441 RSW A Custom Quilted Mandolin Part 2

[@rootvalue]

I love your enthusiasm and lightheartedness. It seems like you value the craft but don’t feel everything is “precious.” First video I’ve seen of yours and I look forward to my impending backlog binge! 🤣

[@davidjones6218]

Great watch Jerry, That's going to be a lovely piece of art.👏👏👏👍

[@48920jeff]

Awesome video. As a long retired luthier myself, I can’t tell you how much I enjoy watching your work!

[@leeoliphant9229]

I am spending way too much time watching you build and repair instruments but it is so darned interesting. My wife walks by and says, "Watching paint dry again?"

[@shaneharrison4775]

Golf a really great walk ruined by an evil little white ball. Fishing good but as you said make you thing you need to get back to doing what it is you do so well. And Jerry you do very well with instruments repairing and building them. And it shows how you love the work you do.

[@blkjckgtr3075]

Jerry beautiful work haist makes waste!that Mandolin is going to be awesome,Cheers

[@kimwilliford6303]

I love the way this mandeline is coming along.

[@cjwright1960]

I don’t know how I found this channel but man-ole-man am I glad I did, nothing I love more than watching a master luthier.

[@MrPJM22]

Very much enjoying following along on this build. Thank you!

[@frankmormon2503]

Hi Jerry, thanks for your videos,huge amounts of information so easily passed on by you. Thanks. I have a potential tip for your finger planes - take a cork, make a 1/2 wide slot punched into the end and fit it over the back of plane blade, it will be supported by the base of you hand like the plane you used for roughing

[@markushummel8042]

looking great Jerry​... 👍👍👍👍

[@bobl2995]

Great video Jerry the grain looks real nice on that wood

[@cwilczak8706]

Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! Are you done yet! LOL. Mighty fine.

[@toysbackzen]

You are an amazing artist. Thanks for sharing.

[@jeffgrier8488]

You can already tell how beautiful this mandolin is going to be!

[@RandySchartiger]

I wonder if people realize how much time and effort goes into work like this, and even moreso the thrill of when it's complete. great stuff Jerry!

[@jthonn]

Very true Randy, I am nothing like you guys, but it is gradifying to see the end product of your hard work, especially when you do an awesome job!

[@josephtaverna1287]

Hey Jerry great video you are the man this mandolin is going to be a show stopper

[@linusbewert8615]

fantastic work! i look forward to see it all done

[@ericashmusic8889]

Hi Jerry, nice work. Tip; A round thick leather cushion 10/12" dia- 1-1/2" thick, filled with soft fine sand, like silversmiths use, would greatly facilitate your carving any round backed or bowl instrument. Cheers.

[@toddbeeman5933]

Another wonderful upload for us Jerry! Sending peace & love from Springfield, MO -Todd

[@vaccarioou22]

can't wait - this is going to be beautiful when the staining brings out the wood grain. Love hearing the sound grow as you assemble it and the tonal character emerges :-)

[@63vetteman]

VERY NICE JOB DOC!!

[@nickbellinger1047]

where i come from no one does or ever has played the mandolin and you guys go off with them......awesome, thanks for the vid

[@davidmcausland4088]

That sure is one hell of a nice Mandolin, I can't wait to see how it all comes out after staining and finishing.

[@brucemalcolm3893]

cant wait to see the finished product

[@peterbryan3081]

I noticed that others have commented that the narrow, straight chisel was used upside down while the curved one was right side up. I agree that this would make quite a difference because the top edge of the narrow chisel acts as a fulcrum and allows you to pop the shavings off. I always find a challenge when using new tools. I have often discarded what should be an improvement and gone back to the tried and true older tool.

[@jipes]

I'm really amazed how smooth you work with your band saw A true master

[@tylersignlightingservice5136]

Hi Jerry, An idea on the Drill Sander. Just drill and tap a hole on one of the flats of the nut for a grub screw... if the nut needs to come off just file a small flat on the threaded rod for it to fit into. That will keep allow you to run it in any direction without fear of it flying apart. Anyways I enjoy viewing your channel.

[@oldskoolfool141]

The potential of that grain when finished makes this the most exciting Mando build yet, I've got full coverage on my interest now I just need to clamp down my enthusiasm lol

[@Michael2x]

I'm a wanting that mandolin already Rosameister!!!

[@neotoxo54]

RUBBER JAWED PLIERS...for squeezing the seal on your vacuum bag. Becoming addicted to watching you & Kalib work. 👍🏻👍🏻

[@willmorrison1022]

I was going to mention a squeeze clamp for that very purpose. Seems that would work pretty well.

[@daltonduncan7285]

Thank you for sharing that little tip about the block of wood and pen. That's genius.

[@andymoss3132]

Enjoyed it mr.jerry

[@wheelerdavea]

Love the harmonics in the tone of that top.

[@donaldholman9070]

Beautiful job

[@Hickeroar]

My hand cramped just watching that finger plane.

[@staleyexplores]

I truly appreciate how you continue to hone your craft even though you’re a master luthier and builder of all kinds of things.

[@steveparkes1]

How clever of you to use the plug on the peg head, as they say, "prevention is better than cure"!

[@azariahboling321]

If i ever come into some money i will commission a Rosa guitar with maple back and sides. Jerry you are a wonderful craftsman.

[@dwsnsgp]

I still do almost everything in thousands but can convert back and forth to millimeters pretty well in my head.

[@markmccornack7983]

Beutiful work! This is going to be lovely when it's all finished. I've never carved a mando, but I've built some archtop guitars, two of which had quilted maple sides and back. Yes! It's a bear to work, for all the reasons you sited, but the results can be stunning. One interesting thing about bookmatching on quilted that I've noticed though that's worth a mention. The "quilts" in the wood figure appear sort of like pillows (convex) or cups (concave). Sort of "innies" and "outies". When you join the halves together in a bookmatch, the "outies" on one side of the joint will have its mirror as an "innie" on the other. There is still lots of lovely figure there, but this imposes a sort of visual asymmetry that doesn't seem as pronounced with say a back with 1/4 sawn tiger stripe figure. Again, still gorgeous end result, but there is a slightly off asymmetry in the figure in the bookmatch. I'm looking forward to seeing your next installment on this mandolin!

[@scottarfin966]

Great point about engineering the top of the mandolin to NOT resonate at the pitch of any open string. Not only will it improve the sound, it will reduce feedback in live environments. I've worked sound for string bands and have had trouble with unmuted open strings sustaining infinitely.

[@toddsherfey3652]

Love her voice, got that bluegrass vibe. Beautiful. Is she doing the backup harmony?. Sounds great . that's going to be a beautiful instrument. God speed

[@stevstone40]

You could use a metal round washer to trace the contour the same way. My shop teacher in the 70's drilled a hole in a penny to do the same thing.

[@RosaStringWorks]

good tip might work even better

[@rrrosecarbinela]

I love how you're willing to try with new tools. And give them a reasonable chance to prove their worth!

[@joemsibert]

another great video🤩thanks for sharing

[@UToobSteak]

I don't even play a mandolin, but this interests the hell out of me.

[@darkomtobia]

This reminded me of something a friend of mine in Carthage, MO who builds fiddles told me. He said it would take him hundreds of hours to build a fiddle, but there'd always be someone asking what he had "for a hundred bucks". He said he'd tell them "well, I got a piece of wood over there..."

[@whythesadface]

G'day Jerry. A while ago I bought one of those dog leg chisels made by Two Cherries to do braces also. I discovered that they aren't curved at the business end but are in fact flat for the final 15mm or more. So they are just a flat chisel with an offset. I haven't been able to use them either and I was thinking of cutting off the final straight section or grinding the back to produce the curve needed, most likely a combination of these two methods. Good luck and as you found out a normal chisel up side down works better.

[@whythesadface]

Jerry I hope you see this! I decided to 'put my money where my mouth is' and reshape the back of my 10mm wide dog leg chisel. I started by curving the back on the 80G linishing belt to create the shape and moved to the stones for the final smoothing/sharpening. The chisel has improved way beyond yours and my initial testing, but it is limited to producing a concave cut no deeper than the curve in the back of the chisel blade. This appears to be more than enough for guitar braces and plenty for how I do my mandolin tone bars.

[@RosaStringWorks]

I'll probably just stick with the straight chisel. If it an't broke...

[@whythesadface]

I agree but your video inspired me and sometimes a man has to tinker. The chisel was useless as it was.

[@johneconomou246]

Great work,! Excessive talk!

[@The1queencollector]

An Electric guitar made in that wood in a natural colour would be beautiful.

[@stratdude83]

Jerry, don't press the plastic seal together on the vacuum bag. SLIDE it on over the inner rod from the end! I think it will be much easier that way!

[@RosaStringWorks]

The plastic is too sticky and the clamp is far too tight to slide.

[@DonAntonioCasanova]

Hello Jerry! Take a look at the Bourgeois Top Voicing Demonstration Video. He is holding the curved chisel the other way round and it look so, this is working fine for him.. but he has spend a lot more time with this kind of chisel. I love your videos. Greetings from Austria! Anton

[@RosaStringWorks]

If you turn it over it hits the curve hits the brace

[@jasonkerbs806]

May be hard to scrap but that grain is beautiful. Hope it's clear coated

[@timbeaton5045]

Re the multilaminate neck slippage issue... I think using some toothpicks through the layers into small locating holes might work to prevent slippage. You could drill small locating holes in the INSIDE of the outer pieces, and holes THROUGH the inner pieces so that they all line up perfectly before glueing up. Then as they are wood, they will be glued up inside the neck, invisible on the outside and would not affect the acoustics of the neck at all.

[@timbeaton5045]

PS learned some useful tricks here. That sanding attachment for the hand drill is a great idea. Will have to see if this, or something like it is available here in Europe. I am planning on building a 5 string electric violin, and there are several techniques here that will prove very useful for my ideas. I plan to make a "floating" laminate top, maybe with a 1 mm carbon fibre sandwich between wood veneers. The idea would be to make the top of the violin structurally strong enough on its own, without having to make a complete box structure as in a standard violin. Then use carbon fibre struts on the underside, much like your wooden ones, here. As it will have a bridge pickup, the acoustic properties of the top won't be as important as here, so much as structural strength. But I have tried some solid bodied electric violins, and this "compresses the sound, too much for my liking. So a halfway house compromise with a top that does have some resonance is the idea, but somewhere between the standard acoustic top and a solid instrument. Thanks for this series. learning a lot!

[@ErnieB]

@@timbeaton5045 Further to the slippage issue, Tim, there is a lot of waste area on that block, what with the neck, headstock and neck joint shaping. Just drill and dowel through areas you know are going to be cut off, after the glue has set. That also works when using ordinary clamps. Like clamping across the width of a table top, during glue-up. A beam on each side, clamped together, to stop the same type of slippage on a larger scale.

[@SongsHomestyle]

LOL at 32:30... "If I take a coffee break I have to be retrained".

[@greatnortherntroll6841]

You could simply put a jam-nut on the sander, and then it'll operate in either direction, Jerry.

[@colinricgmailcom]

I can't own up to that chisel!

[@Cheesemaster413]

I'm going to guess that reason the curved chisel felt wrong is that the center line of the force you apply to it is not quite perpendicular to the cutting edge no matter how sharp it is. You are absolutely right that in time you would probably get used to the vector angle, but why bother ? As always, thanks for the video Jerry !

[@timnell207]

Sander sent by Mr Dust. That’s pretty funny.

[@dmih6980]

I noticed with your narrow chisel the bevel is down, but with curved chisel the bevel is up by design. That could possibly effect the cutting efficiency.

[@TheVectorious]

I was thinking the same thing. Just armchair woodworking here.

[@valearl4693]

I get some of my best hand work done while fishing. Its peaceful and nobody's bugging you because that would scare the fish. I don't bait the hook. Don't want fish interrupting either. 🙂

[@garywhitt98]

I loved watching this one. It's going to be a beautiful mandolin. But how will it sound?

[@dannyjonze]

That chisel is probably most useful for poor access areas. Standard chisel may be easier out in the open.

[@davidstrother496]

It appears that the curved blade of the new chisel accentuates the rocking action of the top. It looks like the straight bladed chisel does not cause such additional rocking motion. I love the curly/quilted grain in the sides and back by the way, should be really beautiful when stained.

[@zapa1pnt]

Jerry, some electric wire pulling lube, spread inside the black tube, could help you squeeze it over the end of the plastic vacuum bag. It is water soluble, for easy clean up.

[@justinlareau2227]

Sprinkle some salt after putting glue down to help keep the pieces from sliding around when laminating pieces of wood together in a glue up.

[@LUCKYB.]

Jerry get your self a black Arkansas Stone that will give a razor edge .

[@RosaStringWorks]

That is an Arkansas stone

[@LUCKYB.]

I love quilted maple fire maple and curley tiger maple . But you have to sand sand sand ..my handles once I was there id sprits with water let the hairs come up and dry with a heat gun and sand some more .

[@RosaStringWorks]

I worked with curly Maple for 40 years and I've never had a problem with it like I have with this quilted Maple

[@rhettbickley9097]

From the forester. That pattern is a result of grain direction.

[@perihelion7798]

"Hurry up, ands screw up." That could be my motto. I have sympathy for anyone that has that issue.

[@davestambaugh7282]

The curved one has the cutting edge up side down according to the way you use your straight one.

[@Sp00kyBedHair]

Hurry Up & Screw Up would be your 2 middle names

[@larryfisher7056]

Wouldn't a thin jam nut work on that sander to keep it from unwinding?

[@mtadventures5006]

You need a leather sandbag for that chisel work.

[@lrstaf6]

Hi Jerry; Really enjoyed your video, as always. In a few years, there going to say Jerry Rosa used gause reinforcement inside of his Mandolin tops. You might try going back to archery for another hobby.

[@RosaStringWorks]

Would love to do that but the arthritis won't let me

[@mitchmatthews6713]

Jerry, the next time that you do some luthier work on camera, you need to wear a wizard hat like Merlin.

[@stevesuv]

PS ...Jerry you make my Covid Days.

[@L2FlyMN]

Worked with wood like that before, & it was frustrating to say the least. The only way to do it is to get it close to finished, then the actual finishing by sanding, & sanding....... Makes you want to add it to the firewood bin if not for how beautiful it is.

[@sewing1243]

F-holes: I watched the Canadian Luthier, Twoodford, take the back off a 1930's Martin Archtop acoustic guitar. Instead of a carved top Martin used a traditional Flattop guitar top and forced it into an arch with the bracing. I noticed that the F-holes in that guitar were not complete "F"s. I assume the reason for that is the top would have tried to go in every direction but the right way if they had cut complete "F"s into it.

[@perihelion7798]

toodfrd is a true craftsman. I always catch the latest from that channel. His style is the polar opposite of Jerry, and the path to completion is very different, but both guys are exceptional in the final product -- which is what really counts. Also, I don't think that toodfrd has a working, many-acre farm to keep going.

[@LUCKYB.]

You know why they are called F holes rite .and not its not cause its shaped like an F . A luther forcing that arch top you can here him 6 blocks radius .. $%=/ . $^_= $%=% .. lol

[@Cheesemaster413]

I also follow Ted Woodford and find his approach to guitar repair very refreshing but perhaps a bit more parochial than Jerry's. The video that was referred to here is available at kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGbWaJuVmpmDbdk

[@soundguyjimmy]

That was a really interesting episode.

[@jockwebb3435]

Saw that too interesting

[@proileri]

How about gluing a strip of veneer around the F-holes with hard glue? Would think white glue + gauze mutes the vibrations a tiny bit.

[@rontorrence]

I love the sound of the guitar and you did a good job on the song. I'd guess the repairs should cost $500 to $600. If money wasn't a factor it may cost a little more as you would feel more comfortable doing more.

[@zombeatle01]

you should list links to the music used in the fast-motion sections in the description!

[@1777DK]

I have never been able to get those Kirschen chisels to cut properly, I’ve given up on them. Don’t know what it is, but it feels like they aren’t properly hardened, or have been tempered too much. Bottom line is, I have the same experience as you, you think you got it sharp, but soon as you cut, they go dull.

[@hankcohen3419]

The curved chisel is bevel up whereas the straight is bevel down. Bevel down gives you more control.

[@jthonn]

Jerry, looks like you've done that a couple or 3 times before. LOL

[@donstelfox2936]

Have you considered using two nuts for your sander? You should be able to run it in both directions that way.

[@colinricgmailcom]

Squisit! as usual!!!

[@Maddogxi]

19:22 I straight up did a triple take "Did that man just break and immediately magick his glasses back together?"

[@patreilly1137]

Here I am wondering what tools I need to buy to build like this. I never built an instrument but damn I want to.

[@joshuaglaude1549]

I love that stone holder sharpening stone holder. Is that something you made, Jerry?

[@mrgrnjns1111]

Chisels .... Feels more comfortable because you are using the bevel on the other side. Cutting with the flat side makes the chisel dig in more where as the bevel allows you to come out of the cut.. If that makes sense......

[@RosaStringWorks]

You can't turn these over... if that makes sense.

[@LUCKYB.]

Jerry That sander attachment that nut that tightens it how are the threads. They tighten clock weise ? Get a thin or two thin nuts and thread them both on and use the back one as a lock nut . I had to do that do a few of my drum sanders . It works .

[@RosaStringWorks]

reverse works fine

[@LUCKYB.]

@@RosaStringWorks it was just a suguestion . I ment well .

[@mrfrontranger7911]

Hi, wondering if you have a good source for fine line veneers and thin wood,hard to find in Colorado 🤔

[@andyoke50]

Need more .........

[@edd2771]

Hi Jerry isn’t it more important what note the final assemble instrument makes, not just the top?

[@RosaStringWorks]

Of course it all matters. However as I've often said the top is 80% of your sound at least

[@zapa1pnt]

If the top does not resonate well, it will mute the sound of the assembled instrument.

[@edd2771]

Sorry I was not clear enough with my comment. I was thinking about not wanting the instrument to resonate on the same note as an open string. Even if the top does not, you won’t know the “final” note until the instrument is together, at which point Is there anything you could do about it if does end up on an open string note?

[@zapa1pnt]

@@edd2771 : Oh, OK. That's one I don't know about, yet.

[@lenkowalyshen9571]

was wondering , with the quilted maple , as per tone and sustain....and how would this stand up to the guitar you just built , if you used this to build a guitar with ...yes beautiful looking but would be interested to know your thoughts ......that guitar you built is pretty well TOPS from what I can tell watching............and what about using this quilted for a violin ???? in the end it is tone and sound sustain ........and as the instrument is played over years I have found makes a good instrument even better ..............thanks Jerry..............

[@RosaStringWorks]

In my opinion Maple is not the best choice for guitars it is better for mandolins and violins I have covered that in a prior shop talk

[@billstoner5559]

I noticed, Jerry, when you were using the new chisel you had bevel up, no choice really. But with the old one the bevel was down which is the way I would use it for this purpose. What’s your thoughts about the bevel up or down?

[@Carletdesiles]

two things strange : the bass brace should have been the lighter brace and the the treble one the stiffer. Both plates aren't a bit too thick ? because the arch produce a better resistance it should theoretically permit to be thinner than a flat top which is around 2-3 mm for spruce.

[@kevincozens6837]

What tune are you using for your ring tone on the phone? The box holding the whetstones looks old. Did you make that or was that something you bought (many?) years ago?

[@RosaStringWorks]

I made it in my recording studio From an Alison Krauss tune if I remember correctly