2nd parallel battery bank installation and BMS failure. Adding 15kWh of storage capacity.

In this video we will install the 2nd battery bank in our storage shelf. This all seems to be straight forward as I will just copy the design from the first battery bank below which works great. I also show you something I found about the clamp terminals I use the for the balance cables.
The installation did not cause any dramas until I wanted to turn on the new HELTEC BMS. It did not work as expected, cell voltages not showing correctly and error messages popping up in the app and display. After 2h of fault finding and troubleshooting I replaced it the with the Overkill Solar BMS. This BMS turned on right away with no problem.
Finally we do our high power test and use the IR camera to check for hotspots on the battery and cable connections.
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[@Shep5847]

Watching/Listening to your video while I’m putting together the mounts for my RV rooftop solar rack! Happy Easter!

[@ricardomarcelino8388]

Amazing storage you got there. I just finished my portable 100ah battery in an used army ammo can. I will learn enough to put up a 48V system in my new home. Awesome work as usual Regards from Madrid Spain.

[@Poebbelmann]

I really like your setup! I might use it as a blueprint for building my own energy storage.

[@evil17]

Another great vid Andy. Couple small suggestions. 1) switched LED strip lights over the batteries for maintenance , and it would look pretty! 2) use an end plate & top plastic cover to duct air from 1 or 2 small, quiet, temp controlled fans to blow air through the large centre cavity with a view to force it to vent through the batteries interior to exterior front & rear. Rear area could also have a small fan/vents for expiring of the warmer air from within the batteries. This is probably overkill for your setup anyhow, & not relying on fans or their noise is always a bonus too, but worth a ponder I thought. Love ya stuff , keep em coming!

[@gumpster6]

Another beautiful job! I love your attention to detail.

[@fouroakfarm]

Re: Ferrule vs no ferrule. I love the attention to detail :) Would have been interesting to see a measure of resistance on the bare wire vs ferrule, would give you more concrete data to work with. Another option as well is to tin the wire

[@BajanAlan]

Is resistance important for voltage measurement?

[@pjtruslow]

I'd add that the reason ferrults are important over tinned wire for screw terminals is that the tin will flow and the connection will become weakened. TBH I think with springloaded terminals, pretty much anything will work. if the tin flows, the spring will compensate.

[@pcruz9083]

I would question that. Looks like that actually with the ferrule it only touches the tip of the ferrule because it does not mold like the straight wire does. Also depends on the crimp format as well is not smooth so it does not have a great contact like the smooth busbar surface on the side. I see the point of might break with mechanical movements but does not really apply. At the end the balancing currents are so small that does not really matter but is the extra side will be used for a external active balance...with like 2A might have impact. Would be better a flexible square ferrule that would bend and stick to the full surface 😉. Like the attention for detail in this videos so everyone makes their own choice. 👍 job.

[@BobHannent]

Agreed that it would be nice to know the resistance. While I think Andy's demonstration is good, my hypothesis why it *may* be wrong could be that the bare wires get a wider contact area under compression, but the ferrule could be limited in the connection by the radius of the ferrule. So, I'd like to agree with Andy, but I can also see why it might not be the case.

[@team13thirteen]

Hello Andy, two month ago i saw your first video and after that i ordered my first components... 2 days ago i finished my system with 3 Victron Multiplus-II 48/5000 and 48xEVE 304Ah Cells! Schöne Grüße aus Österreich - ich habe ein paar Ideen von dir untergebracht ;-)

[@markmac9515]

Well done Andy it looks really good. You could have put the shelves higher ' as a precaution against flooding' rather than difficult to bend down :-)

[@kevinshettle6007]

These cells need to be clamped no gaps and completed tight Great channel 🙂

[@edwardvanhazendonk]

Nice progress again, does look very good! Enjoy a lot of sun for getting your cells charged!

[@JB1978]

Happy Easter, Andy! :)

[@jasonbroom7147]

I had a similar challenge with the 90-degree ring terminals, but I put them in a bench vise and turned them into 45-degree angles, which was sufficient to clear the side of the cell. Your solution is also very good, although it introduces another connection point and took a bit more time.

[@coreybabcock2023]

Agree a 45 degree would have cleared the battery I thought he was going to do that before he mentioned the bus bar bending

[@aday1637]

Personally, I would charge separately any cell that was out of range of the other's before connecting. It is a time consuming task but I believe it ensures a better installation overall with best chance of longevity. I built a 3 bank 48 v system using Nissan Leaf gen 1 cells with a total of 5280 watt/hrs. Each bank is rated at 33.1 a/hr @ 53.2 volts (1760 watts per bank). I did encounter a criss-crossed wire in the bms connector which drained one cell while overcharging another. After replacing both cells I went about manually balancing all, individually. The Leaf modules each contain 2 cells and each bank has 7 modules or 14 cells each producing around 3.8 v @ 33 a/hr. These are wired in series, then each bank is wired in parallel to the solar system. Thanks for the video on your build. I was particularly drawn to the detail you achieved, using wit to provide a neat outcome.

[@marktheunitedstatescitezen185]

Thanks for all the insight ! I’m building a very similar system

[@davidpenfold]

I like it when a plan comes together 👏👏👏

[@waltersigmund3821]

Wie immer Top . Frohe Ostern

[@bronnz9239]

I learn too much from you, greetings from Honduras Central America.

[@meganskyephoenix2503]

that pure DIY smell.... love it!

[@wouter481]

Hello andy, i follow your channel for about six monds and i love it! I live in the netherlands, i work as a machine control cabinet builder(a raugh translation). Off course i am not familiair with australian rules and regulations, but double crimping is not always better. I have had a cursus of klauke (ringlug manufacture). It depends on the size of wire, the cable type and crimping shape. The theory is that if you crimp to much you pulle back the stands, thus the resistance increases. And important is the maximum strength the connection that it can hande before it pulls out if you crimp too many times that amount. If i am not mistaken (on top of my head) is that around 2500nm of force with klauke. Maybe it will be benefitial to you to check with the manufacure. Keep up the good work.

[@Max_Marz]

Fuse on the bms cables right at the ring terminal as close as possible makes the most sense because the balance leads are long enough to short against other things in the system, point of the fuse is to protect the cabling and the physical location of the fusible link does come into play! If you ever have to remove the balance leads from the fused terminal blocks that were suggested you're now holding a cable in your hand with the full potential of the cell. I really like how you include glass fuses right at the ring terminals, thats a good practice, it feels much safer to be manipulating thin wires connected to large potentials with that peace of mind that if anything happens its going to pop *right* at the battery where nothing else can progress.

[@etusuku8848]

Hi Andy! It's nice morning in Finland, minus five degrees and the snowing has been decreased. It could be another interesting test ferrule vs no ferrule. You could prepare couple of connectors and put 30 amps or so from the lab power supply and take an infra red picture of the connecting area and also measure the voltage drop in the connection. Br, Eeli

[@awesomusmaximus3766]

Doing a fantastic job there I'm very impressed

[@waldschratdersandersmacht]

hi andy, well done! your way is: think big. one huge battery in your garage, huge currents, huge inverters... my way is: keep it simple. i'm compleatly off grid since more than 2 years here in bavaria. i'm using diy 18650 7s60p DISTRIBUTED battery positions, and localy distributed pv-charge- positions in my 24Vdc system. and most of my power consuming devices are running directly on the 24vdc. everyting is connected via the old 1.5mm² wirering in my old house. fused with max 16A. there is enough time to equalise all storage points., and if i need sometimes more power, the next battery is not far. and with a mobile inverter, i can get 230v everywhere without standby loss round the clock. anyway, keep goin. everything we are do, is better than the use of fossile energy. sorry for my poor english michael

[@porter5976]

It looks to me Andy has room to the right for another shelf. With another cabinet, he could put the remaining new battery pack and the old battery pack on it and use the extra shelving for storage. It is better on the back to reach rather than stoop. I'm loving the long video. The longer, the better for me.

[@andrewbright4932]

I love watching your videos my family and I have been off grid for 8 months now and we are running 600w of solar and a 500w wind turbine and 4 12v 101ah fla batteries wired to 24v and I would love to upgrade to lithium iron phosphate dome day

[@markgrayson7514]

You do wonderful work, as always. 16:50 smoothly twisted and tinned wires should work as well as ferrules and reduce failure points for those inclined to copy you.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you Mark. With tinned you mean soldered? Soldered wires only work in absolutely static installations. Any movements, even vibrations, can make the cable break just where the tinned part ends. it depends of course...

[@tsp2jxd]

My new favorite quote...... "Ahhh that Pure Do It Yourself Smell"

[@totalweedscontrolcom]

Andy you and Henning Wehn are my two favourite Germans and you both make me laugh,great videos thoroughly enjoy them better than to 👍

[@dennisbrok9335]

Brave man dooing the finger test with the wedding ring on that could make a permenant ring burn :)

[@captainobvious9188]

Andy needs to become an off-grid rapper FerRULES.

[@acinfla9615]

Great video! Thank you sir.

[@Theoppositeofchaos]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@dennis_m]

Very thorough Andy! The new pack looks really really good, envy. The Heltech is hell, I think the JBD is quite more reliable. Let's see what is the problem with the Heltech, will wait. And for the main battery busbars, will it be better to take the load diagonally so that the load is balanced on all the batteries? Will it help or it doesn't matter much. As you said the top shelf will cycle more than lower ones in the current setup. Hmm.

[@YouTubeviolatesmy1stamendment]

When you were going through your settings in the app and you mentioned The branding of the BMS the very last few settings on there you can click and change it so whatever you want you can make them your name or top shelf or whatever you want it to be you can also change the date to be the day that you started using those new cells and even the cycle count you can click on that and zero it out again for new cells

[@Alexisz998]

Hello, First of all thank you for every single one of your videos, they are helping me immensly for my solar project and your good vibes makes your content very valuable ! ^^ I searched the whole internet for a battery shelf like your but I can't find one. Did you made it yourself ? The integrated bus bar is a really good decision and such a shelf would be perfect for the two 15kWh battery I need and with a room for a later expansion. You are really doing an amazing work !

[@teardowndan5364]

While the ferule may keep the wire straight, squishing two rigid bodies together with mild pressure will only create good contact points at the 4-5 highest spots. The twisted strands get squished against bar, likely giving you more actual contact area concentrated at the pinch point where all of the pressure is applied. You do need to pay additional attention to securing wiring and strain relief though as moving wiring around, tugging and vibrations will eventually cause the pinch to chew through the strands. For a one-and-done install that may never get touched again for its entire service life, the extra labor and costs aren't worth the negligible benefits. For someone who will likely be messing around in there almost daily for the foreseeable future, the ferules will almost certainly save you from wires getting pinched off many times.

[@houseofancients]

nice job sir !

[@barrymayson2492]

Copper is a sod to drill but it's counter intuitive that you have best results with a blunt drill bit! Lubricantion helps as well.

[@klassichd10]

Thanks also for the demonstration of Wago / Phoenix clamps. But, I am not really convinced. Could you measure the resistance or the difference of the resistances using your microohmmeter? Ferrules are introducing an additional layer of material (what ever it might be) and an additional boundary layer. The copper strands are pressed in a max width to the bars. Ferrules might have a smaller contact area to the bars because not beeing flexible. All that is theory. Measuring of of some samples would be better than theory and could also show the variance For mobile applications the ferrules seem to be less sensitive to vibrations.

[@Paul7mac]

The work very well look up Great Scott on KZbin.

[@Poebbelmann]

But aren't we talking of a maximum of balacing currents of 2 A on these?

[@tedreumer]

I am not convinced either. I think the single point op contact with a reasonable pressure makes a great contact. Please test this with an high current for us.

[@Paul7mac]

@@tedreumer it's not high current.

[@geokiss]

These have been used for years in industry in switchboard wiring for controls never had one failed yet in switchboards over 20+ years of work, also the terminals are marked with there max amp rating on the side they are superb units.

[@kswis]

A system like that would benefit from a batrium bms. Don't know a lot about them but I think it can run all 3 banks from one app. I'm fine with the jbd's I have now, they're dirt cheap in comparison. I do like the layout of the cells quite a bit and love the quick connectors for the balance leads

[@chasoy314]

Very nice and clean installl....too bad about the heltec bms saga

[@Quyoshbatareyalari]

Good job Boss

[@asderven]

You should have a science bucket, after every 3-6 months we can see what we sacrificed for science.

[@bennojax]

Andi perfect work 🇦🇺🇩🇪

[@excillisbank2611]

Existant ! dommage pour le BMS HELTEK qui as refusé de démarrer ! 🤕, merci ANDY

[@the78mole]

I think, the small contact area in the clamps is not a problem, because the force is much higher and gives also a gas tight contact. But the problem I see with not using a ferrule is, that the tiny wires of the flex wire can easily lead to a short, when inserting it close to each other. So I would also use a ferrule for BMS balancing cables, since there is not much current at all and ferrules are simply safer.

[@jackoneil3933]

Very impressive Andy! I like the added space for ventilation, and I'm wondering if when you close up your power rack if heat build-up is going to be an issue? For built-in home entertainment center I added a filtered air ventilator using a low power DC box fan and a solid state thermostat for pressure and keep dust out, and a second smaller unfiltered fan on a thermostat set a bit higher in case the main filtered ventilation failed or clogged.

[@sergepicard1533]

beau travail. good job 10/10

[@sreekumarUSA]

Addendum to the previous comments. Please note JBD sells 200A BMS that has finned radiators, (heat sink) attached to the MOSFETS. FYI, JBD BMS are bought by many venders and many LABELS of their choice stuck on the body , some with ridiculous nomenclature. But the heart n soul is the same. Cheers.

[@libertyauto]

If the negative battery terminal were to run down the side of the battery to the negative busbar also relocated to side of battery, (instead of front), that would give you room to run the positive cable along the front without hanging outside the shelf. This would also require having to move the balance terminal rack farther towards the back of the shelf too, but I do think it would give you a cleaner shelf without the outhanging positive cable.

[@bloodcarver913]

Sehr schön! ;)

[@davestech6357]

When a extension is used with the torque sensor it is actually lower than you read. You might want to tighten the breaker connections a little more.

[@1981dasimpson]

with the gap in the middle of the battery you could use it to run the balance leads to keep tidy

[@charlesk2491]

Thanks for another informative video. Question: Do you have a Class T fuse somewhere in the system? If not, why not? I remember Maddie stated that she was thankful she had such a fuse saving her from a major short.

[@immrnoidall]

Ferrules are also a safety thing. When those little strands of wire break off, they can end up making a short. Imagine one or two of them floating around inside your Bms, inverter, controller, or any electronic board. lol,or foot .

[@beershortage]

contact pressure is just as important as surface, i suggest running current and measure resistance to conclude

[@briannoakes1789]

Hi Andy, I am but a humble devotee to you channel and like many others you have provided such valuable insights to so many, and long may that continue. However at this point in your journey I’m getting a little ‘scared’. Such is the complexity and power of your powerwall that I worry that something might go pear shaped. I am always worried when I see you working (even on the garage floor/bench), with an all metal socket set. This I feel is so dangerous and I am ‘surprised’ that your senior followers have not raised the safety concerns before. This feeling was exacerbated when I watched you flailing around with said socket set inside the metal battery cabinet on this video. I think we should sponsor you for an insulated socket set rather than beers for a while! As a point of discussion I still can’t get my head around the individual battery banks in parallel idea, and of actually mixing different capacities as well. Where is the benefit? As far as I can see it makes everything more complicated/costly and there is more to go wrong? So viewers are now questioning the issues of cable lengths/busbar positions and from my limited experience I have taken trouble to make every cable to anything the same size/length, just to eliminate any inconsistencies that may introduce. I also pull power via a distributed busbar that has in my case 4 links to the battery busbars in the hope that will further aid any imbalances. It seems to work well, maybe just a fluke. Also I am still confused as to the reasoning behind separate batteries? OK it’s works, but (aside the fact that you don’t have matching cells now with the 280/304 mix), why did you not go 3/4P 16S, one battery, one BMS, (may have missed this discussion?). At the end of the day please stay safe!

[@coreybabcock2023]

I've used a cone shaped step bit to drill holes in my bus bars no ugly holes perfectly round

[@fredmartens7126]

Great video :) What infrared camera do you use? Thanks

[@cyberplebs6577]

Nice

[@RowanSmithNZ]

I have been reading about earthing and ground bonding in inverter systems, particularly in relation to the MEN standard that we have in both Australia and New Zealand. I am curious why you have not ground bonded the Victron MPPT units. I also cannot see any evidence of ground bonding on the inverter chassis', or ground bonding of the DC -ve back to the common AC ground, (which I fully presume is the single earth) - maybe I just cannot get the right camera angle - but it would be great to understand how you have bonded everything together per the MEN standard. Thanks for the great content.

[@lentaft8822]

How do you plan to "manage"/regulate your charging between two or three parallel strings? I am having a terrible time with four parallel 12v 300Ah batteries. Thank you very much for all your interesting & educational videos, I look forward to your thoughts on this.

[@ryancaesar5547]

Hi Off grid garage love the videos my question is why didn't you use the jk bms like wat on your second battery bank??

[@boomermatic6035]

Looks awesome, how much would you charge to come to the US and set one up for my garage?

[@bobbinbob]

Good video as always! I’d be interested in individually charging a cell, I have an underperforming cell in my 12v 280k pack as I hadn’t top balanced them but am using the jk bms - tbh it’s not that much of a big deal - it’s just that the other 3 cells hit 3.6v and the remaining one sits at 3.34 - so I’d like to ‘exercise’ that cell prior to me adding another 4 cells to the pack to make my 24v string.

[@tomkilmore7254]

Just use a bench top power supply set to 3.6v and connect to pos and neg of said cell.

[@centerrightproudamerican5727]

I have to wonder if drilling out the Heltec board to make the wires fit damaged a trace on an inner layer.

[@philipkudrna5643]

What about having the cells from the front and the back row slightly offset, so that you could have a smaller gap (eg 10mm) with the same busbars?

[@ALEX-xd7ko]

J.s you are not supposed to use ferials with the normal style of clamps. Yours on the other hand only makes a small contact patch. Nomal flat clamp systems has a 2-3mm mating surface that gets deformed by the feral. In that case the feral will actually cause more resistance . Your clamp block is not normal

[@jimmyponce1]

Heltech shame on you! Lol Andy, I really enjoy your video where you test lifepo batteries, however, would like to see You to test NMC li-ion batteries too!

[@stephenphilp1380]

Make a heavy duty drawer for the bottom position !

[@amudlifecrisis]

Do you think drilling out the 4mm holes to 5mm though the PCB messed up the BMS? Side note, we were taught in electronic school not to wear a ring, especially if you are going to stick your hand in that big battery bank.

[@user-rp8ls4xg8l]

Hi. Thank you for this video. Please, answer, if I have 2 battery bank by 16 cells in each bank I must have 2 bms on each bank or enough one bms? Thanks.

[@YouTubeviolatesmy1stamendment]

You can change the name of the Bluetooth module as it shows on your search screen in the app When you're on the monitoring screen click the three lines in the top left corner then app settings then device model click on that and you can change the name to whatever you want that name is saved on the Bluetooth module itself so you can switch the module to a different BMS if the connector fits and it will show the same name also if you just grab a new phone or tablet and it installed that app on that Bluetooth module name will be read from it and will show on all devices

[@wmneimneh]

Hi, i liked your video a lot, I have two questions What is the sheet material you put on the sehlf? Is it pvc? Regarding the BMS are you linking both bms from battery 1 and 2 and 3? And why do we link them together?

[@kevgermany]

Step drill would have done a very neat job on the busbar holes.

[@sreekumarUSA]

041722/1501h PST 🇺🇸 041822/0801h Brisbane 🇦🇺 Guten tag mein friend und danke schoen. Mind boggling… mind boggling…my little grey matter is like Omelette…..appreciate your confidence and formidable mental strength. The reason for the JBD 100A cables extreme thermal indication could be due to wire gauge deficiency. The AWG 8 cables in parallel is about AWG 5. But if the AWG 8 cables are replaced with 2X AWG 6, you may find some difference in thermal issues. (My thought) or perhaps also due to crimping issues? Overall….. I’m stunned at the engineering. The lower reading cell …. Causing concern… would the issue disappear once individually charged? Let’s see. Have a nice day ahead, Herr Andy und 73s…

[@FishFish1995]

Hello Andy! Thank you for all your great videos. You have been a great help for me to learn more about PVs and batteries. With your help I have managed to build my first PV system and in 2 months I'm moving on to my second project. So, I have a question. I have noticed that you're using 35mm² cable. From your testing, how much continuous current can safely pass through a 35mm² cable? (I had some chinese sellers tell me that 35mm² is safe for 10kW inverters (and trying to sell me cables) but most charts state is safe for 120-130A. An inverter manual recommended 35mm² for 150A. But 10kW is 210A on an almost empty battery. What's you opinion based on your testing? (I myself have pushed 100-110A through it and didn't notice any warming up... I have also seen people pushing 100A to 10mm² which is crazy, but it was just a brief test) I am trying to compile a realistic board with cable sizes and current loads. Official boards are very conservative imo. I would love to hear from you. Be well.

[@EbanQHanna]

In this setup, do you have a charge-controller and a separate array of panels for each battery bank. Or do you have two charge-controllers in parallel to each other connected to your solar array?

[@immrnoidall]

Is the outer metal case of these lifepo4 cells, a negative, like an 18650 cell is?

[@markobotz2890]

What circuit breaker would you recommend for the eu (Germany)I like your circuit breaker

[@SuperBrainAK]

yay! the second battery is going to be awesome! Also I think putting the long cycle 280Ah cells on the bottom shelf is good, that way you can put them there and really do a long term test on it and not worry about it until you replace the battery shelf completely. Awesome videos, you better get charged up! One last thought is that hopefully you are careful if you need to manually balance the cells, make sure that your power supply is not grounded otherwise you will short it out connecting the charger negative to a random point in the pack, where I think the system is negative grounded in the inverters?

[@grimfandingo4177]

You could manufacture this shelving unit and sell them with or without batteries.

[@jonasgranlund4427]

Really nice work, it is a massive amount of hours you put into all videos and help the whole community to grow their knowledge. I was previously thinking on having a 3P 16S battery but now with your help I'm sure I will use 3 separate banks with 3 BMSes instead. Is it still the JK BMS you would hold highest for such solution? I had quite a lot of discussion with Heltec 2 years ago and then they where against putting their BMS in parallel, so maybe you can ask them now and see if they still recommend against putting their BMS in parallel with their own or other BMS brands.

[@jimbobarooney2861]

Hi, was going to install a 3P 8S system, I am looking back through Andy's videos, trying to find why he's not in favour of paralleling cells, if you install three separate BMSs, how does the system balance in entirety,

[@ManfredBrauchle]

hi Andy, take a look @ wago 2002-1781 ... 3-conductor fuse terminal block ;-)

[@Trent28888]

When the 100A BMS is replaced and wire goin to ya circuit breaker wont be as warm but how u were sayin how it pulls 44A from each battery bank when u use 7KW thats only until the smaller capacity battery bank goes flat,btw have u seen the kilowatt labs capacitor bank they use now instead of batteries?

[@markparish9072]

Bottom row assembly, can you assemble it in front of the shelf on temporary support / shelf (timber etc) and push it back in, possibly back row then front row. no doubt you would still have to check connection torques etc once in place and add the connections between rows. At least you would be adding the majority of the connections in the open. Nice to see it progressing and was that the decommisioning of the original pack?

[@nigelcharles511]

Not easy to push 40kg of loosely connected cells all at once. Also if not very careful it would put side loads on some of the terminal posts. I would just slide each cell in one at a time setting up the back row first. Setting spacing along the row can be done using a temporary spacer allowing the busbars to drop into place. It's a bit of a reach to fit and torque the nuts. The only really awkward job is fitting the balance wiring but each wire strand can be cut to approximate length and fitted to the busbar in advance.

[@StephaneGuayMCB]

I have a question. You ll have many battery bank parallel linked but with different size. What will be the behavior of each bank under heavy load, deep Discharge or over many cycle?

[@tonysummers2334]

Re BMS not working:- You drilled the through plated holes to accept the larger wire size. Was the through plated sleeve connected to track layers within the PCB and removal isolated them?

[@nadsas1427]

in parallel mode, does the lifepos need to have the same capacity ? I have 8 x 304Ah and 8 x 280Ah, is it possible to parallelize them ? a 304 and 280 together to have 8x 584Ah ? does it work ?

[@YouTubeviolatesmy1stamendment]

Also I thought I would mention there is a trick to the app of how to switch between BMS is without having to exit out of the app it's confusing and there's no documentation for it but here it goes When you're on the screen showing you monitoring One battery or one BMS click the three lines in the top left then you click on the name that is just below that little link symbol thing that brings you back to the search screen but you'll notice there's only the one that you're connected on it's on there if you click refresh it'll show you all the different ones in range now click on the one that you want and it will act like it's trying to connect but it never seems to do so you only have to wait about one second and then click outside of that connecting box that will make it go away and then you click again on the same next BMS that you want then it will go to it after the first click on the thing you'll notice that the top one changed names to be the one that you wanted it to be that way you can switch between bms's faster than exiting out of the app Also when you open the app if you're fast enough you can click on one and get it to go right to the one you want but they're never in any particular order so you got to read through it if you got quite a few

[@RomanoRafaelCruz]

Is it safe to parallel same or different bms? Thank you

[@TrevorFraserAU]

Can you let us know where you buy those nice lugs from? Thanks.

[@dalescott4570]

Gday andy. I notice you dont compress your cells and in fact air gap them. I think the manufacturer recommends cell compression. Do you have any further info in that regard? While i am here thank you for inspiring and pushing me over the edge to build my own battery. My cells (eve 304k) should be here in october!!!!!

[@adamlacey5774]

How did you bend the busbars like that?

[@renewyers4699]

Hi andy can u advise me on OVERKILL BMS settings I have 2 new 100 amp ones to configure,there connected to 2x200 amp calb plastic covered batteries in parallel x16 in series total of 32 batteries in 1 bank have 2 banks.i just don't understand how to program the BMS. I'm sorry to ask this much from u but would appreciate your input very much.cheers Rene from sunny Victoria.only it's raining ATM.

[@Fomenko1978]

What would you like? Daly or jk bms?

[@Browneye2566]

Would a nice victron shunt connected first thing after the neg terminal give you all kinds of useful info, especially in & out power over time?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

A smart shunt will give you the same information regardless where it is connected to, if before or after the BMS.

[@AnaGomez-yk1bc]

Those tiny busbar are max 80 Amp.

[@todamnbad]

I watched your video about using different AH cells wired together as well as different BMS's in the same system but what is your explanation of why manufacturers say not to mix batteries? will prowse does it as well as you do. do you think it's a way to scare people into only purchasing one manufacturers batteries?

[@caroman6761]

Have you measured the internal resistance of all batteries together? I've a battery pack in work and a problem to get 10 Amps. Maximum Amps are 5 and the internal resistance is 5 milliohm, possibly is this the problem, but I've no value to compare. All contact's are cold on trying to get 10 Amps from the battery block. Next I'm testing each single battery.