2018 Honda CRV - Oil Change Tips and Steps - 5th Gen CR-V 1.5l Turbo

[@VortexGarage]

Note: There is a lot of debate about "prefilling" oil filters during an oil change - as you'll see here, I did not prefill this one. In fact, I rarely prefill filters (and have never had an issue from that) - and if you look online, you'll find this is quite a contentious subject! But you'll also find, that for modern vehicles, the general consensus is that prefilling is not necessary, but, if you are doing so and able to, it generally won't harm anything - here's some details... Generally speaking, on a modern car with a canister filter, the volume of that filter is fairly low, and a modern oil pump will flow a large volume of oil very quickly. Additionally, when changing oil, a film remains on the components in the engine - we aren't working on a freshly built engine, or one that had the oil drained/sat for a long time. As a result, the amount of time in startup to fill the filter, combined with the existing oil film, is so small, it makes prefill vs non-prefill differences very negligible. In fact, some manufacturers actually specifically recommend against prefills. In the diesel world, CAT is known for calling out no prefills, as an example. And many manufacturers service manuals do not call for prefill as part of the factory tasks. Now if this was a fresh motor build, I'd not just prefill but also prime the oiling system if possible. Also, if this was a specialty vehicle with a large volume filter, or external filter, I may also take prefill/priming. But for a standard car's routine oil change, it's really not necessary in most cases. More things come into play as well - such as some engines having pressure bypass valves, where the filter is in the oiling circuit, filters that mount horizontally or upside down, etc. That's what makes it such a hot topic in the car world :) The point is - you're not going to really harm anything on a normal car's oil change doing it either way. And if you are really worried, take a peek at your service manual for the factory specific guidance. If you're worried about your car's long term health (and who isn't!?), you'd be best off simply ensuring you are doing regular oil changes with quality, factory recommend oil, as well as a nice high quality filter. Now if you do prefill, heres one thing to consider - the center part of a canister type oil filter is it's output. By prefilling in the center, you are basically introducing (albiet new) unfiltered oil. So if you do prefill and take the time, try to fill it using the outer (smaller) holes which is the input side. There are studies that show even fresh out of the jug oil can have miniscule/microscopic contaminants. So, what is your preference? Do you prefill or just install and go?

[@williamlewis4379]

Thanks for making this video. I was able to change my oil and filter on my CRV today. Your instructions and tips were very helpful. Thank you!

[@hoppleganger]

This was a great video and helpful with my wife's oil change...even without a lift. Thanks for all you do.

[@rockk973]

I'll be doing this today for 1st time. I did the transmission and differential already so easy.

[@djxny]

I didn’t realize it was this easy. I think I’ll be doing my own oil changes going forward.

[@dmna7609]

I just upgraded from a 2018 Civic 1.5T to the 2022 CR-V 1.5T, and i noticed on the CR-V there it a weird indent in the bottom of the pan like something is supposed to be installed there, but the 18 Civic did not have that indent. Now to catch a lot of hate, but I don't replace the crush washer until after a handful of oil changes. I just note its position on the drain plug, take it off, flip it over the other way, back on the plug and then thread it in. Never had any issues with leaks doing this.

[@carlovanrijk4039]

Dan Harvey, I’ll reuse the same drain plug washer several times without any leaking problems. True they are relatively inexpensive, but as I do 4 DIY oil changes a year on my car, that washer may last the year. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@chuckabar4026]

Excellent tutorial! Thank you very much for the 100% accurate start to finish step by step instructions.

[@GA-tl4iy]

Thank you for another GREAT video, totally educated and well trained video. Thanks again and God bless.

[@Tom-ej8bb]

Excellent. But notes don't stay long enough to read! For DIY guys better check for leaks b4 cover gets back on. I did a job from above once and didn't see a tie wrap that got in between the gasket of the filter and yuk. Best to check b4 cover is on just in case! TY

[@scottbrenner5184]

You’re awesome. Great video. I didn’t know about the crush gasket and getting ready to change my oil for the first time. And using your hair is a great idea. Lol! Thanks.

[@Tony-dx3eo]

Fantastic video tutorial-definitely going to give this a try on my 2018 1.5 L Turbo Honda CRV

[@heymasonchen]

Can I reuse the crush washer??

[@R357R]

It's the aluminum cover that you first removed necessary. Mine just got all bent up and it impossible to put back on.

[@umrdyldo4872]

late response for others, you can remove the bottom cover and leave it off

[@darrinsiberia]

Depends on where you live. If you live in the rust belt that shields probably gunna save you from rust eating away your undercarriage. Also if you drive on any dirt roads or gravel you'll probably want to get a replacement one. In the meantime it is largely unnecessary for most in town driving situations.

[@MuhammadSoroya]

Is it ok to just flip the crush washer instead of replacing it?

[@carlovanrijk4039]

Muhammad Soroya, I do that on my drain plug. It won’t hurt it as long as it doesn’t leak. 👍🏼

[@javar888]

great job . thorough and great insight . I clean the cover Silver air shield and areas around the sump while im in there - 10 minute job . Suggestion- could you give the metric equivalent . Quarts are used less and less these days . In Canada its all metric and the rest of the world really . I think its 3.7L per oil fill and filter. I tend to ALWAYS use OEM filters on the vehicles I work on . I own a 2020 CRV Sport model . Oil quality makes a big difference . Surprisingly the Costco brand- 0/20 full synthetic - exceeds Honda's requirements by a long shot ( Here in Canada anyway ) . Quite inexpensive too ! I think Shell makes it for them a rep for Kirkland / Costco said .

[@daleadmire1451]

Yes I am so happy that Costco sells the synthetic oil, it's a great deal 0w20 for my CRV 5W30 for my Chevy, luckily they sell both flavors.

[@rickhundley3465]

lol

[@javar888]

@@rickhundley3465 what’s a quart? No country uses this outdated measure . Circa 1820’s stuff . Follow science at all? 🤣

[@juanpabloflores2355]

Excellent, nice and easy video. Question, why put oil around the new filter???

[@VortexGarage]

The oil is placed on the rubber gasket of the filter. It helps to lubricate the rubber when it's tightened which helps prevent it from tearing. Also helps ensure it comes off with the filter next time you change it.

[@jugganautRF11]

What kind of funnel is that? My normal funnel does not work. It cant even be inserted in to pour oil into it. There is some kind of built in screen under the oil cap

[@MoisesPes]

Thanks dude, awesome video 🫡 waiting for do it in my 2017 touring 😁

[@mikespratz]

After viewing the video I looked under my car. The belly pan is missing. The lazy a**holes at the dealer forgot or were too lazy to replace it.

[@daleadmire1451]

Oh hell no! I would be so pissed, did you go back to the dealer and demand it?

[@Theyralltakenfu]

@@daleadmire1451 would like to hear the answer to this

[@R357R]

It's it necessary to have it on. Mine just got all bent up and I'm deciding whether or not to replace it or leave it off

[@Theyralltakenfu]

@@R357R I’d leave it as is if me. Doesn’t really affect the way the car drives.

[@TJ321CYA]

It's because the one of the 3 phillips screws at some point get frozen, stripped and the pan is destroyed attempting to get it off. U can't change the oil and filter without getting that dang pan off.

[@oldbiker9739]

not to worry the oil pump pumps the oil directly to oil filter first , many engines come with the oil filter on top of engine , so you cant fill it if you tried , BMW etc.

[@kylelarson253]

FYI....use a red solo cup when removing the oil filter. You will save yourself an oily mess to clean up.

[@Azureecosse]

ive used a plastic coca cola bottle cut in half and placed over the old oil filter for years catches all the old oil and zero mess and zero expense.

[@darrinsiberia]

I used a funnel but one of those larger scoop kind... Over my drain pan worked beautifully.

[@wfemp_4730]

The slots in those threaded pan screws need to be deeper. Honda seriously overtightened mine and they are a PITA to deal with now.

[@RushWorkingMan]

There also seems to be some discussions about the orientation of the crush gasket. I’ve always placed the crush side of the gasket against the pan. Any thoughts on this ?

[@BajaPete]

4:09 in video mentions filter removal tool but I did not see link to it in the description

[@VortexGarage]

Sorry for slow reply - looks like I left it off because my one universal oil filter wrench actually was too big for this filter. I was able to get it off by hand. But, it appears this Lisle universal works for the Honda filters: Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool amzn.to/3JG8pTv - hope this helps!

[@boomerbob]

Thx for the vids. Any tips on the battery drain issue? Replacing mother’s CRV battery now. 20k miles. Battery keeps needing a jump. Going with a higher CCA 51R interstate. Hoping that helps. She drives is 1-2x a week.

[@VortexGarage]

So I do have a few thoughts on this actually - my wife's CRV (2018) had the battery die unexpectedly with less than 30,000 miles on the clock. (It was just after a wedding - a few hours earlier I had gone to pickup the groom - sure glad it hadn't died then!) Anyway, in doing some research it seems like many others were having their OEM batteries failing very early. If you are still under warranty you could probably go ahead and try to get one replaced under warranty. In our case, we got a jump and made it to the hotel, and I walked to a nearby Napa the next morning and just picked a new one up. Modern vehicles do have things that run while the car is off, such as EVAP tests, etc., and Honda still uses in my opnion a way too small battery size for something with modern levels of electronics. While you could certainly check for a drain, my impression is that Honda had a run of not-so-great batteries from their supplier, and they're not a large capacity to begin with. On thing I've not yet added to my wife's CRV but I may still, and I've used them on older classics with great success, is a NOCO onboard battery tender. I like these as they're as simple as plugging in an extension cord. And as a battery tender, they will not over charge the battery - but will keep it topped off indefinitely and prevent drain. At 2amps it's not really a charger, but does great maintaining a good battery. The NOCO Genius2d is the one I've used, it mounts under the hood and stays there, permanently mounted to the battery, and you just pop the hood and plug in an extension cord. amzn.to/3I9IhT1 Might be a good addition after the new battery - though I will say since replacing the battery we've had no issues if the CRV sits for days.

[@waynesummers921]

Excellent video on crv oil change

[@selenemendez4447]

What size are the clips? My splash board came loose and is hanging because one of the screws came off. And came to auto zone but they need the size of the "bolt"

[@davidlayne8755]

One thing about my new crv, it's the only car I've ever had that adds oil by itself.. Is there a fix...?.other then waiting for the fuel pump pressure to weaken , I know the problem is fuel going into the oil...

[@mikiegee6629]

Turbos are an engine killer. Honda is moving to hybrid electric gas to replace turbos and get better miles per gallon and performance while saving the gas motor.

[@marilyn6068]

How often should the synthetic oil be changed ?

[@titiafrica9154]

Depending upon you how many kilometers you drive or using it

[@marilyn6068]

How many km between synthetic oil change of 2018 Honda?

[@1TexasKid]

I’ve got a 2019 Honda CR-V. I would like to raise it 2”. However, I can not find the answer to a safety sensor question. Do I need to re calibrate the collision (Front & Rear) & cruise control sensors after rising the vehicle?

[@rudolphmadronich1467]

I did not see if you put the date on the oil filter like it was on the old one.

[@VortexGarage]

I don't recall if I did honestly. I use a window sticker and record in a maintenance record so I don't always write on the filters. Probably depends on if I can find the sharpie 🤣

[@edmon179]

It is necessary to put oil in filter before installing. Thanks

[@fretted]

What is that pan called you removed? I need some new 1/4 turn screws and the clips they go in.

[@VortexGarage]

I'll add these to the video description but here's what I found: Lid, Engine Cover (Lower) - Honda (74112-TLA-A01) 2017-2020 Honda CR-V Example URL: www.hondapartsdirect.com/oem-parts/honda-lid-engine-cover-lower-74112tlaa01 Pin Kit (Aftermarket Option) amzn.to/3mI3Rn6 Single replacement Pin, Engine Cover (Lower) - Honda (90674-TY2-A01) Example URL: www.hondapartsdirect.com/oem-parts/honda-pin-engine-cover-lower-90674ty2a01

[@STOPTHEHATE70]

Thanks for your help

[@bigblue3568]

2018 Accord dozens of oil changes.... same "crush gasket"

[@ilovetotri23]

You thought that was messy? I did not have the luxury of a lift. I use ramps. Despite my best efforts with a large oil pan and tons of cardboard the driveway is now covered in oil. I'm surprised by the velocity it shoots out. What if I left the oil fill cap closed until I had the draining mostly, would that help slow the velocity? Great tips for the filter! BTW, for the life of me I cannot remove that most rear phillips head screw out, so I just spin the pan out of my way. Any ideas? Thanks for a well detailed post.

[@VortexGarage]

The oils velocity will be the same with the cap on, if anything it will be less smooth of a flow. The main issue is the light weight of the oil - 0W-20 oil flows pretty quickly. Regarding the screws, the half turn ones use a u-bolt that can be purchased. The Phillips screws go into bosses on the panels next to the pan. Most likely they also use ubolts. I've not looked in awhile but that one should be back here in a month or so for an oil change and I'll look closer. As a guess though I'd say it's a m6 j-nut that is broken and spinning. You may be able to spot it with the panel moved out of the way. Honda does show a part for that as it's probably integrated into the panel but perhaps a local hardware store would have a replacement. www.hondafactoryparts.com/oem-parts/honda-2017-2020-honda-cr-v-lid-engine-cover-lower-74112tlaa01

[@ilovetotri23]

@@VortexGarage Thank you!

[@marieriddick8388]

Great video.

[@kingoflv-1]

is this your first oilchange

[@FrenchValleyAirport]

Would 4 quarts hurt it? just to keep it more simple

[@VortexGarage]

It's a very small engine so I would stick to their recommendation. Some engines do not take well to overfilled - it can cause oil in the pan to be disturbed by the movement of the crankshaft if over filled. This can cause aeration of the oil and a loss of lubricity to what flows up during this aeration. To be safe it's best to follow the manufacturer spec. Using 5qt jugs and the measuring cup it goes pretty fast and the jugs let you store excess for next time easily.

[@FrenchValleyAirport]

@@VortexGarage I have a CR-V and Accord with this engine, just did both of their break-in oil changes and put 4 quarts, they were both perfectly at the full mark.

[@ofcbob6391]

David, ya gotta leave room for the gas to add to the oil! Just kidn, hope your CRV is not having that oil dilution issue.

[@FrenchValleyAirport]

@@ofcbob6391 They both seem to have the issue sadly.. good thing they're leases

[@olegregersen1024]

Nothing beats precision! Good work.

[@kimquyluu6771]

Thank you share clip

[@andrewtuiasosopo4473]

Gonna get some tuff gel...for my bald head lol...thanx bro ALOHA

[@JodyHeath]

Hi, 1) I'm curious why you went with a Honda Filter but OEM fluids. I get that OEM fluids (to speck) are fine. But would you only use a Honda filter and why? 2) As far as fluid choice, personally, I want to go with full synthetic. With the potential for oil dilution (I have a 2019 C-RV), I think the full synthetic will offer more protection, if I do get substantial dilution. I don't trust my ability to tell early-detect, if it is diluted; therefore, I kinda feel like I should change the oil about every 3,000, to be on the safe side; but it's going to get costly with full synthetic. I thought about going with a blend (to strike a happy medium on price), and then change it every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. What's your take on the appropriate change frequency and type? It kinda just sucks, paying the price for full synthetic, and not getting the 5,000 to 7,500 miles some claim it can go; it almost feels wasteful. What’s your take? Thanks

[@VortexGarage]

When we bought the car I grabbed a 12 pack of Honda OEM filters. So basically just using what I have on hand. I've actually read the Honda filters come in multiple varieties and the ones I got may be Honeywell made, aka same maker of Fram. I honestly don't remember. I think any good quality filter with good media and a good silicone valve is a sound way to go - OEM for me only because I got them around... As for oil, I'd check out Project Farms oil test videos. Two things from that is first the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic is very very close to Amsoil for top spot. And second, any oil suffers a lot from fuel dilution. So basically a good quality synthetic is great but more routine oil changes if you fear dilution is probably the best. So basically a cheaper oil changed more often on an engine with fuel dilution is probably better than a maximum quality oil changed later. The big question of course is how much do these motors really get dilution in the oil. I stick to a 4000-4500 mile change interval with a good quality synthetic. Been using Valvoline but may switch the Pennzoil. Either way I feel the shorter oil change is prudent. Hope this helps!

[@JodyHeath]

@@VortexGarage, thanks so much for taking the time out for the thoughtful reply, Best!

[@Woodland26]

@@VortexGarage last time I bought oil filter the Honda filter is same cost as aftermarket so would save nothing by using OEM

[@guozhang66]

what Oil Filter Wrench are you recommend?

[@daleadmire1451]

I tried to get an oil filter wrench directly from Honda and they don't sell one and had no recommendation for me on what to buy, so annoying.

[@ZootyZoFo]

Hand tight, a oil filter wrench is not needed or used on these little filters as you normally do!

[@daleadmire1451]

@@ZootyZoFo of course "hand tight" when you install it, however when you remove it sometimes 4 months or 6 months later it gets baked on because of the heat, you need a wrench to take it off, Toyota sells them why not honda?

[@818773]

NEED A CLIP UPGRADE!! The hardest part is getting the twist lock clips fully seated on the aluminum undershield. The dealership left most of mine off after servicing. I bought more and now I understand why. No excuse though and horrible design!!

[@VortexGarage]

I agree, that's the worst part of doing an oil change on this vehicle - those goofy clips. You kinda get use to them, but I bet most could get simple hex bolts off and on faster! Plus having to use two different tools to remove the heat shield is even more inefficient. Make 'em all the same size hex bolt, and using power tools that shield would be off and on in seconds.

[@jeanrmonestime612]

How come you don"t pour some oil in the filter to avoid a : Dry start ! Nice anyway .

[@DebMyles]

this guy reminds me of ed helms

[@VortexGarage]

You know, this isn't the first time someone has told me that - last time it was specifically Ed Helms in hangover 3, they were very specific lol

[@stevewalters4626]

actually if you tighten more than a normal "hand tight" or use a wrench to tighten it will leak as it is an o ring rather than a flat seal.

[@snowboarding1994ify]

The numb, nuts whoever put on my oil note on my car. I cannot get the thing off now.

[@shamirsanani7868]

Forgot to prefill the oil filter.

[@VortexGarage]

Not a necessary step. This isn't a dry engine - a film of oil remains on the parts inside. Especially since it drove in 15min earlier. Also modern oil pumps move many gallons per minute - the difference between empty and prefilled filters is negligible. Add in that many prefill on the output side and add unfiltered fresh oil (which is proven to often have contaminates out of the bottle) and it's a wash here. Add in where the filter is on an oiling circuit from vehicle to vehicle, orientation of the filter and bypass valves on some systems, and even more of a wash. If you want to do it go for it, but if not you aren't killing your engine. Some manufacturers specifically stated NOT to prefill and most don't even call it out in factory change procedures. Use a quality oil and filters plus change it regularly and you'll get better service than worrying about a prefill. In the long run to prefill or not is very negligible.

[@miguelsoto9579]

Cool nices and well explained videos thank u so much

[@jimmy4x4socal44]

I just put in 4 qts cuz F*** it

[@darrinsiberia]

Crush gasket? Dust shield? This is like the most unnecessarily complicated oil change ever. [edit mine had a washer on it. just went with that seems fine.]

[@robschwartzenberger8337]

Always use oem fluids. Honda vehicles are ment to only use oem filters and oil. Using anything else is going to void you're factory warranty.

[@VortexGarage]

This is not true - see page 572 of the factory owners manual (for a 2018) which states: "Recommended Engine Oil • Genuine Honda Motor Oil • Premium-grade 0W-20 detergent oil with an API Certification Seal on the container Use a Genuine Honda Motor Oil or another commercial engine oil of suitable viscosity for the ambient temperature as shown. Synthetic oil You may also use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API Certification Seal and is the specified viscosity grade." Any dealer that tells you OEM branded oil is required and a voided warranty will result if not used is not being truthful. Now using a non certified oil, or an incorrect viscosity would be against Honda guidance. Nothing against Honda's oil, as there is certainly nothing wrong with using OEM Honda branded oil, but there are other alternatives that are perfectly acceptable to use and backed up by guidance from Honda.

[@daleadmire1451]

Costco sells a fantastic 0w-20 twin pack full synthetic oil at a great price just as good as any other oil.

[@Azureecosse]

Honda don't make oil the Oil they use which they brand as Honda 2.0 is made by Mobil , I am a Honda Tech , Honda also say you can use Castrol Edge or Total Quartz oil as long as its GF6 rated. Their oil Filters too are not made by Honda they are manufactured by Meyle and Filtech, you can buy the exact same oil filter without the Honda Blue design off the shelf for half the price of the " OEM" filter it has the same tolerance and specs.(Same filter)

[@fq7879]

Its not 3.7 quarts. It's 3.7 liters.

[@Dons166]

Can’t get the Lower Engine Cover Pins to go back in. Any suggestions? They don’t lock in, like they are too short