32. Buffer Stop Lights at Chadwick Model Railway

[@berttemple]

Hi Charlie. Great clip and very informative. Working my way through both ends of your collection here. The latest clips are viewed as and when they come out, but as I've only been looking at them for the last month or so, i was untriaged to see where you started from, with your journey. My layout (I'm no modeller) is very much my own and utilises, whatever i can adapt to work. Great ideas on all your clips, thank you very much. Non of us are getting any younger, so i wish you a good long life, so your tips will continue for a good many years to come.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks mate, for such a heartwarming comment. In fact, it’s comments such as yours to make the whole thing worthwhile. Regards, Charlie

[@medwaypeninsulaMR]

I am impressed with those buffer lights as they are easy to fit and gives a nice touch to the layout

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you like them too.

[@EsotericArctos]

The great thing about running the LED's at a lower brightness is they will last a lot longer, and use a lot less power. LED's are get more efficient with the less power pushed through them :). Thanks for the great videos. I am just starting in model railway and I am enjoying your how-to style videos.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Brendan, you’re too kind. Regards Charlie

[@TimW-pe2oq]

I did a diorama of Brynmawr Bus Station. Made street lamps out of Casper (my diabetic cat) used syringes and a white or yellow LED. Working on internal illumination of buses using Scalextric track and pickups.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

A great method Tim. Regards Charlie

[@peterjhillier7659]

Thank you Charlie for another very interesting and informative Video especially useful for those of us who work alone.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Peter.

[@RingoSimpkinsUK]

Thanks Charlie, another nugget stored away for use after the wall demolishing is done (two weeks to go!) and I can start working on the new layout. Great video as always.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Ringo, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Good luck with your demolition. Regards Charlie

[@edwardwaltonbespoke5817]

Charlie, this is a point I'd not thought about at all. I'd always had buffer stops on the sidings as a child bit never even considered stop lights. Thanks for explaining about the resistors too. I'm wanting to get more into wiring and electronics. Cheers, Edward

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Edward, Hi I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie

[@C-MAGs]

Just love your videos Charlie. I don't have a layout of my own but, I love to see how all these little clever bespoke things are done - and you do it really well! :)

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Hamish, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie

[@hansfehlow9657]

I have watched many of your series and have enjoyed them all.You have given me many good ideas I am building my layout in roughly the same configuration but in N scale. Please keep them coming!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Hans, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed them. Good luck with your project. Regards Charlie

[@PhilipInCoventry]

Brill! Love your track detail also. Our railways are personal to ourselves, we have our memories that are just ours, which we love to see in a picture, our picture being our model. Its your passion to share that is so rich, as you enthuse us along with you.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Such kind words Phillip. Happy modelling. Regards Charlie

[@PhilipInCoventry]

Totally deserved & so true. My Pam has watched your video on the smart tele with delight.

[@tonycarrington1]

Just stumbled over your channel ... and well what can i say... its absolutely brilliant .... i'm just starting my own attic layout and i'm delighted to have found this channel ... some brilliant tips tricks ideas etc ... plenty of hours of watching and learning ahead.. thankyou and keep them coming all the best.... tony carrington..leicester..

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Tony, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed my video. Welcome aboard mate. Regards Charlie

[@7APT7]

Hi Charlie, I have these type on my buffer lights, both Peco and DCC Concepts and are great, like you say, it’s my first go to look, whenever I have power loss of a loco for any reason, I look straight at my buffer stops. Great KZbin thumbs up by me!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Jamie, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie

[@SMTMainline]

Great video, I think I might add a few of these to my layout!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie

[@peterwrigglesworth7302]

Great how to Video Charlie those Gaugemaster buffer stop lamps look a excellent product and so easy to fit, Pity they dont do any other types like say a old fashion oil lamp. Totally agree with you about personalising products to put on your model railway like the last comment said it makes it more your own creation. Keep up the good work .Cheers ... Pete

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Peter, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. They do make such a difference. Regards Charlie

[@StrathpefferJunction]

Hi Charlie. I've seen these before and thought they were an interesting product, so thanks for covering them. I was just about to mention the block detection issue...glad you covered it 🙂

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it,

[@boneyknocknees]

Hi Charlie, Great video and very well explained. Thanks for sharing.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m here to please John. Just pleased that you enjoyed it.

[@bruceames8172]

Great video, I have the n scale Peco buffers and I wanted to light them also. I wanted to mount an led light on it . However I was sure of the resistor to use a 100 ohm may stop me from blowing led out. Thanks again.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you found it useful Bruce. Regards Charlie

[@NewcastleCentralOOGauge]

Thanks for sharing this. I'm waiting on delivery of those buffer stops, and looking at what to do for lighting. That single light looks much more in keeping, and adding a resistor does dim it down nicely. Iain

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Iain, I’m so pleased that you found this useful. Do let me know how you get on. Regards Charlie

[@LJRLowevilleJunctionRailroad]

Definitely something to keep in mind down the road, thanks for sharing! Linda 🚂

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You’re welcome Linda. Regards Charlie

[@brianligat8901]

Glad you had trouble with the packet!! I bought a Gauge Master "N gauge buffer stop" with light but the buffer was actually OO gauge and the light was N-gauge. Bit of a mixup at the factory, methinks.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

But they do look rather good.

[@johncarvil498]

Excellent video Charlie, I do like the way you make the layout you'r own. Iv'e bought Metcalf kits and they look great ,easy to put together, but I prefer to build download kits, print, cut and put together. They don't look as good and harder to make, but I made them myself.Cheers John.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi John, Good point John. We sing from the same song sheet. Regards Charlie

[@jeffrigden4790]

Another little gem Charlie

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Jeff

[@geoffwalker315]

Great idea Charlie. Isolate the buffer stop rails and put the resistor in the dropper feed wire. Geoff W.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Geoff. I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.

[@MrMagandy]

Sorry catching upon a few videos. Great video Charlie. I have used these on my N gauge layout. after cutting the top LED off some of mine didnt work anymore. to solve this i used Electric Paint this fixed the issue. I hope that helps someone.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes I had to pop a drop of solder on one of mine Andy.

[@greghale9972]

Hi Charlie, thanks for posting such an interesting and informative video.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Glad to have you onboard Greg.

[@onnomulder9775]

Thanks again Charly for a great video!!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Always trying to help Onno.

[@jolliemark6294]

Good show, but a simple lead is really all you need, you can get them on Ebay by the hang full for about $2 OR $3 & RESISTORS for about the same for 100, but this is a nice touch....thanks for sharing 😀

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Glad that you enjoyed it Jack.

[@nigelcarter9503]

Yet another brilliant video, Charlie.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Thanks Nigel

[@dmh775]

Very informative. Can you provide further details of the jump leads you are using (from your Dynamis) and where to get them. Thanks

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi DMH, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. The leads were a set of short leads with “Croc clips” at both ends. I bought them from Squires at a Model Railway Show. Regards Charlie

[@modularcuriosity]

I'm wondering if putting that light, with the resister leads, across the rails will mess up your block detection. Because in a later video you showed how to add a resister (10k I think) to the wheels of a caboose or other rolling stock so the Train Controller software can determine that it's occupying a particular block. It seems that the light and resister would do the same thing and Train Controller would now always assume that the block is occupied.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

You’re dead right. I cut the rail and install a separate feed to avoid complications in block detection.

[@amp9930]

Could you reuse the two red lights you cut off and make two more by soldering two wires to them?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I very much doubt it Amp but I’ll check it out next time.

[@jerryallen34]

Great video. Thanks. Jerry

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Jerry, you are most welcome. Regards Charlie

[@jimsmoter4510]

As always great video. Thanks

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Glad to have you onboard Jim.

[@samjdowling]

What did you use to paint/colour the buffer stops? Stuck with plastic at the moment :/

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I think that it was sleeper grime Sam.

[@bobuk5722]

One slight advantage of suppliyng a direct current (dc) supply only for the LED is that you will lose the flicker effect on filming. Needs to be a well smoothed supply and has to be connected the right way round. If the LED does not light, just reverse the connections. An AC supply will also work, but the LED will glow at half brightness. In this case it does not matter which way round tye LED is connected. However a series resistor should be included as the standard AC distribution is 16 volts RMS - the actual peak votage being 1.4 times higher if I remember right - so about 22 volts. That's too much for most LED'S. It's a good idea to have a series resistor with both AC and DC supplies - around 10 k ohms is the usual minimum figure - not only to limit brightness, but the LED will last longer. As mentioned below surface mounting devices (SMD) are far, far cheaper. Good luck with soldering them, it's beyond my shaky hands. BobUK.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

The flickering is more to do with the frame rate selected on the camera. Select 30 frames per second and they do, 25 fps and they don’t.

[@AmazeTase]

Lovely Charlie. Have you had a look at the DCC Concepts Rail-Built Buffer Stop with working lamps? They do a pack of 2 for £17.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Tase, No I haven’t. But would you be able to dim them down? Regards Charlie

[@AmazeTase]

Chadwick Model Railway yes, you should be able to. They are also controllable using a function decoder. If you have a fan of sidings each buffer stop can show varying degrees of brightness!

[@Synthematix]

Ive been travelling a lot lately and a lot of the buffer stop lights are now white not red! i know its weird but its true, especially around the devon area

[@riff2072]

N Gauge England: I could be wrong about this but, I believe that the white lights are use when the rail buffer stops are next to an active line, so the red light does not cause any confusion. A train may come around a corner facing the a red light on another track.

[@Synthematix]

ok thanks, wondered why they were white

[@Vman7757]

Thank you for sharing. Do they make them in N scale? I am in the US. And a lot of wonderful products are not available in the US.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Vincent, I’m unsure if the lights are available in N, but you can check it out on the Gaugemaster web site. Regards Charlie

[@jamesevans4498]

Yet again another amazing video!

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it James.

[@herrkiwi3110]

Great stuff ! Slightly off topic but what size/colour ballast do you use and who makes it ? Thanks.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I think is “grey blend” from geo scenics. Regards Charlie

[@randysrockandrollrailroad8207]

Very Cool, thanks for sharing

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Randy.

[@dakdak7609]

Sorry to be lazy, but did you try / wonder about a bad of dark paint to reduce the LED light a tad?

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Dak Dak, I’ve recorded which size resistor I’ve used to enable future adjustments. Regards Charlie

[@CAPNMAC82]

Ok, it would seem--to me, others might vary--that a person might modify the "tail" of the EoT light to include the resistor for only that one item, rather than have an "odd" bit of track to contend with. The resistor could be hidden with some debris of the sort that collect up around buffers (or just tall grass). Mind, I'd be looking askance at hacking up £5 fixtures--but I know I can get a ten-pack of micro LED for about £4.75 (5.95USD) and some Plastruct (and, I'm cheap that way--you are, what, about £6 /4 per buffer, all up? That's going to add up per buffer. Getting that down to £2 per each is near a hlf-pint to the good per buffer

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

An interesting point. I do find some buffer lights, far too bright

[@johnelliott1146]

Hi I look forward to your video's very good and helpful one of the best on channel but I've noticed that you haven't gone down the z21 route.have you got a comment or a vue point on this type of train control . keep up the good work. John from Bedlington, Northnmbland. Cheers

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos. When I first looked into layout total automation, there were very few systems that would support Railroad & Co’s Traincontroller. This lead me to buying into Digitrax although I have kept my Dynamis for programming and using in videos. Good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie

[@tomlawton7087]

Charlie, nice video. But if you’re going to cut the lamps down, and wire them to a different source than the rails in that block, why not just fit a SMD LED and wire it directly. Cost is pennies, effect is the same. Also, please note that LEDs are very directional, so plan your brightness based on viewpoint. Finally, being able to see the light (off axis) in daylight would need a different level of dimming for a night shot. It may be useful to plan a “Night bus” to power these at night, separate from the “day bus” to make them visible during the day. Thanks for the detailed explanation. Tom

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Tom, Some good suggestions. It’s clearly about time you started your channel too. I’ll see you at our summer show no doubt. Regards Charlie

[@tomlawton7087]

Chadwick Model Railway Charlie, thanks for the reminder, yes, see you in two weeks. Yes, I’ve had the “put up or shut up” comment before, and you’re right, I need to start something. I need to escape the ever-growing list of SWMBO, etc. More train activities this month, with West Camel, DCC Automation, Mere and Didcot over two weekends.

[@AmauryJacquot]

also the resistor will limit the consumption even more...

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Yes, to the right brightness level.

[@AmauryJacquot]

@@ChadwickModelRailway I meant, it will also lower the amperage consumed by the led(s)

[@SammoKarm]

2 of the 100k ohm resistors in parallel would have done the same as 1 of a 50 k ohm resistor

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

That makes sense Sam.

[@chelmswoodjunction]

Hi charlie what has happened to this weeks video Peter from Birmingham

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Peter, I’m sorry but it’s holiday time for two weeks. Rest assured, I’ll be back. Regards Charlie

[@DiggerEvans]

they do look good on the layout, and you are not on your own those packets can be the devils work to open !

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Digger, Glad to have you onboard. Regards Charlie

[@waldenhouse]

Charlie, take great care adding resistors to LEDs on a DCC bus. Technical explanation is complicated but, a “reverse diode” should be fitted. Also, 10 resistors rated at 20 milliamperes equals 1.2Amps - about the same current required for a DCC Loco, reducing the capacity of your control system greatly. Reading on the subject can be found on Brian Lambert’s website at www.brian-lambert.co.uk which will explain all. I am happy to send you some bits & pieces if you can send me your address; perhaps contact me on my channel and send me a note. Brian is not related to me and I am not involved in his business. He is, however, an excellent reference.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

Hi Bobby, Thanks for the info. I’ll certainly read up on this and get back to you if I need more advice. Regards Charlie

[@robertgates7686]

I believe there are 1000 milliamps in one amp, therefore 10 resistors rated at 20 milliamps is equal to 0.2 amps and not 1.2 amps.

[@RoamingAdhocrat]

Good grief Charlie, I love your videos, but the shutter sounds in the intro are the LOUDEST.

[@ChadwickModelRailway]

I’m so sorry, I’ll turn the intro down further. I’ll bet that you’re listening with headphones! Regards Charlie

[@RoamingAdhocrat]

@@ChadwickModelRailway Yep, you guessed it!