2014-2019 Toyota Highlander Updated Oil Change Guide For V6 and Hybrid

Here's a video for a 2017 Toyota Highlander XLE AWD V6 Non-Hybrid oil change with step by step instructions. This video works for all 3rd Generation V6 Highlanders trims (SE, XLE, XSE, Limited, Platinum) from 2014 to 2019. The Third Generation Highlander is the trusty and reliable 2GR-FKS V6.
Up To Date DIY Guide For Your 2014-2019 Toyota Highlander Oil Change
Some links below are affiliate links. The links are no additional cost to you and help me create more videos like this for KZbin. Additionally, if you'd like to support the channel: please give it a like and subscribe with one-click here / @mldiy .
Need a starter tool set for oil changes? This one is great: amzn.to/3EiqF4Y
If you purchase anything because of this video, let me know with a comment below to let me know my video was helpful. Thank you!
00:00 Prep and drain oil
03:27 New oil filter
05:44 Reset Maintenance
Thanks for watching!
2014-2019 Toyota Highlander Oil Changes Tools, Parts and Torque Specs below.
Tools list
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3/8" Ratchet - amzn.to/3AaJWmw
14mm Socket
Flathead screwdriver
64MM Oil Wrench - amzn.to/3I81zbO
Jack stands
Ramps - Get Rhino Ramps at $50 here amzn.to/3GP77qA
Unless you can find the Harbor Freight ramps on sale/coupon: tinyurl.com/ycx3xasj
Oil pan and empty jugs to bring old oil to your local AutoZone/O Reilly's
The set I'm using for most of my recent videos is Gearwrench 232-Piece Mechanics Tool Set that comes with 90-tooth ratcheting wrenches! Still on sale at Home Depot for $199, what my video and get links here: • STILL AVAILABLE: Gearw...
Parts List
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5.8 Quarts - 0W-20 Synthetic Oil - 00279-0wqte-6s or I like Castrol too: amzn.to/49csTjz
Oil Filter Kit - 04152YZZA1 - amzn.to/4bjhVdO
Drain Plug Gaskets - amzn.to/3ZdLxmS
While I'm linking OEM Toyota Parts to Amazon but YMMV, it may be cheaper just to go to your local Toyota dealership.
Torque Specs and Capacity
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5.8 Quarts of 0w-20 full synthetic oil meeting the ILSAC GF6A standard
Oil pan drain plug: 30 lb-ft
Oil filter housing: 18 lb-ft
Oil filter housing plug: 10 lb-ft
My torque wrench recommendation: amzn.to/4bKQZnb
Keywords
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About the Metaloop Channel
Join me on my journey to become an ASE Certified Mechanic and inspire folks to work on their own cars. Along the way, I'll unbox tools and build a mechanic's toolbox from scratch on the DIYers budget. Join me and learn from my mistakes as I embark on car repair and maintenance.
This channel is for entertainment purposes only. Always double check any information provided for accuracy.

[@juniormendoza4592]

Great video! I would like to add some great advice! 1. ⁠Always always loosen the oil filter first before draining the engine oil especially if you weren’t the last person to change it or if the dealer has done it for you recently, it will more than likely have been over torqued. Nothing sucks more than having to put in new oil with an old filter that you couldn’t remove just to get it to the shop to get it removed. There’s a lot of ways to remove them but sometimes they are almost welded on there. 2. ⁠I’m sure you did this but I didn’t see it in the video, always do an oil filter leak check after starting the engine. Although rare, the o rings for these filters can be defective and cause small leaks. Rev the engine for about 10 seconds, grab your light and just double check that oil filter.

[@mldiy]

Really appreciate the advice. I'm pinning this so others will see it too! Thank you for taking the time.

[@Cdr306]

One other - leave the plastic drain tube attached while removing the canister housing. Oil will continue to drain as you turn it. That’s my experience

[@alanbisi716]

One of the best DIY videos I’ve ever watched! Thank you!

[@mldiy]

Hi Alan, your kind words bring me great joy. The goal of my channel is to up the quality level of DIY guides for car maintenance. Its great to hear from folks like you to let me know I'm taking steps in the right direction. Thanks for taking the time to watch and for leaving this comment. 🙏

[@davidmata6964]

Thank you for the video. Gunna be bold and admit even though I’ve been doing oil changes since I was a child, I hadn’t ever replaced a filter like these before and I messed up that process last time a changed the oil thinking to myself how hard can it be. About $100 later costing me a service visit and all the supplies I had originally purchased to do it myself, I had to take my highlander in to the dealership and to get it properly done because I broke the housing. Did it right this time thanks to the video.

[@marlonrod1974]

Excellent step ny step video with no unnecessary info.

[@mldiy]

I really appreciate the comment. Thanks so much for watching. I hope it helped you out.

[@WayneHayesDLH]

what an absolutely fabulous DIY video. Perfect! So thorough and clear.

[@mldiy]

Thank you so much, I am really glad it helped you out. Appreciate the like and subscribe as well!

[@ernestogonzalez3945]

Thanks

[@mldiy]

Glad the oil change guide was helpful, thanks for watching and commenting.

[@jcstarion88]

Best video out here🎉

[@mldiy]

Appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thanks for your support!

[@peace2395]

very good video😀

[@mldiy]

Thanks so much for the comment and (if you haven't already) for liking and subscribing. It really helps me out. Much appreciated!

[@texasmud91]

Your video is great! I have a question. I've never dealt with a filter housing design. why can't the housing just be pulled off and the new filter and large O-ring be replaced, with out doing the drain plug for the housing? I get I must be missing something, but it just looks like something extra. My real thought is why take the chance in breaking something?

[@mldiy]

Hi Texas Mud (great name btw), excellent question and you sound like a person used to spin-on oil filters. If you remove the housing without draining, it'll behave exactly like a spin-on where it's a little messy but you'll get the job done faster. The OEM filter kit does come with the plastic drain tool though, so if you felt inclined to keep things tidy, it's there for you. Much appreciate the comment and thank you for taking the time to watch.

[@mldiy]

It's been almost a full year since I released my first video, which just happened to be an oil change for a 4th Generation Toyota Highlander kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWecaXWihNambac I guess I'll work my way backward so sometime in the next twelve months I'll find and make a guide for a 2nd gen Highlander. Thank you all for your support by liking and subscribing.

[@fredcooksey191]

Quick question: Do you know if the process you showed is any different for a HYBRID model? (I have a 2019 Highlander Hybrid.) Thanks for the great information-very clear and easy to follow.

[@mldiy]

Hi Fred, yes, I believe in the 3rd gen Highlander they just put a hybrid system along side the 3.5L V6. I haven't done one personally, so I recommend just taking a quick look underneath your car and seeing if the oil filter housing looks the same. If so, I think you'll be good to use the parts list in my video. Please update me if you do confirm, I'd like to be 100% sure for the next person. Thanks for your subscribe and like as well!

[@fredcooksey191]

@@mldiy Thanks for the info, and YES, I can confirm that this is exactly the same for the Hybrid model. Just finished my first oil change, and your video made it very easy. Thanks again. Subscribed.

[@dsrcvideos]

I have found that after removing all the oil and changing the filter, I add just 5 quarts and the dipstick is in range but adding any more than that and the dipstick shows oil level (way) over the max. Yet the stated capacity is 5.8 quarts. Any ideas why I see this is happening?

[@mldiy]

Hi, sometimes you have to let the oil settle before reading the dipstick. I think, especially on Toyotas, when you first pull the dipstick out, the oil works up the tube and gets smears back on the dipstick when you put the dipstick back in. Besides that though, are you starting the car after 5 quarts and letting the new oil run through the system? You can also check how much oil came out of the vehicle. If you're only seeing about 5 quarts come out (for example) than something might be happening like the car is on a grade or there might be a dent in the oil pan or something that making the oil not fully drain out. Generally you're doing it right, since you do get a good reading at 5 quarts, and since the min and max line represents about 1 quart, you can use that to gauge how much more oil you need. e.g. if you read it in the middle at 5 quarts, then you should only add another .5 quarts. I hope this helps.