2011-2015 Chevy Cruze Front Rotor and Pads

this quick video will show you how to change the front rotor and pads on your chevy cruze. One tip for you, when removing the 10mm caliper bolt use a 6 point socket or wrench. a 12 point will easily round it off because it is a softer metal.
Follow VGAPR Garage on
Facebook vgapr97
Instagram @JoshuaTPotter
Email [e-mail]

[@dougsmith2824]

Thanks for doing these video's. Gave me the confidence at 68 to tackle the job myself.

[@danhernandez3325]

Just wanted to say I changed my first set of brakes and rotors today on the car...this vid was right on point for how to do it! Appreciate the diy vid! Recommend for everyone.

[@malikwilliams9885]

You should also add that when changing the rotors to use some brake clean to get the oil off that manufacturers put on them to preserve for shelf life

[@michaeljohnson2371]

Malik Williams ok Chris fixx

[@PsychoSimmons209]

Wire brush on a drill works good too

[@svennykennyheller6332]

AMEN!!

[@GrnArrow092]

It's great to know that this is something I can do by myself on my own Cruze. The only drawback doing this on my own is that I don't have a garage and it's too cold to do this outside this time of the year. I would love to change my stock rotors out for something higher quality at some point because the ones that the shop installed don't last very long before they start to warp.

[@geraldfahey2681]

I bought my Chevy cruze brand new,now it has 125000 miles on it,with original rotors

[@svennykennyheller6332]

My STOCK rotors(we bought the 14 brand new) on my 14 Cruze warped at around 50K miles

[@Autofixpals]

Nice video. When using impact tools be mindful that extensions rob you of power. Avoid extensions if you can when using impact tools.

[@chrisfelkins6147]

I would have liked to see you disassemble brake pads and how you filed the hardware that you mentioned, other than that pretty confident with tackling this repair tomorrow. Thank you

[@brandonbond769]

Did the job today with no problems. Thanks for the video!

[@kevinrickard247]

Doing mine this weekend. Found this video very informative. Thankyou and keep up the great work

[@svennykennyheller6332]

Nice job!! I just did my Silverado and this procedure is very much the same just smaller parts. Offering 1 suggestion, remind viewers to use brake cleaner on rotors B4 installing pads is all I got, Otherwise Excellent video, would give 4.8 Stars

[@brmdlm123]

Nice video for doing the front brakes. I would add cleaning off the new rotors with brake cleaner very well, using a T-30 Torx bit to get the rotor off and putting the wear bracket on the brake pad in the rear and at the top (video showed the bottom).

[@aarongomez4564]

Thank you so much for this video, this was so helpful. And it saves me a whole lot of money, God bless

[@jth1987leb]

AARON GOMEZ welcome. Glad I could help

[@davidh5056]

Hi thanks for your reply.I have been an automotive tech for 38 years. . . . Licensed at that !!!!.It took 10,000 hours of in shop and school training to become a certified and red seal Technician here in Canada.I just like pointing out things so people do not make mistakes over and over . . . . People get killed because of this. Best wishes from Canada

[@myamaha62]

I use a c clamp on the calipers to close them up. I do that first thing before anything is removed. I think it's easier on the seals. One side on the back of the caliper and the other on the rotors. I use a cloth to keep from scratching the rotors

[@nojerome497]

I just jacked up my car, removed the wheel, and then realized that the caliper bracket bolt was 18mm... I only have 17mm/19mm. Should have watched this video first. Thanks!

[@davidteets5033]

5:20....yes you need to put a lil bit of antisieze on the wheel studs. Especially considering how tight they were. And i personally leave those screws out that retain the rotors. They just hold the rotors on as the car came down the assembly line is what i always heard.

[@svennykennyheller6332]

Me, I would still use the T30 rotor screws, after all, what's it gonna hurt??

[@ty-ler14]

Great vid and very informative! This is my first time seeing your channel though, could you link me to a video that shows where you show how to do the filing of that hardware?

[@piggywiggyxX]

Very good video!! I’m about to do my husbands brakes and I was wondering was sockets and tools to use. Thank you 😊 I never thought of using anti seize lube on the hub. Not a bad idea. I’ll have to try that!! 👍🏻

[@trizzle1974]

WHAT lol

[@erickgalloway1393]

Great video Very helpful heads up for my upcoming brake job Thank you!

[@10star80]

Excellent Video!!!! Thank you very much for the very thorough information!!

[@fernandojaimes6330]

Thank you, that was a good video. Good way to explain to new people doing it.

[@breezbroccoli3761]

seen a spider cross by you at 7:20 good video helped me change my breaks very easy thanks

[@Danieltagg5190]

Thanks for the video man. Doing my 2011 next weekend

[@BJ-lc1vk]

Also remember to grease the slide pins

[@davemcglynn]

I was surprised to find that the slide-pin isn't removed in this procedure - the bolts he removed thread into the slide pin.

[@rayelrod4792]

got a 2013 cruze. bought the car new just started hearing scrubbing in the right front wheel coming back from the mountains. when applying the breaks. This will be the first break job for this car.

[@dancurrier6421]

hello I replaced front pads and rotors on 2015 Chevy Cruze every time press the brakes to stop sounds like it is grinding on the left side of the car any help would be appreciated

[@doaldodemoya9412]

Man I was "recommended" by gm to replace all 4 pads and rotors for only $2800 us dls, I checked online and they are like 400 top on parts online, so I guess this video just saved me $2400

[@jth1987leb]

That is crazy. Glad I could help

[@darrenpea2498]

Thanks for the video very helpful and informative.

[@jth1987leb]

Darren Pea you're welcome. I'm glad I could help

[@jeffreycraigii9608]

Definitely some good info, but for anyone doing this job, for the love of God, torque your bolts to factory specs! Your lug nuts are not the only thing that needs to be torqued.

[@lanejohnson8552]

Helpful video thanks. I would have liked to know what the torque values are for the caliper bolts.

[@trizzle1974]

If that little impact didn't do it I bet 130-160ft lbs

[@jeffreycraigii9608]

No, that little impact definitely wouldn’t do it. Those bolts should be torqued to 74 ft lbs.

[@bfries26]

Good video but.......IMO it's worth the extra minute to remove, clean and regrease the 2 sliders or at least to confirm that move freely in and out. They should be held with am 18mm wrench when tightening the 2 10mm (head) bolts that retain the caliper. Just using your finger may not work every time.

[@anthonyv3751]

Thanks for the video, very well done and easy to follow

[@lewismorehouse]

Thank you so much!! I found this very helpful and informative.

[@SicillianmanDon]

Looks easy enough. thanks for the vid

[@funkyzero]

Hope you don't mind a couple of tiny criticisms (I can't help myself)... the screw holding the rotor on is completely unnecessary and is really only there for the manufacturing process. I tend to just leave them out because eventually they get rusted in there and wont come out, forcing them to be drilled. Putting them back is completely optional as they do nothing but hold on the rotor from falling off on the assembly line. In addition, anti-seize isn't a proper lubricant, it actually has abrasives in it. It's better to use the proper silicone brake grease on the sliders. Also, the guide pin boots should be discarded and replaced, and the guide pins cleaned and lubricated with proper silicon brake grease.

[@martingalvan4841]

What size is the torque bit ? Good video already knew how to so brakes just wanted to make sure there was no special step i didnt know about the torque bit 🤔

[@jth1987leb]

martin galvan I want to say it’s a T5

[@yomiflz1287]

More chevy cruz videosplease

[@sunilcherianpullockaran8817]

Be very careful of where you place the piston assembly. It was too close for comfort to the rubber boot that holds the grease in for the drive shaft bearing. I had mine go kaput for exactly the same reason where a sharp edge of the brake piston assembly damaged the boot and the replacement was pretty darn expensive.

[@piggywiggyxX]

I just use the brake piston gun tool. I cringed just a tad when he poked it with the screw driver. Lol

[@svennykennyheller6332]

Good advice!!!!! I didn't know this!!!

[@RandyOrton1099]

Okay sir, I did everything you did & my brakes are still squeaking terribly. Any suggestions?

[@jth1987leb]

Did you use OEM pad material? Did you follow the bed in process? Where the pads moving freely in the caliper bracket? Is the caliper in good working order?

[@AC-ou4om]

7:18 YOU SEE THAT SPIDER?

[@russellelhardt9888]

You said something about filing? And that filing is in one of your other videos? Where is that?

[@valdasv9874]

thanks a lot man, just changed mine with my dad, didnt have silicone hope thats still ok

[@ty-ler14]

Is this the same procedure as doing the back rotors and pads?

[@jth1987leb]

No

[@kingofthekingsking6174]

Every nice if you mention what type of tools size you were using

[@jonntek]

I didn't see you bleeding the breaks. This is my first new car. Is that still necessary. Sorry noob question.

[@maastodon115]

You only need to bleed the brakes if you open up the system. As in if you take the brakes lines off etc. Although it isn't always a bad idea to bleed the brakes when doing a brake job.

[@cranborile]

Maybe clean the rust off the hub be4 installing the new rotor so it sits flat!!

[@Hey_its_Koda]

My moms car brakes on her "15 cruze is sqeaking. I cant tell which ones if it front or back. Do i need to replace both? Are rear back brakes similar process? What prices am i looking at? Thanks.

[@jth1987leb]

Ninja k if you’re not sure take the wheels off and look at pads and both sides of the rotors. Often the outboard sigh of the rotor looks great but the inboard side is damaged. It is similar but it’s possible that the rear piston is a screws in type which requires a special tool. Price all depends on where you’re getting the parts and the brands.

[@riddelsp33d47]

The rear brakes will most likely be drums. It’s a more difficult process in my opinion. But can be fixed. Good luck!

[@josepinela4636]

Good Job !

[@jimpowell9205]

Would it be a good idea to R&R the wheel bearings, at the same time?

[@jth1987leb]

I’m not to sure what r&r is

[@jimpowell9205]

@@jth1987leb R&R = Remove and Replace

[@jth1987leb]

@@jimpowell9205 no. Only replace a wheel bearing if it’s bad

[@josepinela4636]

Good Job! Congratulations!

[@djgtx11]

Well put together nice vid!!!

[@jth1987leb]

djgtx11 thanks. I'm glad you like

[@Gabriel.4190]

Decent video, but without torque specs I rate this video 6/10

[@aroger6470]

Do you not have to bleed the breaks after replacing them? Just pump them?

[@jth1987leb]

I don’t bleed the brakes when replacing rotors and pads. Yes. Pump the brakes before driving after you replace your rotors and pads.

[@michaelpanacheese604]

Good job nice video. Can you make one for changing the bearings? Also please and thank you.

[@marcyharper3351]

Do you need to bleed the brake lines? Did you loosen the cap on the master cylinder to make it easier to press in the piston in?

[@jth1987leb]

Marcy Harper no and no. There isn't a need to bleed the line. You can take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir but it don't make you that much of a differences. Just compress the piston slowly.

[@dancurrier6421]

you didn't answer my question at all

[@kristianfennell5191]

dont let it hang by the brake like just wear the CV joint boot instead haha saving one thing to wreck another

[@maurice3485]

when changing front breaks do you have change rotors or was that an extra step cause that is what the car needed?

[@jth1987leb]

I recommend doing both. The rotors are worn to old pads so there will be less friction surface(stopping power) until the new pads wear into the rotor.

[@jth1987leb]

Bilbo Baggins turn down rotors is a waste of money. You pay to turn them then you'll need to rotors at some point, but because you put on new pad with the turned rotors you'll need new pads as well. Rotors for this car are 20-30 dollars. Just spend the money and do it once.

[@ImGtnFaceBabyy]

So nothing needs to be torqued?

[@lovelynevryway1]

Hi, which video shows you filing the brake hardware. This looks like a pretty simple process, just want to make sure I have all the steps down first.

[@jth1987leb]

Alana Austin my most recent video on a Hyundai elentra will show you how to file the caliper bracket. You don't file into the bracket, you file off the rust so when the brake pad hardware and pads are installed the pads will move freely

[@lovelynevryway1]

VGAPR Garage okay thank you!

[@julioojeda6539]

gracias por la explicación muy bueno el video👍

[@jth1987leb]

julio ojeda de nada

[@petereberly4449]

Thanks

[@jth1987leb]

Peter eberly welcomes.

[@josinkz1]

Great Video,Thank you

[@jth1987leb]

Josin Kozhukkottayil thanks.

[@daniellea6886]

How or when do you know it’s time to change the rotor? How long do they typically last between changes?

[@jth1987leb]

Danielle A for this customers car that lasted until almost 100000 miles. The life of brakes depends on how the driver drives. Many brake pads have a wear indicator on them, which is just a piece of metal, that will cause a load metal on metal noise when the pad material is getting low and needs to be changed. A vibration or pulsating of the car that can be felt throughout brake peddle is a sigh the rotors are warped due to heat and need replacing. You notice it seems to longer and you have to push the brake peddle harder to come to a stop. Those are a few examples

[@daniellea6886]

VGAPR Garage thanks for responding. I’be got a squealing problem but when I looked at my brakes there was plenty of pad left since they were last changed about a year or 2 ago. The rotors seem fine. Nothing rusted or dirty looking.Not really sure what else it could be

[@Dillyonline]

hey i like the video, very informative but i had a few questions. i have a 2015 cruze LT RS which files under LT when looking for parts BUT 1.) Curious to know about piston compression, heard that you need to open something up to allow brake fluid pressure to escape somewhere so you dont damage the lines? true or false? 2.) with the pads themselves, as you see in your video one pad has tapered edges and the other does not, does it matter which one goes where? and 3.) my rotors only have 40k miles on them so do you think it would be alright to delay replacing rotors for a couple months until i can scratch up the change to buy new ones? appreciate you reading this and hope to hear from you soon!!

[@jth1987leb]

Preston Muniz never ever replace just rotors or pads. Replace them together so they wear into each other. It's someone's opinion/Choice if they want to open the bleeder when compressing the piston. I don't because there's no need to. Just compress the piston slowly and you'll be fine. You can't really compress the piston fast because of the pressure from the system. Some people say it will damage the master cylinder. I have been doing this for years and never had that happen. Some pad sets come with a wear indicator on them. That pad is meant to be the inner bad. I hope that helps. I'll send you my bill. Laugh.

[@svennykennyheller6332]

@@jth1987leb Excellent ADVICE!! Do both is what "I WAS TAUGHT!!"

[@jth1987leb]

@@svennykennyheller6332 people or shops that replace one or the other are hacks and should not be working on cars.

[@robg9574]

Really useful! Thank you!

[@malibujunky94]

would this be the same for 2013 Malibu LTZ

[@jth1987leb]

it will be vert similar

[@danwat1234]

4:10 T30, at least on its brother the Volt.

[@doobing]

What size torx

[@vazqez5728]

you didn't check the deflection in the brake disc

[@Gabbie101derful]

Where do i buy the parts for my 2011 chevy cruze brakes and rotors

[@jth1987leb]

Gabbie101derful I usually have my customers order their parts from rockauto.com from a cart I build for them. But any parts store will do

[@tuca4441]

When changing the brakes, don't you have to be careful of the censors?

[@quiltqueen4318]

Thanks so much!!

[@LTVoyager]

Not good practice to install fasteners with impact tools. Critical fasteners should be torqued properly with a torque wrench.

[@longhorns12557]

The torques bit, what’s the size?

[@davidleigh5211]

T 30

[@LTVoyager]

And the slide pins should cleaned and greased at each brake change.

[@yilancio]

Why didn't u clean off the 2lbs of rust & loose debris off the hub after u removed the old rotor? U schmeared anti-seize into all the rust & loose debris! Hopefully ur rotor sits flush to the hub with all the crap schmeared together, like the consistency of crunchy peanut butter underneath it lol! U should have also sprayed down ur greasy fingerprints off the new rotor! sorry bro, but im all about clean.

[@jth1987leb]

asdflkjh the contact points from hub to rotor are a small inside and out side lip on the hub. The rotor would only sit 100 percent flush if it was on a brand new hub. But this brake system has a flooring caliper set up so it's made for slight imperfections as the rotor turns and can still apply all braking force and not get a vibration the brakes like a brembo caliber for example.

[@gregoryellison3061]

Spider at 7:18!! Kill it!

[@davidh5056]

Hi again even if a customer trades a car fix it like they will own it for ten more years. Now opening a bleeder dies put air in system but also lets dirt, moisture trapped in brake lines and calipers be expelled and here is a question . . . . Do you know what type of seal is behind piston.Here's a hint its rubber but what type and do you know how and why it works !!! Food for you viewers !!

[@Lott0Jay]

Damn the torque screw is a bitch thanks man!!

[@davidh5056]

Some tips and things you did wrong : A impact or hand tools have more torque on a shorter distance.Why us a 6'' extension for removal. Big mistake . . . . Never push piston on caliper in without bleeder open.This will damaged seal inside caliper and push dirt towards master cylinder. You didn't clean up hub at all.Leaving rust behind his greatest source for brake pulsating.

[@jth1987leb]

David H wrong. You don’t need to open the bleeder. It doesn’t do anything to the master cylinder. The amount of pressure I apply to one piston is nothing compared to the pressure the brake system is under when you press on the brake pedal. You want to keep the brake system closed to avoid adding air into the system. Duh. I used a 6 inch extension because I wanted to. Hell, I could have put all my extensions together and removed the bolt that way. Just because it’s not the way you would do it doesn’t mean it’s wrong. Yeah. I should have removed the rust from the hub. I think the customer traded it in though.

[@Zezims]

7:20 HUGE Spider... just passing by

[@danielkirk9261]

is that a T20 or T30 bit?

[@jth1987leb]

Daniel Kirk I'm going to guess T20. The bit doesn't say nor does it holder. But T20 is the common size to use

[@BentertainmentVT]

I just did mine and it was a T30 bit

[@johnjohnjohnjohn-xe9me]

U didn't clean the rotors and u put grease from ur fingers all over the rotor

[@michaelvandenavont665]

Good general information, but sorely lacking in anything which SHOULD be mentioned. Most pads come with special anti-squeal paste...use it, rather than substituting anti-seize compound which is NOT made for that purpose. Clean your rotor and caliper assemblies prior to AND after installation of new parts with brake cleaner spray (before to reduce dangerous dust...wear a mask anyways...and after to remove grease and dust from your braking surfaces). And lastly, if you're going to do the job right, always use a manual means to "break" your bolts loose FIRST or you risk much more expensive repairs if you break or strip a bolt in place. When re-tightening....NEVER EVER use a impact gun! Use a hand tool, snug up the bolt and give it an extra 1/4 turn. Use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to the PROPER MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED ft/lbs. per sq./in. torque. Seen too many sheared wheel bolts and the end results of wheels flying off to recommend someone blissfully tightening lugs to three or four times the recommended torque rating.

[@jth1987leb]

Michael Van den Avont I’m going to guess you skipped through the video. I literally mention I clean the mating surfaces on the caliper bracket 5:55. Some boxes of pads don’t come with anti seize. You may use a “anti squeal” pastes but it’s just anti seize. Impact vs hand tools is a personal preference.

[@justinv3080]

You should clean the hub where the rotors meets it, the rust buildup will cause the rotors to not be perfectly flat

[@valleyelectric6846]

why no anti-seize on the wheel studs?

[@jth1987leb]

Valley Electric never ever put anti-seize on wheel studs. Makes it hard to get proper torque spec and it's possible that the lug nuts will back off

[@semicroquant3420]

I always put anti-seize on my studs. In years, never found a single loose lug nut on my vehicules. When torqued properly its all fine.

[@timsmith3273]

I’ve been a mechanic most of my life never in my life have I seen someone take anti-seize and put it just on the brake pad ends 😂 you got to gunk that anti-seize all over the brake shimes or your just gonna have to keep changing them just saying 👍🏻

[@jth1987leb]

Tim Smith been doing it this way for years. Never had an issue or complaint. Maybe you don’t live in the salt belt

[@kgb8912]

We do that here too put a dap of anti seize on it also I personally relube the slider pins everytime I change pads had some get stuck on me before wore the one side out and wrecked the new rotor

[@damvp4]

Should’ve watched the whole video I didn’t have a extension 18mm .

[@edbelanger1217]

Brake cleaner and also you shouldve greesed the sliders...other then that easy peasy

[@legodude19999]

Just went to do my brakes and the parts house gave me the wrong fucking pads, so now I'm not gonna be able to make it to work tomorrow cause the brakes are all off the car! God damn

[@jth1987leb]

legodude19999 that is always the worst. Where did you order them from?

[@legodude19999]

@@jth1987leb local parts place, got on the horn with them just before they closed and they'll have the proper pads dropped off at 6:00am for me So i can get em done before work!

[@jth1987leb]

legodude19999 I don’t do it in this video but make sure to clean any rust off the hub surface

[@legodude19999]

@@jth1987leb 100% I already took a wire wheel on my drill and cleaned up the whole hub/ knuckle assembly. Also repainted the calipers black and a couple clean up things while it's apart

[@fuckfuckmcgee69fuckfuckmcg63]

Informative video, but that impact is weak as fuck!!!

[@jermainecoleswagg]

I had about a half inch to clear once it was time to put the caliper back on after the new pads... im stuck lol HELP

[@jth1987leb]

Jermaine Coleman did you fully compressor the caliper piston?

[@jermainecoleswagg]

VGAPR Garage dont know how

[@jth1987leb]

Jermaine Coleman I’m pretty sure how to compress the piston in the video.

[@martinrs69]

Get you some Real tools....

[@LRone-e2f]

what the fuck

[@leegmc1985]

I always cringe when i see people compress the piston, without the bleeder screw cracked open. yes it can make a mess,but i am Leary of pushing old fluid(with possible contaminates) back up to the ABS control unit or even the master cylinder.

[@jth1987leb]

leegmc1985 well we all have own way of doing things. I live in ny where the bleeder screws can be to rusted to open. If you compress slowly there is no risk. Plus if it was high chance of damaging other brake parts they wouldn't make so many tools to compress the piston. Also, brake fluid will eat paint so I try to avoid it when ever I can.

[@apdcarson4490]

those battery impacts are a joke

[@upnorth5465]

Have yet to find anything automotive wise my Milwaukee 1/2 inch high torque will not loosen. (1400 lbs ft reverse and 1000 fastenining) I don't miss dragging an air hose everywhere one bit. Not even GM and their evil red lock tight they put on everything will make it hesitate.

[@nuwandax1970]

lmao throw that fuel impact tool in the trash, its garbage. completely useless for a job like this. stop blaming its battery or the tight log nuts and bolts. its a friggin car, most of those bolts and log nuts are tight. otherwise it would fall apart in mid drive. get yourself a quality impact driver from makita or milwaukee or dont use one at all and loosen them by hand

[@jth1987leb]

Nuwanda84 you contradicted yourself in this comment. It is a Milwaukee product. I only use the M12 line now and use the higher capacity batteries have no issue getting nuts and bolts off. The M18 line up is shit and was all stolen from my garage

[@thehoff3189]

Never flathead the Piston, use a Piston compressor tool so you don't ruin it (edit: nevermind it depends on the caliper, in this case it's fine)

[@jth1987leb]

James Hoffman Jr. I did not touch the piston with the flathead. I put the flathead in the rotor and used it as a pry bar to compressor the piston. Watch the video.

[@thehoff3189]

VGAPR Garage I was always told the Piston needs to turn at the same time as pressing it in, is that incorrect?

[@jth1987leb]

James Hoffman Jr. it all depends on the caliper. Your normal passenger car one piston floating front caliper can just be pushed in. You can use a C clamp, large pliers or many of the other tools on the market. But many of the new rear calipers, with integrated parking/emergency brake springs or motors have to be screwed in with the aid of specialty tools that you can order on eBay or get at the parts store(eBay is cheaper).

[@thehoff3189]

Ok good to know, thanks man

[@rollmeister]

So much time wasted

[@bobvasquez1846]

This is a poor video.

[@jth1987leb]

Let’s use our words. What makes it a poor video?

[@lcit9690]

Thanks I have a 2013 I am doing. Giving it to my 16 year old

[@raylenegabriola4227]

Thanks for video helpme a lot!!!!