4x5 Largeformat Photography | Long Exposure [ USING FOMA 400]

Tonight, I was trying to shoot some large format long exposures on fomapans foma 400 action film. I also wanted to try an old Fog Filter (Mist filter) to see how the effects on the highlights are on analog black and white film.
I really like the results, even though some of them were underexposed due to the fact, that foma 400 does not give you real 400 ASA.
www.buymeacoffee.com/RetroPixel Thank you :-)
Things i used:
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Fomapan Film: ebay.us/wx9ffE
Hama Fog Filter: ebay.us/qqDwIb
Wista Field 45: ebay.us/YsobSr
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[@cloudsilver1]

Great images! I agree, eventhough it is underexposed i still think it worked for the shot

[@RetroPixel_analog]

Thanks for your kind words. I do my best to also improove my "not portrait" photography. Greets.

[@spyratekodaks7494]

what meter did you use?

[@RetroPixel_analog]

I am using a Pentax spotmeter V. I wrote a small article about it here. retro-pixel.com/the-asahi-pentax-spotmeter-v-ansel-adams-trusted-tool/ i think it works like a charm.

[@lensman5762]

Unfortunately, Fomapan has very severe reciprocity failure rate. I am sure that you know about reciprocity failure which causes underexposure of negatives if nor corrected properly. The best emulsion to use for such photographs, was the now unavailable Fuji Acros 100. It didn't need reciprocity correction for up to 120 seconds of exposure and then only 1/2 stop up extra exposure for 120s to 1000s. The second best choice is a toss up between Tmax 400 and Ilford Delta 100, but they are no where near the Acros 100, RIP.

[@RetroPixel_analog]

Yah sure i know about reciprocity, i also wrote an article about it. I did compensate for it but it did not work as expected. The last image was the best of the four ones it also had the longest exposure time of all of them. I also had some good results using Ilford and Kodak in the past but since i have to save a bit on money i try to find my way using cheaper films. I will try this again, maybe using ADOX CHS 100II. Who knows. Sadly i never used Acros :-/ but no reciprocity failure up to 120s sounds extremely amazing. Thabns for your great input. ! Greets.

[@lensman5762]

@@RetroPixel_analog I think your best bet with regards to developer could either be a Pyro based developer or if funds allow , something like Diafine which usually increases true speed by at least one stop. If you print you negs, you may find Diafine Negs look pretty flat, but that is god send for scanning. I use Fomapan 100 and 200 quite a bit but I rate them at half box speed or even a bit less and develop them in either Pyro or Atomal 49.

[@RetroPixel_analog]

Heyy, thanks for your very interesting replay, I think i will give Atomal 49 a try since i have it here. I also usually rate Foma 100 at around 80. Diafine sounds interesting, Flat is not automatically something bad in the darkroom either. I can control the contrast later with Contrast Filters and have more details in the neg, just like a LOG profile on a digital camera. So that could be interesting to try out. Again Thanks a lot!

[@mayfell6092]

As far as I know many black and white film stocks have complicated reciprocity factors. For example Fomapan 400: [-1,25(log Tm)^2+5,75(log Tm)+1,5] As we know „Tc“ is the corrected time and „Tm“ is the measured time with our meter. And the value listed above is our P-factor (^P). Putting those into the equation Tc=Tm^P will give us a more or less accurate time. But due to inconsistency in the film itself the picture can be slightly over or under exposed.