4th gen 4Runner Rear Caliper, Rotor & Brake Change

[@DKits73]

You stretched that little holder bar for the spring on the drum breaks when you forced the rotor disk off with the jack screws their is a hole in the disc that you can fish a slotted screwdriver through at 6 o’clock position to back the drum breaks off winding down the adjustment screw before removing the rotor

[@MeGoldSeeker]

Just wanted to post a FYI here....hopefully it won't be deleted so it helps others not the have the same issue you had The video posted shows exactly what happens when you don't back off the parking brake shoes before pulling the drum/rotor the issue you had was you correctly used the bolts to help pull off the drum/rotor....BUT by not backing off the parking brake shoes you had a hard time getting it off, if the shoes were backed off properly once any rust between the drum/rotor is broken free the drum/rotor should come off relatively easy...but as you noticed you had to keep using the bolts until it let loose of the parking brake shoes....when you say the spring retainer that secures the shoe came loose and was rubbing the back of the lugs....the retainer wasn't loose....what happened was by you forcing the drum/rotor off without backing off the parking brake shoes it pulled the brake shoe so hard it "straightened" the "pin" you showed (you claim it's the wrong pin, which it isn't) allowing the spring to push the spring retainer out far enough to rub against the back of the lugs/rotor. So basically you created more work for yourself that wasn't necessary because you failed to back off the shoes, I noticed you didn't show the pain in the butt it was to correct your mistake, it would of been nice if you had showed how difficult it is to replace that pin/spring and retainer with that axle flange in the way, it would stress how important it is to back off those shoes!!

[@MrPetrvershinin]

you are absolutely right AND IT WAS NECESSARY TO REMOVE THE PARKING SHOES FROM THE ROTOR, just use a screwdriver to move the tensioning mechanism from the top to the bottom

[@JesusChristson]

I’m here to learn how not to do it because something so obvious would happen to me but I use the foot brake daily hopefully when I change mines I have that engaged lol

[@phxamigo]

Use to use Akebono pads, but a lot of times they are more expensive than oem, I prefer oem, normally quieter and perform well.

[@Dev_242]

Where do you buy oem toyota parts at?

[@phxamigo]

I usually by them from camelback toyota lparts online, not super cheap, but decent prices@@Dev_242

[@HardscapePro]

What size of bolts you need to release or make the rotor to pop out

[@SlothKingGarage]

Not too sure, I usually have a few random bolts laying around. They might be M8x1.25 or M8x1.0

[@CharlesSneed-c3l]

@4:06 YOU DID NOT EXPLAIN WHAT THIS IS YOU'RE DOING. DAMN DUDE!!!!

[@SlothKingGarage]

I used a bolt to remove the rotor, since it was stuck.

[@CharlesSneed-c3l]

@@SlothKingGaragethank you. I got that. I appreciate your feedback.

[@MrPetrvershinin]

no bolts are needed: there are working holes on the rotor - the rotor must be turned vertically downwards with one of them COMBINED WITH THE RING ON THE MECHANISM FOR APPROACHING THE PARKING BRAKE SHOES TO THE ROTOR AND CONVERSE MAKE THIS DISTANCE GREATER. YOU TAKE A MEDIUM SIZE FLAT SCREWDRIVER AND TURN THE RING WITH THE SCREWDRIVER MOVEMENT UP TO DOWN, thereby squeezing the parking pads, that is, removing them from the rotor. After this, the rotor can be easily removed!!! BUT IF THE ROTOR IS A LITTLE STICK TO THE GUIDE, THEN IT IS ENOUGH TO HIT IT WITH A WOOD OR PLASTIC OR RUBBER HAMMER. ... WHEN the owner of the broadcast used bolts to remove the rotor - this is precisely what he created a problem with the friction of the parking mechanism springs ...

[@CharlesSneed-c3l]

@@MrPetrvershinin wrong. I loosened the ring mechanism and it still wouldn't budge. I had to use the bolts.

[@MrPetrvershinin]