31 - Expanding a Digitrax DCC system with a PS-2012E, DB220, and PM74s

[@Hawkeyehunter69]

Fine job explaining how all these DCC components work together. If you enjoy working with electronics DCC can be fun. I personally prefer direct bluetooth communication between a smart device and the locomotives. It requires less equipment and is more cost effective and having an actual GUI to do programming is awesome. Wireless model train control is here and more options are always a good thing.

[@gncascadedivision]

Options are definitely good! For my O gauge MTH train, I converted that to Bluetooth control with a battery pack given it runs outdoors. Works great. For a layout like this, it really needs DCC. Smaller layouts might be fine, but I think this is the right approach for the layout here. Iain

[@HumancityJunction]

It is good to see that I am not the only person that is pre-wiring their layout before they have laid any track.

[@gncascadedivision]

Yep, it's way easier to pull all the wires before trying to lay anything else in my opinion! Iain

[@Vman7757]

Thank you. I needed this.

[@gncascadedivision]

Thanks. Hopefully it helps! Iain

[@tomkirkley]

Wow! Excellent job showing how to connect the units together. Great job explaining each unit and how they work together. Thanks

[@randy1211]

Again, really enjoyed the video. Also using Digitrax and learned something new regarding the DT602D. Never knew about the one screen showing the addresses of the PM74s.

[@gncascadedivision]

I'm pretty sure you have to be plugged in via a Loconet cable, but yeah, it's a neat trick! I do wonder what it else it can do when plugged in versus only being wireless where you wouldn't seen the additional options. Iain

[@Trainsarecooll]

Thanks for breaking it down like you did. You took it from overwhelming to understandable.

[@gncascadedivision]

Thanks. There's definitely a lot that goes into all this, and reading all the Digitrax manuals can turn you in circles sometimes! When you slow it down piece by piece, it's not that intimidating. Just need to take a slow approach and make sure each piece works as you go rather than trying to install the entire system at once (in my opinion). Iain

[@mikeseelye436]

Absolutely a great video!!!! Very informative!!! Thank you!!!!!

[@DIY_Semi-Pro]

Just found your channel, I heard you mention Snohomish and had to hit that subscribe - dad's side of my family is from Snohomish. Can't wait to watch your videos

[@gncascadedivision]

Thanks! The Snohomish / Everett area will be getting some attention on the upper deck for some of the logging / paper industries that were in that area. Iain

[@anthonyshipman3611]

Wiring goes straight over my head. I just about understand DC which is what I use. I wouldn't even think about building a layout if it was only DCC available. All the best Anthony.

[@gncascadedivision]

Hah, I almost think the same about DC layouts once you start to need different power blocks, sidings, etc.! I don't think there's necessarily more wiring complexity with DCC, on both small or large layouts, compared to DC, it's more the add-ons you have for DCC to make it run a large layout, or needing to then program decoders. But, so long as DC works and you can happily run trains, stick with it! Iain

[@BriansModelTrains]

Had my new PM74 just over a month before it had to go back to Digitrax for repair. Been working on signaling using the SE74 using Digitrax signaling syem. Very confusing but I hope rewarding. Your layout is huge compared to my simple shelf layout and I love to see how you progress.

[@gncascadedivision]

My other PM74 has been running fine for the past year, so hopefully Digitrax got it repaired for you. I've tried the SE74 but was underwhelmed. It did was it was designed to do, it just wasn't what I expected or hoped it would do! For basic signaling though, it's great. Iain

[@BriansModelTrains]

@@gncascadedivision Got my PM74 repaired. Any thoughts on what you will do for signalling? LCC?

[@BeardClipper]

Very useful video, thanks for that... you are right, this whole thing is something that does stress me out a bit. I've gone for the roco z21 for the layout that I'm JUST starting to work on so hopefully that proves to be just as plug and play as this :) chers

[@gncascadedivision]

I've heard a lot of good things about the z21, and it seems to fit a good middle ground for a lot of people. Hopefully it works out for you! Iain

[@BeardClipper]

@@gncascadedivisionThat's good to hear :) I mainly picked it because it came with a mobile app so I didn't need to have controllers :) I've had it running a couple of times on a test oval and it seems to be pretty easy :) thanks man :)

[@ericcoughlan]

Ian, a warning - be careful when you build your helix to connect the top deck to the middle deck. I assume that you have set a standard when connecting the bus to the track on both levels, say blue to back and white to front, but when you connect the helix, you will find that it will effectively reverse the settings so that blue will then be at the front and white at the back. Guaranteed short when your loco crosses from the feed to the helix to the next level. We got caught on this with our club layout. No real problems, just swap the A and B feeds out of the booster, and all will OK. Same issue will exist when you get down to the lower level. We also use Digitrax, and have almost as long as Digitrax has existed (we were the first club in Australia to use Digitrax and DCC). As a result, we have quite a bit of Digitrax knowledge among the members. We also build our own loconet cables - we buy standard 8 wire cables and connectors from the local electronic shop - much cheaper than buying from Digitrax.

[@gncascadedivision]

Thanks for this, it definitely helped! I just finished the helix build, and I swapped the booster feeds on the middle deck. Everything runs great. By the time I add the helix from the middle to the lower deck, it'll swap back again anyway. No changes to track wiring throughout. So thanks again for the tip as otherwise I'd have been puzzled! Iain

[@derekalexander4030]

I am leaning towards Digitrax Duplex as well for the same reasons you mentioned. I appreciate you doing this video and breaking it down into smaller steps and showing what you ran into, like needing to have the throttle plugged in. Do you plan to add power districts for short protection and can you tell me if 12 gauge stranded wire will fit into the screw terminals of the DB220, DCS 210, and the PM74s without altering the wires?

[@gncascadedivision]

Glad it helps. All this can definitely add up in complexity, but when you break it down into smaller chunks, it's much more manageable. For power districts, I'm mostly relying on the built in protection of the PM74s. They're mechanical, but still provide some short protection. I'm using those PM74 sub power districts as basically a way to isolate sections if there was a short. For wiring, I'm using 14 gauge solid core and it fits just fine, so 12 gauge should also be okay. Iain

[@marsfromrexford]

NCE burns you at the stake if you make your own cab bus cables but Digitrax gives you the DIY supplies needed.

[@gncascadedivision]

Well, Digitrax _sells_ you the DIY supplies, but I get your point ;) It's also one where Digitrax has all their devices communicate via Loconet and it's fairly well documented and supported, so it's kinda in their best interest to help you out. I do wonder sometimes if NCE systems often have a lot more third party devices because of the lack of adoption of the power cab bus. Iain

[@scottperry6674]

Hi, I'm just curious have you had any issues with the PM74 developing an issue with the 2 loconet ports?

[@juergenamlinger4410]

I was wondering if the pm74 will it interfere with the nce ar10

[@gncascadedivision]

I wouldn't imagine so. I have a Digitrax AR1 auto-reverser module that comes off one of the PM74 power sub-districts. As far as the PM74 is aware, it's just sending the same phase / polarity of DCC signal as any other section of track. It's the auto reverser that switches the output to the track section within the reverse loop. Good luck! Iain

[@sid21177]

Separate the y-cable on the spade end and you don't need to buy another splitter 😂

[@gncascadedivision]

You'd still have the same 5amp current limiter inline regardless.