3D Printed Threads - Model Them in Fusion 360 | Practical Prints #2

[@irql2]

Who is downvoting these videos? Some bot maybe? Thanks for making these. I enjoy watching them and learning new things.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Mike! As always, I truly appreciate your support and kind words :)

[@xeraoh]

I saw another video (+10K view omg) where the uploader don't mention anything about the tolerance... maybe that guy :-) This video is perfect!

[@Ken-zg3ze]

I instantly upvote when I hear this guys voice on a F360 tutorial.

[@Linkman-fm2in]

@@Ken-zg3ze Yeah!

[@autorepairbymike1356]

They should hit the dislike button twice. That'll work out better for them.

[@twistjapan]

I rarely comment but I recently bought a tap and die set because the threads/nuts I 3d printed were shearing off due to the force it took to turn the nut ... you my man are AMAZING, please continue with these videos

[@avramgrossman827]

Kevin. I find your teaching style to be VERY EXCELLENT. As a new Fusion360 student and new to 3D designs, your explanations are very helpful. You are slow, articulate and demonstrate where to find the button clicks and methods clearly. I find just learning the steps and sequences difficult. I have problems learning how to undo mistakes...I think I get the timeline method to go back. I often have to hunt around to find what is needed next, but to be honest, watching your tutorials repeatedly helps to reinforce my own understanding of what, why and how. Thanks for producing a great series of shows.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

TIMESTAMPS 0:48 | Creating a new component 1:03 | Creating a cylinder 1:45 | Activating the thread command 2:36 | Making the thread modeled 3:00 | Adjusting the thread length 3:33 | Selecting the thread type 4:27 | Setting the Designation 5:36 | Defining the class (tolerances) 6:05 | Selecting the direction 6:20 | Remembering most recent threads 6:44 | Creating a nut 7:33 | Adding the internal threads 8:27 | The default clearance 8:47 | Copying and pasting the component 10:00 | Offset faces to create clearance 11:37 | Debossing text to label the clearance 12:05 | Creating the third copy 13:54 | Adding fillets to the thread edges 16:15 | 3D Printed test results

[@odw32]

Maybe this helps someone: At 14:27 I couldn't get this offset operation to work, until I changed Offset Type from "Automatic" to "New Offset".

[@jhtar]

Thank you, I had this exact same problem.

[@MR_Charles04]

Thank you so much, I spent an hour trying to figure out why it was not working

[@jason-things_to_do]

This channel has the best content in the universe to learn Fusion 360

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Jason. Happy learning 😁

[@Jacob-ol3zb]

I'd consider myself to already be quite familiar with fusion. I still found your video tremendously helpful. I pulled this video up just to see if there even was a dedicated thread tool and I was pleasantly surprised to be greeted with a clear and descriptive tutorial. The advice you gave and the explanation for altering the tolerances will definitely save me some time. I also appreciate that you don't skip over anything. I've never seen the option you used to view a cross section and I'm glad I'm aware of it now. If I'm looking for more fusion tutorials, I will definitely come here. Thank you for such high quality content.

[@bruceogletree7995]

I'm not sure why, but I found that using the "Q" shortcut option (14.25) would not successfully perform the Offset Face command. When I selected Offset Face from the Modify dropdown in the Solid menu, it worked fine.

[@doc_d4566]

I just spent the last 2 hours following step by step through this video 100 times.. I was about to throw my monitor through the window. WTF? Can anyone explain this? When I selected that face and pressed Q, the distance is pre-populated with 16.00mm. And while you can change it by entering something different or by dragging the handle, it doesn't change the face. But as Bruce kindly noted if you choose "Offset Face" from the modify drop-down, the distance is populated with 0.00mm and you can then change it. I also noticed the dialog for the "Q" version of "OFFSET FACE" has an "Offset Type" input field, while the dialog for the modify menu drop-down version of "OFFSET FACE" does not. This is the kind of stuff that is maddening about Fusion 360. So much is contextual but it's documented NO WHERE. Lastly if you use the "Q" version, if you set the "Offset Type" to "New Offset" it does seem to work.

[@dnesfeder]

@@doc_d4566 Same thing. Almost down one MacBook. As you mention, going from the main menu or changing to "New Offset" makes it work. Glad I read the comments. Thanks!

[@mavestube]

@@doc_d4566 thanks!

[@durp_with_muk]

OH MY GOD! One year later and you are still saving people. I was stuck on this for two hours... You legend!!! Thank you so much.

[@brucefox6580]

Great tutorial. thank you.

[@Jyzen]

Thanks! I was so stuck, but it worked!

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Sorry I missed this earlier. I appreciate your support!

[@Jyzen]

@@ProductDesignOnline Fair, I missed your reply until today! Thank you for teaching!

[@davidfernandez2721]

Okay, There are few things more frustrating that trying to learn all the co-dependencies and intricacies of Fusion 360. Forget to check a box or choose an option and it is off to bang your head against the wall as hard as you can just so the pain stops when you quit banging your head against a wall. Your video is better than on-spot. I have viewed a nauseating amount of videos to create a working nut and bolt. By far, this video is more comprehensive than all I have viewed. Thank you for taking the time to explain the various tools to create threaded nut and threaded bolt . Then you go further to explain how to modify the threads surfaces to make a perfect fit. Fantastic video. Keep them coming.

[@jmr]

This tutorial worked great but I can't believe I printed completely functional M2.6X0.45 threads on an Ender 3 V2 with 0.4 nozzle. Even the entry level machines are becoming so amazing!! Thanks to your tutorial I even got it on the first try!

[@kingofbingus468]

This guy has balls for asking people to dislike, other people need to learn from this.

[@DiiaaamoondsLair]

I never really sat down and watched any videos on fusion 360 and rather fiddled on my own, but I learned a lot from this video. Thanks a bunch, I'm making a large thread for mounting a chuck on.

[@brianwelch9299]

I've watched a few of your tutorials now and have picked up a number of things. You do a great job of illustrating a projects steps and capture a lot of the interface subtleties that I've struggled with as a novice. I have a suggested improvement to add to the printed thread. You video go me to the goal of figuring out the filets/offsets for my machine but even with the perfect fit initially getting the threads mated is problematic. I solved for this by adding a taper to the end of the threaded bolt end to trim away that initial thread. I do this by extruding a cylinder matching the bolt diameter and length and coinciding with the finished bolt. After I have that cylinder in place, I chamfer the end, on a m16 x 2.0 bolt, the chamfer is 1.5 horizontal and 2.0mm vertical. Next I do a Combine and select the intersect option. That effectively trims away that real sharp initial thread and now fitting it to a nut is easy. Without this fix I think many will continue to offset the threads to get easy insertion but maybe end up with a little wiggle in the fit. Again, thank you so much for your very well produce videos... you clearly have a gift for instructing. I'll be watching and learning.

[@charlesbrewer6552]

Thanks for this video, it is very timely for me. I have a project where I am printing working 3D threads and was looking to start experimenting with thread tollerances. Your video is perfect for me. Up until now I have been printing my prototype theads with a thicker wall and running metal tap and dies down them to size them correctly, This of course takes time although it does work well. It will be much more efficient to print them at the correct size from the start.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Glad to hear that, Charles! I do find that using Tap and Die sets work well in certain scenarios. For example, when one of the parts is not 3D printed I find it to be really helpful. But when both parts are 3D printed I've found this method does same quite a bit of time. Cheers, Kevin :)

[@ashleydavies282]

I've referred to a few of your videos now. They're really well made and crucially, your pace is spot on for me personally. I've been using Fusion for a while now and other CAD packages for a while longer but I always learn something new, even if it's just a keyboard shortcut (I love a keyboard shortcut).

[@spudnickuk]

This is a great video, wish i seen it a long time ago. Tip. If wanting to print fine threads then setup your printer to either a 0.2 or 0.1 Nozzle and Use PLA+ works well down to M6

[@kingofcastlechaos]

Thanks. Regarding samples- I always put a full length axial hole in samples and then keep them on a sample ring made of ball chain. The sample's movement can be checked without removing them from the ring this way.

[@outsidebrendan]

Excellent video! I needed a refresher and this was extremely thorough.

[@martylinda5639]

My latest challenge was to make a garden hose thread for a special nozzle to be printed on Ender 3 v2. Fusion does not offer this thread, but Machinery's Handbook had the specs. Basically, the thread profile is the same as UNC. There is a UNC 1.06 - 12 thread (1 1/16) which I used. However, what I really needed was a 1.06 -11.5 . I then scaled the z axis only to 12/11.5 which stretches the thread to the proper TPI of 11.5. It worked well except the thread did not fit all hoses because of tolerance so I created clearance by scaling x&y by 1.03. In fact , this does alter the thread profile slightly but not enough to notice. Thanks for the videos

[@tcratius1748]

You are the best, I was just thinking, "I hope Kevin Kennedy does a printable thread in Fusion", and "Bam!", yes you do. :)

[@johnhawkes7681]

Nice video. I found another way to create the required clearance is to use the scale command on the bolt (after the thread is added) in the 2 dimensions of the thread in your case X and Y by whatever value works, say 0.99 - don't scale in Z as that will effect the pitch. This has the advantage of maintaining the original thread profile - if the diameter is not ridiculously small - and doesn't require subsequent filleting but more importantly increases the flank to flank distance as well as reducing the two diameters. It is the flanks that rub against each other if clearance is not taken care of one way or another.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Great tips! Thanks for sharing, John :)

[@Otaku437]

Thanks for the idea to fillet the threads to make them more robust. I also chamfer the bolt and nut openings a bit before applying the threads. It makes it easier to align the parts and begin the connection.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Great tip, Robert!

[@airwavested]

Another great video Kevin. I found that it works out a little better if you split the tolerance addition between the nut and the bolt threads equally. I also found it useful to add a chamfer to both nut and bolt before adding the thread as it eases printing and threading them together when finished.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Amazing...great tips, Ted! Glad you shared these :)

[@terrychamulak3557]

@@ProductDesignOnline Really appreciate the extra effort to develop top-notch tutorials - thank you however had trouble successfully repeating the 0.15 m fillet added to the inside of the nut thread. Would get an error and a red highlighted line-segment as the thread intersected the nut face (either top/bottom). Considered maybe someone posted a comment on KZbin and then read's Ted recommendation. As it turns out adding a chamfer prior to threading the nut solved the fillet error issue I was having. Thanks folks!

[@wbplomp]

Kevin, again an excellent video. I just started with 3D printing and Fusion 360, and your videos helped me enormously getting familiar with Fusion 360. Thank you very much!

[@ceajay7613]

AWESOME - Just starting 3D printing and slowly learning Fusion 360 - You did a great job of teaching me how to create the threads for my small project - Good Job!

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ArenINMotion]

Great explanation. I.m learning Fusion 360 and this is the only video I found that gives me a solution for making threads on my Ender 3. Finally I have a bolt and nut that works. Thank you 👍

[@13osco]

I often struggle with threads, and now that i come to see your offset solution.. it seems so obvious.. Thanks, much appreciated.

[@TBevins]

I'm a mill guy and I recently started playing w printers, GREAT vid! Thanks!!

[@claudiralle]

Thanks to Kevin and a practical report to this tutorial: On my Prusa MK3S printed threads fits together perfectly if you reduce and round ONLY the external thread by 0.1 mm. If you reduce the external AND the internal thread, the connection becomes too loose.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Sweet - Thanks for sharing your results, Ralle! There are lots with the Prusa printer...so I'm sure this will be useful to others :)

[@alexeyisme]

I'm new to 3d modeling. This video helped me to bring idea to life. Thanks a lot.

[@Synced_OW]

When I am attempting to offset the face of the thread like you are at 14:25 I hit the correct place, hit Q, and instead of getting a starting distance of 0.00 mm I get the thread distance of 16 mm and it won't let me change the offset face at all. What could be the reason why?

[@keithsimpson8612]

Found these videos by accident and they are so informative. I am working through them one by and learning so much. I always thought Fusion 360 was hard but now it seems easy to create models. Thanks

[@davidviau2522]

Keep coming back to this video, amazing tutorial and well constructed! Well done mate

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks for your support!

[@JustCuzRobotics]

I've had a lot of experience recently with printing threaded holes in plastic parts for use with standard metal fasteners in my combat robots. Personally I find it easy enough to secure a long enough machine screw in a printed hole with modeled threads even down to 8-32 (roughly M4 diam) threads printed on a Prusa Mk3S in Nylon. I was able to get this to work with the threads oriented both vertically and horizontally and even at arbitrary angles so long as the screw doesn't need to be removed and screwed in over and over, with no manually added clearance at all (though selecting a looser tolerance class helps). I also tried this with 6-32 screws but under load the screws pulled out too easily. I'm going to look into self-tapping screws in 3D printed non-threaded pilot holes next and see how they compare. I also tried threaded inserts but found that my parts would literally split in half along layer lines before the point where the threads stripped out and this remained true when threading directly into the plastic with 8-32 screws. I've also had this work with PETG and PLA though both of those have pitiful impact strength compared to Nylon which is my primary concern. Also when printing smaller threads you definitely wanna set your vertical resolution no greater than 0.2mm, and I often use 0.15mm.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Great stuff, Team Just 'Cuz Robotics! Thanks for sharing all of this. I've printed lots of things in Nylon, but haven't done much in the realm of screws. I'll have to give that a go. I've also experimented with threaded inserts. They work well but can be a pain to get them to work on many accounts within the same object. I may make a video on that topic for the series. Thanks again!! Cheers, Kevin :)

[@serenelychaotic]

Thank you. Your videos have been invaluable to this disabled inventor.🛠️♥️

[@FelixWimmer-ph2bc]

Thanks for the great tutorial. I got stuck when I want to offset the face of the thread wtih the fillet. I cant offset it by -.1mm, I get a warning that the cylinder has a problem with that... Do you have an idea what Im doing wrong?

[@pavtha]

I had the same problem..when doing the offset, change the "offset type" from "automatic" to "new offset" and then type the distance of -0.1mm. Worked for me

[@AMTheTinkerer]

Hi Kevin - I followed this tutorial and was able to create a threaded shaft and nut with M30 x 3.5 mm threads and printed them out. They worked very well on the first try! The reason I chose this thread size is an assembly I have has a 30mm shaft. When I tried to cut the threads into this assembly, the threads on the nut would not mesh with those on the shaft when viewed in the section analysis! I printed my component fully knowing that the threads won't mesh. And sure enough, they didn't. I'm flummoxed as to why I'm having this issue! The only two differences between my scene and this tutorial are one, the shaft in my assembly has been created by extruding a center-circle whilst in the video, a cylinder is used to create the shaft. And second, the nut in my assembly is a body within the same component whilst in the video it's a separate component. To confirm, I created a new component within my assembly and repeated the process outlined in this video and the threads in the shaft and nut meshed! Can you please let me know why this might be happening? thanks for such an excellent video! Agreeing with another viewers comment, I don't understand why someone would down thumb such excellent tutorials.

[@danbeare5263]

Did you ever figure this out? I'm having a similar issue where the thread on the nut doesn't align with the thread of the bolt. Is my only option really to rotate one of the components? :(

[@AMTheTinkerer]

@@danbeare5263 I have to look at the design to see how I solved it.. will let you know

[@AMTheTinkerer]

I revisited the steps in the construction of the threaded subassembly and it's been a while. Therefore, to the best of my recollection and the steps followed, I have the same thread on a shaft that is divided by a collar. One side of the shaft is longer than the other. In my first effort, I modified the shaft to have the collar . And then I added the threads separately on each of the shafts separately. This obviously failed! In the second approach, I removed the collar, added the thread on the entire shaft first. I added the threads on the nut last. This approach fixed the problem.

[@ahmetonur]

First of all, thank you very muchfor this useful and instructive content. Even though I couldn't get the exact result I wanted in my first print, I got the result I wanted by changing the offset settings. Then I made a sketch for the M8 and printed it and the result is still excellent. I had downloaded Fusion 360 before, but I had never used it. Thanks to this content, I both made an introduction to the use of Fusion 360 and learned to draw the part I wanted. Thanks again.

[@erikahammer4337]

I really appreciate your videos. You're video on a beginner project, just n making a stamp, equipped me with the knowledge I needed to make a rough design of a roller skate wheel, and this threading video is going to help me finish designing the mold template.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Glad to hear that, Erika! Would love to see some of your projects if you're open to sharing them in the free PDO Community space - community.productdesignonline.com/

[@stephenmarch3736]

Great video, I learned a lot after 3d printing threads wrong for a few years, apparently ;) I was curious if you could comment on how changing the nozzle size down (ie: to say 0.2mm) and how a person might go about modelling garden hose threads. I often need to swap between GHT, GBP and pipe thread. Thanks.

[@slowride4511]

Thank you for leaving these posted. They are easy to follow. Thank you!

[@Somun-a]

10:40 Adding the clearance to the nut would be a better choice as the male thread is weakened and gets sharp corners as you can see.

[@omar10wahab]

Did you watch the whole video? He literally goes over that and mentions his he was going to go over that at the beginning of the video

[@KCreations4You]

everything worked up till 8:13 My threads are overlapping like the screw was slightly turned without the bolt being turned.

[@MrDeluche]

My hands were bleeding today from a screw I designed in fusion. Thanks for the video, this makes my life a lot easier

[@JoseArevalo-Fester]

Thanks Kevin... this is the best tutorial. You are a good teacher.

[@andrewbrown8148]

This is a great video for the project I'm working on~! I'm trying to make a 4" threaded flange as a dust collection port for the cabinet of my disc/belt sander combo. I've searched for a 3D printed example, but found nothing, so I'm giving it a go. This video should work great in supporting my attempt at a threaded adapter. Very clear & concise instruction for a pretty intricate operation. Not sure that I'd ever by able to do this in SketchUp. Thanks much~!!

[@davidedwards4125]

Just found this and its perfect, no nonsense and exactly what I need. Thanks.

[@RichieVos]

The Modeled ✅ was my problem. Thanks for the quick to follow guide!

[@dfontanesi]

I wish you would have made this one earlier :). I created a lamp in two pieces that screw together and I had to do all of this thru trial and error. Your video would have made that a lot easier. Thanks for these great videos.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Dan!

[@ronsone8373]

Printed an working m6 nut and bolt using this tutorial thanks! I am still amazed what you can do with a 3d printer

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Nice work! :)

[@alana314]

Super helpful video, thank you. I used this to successfully make a plastic female 1/4-20 camera mount for a metal tripod mount. The plastic needed thick walls to hold it in place. I think it may help to try screwing the metal bolt in right after printing while the plastic is still warm and pliable.

[@Platttraining]

Outstanding video and I will get a lot of use of this, especially for the 3D printed thread on a writing pen design I am working on. I really appreciate your quality, concise instruction and the application in using a 3D printer.

[@patrickrichard2106]

Very well presented; it helped me fix a nagging problem. Thanks a bunch!

[@trumpatier]

Wow, I learned so much about Fusion from this video! Including what I was looking for! Very well-made video, thanks a bunch. Earned my sub!

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks for watching :)

[@DieFormel1desOstens]

Hi Kevin, this viedeo is a pleasure full of realistic solutions. I've been searching some forums for a solution. No user could accomplish this. With this I will now "peddle" :-). Thank you very much.

[@divencia]

As always EXCELLENT, the best tutorials with the best quality

[@MultiLoganM]

This video was a ton of help. I was previously just trying to scale the female component up in size.

[@rapiddescent]

Thanks as always Kevin! Would love to see your take on cam style clamps, they have a multitude of uses from securing lids to making clips for bags.

[@Amish_Mafia]

Doing the threads on the last bolt option, I make the offset of -.1mm, hit ok, re select the edge and fillet of .15. It throws an error saying the face isn't large enough, why does it work in this tutorial but I cannot get mine to work? I'm sure I have followed it exactly.

[@MG3D_23]

Same

[@daveoutlaw9890]

❤ this is one of your most useful tutorials .. I have used the screw and internal threads several times to avoid Gluing parts together . Not sure how to share a picture of my project but it may help others see how to use this in theirs Kind regards Dave Outlaw

[@Archnemesis88]

Wow, learned so much from this video! I used to think I was pretty good with Fusion360, look forward to seeing more of your videos!

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Michael! Glad to hear you're learning a lot. Cheers! :)

[@gabrielfuchs9323]

I have been searching so long for this information! Great video!

[@michaelandrews4783]

Top notch explaining the modeled option

[@johanvanhaarlem1332]

Indeed great solution! I did also an offset from outside and inside diameter face.

[@BillDreisbach]

This was great! Exactly what I was looking for - plus good tutorial on basic Fusion functions. Thanks!

[@drifterz28]

Thanks! I would love to see videos on snap fittings

[@Jimgoodwin846]

Excellent video. I’m a newb at fusion 360 you’re a very good instructor. Thanks 😊

[@stephandevriesere3667]

This has been a great help for me. I always struggled with bolds and nuts, they just never seem to work. Now i know why lol. Thank you for this tutorial, very helpful.

[@Luk3d4wG]

How do you offset the thread edge when the thread doesn't go down the entire cylinder, e.g. threads at the top of a container? Since the thread edge appears to share the same outer diameter as the rest of the cylinder, the offset distance by default is the same diameter as the cylinder and throws errors when I try to change it (by say -.1mm as suggested at 14:40 in the video).

[@williamdelahunty3677]

I knew I didnt have a calibration issue. Thank you so much for this information

[@cigaro_kaz5401]

Excellent video, very well explained. Learned alot. Thank you much!

[@M00000oooo00000]

when making circular fittings i always try to use the revolve function on a sketch of its cross section. in this way you can quickly create pretty complicated fittings.

[@henryhbk]

Great video, with the explanation on how each setting affects the success. Video is slightly older (no emboss tool for text) but super practical content. I had no idea that modeled threads were “normal” geometry and you could futz with the faces (since fusion knows they are threads if you hop to manufacturing). I often tell my students to use modeled threads if they were planning to tap the holes/die the bosses as non-engineering plastics aren’t as happy getting machined and rigid tapping can crack, but cutting existing threads puts much less strain on the face. God before thread tools, doing the helix and sweeping a triangle that pierced the path was so painful to tweak, although you could make any whacky custom thread profile. Want Abraham Lincoln’s head profile as the thread, no-problem! But modeling in 50 holes needed a lot of Red Bull and skipping lunch!

[@haavard812]

Awesome video and spot for solving my issues! All my thumbs up! 🤗

[@s.sradon9782]

tip: if printing a bolt it might be a good idea to remove the threading from the fastener where they will not be engaged to save on print time and increase the effective strength of the part by effectively turning it into a threaded pin.

[@girlmastergeneral]

Another amazing video. I get better everyday watching these!

[@funkynerd_com]

Thank you! Again! I was really stuck trying to figure out clearances on my first 3D printed threads and yet again, you've given me the info I needed to get it done.

[@scornex]

Thank you Kevin for this tutorial..my attempt to print threads ended up like first example. So this will helps me a lot👍

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Ivan! Glad to hear you'll make use of this :)

[@erikm9768]

I would be very interested in learning how to create things like snap-ins and similar techniques for reducing number of screws required for assembling printed components.

[@fe4rurdaddy446]

Oh my gosh it is sooooo much better, recently made a mount for my heat gun with snap in parts. Holds very well and was much much easier overall to create with snap ins.

[@preludecurtis]

Great resource! I've been beating my head against the wall with threads all weekend and one video answered all my questions! Subscribing! Thanks.

[@Görbestúdió]

Very good advices! I try it now! Thank you very much! :3

[@maximthemagnificent]

Was making some custom filters for my paint respirator and your video enabled me to get the threaded caps to work on the first try! Would've had to experiment to get a proper fit otherwise, I'm sure. Thanks.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Glad to hear that, Maximilian! Cheers :)

[@No-ub5ju]

wow, thanks alot. super well detailed and no time wasting either

[@stepheneberly1112]

Huge help. I already printed an embarrassing number of screws and threads trying to figure this out alone.

[@truegret7778]

One 3D printing workflow I struggle with sometimes, is trying to build support structures into a complex Fusion 360 part design. Generally, I can manipulate a model in a slicer and leverage the use of supports (typically tree supports), especially now that the more popular slicers (Cura 5.3.0, Prusa 2.6.0-alpha) support paint-on supports or custom tree supports. I would like to figure out a way to include in the F360 design ways to add break-away supports that I can't generate with the slicers.

[@EEtransmit]

Perfect! Little tip: buy yourself a Spacemouse! Perfect for demonstration as the al the movements are much smoother! I’ll make a donation to help you out.

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Hi, EEtransmit. I actually have one and use one in my regular work. I originally didn't use it for the tutorials because too many people where commenting on how I was moving smoothly and how I didn't show them what i was doing, etc instead of the content of the tutorial... :') Maybe I'll start using it in the tutorials. Cheers, Kevin :)

[@SharkyMoto]

@@ProductDesignOnline can you make a tutorial on how to actually use one / show how its used and its benefits? i'm planning to buy an inexpensive one, but i have no idea what it benefits me and so on

[@FuriousImp]

Fantastic channel, great quality, on all levels. Crazy how your channel only has just under 100k subs.

[@Kek5kopF]

Thank you so much! The solution to increase the thread gap is so simple but I didn't get to it on my own.

[@andybarnett4060]

Finally! Thanks Kevin, really useful as always, I hadn't thought about the effect of using fillets so I guess its time to revisit the m6 thumbscrews I printed for my RasPi vesa mounts (KODI Rules!)... I'd give this another thumbs up if I could!

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Thanks, Andy! :)

[@shashvatverma5673]

I can't offset the face (step to get rounded edges); I'll enter -0.1 offset, it'll seem to process it, but then makes no change to the body?

[@kissopa02]

Change the offset type from automatic to New Offset

[@shashvatverma5673]

@@kissopa02 thank you!

[@grayham6998]

Thank you. Had this problem today trying to make a simple holder for a variable beam splitter. Just a simple spindle and locking nut. I have an SLA printer as well but this was still a problem. I never had any problems with the FDM but I think Autodesk made some changes to the tolerances in one of the updates. Anyway, really useful. Thank you

[@sledgeHammerRulez]

TIP: for people looking for the "paste new", it is not on a body but on a component level! This tip may safe you 15 minutes of your (design) life :p

[@ProductDesignOnline]

Great tip, sledgeHammerRulez! :)

[@ericwilbanks4746]

Thanks for the tutorial, it was helpful in the project I was working on.

[@zackzimmermann3422]

@14:39 I’m getting a warning saying the diameter is invalid when I try make -0.1 offset. What could the issue be?

[@edmarfilho2000]

Great video. You are helping me a lot. I didn't get if you made the 0.1mm offset in each face of the screw, or in the screw and in the nuts.

[@danbeare5263]

Thanks a lot for another useful video! :) Does anybody know why I'm having an issue where the thread on the nut doesn't align with the thread of the bolt? (i.e. When viewed in Section Analysis) Is my only option really to rotate one of the components until it 'looks' good? Seems like unnecessary steps to me...? :/ ??

[@mattstout610]

Offsetting the thread face at 14:28 didn't work on "Offset Type-Automatic". I had to select "Offset Type-New Offset"

[@guillaumequevy418]

Just 3d printed an M8 internal thread with prusament PLA (195°C, 0.4mm nozzle) on my Prusa mk4. No tolerance modification. The M8 screws I have barely fit but I need a wrench to screw them in as it's so tight. Fine for my application, but yeah.