3.5" Price Tag Telink TLSR OpenEPaperLink Flashing How-To

[@ch4r3l]

Thanks a lot for this video and your research! I have a few of these lying around, I guess now I can actually use them as well :)

[@hail_3D_print_gods]

So glad you posted about these, they use this model in ALDI UK stores where I work and was wondering how to open/reprogram them Thank you 😁

[@mmkf]

Whoops my hand slipped and accidentally grabbed one 😇

[@matteventu]

I asked the Aldi store manager if he had some broken ones I could have, and he said they have a ton but can't give it to me because they need to return them :((

[@hail_3D_print_gods]

I've got quite a few broken and working units in my tinker drawer at home. not sure what to use them for or even tried your methods yet

[@matteventu]

@@hail_3D_print_gods can I have like three of them if I pay for shipping? I'm in Berkshire.

[@hail_3D_print_gods]

​@@matteventuyeah can't see why not

[@DaveBrown1]

Hi Aaron, could you please share the measurements on the paper used to put the holes in the back. Thanks regards Dave.

[@Antiemes]

I am also interested.

[@danielg9275]

Aleksha shtop!

[@nicoarnold8731]

Awesome! I got some defective units a few days ago, not knowing that you already did the hack here. Thanks a lot! Will try that one this afternoon. Did you already have a look at the bigger ones? I have a 6 inch one here, it also uses the same processor, but this one is in the original package, not on a dedicated hanshow chip packsge like the 3.5" ones. Plus it has a lipo battery inside and the screen is attached with a mechanical FPC connector instead of the hot-bonding adhesives.

[@ericfrazer4736]

cool vid, thanks!

[@2calzini77]

Inside the unit there is a 3V battery (in reality it uses two but they are in parallel) but in the video you power it using 5v. Is this voltage used only for flashing? After flashed, to update the display, you used an AP (I suppose the OpenEPaper AP, right?), is it possible to update the display by the same wire connection you used for flashing (instead by OTA)?

[@cbartal]

Cool video! I'm trying to flash a Nebular 350R-N, which should be pretty much the same as the 350Y-N. What file(s) are you flashing? The compiled link seems to be broken and the other link says the .bin file seems like it's only compatible with Stellar ESLs. It didn't work when I tried it, but the blue light on my 350 did flash.

[@benmaynard3059]

Hi mate, would love a tiny bit more indepth ah breakdown here. Great video and i have been following for a while waiting for you to get to these boards lol. But ah yea, is there much configuration to be made on the software side during flashing?

[@atc1441]

More will come in the future, as mentioned this is more a teaser on what is possible

[@benmaynard3059]

​@@atc1441 cheers mate ✌

[@MrCareyer]

Hi Aaron, danke für das Video! Super informativ. Könntest du bitte noch die Schablone mit den Abmessungen für die Löcher irgendwo hinterlegen? Das wäre sehr hilfreich. Danke!

[@兼明-p2b]

hanshow cc2640r2f JTAG is not easy to burn，Thanks for your TLSR firmware, I learned a lot

[@nethomas1968]

I have the 350R-N, which looks very similar. But, when I flash the code I see white text on a black background. Why is mine different to yours ? And, how do I get text to use up the whole screen? Not just the right hand side?

[@skibidybrainrot]

did you figure it out?

[@nor24o2010]

Where can I get this type of device ?

[@TheWebstaff]

Aldi

[@chesser456]

Why do they use APs or BLE instead of something like zigbee / z-wave? Do you have any insights into that technical decision?

[@whattt-wc7gw]

HI, does the support for flashing reach to SOLUM models of e-ink price tags? Any help appreciated :)

[@aw6282]

Thank you for your videos! I can't get any further with the Hanshow display. Model: Nebular-350Y-N. I made the holes, flashed the firmware, as in the video. The blue LED also flashed. But after that it won't start and stays off.

[@JohnHawkGermany]

Did you reset? Insert the Battery in the wrong way to reset the ESL.

[@fr3zer677]

Amazing! It's black magic to me, but I'm trying to learn and understand more about it. Did you make a video or post on how you hacked or reverse engineered this device and how you created the new firmware?

[@RobertP7884]

need to go Aldi "shopping" tonight

[@TheWebstaff]

Reprogram one, take it back and have "label £1 special buy!!"

[@softkacpix]

could you help with flashing the price tag using arduino uno / raspberry pi pico? I just cant figure it out.

[@toniqq5117]

Hallo Aaron, Danke für deine Mühe - Leider klappt das Flashen bei mir nicht - LED Blink - Das Display verändert sich jedoch nicht

[@richards7909]

Thanks for this video! I have one of these and was wondering how to get into it. I assume it’s either clipped in or glued in from the front. Am I correct? I assume it’s a destructive process to take apart?

[@benmaynard3059]

Unless you can get the front panel off, it's non destructive if you can get that off by prying

[@Peter_S_]

Very cool! Great job!

[@skibidybrainrot]

hi, please reply as i need help, what tools do i need for this? i have a hanshow nebula 346y-n, i have just bought a usb to uart converter do i also need a zigby controller for wireless flashing new images or not?

[@ximonx]

I have a externally identical unit but the PCB inside doesn't have those pads at the top, could you tell me which pad goes to which pin on the HS9118?

[@RussellPearce-gv3kn]

You got my sub!

[@viteosen]

i have from these series Nebular-290R-N. Wonder is it compatible with firmware?

[@viteosen]

WIP: well, directly flashing the device doesn't change screen image. also I tried to change resolution, but no result. maybe its about LUT. dont know.

[@BradleyFordAus]

Would really love a video on how to reverse engineer the TLSR range. I have 100 downlights (Gledopto) with the TLSR8258, and they have really bad Zigbee firmware... For example spamming my network looking for firmware update every 1min

[@stefa168]

I have seen lots of these online, where did you get them?

[@nethomas1968]

Regarding the image file that you send over to the EPD from the AP - is that a 1bpp image file? Can I download that file from somewhere ?

[@atc1441]

You can create an OpenEPaperLink AP with an ESP32-S3 and ESP32-C6 to build that yourself

[@mojo_jojo]

Nice as always

[@Shapshapper]

Where is the best place to source these in EU? I only need a handful to start.

[@kiserleti4d4s]

Go to a store where they use these. Ask for the broken ones. Probably U only need to replace the battery.

[@DaveBrown1]

Did this, was told that all the duff ones are sent away to be scrapped or repaired.

[@ziruszirus1654]

Danke Alexa 😂👍🙈

[@matteventu]

​@@DaveBrown1 I've been told the same at Aldi :(

[@R-Tune]

How can i flash It with an Arduino or esp32

[@6227836jschulz]

Könntest du bitte zeigen wie der ganze Vorgang mit OpenEPaperLink läuft?

[@atc1441]

Take a look at my other videos, it is explained there

[@kiserleti4d4s]

How can you charge these display? The battery csn be replaced?

[@atc1441]

The batteries lasts a few years and then you need to crack open the case to replace them

[@DaveBrown1]

Thanks for this, great work. Whats the model number of the device?

[@nethomas1968]

That device is the Hanshow Nebular-350Y-N . It's a Black/White/Yellow EPaper display with 3.5 inch screen size. I think the resolution is 384x184 . I have a Nebular-350R-N which is Black/White/Red . Hopefully they are controlled with the same EPD driver chip.

[@benmaynard3059]

​@@nethomas1968 you sound somewhat knowledgeable on this, will this firmware work with little configuration? Because he didn't really cover the reflash phase on open epaper link?

[@atc1441]

This is just the alpha version rightvnow all TLSR based one will be supported at one point :)

[@nethomas1968]

@@benmaynard3059 No, as @atc1441, the TLSR based devices are Alpha at the moment. More work is required.

[@BeWhoYouWant2]

Hack the planet!

[@Manu-nr1yt]

It is a pretty silly idea to use the soldering iron for making the holes. It hurts the tip and the fumes are toxic. Why do people abuse their soldering iron like this? Don't you have drills?

[@nethomas1968]

Drilling might easily go through the solder pad, but the soldering iron will stop without damaging it. It does seem to be a form of abuse to use a soldering iron just to melt the back plastic. Any better solutions? I've used a hack saw to open the back, but I've broken a few of these devices in trying it that way.

[@Manu-nr1yt]

@@nethomas1968 It is plastic. I would just use the drill bit with my fingers to carefully drill the plastic.

[@DaveBrown1]

Use a drill and you will hit the PCB. Just extract the fumes and then thoroughly clean the soldering iron bit Its no big deal

[@buddyguy4723]

What I want to know is how carbon could damage iron, chrome or nickel.

[@VoltageGoat]

Alexa, STOP