2014 Chevrolet Silverado, Fuse Block Replacement

This 2014 Chevrolet Silverado was towed in after the customer attempted to jump start a friends vehicle. Proving that you really need pay attention to what you are doing. My guess is that they either connected the cables backwards or they attempted to jump start from one of the studs rather than at the main battery terminal.
In the process of changing the fuse block I also had to bypass a damaged connector by using an in line J case fuse holder.

[@milepost107]

After a week of trouble shooting and anxiety I found this video. I figured it was worth a shot and ordered a new one on Amazon and sure enough this was it. Thanks for saving me a ton of money and frustration!

[@SparkysAnswers]

Glad to hear you were able to fix your truck after watching this video.

[@bishop5166]

It's 2024. Everyone should own a jump starter box. They're small and easy to use and not expensive. I will never jump start another vehicle with my vehicle again.

[@SparkysAnswers]

Agreed, at least one in every family.

[@damiengantt7088]

Thank you! Your information helped me out big time

[@SparkysAnswers]

You are welcome. thanks for commenting.

[@JohnJohn-tu8jo]

Did the bridge with a fuse and an unused post, mounted them. Truck starts and has power now but tells me service power steering and battery on dash is showing below 12 but gives me 12 on a multimeter

[@SparkysAnswers]

With the ignition Off, check to see if there is missing power at one of the studs and/or at the output post at the alternator.

[@cray8705]

I had something similar happen on my 16, but the wrenches slipped when I was tightening the negative battery post and hit the stud you are talking about. I’m wondering if replacing the block assembly fixed the problem?

[@SparkysAnswers]

If you are asking if replacing the fuse block assembly in the truck I was working on then yes, it did. If you are asking if it will fix your truck, I do not know without some test results. Have you tested for power at each of the studs that has a fuse element attached to it? Also we replaced the entire assembly because there was burn damage at one of the push on terminals. I wound up by passing that burnt terminal because a replacement pigtail was no longer available. Had I have known that originally I would have just replaced the fuse element board instead of the whole assembly. It would have been cheaper.

[@Lonzo214.]

I blew out one of the terminals and a mechanic friend just moved it to the next one up I don’t know how I recently got a new alternator and battery and it ran good for a while and now I keep getting battery saver active and sometimes I get stalibreak on do I need to replace the whole thing?

[@SparkysAnswers]

@@Lonzo214. As long as the terminals at the blue connector look good you should be able to just replace the fuse assembly and not the whole fuse Block assembly. Before doing that, I would check to make sure the alternator is still charging properly. If it is not, that will need to be fixed first. If it is, then changing the fuse insert and restoring the wiring to the original locations would be the best starting point.

[@hammersticks7138]

I literally did the same. Left the cover off when installing a new battery. Accidentally caught a post putting the negative back on. And messed up the fuse going to the middle post which took out my power steering. Now I got to get a pdb from Chevy and that’s gonna cost me about $140.

[@84bmw325e]

I am wondering if I could get something similar for my 11 sierra. The I can't tighten down the connector enough so I was thinking of replacing it with something like this.

[@SparkysAnswers]

Which connector will not tighten down enough?

[@84bmw325e]

The one on the post. There is a lead shim that I can get. This setup would be nice. I have an amp and a duel battery that I use large fuses.

[@SparkysAnswers]

@@84bmw325e Usually the battery post shims are a temporary repair if they work at all. There are several possibilities. If the battery post is under sized the best bet is a new battery. If the battery terminal is stretched or worn out a new terminal should be installed. Sometimes the wedge bolt on the terminal will be worn out or damaged. Replacement bolts are available.

[@Thegettingisgood]

So what happened to the truck

[@SparkysAnswers]

The truck did not have a drain on the system. Near the end of the video where I connect the multimeter, the drain starts out at 220 milliamps, then drops to 150 milliamps and then goes to 30 milliamps before I turn the ignition on. Anything below 50 milliamps is considered a normal parasitic drain. If you pay close attention to the sounds you may also notice that the amperage did not spike when I opened the door It did when I turned the ignition on. That is because the door ajar switch in the driver's door was not working properly.

[@Thegettingisgood]

@@SparkysAnswers same thing happened to my 2018 Chevy Silverado had to tow it to the shop yesterday… how much do you think repairs will cost?

[@SparkysAnswers]

@@Thegettingisgood Really hard to guess due to various qualities of parts available, shop rates and margins needed. I would guess on the lowest end around $250 and could go on up to about $600. Also no one knows yet if you need the extra inline fuse holder due to the blue connector having a burnt terminal.

[@Thegettingisgood]

I got my truck back today it cost me $420 to fix

[@SparkysAnswers]

@@Thegettingisgood Pretty good, middle of my estimates. Glad to hear your truck is up an running again. Sparky

[@sauldelacruz5679]

What size nut are the cables that hook up to the distro block

[@SparkysAnswers]

They are 8mm by 1.25 thread pitch. The hexes can be 13, 14 or 15 mm.

[@sauldelacruz5679]

@@SparkysAnswers thanks just replaced mine and your video and info helped me with frustration levels 🤣

[@SparkysAnswers]

@@sauldelacruz5679 Happy to hear and thanks for commenting.

[@PuTTYMySSH]

I'm having a similar issue to this. Can you tell me why I can't take the cables off the first post having the issues, hook it up to a 175 amp fuse and the get an additional positive cable hooked up where the positive cable is already set on the bus bar and then hook that up to the other end of the 175 amp fuse? I'm not a mechanic, just spit balling and trying to get a cheaper valid solution.

[@PuTTYMySSH]

Side note, I did move the cables from the first post that's 175 amp and hooked them to the 3rd post where the other 175 amp is at. The truck is up and running. This was a temporary test that proved valid.

[@SparkysAnswers]

@@PuTTYMySSH As long as you are not adding the load of the new fuse to another fuse you will be okay. All fuses at that battery fuse block need to have the same power source. Just need to make sure you keep it neat and tidy so there is no chance of circuits getting crossed or shorted out.

[@PuTTYMySSH]

@@SparkysAnswers Did this work this weekend, can confirm that the truck is up and running. Nothing getting hot along the new line or fuse ends. I got a 6" 2/0 awg cable with 2 13mm ends from a battery cable site for 12 bucks. 175amp fuse for 5 nuts and bolts for 4. Wrapped it all up all the metal with electric tape.

[@SparkysAnswers]

@@PuTTYMySSH Glad to hear you were able to adapt my repair to fix your problem.