#252

[@leroyusa935]

Those wire nuts look a little newer than what was used originally. The previous owner may have died from an electrocution and the spouse decided to sell it and perhaps it went to several owners thereafter. This was a fun video to watch. It was like a new/old toy for your workbench. Mr. Carlson is informative, but his ego is a bit too much for me at times. The stacks of test equipment that he likes to showboat, may one day topple on him, if there's a big earthquake. LOL Thanks for sharing and your great sense of humor!

[@mikesradiorepair]

One suggestion. Never touch a meter face. Might not happen in your lifetime but over the decades the oils from your fingers soak through the paint on the meter face and it starts to rust or oxidize depending on what it's made of. Have seen a couple of faces on vintage/antique meters over the years that had a rusty finger print on them.

[@fullwaverecked]

Hello Mike! Hope you're doing well. Cheers!

[@RichardKCollins]

When I was a teenager (55 years ago) I got interested in electrochemistry and needed a simple way to limit the current, especially if I accidentally touched the electrodes together. Something that happened easily working with small electrodes. It always seemed (having the light bulb in series with easy to calculate limiting current Amperes = Watts/Volts) very elegant. I think I would just paint the hot terminals with black paint. The banana plugs go inside. Maybe a shock now and then was a teaching device. I never could afford an ammeter in those days, and they really need a current limiter. Thanks for the video.

[@PapasDino]

Nice find! You might want to replace the two jacks on the front with shrouded test lead jacks which you could then use safely with a meter and not have to watch the voltage on your isolated supply...just a thought. Thanks for sharing. 73 - Dino KL0S

[@acestudioscouk-Ace-G0ACE]

Never seen a commercially built one. Interesting find and video, thanks.

[@craxd1]

Shipping it that way, you were lucky that it wasn't torn to pieces. I figured the glass would be broken on the meter at least. Very lucky.

[@johnfindley1188]

The National Radio Institute (NRI) had a electrical appliance tester (dim bulb) similar to this device back in the day. Also had "widow maker" test leads. Good idea to disconnect them.

[@andydelle4509]

Wow, just like you I have seen countless DIY examples including several of my own over the years. But never a commercial version.

[@davidfalconer8913]

Having built many of these , ( UK , 230 Volts ! ) , I would recommend a 500 Watt ( or even 1000 Watt ! ! ) theatre flood lamp , but you will need to find or buy an E40 ( giant ! ) Edison screw holder ... this will allow your ( small ) device to FULLY function , but a blinding light indicates a BIG fault ! ! ... further uses ... as a current limiting ballast BEFORE an EHT transformer running a gas discharge tube ( Neon or Mercury / Halide type ) ... also very useful to work out the windings of a very valuable but unmarked transformer ( you may need your 200 Watt lamp here ? ) ... accidental powering of a 6 Volt winding with mains just results in a very bright bulb ! ... hope these tips help you and your viewers ...( tried - n - tested ) ............

[@scottthomas3792]

No zip code dates it to pre 1962....I have built several dim bulb testers, but have never seen a factory made version. Outlets weren't typically grounded at the time this was made. Cool old gizmo, though ..

[@majstordaki]

where that smoke came from at 14:23? just above the ammeter

[@Bairleafarm]

ive never seen a production made one either. nice find

[@jameskrivitsky9715]

Nice piece of test gear. I would keep the small bottom test jacks but replace them with isolated connectors with a couple updates. First, use a dual port insulated jack similar to one found on a bench power supply and second....reverse the position so that the slots on the 3 hole outlet are like most home outlets with the GND on the bottom ( or commercial with GND on top ) and then reverse the probe jacks so that the positions MATCH the outlet (large slot neutral on left and small slot as HOT...mains on the right ). Open for discussion..... JwgK

[@erin19030]

More fun than a vacation.

[@James_Bowie]

Danger Will Robinson!

[@andrew_koala2974]

04:08 -- Prior to introduction of the “zip code” in the 1960s - States were abbreviated with three or more letters - such as: CAL - FLA - TEX - MICH - CONN - or MASS If you don’t remember - ask your parents or grandparents. Again - put your federal territorial region code (zip code) in brackets. The Rules of English Grammar state that anything written within brackets signifies nothing. ZIP stands for Zone Improvement Plan

[@wa4aos]

Maybe install 2 banana plugs which are insulated and keep the voltage check capability..

[@tonyd1149]

Very nice.

[@FordSeniorMaster]

Concerning the "Banana Jacks" on the front. Well, this was built during the days where people 1) Took responsibility for their own actions 2) Were expected to to know to NOT touch both of them when it was plugged in.

[@IMSAIGuy]

yes, my parents gave me chemisty kits for christmas and wood burning equipment (solding iron type). I survived with minimal scars and did not burn down the house

[@andydelle4509]

Yes an a lawyer would have said: "You should have been more careful dealing with electricity. No case here. Not a chance a jury will hear this"!

[@carlrudd1858]

MAYBE if they had used recessed jacks that didn't feature METAL proud above the panel. Kinda lame.

[@electrolatif]

Can use G5.3 bulb 100w?

[@IMSAIGuy]

sure, nothing special about 100w also, depending on what you are testing 25w 50w might be better

[@electrolatif]

@@IMSAIGuy thank you for your reply

[@dougmcartin3881]

The 2 digit zip code is pre 1963.

[@tinagladu3744]

bananna plugs are for volt meter

[@GeigerCounterVirtualMuseum]

After watching your video I want one. Apparently these are pretty scarce. About all you can find on eBay for “Waage” are melting pots and irons.

[@goldenboy5500]

I doit the same way is shango066 does it