35,000 Watt Electric Turbo On The Dyno!

[@B0RN2RACE100]

This needs more views for sure, today’s technology is getting to the point where electricity superchargers make more sense than pulley driven ones

[@Skubasteph]

no its not. the electric stuff is cool but tis not even close yet.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I agree. A lot of people don't seem to grasp that you get far more HP per psi of boost with an electric setup that you do with any other "conventional" form of forced induction. At less than 7 psi, I'll bet this thing performs the same as it did with the Whipple at 15 psi. Plus you get all the benefits of running less boost - cooler IATs, bigger tuning window, less stress on the engine, etc.

[@B0RN2RACE100]

@@AlexLTDLX specially for daily driven cars, no extra stress on the engine while cruising, no extra fuel or heat because the supercharger is off to the side, until it’s needed. The eBay superchargers from 15 years ago just gave this set up a bad rep and everyone who even considered was labeled a scammer or stupid

[@monsterram6617]

@@AlexLTDLX "A lot of people don't seem to grasp that you get far more HP per psi of boost with an electric setup that you do with any other "conventional" form of forced induction. At less than 7 psi, I'll bet this thing performs the same as it did with the Whipple at 15 psi. Plus you get all the benefits of running less boost - cooler IATs, bigger tuning window, less stress on the engine, etc." Care to go into some detail on this, or do you have a video explaining it?

[@AlexLTDLX]

That is a GREAT idea for a video... I'll try to do a video on that soon. Thanks!

[@5riddikk]

I could tell from the 1st pull the converter couldnt hang. When u get a tighter one witj maybe a lower stall the numbers will really pickup.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I agree. But I think it was more heat-related. The header collectors are about an inch away from the transmission pan on both sides, and the car was on the dyno for over 4 hours. We made a total of 8 pulls that day. The trans fluid was just getting cooked. At least that's the theory. We'll find out on the track.

[@ryano8613]

Fan cooled trans cooler. Or..... Love this content!

[@ttzfer]

Wow! Awesome job Alex! It's all coming together finally for you. I'm glad to see that. Cannot wait to see you take it to the track now

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thank you sir. And thanks for all your support - it's because of people like you that I can justify pushing this project this far. Thanks again!

[@jpabon18]

I’ve been here from the beginning! I love it!!! Can’t wait for the next one 💯🇺🇸👍🏼👍🏼

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@XxWITExX]

sub'd! not enough people exploring this kind of tech. Have you considered super capacitors in place of batteries? faster charging that way

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks. Supercaps aren't a good choice here because their discharge curve is linear (i.e. voltage drops fast) and their power density is very low. I did play around with a large super capacitor bank before - I think I've got one or two videos on it on my channel. It's a pretty common suggestion and one the seems like a good idea at first glance, until you start digging into it. FWIW, these LTO cells can charge very quickly - 20c is their maximum charge rate, which in theory is as fast as 3 minutes (though it'll slow down near max capacity, but since I'm not charging to max capacity, it would be possible to come close to that 3 minute number). The problem is supplying that kind of power - that's 62 volts at 360 amps, or 22,320 watts. That's approaching EV level 3 charging, and you can't get that in residential places (level 2 caps out at 19kW, but more commonly is much less, as low as 3kW). Fortunately, it can run for an entire track day without needing to be charged, or you can just top it off between runs. On the road, it recharges (albeit slower) during normal driving.

[@MrPizzaman09]

675 amps for 10-15 seconds is a lot. I've been playing with some series/parallel "switching" of large 18650 li-ion packs using twin 10 AWG wires and I was loosing a full volt I think at ~120 amps. The wires were getting warm. 4 gauge should be 4x larger than my 10 gauge per wire, so that's roughly in the same ball park. I give you props for "appropriately" pushing the electrical side of this. It would be cool in one of your next videos to calculate how much voltage drop you have in your cables versus other parts of your system (like the cells themselves).

[@AlexLTDLX]

I do spend a lot of time using voltage drop calculators. 4 gauge was about the biggest I could go and still be practical. I think I'm only seeing about 2 volts of drop through the motor cables.

[@dennisford2000]

@@AlexLTDLX 4% is a huge number, 775 hp plus 4% is 800+ . It really doesn’t work like that but it’s leaving a lot on the table. You can use the body as a ground and 4/0 for dc to the controller in the fender, or in front of the radiator, thus the induction lengths get chopped. And it could have a large cap in the front

[@robertbelcher5068]

@@AlexLTDLX Have you thought about putting the compressor in the boot close to the batteries? no voltage drop moving compressed air instead of electricity into the engine bay.

[@AlexLTDLX]

@@robertbelcher5068 Yeah, I have thought about it, but then it would start moving away from "street car" to "race car." Maybe I'll build something drag-only oriented and keep all the wires short - like a little pickup truck or something.

[@dennisford2000]

If you are locked on the launch , a big inductor on the dc 4/0 . Would saturate and keep some voltage available for later.

[@802Garage]

Super super cool! Bummer about the converter. Keep pushing!

[@AlexLTDLX]

I think the converter issue was more heat-related. The header collectors are about an inch away from the transmission pan on both sides, and the car was on the dyno for over 4 hours. We made a total of 8 pulls that day. The trans fluid was just getting cooked. At least that's the theory. We'll find out on the track.

[@dylandesmond]

If I add "throttle off" regen braking, what could go wrong? I'm playing with a v-15 and a v3-7hb with a me1616 on a pulley setup. Doing test atm, probably going to use the v3-7hb with nos... only after 400kw daily For a i6 barra motor built for 1500kw daily, running 98 octane.

[@MrLunithy]

Great to see the progress and + gains .

[@johnnydanger57]

Great job! You got your Brownie points back...lol. And no fire, Ya did good!

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks 👍

[@mazda2284]

Them lishens are beast 💪 i run them in my daily too

[@scottc78]

You're already seeing exhaust driven, intercooled turbo gains out of the electric turbo, and that's despite converter holding you back. Very fun to watch it all working so well. How much drivetrain loss to the wheels you figure you have on this setup?

[@redlight3932]

Depends on how tall the wheels and tires are the length and material of drive shaft and transmission all totalling to about a 15% loss if he's making 400hp then he's losing 42 hp

[@scottc78]

@@redlight3932 reason I ask is that he mentions being around 725hp at the crank, and has 532rwhp. That's a nearly 27% drive train loss. That seems high. Maybe I heard him wrong, but regardless I would guess he's got 18-20% loss.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Usually I see 24% loss through the glide and converter. Here we were seeing a little more. I think the trans fluid was getting cooked, because it just sat on the dyno making 8 pulls in total with no real air flow. And the header collectors next to the trans pan, it seems like a likely culprit.

[@scottc78]

@@AlexLTDLX wow that's a lot, but sounds like you could get that down some without a ton of trouble.

[@redlight3932]

@@scottc78 oh yeah man I didn't finish the video haha I just passed the converter part he's probably right about the converter and trans fluid causing so much loss 14% is typical so that math got messed up too when I saw it

[@dennisford2000]

Aux Battery pack gets switched on in series , if you are running 15 cells add two cells additionally when voltage gets to 55? V pops up to 63 ? Adding power to the motor controller . I would use electronic switches, perhaps pwm.

[@AlexLTDLX]

It's using 24 LTO cells in series. It's completely independent from the car's electrical system (at least the power to the e-turbo). If needed, I could go with 24 more cells in parallel with the existing 24 - that would cut voltage drop in half (well, close to it).

[@lyleallyssanashookpuk3636]

Please slap that esc and motor combo into an RC👍 awesome video by the way. Thanks for sharing

[@donnicholson3170]

Great improvements! Eagerly waiting for the next update 👍

[@mark120371]

Outstanding Alex

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thank you sir.

[@MJPilote]

Wow, that sure kicked through the converter like its nothing. Awesome job! Something that I would be interested is uncorrected numbers, because that is what you get then and there on your location. That is what drives the car forward on your location. Oh yeah, on calculated power from NA you should see 560-580hp from that boost when no turbine restriction in the exhaust. So pretty close to that on sliping converter.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Uncorrected was 533.53. So basically the same. Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing!

[@dilbertwave646]

Hell yeah brother!

[@andylewis7360]

Great job, man!!

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thank you sir. And thanks for subscribing!

[@brandoninfranca2755]

If you can Can you run a test of the sledgehammer feeding a turbo I would love to see how fast it spools med/big turbos .

[@AlexLTDLX]

Unfortunately I don't have means to conduct that test - but I'd bet it'd spool a big turbo (~1,500 hp capable) pretty darn quick, considering it makes half that power already.

[@brandoninfranca2755]

Thank you so much . I cannot wait to buy 2 and run a 3 turbo design for no lag on a small 4 cylinder engine.

[@yotalicious]

Thumbs WAY WAY up!!! Thanks for another awesome video! Literally the only thing worth me sitting down today today! Cheers bro!

[@AlexLTDLX]

Wow - those are some very kind words. Thanks!

[@fernandohood5542]

Standard is the correct way to do it especially when runs are done on different days. Great everything held together.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks for the kind words. The only difference between standard and SAE is what the hp is corrected to - SAE's correction is 77* F, 29.23 in-Hg and 0% humidity. Standard is 60* F, 29.92 in-Hg and 0% percent humidity. There's no reason to use standard unless you just want to show a higher number. Standard correct is cooler with more barometric pressure. That's the only difference.

[@redlight3932]

140 at the wheels is really nice if you plan on spending anymore time with the project try a 50 shot of n02

[@AlexLTDLX]

Oh, this is only the beginning. I'll probably go with meth injected pre-compressor. I'd do nitrous, but I don't want people to cry foul.

[@redlight3932]

@@AlexLTDLX wow man I'm excited to see then, I'll tune in forsure your videos are real good quality. Meth injection would show how the tune and turbo do under load which is what I wanted to see with the nitrous. Good luck!

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks. And your feedback on the video quality is helpful - I was alone this time (from a video perspective - many times I have friends to help with the camera work), so I shot this whole video on what I call "potatoes" - relatively low-end cameras. Honestly, I was a bit disappointed in the some of the quality (I used a 3 camera dashcam for the in-car stuff), but if it looks good to you all, then it certainly makes things easier on me. Thanks again!

[@willedmunds3818]

Excited to see what this thing does with a new torque converter. It’ll be a freaking rocket

[@AlexLTDLX]

I don't think I'll get a new converter just yet. I really think the trans fluid was just getting cooked with no airflow and the header collectors being right next to the trans pan. I'll have to do some testing - the track is next!

[@LujinCustom]

Call Russ Moore Transmissions in Fort Wayne Indiana. They can build the torque converter you need.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I use Neal Knight at BTE. But I think the converter issue was more heat-related. The header collectors are about an inch away from the transmission pan on both sides, and the car was on the dyno for over 4 hours. We made a total of 8 pulls that day. The trans fluid was just getting cooked. At least that's the theory. We'll find out on the track.

[@Hydrazine1000]

Out of curiosity: What made you decide to call it an electric turbo? I'd say this would be an electric (centrifugal) supercharger, or perhaps even more accurate, an electric procharger. After all, there is no exhaust gas driving anything, which is the whole idea of turbocharging. But don't let my nit picking hold you back! It's awesome what you're doing here!

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks for the kind words. I call it an electric turbo rather than an electric supercharger (which is, as you point out, more accurate) because more people search for "electric turbo" over "electric supercharger." In fact, one guy posted the same comment (but in a very obnoxious way; not like your comment) like 6-8 times, so I made this video with my daughter in response to him:kzbin.infoQheFyxAWT88?feature=share

[@ryano8613]

Man I would really like to try something like this on a smaller scale on my Suzuki Swift GT track car. It has a 100hp twin cam 1.3L four cylinder engine and I'm betting it wouldn't take much! The car weights 1700 lbs with me in it!

[@dennisford2000]

Same large scale but pwm the motor to get only a couple of lbs . Battery would last for a race probably.

[@jay1185]

Can't wait to see it once you get that converter caught up to the rest of everything! 👍🏽

[@AlexLTDLX]

I think the converter issue was more heat-related. The header collectors are about an inch away from the transmission pan on both sides, and the car was on the dyno for over 4 hours. We made a total of 8 pulls that day. The trans fluid was just getting cooked. At least that's the theory. We'll find out on the track.

[@jay1185]

@@AlexLTDLX Ahh gotcha. Either way, I love the build and love the videos! Keep on killin it, sir!

[@MrPafleouf]

I don't know much, but to me, a 43hp motor can spin way harder than just spinning an impeller. I think that it would have been better to keep the gearing to spin the turbo faster

[@AlexLTDLX]

That isn't the case - the motor isn't powerful enough to spin the impeller faster. It would need about 70+ hp to do that.

[@5riddikk]

I cant remember, are u running a supercap bank between ur cells and esc? It might help u with a few less volts drop which would account for a fair bit of power. Just my 2 cents. Ive built some similar setups, albeit at a lower power level.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Supercaps have a linear voltage discharge curve and are very low in power density. Unfortunately, they wouldn't help with the voltage drop during the pull. A second set of cells in parallel, however, would. And I already have them. I might try that. Same thought process as you, just different execution.

[@5riddikk]

@@AlexLTDLX thats true, but they are proven to reduce "ripple" in the high output rc car world with their batteries, acting as a buffer between the ESC and the batteries, which dont really like huge amp draws all of a sudden. maybe i can dig up some of the material ive read or seen and send ya a link.

[@AlexLTDLX]

There are two capacitor banks at the ESC to help deal with the ripple. I do have a bunch of supercaps kicking around (the biggest one is the size of a car battery and designed to start semis and diesel trains); but in this case, supercaps won't work. For the frequencies this thing runs at, you need very low ESR capacitors. The lower the ESR, the less the capacitor heats up trying to eliminate ripple. Low ESR does come at a cost - increased leakage current. But there's really no voltage ripple to speak of (see the voltage graph at the end of the video). The capacitor banks are doing a good job; and of course, you can't put them on the motor side - that would be bad :)

[@dennisford2000]

MW 50 , would allow a leaner mix and more timing. Do you run knock sensors? I see a large hose to the valve cover, I would put a small electric turbo on the hose and get it down in pressure in crankcase.

[@dennisford2000]

Could bolt on some Cleveland heads....

[@dennisford2000]

Put the supercharger in the trunk , lose all the long cables and magnetic fields, the pipe would be a good way to lose heat of compression. Yes it means holing panels. I would believe you may want a EE to scope it. I believe that it would lose a few pounds, five inch Aluminum would go back and only need 12 feet, five at .052” weighs 20% less and would need a fraction of inductance jiggling. A straight tube from trunk with seats removed, and it could be removed and run na. Drag the trailer to the track and half hour later I bet it would have its 800. MW under hood and the inter cooler in the trunk with ice water secondary and air primary, vent the trunk well and a cool air intake, perhaps a custom deck lid with air scoop for ram effect. Make it dance !

[@AlexLTDLX]

That's why I built the very first "electric turbo" - as a crankcase evac pump. But we saw no oil being pushed anywhere. I think the boost level's a bit too low to see any huge gains, but I might dust that little guy off and put it on. Something is better than nothing!

[@AlexLTDLX]

The current heads flow extremely well - they're Twisted Wedge heads that have been ported three times, with trips to the flow bench each time. I could still pick up a bit more flow from the heads (I left them in bur finish last time), but we're at the point where any improvement in base engine horsepower will just push the compressor further towards the choke region of the map - where compressor drive power goes up dramatically. considering we have limited drive power for the compressor, we may end up losing boost if I go too far.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I'm trying to keep this car nice. If I go bigger still in the future, I'd likely use a small pickup truck and put the e-turbo in the bed. That would address a lot of the issues you're bringing up. And I don't have to cut up the LTD - I've had it for over 25 years!

[@randyderksen4358]

keep going for the extra gains - would like to see temp. data on all the related components - I see the headers glowing - that's one!

[@AlexLTDLX]

I agree. I think the trans fluid was getting cooked on the dyno. The header collectors are like a inch away on either side of the trans pan. I'm going to install a trans temp gauge next, I think. Unless I take it to the track first...

[@randyderksen4358]

@@AlexLTDLX very interesting stuff coming up - I think you will surpass your target

[@AlexLTDLX]

I hope you're right! :)

[@kevinroberts781]

I build large lithium ion packs. I'd love to put this turbo on my 2004 seira 5.3. Any links for the parts?

[@AlexLTDLX]

I don't have a list per se, because this is all development work. But you can see the various parts I've used/tried/blown up in the "electric turbo" playlist on my channel. I have a fairly recent video where I assembled this thing on camera.

[@FirstLast-tx3yj]

Absolutely amazing!!

[@maliciousmushroom]

Was this the same converter that you had on with the Whipple?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Yes, it is. But this time the header collectors are right next to the trans pan - and after 8 pulls in total, I think the fluid was just getting cooked.

[@docfischer7291]

What kind of cost is becoming involved to produce a kit for a daily driver , part time drive and drag car ?

[@AlexLTDLX]

The answer is, of course, "It depends." The "Sledgehammer" is about what's practically possible in a compact, direct-drive model. The smaller version is cheaper, easier to build and well, smaller. The Sledgehammer, perfectly optimized, should be good for 800-850 hp. The smaller one under "perfect" conditions, should be capable of 600-650 hp. The Sledgehammer would cost about $5,500 to reproduce, but it does rely on buying some stuff used. The smaller version would be about $2,500 to reproduce. So it'll cost you a bit more than twice as much for that additional 200hp capability. But again, everything needs to be matched to the car/application for best results (turbos and superchargers are no different in that respect, really, but in this case, the match has to be a bit more precise).

[@isaacfralish2147]

This setup is pure badass! I'm sure you've got a lot of ideas about things to do next, have you ever considered putting in some sort of regen system for the batteries? Maybe something like modern hybrids use? That could really open the use cases of this system!

[@AlexLTDLX]

The ideal solution would be to incorporate an "MG1" type motor in the transmission like hybrids use - that smaller motor functions as a starter, adds some motive power when needed, and also is the regen generator. To do it right would involve a custom RWD transmission that can handle the engine's power - most likely beyond my capabilities, being just a guy doing stuff in his garage. But it is a good idea, though! We're seeing 4x return on electrical input vs. hp output - much higher than traditional hybrids. I keep meaning to do a video on it.

[@isaacfralish2147]

@@AlexLTDLX have you looked into the ZF 8HP hybrid transmission? It's a hybrid version of the same transmission found in hellcats and demons so it's got good power handling capabilities. And the hybrid drive is build into the transmission up by the torque converter. I haven't researched exactly what it would take to make one of those units work, but maybe that would be a good starting point. Edit: this is "mild hybrid" tech and I'm not sure how much regen capability it would have to recharge it's own power cells PLUS those for the electric supercharger, but who knows maybe it could be enough?

[@AlexLTDLX]

I haven't looked into that trans - thanks for the tip. I'll check it out.

[@Darius-scifieart]

@@AlexLTDLX For a cheaper DIY solution. Do you think it would be possible to add a transfer case into the driveline behind the transmission? Like one would on a four-wheel drive truck. Except instead of having the output shaft power the front wheels you could have it drive a small AC motor. Would be useless for starting of course. But the ability to engage and disengage it on the fly could make it useful for regen without parasitic loss when you don't need it. Or when engaged you could add a little more power as well.

[@davidfarmer]

@@AlexLTDLX Get a prius with a busted engine, swap in a corolla engine that has a lower compression ratio. use the hybrid system to power the eturbo. profit.

[@boltonky]

Excellent Job as always and thanks for you time :), Be great to see if a converter helps and possibly larger exhaust headers or different design as at that kind of power i would consider glowing headers a power loss problem. Whatever you decide look forward to watching

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks for the kind words for watching and subscribing - that helps me pay for this stuff. I think the converter issue was more heat-related. The header collectors are about an inch away from the transmission pan on both sides, and the car was on the dyno for over 4 hours. We made a total of 8 pulls that day. The trans fluid was just getting cooked. At least that's the theory. We'll find out on the track. As for the headers, I can't really go too much bigger - the bolts would get in the way. But the tubes are already a good deal larger than the exhaust valves. There are still plenty of ways to pick up some relatively easy power, though!

[@TheDriveByGuys]

Version III should be the electric turbo feeding something like a 68mm, kinda like how Audi already does their hybrid turbo setup from factory (electric feeds gas turbo), but better because its diy

[@AlexLTDLX]

How about the Sledgehammer feeding the P2 based unit? Compound e-turbos?

[@streamlobby2341]

wow thats amazing

[@shaner.5]

Excellent it holds together. I am under educated on torque converters. I love dyno pulls and a great guy to not only watch but learn a little is joe simpson his dyno is amazing and his skills match, 3000+ hp what! Its all about those tricks master tuners have that make ya go, ya thats obvious why didn't I think of that.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks. I think the converter issue was more heat-related. The header collectors are about an inch away from the transmission pan on both sides, and the car was on the dyno for over 4 hours. We made a total of 8 pulls that day. The trans fluid was just getting cooked. At least that's the theory. We'll find out on the track.

[@wesleydeer889]

Alex, what do you think it would do on a 3.0L? 2.0L? PSI? And congratulations, I’ve been researching electric forced induction for years, I’m pretty sure your the only person to ever build a real deal electric supercharger. 37,000 WATTS! That’s literally an order of magnitude greater than anything on the market

[@AlexLTDLX]

I'm not sure we have enough data to accurately give numbers for smaller engines. The limiting factor is really impeller rpm. Engine size doesn't matter as much as base engine HP, since impeller speed has no correlation with engine speed. If I had to make an educated guess, I'd say this setup would make a max of about 7.5-8 psi on a less powerful engine. I looked at the compressor map again, and this is what I would surmise: on a base 200 hp engine, you'd be at 300 hp; on a base 300 hp, you'd be around 475; on a base 400 hp, you'd be around 625. But with the same electrical drive power and a more suitable compressor, those numbers (both hp and psi) would go up.

[@taemookgang9973]

When will this product be released?

[@AlexLTDLX]

There's still a good amount of development work needed; but if you're interested, join our forum at www.electrifiedboost.com

[@markhartings2255]

Great job!

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks!

[@boostedbiker3878]

Awesome work! I need one on each one of my motorcycles lol

[@AlexLTDLX]

Lol. Thanks. And yes, you do :)

[@docfischer7291]

This as a progressive system on a daily driver will be a true benefit . Even if you can manage to charge the batteries while driving there really aren’t any parasitic losses. Not to mention the weight loss of piping , brackets and what not

[@AlexLTDLX]

Those are all true points. Your comment about charging while driving got me thinking - right now the control box can, in fact, charge the packs while driving. But it simply feeds off the car's electrical system. If you could do what hybrids do - that is, the starter motor/main generator for the battery packs is built into the transmission and can give you regenerative braking, you could truly charge the packs "loss free."

[@Longbowgun]

@@AlexLTDLX You could set the packs to charge when off-throttle.

[@johnrosekirouac4071]

Just a shot in the dark.... what did you do with your high speed wheel? I'm looking for one and vortech won't sell me one.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Are you asking about the input shaft gear (which is gone, btw), the impeller (I have an Sc trim impeller) or the high speed gear, which is cut into the impeller shaft and not removable?

[@fixyourautomobile]

While it's been a bit since I've watched through all the earlier build videos, do you have any plans to mess with super capacitor arrays in parallel with batteries?

[@fixyourautomobile]

To add, the reason I ask is I plan on building a 3000w brushless with a 5000w controller and 36x2x2 10ah batteries to make 72v. Was thinking of adding a capacitor array in parallel for this. Going on a pocket bike for no particular reason.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I don't think super capacitors would be useful here - they have a pretty steep voltage discharge curve and really aren't suitable (or necessary) for current ripple control. The only thing I can see them helping with is voltage sag under initial acceleration - which actually isn't a bad thing, because it helps prevent massive start-up current spikes. Plus super caps have very low power densities. You'd be better off using that additional weight/space/money using bigger batteries with lower internal resistance and a bigger ESC.

[@mrgreenswelding2853]

Awesome results. Definitely time for a new torque converter.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I think the converter issue was more heat-related. The header collectors are about an inch away from the transmission pan on both sides, and the car was on the dyno for over 4 hours. We made a total of 8 pulls that day. The trans fluid was just getting cooked. At least that's the theory. We'll find out on the track.

[@robertspata90]

Looks good but in my opinion you need to have the turbo spool earlier so you can gain more on the low end. That’s the benefit of having electric is it can spool down low where regular turbos can’t make power at low rpm’s.

[@AlexLTDLX]

As I said in the video, you can't pull a glide on a dyno like that. You'll get a massive torque spike and the curve will go backwards. But don't worry, the car leaves off the trans brake at full boost. There's no shortage of low end torque. There's a shortage of traction.

[@robertspata90]

@@AlexLTDLX I wish I could make power at 2500 rpm’s and on but I have a manual so the issue a glide has won’t be a problem for me. One day I’ll probably get into the electric turbo thing but it’s just too much money for me to justify getting it.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I hear you. Development is expensive - ask my wallet, lol. But to make a 600hp or less unit is actually pretty easy now that I've gone through all the pitfalls; and it's not very expensive. With an electric setup, you can have boost at anytime. But a lot of low rpm torque also comes with very high cylinder pressures, which greatly increases stresses on the engine. It also leads to a much smaller tuning window. Before doing this electric stuff, I built a number of one-off positive displacement supercharger setups. They made a ton of torque, but I've also destroyed a bunch of pistons in the process and even crack a stock Ford 302 block in half. If you can tolerate it, more rpm (up to a point) is always better, both for the engine and for actual performance.

[@robertspata90]

@@AlexLTDLX Yes this is true about cylinder pressure. What I would do is ramp in boost at low rpm’s if cylinder pressure is too high. The car I have now makes about 700hp on e85 and it’s a 4 cylinder. I rev to 7500rpm and max boost is hit at 4200rpm and would like the boost to be at 3k and ramp in from 2500rpm and on. How much is a setup like that go for? I know those motor and controller is pretty expensive. Will you be selling these as a kit later also?

[@beniirama4076]

holy fkkk, it does work.. but pricewise, does generic ebay supercharger cheaper?

[@AlexLTDLX]

A generic ebay supercharger would be little more than a restriction on not only this engine, but almost all engines. This one is several orders of magnitude more powerful. But it's also not financially viable. However, the videos that show the "cheaper, easier" electric supercharger is - and that one can support about 650 crank hp; this one can support 800, but costs 3 times as much (at least).

[@danejensen6064]

Awesome hybrid

[@driftergonewild]

Lets put this on competition drift car!

[@coqulation]

id love to see this on a 6bt see how it goes

[@madmod]

This car makes me miss my old Mark Vii. I love the fox chassis and this model Ltd is growing harder to find.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Lol. I hear you. I paid $400 for this car. I never thought I'd see the day where these things are starting to be worth something!

[@madmod]

@@AlexLTDLX I think its people like you that have pushed the notion that these are serious contenders. From being written about in Hot Rod magazine with your roots blown combo to now, electric supercharging with beyond impressive results, you are showing that you dont need to ls swap or buy some super richy chassis to go fast or have fun.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks for the kind words. Drag racing is going through a weird time now - long gone are the days when you could buy a stripper 5.0 Fox Mustang for cheap. It'll be interesting to see how things evolve. One thing I am sure of - people are still going to keep racing, no matter what.

[@jadz684z]

I can see it now Driver: hit the zap Passanger: you mean nos right Driver: nope the zap Boost engage

[@AlexLTDLX]

Lol. Yes, indeed. Thanks for all your support Joe!

[@anthonylove6639]

Ever thought about going with an AC motor design?

[@AlexLTDLX]

That's a good thought; but actually a brushless motor is technically a 3 phase AC motor - that's why I've been having challenges with the controllers - they have to convert the DC to very high power, very fast AC. If you haven't seen the bigger electric supercharger we made at the dragstrip, check it out - the results were eye-opening: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJ23h3uhm7iEjq8

[@anthonylove6639]

@@AlexLTDLX Brushless DC motors are similar to AC synchronous motors. The major difference is that synchronous motors develop a sinusoidal back EMF, versus an trapezoidal back EMF for DC brushless motors.

[@vrm86gt]

Awwesome Alex!

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks again for all your support - I wouldn't be pushing things this far if not for your encouragement!

[@jamesamalfi9303]

You really need a nitrous converter with anti balloon plates because that hits more like nitrous as in ALL at once than a blower or turbo. And you should really use som single or double ought o2 free copper power cable for amplifiersyou can get rid of all those 4 Haugen and go to 1 or 2 00 gauge cables and you'll get less voltage drop

[@AlexLTDLX]

The converter has a 3/8" thick front anti balloon plate and billet steel back plate. The car has been a rolling test bed for all kinds of weird forced induction setups over the years - but mostly positive displacement blowers (Eatons and the last one before going electric, the Whipple), and it leaves off a trans brake, so the driveline (and engine) are setup for "extreme violence" from a standstill - it has pulled many (fairly small) wheelstands over the years. Bigger cables would help with voltage drop, but not as much as "more battery" - like adding a second set of cells in parallel with these. The batteries are responsible for about 8 volts out of the 10 volt voltage drop. Which sounds like a lot, but it's less than a typical car battery cranking the engine. These things are pushing 700 amps continuous. By putting in a second set of cells, the voltage drop would go down to only about 6 volts instead of 10. By switching over to 00 cables from the current 2 gauge would only be worth about 0.4 volts. Remember, the power cables are pretty short. The motor cables aren't as affected because there are 6 of them and they're dealing with effectively two AC three phase circuits. But I suppose I could up those to 2 gauge as well, but then I'll have almost 50 lbs of cable between the motor and the ESC. And that would be pretty hard to run and manage.

[@AC-op4dg]

Just leaving a comment for the algorithm :)

[@jayburrough4308]

How much would something like this cost

[@AlexLTDLX]

To replicate is and if you can find a good deal on a used blower, about $5,500. Kind of expensive - for now, anyway. I expect costs to go down in the future.

[@williamzoom]

Who is your converter guy?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Neal Knight at BTE. But I think the converter issue was more heat-related. The header collectors are about an inch away from the transmission pan on both sides, and the car was on the dyno for over 4 hours. We made a total of 8 pulls that day. The trans fluid was just getting cooked. At least that's the theory. We'll find out on the track.

[@daveerrington5166]

The future of boost..

[@emersenandreasen8457]

Is kit available????? How much ??????

[@AlexLTDLX]

This is a system I built myself. Go to www.electrifiedboost.com for more info.

[@nikolasavic1064]

how come that all great inventions are produced in somone' s garage not in multy million dollar companies. Great stuff and I can't to see more. this more like Mate Rimac stuff then Ellon Musk stuff 👌💪

[@AlexLTDLX]

Lol. If it wasn't for what little I get from KZbin and Patreon, I wouldn't be able to justify going even this far with this project. So thank YOU for watching and commenting!

[@quevicular]

How many rpm is that turdo spinning and the eclectic motor?

[@AlexLTDLX]

I go through that at the end of the video. Look for the graph section.

[@quevicular]

@@AlexLTDLX I sent you other messages, did you get them?. They were about a higher kilowatt motor to spin the turdo and other info

[@AlexLTDLX]

I didn't see them; but I do try to keep things here in the comments sections of the videos.

[@quevicular]

@@AlexLTDLX yah like 270 volt 70kw ev motors

[@ryano8613]

Batteries...metal boxes....please.... Awesome vid!!!

[@AlexLTDLX]

These are LTO cells - they're heavier and more expensive than LiPo cells. But they have a couple of huge advantages over LiPo cells - notably, you can saw them in half, drive a nail through them or crush them - and nothing happens where LiPos explode or catch fire. The problem with a metal box is obviously shorts; these plastic cases are extremely heavy-duty. We use them at work to ship equipment around the country twice a month for over two years. They don't get boxed up, just shipped as is. To date, none have suffered any damage aside from a few scuffs. FWIW, the frame you saw under the boxes to keep them in place is made from 0.100" angle steel - specifically, bed frames made from recycled railroad track (think of this - those have to strong enough to support a couple of 350 pounders going at it in bed - eeew). I'm finishing those up now to have upper bracing and will be bolted to the rear seat belt mounting bolts. Once I start feeling more comfortable with the safety aspects of this thing, I might switch over to plastic-lined steel cased LiPos which would weigh 1/4 of what these do - but I'd probably run more current capacity to lessen voltage drop. BTW, here's a fun video destroying LTO cells: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6vXaoWQZauEr68 Go 3:55 into the video to see the most likely kind of damage that would happen should something bad happen in our testing in comparison to LiPo cells.

[@de-bodgery]

I suspect you are being somewhat conservative on the motor power. I'm sure you can get more boost out of it.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Yeah, probably a bit. The motor is rated for another 5 kW, and the controller is rated for 1,000 amps peak, 800 amps continuous. But I think there's other more low-hanging fruit we can go for first. Like matching the compressor to the engine better. Right now we're nearing choke on the compressor, which greatly increases drive power. There are two ways to deal with this: 1. get a better matched compressor - but that's expensive and time consuming; or 2. Pre-compressor meth injection. This shifts the compressor map "to the right" and makes it behave like a larger exducer compressor. This also lowers IATs and raises octane so I'll be able to run max timing. Then there's motor (not engine timing), more cells in parallel for less voltage drop, better trans cooling for less converter slip, etc. I might do a video on our options.

[@de-bodgery]

@@AlexLTDLX I have to wonder what kinds of losses you are seeing with those extremely long phase wires. Inductance at high amperage really kills what you get at the motor. I see this all the time in spot welding. At 12" long spot weld leads, the inductance is low enough at 1000 amps to not be a big problem. At 24", it's so significant that I've lost about 30% of the amperage I should get at the copper tips to inductive back loading. As far as the shunts in my spot welder are concerned, it still sees the 1000 amp load, but a lesser percentage of that is getting to the weld pens. You'll have the same issue in brushless motors. All EV car makers mitigate this with very short phase wires or busses. With your very long phase wires, I bet that 700+ amps at the controller is more like 200-400 amps at the motor. If you have a good clamp-on amp meter that can operate at higher than 60 hz, you might get some idea what your real phase amps are at the motor. This is far from perfect since clamp on meters are not designed for motor phase current detection, but it ought to give you a "ball park". I've talked about this before and I know the folks that sold you the controller told you to make the phase wires long and the battery wires short, but this far from fixes the inductive loading problem. Consider splitting the difference so the distance from the controller to the motor and battery is equal. Consider larger battery wires so the controller is at the motor instead of in your trunk. You may be surprised at the results! Phase amps tend to peak at much higher levels than battery amps. A collapsing magnetic field can make for a big current pulse! I've observed 90 amps at the battery and 200 amps at the same time in the phases.

[@de-bodgery]

@@AlexLTDLX All the engine stuff...LOL...I don't know any of that. I've repaired cars, replaced rings, head gaskets, rebuilt transmissions and other stuff, but never done any performance tuning like you are talking about. That's a whole other thing from my level of engine and car physics knowledge!

[@AlexLTDLX]

I started writing a response with calculated inductance in the cables and stuff, and then I realized that it's far more complex than that - you not only have the cable EMF, but you have the motor's back EMF to contend with, then there are the effects of the ESC's switching frequency and how it interacts wit the motor's 3 phases and then I started to realize this would end up needed a super-complex computer simulation to model, and even then it might not be accurate. I honestly am just going by what MGM told me, and it works. But when I get back to the smaller unit, I should do a test (and perhaps a video) showing just how much long motor cables affect the actual achievable impeller speed. Personally, I'd like to see that myself. Cable length has proven to be one of, if not the largest hurdle to overcome in this process. I do know the issue with long battery cables - that's clear and much easier to understand. But on the motor side of things, not so much. Thanks for giving me something to think about and test!

[@de-bodgery]

@@AlexLTDLX LOL...you are welcome. I'd like to see what your research and simulation uncovers too! I know about these things in general and seen them in action, but never really put any effort into trying to characterize the DC and AC inductance effects so that I could speak about it knowledgeably. Mostly, my practice has been to keep the battery and phase wires as short as possible and that works well enough, but says nothing about why it works.

[@stevenoe6395]

Hellyea bad ass

[@xristodoulos88]

What cr its your engine?

[@AlexLTDLX]

8.8:1

[@xristodoulos88]

@@AlexLTDLX ok thank you!!.. so its boost friendly:p

[@brandonrohrer7914]

I wanna do this so bad

[@tedbear631]

all I can say is I want one lol

[@jounistactics]

Do you sell these turbos ?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Not yet. There are a lot of details to work out.

[@wesleydeer889]

Why in the hell is KZbin algorithm blocking?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Who knows - it's fickle. I'll just keep on keepin' on...

[@streamlobby2341]

If one does that then what would 2 do or 3.....I think you are about to change drag racing forever

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks for the kind words. And you read my mind - I've got a second, small unit sitting next to me. I've thought about a compound setup more than once, lol...

[@izzzzzz6]

now fit an electric supercharger to go with it.

[@dennisford2000]

Large aftercooler.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I think I'll likely run meth. An aftercooler would cost me a little boost (which at 6 psi I don't really want to give up), and because the boost is low, the IATs aren't bad. Meth would cool the charge a bit, and sprayed pre-compressor it would help seal the compressor a bit and make a little more boost plus give me additional octane for safety.

[@TheTopCat650]

😱💜

[@ScottCouch83]

Your amazing, I have loved watching this project progress to this ery spicy unit!!! Keep em coming please!!

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks for the kind words. And thanks for watching and commenting. It's because of the views on youtube and my patreon page that I can justify pushing this project further. Thanks again!

[@wags9777]

Race cars like to break as it is. There are sooo many more ways this can go wrong now. It's a novelty for sure though.

[@AlexLTDLX]

That's why I'm finishing up development on a simpler, smaller and cheaper unit.

[@youdoofus]

why in the ever living holy hell did you use 6 runs of 4 gauge????? i have 0 gauge OFC welding wire in 2 of my 3 cars!! 2 runs of 0 would get ya the same amperage and voltage.....

[@AlexLTDLX]

A brushless motor has 3 phases, and you need 2 cables per phase at high power levels. Thus the 6 cables.

[@neilbeni7744]

Compared to an exhaust turbo this seems like a waste of weight, time, money... Exhaust is free energy FFS ! When you can do this with a tiny battery, fair enough, but it's a waste of time and just attention seeking 🤣

[@AlexLTDLX]

Neil - what you say is 100% false. OEMs are already starting to include these in vehicles; for very good reason (Audi, BMW and Kawasaki to name a few). I'll keep this as simple as possible - turbos ARE NOT FREE ENERGY - they ALWAYS create pumping losses. Which is why we see much greater gains per PSI than any other form of forced induction - turbo or supercharger. If turbos were "free energy," there would be no back pressure in the exhaust before the turbine. In order to work, there MUST be backpressure, which is a major restriction to the engine, because you need a pressure differential across the turbine. Turbos just happen to add more power than they cost. This setup costs the engine nothing. As for the last part of your comment, we're developing new technology and sharing it with the world. I'll let your comment stand, even the ad-hominem attack, since you've managed to instant karma yourself by being so incredibly wrong about literally everything you said.

[@michaellegg9381]

Not to mention the air restrictions when the turbo impeller isn't spining!! The only way this garbage can work is if it's on boost 100% of the time.. witch means constant use of power that you can't supply 100% of the time... Using the exhaust gases is the most efficient way to make boost.. do you really think every car engineer from every car maker hasn't thought about this since the time of turbine's and electronic motors existed? And I bet in the first 2 seconds they realised that this is the dumbest idea 🤔..