3D Print Smoothing CHEAP and EASY

[@matthewprice5749]

Idk about cheap or easy but the results speak volumes about the quality of your your process. The finished models look wonderful!

[@TheLastLayer111]

appreciate it, I'm always looking for new ways to better the process. HB primer is about the easiest to sand (that I have found). My journey continues, and I look forward to sharing my findings with everyone.

[@stoneguard]

Yeah, very approachable, clear, understandable style that made your results feel very attainable! Having said that, I do agree that I don’t know if easy is the right word to describe. Probably simple, but it definitely takes work!

[@penguinsplace1642]

🎉😊😮 0:13 7 😢 0:23 0:25 😮😮Hopefully will be getting out over the weekend. I don't know if you watch Archer on TV but I made ringtone from one of the episodes lol 😮 0:42 😊 0:44 * 0:46

[@protocolcosplay]

As a C-3PO builder and wearer, this method speaks to me SO much. I wasted so much of this 2K primer and ruined a few HVLP guns because I didn't know how to spray it properly. But seeing this, and seeing how I can just brush it on, makes me SO happy. Thank you so much for sharing this. I would love to see how you apply your clear coats as well!

[@TheLastLayer111]

Love it, I just finished an Astromech/Baddley R2. 3PO is on my to-do list. Have fun

[@SciFiPainter]

never got into 3d printing, but those look really great. nice work.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Thank You. Its a very enjoyable hobby.

[@RepsyHD]

Never thought about the option that you also can brush stuff on the prints. i just always used the filler primer spray can. Nice video... helped a lot !

[@davidwilliams9967]

Great video and great tips!

[@MigMonkey]

I have a large compressor, and a spray gun but I never use 2K because the cleanup is always so much work compared to the time priming.. it never once crossed my mind to brush it on.. very smart!

[@TheLastLayer111]

You can roll it on also, If you use one of those 4in disposable foam smooth paint rollers, that works excellent also. especially on larger flat or rounded areas, like tops of helmets and chest armor. then just use a brush to get in to the tight spots. Have Fun

[@komoru]

Having worked in automotive bodyshop, FeatherFill makes a polyester-based super high build primer, which might be even better for the task. That would give you even more buildup, but you'll need an HVLP spray gun with a pretty big nozzle (like 2.0 or larger tip). It's basically like spray on bondo. The stuff is even thicker than your 2k high build sandable primer, but you'd probably be done with one coat of this stuff.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Im going to try it. Someone else commented on it. The HB primer I use can pretty much get it done in one coat, i use a light coat of the HB spray can primer just to wet sand the last coat to 400. Great suggestion, ill get some and give it a try

[@PixelsToPrints]

This is awesome! I will be trying out this method very soon! Thank you

[@TheLastLayer111]

great to hear, Enjoy.

[@jonnb42]

I just subscribed after watching your video's. I made a full size R2-D2 4 years ago but never painted it because i didn't know how to fill the lines Easly. I am going to try your method.

[@TheLastLayer111]

awesome build, When I did my R2 I used brushes and I also rolled quite a bit with the high build primer. I show him briefly in the beginning of my Scigrip gluing video. Enjoy the project, that's a good one.

[@RayOrsini]

Thanks for this video. I almost never paint finish 3D prints because of how time consuming it is. This seems much more reasonable and efficient. Looking forward to trying it out. Thanks!

[@TheLastLayer111]

its always going to take some time and elbow grease, but this is the fastest way I have found, primarily because the primer is designed to be sanded, and it sands relatively easy.

[@CubeRhinoDev]

@@TheLastLayer111 have you ever experimented with sandblasting? ive considered trying it but i dont have the space for a whole setup

[@TheLastLayer111]

@@CubeRhinoDev Actually, I Have. Its kinda works to an extent. Its messy, even with a little contained sand blast booth, and I always manage to get dust all over in my garage. It also imbeds into the plastic. and its hard to clean. There may be better media options, but I just used sand. For the mess I prefer to just sand the primer. If you experiment with it, Let me know how it works for you.

[@CubeRhinoDev]

@@TheLastLayer111 my thing is i do a lot of small full color 3d prints that we sell for cheap in our local bakery. little cute bear characters and keychains, finishing all of them manually with sanding, its tough they are only like 50mm tall and im printing sheets of them. was just looking at ways to get rid of more layer lines but maybe the tech just isnt there yet. was going to try a media blasting cabinet or maybe a tumbler even? not sure but the algorithm put me in front of your video

[@TheLastLayer111]

@@CubeRhinoDev doesn't hurt to try, actually trying new things is one of my favorite parts about the hobby. Tumbler is interesting. I never tried that. Please let me know how it works out.

[@cuthwulf]

Great video. You can definitely tell the quality of primer makes a difference. Can't wait to see the paint video. Would be nice to have one that took a project from printing all the way through to finish, just so it could show how to size the piece, print settings, and final fit. I'm just getting into cosplay and would love to see more tutorials like that.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Glad you enjoyed it, I'm actually putting a series out and just released a video on glazing. I'm planning on taking that build from start to finish.

[@TheLastLayer111]

That series will be primarily based on the painting, but I also have plans to put together some videos on the printing side.

[@LScott97]

Great video, really helpful. Thank you👍👍👍

[@TheLastLayer111]

Glad it was helpful!

[@TheDailyMemesShow]

I had to subscribe because your work is so good, yet so underrated, really. YOU are providing far more real value than those big channels that are just throwing out random nonsense for the masses... Don't let anyone tell you otherwise! My words right here are akin to a glass of water, holding together the fluidity that the truth entails 😊

[@TheLastLayer111]

thank you for the encouragement.

[@TheDailyMemesShow]

@@TheLastLayer111 You deserve the best, always ☺️👍

[@cinful1]

I’ve been doing UV resin and it’s pretty quick and doesn’t lose a lot of detail plus adds strength. This is the second time I’ve seen your method. I may have to give it a shot

[@TheLastLayer111]

I do use resin also in certain situations. For example in my gluing video, I show the Predator Head, I used resin on that, due to the surface (very bumpy). But for smooth surfaces I typically Glaze.

[@CubeRhinoDev]

with uv resin can you do a clear or clearish coat? ideally id want to FDM print in full color and apply a layer overtop to reduce the look of layer lines without a lot of sanding and painting work

[@Stackingplastic]

thank you man, spent the last 2 days and the rest of tomorrow working on this armor for a customer and had no idea about the automotive primer. Def going to try this out

[@fezwhy]

Fantastic video. Looking forward to more videos in the future.

[@Bruhzq]

Love this thank you for making the video!

[@TheLastLayer111]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@Iamtherodlight1453.]

Thank you sir, for making this video really helpful

[@3DHP]

4k Primer,never tried that. Thanks for your video, I subscribed and liked.

[@BOJA_FETT]

Best man and super described! Thank you🙏

[@helishskills]

This is brilliant! Thank you for taking the time and sharing your knowledge.

[@Nick-xe2hu]

This reminds me of Slick Sand from back in the day (think its called something else now) which for all practical purposes was like spray on Bondo. Very heavy fill and amazing. I always shot it but I'll try this method. Thanks

[@TheLastLayer111]

try rolling it also, I have a friend that uses 4 inch foam paint rollers on car hoods and guide coats them. they come out beautiful.

[@Nick-xe2hu]

@@TheLastLayer111 how do you think it would perform on MDF? I have a project that's a combination of MDF and FDM 3D materials

[@TheLastLayer111]

I works great on MDF and wood, its a solvent based product so it will not swell up the grain when working with wood. I had a friend who worked in a body shop and he did a lot of woodworking, he primed and painted everything like this including MDF.

[@Nick-xe2hu]

@@TheLastLayer111 awesome. Thanks so much

[@ryanbwilkinson89]

Slick sand works well on mdf. I have used it before. I bondo filled screw heads and seams before slick sand application though.

[@AfraDuvall]

Great video . Print the helmet, I highly recommend you have an flsun S1 if you don't have one .

[@TheLastLayer111]

I heard a lot of good things about them. Need to look in to it. Thanks.

[@StikoMode]

This is awesome! I use a mixture of acetone and bondo, it works well but I think I’ll give your method a try once I run out! Great video, very informative!

[@TheLastLayer111]

I did it that way for a long time, its messy and takes a long time to dry. I switched and will never go back. I glaze the big imperfections and use HB primer on everything else. Have fun

[@StikoMode]

@@TheLastLayer111 depending on how much acetone you add it can dry within seconds of putting it on, at least that’s how it is for me. Doing full strength bondo does take a little longer though.

[@TheLastLayer111]

@@StikoMode Glaze is a lot like thin Bondo. I haven't used the spot putty in a long time. I actually did the acetone trick when I first started and it worked good. the biggest thing I found was that the more acetone I added the more the putty shrank. I was getting some lines popping out after it was painted. I haven't had any issues with the glaze shrinking. Just play around and experiment, that's half the fun.

[@StikoMode]

@@TheLastLayer111 I do get some shrinking when I use the bondo mixture, I’m still new to finishing 3d prints so I’ll keep experimenting and see what works the best. Thanks for the feedback and video!

[@andyb7029]

Great tip video. I currently use rustoleum 2 in 1 filler primer I will have to look into this.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Give it a try, I think you will be happy with the results. I have tried every box store brand I could find, and always come back to automotive High Build primers. Spray can or 2 part, they save time and money in the long run. Have Fun.

[@TheWookieefoot]

You must be a body tech. Us painters wouldn't have a Snap On box like that! 😂 I appreciate the video. This is how I finish my prints also. I feel bad for all the people using rattle can primer from HD. They dont get how thick our automotive primers are. I never thought to pick up some cheaper primer off Amazon. I usually prime stuff at work... but i hate explaining to co-workers what 3d printing is, why Im priming a Star wars helmet and armor.🙄 Definitely picking up a gallon and agitator. Thanks for the tip!! Subbed!

[@TheLastLayer111]

thanks for the comments, and yes I used to be in the auto industry. When I started 3D printing, the finishing just seemed like what I did. I really enjoy making and finishing stuff. I'm glad to see everyone on the channel with similar interests. We all have a lot we can learn together. Most of all just have fun

[@themajornoob239]

amazing video. proud to be your 50th subscriber!

[@TheLastLayer111]

Thank You for your support. Plenty more to come.

[@themajornoob239]

@@TheLastLayer111 i look forward to it! these few videos you have, are some of the best tutorials i have ever seen for smoothing helmets

[@TheLastLayer111]

@@themajornoob239 thank you, There are more to come.

[@krasspenn]

Great job

[@stephengolaski6451]

I have been using "upol expert sandable high build primer" in rattle cans and having great success with it. it is available locally in many places through auto parts stores. perhaps you could do a comparison video featuring this and other primers. that might prove interesting. I am defiantly going to try your 2 part primer suggestion. keep the videos coming. painting and sanding are the bane of a prop guys existence. anything to make it more efficient is so welcome.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Great Idea, I have been wondering how some of the different products compare. I will definitely put it on the list

[@BendtProductions]

Thank you

[@Daemonforce-Gaming]

awsum video thank you

[@djanevski]

Great tips thank you

[@snowwolvesproductions]

Thanks for sharing. I really want to see how you apply the gloss.

[@jaredunruh9326]

Great video! What would you recommend for filling large gaps? Wood filler, Bondo, something else? If I use a filler product would the process be to add the product before and primer or would I have better adhesion doing primer, then filler followed by the spray primer and finish. Thanks again!

[@TheLastLayer111]

Depending on how large the gap, you can use several things. For very large gaps, using a 3D pen or welding filament in works great. For mid size gaps, I quite often use Bondo (its a bit thicker than glaze). I usually do all the prep work and gap filling, prior to priming. Keep in mind that different types of filament has different adhesion properties. That being said, always test a spot first. If you are nervous that the body filler may not adhere properly, you can always scuff the area first.

[@davidcooper574]

Nice work.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Thank you

[@RidewithMaromar313]

Replacing the paint can tops with the dual WD-40 tops spray the paints much better too.

[@TheLastLayer111]

I've heard of that, going to have to try it.

[@markm75]

Nice video, does it matter the type of respirator being used or is a $20 amazon one with filters good enough in this scenario? And is it ok to mix and do the brushing in a basement, or better to do it in the basement but in an airbrush box with the hose that goes out the window.. im assuming the spray on primer should be done outside and not even in the airbrush box?

[@TheLastLayer111]

I have always used the 3M respirators, I would just make sure they are rated for chemicals and painting. As far as mixing, the solvents can be very strong, make sure you are doing it in a well ventilated area.

[@markm75]

@@TheLastLayer111 Yeah i picked a p100 3m one, should be good there, id mix the primer using the airbrush booth i think. For your storm trooper helmets, what sort of final coats are those, are they paint brushed on or rattle cans etc? Id stick to outside for cans. Thanks for the tips

[@TheLastLayer111]

@@markm75 if you are referring to the clear coat, I use automotive clear, sprayed out of a spray gun. You can take a look at my other videos, I go through the process in depth. Hope that helps.

[@WhereNerdyisCool]

Hey great info...you gained a subscriber! Also - I'm working on an Iron Man Mk3 build , have you used the foam sanding blocks 3M sells? I was curious if that makes sanding all those curved surfaces easier than paper

[@TheLastLayer111]

I have used them, they work great. Anything that makes it easier. have fun, that's a great build

[@Vaaari1]

Nice video! Do you remember who the designer of Saurons helmet is?

[@TheLastLayer111]

It was NIkko Industries

[@Top-Jimmy]

Very cool vid... subbed. What material are these printed in? Will PLA+ work?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Absolutely, I use PLA+ all the time. these were printed in Elegoo PLA.

[@ewen832]

I really liked your video, I hope you continue to share your knowledge. You mentioned previous builds in this video, did you create videos that are not attached to this account.

[@TheLastLayer111]

Unfortunately, I did not record them. Moving forward I am planning on documenting all my builds. Stick with the channel, there is a lot more to come. I should be releasing another video in the next few days, (painting) my favorite.

[@Ey3ball_Armory]

Nice work

[@TheLastLayer111]

Thank you

[@TheLastLayer111]

I accidentally removed your comment, The Item number for the Eastwood spray primer is #23577Z. Sorry I hit the wrong button.

[@karmapolice9477]

Do you think some filaments would do better than others with this method? Thank you so much!

[@TheLastLayer111]

If we are talking just PLA to PLA from different manufacturers then I have not seen a big difference in the finishing technique. I print a lot of BIG stuff and filament cost is a factor. I quite often find the least expensive/sale filament I can on line and use that (as long as you printer likes it). If you get in to other types like ABS, PETG, ASA. then its kind of up in the air. I used PETG and ABS on my R2D2 and it finished the exact same way as PLA. But I always tell people to try it before you commit to buying 25+ rolls for something like R2.

[@karmapolice9477]

@@TheLastLayer111 Thanks so much. I didn't think the helmet was made in PLA. I thought it would be a no-go because of the low temp resistance of it. Well that's good, because I much prefer printing in PLA. Thank you again!

[@allysoncruz]

Great job, sir. let me ask you something. What 3D printer do you use to make these incredible models?

[@TheLastLayer111]

I have a few, but for the bigger models I typically use my Anycubic Kobra 2 Max. For the smaller ones I use my Bamboo.

[@markm75]

Would this paint on primer be too thick for features of say a Battle Droid ("roger roger") with alot of seams and lines, i assume?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Probably, you can thin it out some with reducer, but it will fill small details if you are not careful

[@treborrrrr]

Here's a dumb question for ya. Are you able to save the mixed up primer throughout the multiple coats or does the catalyst make it cure too quickly so you end up making a new batch for each layer?

[@TheLastLayer111]

thats actually a real good question. Depending on how thick you apply the first coat (if you are brushing) then typically you have time to put a second on, or at least fix areas where you need a little more. it may start to thicken a bit in the cup, but I still use it, especially for touch ups. One good thing about the Roberlo HB primer, is that it can be applied wet on wet.

[@treborrrrr]

@@TheLastLayer111 Cool, thanks. Might have to look into getting some of this, or a local equivalent, to add to the arsenal. The cost of spray primer/filler adds up real quick...

[@ShayVidas]

it's 100+ usd and you end up sanding it anyway, so why not use cheap filler and sand ? what would be the difference ? in anyway as been said here your work is amazing and very good quality

[@TheLastLayer111]

automotive primers have very little shrinkage, that is actually one of the biggest benefits, there is nothing worse than finishing a print and a week later layer lines start showing through. Any good automotive 2K Urethane High Build Primer will work. Every body shop supply shop sells it. You can buy it in quarts and that naturally is cheaper. Ill see if I can find a quart setup on Amazon and do a video testing it.

[@stefaniedc1128]

can you use acetone to thin this down? And can you use acetone to clean this off your brush?

[@TheLastLayer111]

I Never tried Acetone, It evaporates very fast. I typically just use any medium urethane reducer. Its actually comparable to the price of Acetone. The best thing to do is check with the manufacturers instructions, there are different "speed" reducers for temperatures or flash times. For cleaning I use Lacquer Thinner.

[@balmighty81]

Wow, great video! Easy to follow and directly to the point. Whats that device on the top of the can? one suggestion is to add links to these products in the description. A+

[@TheLastLayer111]

its a mixing lid. got it on Amazon. They work great. www.amazon.com/Master-Elite-Mixing-Pouring-Gallon/dp/B0CVFSYWL6/ref=asc_df_B0CVFSYWL6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693507921551&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13918075988597383155&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021615&hvtargid=pla-2283116719187&mcid=c77b3b2101073940ba4cf19cd0cf7a35&gad_source=1&th=1

[@balmighty81]

@@TheLastLayer111 are you able to store it with that lid on(long term) as well or not recommended?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Until its empty, I've had that lid on it over a year. It seals remarkably well.

[@traviscrites954]

You called it Reducer in the video, but it shows you pouring hardener. Can you clarify which you are mixing with the primer?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Its hardener. I guess I didnt catch that. Thanks.

[@markm75]

Maybe i missed it but how long of a wait is it between coats of the primer?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Just until it flashes. Look for it to go from shiny to flat. It flashes pretty quick. If you put it on heavy, you may need to wait a little longer.

[@theamzngq]

What do you use to clean the brushes after applying that primer?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Lacquer thinner.

[@theamzngq]

Excellent, thank you very much. I appreciate your suggestions for the two-part filler primer, working on a project for a client and decided to try that. This stuff seems to do a spectacular, and more importantly quick, job at filling layer lines! And I’ve only done the first coat so far…

[@genises200]

Sorry to bother ya! New to this but what brand primer and color spray would you recommend? Your work looks amazing

[@TheLastLayer111]

no bother at all. For a base coat, pretty much any spray paint or modeling paint will work. For the clear coat, I always use AkzoNobel. I talk about it in the "make it SHINE" video. For primer, I really like Roberlo Multyfiller express.

[@fluxcapacitor]

Magnificent! I have a question that's been nagging at me for a while now: How do people like you (thinking especially of Uncle Jessy, The Creative Collector, and many others) manage to sell such props without being sued by Marvel, Disney and the like for trademark or copyright law infringement?

[@TheLastLayer111]

That's a good question, I don't really know? I never sold one. I make them as a hobby, and give quite a few away. Honestly I just enjoy doing it, and don't want to make it my job (I'm afraid Ill loose some of the enjoyment). But I have wondered that also. I'm guessing if Marvel and Disney really wanted to push it, they could, but I feel for the small amount of people doing this, It helps maintain interest in their real "bread and butter", the movies.

[@Nick-xe2hu]

One thing I noticed was you used Etalon in the video but your link is for Roblero. Are they the same in performance?

[@TheLastLayer111]

For the most part, all the HB primers on the market will work the same. I always used Roberlo, when I ran out of that my local guy had Etalon, so I used that. Both work good, and sand easy. Also The roberlo is available on Amazon and I believe its actually a little cheaper than Etalon. For a future video, I plan on testing some of the more affordable options, such as Finish One or Upol. I'm Guessing all of them will perform similarly.

[@Nick-xe2hu]

@TheLastLayer111 perfect. Thanks for the info

[@randallbourque1321]

What is the name of that top for the primer?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Its a one gallon mixing lid. They are about 20 - 30 bucks on Amazon

[@craig4451]

questions: how long to wait to dry after first coat before dry enough to sand. was 2nd coat a new batch or the same mix from the first coat?

[@TheLastLayer111]

It really depends on how thick you put it on. Sometimes I put it on and while its drying ill add more to touch it up, The primer dries much slower in the cup than when its spread on the piece, So I can typically get 2 coats out of it. You dont necessarily need 2 full coats, if you got the layer lines covered, you are good to go.

[@davidcooper574]

Do you remember the designer for the stormtrooper helmet?

[@TheLastLayer111]

the phase 2 was Nikko Industries. I cannot remember the original one though.

[@stevecastillo1492]

what color of red did you use for the moff gileon helmet for the side ?

[@TheLastLayer111]

I airbrushed it silver, then used a transparent maroon model paint. It was kind of trial and error. Ill try to remember and get back to you.

[@stevecastillo1492]

@@TheLastLayer111 thank you and let me know

[@stuartfields9177]

Awww man, I hate it when the 'secret' is still more sanding. I hate sanding haha

[@TheLastLayer111]

I hear ya, we all do. but the primer sands quite easy compared to some of the other methods I tried. Someone needs to invent "3D spray and done" haha.

[@skyrim4713]

Do you have a link for the primer?

[@TheLastLayer111]

I actually buy it from a local autobody paint store, Any good automotive 2K High Build primer should work. Roberlo Multyfiller Express is my favorite. It can be mixed depending on how thick you want it. It can also be reduced. its very versatile. Sorry.. I dont have an affiliate link yet. www.amazon.com/ROBERLO-Multifiller-Express-Primer-Hardener/dp/B06XC8QZ5K/ref=sr_1_49_sspa?crid=3MVCW4MMBTSE2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2dyt0SzveChXLAU86RjvbUzTIiEp8-2HTrwye-FQ1JIREsXdNn4vk0NXbhlEbYcUX-qLGSrStFCTTdHsQJbJ3Dm9JSfu6l8nX3Ws9itlpXw.X_3SMPlu_qbm0tgP0NNUUOku_ifmnUV7baJA4V5T7O4&dib_tag=se&keywords=roberlo+primer&qid=1721581510&sprefix=roberlo+primer%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-49-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGZfbmV4dA&psc=1&smid=A3W2N2FDIPZH5M

[@drgta6]

Where do you buy this?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Not sure what you are referring to buying. But most of the stuff can be found on Amazon. Almost all the products are automotive painting products, and can be substituted with some equivalent products. Drop me an email (in my channel description) and I will do what I can to help you out.

[@drgta6]

@@TheLastLayer111 The ethalon primer...I see some on ebay, but I don't know if I can trust them.

[@TheLastLayer111]

@@drgta6 I never tried it, so I couldn't say for certain. But you can check reviews. Most of the automotive stuff is similar. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

[@siliilith]

how much for you to make me a green ranger helmet from the power rangers?

[@TheLastLayer111]

Honestly, I don't make and sell them. I really try to keep it a hobby and love sharing techniques. But I can try to do a video on how to make one. Not sure if that would help? Its a real fun and rewarding hobby.

[@scottsherrard]

I wouldn’t call this the easy way. Truth is, there is no easy way to remove print lines. Primer is the most effective way tho. As the owner of a body shop, and several 3d printers, I have used many different products. You should try polyester primers. It’s used for very high build. One application of 2-3 coats and you’re done.

[@TheLastLayer111]

I agree, removing print lines always takes elbow grease. I guess I should say its the easiest way I have found. I have gotten a lot of comments from people on different methods, many of which I have tried. Modern primers sand much easier than resins and putty/acetone concoctions my opinion (but that's just my opinion). I wish there was a "spray and done" method, unfortunately if there is I haven't found it. I will absolutely give the Polyester primers a try. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@nonononononononon5478]

dry wall mud or wood filler plus water... is WAY CHEAPER AND EASIER- and a cheap can of spray primer 2 in 1 filler... this is an INSANELY expensive and complicated way to do a very simple process... >>

[@TheLastLayer111]

you are correct, Dry wall mud and wood filler do work, but keep in mind they also shrink over time, thats why body shops use these products. they set quick and have very minimal shrinkage. There is nothing worse than finishing a project and a week later you start seeing layer lines.

[@ljadf]

Don't pick up the sander, don't pick up the sander...

[@paulh.6087]

Explanation?