301. Putting a new engine on my Snapper and wiring it.

In this video I’m gonna explain how to mount and wire a different engine on your Snapper rear engine ryder. If you have any questions or comments put them in the box below or send me an email. And as always work safe have fun and Snappon my friend

[@knighthawk86855]

Excellent job as always Jim.

[@jimjackson9381]

@@knighthawk86855 well thank you for watching. I always enjoy good comments.

[@MrZoom4]

Jim-First thanks, I have used your videos to fix a few items on my snapper and your advise is spot on. I just blew my engine (rod and starter blew 15 feet lol) the reason was my fault. It was an 87 briggs, I pulled the float pin out and it flooded the crank case / oil with gas and boom, after about 5min of running. Anyway, I replaced the engine with a new briggs 11.5 and used this video to help with wiring. Here is where I got stuck and thought it may help. You simply mention connecting the carb solenoid to the start switch. It took me a few hours to figure out it was not possible with the switch I have. My switch is off, S, M and B and no place to hook up a carb solenoid since B will be hot all the time. Turns out I needed a switch with aux or L and that worked great. Thanks again.

[@knighthawk86855]

Picked up the black craftsman/snapper, needed the valves lapped, strong runner now, but needed a wiring diagram, of the ignition system, how it hooked up, as the previous owner had all the wires disconnected, of course.... Lol thanks for your showing what and how it works, turned out I had an extra wire hooked up, and it was shorting out the coil, but all is good now.

[@walterschilling4512]

my go to for snapper anything,Jim is the Guru of snapper machines,Thanks

[@jimjackson9381]

Wow thanks for the compliment ,And thanks for being a subscriber. Jim

[@anthonyelectric6045]

Well the comet I have has a 5hp Tecumseh. Haven’t dug in yet but hopefully there’s no issues. Great information👍 thank you

[@donmcdilda8657]

Awesome job Jim, answered all question so far. stay safe

[@MrBobisadog]

Hi Jim, Great job!! Good info. I’ll check my serial no tomorrow. Interesting!

[@williamdavis9943]

Thanks Jim this answered one of my questions. On your safety switch video I like what you said about never bypass a safety switch. I can tell you about a guy that did this & lost his arm because he bypassed ever wired safety switch & locked the blades so they would always turn. Very dangerous. Never bypass a safety switch.

[@justarel]

About 3 years ago i picked up a new briggs 217807-1568 which fit perfectly in place of the 12HP on my 1983 33" RER that had the 12 HP engine throw a rod an hour having it serviced by a local shop. The goofs left the fuel valve on and it flooded dumping fuel into the crank case while they were doing the work i should have done myself.

[@Charles_S.]

Thanks again Jim, great informative info! 🙂

[@williamdavis9943]

You're the best Jim.

[@krowbar23]

Great class room knowledge 😊

[@bodeine454]

I appreciate the videos Jim, I had a black wire coming from our older Briggs 17hp Twin 2 that was just hanging in the wind and I forgot what it was for, I believe it's the wire for running headlights etc. but I'm still going to trace each wire down just to make sure. Anyway I wanted to share something that I'd never encountered before on an engine until the beginning of this year when grass cutting season began. I'll try to make it short but it was a real head scratcher the way I figured it out, so I noticed towards the end of last summer that this Snapper would not start or run so I took the fuel pump off (it has the Nikki carb w/the 4 screw design) and looked it over and cleaned it, I also sprayed carb cleaner down through the carb to try to clean it up some but the only way that the engine would run was to pour a little gas down into the carb, it wouldn't stay running on it's own. I gave up on it last year and the beginning of this mowing season it was the same thing so I ordered a carb rebuild kit, cleaned the carb real good and rebuilt it, I also cleaned the fuel pump again and reinstalled everything and still the same deal, it would only run when I poured a little gas down the carb. Scratching my head some more I pulled the fuel pump off again and looked it over with a fine tooth comb looking for hairline cracks in the housing, cracked check valves etc. and I got to poking around the little thin rubber washer shaped check valves and noticed that they were stuck to the plastic fuel pump housing, I then took a blunt needle like object, put a drop of oil on the check valves (similar to a round shaped reed valve) and from the opposite side I delicately ran the blunt needle along the outside edge of the valve and worked them loose (they must have been glued down with varnish from old gas). I thought that I had fixed the problem so I reinstalled the fuel pump again and still the same thing, it wouldn't run on its own. Now I'm really scratching my head, I've never had such a problem dealing with an engine that won't run after all of the things I tried so I got to looking over the fuel line and filter, looked inside the gas tank etc and I noticed that the fuel line looked kinda disfigured where it was routed through a couple of half clamps that bolt to the engine through the engine shroud right where one of the heads of the engine is. I assumed that the heat from the engine head over time flattened out the fuel line in that area and was causing it to collapse on itself as the fuel pump put a suction on it trying to draw fuel. I went and bought a new fuel line (black rubber from Advance Auto Parts) and fuel filter and walla, she ran like a kitten after that! That being said I ordered a foot of heat protective sleeve from Ebay, it's a silicone cover over fiberglass, to go over the new fuel line in that area and now have a couple of new 5/8" aluminum line mounting clamps ordered because now I have to clamp 5/8" line instead of 1/4" line because of the heat cover, hopefully I won't have to deal with that fiasco again! Another thing Jim is that I noticed your cough, you sound a lot like me this time of year and it sounds like you have seasonal allergies. I bought a bottle of over the counter generic allergy pills, these particular ones are Diphenhydramine HCI 25mg tablets, and they do wonders, I would be miserable without them, I got them about a year ago at Kroger or Wallmart, can't remember now, and they do wonders for me especially this time of year so give them a shot they just might be the ticket!

[@jimjackson9381]

Jeff Stone Hey Jeff it’s good to hear from you what you been up to hiding from that virus like the rest of us I suppose, well I see you got your issue solved and I’ll keep that tip available for other viewers, I have also found gas lines that looked to be in perfect shape but the inside liner of the gas line head collapsed blocking off the gas flow. Jim

[@robertmailhos8159]

That's great advice DR SNAPPER

[@williammoore1992]

Thanks Jim, This session explained how my engine blew up. It did run very fast for the twenty seconds before it blew. I was going to see if Mike had a rebuilt engine but my email was returned for bad address. I guess it is good to have the original books for my machine as it might require me to trace a lot of old greasy wire. (Ha). Till Next Time Bill in S.C.

[@Mike-su8si]

Yeah i do have 2 extra similar to that engine one intek 18 hp and a intek 18.5 hp thats what i do have they're not rebuilt though the 18.5 im gonna be putting new push rods in and a new head gasket it needs it

[@TheIronDuke502]

From Mark In KY. Jim, One other source for small engines would be Small Engine Warehouse which has a pretty extensive product line. My Snapper 30 inch cut RER has a 11hp Briggs I/C engine that more than likely replaced a 8hp Briggs Stratton engine. My Snapper has all of the wiring for an electric starter still pretty much intact surprisingly enough. Someone mounted a Tecumseh pull rope starter onto the 11hp Briggs & Stratton to start the engine. I think the crankshaft oil seal is blown due to all of the oil between the bottom of the engine and engine mounting area. I’m kind of torn between trying to salvage the I/C engine or repower to something else. Actually the Snapper is pretty intact other than the seat being floppy and a rear tire that doesn’t hold air too well. The only bad spot on the mower deck is the discharge area where there is small rotted area. I rescued this RER from being scrapped two to three years ago. My Yazoo S-24 Big Wheel re-power turned out pretty well other than having to go to odd size drive belts. Right now, I am starting to work on my late fathers Yazoo YR-48 rider with a 16hp Cast Iron Briggs & Stratton engine. Wish Me Luck. I brought my Snapper 21 inch push mower home tonight- It’s like having an old friend or family member back home. Thanks & Best Regards, Jim.

[@victoryfirst2878]

I have heard a lot of engine horror stories but never an engine that exploded from the inside out. Bet you it was a "BANG OUT OF LIFE EVENT" for the owner to say the least.

[@JanMason-qv5xp]

You have saved me a lot of money over the years, Thank you. My 8 hp B&S engine #195707, in my Snapper 25" Comet Hi-Vac Rear-Engine series 6, model #28086S Riding Mower blew a hole somewhere underneath and oil leaked all over. I replaced the original 6 hp in 2002, so can't complain too much. Is it possible to get another engine for this old gal? Can't seem to find one. If so where or what kind? Thank you so much. Keep up the great work. Jan

[@jimjackson9381]

@@JanMason-qv5xp I guess I would go with an 8 or a 10 horse. Lately I have been buying my engines from my local ace hardware store they work on engines and equipment and they can get me anything I need.

[@JanMason-qv5xp]

@@jimjackson9381 Thanks again.

[@WADE-k7e]

Good Morning Jim. My older snapper just blew the original b&s 8HP engine. Could you tell me a B&S model# for a 10 to 12 HP replacement? Love the videos . Have repaired or replace most everything and was working well. Thank you

[@jimjackson9381]

@@WADE-k7e that was a big issue breezing Stratton a few years ago with the smaller engines the bolts in the connection rod came out, and it threw the rod through the block as far as the part number or model number for an engine I wouldn’t be able to come up with something. you would be better off going to your nearest repair place or a true value hardware and they could come up with a model number and probably even order you the engine.

[@derekobidowski3301]

im not sure if you can fit a Harbor Freight Predator 22 hp, v twin vertical shaft motor to the snapper rear engine rider. as some Snappers had a Briggs and Stratton Vanguard v twin on them. as the predator be a cost effective repower and available at your local harbor freight store.

[@jamesarmstrong9424]

Hi Jim, was wondering if it was possible to put a predator motor or any motor for that matter in a snapper lt 1100. Don’t need the mower to work just the drive line.

[@jimjackson9381]

As long as it’s not physically, too large to fit sometimes you have to remove or extend the rear bumpers out for clearance for the engine and it will need a one inch diameter crankshaft 3 5/32 long.

[@mrih1586]

Liked. Jim would you be kind enough to direct me to the video where you actually swapped the engines. Can't seem to find it. Thanks in advance

[@jimjackson9381]

Ck video no. 38 and see if it helps you let me know if you need anything. Jim

[@jimjackson9381]

If you ck video no. 315 in the description box you can download a list of all the videos by number to help you find the ones you need. Jim

[@mrih1586]

@@jimjackson9381 Thanks for trying to help. Don't think you show what I need. Need to see the fastest, easiest, way to remove, then reinstall a engine designed for a snapper rear rider.(Briggs) One guy has a vid on youtube. He removes the left wheel, and fender. Don't think that's necessary. But never changed one out. Changed out the blade belt by just flipping it on it's back. No need to remove a wheel and fender etc just to get the belt off.

[@richardzaring6249]

Hi Jim, I have a 2004 10HP Briggs& Stratton Engine with pull and electric start on my Snapper rear rider. I notice my new Battery that I purchased this spring was getting weak to turn over the engine mid summer, after checking a couple of things I found the diode in the red wire coming from the stator was completely burned up, nothing left. Can you tell me what size of diode to use to replace the old one, so far I haven't found anyone to answer this question. Mower shops want to sell me a $50-90 new stator. Thanks for all your great Snapper videos, Blessings from one of your subscribers :)

[@JohnSmith-oy3ys]

Got a 13.5 briggs powerbuilt.. Hooked the grey wire on the red wire between the stator and diode and im still not getting power to the carb solenoid, can hook the grey to any hot and she starts and runs.. Should i just get a different switch and hook to ignition...

[@jimjackson9381]

@@JohnSmith-oy3ys yes that’ll probably be the easiest way for you to do it

[@JohnSmith-oy3ys]

@@jimjackson9381 thank you sir

[@bkvonhardenberg4389]

Hi Jim. Thanks for your video, I have had almost all the problems you talked about. The thrown rod after 4 months, fuel leaking into engine on both my Snappers with the Briggs engine. I did put in a manual gas shut off valve on both already.just out of common sense, however remembering to shut it off is key. Now after flooding the engine this time and clearing it of gas, it now has no compression. I just took it all apart, no sheared keys and everything is moving ok inside, valves, gears etc. Now I am stumped. I am ready to replace both Briggs with Honda GXV 390’s. Any comment would be greatly appreciated, Thank you. Klaus

[@jimjackson9381]

Well if you checked everything you can see the issues probably the rings and the piston, I don’t know how chaos flooding the engine could cause any issues at all but if you’re going to replace them I guess Hondas would be a good choice. Jim

[@bkvonhardenberg4389]

@@jimjackson9381 Thanks Jim, yes I have yet to do compression test with a tester, but it turns over as if the spark plug was taken out. The odd thing is it happened suddenly, mowing the lawn running great and then the engine sputtered and died. I also had no debris in the oil or crankcase. Sorry I should have mentioned previously that it ran fine after clearing the gas out. Would the chaos flooding maybe cause a hydraulic stress damage on something during startup. Thanks again, Klaus

[@jimjackson9381]

@@bkvonhardenberg4389 I can think of two things I would check and they both require pulling the head you’ve either got a valve that stuck open or you broke the connecting rod and it just didn’t poke a hole through the block my sisters did the same thing the rod broke when the piston was all the way up so it’ll spin over and it won’t hit anything. Jim

[@gradycoon]

got question for you.. starter ratchet with bolt head.. probably from electric start crank.. cant find .. have you ever seen this?

[@jimjackson9381]

@@gradycoon well I’d have to say I don’t think I have a picture of it would really help. Jim.

[@ronaldwprovo5530]

Hi Jim HAPPY 2021

[@jimjackson9381]

The same to you my friend and thanks for watching. Jim

[@Mike-su8si]

My friends says it was built in 09 but he bought his in 2011 that must be why i seen a old cut ground wire someone else had replaced from the coil to the engines crankcase i showed that to my friend and i said someone else had this mower before you bought it because he never had it in no shop for them to replace the coils ground wire now i wonder if the valve cover goes to his mower I'll bet it doesn't

[@mattclark5480]

Good advice shut the gas off. the older Briggs & Stratton is the way to go for me👍

[@dennisconner7557]

I am talking about the clutch disc with the rubber on it that engauges with the drive disc on the bottom of the engine. The new clutch disc, the rubber disc turns free inside the metal disc with the 4 bolts. Should the rubber be turning free?

[@jimjackson9381]

Yes that’s how the soft start clutch works. Jim

[@skyhigh6]

Sorry to keep asking questions, but I think I have it all wired correctly. The black wire coming off the coil? I re-installed the shorting block from my old INTEK engine, there were three wires attached to that block which is insulated. When I turn off the mower with the key switch does that short out the coil and kill the engine?

[@jimjackson9381]

There should be typically three wires hooked to your shorting block one goes to your coil one goes to your safety system and one comes from your ignition switch if you have the wire from your ignition switch hooked to the shorting block I would have to say your ignition switch is bad you can check it with a meter and see if it’s working properly if so maybe the wire from the shorting block to the coil came loose from the coil checked it out and let me know. Jim

[@Mike-su8si]

I was looking for the regularator rectifier on my friends snapper 2812523bve 219977 and only found a interlock module that could be part of it im not sure but that has to be it i read that the module is what makes all the safety switches work but if it were my mower it wouldn't have no safety switches i think on his has only one under the seat and maybe one to the brake pedal someplace under the mower he was having starting problems with his mower not wanting to start either way by key or pull i fixed all that it was a loose battery connection on the red and black and all the connections on his ignition solenoid and plug ins dirty connections im gonna work on his probably sometime in 2 weeks from now just go over all the connections and wiring and im gonna call the interlock module his rectifier so go over that to make sure its clean

[@musicheartbeat1451]

For a 2010 snapper riding mower. I finally got it running. What would you sale one for in good shape

[@jimjackson9381]

The state you’re in will determine pretty much the price you can get for it, what state do you live in and send me some pictures if you haven’t already. Jim

[@vanstechcorral]

Some stators are divided so that half does AC over one wire, for incandescent lights. The other wire with the diode does pulse DC as the AC is blocked by the diode, and that charges your battery. The other side of the circuit is to ground. But some stators are wired to put out AC over the two wires, without a diode on one wire, which wires are hooked to a regulator/rectifier which does full bridge rectification to DC for battery and other accessories, including lights, which can be LED.

[@JohnSmith-oy3ys]

Would the pulse stop the the carb solenoid from staying open under the configuration he showed( hooking grey carb solenoid wire to stator wire between the diode and stator)? I'm hooking it ti switch now cause it just didn't work

[@vanstechcorral]

@@JohnSmith-oy3ys The battery should supply continuous voltage to a solenoid when ignition is switched on, even if the alternator voltage is pulsed.

[@JohnSmith-oy3ys]

@vanstechcorral the grey carb solenoid wire doesn't seem to be getting power when I hooked it to the stator wire between the diode and stator.. when I try to start the motor it seems the stator isnt putting out enough power to open the carb solenoid and keep it open long enough for the motor to actually fire off and start... I would think once it's started it would supply enough power to keep the carb solenoid open and keep it running.. I can put the grey wire(carb solenoid) on any hot and she fires right off... I just got another ignition switch, I'm gonna run it that way...

[@vanstechcorral]

@@JohnSmith-oy3ys Do you have a battery? The purpose of the pulse DC alternator is to trickle charge the battery, not run accessories like lights or other devices like a solenoid.

[@JohnSmith-oy3ys]

@vanstechcorral yeah, I do , I'm gonna run the carb solenoid off the ignition switch.. in the video Jim said you could hook the grey carb solenoid wire to the red stator wire behind the diode and it would work the carb solenoid.. but it didn't work...

[@000one]

Just bought a “like new 28 hi-vac with a 11.5 briggs. I have a 14/33 that needs drive chain . Can I put/swap my 14/33 engine, onto my 28 hi-vac mower. The 14/33 needs drivetrain work but the 14 h.p. engine is a good Briggs engine. Just want the extra power. The 28 Hi-Vac is from 2001 or so, not sure. Thanks

[@jimjackson9381]

You shouldn’t have any trouble swapping the engine, it should fit right on. Jim

[@Garylee62]

What size nuts are the mounting bolts on the RER Snapper motor mounting bolts and nuts??? I’ve lost one and I can’t find one in my can of nuts and bolts

[@jimjackson9381]

Most of them are 5/16-24 thread. Jim

[@freebird1ification]

thanks jim helps alot -need to get rid of that cough get some mountain dew it will fix you right up lol

[@jimjackson9381]

freebird1ification Hey thanks for the tip I’ll try some of that I’ve had this cough for years Dr. just tells me it’s chronic cough live with it, so I’ll try the duw see what that does. Thanks Jim

[@christianvanorden2479]

Anyone know if i can replace a kohler 15hp ohv with a newer kohler courage pro 25 on a snapper yard cruiser?

[@ddinsmore1]

where does the gray wire go if there is a voltage regulator

[@jimjackson9381]

Can you send me a picture of it so I can see all the wires. Jim

[@ddinsmore1]

I took some pictures but I can't figure out how to send them. I'll try to explain. the voltage regulator has a red and yellow wires. I got the red going to positive solenoid. I was thinking the grey wire (from carburetor) must go to yellow.

[@ddinsmore1]

I also have the black wire from magneto going to magneto grounding block (I removed from old engine and put on new one.

[@ddinsmore1]

Well I went ahead and hooked the carburetor grey line to the the yellow regulator. It starts fine but won't shut off with the key. I hooked up the magneto black wire to the to the magneto block and the key switch (off position) to the same block. I thought the shorted it to stop but it doesn't. I really appreciate your videos and expert advise. Thanks Kevin

[@jimjackson9381]

You’re going to have to check it when it’s running to see if it’s putting out voltage and how much and if it’s the AC or DC wire. Jim

[@ericclark8258]

Thankyou Jim,

[@jerseyscaler445]

Hey Jim , I have a similar power built ,but with that alternator power regulator and no carb float safety wire. My only problem is I can’t figure out the shorting block issue. You mention the power built doesn’t have one and my looks the same. That’s where I got stuck . You went over to the other motor and how it has a magneto shorting block , but mine just has the control bracket , so now what to do? . Where do all the wires go then? I wired them all the a small screw on the control bracket that was labeled “r”, but I don’t believe that’s right. I have everything wired up , but I have the kill wire disconnected so it starts and the key won’t turn it off, but it’ll turn it on. I removed a 8hp technseh that had the shorting block screw , but I tossed the engine and don’t have any of it.

[@jimjackson9381]

Well if your engine runs when the wires are disconnected from the coil wire there’s something with your safety system that’s the issue. Jim

[@jerseyscaler445]

@@jimjackson9381 thanks for the response , Jim. I connected the black wire directly to the kill wire from the engine and it works perfectly. Key will start and stop the motor. Only problem is none of the safety switches are active and I want them functional for safety. Motor model # is 21R707-0143. Thanks for the info bc it got me to a functional mower and that’s great for me. Considering tying the safety switches in somehow though.

[@jimjackson9381]

@@jerseyscaler445 Now what you wanna do is take the wire that comes from your safety switches and put them together with the wire from your ignition switch in the wire from your coil and see if it will start if it doesn’t then you know for sure the issue is in the safety system somewhere and you can start checking switches. Jim

[@dljcleaningservicesindoors5286]

Where size wire do I need to to he for my snapper

[@jimjackson9381]

I’m not sure I understand what issue you have give me a little more background on it. Jim

[@Justacogg]

I don’t seem to have a key on power only wire. How do I power that solenoid for the carburetor bowl only when the engine is running? Briggs & Stratton is totally useless and unwilling to help! 🎉

[@jimjackson9381]

Hi, this is Jims Fix it Shop and I need you to send me an email and I have a schematic that will show you how to wire the solenoid on your carburetor but I can’t send a picture to you through this comment section. My email address is. [e-mail] Just remember, I get a lot of emails so remind me what your question is. Jim.

[@skyhigh6]

Jim, I have a 2011 Snapper rear engine 28" recently the oil filter came loose, and the engine seized. Now I need to either replace the engine or buy another mower. The problem is there is no replacement for my mower's engine. I have a series of 21000 Power Built 12.5 HP engine, Briggs and Stratton. The only price I can find on one is $900. I am not sure it worth all the effort. The 344cc Vetec sells for $569 but is only 11.5HP, is enough engine for my mower?

[@jimjackson9381]

Sky High Yes I am sure 11 1/2 hours is plenty big my 28 inches a 10 horse on it and I am no issues at all bagging leaves for mowing grass but I keep my blade sharp and I use air lift for bagging leaves, you can check with Jack’s small engines online and a lot of guys buy them from Amazon let me know what you find out. Jim

[@dennisconner7557]

I bought a new smooth clutch on-line does the drive disc turn free? I have not installed it.

[@jimjackson9381]

Well I’m not sure what parts you’re talking about to drive disk is bolted to the bottom of your engine and that does not turn free. Your clutch disk is the one with the rubber on it and it does spin loosely on the clutch disk assembly. Jim

[@20x20Ghost]

Inline gas valve is all they ever needed solenoids are unneeded

[@vanstechcorral]

I've seen a Kohler run on (diesel) if it didn't have the immediate shutoff when ignition was cut. But in general, agreed. I put them on, along with a filter. Dirt can also keep the needle from seating and leaking fuel into the engine when it's not in use, if you don't have a cutoff valve.

[@justinschneiderman2772]

Hi Jim, so I have a older 8hp pull start machine. It wouldn’t start at first so I did some trouble shooting and added some oil and it started right up and ran fine. I shut it off using the key/kill switch and now it will no longer start. I changed the oil today and no change. Any other suggestions?

[@jimjackson9381]

You’ll have to check your safety switches and see if that’s what’s causing your issues. Jim

[@Mike-su8si]

I got what i wanted what i picked from Ebay used still good parts the old part i bought it last year it came in in 2 weeks and took that part apart painted it to look new and slapped it in his push mower he can't tell if its a new or old part he's a picky person i never told him it was a used part put in so thanks to Ebay and that part hes still using that mower and the old parts still good. I did buy the same replacement part at first off Amazon but the part came broke it wasn't worth bitching about to them over it because i was gonna use the string on my old tiller so the brand new part came broke but i can still use the string so i took the loss on that new part then bought a used one from Ebay its shroud didn't fit so i took it apart and made it fit on his mower

[@bradwalker8831]

Hey I got a question my mower was running like crap so I took the head off to check the valves and both valves are turning is that the reason why I'm losing power

[@jimjackson9381]

Brad Walker There is nothing in the engine that would stop the valves from rotating, if you’re losing power I would say it’s probably needs rings on the piston or have the valves Reground so they seal better. Jim

[@bradwalker8831]

@@jimjackson9381 thank you

[@williamdavis9943]

How do I test an interlock switch on my 2003 Snapper Riding lawn Tractor?

[@jimjackson9381]

William Davis If you’re talking about the interlock module I don’t know any way to test it sorry. Jim

[@o.z.5230]

Hey Jim, swapped an old 14HP Kohler engine to a new 17.5HP engine. It starts and it runs, but it idles up and down and has no power in full throttle. How can i fix it? How to adjust a carburetor or the governor? And which rods do you mean that i have to richten with loctite? Thx from germany☺️

[@jimjackson9381]

That would be the two bolts that holds the rod cap on the bottom of the connecting rod you would have to open the engine up to do it I think first I would take the carburetor off and clean it probably in a ultrasonic cleaner would be best and that might take care of the rough idle and no power problem I guess I will try that first before messing with the governor, if it’s old enough and it has jets on it you may just need to adjust the Jets there should be one On the bottom of the float bowl for high speed and one on the side of the carburetor for low speed. Jim

[@o.z.5230]

@@jimjackson9381 Oh, you mean the connecting rod bolts. Do you know the Torque? The seller told me, the engine was overhauled. In Isle and neutral the governor rod ist moving. Ist that normal? Thx 😎 Can you maybe make some videos about different carbs and their adjust? I have four different Snappers.

[@jimjackson9381]

@@o.z.5230 most of the newer snappers don’t have adjustable jets all you can do is clean them that’s why an ultrasonic cleaner works so well it gets all of the old gasoline and dirt out of all the tiny holes in the carburetor, the older engines that Briggs & Stratton. built that is why they blow up is the bolts on the rod caps back out and then they break the cap And it Pushes the rod out the side of the engine. But if he just overhaul the engine the bolts should be torqued and Loctite it in for you, most engines when they are not running you can move the governor Rod back-and-forth without any issues. Jim

[@o.z.5230]

@@jimjackson9381 OK, i'll Check it. But it is the question, whether the governor is correctly adjusted. Thx😎👍

[@jimjackson9381]

@@o.z.5230 I adjusted one once I can’t remember exactly how to do it I just googled how to adjust it Governor and I got a couple videos that just walked me right through it. Jim

[@dallasrensel837]

How many volts does my Snapper 28 inch rear engine charging system put out ? I have a LiFe Po ( Litjium style ) battery that I use in it. If the charging system puts out too much voltage can I just disconnect the connector for the charging system when I am cutting the grass ?

[@jimjackson9381]

At full speed a small engine will pull out of bolts 13 V you may wanna check where you bought the battery and see what they say. Jim

[@johncenname808]

jim your videos are awesome! i am stuck on 1 wire problem. i replaced my 12.5 hp with a 17.5 hp briggs and stratton engine. the 12.5 has a white wire that runs next to starter wire in a harness with a 2 female end prongs on connector. it plugged into connector coming off engine diode wire and a black wire. the 17.5 doesnt have that 2 wire connector with diode to plug into. So my problem is i'm stuck with white wire with female end with white wire DONT no where the hell it goes or what to do with it! i traced it and it connects to battery side of solenoid. Wow sorry. so o no its hot but dont no what to do with it also i have that black little module type thing on this one. Hope u can help and any of that made sense. Thanks John

[@jimjackson9381]

It sounds like that’s the wire that goes to the solenoid on the bottom of your carburetor. Apparently, you don’t need that with the new engine. Jim

[@johncenname808]

@@jimjackson9381 the white wire with plug that runs paralall with black starter wire goes directly to battery side of solenoid. my old 12.5hp didnt have fuel solenoid on carb, so no hookup wires. can i use the white wire and hook to grey wire coming off new 17.5hp instead of slicing into middle of wires? everything has power and hooked up properly just need to get power to carb for fuel. Help Again

[@jimjackson9381]

@@johncenname808 if you tie into the stater wire, you have to tie into it between the stater and the diode in the wire if you tie into it after the diode, the battery is going to backfeed and leave your solenoid on all the time. Jim

[@johncenname808]

@@jimjackson9381 on new 17.5hp doesnt have a diode wire only yellow wire with fuse midline. can i hook up fuel solenoid to wire thats next to diode wire headlight wire? no headlights on this mower. Sorry for being a pain. not electricly inclined and dont want to burn up new motor. if not headlight wire can i run new wire from fuel solenoid straight to main solenoid? if so what side? thanks again jim!

[@jimjackson9381]

@@johncenname808 I guess that would work as long as there’s no other wires hooked to it. Jim

[@skyhigh6]

Hey Jim, question, I just put my new INTEK 11.5 21R engine on my 2011 mower. No SNAFUs fit perfectly. Wiring. I have one red wire coming from a small black box on the aft side of the engine, has no connectors, and two wires a light gray and a dark grey or black wire, and a connector, female, My old connector is a female with one white wire. Any ideas?

[@jimjackson9381]

If you watch video number 301 it should explain to you everything you need on wiringAnd if you watch video number 315 you can download a list of all my videos to help you find one you need. Jim

[@skyhigh6]

@@jimjackson9381 Well I have watched that video, but I have a bastard wire that is a bundled long red wire coming from a black square box on the engine. It appears to have an inline fuse, from that box to the engine is a yellow wire with a fuse. I did email you some photos. Everything else went smoothly

[@jimjackson9381]

@@skyhigh6 Start your engine and check that wire with a meter you should have somewheres from 7 V to 13 V depending on engine speed that wire will go to the positive side of your stater where the red wire hooks to come in from the battery that wire is to keep the battery charged let me know what you find. Jim

[@kenmenny4693]

Jim, the code read out is 08 22 11, 22 August 2011

[@chadmalugin185]

Wish I'd found your channel earlier I'm trying to swap a14hp vtwin vanguard and I'm having trouble

[@jimjackson9381]

Well I would think so the engine physically is a little big to try to fit on the back of a snapper it would help if you didn’t have a bagger to use. Jim

[@garyruark9506]

22 is probably the week of the year which translates to a month. What is that June?

[@Garylee62]

I put on a new key starter switch, a new solenoid... it won’t start... nothing happens when I turn the key. Yes! The battery is hot... I can’t figure it out

[@jimjackson9381]

Did you have electric start before and you just replaced your ignition switch and solenoid or did you put the whole system in. Jim

[@Garylee62]

@@jimjackson9381 I found out by process of elimination it was the red wire with the fuse in it. I replaced fuse still no go, jumped around fuse and it started right up. Is that fuse necessary? If so I’ll need to replace the whole fuse wire. I tried different fuses, no go. If I jump around the fuse it starts. 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@Garylee62]

@@jimjackson9381 also, now it won’t turn off! Lol 😆 I swear! lol 😆

[@Garylee62]

@@jimjackson9381 where do I buy the shim to install to tighten the blade. I have the type with the stack of washers, don’t I need that shim?

[@Garylee62]

@@jimjackson9381 not the shim for the blade... my bad... the one that you put in to tighten the belt!!!

[@vanstechcorral]

That earlier video was a great how-to. I've swapped 4 engines on Snappers and another on a John Deere 56 rider. I found your methodology very helpful. Another thing to watch out for is that the crank diameter should match the pulley diameter. If it doesn't you can get a spacer to put on a smaller crank, or conversely have the pulley bored out to fit a larger crank. I've done both. I found it also helpful to create an engine stand for fitting and testing, as shown here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYTIqmh-ga2Zd5Y

[@rickygibson3754]

wrong that is a anti backfire valve

[@timothybiggam7576]

Jim. This. Is Tim. When can I pick up the parts.

[@jimjackson9381]

Hey Tim this is Jim you have to decide on whether or not you want this machine and when you want to pick it up I have people lining up that want parts that have exceeded the $200 price tag from you if you want me to continue to hold this you’re going to have to send the money to my PayPal account which is paypal.me/jimsfixitshop I’ll give you until Monday, January 9 otherwise I am going to assume this is a scam and I’ll start selling parts. Jim