few days, now today wouldn't start again 30 mins later it started. Do you think this could be starter issue and relay? Thanks for the video.

[@Ron1987]

Based on your cars age and mileage YES I would have the starter replaced.I would not rule out replacing the the pgm-f1 (fuel injection relay) simply because the pro long time the starter has probably been slow and its got to the point of a dead spot on the starters solenoid(common) and causes that relay to get hot.If you only do the starter your looking at the part plus the gasket for the intake manifold and about 2hrs labor. If you listen for a (buzz sound when you turn the key to start the car(no radio on and not the instrument cluster stuff) lower left side at the hood latch area the relay is on its way Out.It common to have people replace the starter then a while later the car just turns over forever bc the said relay has finally failed for the fuel injection to fire up the engine.Hope this helps and any further questions feel free to ask! Ron

[@grubbmom1]

@@Ron1987 Thanks Ron the shop that had it replaced the starter relay last week, but it still has intermittent issue, so new starter will go on tomorrow. Thanks again.

[@Ron1987]

If the shop replaced the (starter cut relay) that would be the wrong relay.Now if they Replaced the PGM-F1 main #1 relay for the Fuel injection your OK.If the relay I am being Very specific about controls the fuel injection and the car would just turn over and over and not crank.The hondas with the 2.4 engine have a unusual issue with the starters failing slowly by the slow crank and or getting to the point of doing nothing.On older cars the starters would normally give you a clear indicator of a starter clicking or dragging sound (most know this noise) .After checking my email and saw your reply I wanted to make Sure the shop replaced the CORRECT relay ,as in most cases the relay called (starter cut relay) rarely ever fails.OK Ron

[@adrianmay_multiinstrumentalist]

hello, I own a 2005 Honda Accord LX 2.4 liter 4 cylinder VTEC SULEV dual overhead cam. I have this exact same issue with my vehicle, my car has 99072 miles and I'm dealing with a slow crank issue that has left me stuck more once.My battery is 1 week old and I just put new spark plugs in 4 days ago.My ground strap and the positive and negative terminal look to be in perfect condition with zero corrosion and are all tightly fitted. I tested all the fuses and visually inspected them and they are fine, relays seem to be ok too.I cannot figure out what's wrong with my car and its driving me crazy. I plugged it into code readers 5 times and it has never thrown a code, I also paid for a full diagnostic tests including a compression test and nothing came up.Any advice would be so greatly appreciated. thanks, Adrian

[@Kambrodian]

Did you ever figure this out cause I am having same issue

[@adrianmay_multiinstrumentalist]

@@Kambrodian That was so long ago, I think I remember it actually being the starter/ starter cylanoid. It burnt out like 3 times and I finally got it to run well after the 3rd starter I put in. I was getting remanufactured starters from Sears and they were crap, had one built at a shop that made them and it ran well after that.

[@Kambrodian]

@@adrianmay_multiinstrumentalist Damn I legit just installed mine and it just sits there and never engages unitl I try for like 30 min. Dont wanna take it apart again and swap for another but It looks like I might have to. Thanks for the reply

[@adrianmay_multiinstrumentalist]

@@Kambrodian Best of luck brother 🙏

[@joecox9958]

thanks for clear explanation. Odyssey is similar. yet you did changed several things, and usually problem come from one factor.

[@Ron1987]

Well the starters are prone to fail due to the exposure of heat from the intake.The other is the slower crank causes the the fuel injection relay to get hot,and over time will make it fail.The additional ground cable is just a secondary ground as most (older) cars have 2 even honda.The upgrade from a group 51 battery to the group 34 increases the cca significantly and with All the electronics on 2000 yr models up in my opinion should have a larger battery to support it.Thanks and glad you found it useful.R

[@destined2risetv487]

Hey Ron. I have a Honda Accord 2004. When i start it in order for it to start i have to keep foot on gas petal. And when it starts i have to do the same thing. And when i take my foot of the petal before it stops it putts.

[@JHC1official]

Thank you very much Ron1987 for sharing this video. My 2005 honda accord had a hard starting problem. Replacement of the stater was necessary.

[@czarguzman2927]

Quick question, my 2004 Honda Accord EX won't start on the first turn of the key, it does crank but won't start however it will start on the second attempt. I was told the fuel pump relay needs to be replace. Battery is good, starter and plugs are good. Any advice? Thanks

[@thishanthjeyasingam8728]

did you figure out thee problem i have the same problem on my 2004 honda accord v6

[@Ron1987]

Czar you should replace the PGM-F1 main #1 relay.It is on the top row in the center and there are 3 relays only.If your car has the original starter this over time wears out the said relay due to slower cranking and eventually will fail.If relay does fail the car will just turn over but not crank and run as normal.Any further questions just ask.

[@gringoloko32]

Same for a 05 TSX?

[@jayjr.7601]

What did you all replace again to fix the slow cranking issue?, because im dealing with the slow cranking issue now, i have been to honda and everything. The car i have is a Honda Accord 2010, I purchased it about a month ago and I noticed it has a slow cranking problem. And whoever had the car before me had hit a deer and messed up the wiring. So I already replaced the wiring harnesss, spark plugs, and water pump. But it still has the same issue.

[@Ron1987]

The simple answer is replace the starter.If you do the job it will require buying the intake manifold gasket kit Felpro MS96473 and a reman starter.Now IF your car when you turn key on and you Hear a Buzz from the bottom left kick panel(fuse box relay area) its very distinct you may also need a PGM-F1 or fuel injection relay.IF after you do said work and skip the relay replacement the ONLY issue that may arise is this relay could fail and the car will just turn over and not actually crank.I suggest doing this bc if this slow crank has been a long term problem over time it heats up the fuel injec relay and ultimately it will fail.Here are some Relay part numbers Napa AR6229 $49.99,Advance auto R6229 $45.99, OReillys 25-0384 $45.99 OR Ry724 $36.99(not sure why Oreillys has 2.As for the battery upgrade thats a Group 34 I did and also added a 2nd ground cable and ran that to the block where the actual support for the intake underneath bolts up.Any further questions just ask.R

[@jayjr.7601]

@@Ron1987 so mainly replace the starter and the relay?

[@Ron1987]

@@jayjr.7601 Yes the starter and intake manifold (dry gasket only) its your call on the relay.I personally would buy it since it could have been a longterm issue and the relays normally fail after a new starter install based on actual feedback here.Buy it and keep it in the car or just go ahead and replace it.Removing the side kick panel takes some time and tools,

[@jayjr.7601]

Okay , i appreciate the help

[@Ron1987]

@@jayjr.7601 Sure thing.Hope you get it corrected with ease!

[@abemohsin4469]

Hey Ron, I have an 05 crv 2.4L that has a hard time/slow start in the morning mainly in cold weather, I did my own research and upgraded the battery, alternator has been tested and no issues, I did replace the AC power clutch relay and checked all fuses to see if there was a parasitic drain by using a multimeter but couldn't fine any. Now I'm starting to assume that it could possibly be the starter. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance

[@Ron1987]

Abe Your CRV 2.4 K series is the same engine with the SAME problem.I would just replace the starter as this IS what your seeing as the underlying issue.This is not a uncommon problem as Honda uses the same engine in both the accord and crv.I do not know if the PGM-F1 relay(fuel injection) is in the same location but Bet that it is.If you hear any buzz noise when cranking (door closed and windows up) I would replace that as well.If you do the starter and then later it just cranks and cranks but does Not start Replace the relay I stated. NAPA part # is AR6229 cost $49.99,Advance auto part # R6229 cost $45.99 and if you just enter AR6229 in the search on Ebay it will come up normally and priced (last I checked a while back ) $48.16.Ok I will say this issue before I finally figured out what was the Real problem will Fool you into thinking its the battery,grounds,or alternator and or a electrical issue.Your relays should be above the fuse box like the accord and if you LOOK hard in small black raised print it states what Each relay is.Alright Ron

[@abemohsin4469]

@@Ron1987 thanks for responding, I will get it replaced and let you know the update.

[@-idahos_unknown-3573]

The slow crank scenario you mentioned, did it crank occasionally like the battery was weak even though its fully charged. and sometimes not crank

[@Ron1987]

Yes the (slow crank) can happen either sometimes or each time.If it gets to a point where your trying multiple times to get the starter to engage ,then your starter is probably toast.I would replace the starter if its doing what you explained.Also keep in mind this requires replacing the intake manifold gasket the (dry side) as I point out .

[@Ron1987]

Thanks Jason I am a OCD clean freak on pretty much everything!

[@kathygasper7913]

Have a 2004 Honda Accord. A couple of months ago the motor was slow to turn over. So I had to have jumps every once in awhile because it wouldn't start.I thought that maybe it was the battery so I went ahead and bought a brand new battery and put it in there from Les Schwab. That seemed to do the trick. but about three days ago it would take two or three times to try to get the car to turn over. So today was slow to turn over but it did start. Drove down to the store and I was inside for maybe about 10 minutes, when I came out and tried to turn it on there was nothing no click wouldn't try to crank or anyting. Do you think it is a starter solenoid the starter or the relay switch? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[@Ron1987]

Kathy G. Assuming you have a 4 cylinder engine (2.4) more than likely you will need a New starter which also requires the intake manifold gasket to be replaced as the intake has to be removed to get the starter out.As for the PGM-F1 relay (for the fuel injection) I will bet $$$ its probably making a buzz noise you Never noticed when the slow cranking and or normal cranking occurred.So in short I suggest get a a new starter and the intake manifold gasket kit, and the Relay for the fuel injection OR PGM-F1 .The relay from Napa part #AR6229 cot $49.99, Advance auto part #R6229 cost $45.99 as a general cost comparison.If you have any further questions feel free to ask.I assume you will have a shop do the work,but I like to point out some of the cost(starters run about 130.00 as a remanufactured) by most stores.I have not checked lately though.OK R

[@kathygasper7913]

@@Ron1987 Thank you so much. Believe it or not I'm going to be doing the work myself. I already have the starter and the intake manifold gasket. It came with two. I was pretty sure, but not completely. But I didn't know about the relay switch. You have been incredibly helpful. Thank you.

[@Ron1987]

Ok cool.I point out in this video and my 1st video the location of the pgm-f1 relay. I checked out oreilly auto and they sell the relay and its part # is 25-0384 cost is 45.99.I def would replace this relay as for the reason I stated it gets hot from the starter getting slower,and the time will eventually bury it.On the intake gaskets you will just use the dry gasket that's metal as your not messing with the actual cooling side.It takes about two hours to do,you should make all of your hoses like 1 -1 ,2-2 as you have to unhook a bit of them just to get stuff out of the way.There is at least 1 small coolant line that will leak some coolant but does Not require draining the cooling system.OK R

[@kathygasper7913]

@@Ron1987 Thank you so much. I didn't know that about the coolant. I drained it. But I just finished about 5 minutes ago. Started right up. You were an awesome help. Happy holidays.

[@Ron1987]

I need to make a comment aside from any made.I have a 2006 accord lx with the 2.4 very slow cranking and the battery is new.In short mileage is 139k and NO relay clicking noise just a tired starter.I will do a 3rd video showing and the hearing side for what the heck is going on so I can save you the time,money and headache over a shop or dealer period.I bought this car as a replacement for my family and will be very detailed so ALL of you everywhere benefit from my details.Thanks for all of you who have benefited and learned or shared this page.Thanks ron1987!!!!!

[@Ron1987]

Glad to help Rivera.If you have any further questions just ask!!!!

[@Ron1987]

Scott replaced my primary ground cable to the fender and the additional cable and cut to fit both.I will get my specs together this week and just reshoot a short video and link it here to explain and have the details.I did in short replace my primary ground cable to the battery so I could add the additional ground to the block..These items can be bought at like auto zone or advance auto etc and some easy steps to customize the fit.I will do a follow up!

[@scottduty4885]

Ron1987 Thanks Ron!. Maybe in the same video, could you include actually starting the car. I'd like to see how much faster your car starts compared to mine. I have a 2003 with what I think is a slow start--starts every time, but cranks for a bit then turns over. I am not sure if I should do these upgrades or not. Thank you for all this information.

[@Ron1987]

Ok will do I got tied up last week and would like to show the relays in the car and what they are for on a complete video and will do a start up at the end.I will say adding the additional ground cable and upgrading your negative battery cable to the fender is low cost and be cost beneficial in the end.Busy I was and did not forget your comments prior too.

[@khayataammar]

hey I have 2007 accord 2.4 it was slow starting I went and change the battery it was under warranty from AutoZone .. it worked for a day now the starter click it won't spin and if dos spin very slow and I can't getit to start do u think it's the starter

[@mutj78]

Is high rpm related to relay when it starts cold ? My 2009 Honda Accord starts slow when engine is cold.

[@Ron1987]

The engine when cold(if it's temperature wise Cold) is expected to a point.The rpms do go up when 1st started but should drop back after a short period this normal.Unless your car is doing what I specifically describe I do not think it has a issue.As for the slower cranking in frigid temps this puts a strain on the battery even a really good higher cold cranking Amp one.If you have any further concerns just ask.R

[@Ron1987]

If your having to try several times to get it to start this video should help.I would go ahead and replace the starter and in doing so the intake manifold gasket has to be replaced.You do not have to upgrade your battery necessarily but installing a new heavier duty ground from the battery to the fender and then add a additional ground wire hooked up to the ground to the block should help on the cheaper side.If after this work gets done and you hear some clicking noise when starting up the car then focus on either of the two relays I suggested replacing.I am going to try this week to do a short video of the relays positions in the car if I have time.Go simple one item at at time new starter and replace the 1 original ground and add 1 additional one.Thanks

[@cyberfunk3793]

Probably the clicking you heard was coming from the starter relay and caused by the bad starter: when the solenoid engages the voltage drops and the relay switches off, then the voltage goes back and the relay switches on again. Can also happen with a weak battery and I have had the same problem on my 2006 Honda Accord.

[@Ron1987]

@@cyberfunk3793 I will have to disagree with your theory.I Clearly Know that when the slow cranking occurs over time,it slowly wears out the pgm-f1 (primary fuel injection) relay.In turn because it takes the starter more effort to crank the engine it causes this relay to get Hot! I can guarantee if a honda with the 2.4 develops the slow cranking over time this relay will FAIL in conjunction with the starter being slow.I have had alot inquire as to why the car just turns over but will not fire even though it has a new replacement starter.Simple fix is replace the said Fuel injection relay.The slow cut relay for the starter is not the issue .I have put my finger on said relay when cranking b4 I replaced my starter and sure enough it is this specific relay.That is the just of it.R

[@Ron1987]

I will say my wife's 04 had the starter start getting slow just before the 100k mark.My initial thoughts were mixed thinking a ten year old with said mileage needing starter already.YEP,it did and made the update's as in my video.If it is taking that long to crank it is a weak starter problem not fuel.The 2.4 liter fires up on one to two rotations.The weak starter is due to the heat coming off the intake which in turns put's a burden on the electrical of the starter itself.I would just replace the starter and be done with the slow crank.It can get to the point like our accord where the starter finally would not even turn over and not even a click!I in short used a long screw driver placed on the starter and popped it one time with a hammer(on the screw drvr end) and started up.This was a failing part.I will say the longer cranks put's a burden on the efi relay I REPLACED which controls the fuel!!!!!!!! If you do the work buy the relay for the EFI from napa,and get a reman starter and intake manifold gasket kit.Other wise Honda will pop you good with a factory starter at min 400.00 new and gasket kit,and the relay as it will eventually start clicking IF you listen when you crank the car.I will say a day after I changed the starter the EFI relay was clicking and I replaced that and guess what NO problems since!!!!!!!!!!!! The info here is to help and waiting to fix a problem coming on is present,just get it fixed with the item's I said and I would bet strongly the slow,no crank,or long waits will be done.Ron

[@p4mojo]

Ive got 05' accord ex with the slow/sluggish start issue along with it not starting from time to time. It always cranks, but seemed like the fuel wasnt being supplied. Usually letting it sit 5-10mins after the no start it would fire up. Soo i replaced the fuel relay, but it is still sluggish. Unfortunately i have a relatively new oem spec battery, that is working good. Would the next step be new starter or efi relay? Or just try to add an additional ground wire to the block? Additional note: Ive got a remote car starter / alarm (clifford) that was installed when i acquired the car, would this have any negative effect?

[@connerbutler1077]

Brain Cacaham did you fix it yet?

[@mogtrader8]

Can you show where you got the j hook kit, battery tray as well as the battery terminals/wires/etc. thanks. Are you able to do a video on the positive terminal upgrade?

[@u2529]

wish i was able to hear your engine start before the fix, but my 04 is doing the exact same and for the longest time i was wondering what may be the cause as it happens so random, but mainly after a brief run and shut off then it's like hell getting it started again. thanks for the great vid on this as i will drop by the mechanic to have them possibility replace the the starter or at least look into it first.

[@Ron1987]

Luis S. I watched your video and two things I suggest doing.First go to either advance auto or auto zone and get a free battery and charging check on a machine.This will rule out if your battery is going bad and or if your alternator is failing.Personally my thoughts are even with the mileage you have I doubt your alternator is going bad,however being you did not say how old your battery is another alternate.Based on what I listened to in your video and you had NO other issue's like dimming headlights or in my opinion a battery or alternator issue I think your starter is just going Bad.I will say the Honda/acura are almost alike in some variation.I am not fluent with your model or engine but,however it does have a Failing starter problem based on your video you shared with me.I could research your yr,model and engine to give me more insight,to share my thoughts but,it is late,tired and and will follow up later.It in short with out my researching your specific cars engine is I think your starter is going bad and it clearly in my hearing the video is showing it's wear and slow cranking in my thought's.I will do a follow up and check your cars spec's to make sure I am making the correct suggestion.

[@-idahos_unknown-3573]

i dont know if it matters but i also upgraded the braided engine to frame grounding straps to 4 gauge OFC as well. located next to left engine mount to frame and 1 by transmission to frame

[@Ron1987]

Luis S. I did some research on your 2005 Acura tsx.You have after my mild research have the same same 2.4 K series engine in your acura as the accord.In short you are having the identical fail point of the starter as the 03-12 (for sure) SLOW crank issue.I even went as far as researching the part numbers for a example.For your car and this is (specific) from auto zone.A new reman starter DLG(duralast gold) part number is 17869 for a cost of $179.00 plus a $10.00 core charge.You can buy the auto zone brand for less.However you still will use the Same felpro intake gasket kit MS96473 for like $18.00 on recall.The final comment is replace your starter and intake manifold gasket the (dry) gasket and this will FIX your slow worn out starter.I honestly never considered the Acura side when I made the original video but,clealy the TSX use's the same 2.4k series engine subject to the heat from the intake wearing down the starter.I in last thoughts will say your car has the Same starter as my 04 Honda accord ex with the same engine!!!!Along with the same intake manifold gasket kit from Felpro (which I recommend) .Just get a new reman starter from your choice of auto store and a felpro intake gasket kit.I still would add the extra ground wire as I shared in my 2nd video on some detail.

[@heymayne94]

my 04 accord wont start, replaced the starter ,battery fully charged, it was turning over til recently, I check the ignition relay and it doesn't look burnt. now it won't crank, any suggestions?

[@Ron1987]

Czar I doubt your fuel pump is failing.If that was the case the car would run.I still recommend (highly) replacing the pgm-f1 main relay for the fuel injection.When my car had the issue it would cause the car to not crank on the 1st crank and I could hear the said relay buzzing (it should not do this) when cranking at all.I might suggest removing the step panel at the door and then remove the kick panel that covers covers your fuses and relays.Then on the top level with 3 relays place your finger on the middle relay and listen while cranking the car. If you feel and hear a buzz it is brief the relay is failing.The car cranking after a second attempt points directly to this problem.I will say again if you have the original starter it could be signs of it wearing out.Buy the relay really it is not to pricey and should fix it.If the car shows a slow cranking like a weak battery this is typical of the Hondas with the 2.4 failing starter just for your information.I have been thru this with 2 different accords and they showed the same problems to the letter.Hope this helps

[@kirkw6918]

What about a 2003 Accord EX V6 Coupe automatic it doesn't want to crank over right away hesitate and sounds like a week start check the battery did Regular maintenance thought it needed a tune-up only thing I haven't changed is the spark plugs as of yet not getting any codes

[@lyndelld1]

Thank you, is the blue relay the pgm-f1?

[@Ron1987]

@Lyndell No that's the Fuel pump relay.On the Top row there are 3 relays soley.Its the Middle relay.I do point this out in the video for visual verification. EASY

[@lyndelld1]

@@Ron1987 Thank you, I think that's the problem. It makes a buzz when turning the key. Sometime's it turns over - sometimes it doesn't.

[@Ron1987]

@Lyndell I would REPLACE the starter asap.The short explanation is if you just buy the new relay bc the starter is essentially Worn out it will burn up the EFI relay again.Get a New reman starter and Then Replace the PGM F1 relay(primary fuel inject) them No more spotty cranking and the starter if it's doing as u described Will FAIL! I would get it done bc once the starter solenoid dies it will not crank period and leave u with a tow bill in addition to the stater replacement. R

[@darrelbrown2179]

Which of these issues was your actual problem?

[@Ron1987]

Both.From the beginning it was the vague slow cranking and as I did my general diagnostics it was the slow cranking that burns up the pgm-f1 relay .So what happens is the starter begins with the slow cranking(similar to a weak battery) but over time the slow cranking becomes more persistent and as a result of the said issue this interns causes the relay for the fuel injection to get Hot and will burn it up.Now if your hearing the buzz sound from the lower left kick panel (its obvious) door closed windows up you would need to replace Both the starter and this relay.If you only do the starter eventually the fuel injection relay will die and the car will just turn over forever and never start bc the fuel injectors will not fire.Hope this offers some clarification.I would suggest Replacing the said relay bc in most cases the relay will fail not long after a starter replacement based on my feed back and personal experience with the accords as I have fixed several identical issue.Thanks Ron

[@Ron1987]

Your welcome Henry.Glad this assisted you in a easy low cost fix.

[@Ron1987]

Glad you found this helpful and hope this gave you a clear understanding of the slow cranking and other pointers.Thanks for viewing my page.R

[@Panda_N8]

@ron1987 if I already replaced the starter and it clicks 2 or 3 times to start still should I replace the relay?

[@Ron1987]

JK the short is as followed.The starter had just started to wear out and the slower cranking heat's up the Main #1 EFI relay while cranking.To finish the longer cranking and no starting as normal can make the said relay wear out as the starter's slow's down the cranking it will make the relay click (and this a specific issue based on each car not all).Our said relay was clicking on the slow crank but did not realize this until after I replaced the starter.When you go to crank the car IF you hear a buzz sound (radio off) and pay attention you can hear this slight buzz.If after a new replacement starter is installed in the car just turns over but will not crank,this main #1 relay has failed for the fuel injection.If you have any further questions just re-review my 1st video and view my 2nd video on the same subject.This should answer I think most of your questions.I will do my best to help you if you do not understand something specific.R

[@alexcastillo2701]

I have 2003 Honda accord 2.4 just recently starting to act up not starting and it only cranks 3-4 times before it just stops then clicks and dash flickers I've noticed it only does when on half or less tank of gas any suggestions? Also cranks slowly

[@ricardohernandez9021]

Amigo que es loq dice veo que tu talves ables español yo tengo un honda accord 2003 y x las mañanas lo prendo y prende y se apaga y lo buelvo a prender y ya prende bien tiene bateria nueva que sera amigo ojala y me puedas ayudar

[@81recinos]

thank you for the video mine had a weak start change the stater and it work problem solved thanks

[@Ron1987]

Brain one question then some idea's.When you go to crank it does it try to crank or do you here a clicking sound coming from the starter not engaging.Sometimes a starter can do several things when failing.On the next problem when the engine will not crank try using a 12 inch extension or long screw driver and place it on the starter housing and tap the end with a hammer.If it cranks this clearly indicates the starter is done.I would still add the additional ground cable from the negative battery terminal down to the bracket that supports the intake manifold on the block.Last thoughts go with a reman starter from your local auto store not the dealer oem version it is expensive.Just fyi place the extension or screw driver thru the intake manifold to touch the top of the starter when tapping the end of tools.Hope this helps.And the 04 we have has been fine since I fixed the issue miles later.

[@nbcuni]

Having this issue with my 2007 EX. Until I can replace starter, will a jump start get it going if it wont turn over? Today it had the slow start but wouldnt ignite. Thanks.

[@Ron1987]

M ward yes this could possibly work.The simple explanation is the slow cranking starter make's the PGM-f1 or main fuel injection relay get(HOT) and start to fail.If this relay starts to go bad it will not alloy the car to crank period.I would get the starter replaced ASAP!!!! Then if after this has been done,and when you go to crank the car and you hear a slight BUZZ sound (radio off and just listen) inside the car when cranking more than likely the PGM-f1 main fuel injection relay is failing as well..This relay from Napa is part number AR6229.This buzz sound is like a second or two at most.I really think on your car the starter is toast and worn out the said relay I said above and a jump start really will not make a difference.Granted a lot of scenarios can come into play like a worn battery,a alternator not charging however I cannot be sure as each car has it's own issue.Things to help you are that I would like to know are simple.The age of your cars battery would be helpful and the mileage on your car.Granted this may or may not make any difference as it is a ten year old car and if over 100k the starter is probably worn out and worn out the said relay I said.Hope this helps and any further questions Just ask!!!!!

[@nbcuni]

Thanks so much! In the shop now.

[@jeremyrussell3812]

I have an 07 accord I changed all the relays both cam sensors and the crank sensor also the obd2 will not communicate I’m not getting any spark to ignition coils I’m lost any suggestions?

[@Ron1987]

Ok lets start from the beginning.Just indicate what the 1st issue was with the car.I would not have just replaced multiple items hoping for a fix.I will say to check 1 item and its simple.In your car (inside fuse box) remove and check the #2 fuse it is a 15amp check to see if its blown.If blown replace it and see if this changes anything.I could suggest more,but would like a better understanding of what the Initial problem was prior to doing any work.I will wait and or look into things after I have more to go on.Ok R

[@jeremyrussell3812]

It started hesitating and jerking acceleration became sluggish almost non existent pull over to check under the hood but didn’t touch anything and it hasn’t started back up since

[@Ron1987]

@@jeremyrussell3812 Does it at least just turn over? Long day (drive a truck) so try spraying some engine start fluid into the intake(a moderate amount) .Then attempt to crank.Being with so many diff things that may cause the issue,try the simple check.IF it runs briefly it could be the fuel pump,fuel regulator or fuel filter which ALL are on the sending unit in the tank.Granted it could be none of the above.Done 4 tonight (tired).I ll do some thinking / checking.R

[@jeremyrussell3812]

Ron1987 I’ve tried it all what’s puzzling me the most and o believe to have a direct affect is the fact that the communication to the obd2 keeps saying error and still no spark from coils I’ve checked fuel pump and changed it I checked fuel pump fuse and relay and changed them just in case main 1 and 2 ignition fuse under dash as well as all acc fuses and meter fuses lol everything I can only think of the computer itself

[@Ron1987]

@@jeremyrussell3812 Well being the parts you replaced and checks have not corrected it.After some research I did while waiting today,Someone had a similar issue to yours.The short story is some how water got into the ECM and pretty much cooked it.Being the drain for the AC is close and the possibility of a leak from the windshield I would just disconnect the battery and remove the ecm.I would at least inspect it for any white chalky residue and could even be water still in it.Granted yours cars issue was while moving with electrical it can fail.Not to mention even though your scan tool may work on most cars and even the accord sometimes the tool itself can be a issue(even if this is not the case).I have a Actron Cp9580A does pretty much everything.I would be checking the ecm.Unless I find other info to dispute this idea,I will post it.Btw do you have the 2.4 k series engine or the V6.Just curious.R

[@mattc420]

hey, my 2009 Accord was going 70mph on cruise control and boom it was like the car had been hit by an emp grenade. I pull over and the key cranks the car but the motor isn't turning with it... after try #15 The motor cranked with the turn of the key but no start. what is happening??? we just replaced the timing belt twice already less than 6 months ago and before that the timing belt was replaced in October. so October and $1200 fixed til December and then sat at mechanic til March and they gave it back claiming it was the belt company's fault and now this crap??! please someone give me a tip. it's NOT the starter or battery. it's a fuse, switch, relay, or sensor.

[@Ron1987]

Scott I made a 2nd video titled the same as the one here and has (part 2) at the end to answer your questions.Pretty tired so just check my page as the NEW info is there.

[@smileyrod11]

is this the same relay on for a 2006 honda accord 2.4

[@mogtrader8]

wait, how do u know if the relays go bad?

[@brendanmichael6036]

My accord slowly starts when it starts, I have a good tested 51r battery, alternator is a remanufactured tested good, starter tries to spin, lights work, all good, doesnt work, is it this relay?

[@Ron1987]

The Simple answer is REPLACE the stater.The testing done is fine,but even those machines cannot determine a faulty starter if it has the (typical slow crank) like the 2.4.I would also listen when you do crank it (currently) to the lower left kick panel to determine IF you here the slight buzz noise which could be the pgm-f1 fuel injection relay going Bad as well.This relay does not always fail when the slow cranking is present but could be a issue after the replacing the starter where in short the car will turn over for ever quick but never actually crank.This would be the said relay is bad and could occur.If you have any further questions feel free to ask.If you do the work yourself it takes about 2 hrs a new reman starter and the felpro intake gasket kit(you only replace the DRY side gasket) .OK R

[@brendanmichael6036]

@@Ron1987 I read that as you yelling at me because honestly I feel like a jackass now. I will do the starter and update you sir. Lol, in all seriousness. Thank you, its helped exponentially more than you'll ever know. Sometimes you just need to be able to hear and handle the truth. Having said that, my ignition switch is also kinda loose, gonna just replace that too, it's original, why not. These accords are decent in reliability.

[@Ron1987]

Its A OK to over look the issue sometimes.I will say these starters do not show the typical signs of failing(clicking,or engage but not engage,or just a bunch of noise).Once you have a replacement installed just Keep in your thoughts if you hear any buzz sound inside the car(no radio on windows up) and or if no sound and it just turns over over and never fires up it will be the said relay for the fuel injection.Good luck and you are by no means the only one whos had this issue!!!!!! Its very common today as most accords with some miles or age the starters just wear out due to the heat from the intake manifold it just happens.Have a great one R

[@Ron1987]

Salman if the car has a delayed crank it is more than Likely your starter going bad!!! Unless when your cranking the car and you hear inside the car a literal clicking sound then I would suggest replacing the starter and the efi relay.Please do not confuse the clicking sound from the engine bay(as the relay failing) is heard with the door closed,window up and a true click sound for maybe 2-3 seconds at most.I do not want you to replace a non failing item unless it fits this criteria next.Replace the starter and IF after this replacement door closed and NO lag on start up,(no radio on ) and you hear a click,click literally in the car then I would replace the expensive relay.This sound is VERY specific and replacing the relay would not affect the starter itself.I am going to do a follow up on a newer 06 accord we just bought with a Failing starter with out the efi relay click noise!!!!!! Keep it simple.Just to make this simple my wife's 04 had just over a 100k when the starter was SLOWW and after my diagnostics and research shared this info.In short if the starter is taking more than say 2 revolutions of cranking on a 10 year car or less mileage plays into this it more than likely the starter itself.I am trying to save you money.

[@Ron1987]

heymayne94 I have two questions and then some suggestions.Doe's the car when you try to crank it even turn over and over and not run(this is my 1st question)If this is the case replace your PGM-F1 main relay number1 I shared the part from napa is AR6229 for $38.95(price may vary to date)Next question #2 do you turn the ignition key and the dash lights up as (normal) and then nothing past the ACC spot going to the run position to crank?Basically the car does nothing to crank.The ACC is accessories spot on the ignition .In my opinion IF this is occurring you would need to replace the accessory Relay which I have Done and a Napa part which is AR6242 and is black in color and the last relay on the TOP level of the relays going towards the firewall.If you want a full idea of the relays check my follow up video for Part2 slow crank and efi relay video.To end this basically ON my car the starter was slow,and also finally hit a dead spot on the solenoid.As a result my 04 had the EFI main relay 1 clicking on cranking ,but as a result of the multiple attempts to fire up the car with the DEAD spot on the solenoid heated up the ACC relay which I did have to replace as well and FIXED all of the cranking and clicking period.If you need any further help I will do my best to answer what I can.I will say the Honda with the 2.4 k series engine is KNOWN to have a failing pgm -f1 or main fuel injection relay and this basically makes the engine turn over and over and not fire up.IF this is your case do this relay specifically.If you get nothing turning the key past the ACC point on the igniton your acc power socket relay is bad.Since you replaced the starter and a good 12.9volts or higher on the battery it should start unless one of these two relays have failed.The ACC relay from napa is like $8.00 I forgot that.

[@heymayne94]

sorry just saw this. I just bought a new battery for it. it cranks fine but after a couple starts, it struggles to turn on. I do flip the key to the ACC and try turning the car on. alternator is good and so is the starter. I will try posting a video

[@SteakJrOfficial]

Ron1987 hello my 2007 Honda accord won't start when it's cold new battery changed starter twice and won't start till like 10 times after I turn the key every morning after siting more than 10 hours could ir be the acc relay

[@dantedelossantos1680]

I don't know much about cars do have a video about how to upgrade or change the battery the way you did thank you.

[@scottduty4885]

Hi Ron, could you provide information on the battery ground cables--where did you get them and/or a part #? Thanks.

[@Ron1987]

Whodunit I do pride myself it a super stupid clean car inside and out!!Thanks for checking out the page!!!!!

[@milanadhikari1247]

Hi, do you know where is Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor located on 2004 Honda Accord EX. thx

[@Ron1987]

Milan A. I do not know right off hand. I will see if I can provide that information after checking my manuals.Sorry for the delayed response(just super busy) lately.

[@Ron1987]

Milan A. The part is actually the fuel pressure regulator.It is mounted on the fuel tank sending unit.In short you have to remove your spare tire to access the cover over the fuel tank to remove the sending unit the FPR is screwed into sending unit. I cannot walk you thru each step to do this check or repair its to lengthy. However buying a Haynes or chiltons manual on your year accord should show this repair work and most of the steps.

[@markmcnair2211]

Thank you. This is exactly my problem

[@Ron1987]

Ok Mark M. Just replace the said items starter and relay I illustrated.Even if the relay is not buzzing when cranking it will Fail even after a New reman starter (as I surely would not buy a new one) from Honda.

[@markmcnair2211]

Ron1987 thank you. I live in japan so I don’t know how I will sort it all out but now I know what to do I don’t need to take it in to the dealership to have them diagnose the issue.

[@Ron1987]

Adrian M.It is your starter that is FAILING!!!!!!!! For some ironic reason these 2.4 K series engine do not show the typical fail sign's of the starter going BAD as normal.The simple story is our Honda 2.4 do the slow crank,NO crank or multiple tries to crank,or multiple revolutions before it cranks.For some reason the starter's on these in my opinion do not click,drag or starter drag trying to start.The simple story is replace the starter and the dry intake manifold gasket yourself OR take it to a shop to have this done if your not mechanically inclined to do so.Back in jan of 16 I had to replace my my 06 accord (nephews new car) starter and cost was $224.00 plus a $38.00 core charge from auto zone!!!!Plus the intake manifold gasket is about $19.00 to boot and that is a Felpro gasket kit.It takes about 2 hours to do the job if total.Bottom line is your starter is going bad,it will require a new reman starter,new intake manifold gasket and about 2 hrs for said work BY you OR a shop.A shop will kick this up to for example $500.00 with ease just based on parts cost and labor.There are several good youtube vids on replacing the starter on this 2.4 K series engine and you DO have to remove the intake to just get to the starter.Hope this helps and this is cupcake for ME,but if your not savy on the repair aspect check your local dealer and or shops for COST.I will say most Honda dealers will install your aftermarket parts (starter with a lower cost from a auto store) plus there labor!I say this as I have dealt with a similar issue non related to this subject.Make sure you get the OLD part for the core charge if you go this route.

[@kiorgates2148]

Ron1987 Thank you

[@Gevans5472]

Suggest changing the knock sensor while you have the intake manifold off.

[@939salm]

Thanks man, im am going to try these solutions starting with the relay.

[@hypershotu3808]

Just fixed mine a couple days ago, mine would take 2-3 cranks to start, and when it started it was really lazy kinda shaky. I replaced the efi cause it was making a clicking noise since I got the car, but that didnt fix the start issue. I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump relay(blue relay) & that worked. Now the car starts perfect, no problem at all. My car has a new battery, new starter and a good alternator, new spark plugs and recent oil change. All that done before the relay. I changed the spark plugs & oil thinking it could be that, then the efi relay, ended up being the fuel pump relay. Hope this helps someone out. Bought both relays at an Oh Reilly’s.

[@Ron1987]

I would point out that replacing the starter 1st then IF the PGM-F1 (primary fuel injection relay) is clicking then replace that after.I say this bc if you were to have replaced this relay prior to replacing the starter it would run the potential to burn up a brand new relay if used for a period of time.I really do not think the Fuel pump relay has anything to do with this specific problem.As for new plugs that fine,but if you did not do the ignition coils as a Pair (especially if there the originals) I would recommend it!! Changing the oil has zero affect on the slow cranking.On the good side all the new parts are preventive maint, and would just say replace your igniton coils as they to can fail(not to common) but I would if the car has over 100k on the mileage.THanks R

[@hypershotu3808]

@@Ron1987 My starter failed way before, and the car had a bad battery, so I just replaced both. The car has been fine since the I replaced the fuel pump relay, no problems at all. The coils are good, I checked.

[@Ron1987]

Nathan C. Yes replace the pgm-f1 relay .This is your primary fuel injection relay which over time gets hot due to the slow cranking(normal problem) with this car and engine.The Napa part number is AR6229 But can be cross referenced and bought on Ebay!!! I am sure the other auto stores use a different number due to the brands as Napa is (Echlin) where as say auto zones is GP Sorenson for example.

[@corycampbell2951]

Good video bud, appreciate the help.

[@dennisramos6301]

I have the a similar issue, sounds like as if the battery is weak! Slow cranking per say then starts. I’m gonna check the starter

[@Ron1987]

If your car has I'd say 75k or higher mileage,do not waste your time getting the starter checked.Whether getting it bench tested(remove it and take to a store) or even let them hook up a machine Typically will Not isolate this!! JUST replace the starter.Granted you will need the intake gasket kit using Only the dry side gasket.Takes about 2 hours to do this.Now if after replacing the starter and it just spins over an never fires up you have to replace the pgm f1(primary fuel injection relay).Any further ?sss just ask!!

[@Ron1987]

On my 04 it soley was a slow start and never any clicking or several tries to get the car to run.It however did get to the point of no start and had to tap the starter with a 3/8 extension and hammer and it cranked every time.I will suggest two things.One take your car to say either auto zone or advance and have them do a start/charging system check with there machine.Unless you have a multimeter to verify the voltage at the battery,and do a crank test to verify the numbers.Honestly your starter is probably going and if it takes multiple cranks to get it to start points to either a weak starter,tired battery,or both depending on the age/condition of each.Since we have owned this car for 10 years I have done all the work myself to the letter and know this car.So check and see how old your battery is at least for knowledge,then take and get it checked for FREE! Btw how many miles are on your ride not that it is relevant but a 05 is just as capable to have the exact scenario I showed and upgrading the negative battery cables IMO is a must.That is adding a 2nd one to the block and change the oem from the battery to the fender at least.The only reason I changed the EFI relay was because it was clicking on start up after the NEW starter was in place! End story removing the starter and getting it bench tested is worthless at this time due to age,and being this clearly is a problem that is evident.So in short consider replacing the starter,intake manifold gasket and at least upgrade your existing ground wire and add a secondary at best.I just received a true Honda shop manual via a ebay buy and will be posting the the relays that I was not sure of in the near future.

[@Ron1987]

@Adam B Just because the battery failed and you replaced it will not address this specific issue! The short explanation is your starter is FAILING.And in turn can also fry your PGM-F1 (primary fuel injection relay) due to the slower cranking.I would strongly suggest replacing the starter especially if its the original.If you need any further help just ask.Thanks and I would not put this off,as the starter can fail and the car will do nothing.

[@Ron1987]

@Adam B Glad this corrected the problem for you.Thx R

[@Ron1987]

Matthew C. I honestly do not know what your car's issue is.If it were me I would take it to Honda dealer (YES) really and get the matter resolved! I say this because Honda knows there brand and will correct the problem with the cost effective price.I can say our local dealership has done right by us on our nephews old now gone 98 accord which I did Most of the work on myself.I will say some things were above my skill set and that was done by Honda.As for our 04 accord ALL the work has done by me!

[@freethinker5814]

Why would my honda 2008 not start normal but when fuel is poured in the injector it starts but misfires

[@Ron1987]

Thats easy to explain.If your starter is the original and has had a mild slow start over time it causes your PGM F1 main relay (fuel injection) to get Hot.So eventually this will burn out your Fuel injection relay which in turn is why the car will turn over but not actually run .Putting fuel in it is short term to make it run until the fuel you put it in burns off(very short run time).SImple Correction is to Replace the PGM F1 relay OR in simple terms the EFI relay.In my Videos I point out exactly where its located inside the car above the fuse box.It requires removing the kick panel,door plastic trim at the driver side seat along the door area.If your starter is the Orig I would replace it because ultimately the slow starter cranking ( wether its obvious or not) will burn up the EFI relay again.I would replace the starter for this reason espec. if its the Original!! I have a Updated list of the EFI relay or PGM F1 .Auto Zone Duralast brand Relay part # 20742 cost $8.99, Napa's is the Echlin brand Part # AR6229 Cost $64.99 , Oriellys is there brand part # 25-0384 cost $56.99 and they Offer another choice part # RY724 cost $54.99, .If you have Any further Questions just ASK!!!! Ron

[@freethinker5814]

@@Ron1987 Hi Ron thanks for the explanation so to say its the injector relay fuse ?

[@freethinker5814]

@@Ron1987 But the mechanic has checked and the relays are okay checked virtually everything is there another thing to check why the car won't start at one kick

[@Ron1987]

@@freethinker5814 I am not agreeing with your mechanics diagnostic check.IF the car would Run for a few seconds by pouring fuel into the system it Clearly Indicates to me its a BAD EFI relay.This is a common issue for the 2.4k series engine honda makes.Just go buy the relay I specifically indicated I would not hesitate to believe this will Fix the problem.It is a RELAY not a Fuse

[@freethinker5814]

@@Ron1987 Thank you again Ron but the car doesnt off when the pour fuel and start it. If you drive it you'll be noticing shooting while changing gears and kind of rough idle

[@Ron1987]

I will say with what has been done it can in my opinion be 1 of 2 relays.Being that if the car does not crank at all make's me lean towards the ACC relay AR6242.If the car just cranked over and over and then finally crank would more than likely be the pgm-fi relay .I would go the low cost route and do the acc relay as it is only $8.00 plus tax at napa.This should fix the problem.In simple terms the constant turning the ignition key to crank can Also heat up the acc relay as this is temporary crank to run position while holding the key to crank.My 2nd video shows where the ACC relay is top level last relay going towards the firewall or engine bay.My acc relay bit the dust fast and had the clicking and replaced soon after all the update's were done and was the last item to replace and since my original post not one problem since!!!!!Easy fix and you should be A OK.Keep it simple is my logic.

[@Ron1987]

Mogtrader8.I bought the J hook kit from auto zone and you may have to cut the threads to fit! as I did as they were touch too long for my choice.As for the ground cables I chose auto zone and the negative to the fender is approximately 12 inches long.If you want to add the additional ground cable this is 48 inches long and you may have to cut the end to make it exact and install a new copper end and heat shrink it(recommended) if you cut the cable.This attaches to the nut side of the negative battery cable nut and down to the to the intact manifiold support braket..As for the battery tray that should be under $8.00 at auto zone do not recall the part number (being tired). I have the 34S DLG (duralast gold battery) for $129.00 minus the core charge IF you do not upgrade your battery.The battery trays are located in the battery cable area close to the batteries and on the lower rack.I think they only sell 1 version for larger batteries on recall.If you go with the said larger battery You have to do the obvious remove the battery tray guard,install the larger battery,install and test fit and cut to fit the J hook kit,and done.I have Not upgraded the Positive battery cable as it works fine and (not problem leave it alone)!!!! If I left anything off or goofed up my suggestion just let me know as I am fairly tired tonight.R

[@junioralvarez2730]

Ron1987 quick question bro. I have a 2003 Honda acord, that will crank & almost start but something does not let it run up? the battery light showed up & I don't know what's the matter with it. any ideas?

[@rjafrias]

Very helpful Thank You.

[@Ron1987]

Junior A. Take your car to either auto zone or advance auto and get them to check your charging system.If your battery is over 5 years old it probably is your battery just going bad.Both of these stores check this for free!!!! Unless you have a multimeter to verify the voltage yourself the numbers should indicate at least 12.9 volts key OFF at the battery.I seriously doubt you have a alternator problem but,if your battery is over the said age of 5 years this should be your problem.I strongly suggest buying a auto zone or advance auto battery as there premium gold line batteries have the BEST warranty over other brands and expect to spend about $120.00 or more from either store.If you go the GOLD or top of line battery you get the better battery with a 3 year or more Free replacement if it fails.The battery light on the dash in my opinion indicates a battery just going Bad.Buy the best battery from either of the stores I suggested as this literally will pay for itself in the long term.Hope this is helpful.

[@Ron1987]

T Dub question and then my comments.If your car has the Original (oem) starter I would bet $$$ your starter is failing.These starters do NOT show the typical fail symptoms like clicking all the time,dragging and turning the key multiple times to get it to engage.Even though the system checks do help this will not isolate the starters problem unless it shows on the test.The best way is to get it bench tested(yes remove from car).But even that is not full proof,if the solenoid has a dead spot.Now my suggestion is get a new starter (remanufactured) and also buy a new pgm-fi relay AR6229 (napa Echlin) brand and do them both.Reason is if the starter is failing it has already put some harsh wear on the relay and not uncommon to replace the starter and then the relay soon dies after the fact.I hope this was helpful and if you have any further questions just ask I will try to assist you.The car not cranking at times is a combination of both the starter and relay going bad.If you do the job it takes about 2 hrs and you will need a new intake manifold gasket kit it comes with 2 gaskets you will only use 1.The felpro part number is MS96473. OK

[@eidysebastian4667]

Un suscriptor más

[@codyfreeman5420]

Thanks, bud! I'm having an intermittent hard start, and I've noticed i can hear a clicking from time to time while I'm just sitting in the car. Going to replace mine and see.

[@Ron1987]

If your hearing the described noise,I would Replace the starter 1st then the Relay after that.If the starter is the original or your not sure the symptoms of these starters is normally a gradual slower crank (not all the time) but over time it will fail and cook the pgm-f1 relay for the fuel injection.Any further questions feel free to ask.

[@codyfreeman5420]

@@Ron1987 looks like you were right. I grabbed a handful of the relays from the u-pull-it yard just in case multiple ones were already dead. Swapped one out, and almost immediately had the same hard start issue. My battery was only a couple months old, so I was pretty sure that wasn't it, though I had it tested anyway. It was good. Replaced the starter, and it IMMEDIATELY cranked like it had never cranked before. Ill continue to drive it around, but all indications appear to have been just the original 15 year old, tired starter. Thanks again for the help!

[@Ron1987]

@@codyfreeman5420 Glad it worked out.Sorry for the delayed response.Just super busy work wise.Thx

[@mumtajbegum8333]

Hi sir im from malaysia...plz show me where to fix the 2 or 3 point grounding wire (negative)

[@Ron1987]

My recommend is this.Buy a new neg battery terminal with cable like the OEM and I cut the end (bolt hole end) off and replaced with a copper end.These tend not to rust or draw corrosion.I then bought a battery cable and made it 48 inches long(you may not find a cable this length)may 50 or 60 inches depending.This cable will have just the ends for bolt holes.I replaced those ends with copper ends and make sure you heat shrink the ends where the cable inserts into the copper end.Install the new terminal to the battery then to the fender as it was.Then attach the long cable to the end of the bolt at the terminal and install nut.Run the cable (like I showed in the video ) down towards the starter but your actually attaching the end AT the support bracket for the intake manifold it has 1 bolt.It is fairly simple and make sure you zip tie the cable once done to keep it secure and I also installed conduit or loom the protective plastic on the cable as well.This is not necessary but helpful.Hope this helps with a general idea of what to do.R

[@riverael5034]

I have the same problem with my accord 07 outo Zone say my battery is ok this video is my solution thanks

[@adrianmay_multiinstrumentalist]

oh, I had the alternator and starter tested too ma checked out perfect.

[@brendanmichael6036]

I have been running around literally as my car wont start to remedy and I even ended up spending time just cleaning the hell out of my engine bay, grounds are good, cleaned and my car turns for a millisecond then just stops, lights work, dash lights work, I'm just lost.

[@jjtomahawk6829]

Maybe it’s the fuel pump or fuel filter

[@acura1384ify]

Thanks for the inffo..

[@Ron1987]

Sure.

[@gserranox23x]

Your awesome! Thank you for your video

[@rustedratchetgarage6788]

Just had a crv in for this tough to pinpoint the cause 97k 08 model

[@Ron1987]

Ok I see you replaced the battery and alternator.I hope you had your electrical checked by the auto stores that do Free checks for failing batteries and or alternator.Aside from that does the car just turn over and not crank up?I know this retrorical as I know you said it will not start.If it is just turning over,and not running do you hear a clicking sound (with the door closed) in the car or nothing.I do not want to overstep a obvious fact,but it could be your efi relay on the top level center position has failed.These are Known to Fail and that controls the fuel to the injectors.NO FUEL, no crank! I do not want to just throw ideas,but if you spray some starting fluid into the tbi (throttle body) removing the intake tube to it and they see IF it fires up.If it does this means you have no fuel going to the injectors.My next step would be replace the relay I specified in my video and retry.I am by no means a master mechanic however this might solve the issue unless you have another issue that is not showing a check engine light or a code in the ecm which would light up your dash every time and stay on.I may do a follow up after some reading in my shop manual and share on tues.

[@mcleb84]

Why the hell couldn't Honda just make things this way to begin with? I would be more than willing to make these changes. Sure seems worth it.

[@ninja250LA]

This video misled me. I have a 2006 Honda accord SE. the car got slow start problem. I bought a efi relay for $30 from Pepboys and replace the old relay. It doesn't solve the problem. I am sure the problem comes from the starter. Nothing wrong with relay and battery.

[@omarpimentel5061]

I am having this problem on my honda accord lx 2004, it starts slow and recently I have to turn the key several times to start the car

[@p4mojo]

It always cranks, sounds weak and some times it just seems like it isnt getting fuel or its flooded and wont start. Leave it alone for 5-10 mins, and it will start. Even when it starts the starter seems to take 4-5 rotations/cycles before it fires up, def longer than other hondas ive owned. The car has 113k miles and is the 4cyl.

[@connerbutler1077]

Brain Cacaham did you find the problem?

[@p4mojo]

Dodge 318 Cummins, replaced the starter which helped... But the real issue for me was the hack job remote starter install the previous owner did. Paid a place that installs them to undo the install and that solved all issues.

[@connerbutler1077]

Brain Cacaham ya I think the fuel pump relay is the problem I just wiggled It around while turning it over and it started right up.

[@p4mojo]

Dodge 318 Cummins relays/wiring/battery/starter/clutch rubber pad, have been the only issues for my japanese car/truck starting issues. Always go to junk yard for relays!

[@connerbutler1077]

Brain Cacaham ya that's what it seems lol but I wasn't about to drive all the way up to the nearest junk yard for a broken part lol. A brand new one at Honda for $30 is fine with me.

[@Ron1987]

IF you had Read the latest post it explains how the relay fails.However I will keep this simple.The slow cranking of the starter over time causes the PGM-F1 relay for the fuel injection to get hot each time you crank the car.It normally will start to indicate this when you start the car (NO radio on,windows up) and listen closely to the bottom left kick panel and it will literally have a second or two of a Buzz noise.This is not Normal.In short the longer cranking rotation causes the specific relay I point out to get hot and end result relay goes bad and even if you had replaced the starter the car will just crank over for ever and never fire soley bc the relay for the Fuel injection is BAD.Hope this clarifies any questions in regard to this specific issue with the honda 2.4 k series engine for the accord, and even the Crv and Element .OK

[@CMDBoy]

Is clean 😎

[@Ron1987]

Thank you I do keep and entire vehicle clean especially the engine bay.

[@Ron1987]

Thanks!

[@Ron1987]

I have one more update.After all the work was done the car would have this clicking from the ACC position only.In short when the starter bit the dust and trying to start the car a lot my theory is it overheated the ACC relay which I verified was the click noise on start ups with all the new parts.I replaced that relay from napa and the part # is AR6242 for right at 7.00 cost.My next step if this did not solve the acc relay noise was the ignition switch however that has not presented a problem since I corrected this particular issue after the fact.Hope this information assist anyone with said issues and I will soon do a short video of the fuse box focusing on the relays above it inside the car and detail each relays position and name.Thanks for checking this post.

[@ronaldoneal2281]

Honda accord 2003 its pumping gas to fuel rail and firing but no start. Can u help please

[@Ron1987]

Are you sure the pgm-f1 relay is working? A easy way to see IF the injectors are Not working is spray some starter fluid into the intake (A little bit) if it fires up you Need the said relay above.AR6229 At napa .Unless you want to add some information and we will go from there.R

[@Ron1987]

Free/free I have to disagree.A electrical system is primarily grounded from the battery.Granted there may be other ground points the alternate choice is NOT one that would have been beneficial.My point is simple most older rides have multiple ground wires and they ALL originate from the negative ground wire from the battery!!!!! Example's my 87 mazda truck has 3 all leading off the ground from battery to the fender,then subframe then block.2nd example 98 accord ground to battery then to the front header or front end radiator support.2002 civic battery ground to the front header or radiator support then to the block.Grounding the electrical Is very important in multiple places.My point on the ground wiring is CLEAR the 2003 up to 2010 FOR SURE does NOT have adequate ground cable's period for the electrical systems.Adding a simple 1 additional ground wire from the battery terminal to the block add's a benefit and not over costly in my opinion.To prove my point our 2004 Honda accord has NOT had 1 problem since my update's and cranks 100% everytime.FACTS prove's my points!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@freefree2021]

you could have just replaced the ground strap located near the serpentine belt, its 6 bucks

[@westabsupplyebay4093]

That is insanely low miles for a car over 10 years old, then. I have an 03 LX model with 310k miles on it and probably need a new starter, it starts barely, runs low then gets going when driving.

[@Ron1987]

@westabsupplyebay4093 The 2.4 k engine is just a solid engine.I would def replace that starter And the Fuel injection relay.The relay tends to fail after a new starter is installed.It will turn over all day,But not crank( relay is toast). WE currently own a 2018 accord sport 6 spd Manual!

[@YoungShizzie]

I’m having the same problem

[@rweaver912]

It may have a lifetime warranty, but look at the time, additional intake gasket and it'll happen at the worst time!

[@Ron1987]

RW I will say the slow cranking is something that occurs over a long time period.So really in Most cases this is the 1st occurrence of the problem whether its your car from new or used.That said I always suggest Replacing the PGM-F1 relay for the fuel injection reason being it the slow crank causes the relay to get HOT and will generally fail after you replace the starter.I will say I did our accord back sept of 2014 Zero problems to this day.If you have any further questions feel free to ask.I will say I did some upgrades with ground cables and the battery group Size and the whole job really took 2 hours.Thanks

[@aktafoo81]

+Ron1987 I think I might have a similar problem. I posted a video of me getting to start my car. It's 05 acura tsx similar engine. Can you please check out my video. Just want to get your thoughts on what it might be. Hopefully it's the same problem you where experiencing and I can fix it my self. Thanks.

[@ericvega996]

The problem with this video is TALKING WAYYYYY TOO MUCH . I couldn’t even follow since I had to skip threw the video sheeesh

[@Ron1987]

To put this simple.In order to help others understand the issues and steps it requires details.If for some reason you cannot understand that maybe refrain from watching videos.