2005 Volvo S40 Ignition Problem and Possible Source Explained

[@mac4boys541]

Another possible fix for electrical issues is the module under the glove box above foot well. Remove all electrical plugs and clean with electric contact cleaner, check all fuses clean any corrosion and check for moisture damage. This is a common problem on the volvo/ focus models. Lots of videos on that interweb video thingy

[@MrGman2804]

Yes. Spot on, although this is only a temporary fix. It will go wrong again. It's just a stupid design really. I have a Volvo V50 which if I had to rely on paying a garage to fix would be a write -off, but in any case it is just a headache, and I have completely lost confidence in its reliability. Just imagine what it will be like when used cars are 20 year old Tesla's? An ipad on wheels with an expensive battery and enough wire to go round the planet twice. I shall be sticking to keeping my older cars roadworthy, because at least if it breaks down I can fix it without needing fathom which electrical part has failed today! :)

[@lindelwakhumalo6520]

Thank you soo much. I was stuck so far away from home. Much appreciation from South Africa 🇿🇦

[@user-ey8wz9bn2k]

Have you car in Afrika

[@oraclearl_fx]

@@user-ey8wz9bn2k yip his Horse, Giraffe and favourite donkey broke down, now we're stuck using cars and shit technology

[@toms6756]

Hi, Thank you for posting this. I was having a problem with my C30 either not starting or not starting right up. It turns out the relay wasn't seated properly. Thanks again!

[@raffster1971]

I've had this issue over the last few days and this morning my V50 would not start. I re-seated the relay and the 15 amp fuse and it has fixed the issue. Thank you for sharing this, it has helped and saved me a large garage bill :-) One thing I might do if this happens again is to put a small piece of sponge (or something like that) on top of the relay so the fuse cover helps keep it seated....... just a thought. Thanks again

[@1BCamden]

Best advice so far, will have a look in the morning, thanks again

[@phillipviljoen3947]

Had the same problem got stuck on the road and had to tow the car home thanx for youre video and information it work for me asweel car started up again

[@stevebutler812]

You can try a hard reset, remove the negative battery cable for at least 30 seconds with the key out. Put the key back in and turn it to position two, and then reconnect the negative cable. I have found that randomly certain things in the car will stop working properly like the sun roof, the dome lights. I have checked every fuse and found them to be in perfect condition but then suddenly because I removed all the fuses and put them back in the problem will be solved but it's random which fuse will correct the issue. Another commenter recommended this, take out all the fuses and spray the fuse box, with the battery disconnected, with some electrical cleaner and clean the fuses with electrical cleaner and put them back in. I tend to find the key gets stuck, and the best repair so far, was taking a pair of pliers to the base of the key and forcing it into position 3 to start the car and then turning it back into off position and it caused that the key to work

[@hhoward14]

I found the problem eventually. It was low contact pressure on one of the relays. I took to carrying a small pin hammer so that I could slightly tap the relays to find the faulty one. It is no good tapping a relay that has "made" good contact. Wait until the problem occurs, open the bonnet, and gently tap each relay. On my car the gentlest touch, even a stroke, would cause the faulty relay to "make", and therby identify itself, as the fault would disappear. Great relief.....

[@hhoward14]

What I have also found is that the two "multi connectors " in the central under-bonnet area seem a bit "sensitive " to movement. I think they need to be carfully taken apart, cleaned, and lubricated. I would not do this as I had used up all of my WD40. What I did was to carfully "tap" the outside of the two connectors to loosen any internal "crud" I then lightly lubricated all of the outside gaps, in the hope of getting some into the "dirty" joint area. I gave it a lot of light careful tapping. I have just done two hours driving without any flickering of the lights, or "dead ship" starting syndrome. So we we shall see. When I get a dry day I will take the connectors apart and make a proper job with some silicone grease. Best regards.

[@louiscaluwaerts5380]

Hello, I have the same problem, which ones are those two multi connectors exactly? Are they located in the outside fuse box? Thanks a lot!

[@hhoward14]

On my 2007 XC70 I was plaged with this sort of thing, along with flickering lights at night. I carfully broke into three of the relays and cleaned the contacts with very fine abrasive paper. Relay No 6 was the one in my case. The so called "starter relay". Relays age and get a build up on the contacts. I my case 15 years and 130,000 miles. Very stressfull few months for me... I hope this helps ....

[@nabeeljacksonrhoda6480]

I have this issue now. I acquired a 2007 xc90 D5 from someone with the problem. Strange thing is that I started the car around 7 times... On and off... Checking things and on and off... To see if it would stall. On the 6th time it didn't Wana budge did the same thing in this video. Lights turns off and no sign of life. After a few attempts it started. I drove it home. It cranked and then it just didn't start since. So now we're going through all the smaller bits first, checking connections. Replaced battery and checked antenna ring, changed fob battery, tried to reset the immobilizer with the lock and unlock 5 times but nothing happened. So I think i need to clean the relay contacts and see if this works.

[@hhoward14]

In my case despite me temporarlly "curing" the mystery, the symptoms returned after a few weeks. Every time I clean or replace something it " cures" the problem, only to return later. The car has become a nightmare of unreliability, that no local garage or tech. Has any idea about. I have worked on allsorts of cars for sixty years. Don't get me started about changing the headlight bulbs..... They are a cruel joke.

[@bitchplease1114]

Thanks, mate

[@Sciencerifi]

Mine 2005 2.0d had similar problem. Changed ignition switch, no change of key, no coding, problem solved

[@endabeirne9322]

I have the sane problem if i jiggle the key it starts Which leads me to believe it must be the barrel And i was just wondering what you have now confirmed about a different barrell and would i have to get it coded I even have s new starter bought to go on it

[@Sciencerifi]

@@endabeirne9322 Get a used barrel and fit it. A few videos on KZbin on how to, you need a few torx bits and some flexible hands

[@endabeirne9322]

Yea did that got a secondhand barrel and fitted it works fine now No coding needed Thanks for the advice

[@michiel1362]

Great i will try it myself now

[@MrGman2804]

I have a V50 with a CEM fault. I have been driving 40 years and it is only in the past couple of years where electrical issues dominate the list of big faults with a car. So you can have a car with excellent mechanicals which becomes useless due to poor design of electrics. So I have just bought a 1999 E39 instead of a 2010 Volvo. That is my solution. Thanks for yours though. I won't be buying another Volvo

[@christophermeyer3306]

I have a 2008 Volvo S40 and had to replace the battery. Before replacing, the car ran good on the old battery. Now, after installing the new one, car won't start. I get nothing, not even a clicking sound... Do you think this could be the issue? A faulty relay? I should remind you that everything works inside/outside the vehicle: radio, lights, dashboard, etc.

[@hugeslacker]

That is a very strange problem. We have a t5 that cranks but won't start sometimes. It's been having a weird low fuel pressure warning even though the fuel pressure is 40psi. I did the fuel pressure sensor but that didn't fix it. Strange car.

[@ProdigyAutomotive]

Probably a bad fuel pressure regulator

[@hugeslacker]

@@ProdigyAutomotive lol thanks for reminding me! actually it ended up being valve issues. The car only had 35k miles at the time and was an 06. I had to do the whole top end though. And I found out years later that the Volvo dealer who repaired the engine apparently stripped at least one or the cam cover bolt threads so it's leaking oil. Waiting for it to need a timing belt to get into that headache.

[@scottbaddley72]

What exact message did u get on the your dash when this problem happened? My 2004 S40 says "key error". I removed the battery terminals for 30 min to let it reset a d put it back on and still got the same message...

[@lilylovepups]

Same as mine. How did you fix it?

[@scottbaddley72]

@@lilylovepups it ended up needing a new battery and that fixed everything...

[@clmym00]

hi Pete, did this solve your problem? having a similar situation - intermittent problem where the starter is really slow to engage, sometimes 10 seconds. checking the CEM revealed some moisture around the connectors. swapped starter relays to no avail. swapped starter fuse with blower fuse & touch wood, problem solved ....for now. Apparently the fuseboxes are an issue on these cars

[@rp2construction]

If you’re not having any luck It may also be an ignition switch

[@Oganne01]

how do you fix the key error issue?

[@sibongilemboniswa4759]

Bro help please my Volvo just had another engine,but now it won't start and it's kind of picking up but not keeping the idle O start properly

[@ottocustom]

Dude that mecansim for that key its an issue by the switch back the keyplace

[@seanheb6103]

Did you press the clutch while trying to start?

[@Sv_bleu]

Or try the batttery mines had the wrong size battery in the car it would only start with a jump...till that stopped working

[@wreckerjonny6144]

I just stuck the forks in it and stuck it in the lid crusher . Problem solved . I couldn't figure out what the problem with it . Ran perfect til battery went dead one night and pulled battery out to take it to get charged and put back in and it would not start it cranked over and had fuel pressure . But now it's on its way to China now

[@ifordavies5324]

If you put the steering to lock when you take the keys out will solve the problem

[@alexalavanyo7609]

The engine is on but the key can't remove ? Dat is the my probleme i won't solution can't help me sove the probleme

[@GreatIAm226]

Alex Alavanyo did you find out how to remove it?

[@DapMusicTV]

Just disconnect the batteries

[@zigzag7194]

Just in case anybody else is reading this 4 years later. If it's an automatic you will NOT get the key out unless it's in park. ( P )

[@BarbecuedPossum]

what is that knocking when it turns off.. doesnt sound right

[@supercalderon69]

My volvo c30 2007 didn't work. Time for regular message

[@andypearson2941]

I have a 2005 S40, all fine until a couple of days ago, ‘immobiliser see manual’ message appeared (and obviously wouldn’t start) this has now changed to ‘steering failure service required!’ Is this likely to be caused by a similar issue with relays / fuses? Many thanks in advance. Andy

[@Moneyeddie]

Andrew Pearson I’m having the same problem, have you found the solution to it?

[@johnmartinez4381]

Bcm going out. Very common issue.

[@desmodus4098]

+john martinez sorry, what’s the bcm? I’m have the immobilizer message keep popping up and I can’t start my car sometimes

[@graemewhite5029]

Drop down the relay box under the passenger glove box. Remove all the multi pin connectors and spray them with a decent contact cleaner and reassemble. I do this on my '06 V50 once or twice a year. Usually shows up as "anti skid service reqd" but random lights appear on the display and usually won't crank the engine. Got 217,000 miles on the old diesel donkey now.

[@emy7990]

@@graemewhite5029 Same here, I ve got all kind of messages: anti skid, immobilizer, BCM....wipers on for no reason....removed the CEM, cleaned all connections and all good. Its been a few months since and no messages, except the washer fluid warning when is empty :) Volvo the weakest spot is electric side.

[@TheMac01mac]

I had similar problem, changed battery and resolved issue.

[@GadgetmanKentuckiana]

S40 sat for about 6 months and battery went dead. Put a good battery in and won't crank or come out of park. Pulled codes and found P0603. Cleared and came back after another failed attempt at starting. KAM voltage low.

[@charlieoscar2714]

IT NEEDS A NEW BATTERY

[@onabowuganiu4033]

how to fix belt

[@rynopot]

Hope this solves my problem. Alread ydid what the other video clip showed, and checked all connectors in the Computer unit under the dash. That made it better, but still not perfect. This one : kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHncdmuMopaEf6M

[@publicidadcreativa219]

catalyst

[@clabouch]

I Had similar issue with my v50 2005. But also had weird transmission behaviors while on the road. The automatic transmission was refusing to pass to the 3rd speed (blocked on 2nd). The entire problem was solved by replacing the battery wth a new one. The old battery had at least 7-8 years. You can take a look at what was happening here kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3mrkmCNgsanqtk