3D Printed Planetary Gearbox! Resin vs FDM Printing?

Is resin printing useful for gears??? Results from my experiments show that the parts printed from resin are much more brittle and prone to failures from repeated loading. In this experiment, the PLA I was using was Inland "Tough PLA" and the resin was "ABS-Like" clear resin. This gearbox will be used in some future projects of mine so stay tuned for more!
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[@TAiiNE]

One thing to also take note it is it going to depend on the type of resin, or the type of FDM you use. Some are stronger than others. For example clear resin is known to be brittle. What you want is something like resione tough resin, siraya tech blu strong Resin, eSUN ABS-Like hard tough resin (a personal I use), then there's liqcreate tough-x that is designed for mechanical use. Theres also other brands but these I know and one I have used for more technical builds or things that may be taking a beating. Also the cure time can have a BIG impact on resin, I saw you are doing them for 9 minutes? That is a bit much and over curing can cause any resin to become britle or form micro cracks. Even with the resin I use if I forget it in its curing box and over cure even the best resin will have issues. 2-5 minutes is normally the go to, though clear resin will cure faster and should be in half that. The fact your print shows yellowing means it cured WAY to long. The cure time also depends on the strenght of the UV light, stronger lights like in those cure stations don't need to be that long while weaker lights may need a few minutes more. For example my manual curing chamber uses a set up with a 405NM uv light and I only cure my prints for 2 minutes at the most. One minute for any clear resin or it starts to yellow and form cracks. I don't know much about filiment printers as I've yet to get one, but I do know there's some that have metal mixed in that is really strong, and others like silk that are really brittle as well. So it really does depend on what you are using.

[@omoralopez]

Yep, E-SUN ABS Like is the best, a little bit expensive, but it is a product that almost doesn´t require post processing

[@HyperSculptor]

@@omoralopez @TAiiNE how does print cost compares with filament? Initially I wanted to start with filament (ideally recycling failed prints and making filament from water bottles etc), but it seems like resin might fit my applications better (I would lose the possibility for recycling but I guess resin prints successfully more often).

[@omoralopez]

@@HyperSculptor In our case we have 5 Anycubic printers and 3 Artillery. I think that both technologies are not comparable. IE: One of our pieces printed with resin takes 5 hours, with filament the time goes up to 16. The cost per gram of both materials is almost the same (ABS Like Resin vs PLA+ Filament), but, at the end of the sum, time is also money. In addition, the level of detail with the resin is almost as good as if they were injected parts. We use filament printers to print parts that require less detail, are smaller and, generally, flat. We have tried many ABS Like resins, and there is a lot of difference between the different brands. I think that E-Sun is the best, but it is still very expensive, so we use one that is of acceptable quality and not that expensive.

[@HyperSculptor]

@Osvaldo Mora thanks for your reply, it helps making my choice obvious, in term of technology.

[@omoralopez]

@@HyperSculptor You are welcome!

[@xanxanariac9014]

I'm just impressed how clean the PLA prints look........

[@tiptopmuffin]

yes had me fooled ... I had no idea that was PLA. Very clean

[@Torskel]

You need specific resins for industrial use like this, you could mix 2 resins as well to achieve strong but yet tough

[@ericvenneker]

I did not expect that. I would have thought that the resin gearbox would be more durable. Great test. Thanks 👍

[@Michallote]

Resin is more closely related to ceramics. This is maybe not the application for it. Try running those gearboxes under the sun though. FDM won't operate with slightly higher temperatures.

[@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart]

@@Michallote What the hell do ceramics have to do with thermosetting plastics??

[@Luftnarret]

@@WhenDoesTheVideoActuallyStart thermosetting clay?

[@prestonnewcomb5991]

@@Michallote how do you think that would compare with the interior of electronics? I have some Laserdisc player to restore. They need some replacement gears, as well as my Betamax decks.

[@kuba6344]

@@Michallote maybe PLA will have trouble, but with ABS or nylon you`d be good to go

[@gabrielenitti3243]

to make the gears last longer, try swapping the WD40 for some grease meant for plastic and when threading screws directly into plastic, tighten them by hand and before tightening, turn the screw counterclockwise until you feel it dropping into the already existing thread, so you don't run the risk of chasing new threades every time you screw it back together.

[@hasanelahituhin1150]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXTRen2ra56UjJI

[@rollotomasi1832]

Would mobilux ep2 work with plastic?

[@JohnHansknecht]

So many resins on the market and new ones coming out all the time. I feel we will soon be looking at FDM as a dinosaur once the better resins are developed. I'm in a group that uses resin molds for DIY plastic injection molding, so this particular use is already something FDM cannot achieve because of the high temperature plastics being injected.

[@ericosborne4122]

How about ABS?

[@jayliu496]

Finally someone who is using appropiate screws for plastic parts. There are way too many designs out there with machine screws and brass inserts or nuts

[@imacmill]

_Finally someone who is using appropiate screws for plastic parts._ Not everyone is as smart as you.

[@imacmill]

@@owowowdhxbxgakwlcybwxsimcwx If you're fastening together something that you don't intend to ever take apart again (how likely is that?...only you can decide), then self-tapping is OK/appropriate. But I suppose if you don't intend to disassemble, then glue the parts together.

[@Grey-Troll]

Called it! Resin is harder and more brittle. Your results are exactly what I would expect! I've seen resin used for making near perfect molds for poly or rubber seals though... I'm sure it has its uses that go beyond what other prints could hope to do.

[@miguellopez3392]

There are more flexible and durable resins, they just tend to be less detailed.

[@trazos_d]

ok, that was surprisingly unexpected! really nice comparison, I was completely sold on the SLA's strength and this was actually mind-blowing. Thank you very much, here's my like, my sub and why not, my gf as well.

[@willierants5880]

I would also add that if the PLA isn't holding up to move to PETG which in my experience is much more durable and long wearing. PLA tends to be brittle by comparison. As far as printing it isn't much different. Just mind the temps and it's just a smooth if not better.

[@radug9594]

Hey, great stuff. I've actually designed my own compound planetary gearbox a while back for a 5010 outrunner bldc, but kind of gave up haha. I used lithium silicone grease and it worked great!

[@TheDainerss]

This test was like comparing a Microscope and a Telescope for looking at the moon, ofcourse one will be better as the other was never designed for this. The resin used in most home printers is for fine detail printing, hense the reason most model makers prefer resin. If you want something to withstand mechanical stresses, the FDM printer will always be the better choice here.

[@SebastienChedalBornu]

I think people think of tough resin but it's so brittle. My brother just ended doing a mix of though resin with elastic you like resin so his posts are tough but still flex enough to not break easily. Maybe you should try this.

[@SebastienChedalBornu]

@@Rokmononov I don't agree with you. This just a problem as simple as steel swords, you have to harden the edges so it's more deadly. But you need a softer core or it will breaks because it's too brittle when it will hits another sword.

[@YippeePlopFork]

I’m new to your channel, but the last few videos I’ve watched have all been very informative and great quality. Thank you for sharing your work! Subscribed 👍

[@superspooky4580]

sweet finally a win for FDM. Its always about how resin is so great and so much better but its good to see that FDM still has a place is isnt out dated by resin.

[@KosmicK]

FDM uses production thermoplastics, of course there's a place for it. But if you're using hobbyist resins on a DLP then yeah no duh it's going to be weaker.

[@TheRojecas]

Thanks for sharing, great job and very interesting. I will be waiting your future publications

[@VictorLaster]

May I suggest using 3D Materials Super PP Resin. That has been the toughest resin I have ever used. It should withstand much more than even the ABS Like resins.

[@JohnLauerGplus]

Good stuff. One thing you might try as well is printing the parts using one of the HP MJF (multijet fusion) services out there. I did that with my BLDC compound planetary gearbox and it's impressive. You could probably print these parts for about $10 using JLCPCB's new HP MJF service.

[@deangraves908]

I would've liked to see if lubricating the resin would've extended the lifespan. With something like grease preferably. It was interesting to see the PLA last a lot longer. I have no experience in 3d printing so I don't know a ton. Thank you for the good content though!

[@Right1994]

What resin were you using? The resin used apparently makes a much bigger difference than the material used in FDM (which, to be fair, already has quite big differences). I've seen resins range from "brittle like glass" to "pretty much slightly weaker ABS". So it would be really interesting which resins you used for your tests. Also: I didn't see any lubricant on the resin gearbox when you took it apart. To be fair, the lubricants I usually use are pretty much black, so maybe that gel stuff just can't be seen as easily.

[@MichielR]

Great video and production value! Very happy KZbin recommended this to me :) subscribed.

[@moshelteranf.6816]

Thank you for existing!

[@not2dodgy]

You need a flexi build plate on that resin printer. Makes popping off big chunky prints so easy.

[@RendeRboy3d]

You have to use not only a strong resin, but also an anti friction one. Most resins, even the tough ones like siraya tenatious , are not meant for moving parts. Try syraya mecha resin or resione m58

[@baxrok2.]

Good old PLA for the win. Thanks!

[@IchBinBartlos]

i know its a year old or so, the problem with resin prints is, that it becomes brittle if cured for too long, depending on the part you are printing you need to adjust the cure time, its like... i think tempering is the right word in english... for the gears i would shorten the cure time significantly so only the outer layers of is hard while the core remains flexible... its kinda like surface hardened steel, and its something you need to get experience with, because not only is the intensity of your uv source important, even standard resins may vary immensely in their "Stats", we are using 3d printed gears all the time for testbuilds at work, if your resin brand is good you can also look up the "stats" when completely cured

[@oldgregg2057]

Great video and interesting results. I thought for sure the resin printer would be the winner here.

[@B3D]

Wow looking foward to see difference stronger resin u test

[@amtechprinters3339]

Yea.. common resin parts are kinda sanding eatch other, tough resins arent bridle but maybe still wearing alot.. Test another greases, like thick vaseline Test siraya tough/build, ABS-like or nylon-line resins and be amazed 😌👌

[@White000Crow]

Isn’t Vaseline pure petroleum? I like to use silicone oils or silicone grease.

[@mrnukeduster]

Very cool test setup! Thank you for the video! Also, in some defense of resins...Which resins were used? Settings? So many variables can affect resin performance. Were they cured underwater? Heating the curing oven that you cure the finished parts in can significantly increase their tensile strength for many resins. It is a complicated sport. Happy printing! :)

[@IVAN_ENT]

What resins were you using out of curiosity? Really hoping the tough resins get a little stronger for practical use parts I'm playing with some sirayatech build atm might try this print been thinking if ordering some steppers to play with

[@tylerestes9331]

I strictly use build for all of my functional prints now. Haven't done much testing with it, but housings don't shatter when dropped anymore. I've heard people using blu and build mix (20/80 ratio or similar) have good results as well.

[@KoalaLumpUhr]

Nice comparison with an outcome that I somehow expected, but would have thought that it would break much earlier. - Were the resin parts cured after printing? - Chemical influence of the lubricant?

[@bcs7686]

definitely worth a sub

[@iikkakonola]

If you plan to continue your hobby, read the section # 8 from your resin manufacturer's safety sheet. You will get some health problems eventually when touching uncured resin parts and/or breathing resin fumes when using resin printed in unventilated area.

[@ChadLuciano]

I've got a lot to learn still...thanks for this video.

[@sideburn]

I’m amazed you were able to print cylindrical hard edged parts at a decent quality on your resin printer. It has been a nightmare for me. The only way I can get anything mechanical shaped printing half way decent is at a 45 degree angle and a boat load of supports. If I print flat on the build plate the print has rings and artifacts all over the place. So far the only thing useful I can do with my elegoo resin 3d printer is oraganic shapes of a bust or a dnd character 😆

[@topordrop2402]

Very nice design. I've been working on a tiny planetary gearbox for a NEMA8 motor printed in Siraya Tech Build. The stall torque of the motor is much lower than the failure stress of the resin, and I'm able to print much smaller module gears accurately with resin than FDM. I'd be very interested to see your design skills applied to an even smaller gearbox.

[@bertkooijmans4769]

Hi what module can you print? Im curious im working on a solar rotatiting display stand. Like those in curing stations

[@topordrop2402]

@@bertkooijmans4769 smallest I've tried was 0.5mm, but my gearbox is using 0.7mm.

[@bertkooijmans4769]

@@topordrop2402 thanks thats a lot better then my fdm printer its barely managing 1mm module haha ill have a go at .5 that makes a small gearbox a lot easier haha

[@topordrop2402]

@@bertkooijmans4769 yea for my FDM gears Ive had good success with a 0.3mm nozzle and 1 or 1.2mm module.

[@bertkooijmans4769]

@@topordrop2402 oh i got a .35 nozzle on a vertex nano from velleman. I appreciate your answer very much btw kinda weird only videos i see are pretty big gears this is the first vid i saw with some proper smaller gears.

[@kvernesdotten]

I mean, if you gave FDM the same benefit of reprinting in a better material like the MSLA printer, you could go a durable PETG on the shell and do the gears in nylon or acetal which are super durable and self lubricating and probably be pretty darn close to a commercial product

[@tonypetroski216]

you should try Monocure 3D TUFF™ resin & as a bonus, it doesn't have the smell.

[@turdferguson4124]

PLA is pretty strong stuff. It tends to snap rather than elongating prior to fracture, but I have to think its ultimate strength and wear resistance are higher than resin. Resin has superior dimensional accuracy and surface finish, but for parts with more demanding structural loading, I think FDM/PLA would be the better choice.

[@ClokworkGremlin]

Iirc, 3d Printing Kitchen did a series of tests and determined PLA is one of the strongest "basic" options.

[@armorhide406]

PLA is well known to be brittle but damn. Guess I have nothing to worry about in low load gears in my stuff

[@maurishmelian932]

Very good and useful video!!

[@hithere2561]

Comparing the strength of the PLA and modeling resin is like comparing the acceleration of Lamborghini and Opel Astra, using the logic that as they both are cars, therefore the acceleration should be equal.

[@ChristophLehner]

Really well done video.

[@Gilmore304]

Yeah, I’m brilliantly put together but, tolerances really have to be close, hence lube to reduce heat = POWER

[@ketse89]

Superb video! Thou would love to see the gearbox done with high end engineering resin with post uv curing.

[@amiruddinaziz8413]

It's great stuff. Really interesting, it would be a research to do more.

[@eliaseubert6760]

hammer and chisel to get the print of the plate ?!? how long is your bottom exposure ?

[@MK-lk7nc]

Great video, thanks. I like to think of resin as able to do what FDM can in optimal situations but clearly that simply is not the case, I don't know what else you could have done to help resin out there and it still lost by a lot.

[@bullishvibe]

Man... SO COOL!

[@ronniepaulinc]

nylon is the perfect material for a gearbox... I had a 1300 GSX capable of over 200mph and the upgraded gears were made of nylon and were dedad silent

[@Microplastic_Therapy]

I was expecting the resin model to win the test

[@jimpifarre4601]

the thing I found with resin printing is that you can mix certain resins together to create different density resins..something you can't do with FDM

[@joeschembrie9450]

Your test shows that FDM is stronger than resin, but I would have liked to have seen a test to see the limit that resin could do without breaking down, as that would identify applications where resin would still be acceptable. Resin is a more complicated process, but for mass production you can print a whole plate of gears in the time it takes to print one gear in FDM.

[@alienmorf]

Resin is realy good for high detailed sculptures only

[@Victor-vj5ds]

Their are some very tough resins on the market now but require a lot of tunning and prep.

[@BharathwajK]

Thanks for your practical experienced explanation, but which FDM printer is faster

[@ArtursBondars]

Thanks for the video!

[@aaronraufman8092]

This is great for testing various print materials but I'm wondering if, despite the cost and production requirements, these mechanical jobs (especially where any level of torque is required) should be left to metal parts? Is see a lot of people experimenting with plastic gears but feel like it's slightly in vain considering a metal gear will be stronger and more durable by orders of magnitude. Things that use plastic gears are often considered "disposable" after all...

[@nsboost]

Super cool. I’d like to see the modeling process for resizing a exiting model. Seems when I have something that didn’t pan out, I have to mode from square one. Can’t seem to navigate fusion well enough to modify a existing design 🤦‍♂️. Makes prototyping very tedious

[@ultraderek]

Interesting results!

[@i-make-robots]

Interesting... I have resin printed harmonic gearboxes that vastly outlived the PLA equivalents. Why is the resin model so brittle?

[@Stormshadows1]

Nice video. The gray filament model looks really smooth, what configuration did you used? it's because the 3D printer resolution, or the material?

[@goochygoochoutdoors.1913]

Did you just use standard resin.?

[@milindf]

What nozzle size did you use for FDM printer?

[@tubestyle]

try siraya blue, its a extra hard resin. or mir some rubbery resin in the hard resin. nice test!

[@I-I-I-I]

Well I use my elegoo to print some sort of waxy mold for a really hard epoxy that isn't printed in any way but is cast and then the elegoo indirectly wins^^

[@barrybernau467]

Awesome channel!

[@mgut17]

Fdm for pratical use and resin is basically for detail, tell me if i am wrong here

[@Damjanhd]

I like to know do you make parts a bit smaller to all fit together perfect or you have printer calibrated that good so it prints the size you design for part?

[@Daniel-ri2ys]

How do you prevent getting an elephant food on the resin printer when printing right on the build plate?

[@krakenunbound]

The kind of resin you use and how long you hit it with the curing station will determine its strength. FDM printer filament is typically less brittle. What type of filament did you use? What kind of resin? I have both types btw. I don't care which is better. I use whatever will give me the result I need.

[@vejl]

Cool gear. Would be nice if you add the bill of material to the thingiverse page also.

[@Da-Real-Gigachad]

What size nozzle did you use?

[@Bishka100]

The real reason why the resin gear box failed has nothing to do with the brittleness of the resin... It is because you did not add any flashing LEDs, they always make things work better 🙂

[@KyU433]

RGB improves it even more

[@Bishka100]

@@KyU433 Too true, I add RGBs to my breakfast cereal.

[@imcrow6674]

resin could likely be used for engineering stuff though youd need some resin that is specifically made for it, typically resin is only used for modeling for some parts i got some meant to be super strong after curing, and its a little stronger than standard plastic though brittle (not insanely strong, but strong for resin standards)

[@jakegarrett8109]

I still haven't heard of one that's up to standard ABS standards. Even though PLA is like 4x stronger static loading, resin still can't compete with either, yet... Once it does become available designers will be using that exotic material almost no matter the cost. For example weapons manufacturing hobbyists have tried "ABS like" resins, and its not even close, fails so fast its just a joke. However they have some really artistic designs and complex parts that are a real pain to clean up in FDM (you know its not hand made until its got some red fluids on it... it truly is a real pain sometimes). And those designers could really use the precision of resin, it just doesn't exist yet (and FDM they spend a bunch on carbon fiber infused composite materials, or some have very expensive metal printers when thermoplastics are not enough but that's typically commercial or military contractors that have those). I also really hope metal printing becomes cheaper. I can afford a machine right now (used its only like $135k), but it weighs about 6,000 pounds (3,000 KG), and I don't know how long I want to live in this corrupt state so I'd like to move without having to move a massive industrial machine. Then those gears would be trivial. I make a lot of gearboxes and mechanical things, last gearbox was a multi-stage herringbone planetary gearbox that even plastic survived 10k rpm peak speed just fine and lower speeds without bearings for quite a while and only finally found its limits when it melted after running it slightly too hard for hours and the motor just got the gearbox drive gear up to temp when it got hot due to overloading the motor, so metal would be nice so nothing melts.

[@imcrow6674]

@@jakegarrett8109 i skimmed through most of that (ie i read like the first line) but there are some companies making certain kinda of resin for engineering purposes, dunno how well it works since its VERY expensive, but i imagine we will have some better stuff in the near future with how quickly 3d printing tech is advancing

[@miguellopez3392]

​@jakegarrett8109 there are tougher resins and there is a chance this guy over cured the resin or didn't do it at the optimal temperature, resin is very sensitive to print right, using engineered resins like syrayatech nylon black would yield more impressive results but with a even heftier price tag. They also make resins that can resit higher temperatures than PLA.

[@imcrow6674]

@@miguellopez3392 AC set to ~75 degrees, curing for around 3-4 minutes. wouldnt say im doing anything wrong, the resin being brittle is just a inherent flaw in the material itself. afaik you wont find any kind of resin that isnt brittle to some extent though i never actually had an issue with my prints, walkman parts dont tend to be used in high-stress applications

[@robinmorritt7493]

Sheer genius. 👍

[@cmmp5510]

Why do you use sprya glue, just put a higher temperature in the printing bed.

[@alexrobles7744]

Great video.. how you keep the resin case but use the FDM gears. because the see through case is awesome.

[@torymiddlebrooks]

I appreciate the test but I'm very interested in your resin wash, can you link to it?

[@MACISUS]

Not sure why you compared PLA and not PETG as it’s much stronger for this application. Just a thought.

[@haka8702]

Use Taulman 910 for that sort of printing

[@matthewhancock2127]

I want to print vary small beveled gears, where each gear tooth is as small as 0.04 mm, inside a housing, and want to use resin because of small details, and since you did this test two years ago as of the time of this comment it would be nice if you would update this video.

[@fahb68]

Great video, i have both print systems and not too much information on the net about the enginering side on resin prints, mostly anime figures.... i wait your next video thanks

[@ArtplusHrApps]

You should have tried ABS Like resin!

[@SirRobinII]

output ring gear teeth are different than the static ring gear teeth, does this work like some kind of harmonic drive?

[@MrRapinPaiwan]

How about abs resin same result ?

[@MrRapinPaiwan]

Waiting...for answers

[@multimargejta123]

Did you use tough resin?

[@maxdefire]

What PLA it was? PLA or PLA+? Printing speed? Why even PLA and not PETG?

[@ameliabuns4058]

what's the gear ratio? this might rock for jubilee. also PLEASE PLEASE do a test on the tolerances/print accuracy of resin printers and their warping with resin like siriya tech build? i wanna buy one of these but i'm not sure how good they are accuracy wise what resin did you use for the tests btw?

[@Fatpumpumlovah2]

RESIN NEEDS TO FULLY CURE FOR A FEW DAYS. JEEEZUSS!!

[@faizizmail4049]

may I ask the strongest material to make gear for rpm above 20000 so that it doesn't wear out?

[@pyalot]

Though resin should be able to compete with PLA. Though I suspect that even if they perform similarly in tensile and impact tests, all resins might be much more fatigue suseptible than thermoplastics.

[@jothain]

I don't know what it is, but resin is absolutely inferior to PLA in my tests. I couldn't print anything reliably. They look absolutely gorgeous, but mechanically absolute shiiit.

[@pyalot]

@@jothain There are special “tough” resins that are better mechanicaly than standard resins, and there is a curing sweet spot that maximizes toughness. Particularly beyond that sweet spot curing time, resins become harder, but less tough (i.e. brittle). Toughness of thermoplastics tends to be pretty good because they are relatively soft, but hard enough at room temperature to not be plastically deformed easily. Thermoplastic toughness is also influenced by printing temperature (sweet spot between layer adhesion, detail and heat degradation), water content (for some types more than others) and postprocessing (anealing, doping, sealing).

[@cyrus_duh_virus]

What did you spray on dat before print bc i have a ender 3 and its hard to take stuff off.

[@erikm9768]

Is it Creality LD-002H? Couldnt quite hear

[@laszloszell8753]

On MDF printer what layer height did you use?

[@claytonkramer829]

I printed and built your gearbox. Great work. Nice simple 80:1 design. Testing I noticed an occasional popping sound as the planetary gears rotate. I can feel a slight bump on the planet carrier when the sound is made. Have you encountered this or any thoughts on what I should look for?

[@michaelrechtin]

Great to hear you printed it! I don’t think I’ve encountered any popping noises. Maybe check the gear teeth to make sure there is no print artifact in any of them?

[@claytonkramer829]

​ @Michael Rechtin That helped. One of the planetary gears had a rough tooth. Took a while to find that tooth. Sanded it a little with a Dremel, applied more Super Lube 21010 synthetic grease, and then ran the gearbox for 100 full clockwise and counter-clockwise runs. The crunchy sounds stopped and the gearbox runs smooth now. I'm curious if Resin printed gears have better teeth prints on average.

[@pratikgurudatt8867]

Hey, nice project, I just printed out all the parts and have been assembling them together. I had this issue, I wanted to know if the planet gears go all the way down between the sun gear and the gear track around the sides? Right now, the planet gears sit right at the very top of the gears around the sides of the housing and don't go all the way down. Is that how it's supposed to fit?

[@stephanfrenzel5782]

Need help, i dont get it. If the housing mountet on the Motor is static, the sun gear drives the planetary gears. How can the outputshaft rotate, when it has the same diameter as the gear in the housing? Normaly the only possible output would be the planetary gerset... What do i miss here???

[@olawlor]

The output ring gear has 3 fewer teeth than the input ring gear, so when the planets rotate around once, they shift the input-output offset by 3 teeth, similar to how a strain wave gear works.

[@stephanfrenzel5782]

@@olawlor Thanks for the answer, i thought i am stupid as 10cm of thread. So the outputs smaler diameter is unnotable in the video.

[@olawlor]

@@stephanfrenzel5782 I'm not sure what they're using here, but it's also possible to use the same output diameter if you shift the output ring's gear pitch slightly. Because the planets only engage a few teeth the pitches don't need to match exactly. (Especially in a FDM 3D print, where +-0.1mm is plenty!)

[@wire54321]

What is in the purple can?

[@Ryxxi_makes]

what is the shore hardness of your resins used here and also their tensile strength and tensile modulus ?