21st Century Flash Hole Deburring and Chamfering Tool

[@jenslee1678]

Buyers beware, on the new upgraded carbide tip, 21st is using some type of epoxy to secure the carbide debur tip in the sleeve instead of threading the tip because they say the carbide doesn’t like to thread according to the rep I spoke to. The debur tip got stuck in the flash hole 6 cartridges in and the epoxy bond broke free. They are sending me a new one, but now I can’t work my new brass this weekend and am now not going to be able to load and shoot until the 2nd weekend of May. I was counting on this tool especially at the price point for the tool and expecting it to last more than 5 pieces of new brass. Really disappointed after waiting more than a year to shoot my new custom build. While the rep said it was rare, he acknowledged that it has been happening especially in the last few weeks.

[@whyme82004]

I also use this 21st Century product. Cost to cover the various calibers , is higher,however this is the only tool which does not cut an excessive chamfer into the flash hole. The quality of this tool , makes it well worth the money I spent. My Sinclair,RCBS, Lyman tools just collect dust now.

[@wilfdarr]

Because of the shape of the 'universal' Lymen index, it's not only case length (which could be remedied by trimming first) but also case mouth diameter: both together means compounding errors. I like the look of that 21st C. tool

[@barry7413]

The cut-out cartridge is a nice touch. You missed two points with the Lyman tool. One, it is supposed to be used on freshly trimmed cases. Then you don't have the case length issue you mention. Two, the Lyman tool not only deburrs the inside of the flash hole, it also uniforms the "diameter" of the flash hole, something the 21st Century tool does not. Any inconsistency is operator error.

[@FclassCommunityCHL]

Thanks for the comments. For me the ultimate point of this video is to take out one step in the case prep process especially with fresh virgin brass. The pain of having to trim Virgin brass in order to debur or put a small chamfer saves valuable time and allows the user to get to other tedious case prep work. Lyman tool although it service two purposes deburring and uniforming flash holes. It could also accidently enlarge the flashhole more that it needs to if it is improperly aligned, secondly in Small Rifle Primer brass which has a smaller diameter flash hole you would not want it to enlarged. YMMV. Since this video I've adjust the way I use it, using it more lightly and sparingly. Cheers!

[@electricman69]

You stole my thunder good comment ❤

[@peterresetz5669]

I use the RCBS flash hole debuting tool modified with a length of brass pipe, 3/16" ID x 7/32" OD cut to length with a small tubing cutter, then 1/4" from each end of the tube use the tubing cutter to put a lite cut on the tide that will raise a ring on the inside of the tube that will make a tight slip fit of the brass tube over the RCBS debuting tools shaft. Using the supplied coller stop, set the depth of the cut whit the brass pipe. The pipe being brass will not cut into the case web. The brass tube has to be cut in length for the specific cartridge case. I have used this set for over 20 years with repeatable and perfect results.

[@rememberussliberty1822]

Thats a neat tool. I can feel when my lyman has removed the punch out bump but if i was reloading for competition that would be my go to

[@PatriotPaulUSA]

Its the nicest flash hole debur tool for sure. They could easily sell different bushings for different calibers, But no, they make you buy a entire new tool for each caliber. Real nice! I choose to buy Lapua brass for my precision reloads and avoid this step all together. The difference of Lapua and other top end brass companies vs cheaper brass made by our normal everyday ammo companies like hornady, remington, winchester, etc Is amazing! The primer flash holes are SO much better! It is the 1st thing I noticed on my 1st box of Lapua.

[@2541968joey]

Solid information, thanks for taking the time to share & cut the sides off of some of your brass to show inside pictures. Well done

[@davecollins2097]

I don't even use the stop/pilot setup on whatever brand mine is, one or two turns with very light fingertip pressure does what needs doing, you can feel burrs or punchout tags coming off. That is all you need to accomplish. Redding one has a positive stop collar on the end of it as well, and is cheaper. Once you get the feel for what is in there, just give it one more turn, that is good enough.

[@BBouncer]

The 21st Century FHD tool is the best on the market since it indexes off the case web. The next best are tools that index off the case mouth at a 90 degree angle, but most trimmers will give a .001-.002 trimming variance so your flash hole cut will vary by the accuracy of your case trimmer accuracy. Tools that use a tapered case stop are simply worthless and will result in uneven flash hole cuts since the case mouth stop is inaccurate based on pressure. Just spend the extra few dollars and get the 21st Century tool.

[@robr9905]

3 min of useful info in 12 min video

[@jimhans1]

I will stick with my Sinclair flash hole deburing tool, it is NOT caliber specific, it has a positive stop that does NOT each the bottom of the cases, and since it isn’t caliber specific, it costs way less, since I load precision for .224”, .243”, .264” and .308” cartridges.......

[@wilfdarr]

Thanks for mentioning the Sinclair as your goto: I'm looking right now to start uniforming primers and though this 21C looks good, if you like the Sinclair I'll give it an honest look too. That said, you reload in four different calibers but are too cheap to buy four different tools, I got a good chuckle: what's one more tool at that point? ;-)

[@jimhans1]

Wilfred Darr I reload for way more than four calibers, but the ones mentioned are the ones I’m most particular about. Why would I spend money on something that doesn’t need it spent on. I can buy more bullets, powders, primers, or firearms/accessories, that would be a better place to spend the money on.

[@wilfdarr]

@@jimhans1 I had a look at that Sinclair universal tool and it looks like it fits the bill: it'll probably be the one I pick up first. I wasn't meaning any disrespect (I apologize, cheep was probably the wrong word, but I was just funning), I too am looking to be particular about one single caliber, so I'm looking for the best tools for that caliber. I hear where your coming from, and I was just poking fun: from the sounds of it you're already thousands of dollars further into this game than I am, and to hear you then say you're worried about another $150, I found it comical is all. Again, no disrespect, I get what you're saying, and after seeing how well the Synclair works I agree it's good enough for what I want. 🍻

[@DLN-ix6vf]

first can someone explain to me why you would do this ? I'm new to shooting so still learning second do they do this with new ammo store bought ?

[@rwnelissen]

Like someone comment, if you trim your cases before using the Lyman tool, the depth of the cut will be consistent, and you don't need different sleeves for different calibers

[@MrJeffreyTSanford]

Nice video. All flash holes are not created equal LOL... They are different diameters/openings by design. Need a tool that has different size reams.

[@mikem9571]

You mentioned if the case length is different it can index differently....TRIM YOUR CASES FIRST MY FRIEND

[@appreciativeobserver4732]

Amen !

[@Jeff_Seely]

You only need to do this once and because of this, I trim the case first so they all match and then use tools like this Lyman. And why even uniform the flash hole if you aren't going to persistently trim the brass length? Keeping uniform brass length is every bit as important as consistent flash holes. I love 21Century tool, don't get me wrong. But this argument is flawed. Happy shootin

[@anthonymcdonald5915]

Case length is your responsibility to trim. The Lyman tool is a universal unit. Your lazyness isn't a fault in the tool used to clean brass....

[@quest450]

nice video man, lots of butthurt ppl in here, Lol

[@bisonuberti]

I saw the flash-hole after you were done deburring it... it seems that you have removed excessive amounts of brass with your "New" 2st Century deburring tool. That flash-hole looks like it was drilled instead of being deburred. You need to deburr not drill your brass. The Lyman has worked for me thus far. You should also trim your brass if you want a more uniformed case length during your deburring process. Shoot lots and stay safe.

[@wilfdarr]

4:14 Nope. He addresses this in the video, just bottoming out and polishing. And again at 7:45

[@bisonuberti]

@@wilfdarr Incorrect... he has placed so much pressure on that flash-hole that you can actually see the oversized circumference. No doubt about it. And bottoming out? what is that... de-burr your brass until you can't no longer? Shoot lots and stay safe.

[@wilfdarr]

@@bisonuberti It indexes off the webbing, turning on the webbing but not cutting (Sinclair's tool does this as well, as do all the non - universal tools: there's still a shiny spot where they contact/ride the case webbing, but they're not removing/cutting/damaging any material, and he was really leaning on it to demonstrate this point, absolutely no reason you'd need to lean on it like that, so you won't get that level of polish using it normally). I see this method as much more accurate than indexing off the neck. Peace.

[@appreciativeobserver4732]

In watching your informative video it seems that you were TOO AGGRESSIVE with your pushing and turning motion. Don't you want to be gentle enough to clean and de-burr rather than "drill" through the flash hole?

[@wilfdarr]

No, because in theory the tool provides the stop, indexed off the web: that's the benefit of this tool is you shouldn't be able to over do it.