2021 Sienna/highlander inverter install

[@kenlee9798]

Great video. Could you tell us more . After a year how is it working?

[@rendroidz4680]

Thanks for the video. How's this working so far? Any issues?

[@kenlee9798]

After 1 year could you tell us how its working? Can you lease let us know what is the highest load and how long you have run that load continuously? Has there been any issues with the battery or the car? Thank you.

[@AnnaQuerbach]

The video ends with a test using a paper shredder, which is a lot wattage appliance, hence does not really proof 1500W. A 100A breaker was used on 12V. If you do the math, Power=Voltage x Current = 12V x 100A = 120V x 10A, it means, this setup will "break" when exceeds 10A on 120V appliance. Hair dryer, microwave, heater etc... likely will trip the breaker. That being said, as an Electrical Engineer, this setup would work with some different parts and some limitations... I would recommend move up to 150A breaker, possibly thicker wires. Now, the interesting calculation, if the Toyota DC to DC inverter/charger is assumed to deliver 100A to the Auxiliary battery, the Toyota Auxiliary battery is 860 Amp Hour, assuming you do draw 1500W continuously, you will be running a 50A deficit (drawing from the Toyota Auxiliary battery to make up the extra current), doing the math: (850 Amp Hour x 50%) / 50 A = 7 hours. In another word, this is not a "true continuous 1500W setup", but it could supply high current for many hours depending on how full the auxiliary battery is, and how quickly Toyota DC to DC inverter/charger tries to recharge the auxiliary battery. So, it is practical to run most of your high current application such as microwave, hair dryer, fridge, heater, etc...

[@rendroidz4680]

Thanks for doing the math...

[@grom3463]

Thanks for connection video. Hơ about organize the inverter inside the slot?

[@Polemic-2525]

Thanks man

[@thomasbaby1290]

I wish you should show the connection to the battery+ve

[@frmmli]

Have you tried enough # of time running the inverter close to the full 1500 watt like cooking with a 1200 watt microwave oven, running a burner or e-kettle close to 1500 for extended time like 15 minutes each time and not having any concerning observation. I believe your set up is sound based on what I know but waiting for actual tests to verify. Thanks!

[@lifeofalego8061]

Sorry, I haven't try that set up yet. I mainly set it up for emergency power.

[@tonymai1844]

It would kill the 12v charging system. The car 12v battery does not have enough power to run the 1500w inverter. DONT DO IT.

[@frmmli]

Tks, Life of a Lego. I think your routing/circuit makes sense in the sense of where the inverter gets the 12v input from - @ the tail end of the 12v cable/wire from the 48-to-12v inverter in the engine compartment. The factory optional is picking up the 12 volt kind of at the front end of the cable (which is the 48-to-12v output connection point). Not knowing what gauge or whether the gauge of that long cable/wire is sufficient enough to carry the max. 125 amp (theoretical), I ask the question on whether you have actually run at that storage/max out to around 1500 watt for 15 min., and more than one time to validate the 'design'. That will greatly appreciated and benefit a lot of DIYers. Please keep me posted once you have a chance to try it. One gent has discussed in a forum of doing what you are doing but not to the point of actually hooking it up. If you do, you will be the first and validated by you. To Tony, thanks. The usage practice we are talking about talking here is keeping the Hybrid vehicle in the ignition/run position and vehicle in P. We are actually tapping into the 48V hybrid battery but not its 48v and instead the 12v after it has been step down to 12v by the built-in 48-to-12 inverter in the engine compartment (that's how it is called but actually more a transformer). The output from that includes a long cable coming back to charge that 12v aux battery you are concerned about. So, we are not using the 12v aux battery you worry about. It appears that we are tapping into that battery but we are not unless we forget to leave the ignition to on. (The engine will cycle between off and on to replenish as we keep on discharging/depleting the hybrid battery. If we buy the vehicle with the factory 1500 watt inverter and now actually not orderable in real life since Toyota is allocating vehicles in their unwritten specs; there is I understand, an inverter function 'on/off' push button/switch with a logic circuit and you can't turn on the 1500 watt unless your ignition is on. That helps to ensure u don't run your aux battery flat. )

[@lifeofalego8061]

Tony, I concur with what frmmt is saying, I believed no harm to the vehicle battery as long the power to it is on the run position. It should be the same method use by toyota minus the safety inverter switch.

[@frmmli]

Please please bring your microwave to your car and make some pop corn a few times but keep an eye on the cables temp. I and many will thank u even though your original project is not to address that kind of camping usage.

[@LivingWithJohna]

Good video I just wish you showed the first part

[@lifeofalego8061]

Yeah, I didn't think about that. I did try to zoom in at the connection at the end.

[@LivingWithJohna]

I got the pure sine 2500 inverter and 300 Amp breaker. You think I'll be ok?

[@lifeofalego8061]

I think the 2500 inverter is good but not sure about the 300 amp. I installed the 100 amp so that it will trip early for good insurance but that's just me. I'm no expert.

[@LivingWithJohna]

Oh I thought maybe the more the better

[@lifeofalego8061]

I wouldn't go any higher than 150 amps if I wanted a higher amp installed

[@douglasheld]

8:01 What is that, junk mail from your congressman?

[@nareshdoshi9843]

the cut out switch comes with or it is all ready in van or you install?

[@lifeofalego8061]

The cut off switch is the resettable fuse that I connect it in series with the positive wire. You'll need to purchase it

[@tonymai1844]

I would put a 200AH LiFePO4 and a 20A charger to the place of the van 12v battery. Then I hook up the inverter to it. I would not put the inverter directly to the car 12v battery. It may kill your car 12v charging system when you have a peak out put from your 1500w inverter.

[@frmmli]

Tony, please look at my later reply to Life of Lego and you just now. Understand your reasoning and your solution. However, the 3 of us are talking about 2 different givens/situations. Life if Lego and I are in a way trying to replicate/'hack'(accidentally) the Toyota 1500 watt option/setup. He has a 100 amp breaker/fuse. In theory, can max out at 125 amp fuse/breaker (1500 watt/12 V = 125 amo) if we can get one. That said, the unknown to me is (when I don't have my vehicle yet to check that supply 12v cable size and to do the actual trial), I have to be concerned if that factory cable can safely carry at least 125 amp(1500watt) therefore asking Life of Lego to try and verify) - measure the gauge, not not too warm to touch at 1500 watt usage ... And we use that converter with the ignition key on. See my reply. Your idea is equal to having an extra stand alone large 12v lithium battery in the car and not hardwired to the car. In turn you will charge it with a 20A 'wall plug' plug in charger to recharge it. Your set up can actually also be charged by the 12v cigarette charger but only around 10 A in a Toyota. So, bottom line is, the two presents diff level of challenge/convenience in recharging.

[@tonymai1844]

@frmmli ut you do that way , it will burn your 12v battery CHARGING CIRCUIT. Not the 12v battery. I wouldn't do that. You can use that 12v battery charging circuit to charge your 200AH LiFePO4 battery, then use it for the 1500w inverter. I would not do just like the guy hooked up in the video. You try on your car. I don't.

[@stephenfiore9960]

…Toyota is a “Pain in the A**” to work with. They advertise a 1500 Watt inverter, but trying to get one is near impossible. Look at all the trouble and potential danger to the vehicle this guy is going through, not to mention the 120Volt receptacles will not be in the place they would be if factory installed. Also this guy might be voiding his warranty (There is a 120Volt receptacle in the 2nd row and one in the storage area if factory installed. Plus is this inverter just going to be flopping around or is he going to hide it away??)