The End of the Ender 7

[@Creality3D]

Thanks for the constant attention onto the Ender-7 paid by mr.Nerd, so to your efforts in using and thinking of this particular product during the past few months. Both your voices and suggestions are of immense value to Creality as we always welcome more users can give us straight advices on our products. Creality hereby stands humbly and devoutly to embrace all concerns from our users, and try our best to perfect all imperfections.

[@Idklol603]

Good job Creality for responding. Maybe you guys could make a v2 that addresses these issues and either discontinue the current ender 7 or lower the price.

[@FAB1150]

That's some weirdly poetic phrasing, but kudos! ;)

[@TheNewFaceOfHSP]

@@FAB1150 Chinglish is a fun language, but we get the intention, I'm and honestly surprised they responded.

[@jeanicezinho]

just the fact that a company sends a second printer to someone who literally cut off a piece of the first one, already shows the seriousness and concern of the company in listening to its customers, and even responding to a video with many criticisms, however constructive already earns credits to the In my opinion, that's why I really like creality, and I hope they keep it that way!

[@philr6829]

@@jeanicezinho kind of hard to call someone with his followers and prominence in the 3DP world a “customer.”

[@FilamentFriday]

It’s now officially called the Ended 7 ;)

[@safran4588]

@@user-yk1cw8im4h daddy, chill.

[@MuhammadAli-ev5jc]

ITS CHEP!

[@LeftJoystick]

lolol

[@FelipeGonzalezHerrera]

@@user-yk1cw8im4h, let's compare your channel with Chep's channel to see who has more authority to say something about 3d printers... 🤣

[@LightCarver]

I've labelled configurations, profiles, etc. for my printer "Ended3" since it was built (almost) stock out of the box.

[@MakersMuse]

Disappointing and exactly as expected. When you ignore real feedback and rely on marketing and flooding the market this is the result, an expensive waste of time for everyone involved. I hope everyone understands how much time and effort you sank into this!!! 😫

[@munzlp]

That's why i can't recommend creality to anyone anymore. In 2018 they were a great deal. Nowadays anycubic Vyper, Artillery Genius, TwoTrees Sapphire, Creativity Elf, Tronxy x5sa and so many other printers smash theirs into the ground.

[@krnxemb]

Like I always tell everyone, just skip chinese 💩

[@munzlp]

@@krnxemb nope. anycubic, Tronxy, Sovol and Artillery are perfect examples of good chinese printers. What you're saying is just ignorant. Just because one chinese sucks ass and pays reviewers, doesn't mean all are like that

[@krnxemb]

@@munzlp you think you are being such fair and just consumer, right? just look how much WE, the none-ccp people continue to contributing to the ccp controlled chinese product development. Of course, it has gotten much better, and it should be good enough by now. they take our investment make cheap, inconsistent, land-filling trash. And now, YOU are totally dependent on them. we came too far, but better now then later dude. See how they r creeping up the cost?

[@munzlp]

@@krnxemb yup, chinese printers are getting more and more expensive. That's mainly because the EU's extra tax + the actual QC being paid at these companies

[@RoseKindred]

I have to say, it is refreshing to hear a channel speak honest opinions, especially with machines that were sent to them. Many reviewers would just not put a video if they notice issues. This was a nice change of pace.

[@SylvieTheBagel]

Agree.

[@5Hydroxytryptophan]

Well the failure was in a live stream.. you can not do much get this out of the world. I do agree though, a lot of reviewers would simply delete the stream and keep silent about it.

[@cenciende9401]

Prove it. I certainly don't watch a single channel without honesty and I wouldn't think there are that many more established ones out there. I have to say this again and again, if you ever grow up you'll realise that someone having a different opinion on a product or having a different experience with it than yourself or others doesn't mean they're being dishonest or biased, it's called reality where we aren't all clones of eachother and each product which comes out of a factory is slightly different as a result of a million factors.

[@MisterMakerNL]

They don't do it because they make money from referral links, and bad machines don't sell. So they don't get money from true those referral links. Hope that Joel can keep this going, because we need more people like him!

[@Just3DPrinting]

of course the problem is, until a Chanel reaches the dizzy heights of 3dPN where a manufacturer HAS to have a review on it or be properly critical for fear of not getting free review printers, accessories, filament ets ect and other manufacturers throwing freebies their way... Having been given a glimpse of the whole process, and having experienced the "reviewer private conversations" including all the faults they have found and the replacement parts and even complete printer replacements being sent to them before review release, and then the reviews which appear that mention NONE of this behind the scenes chatter and shenanigans I would advise buyers wait till REAL USERS start posting real user reviews to find out the truth. I always knew it would be happening and Makers Muse blew the lid on it some time ago, but until you witness it first hand there is always doubt, but no doubt for me now. The printer I reviewed was damn near perfect, and I said so, had I not thought so I would have said because I really dont have the time, the inclination , nor the desire for any more printers to review free or otherwise so I had nothing to loose. And reviews on a manufacturers site, not worth a shit unless it is a third party review system such as trust pilot etc, even those CAN be manipulated in the startup phase at least. All manufacturer website reviews are vetted by the manufacturer and if the review does not meet their needs it will not appear on the site end of story.. Buyer beware, its a corrupt system..

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

That was a great story, Joel. I think you're right: Reviews and comparison videos can be a challenge to make engaging, but I'm really glad we got the condensed version and your full experience over so many months. High five!

[@TremereTT]

I heard all Enders need the tinkerer to buy a premium 3rd party bedsurface . I also heard you need to print custom fanducts for the Prusa MK3 so the cooling works properly. Are these just myths?

[@3DPrintedTabletop]

@@TremereTT I’ve owned many Enders and never owned a premium 3rd party bed surface. I’ve only had to replace one, and replaced it with a $20 and they’ve been just fine. Wish I could speak to the Mk3, but can’t say it’s been my experience with the Ender line.

[@tuskam]

@@TremereTT You surely don't need any additional purchases or prints for mk3s to work properly. I have been printing with it for around a year and apart from self inflicted problems and one bad filament I never had any problems caused by the machine.

[@petermeier3153]

The Ender7 is actually a great printer. The motion system is sturdy and capable. Just the extruder and hotend is garbage. Replaced that with a direct extruder/hotend combo and am happily printing at 500mm/s since then.

[@teddysoft]

I dont understand the problems, i have been using my Ender-7 without any kind of trouble. Last project took around 55hrs to print, more or less non-stop printing. Best regards Ted

[@VikramKalidindi]

I upgraded my Ender 3 to one of Creality's textured glass plates and it was one of the moodiest surfaces I've ever printed on. Some days things would just refuse to stick, some days prints would stick and refuse to budge. I found running it in the dishwasher helped but it was also super sensitive to drafts in the space and ambient temperature. Creality should have shipped the Ender 7 with a decent PEI sheet and some sort of auto leveling system especially for $700.

[@OhHeyTrevorFlowers]

I flipped the textured side down and use it as a basic glass plate. Much better.

[@brandonbrown3600]

The glass beds from creality benefit largely to being g scrubbed with dish soap and a sponge under hot water. They have a coating of some sort on them that seems to be finicky but once well washed they work great. That's been my experience at least.

[@beauslim]

The pattern-coated glass plates need to be completely free of any kind of oil from your hands. One touch from a finger and you have a spot that won't adhere. A little IPA works wonders. I totally agree about temperature and drafts.

[@iskandartaib]

Try a sheet of G10 (as per Maker's Muse) or Polycarbonate (relatively cheap). For the latter, scuff it up with sandpaper.

[@concernedcitizen780]

I used Elmer’s purple stick glue and get good bed adhesion. Drys clear and sticks well. I have a glass bed. Glass bed at 60c for PLA.

[@seedmoreuser]

I find creality seems to have departments that run in different directions, some towards a goal and others into the gutter. The ender 3 really took them into orbit, but they seem to be releasing printers that are very poor quality with basic build issues. My cr-5 Pro h is an example of a premium printer made poorly. And that, really has tainted my opinion on creality as a whole.

[@Martial-Mat]

100% agree.

[@Oma_Ender]

Same happened with my Ender 3 absolutely nothing worked out of box and their rather crappy customer support was just garbage great first experience with 3D printing huh? If I wanted my 200 back I had to send the thing to China just so it could be what? Scrapped I'd be out almost 300 if I did that.

[@cameronsettle3555]

I totally agree. I started 3D printing in December for the first time, bought a CR6 Max for $900 and I thought I was buying a premium printer. That was far from "reality" heh. Thankfully, I bought it from Microcenter with the protection plan and was able to return it for store credit. I have a Prusa Mk3 now and couldn't be happier, took me 10 hours to build it myself

[@condorman6293]

I'm not sure if Creality works the same as DJI, another Shenzhen based Chinese company, but when I worked there I saw that each product had different leadership, goals, and connections to the CEO. Some products simply had a much more powerful team and therefore got more budget etc. I wonder if it's similar at Creality.

[@mophie6941]

I used an ender 3v2 for 2 months from amazon, kept having problem every 2-3 days. Returned it and bought a prusa mk3s+. It's been printing flawlessly for more than a year with out a problem, I trust this machine so much it's insane. I don't even trust my ratrig v-core 3 as much as I trust my prusa yet hahaha

[@crussty3d]

But… but all you have to do is tweak the thingamajiger and replace the whatchamacalit, then you can print a modified whoochimanani from thingiverse… and … and…. Oh screw it. Just blow the dang thing up and burn it with fire!!!

[@ramazan0124]

i have a ender 7 because of a sale, changing the hotend to a brand new one fixed evrything. now it is as consistent as a prusa and no glue needed. it has been printing for 4 months withe no service and gone through 7 spools of pla

[@MasterToothPick]

I have had mine for about a month now, it took me a couple of days to fine tune the settings but I was able to get consistent bed adhesion and haven’t touched the bed since. The initial set up though was challenging and I haven’t reached the advertised speeds with good strength and quality but I have found that it does print faster when doing larger prints.

[@William3DP]

Creality is a 3D printing company that has excellent ideas, but they are often really garbage at implementing those ideas. They still have a bad habit of releasing products with problems and then just thinking that the user community will sort them out. I am still extremely disappointed that they repeatedly and blatantly violate the Marlin GPL license on their printers by not publishing their Marlin source code.

[@AudreyRobinel]

I think they are way better at scouting the community to find ideas to implement than to develop their own ones. Do they really have excellent ideas? what is their original design/idea/contribution? On the other hand, implementation is sometimes a great success of theirs : they really managed to improve the quality of the entry level printers AND lower the ticket.

[@William3DP]

@@AudreyRobinel I have yet to hear of a Creality printer that does not require some sort of 'fix' right out of the box, whether that is replacing a bad part, replacing a poor quality part, replacing a poorly designed part, or altering firmware. This is what I mean by bad implementation. On the other hand, I believe in concept, most of their printers are good.

[@harrylenon9594]

I agree that the front piece probably didn't have a whole lot to do with it not matching its ridiculous claims, however saying that "vorons don't have that piece, therefore it's not needed" doesn't make sense. The design is different, the components are different and structural rigidity may come from different pieces. Not saying your conclusion is wrong, but I wouldn't dismiss an idea because a completely different design doesn't have something

[@nalfy_5075]

Lets face it, Creality do nothing more than steal designs and ideas and badly implement them. There is not a single crality machine that works well without mods. They just want to make money and dont care about the product

[@SylvieTheBagel]

"High efficiency control algorithm" Marlin. It's called marlin.

[@robb2465]

I'll admit I did have quite a few issues when I first got my Ender 7 but I had only been printing for a few months on my Ender 3 Pro so I was still in the learning phase. Once I completely loosened every screw on the bed and tightened them in a criss cross pattern I had zero issues. I even stopped using glue sticks and blue painters tape. Some of my prints could probably be slowed down a little bit but once I worked out my bugs it has been working great for me!! Two things I will agree with you are the price sucks and auto level should have came stock on it. I mean WTF!!! it comes with a grayed out selection for auto level so why not throw it in for the price!! After all is said and done, I love my Ender 7, 3 Pro and 5 Plus.

[@robb2465]

Crap, I was going to attach a video of a print I just started on my Ender 7 with no tape or glue stick but no option to add video in comments.

[@roll4stealth671]

@@robb2465 post it to youtube and then provide link?

[@mistaecco]

@@roll4stealth671 yo nice icon

[@roll4stealth671]

@@mistaecco favorite pokemon lol

[@roll4stealth671]

This wouldn't be the first time a major 3d printing channel "reviews/gives thoughts on" a printer only to have some in the community to say they have had great success with that printer. Makers muse had nothing but bad things to say about the ender 3 only to have the community price him wrong which caused him to do another video about it.

[@NicodemusT]

Thank you for saying zed during this difficult time.

[@RamKumar-zn6vj]

I am using Ender 7 with Klipper firmware. With some minor software tuning and slicer config, I am consistently getting very good quality prints at 250mm/s. You need to tune the config, where it needs to slow down and where to run at full throttle. But, this machine is doing very fast than my previous Ender 3 V2. The hardware can easily handle this speed. So no need to worry about upgrading hardware parts. My slow speed printing is now 100mm/s and I haven't gone less than that for most of the time. I use 50mm/s speed only when I am printing with 0.2mm nozzle and when printing very minute details. If you know anything about 3d printing, you'll sure like this printer very much.

[@angelusmortis3256]

or i could spend the same money on a prusa and get amazing quality after a fresh kit build... but go on...

[@RamKumar-zn6vj]

@@angelusmortis3256 I bought the Ender 7. So, I have to go through this to get the best out of it. But, it gave me enough of a chance to learn many new things. But if you want the best out of the box, sure you have options.

[@spudnickuk]

Mine runs at a better quality than my Enders 3 v2 and 3pro, You just tune/dial it in as you do the same with any other new printer and all is perfect even after 300 plus prints later No further tuning needed so i will be buying another one or two, as they are very good printers even printing at 90 ms I guess some people don't know how to setup correctly! So there is nothing wrong with them as i even setup my friends Ender 7 and he has had no problems, just good prints again and again.

[@Exploringthepositive]

I'll be honest I was not happy with the Ender 7 when I first got it as a gift. Especially after watching your videos. I had bad prints consistently. Then I removed the glass plate and the 4 clips. I stuck a magnetic sheet down and used a sheet of pei. Now I print with a bed temp of 65 and speed of 200. Everything comes.out perfectly. Consistent prints at high speeds.

[@scottcunningham7543]

Same here.

[@hammerfallen12345]

Did same upgrade with my Ender 6 but I also bought cylindrical rubber to use instead of springs underneath the bed. Now I can rely on it more.

[@Exploringthepositive]

@@hammerfallen12345 interesting idea can you post a link here for what you used?

[@hammerfallen12345]

@@Exploringthepositive Tried to send link but it seems as it got removed by youtube

[@pbshooter100]

Unfortunately there was another well known YT content creator who I will not name who completely trashed the CR6SE when it came out. I bought one anyway and it worked perfectly out of the box. I know others who have had the same experience with that printer and none where it performed as reported by said content creator. Because of that experience and other cases which I won't go into due to time I'm finding most of the popular YT 3d printing content providers to be less than reliable when it comes to information. Because of that I take any comments made, include the ones here, with a huge grain of salt.

[@lasersandlayers]

I doubt this is a case of the KZbinr not knowing what they’re talking about or being wrong in their experience. We had great luck with our initial cr6-se and then bought another and had the worst luck with it. We’ve had multiple Creality machines work flawlessly, some that don’t, and know others who definitely know what they’re doing that haven’t had great experiences. Sometimes we get lemons. Sometimes we get great machines. It happens with the cheap machines, high end machines, it’s even happening right now with a machine that costs multiple thousands of dollars. People have different experiences. All we do on KZbin is tell you about ours. ✌🏻

[@pbshooter100]

@@lasersandlayers Yes I hear you and know that you are correct in what you say. There are always lemons out there across just about any product. This is just me but I hold the popular YT content creators to a higher standard. For me gone are the days that they can just bring in a product and just report on it's function. Again for me they need to delve deeper into the actual reasons why a product succeeded or failed. With the old YT revenue model a thing of the past many of these content creators are looking for new revenue streams. One example is some type of partnership with a product supplier. I'm some cases this partnership results in disingenuous promotion designed to manipulate the viewer in the guise of helping them make a choice based on correct information. Case in point is the recent release of Battlefield 2042. You may or may not know but this game release has been one of the worse in gaming history. It's so bad over 100K+ folks asked for a refund (of course they didn't get it). Leading up to the games release the 3-4 leading Y/T battlefield content creators provided insights into the game when they were provided early access to the game. None of them mentioned the serious problems with the game leading 100's of thousands of gamers to think the game was good enough to buy. Turns out that most if not all of them were paid by EA and put under NDA to play the early release of the game and report on it. This type of behavior isn't limited to just gaming YT'ers. Anyway those are some reasons why we shouldn't blindly trust the YT stars like we might have in the past. Even this video seems a little suspect with it's subdued mention of the PRUSA MK3. It was the only other printer mentioned in this video and implied that one should look there for a printer that works (and to be honest they do work). So essentially a shill for the PRUSA disguised as a bad review for the Ender 7. Not saying that was the intent but one could come to the conclusion that was the case and not be wrong.

[@johnnytakisawa]

I'm still using a cr-10. They nailed that one.

[@GoBayside]

The CR-6SE - AFTER 1) swapping out the crummy plastic feeder for a metal one 2) tweaking temperatures for every pla, 3) replacing a dead power switch, and 4) always using blue tape... it gets good results. It would be nice to get to a point where laser paper printers are today, load it up with media and press print.

[@ryangamble5131]

Textured Pei should really be the standard bed surface at this point

[@3000johns]

I do own an ender 7, not sure if i got a one off good piece but for me the Ender 7 was functional out of the box, except for the issue with vase mode when printing off the sdcard. I always have my print bead atleast at 50c for prints and have not had issues with print adhesion. Recently i set the printer up with Klipler and am enjoying the superior printing experience now that i have pressure advance. But Creality did miss the mark on many things , i asked them for the printers Marlin source and they just said some BS as reply. But with Klipper the printer has been giving me fast and reliable printing. mods/tweaks done updated to use klipper moved to a shorter better quality bowden tube

[@steffenadamski2786]

Got mine today, Setup was none in 20 minutes. Sliced a benchy in cura with 150mm print speed, 2500mm acceleration and jeark set to 12. Used some old left over petg. Print was successfully completed in one hour. Quality is very good already. Want to klip mine as well, any hints from you?

[@3000johns]

@@steffenadamski2786 my replies seem to be getting deleted , i can post a l i n k to a g it hub once i am able to put my cfg there

[@3000johns]

i will add more info there and and update the readme, there are few things to watch out for like the default Klipper firmware cfg causes the heated bed to come on at start up if the raspberry with a running klipper or mainsail os with klipper is connected, the firmware in the repo has that issue corrected and i have uploaded that corresponding config file also ,but unless u are an experienced tinkerer please give me some more time so i can update more info and you can have a safer and smooth migration to klipper

[@3000johns]

@@steffenadamski2786 the stupid KZbin algorithm seems to be crazy keeps deleting my comments now am curious what the f does it actually set as criteria i tried keeping the comments short concise without links, Keywords shitty thing keeps deleting so this time trying something new a longer comment so hopefully u can find the repo i g i t h ub if u search with ender7 klipper starter pack i will add details in the readme , just uploaded all dependent files as a first step

[@steffenadamski2786]

@@3000johns sounds great, good that you plan to solve the bed heating on startup which i have seen as well.

[@dtaggartofRTD]

I've found that those beds get much better adhesion upside down. the clean glass works rather well for PLA and some other materials.

[@spudnickuk]

yes you are correct as i have found that out also so i have 2 glass beds and a magnetic one for my enders 3v2 so when using wood filament i use the magnetic bed, and for Pla plus I take of the top part of the magnetic build plate and put the glass bed on top of the magnetic bottom part that is stuck to the main build plate and never get a problem with adhesion

[@bfvanish]

I bought this Ender7 2 months ago, and I regret it now. My problem is that no matter how I adjust it, the Z axis is not lifted at the bottom 1-4 layers, causing it to keep hitting the nozzle.

[@mrfoameruk]

People seem to buy these to print faster but I decided to buy another printer so I had 2. These run slower (but you are making 2 at a time) so give better prints but cost the same as a the ender 7 combined. These can also be different so one is direct drive vs bowden so if you need flexible printed you can use that instead. 2 printers vs 1 seems to give better prints and more flexibility. Suppose you could always say if one breaks you can still finish the job where if you have one , your done.

[@ironsidecustoms]

I fell for the hyp and now have a very expensive table decoration. Extruder motor died just after the 3 month warranty ended. They cannot send just motor, they have to replace the entire top. I am done buying experimental equipment that has no replacement parts or upgrades. I did fix bed leveling issue with better springs and I did not have a twisted bed.

[@MandicReally]

Armchair Engineers: "The Ender 7 NEEDS that support!" **Prusa XL 360x360 enters the chat.**

[@LincolnWorld]

I really appreciate your transparency, fairness, and honesty in these sorts of videos. It's crazy to think that you have put so much time into this machine and had to scrap the other video, as well as end up with 2 machines you can't really even use after all that effort. Do you have any events you are coming out to Southern California for coming up? I miss going to to 3D printing events. It's been so long. High-5!

[@davewhite16]

My Ender 3 was bought with that same style glass bed, and I couldn't get any models to stick, every print failed. I bought the magnetic bed off Amazon and am now a happy printer, so far, no fails.

[@saltysteel3996]

What about a PEI steel bed and a better extruder? Wonder if that would make it work better?

[@rajkumarukkuturi7115]

Actually, the front price is needed for these machines. This is not for rigidity of the machine but to maintain the perpendicularity of the axes. Majority of the time aluminium extrusions come is straight shape but what I noticed in many creality machines is that they are not perfectly square. I suggest you to perform a dimensions test between both machines and check whether the part squareness is perfect.

[@MrWobling]

Exactly why I love my Prusa - consistency.

[@tomhsia4354]

Exactly. It may not have the best print finish, not by a long shot, but it can produce the exact same prints with exactly the same finish every single time. It's also a printer you can just start and then ignore.

[@poeticlydead]

You should do a whole video or even series called "What does it take to make the ender 7 print and print well?" It would be a great watch a series to see what upgrades you can throw at it to get it to print like the machine it was supposed to be. Maybe get some sponsors to give you parts to try - flex plate bed, new hot end, etc....

[@MakersMuse]

It's a fun idea but just more free marketing for creality imo, who failed to deliver a working product to start with.

[@poeticlydead]

@@MakersMuse possibly but in the end it would showcase the short comings of the machine and a final round up video could compare the cost of making the 7 print well vs other options - how much do you need to spend to reliably print 250mm/s. It could be entertaining and useful content and by starting the video with a reminder of the previous poor performance vs where you are going with it I don't think it will provide any undo positive publicity for this particular machine. It's not a dis on the brand they make other machines that work at a reasonable price this one just fell short of its overconfident advertising. But hey just an idea.

[@beauslim]

The CR-30 is another "premium" priced printer from Creality with some goofy problems from the factory. Simple things, like the silicone sock not being trimmed enough and rubbing on the conveyor and the little belt that drives the conveyor being too tight (causing the stepper to overheat and miss steps). I wonder if the issue with the Ender 7 is some trivial error being made during assembly.

[@Badspot]

I got a BLTouch upgrade for my Sovol and it became a totally different machine. I cannot imagine paying $700 for a machine without one. Honestly I can't imagine designing a machine without some kind of bed sensor, It's just such a huge value add.

[@krux-x6o]

For me, the printer worked like a charm out of the box. I had no problems with adhesion at all.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

That's great! I'm very happy to hear it works for you!

[@stevenmitchell7830]

I purchased five Ender 5 plus, a D1 and two CR10 Max. Two completely dead out of the box. One with a bad filament sensor. The D1 came with a limit switch micro broken in half which caused it to score its own bed on the first Home. One had bad firmware. Three of the SD cards supplied failed within a week. Couldn't get bed adhesion on anything without glue. One LCD failed within a week. Two of the BLTouch sensors had bent pins from new. The BLTouch Picoblade conector wiring failed on three of the Ender 5 Plus within a week, due to really poor wiring terminations. All the Ender 5 Plus have chronically bent build plates that continue to bend as you heat them up.... joy. I have no idea how Creality sell products with such incredibly bad quality control. When you try and get support or parts they ask ridiculous questions like "have you watched our tutorials?". They wouldn't even cover the bent BLTouch pins under warranty, even though they arrived bent. Creality will send your hair grey by age 23. Live long and happy by buying Flashforge or Prusa.

[@explosiveentertainment6178]

Man, i had a job where i used real printers where i made prototypes with my dad. He passed away a couple of years ago and my famliy got one of these the following christmas. I recently finally got some inspiration and actual joy out of printing again after visiting a workshop while on vacation. Coming home i finally set the ender 7 up and using this pile of junk kinda whisped away my thunder. I really did love 3D printing and failing over and over again using this printer takes the long lost fun away again. Im kinda broke as i am a student, would there be any printers that you would recommend that i buy? I kinda need to pick the best for PETG the first time around lol. Keep up the good work my guy, love your vids

[@tomhsia4354]

700USD?! I might as well get a Prusa MK3s+ kit.

[@errolx]

You can try turning the glass bed upsidedown and use 0.2mm nozzle instead of the 0.4mm nozzle

[@incinerati]

I'm running my Ender 5 Plus without the top front beam. And it prints without any issues.

[@lsellclumanetsolarenergyll5071]

So if print's don't stick.... does a bed material change like a PEI or Flex spring steel fixes it ?

[@WilliamBlakers]

Ohhhh a Futurama clip, classy. Cant wait for the new series.

[@marktrageser6289]

I cut the front off two of them with no issue. they work better without it no matter what the theorists say. If you run them at lower speeds you can get results common to ender, but I assume you know that, and if you go slow what's the point, right? I use them regularly. When I need big parts fast I can shave 1 hour off a 3-hour part. I have magnetic beds on mine and have no peel issues.

[@marktrageser6289]

also, i found that to fix flimsy parts turning up the heat helped- it seems the lower temp head couldn't keep up with the flow speed.

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

As we say here in South Africa, EISH! What a sad end to what was supposed to be an Ender flagship printer. We know we can trust your judgement. Thank you for great content.

[@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842]

I guess we have the same word in Norwegian: Æsj!

[@Not_me737]

I've found the creality glass beds are terrible. I switched to a sheet of G10 and all my bed adhesion issues vanished! If the bed didn't suck would your opinion be the same?

[@urban1337]

I appreciate your honesty about a product asking for a premium price and not providing a premium performance.

[@zbigniewwielgus1249]

What material you print? PLA? And bed temperature? On creality stock glass bed you need more than 60stC to get good adhesion on any material (on PETG i even broke the bed bcs it cant go out without glass).

[@old_newbie9498]

I would guess that its because the bed is only supported on one end, in addition to it being the part that has to move along the Z axis. I just dont think that the bed can be stable enough in this type of configuration. (IE. There is probably too much play/looseness whenever pressure from the nozzle is applied on the bed, especially near the front of the printer where it is further away from the z-axis adjoining support bracket). TL;DR: I think the bed needs a second point of contact to guide/stabilize its motion along the Z-axis.

[@paulorlyk7271]

I am designing and building my own 3D printer the first time out of 2040 aluminum extrusions. Had some frame resonance issues. Watched your video and relocated the front horizontal beam below core xy frame and it helped with vibrations. Resonances are not completely gone but it's much better now (yeah, I kind of screwed up). Tests showed some degradation in print quality, but only on higher speeds and accelerations, where it was not good anyways. At 300 mm/s and 1000mm/s^2 I could not tell the difference (still building a print profile for it). In my opinion, since 3D printer parts are experiencing mostly dynamic loads, it actually can be light duty built. As long as core xy frame stays square in the moments of print head and gantry accelerations/deceleration and keeps it's relative position to the table it should be fine.

[@andrewwoulfe6579]

Not sure what went wrong with Creality. My first ever machine was an Ender 3 Pro, so we know they can make a machine and still works great 3 years in. My second was a CR10S Pro that was a complete pile of crap. Ended up selling it for parts after 18 months of frustration. 3rd machine Anycubic Predator, nice machine with some issues. 4th machine was a CR6 Smart, OK machine after a lot of tweaking and community firmware upgrade. 5th Machine was CR10-Smart. Not so smart, but after disabling most features I do get decent prints . Also had to dump the machine WIFI and redo the USB to enable octoprint. I can pretty much guarantee my next machine will not be a Creality .

[@darksheepvids]

This is so strange as you say they have just recently released the Ender 3 S1 and every one is saying it , how wonderful that is , so its sucks this one is a let down

[@3DPrintingNerd]

The S1 *is* really good - review coming soon :)

[@MrNickpeck36]

I'm loving the S1 as well. I was negative on it when I got my first one, but figured it had some issues do to shipping. When I got my 2nd one in, bed leveled perfectly and has been solid since, nice and smooth. The only thing I don't like are how the wheels under the bed fray as I have to clean it (and I made sure they aren't too tight), but other than that, it's a solid printer imo.

[@3DMusketeers]

Glad to see videos like this. Showing both the good and bad sides is important! Thanks for doing this Joel, I am sure it was not easy, but it was needed.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thanks man!

[@lucaskerr4364]

I really don't know if you guys tried, but that worked for me, i have a ender 3 max that i cant make the parts stick, so... i flipped the bed, i use the bare glass side

[@lennynnnnnn]

Can we get some more details? All I got was that bed leveling was inconsistent, but based of the prints, there were likely other issues. Slicer settings, clogged nozzles, etc? Some of these can likely be fixed easily. Granted the product should come working from the vendor, but if its a few minor tweaks, to make it great, I would love to hear more.

[@BlueJeebs]

I bought an ender 3. Got about a dozen nice prints with it...But in the end I spent double the printer's price on spare parts and upgrades. I don't think I'm ever buying an ender machine again and despite I was skeptical about the price tag on the prusa machines I have not heard of issues of this caliber about prusa printers...Guess I know what brand I'm buying next. For a reference, I've been spending at least 5 hours a week 3D printing for the last year and a half and 80% spent on the ender was frustrating (I got a Tronxy as well and don't even get me started)). I got these printers to print but it's more tweaking calibrating and re-calibrating than printing.

[@Hugocraft]

I'm not interested in buying any printer without auto bed leveling

[@gaxon1920]

These are on sale now for $249, first thing I did was add abl and toss the Bowden set up. I honestly think the extruder was causing issues. After I changed it, the print quality is consistent and much better.

[@TheStraycat74]

I have an Ender 3. good machine to learn on, but for what I do I think I'm going to trade it in for a AnyCubit mono 4k resin printer (mostly battletech figurines)

[@JonLHenry]

Hi 3D Printing Nerd, Quick question for you related to the tests. Did you run any tests that would print at lower speeds, like 100mm/sec or 50mm/sec, which of course is not what they advertised, but curious to know if the core issue manifested when running the extrusion process at higher temps and at greater speeds, the machine couldn't "keep up" while attempting to regulate the controlled heating and cooling off of extruded filament. Could this per second value be manually changed via the UI? I almost bought two of the Ender 7's today as they dropped in price significantly during a flash sale. But I'm going to go with the 5 pros instead. Thank you for being so steadfast about the Ender 7 reviews.

[@tonykyle2655]

That is a very honest opinion. May not be popular, but it feels honest and you have the prints to back it up. Of course you are going to be inundated with people saying you're wrong. You're not. You are expressing your opinion based on your experience with 2 systems over many hours (thousands of hours) of operation. Thank you for the video.

[@lastdon6585]

What printer would you recommend for a beginner?

[@monsterstorm78]

the ender 7 worth buying at all any pros or cons ?

[@nunyabizness6734]

I wonder if slapping some insulation on the under side of the bed would help, along with checking all the rollers and bearings. It might not he worth $700 as is, but if someone could show Creality where they went wrong with it, and they fix it, maybe they could salvage it as a product, and let current owners know how to make it work as advertised so they're not spinning their wheels chasing solutions that don't work.

[@Popatoh]

Creality does not give a damn about fixing its products. They just care about flooding the market with subpar printers. Ask Naomi Wu, she used to work for them, she fought tooth and nail to make Creality put out good printers and designed the CR-30 for them. But now she left the company because basically during all that time, she was fighting the mediocrity on each level, the CR-6 SE specifically was the final nail in the coffin according to all her (numerous) tweets about it. It's pointless, the company is good for the trash bin, as are most of their printers. Out of their whole lineup only the Ender 3s1, Ender 5 Plus, CR-10v2 pro, CR-10 V3 and CR-30 are good, but those are sold at an enormous price compared to better alternatives from other brands where you don't have to run and change parts like the extruder on the very first day.

[@michaelplaczek9385]

Did you clean the bed with dish soap and warm water?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Dish soap and warm water, IPA, dish soap and cold water, added blue tape, Magigoo, and glue stick. Tried a bunch of stuff :(

[@TKommandant]

I want a good 3d printer and my budget is 580$ what should i buy ?

[@onemansvideos2134]

Bunny "H" I can see a difference from bunny "G"....there's stripes

[@onesadtech]

Absolutely fantastic overview of this product! Totally agree that for the price I would like to see ABL included, and just a more polished experience. I just got an Ender 3 V2 a couple months ago, and so far my only real issue was one of the wires to the hotend had some kinda problem that resulted in a "TEMP TOO HIGH" warning, and then no heat at all... a very early failure, but I just replaced it with a slightly better wire because I love fixing stuff, and the Ender 3 was like $240CAD or something. Point is, if I paid $500+ for it I would have been way more unhappy and consider returning it. So your last point is a very good one!

[@Mr-J...]

How does the Ender-6 compare?

[@teobekfast6122]

I like how your really frank about this, and not just advertising the good. I've been looking for a 3d printer to start, and this has been really helpful.

[@robertlaw4073]

Looks like temperature and cooling setting issues. Possible the gcode is not particularly suited to these machines - especially if the stuff that came out of the files supplied with the machine were much better than your megazoid stuff. Also, the ONLY way stuff doesn't stick to carbarundum glass is when you have a problem with your first layer parameters. The issue may be that their leveling assumptions and initial layer settings don't scale in terms of speed - that is, as you print at higher speed, you will also have less cooling time per layer, you might have goose up the nozzle temp at the same time in order to melt filament faster, so those things work to mess up in the way your describing. With better instructions to printer that match the printing conditions, you would have less problem.

[@thebcd04]

I purchased a z axis upgrade kit from Amserv3d, added a wham bam pei bed and put on a bltouch. This has made all the difference in the world.

[@rhadiem]

Joel, you can help the consumer by coming up with a standard on what is a "Budget tinkerers printer" or a "Workhorse Approved" level printer. I feel like a lot of knockoff companies are racing to the bottom to deliver a better value version of a printer, but customers don't realize they bought a "Budget Tinkerers printer" (ie Ender 3) versus a "Workhorse Approved" level experience. It's okay if people buy Yugos instead of Hondas and Toyotas, but most people have no idea what they're buying and just look at price and flavortext on the box.

[@ChrizRockster]

Most of what you can take from this is that some people talk utter rubbish. Probably adding an exclamation mark where they really needed to be putting a question mark? Some people also can't think straight because their mouths are making too much noise. I felt that when you made the cut - it actually improved the machine in many ways. It also aligns with what the Prusa XL looks like as well as others. One of the many reasons I love Engineering.

[@alwaysfallingshort]

My buddy did everything he could to help me get my Ender 3 up and running. I just sold it to him for really cheap and called it a learning opportunity. It seems their problems are systemic, because every subsequent release has been the same thing. If you're a hobbyist and want to get into the building and tweaking of 3D Printers, I still think it's a good hobby machine. But in the same way that if you're more of a technician you want a hobby car you can tweak endlessly, a racer just needs a car that works. I want to spend my time playing with models and tweaking my prints, not maintaining the printer. I'd much rather spend some money next time and get a bigger, better, more finished machine that Just Works(tm)--but I am also going to wait for more space, a 3D printer is just unwieldly in an apt.

[@LeftJoystick]

My only printer for 2 years was an Ender 3 Pro. Now have a Prusa i3 MK3S+….haven’t even thought of my modded/upgraded Ender 3 since assembling the Prusa lol. Can’t do Creality machines anymore tbh.

[@nubletten]

Did you try installing a good plate and lower the print speed to the same as you use on the kit printer you compare to?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Yes

[@Jproulx426]

That stupid textured bed sucks, I had huge issues with it even with adhesive additive. I got frustrated and dropped my Z axis only to come back to huge gouges in the textured side. I flipped the bed to the smooth glass side and it’s been sooooo much better!

[@spuds7677]

I am new to 3d printing. What 3d printers would you recommend?

[@amser3dsupport416]

This printer needs klipper in the worst kind of way. When printing at higher speeds with small movements the stock board tends to lag and creates blobs. Klipper unlocks the full potential of the Ender 7 and gets rid of the lag. We sell upgrade kits for the Ender 7 at Amserv3d

[@HuntingHeresy]

I've been having bed leveling issues with my Ender 7. I regularly have to re-level it. You're 100% right that this machine should have come with BL Touch or something similar. My Ender 5 Plus has been running nonstop with no appreciable failures with the new Creality hot end upgrade, direct drive, and BL Touch. Need to upgrade the 7 and Sermoon I bought over the holiday sales to have ABL I guess.

[@howardbartlett3419]

About the missing front section, I am able to push my vorons to upwards of 600mm/s print speed, and they are still only limited by the hotends ability to melt the material fast enough. I recently started experimenting with putting custom brushless servo motors on one of them, and the frame gap still doesn't show any major issues with over 500W of input power on the XY gantry.

[@chazj1976]

I run 10 Sapphire pro core xys with duet wifi boards and bl touch.. yes a bit of tinkering needed to get right. But they are great reliable and 1 has a e3d volcano heater block , the other a CHT nozzle and they can print nicely at 100mm/s. 250mm/sec is very ambition on what looks like a pretty stock hotend

[@krunchy3761]

I don't understand why auto bed leveling isn't standard on new printers nowadays. Yeah it raises the price, but for most people it substantially reduces frustration. A BL touch kit can be had for under $50 on Amazon. I would assume it would cost the manufacturers significantly less. I have a Taz 6 that only takes 4 points (corners) on a fixed mounted bed, and once the z-height was set, gives me a good first layer almost all the time. I also have an Ender 5 plus with a Bl touch and takes 16 points (might be 9), and an adjustable bed - it just has the step of getting a manual level good enough, set the z-height, and print. So on a $700 high speed printer, this is inexcusable. They also need to get rid of those crappy plastic extruders that break within a couple of months.

[@ThisTall]

So what is the best machine under $1000 for more mechanically oriented parts with good speed? High resolution is important, but secondary to strength and speed. If it already takes a few hours to get a small project designed and ready to print, having it take 12 hours with any chance of failure whatsoever, is going to be a deal breaker 90% of the time.

[@mobilechaosyt]

But for all the individuals that purchased one, can you make it work and how much is it going to cost?

[@3DPrintingNerd]

That’s a good question. Maybe I keep them and take it through an upgrade route.

[@mobilechaosyt]

@@3DPrintingNerd Yes for sure. Or maybe a second channel 3D Printing Dr where you dissect and mod printers to make them better. Then bring them back to the main channel for the Head to Head battle. Yeah I know to much Battle Bots.

[@brooklyn11218]

Oh I really want to see that Megazord.

[@drramtop1576]

I own a pair of Ender 7s and Joel is pretty much right about them. Out of the box they are not good printers at all. Print quality is just plain bad, regardless of the filament used prints have zits, z banding and corner bulges. The textured side of the glass bed is the single worst print surface I've used. PLA will not stick to it at all - the plain glass side is better. First thing any Ender 7 owner should do is buy a new print surface. The fans are noisy and the control board uses loud drivers. There's also a consistent issue with the nozzle scraping over the print, causing the linear rails to rattle like crazy. But the biggest issue is the bed mounting system. It's terrible. The bed will sag toward the near edge and is also unstable and the act of unsticking a print can cause it to tilt slightly to one side, requiring re-levelling. Consistency is not the Ender 7's strong point. It's also prone to developing a motherboard fault that causes the X and Y steppers to run at half speed, limiting printing to the rear left corner of the bed and making levelling nearly impossible. There's absolutely a market for a quality sub $1000 core XY machine that doesn't come in kit form. Not everyone has time to build a Voron or a Ratrig. But the Ender 7 is not that machine. On the plus side, it does actually print really fast. Some prints finish in 1/3 the time of my bed-slinger machines. For rapid prototyping it is a somewhat useful machine. But the quality suffers and endless fiddling is required to get a reasonable print, which negates much of the speed advantage.

[@JimmieZ89]

I can tell the difference on the bunny print at 4:53 I swear to you. Just don't know if that is because of the filament or the printer on the horizontal banding and color change on the right side bunny print. Though for $700 that's a big fat NOPE for any Creality printer for me.

[@theonlyjaie]

Agreed, overall, they really did match quality, other than the bunny did seem to have some separation going on.

[@SwervingLemon]

Joel! If you ever plan on coming to SE WA - bring one of them - we'll make that print like a beast!

[@PLANCK_0]

Question is. Was they running the same mm/s. Or was the ender seven ran at 250 and prusa ran at 50

[@KarlandKristy]

I’m just going to throw this out there. I have owned all sorts of different 3-D printers from different companies. I’ve even built my own from scratch. It just so happens that every Ender series printer that I have owned had to be modified right out of the box. Whether it was some part that was bent straight out of the box, or like the Ender five where you have to build bed supports or it just won’t ever stay level, or printers that don’t include dual Z-screws so the gantry stays level……Whatever the problem may be these things are made for tinkers or inventors. You are always going to have to do something to an end or series printer if you want super quality.

[@pbshooter100]

Great story but it's probably just that, a story. My CR6SE worked perfect out of the box and I'm not alone in that experience.

[@rhadiem]

I'm never buying another Ender printer. They're cheap, my Ender 3 V2 is an endless tinkerers dream, but for someone who was quickly burned out from inconsistent prints and having to upgrade it to add bed leveling, better extruder, etc... I give up. I am with Joel and agree it's time we raise our expectations on what a printer will do in 2022. If you want a hobby, build a Voron. If you want a 3d printer to print things, get something better. I can't wait to see how the Prusa XL's "perfect first layer" system will work out, and hope it sets the minimally acceptable bar on 3D printing for 2023 and beyond.

[@gman9543]

So what's a good printer to be looking at, at that "premium" price level?

[@lasersandlayers]

Prusa mk3s+

[@shriterk8995]

Fun story, I was originally going to get an ender 7 when it came out, I placed my order but it didn’t feel quite right, so I was able to cancel my order and instead I ordered a prusa i3. And boy oh boy I do not regret it

[@jwar2163]

I want to get into 3D Printing, but don't know where to start and what unit to purchase. Hobby only but want a capable machine to maybe one day sale the things I make.

[@DoomwakeArt]

I have this printer and love it. There ARE issues with it. I've had issues with it printing tall-narrow prints, and it doesn't do a good job with printing finer details like my ender 3v2 or voxelab aquila. If I had to describe what finer details look like with this printer I'd describe it as a ghosting effect. Like looking at a double image. But printing large mechanical pieces works flawlessly. With that being said, I got this for $145 at a liquidation center and would not recommend anyone buy it for $700.

[@ryangamble5131]

Def a good base for upgrades at that bargain price