5 Beginner Sewing Ultralight MYOG Tips I Wish I Knew

[@MattiasMoberg13]

I also liked the inexpensive fabrics tip, i just finished a ultra lite backpack prototype using 2 IKEA bags for fabric. It looks surprisingly good.

[@WillN2Go1]

I love this. Those things are what $1 each? Brilliant. We've probably all started writing journals on crap pads then bought a nice notebook and were afraid to write in it. And Ikea bags are also great in camp. You can pile you stuff into one, it's easier to sort through and you're not loading dirt, earwigs and rodents into your backpack in the morning.

[@jonathanfabian4973]

My sewing machine cover is from ikea bags. Was hard for me to use also still learning

[@fuzzylogics139]

Haha “just get started” is truly the best advise ❤️ I was just yesterday talking to myself again looking at courses that I can’t pay for right now “why? You have a sowing machine, fabric, thread, books, KZbin.. just start!”

[@cubgsan]

Good day to you. I am a senior rider on HONDA from Japan. Enjoying touring ,camping and video uploading. This is so nice video Awesome!! Thank you so much for sharing! Full supported ! Have a nice day my friend!!

[@RedPawPacks]

Thank you very much!

[@bearhugzfam649]

Why hello there! I've been sewing (clothes and such) for a long ass time but I'm just getting into MYOG so I was looking for tips on getting started with new materials (and thank you for that! This video has been great) but I thought maybe I could offer some tips in return from the other side of the sewing machine, I hope that's okay. Building on the first one about "just do it" - yep, that. But also get started on random bits of fabric like old jeans or a shirt (non-stretchy, so no tshirts) while you're getting used to your machine. It's so upsetting to get started with an expensive fabric only to destroy it because you haven't gotten used to your machine yet and can be where a lot of beginners start and end their journey because they don't want to waste more money. Remember as well that a lot of gear can be made from different materials, they just won't be as strong or super light or waterproof - there's nothing wrong with making a denim wallet before making a dynameen one or making a tent out of bedsheets for your kids to use as a fort indoors. Those binder clips are also known more specifically as sewing clips or quilter's clips, just in case y'all need to go hunting for them. If you see quilter's clips in a local craft store going cheap, yep, they're the same thing. They're handy because they'll hold multiple layers (think of how thick a quilt is) but they have the flat side to sit on the machine so they don't cause bunching. Not only do they not poke holes like pins do, but pins will cause bunching in a lot of fabric and the quilting clips really cut down on that so you get a smoother finish. Thread tension will sometimes be a bit different depending on the sewing machine foot and the fabric you're using so yeah, mess about with your random other fabrics, but I always recommend trying it on a little bit of your actual fabric before you start the whole project. Check out how things like bags and jeans are made by hand, remember that a lot of high fashion items are made by hand and are actually really good quality and don't be scared to look into how that's made. Ultimately a lot of it is all the same thing - people figuring out how to make things that don't look like ass that are as functional and long-lasting as possible. Flat felled seams for instance are the ones you normally see on your jeans, and learning how to shape a basic fabric handbag will really help with designing a backpack with good capacity and easy access. Learning to sew a zipper in different ways, learning different sorts of fastenings like how to attach straps and such, and learning different ways to reinforce joints of all forms (again, you'll usually find these in studying bags and sometime upholstery) are also really useful. Oh, also! Learn about different presser feet and different types of thread. Sometimes investing in silk thread (for the strength) is worth it, sometimes it's completely useless and you're just wasting money. Same with presser feet, most will be useless but some, like a walking foot for certain slippery fabrics and/or big stacks of fabric, oh man they make such a difference. Quilting skills are useful too btw, because there's a lot of advice in quilting about how to work with thick stacks of fabric, so if you're looking to make anything like sleep pads or insulation, that's where to go. Speaking of insulation, quilting has you covered there too, lots of talk about types of insulation and batting available.... Oh hey you got to the first point I made xD sorry for that. But yeah imma leave that there because it really is so important but also good sources of cheap fabric - charity shops/thrift stores and car boot/garage sales. I recommend not taking perfectly good clothes that others might actually need to, yk, buy and wear, but things like bedding and curtains, garments with stains, or items with not terribly comfy fabric, those are the things that tend not to sell anyways and they're all things we can use for practice and MYOG. There's also tonnes of "offcut fabric" options on ebay and while they do tend to be much smaller pieces, I firmly believe that learning to make useable fabric from scraps is a crucial survival skill, so if you lean more prepper/survivalist like me then that's a good option too. It might also be worth talking to your local charity shops about if they have any fabric items they feel unable to sell because of their state, if you tell them what you want them for they may be willing to sell them to you for cheap or give them to you so they don't have to pay to dispose of them. Also! You can turn carrier bags into a surprisingly strong sewable material you can use like tarp or leather, that's a great one for the more survivalist/eco friendly among us and it's a good practice for more expensive heavy weight materials if you ever get to that. Also last point but, learn to hand sew and learn how people work with leather. These aren't skills you'll necessarily use much but htey're great to fall back on especially if you do ever need to fix or make gear while you're on the trail or if SHTF. Learning basic alterations like how to take in pants, sew on a button, fix a rip, add a lining, and expand a garment that's too small, are all great tools to have at your disposal. Next level of this is learning to make fabric from scraps but I mentioned that already, still recommend it though.

[@stephenkoawl3453]

THANK YOU FOR TEACHING ME THIS ACRONYM! This is what I’ve been getting into and needed this

[@RedPawPacks]

Happy to help!

[@bradybunch84a]

Yes, I didn't know what MYOG stood for until this video. WOW. I am at that point where I want some bags for my ebike but I want to make my own stuff instead of just buying it off amazon but don't know where to start. I already have a sewing machine and have made a few things over the years but really don't know much about sewing. I just want to make a few simple bags but don't know where to start. Your video is my starting point and I am glad I accidently found you. Thanks for the tips. I hadn't really given any of those tips much thought. They sound pretty important.

[@lexischaub5298]

I'm so glad I found this... trying to get into backpacking but looking at the costs of the gear I just thought "am I crazy for wanting to make my own??" Had no idea it was actually a thing! Thanks so much!

[@RedPawPacks]

Glad this was helpful!! Thanks for watching!

[@dennisyoung4631]

“…and you can make what *you* need, not what the manufacturer thinks you *want.”* (and thinks you will pay for.)

[@Highlander.7]

excellent advice brother. much love

[@RedPawPacks]

Thank you! Hope it's helpful.

[@iiimke]

Great tips, thanks! Best tip: the first - just get started! I was thinking about (a looong time) sewing an insulated sleeve for my Nalgene-bottles. I planned and planned, considered if it was worth it instead of buying, and so on. Than after a recent hike where I needed such a sleeve for my small-sized nalgene-bottle (to bring tea, it was below freezing temps outside) I just collected some materials and started. As in: "Ok, if I sew these pieces together, it's just enough for the inside" "Oh that is some foam I can use as insulation if I fold it twice", just sewed it all nicely toegether. The top opening was difficult, but I managed to make a useable product in one sitting - and it actually looks and feels nice! I will definitely look more into your other videos as well :)

[@GriffithJones]

Great tips, love your work! You’re an inspiration to me

[@RedPawPacks]

Thank you very much! Appreciate it!

[@tullochgorum6323]

Another tip - learn about the different kinds of presser feet. They can make jobs like sewing a professional flat fell seam a lot easier.

[@ct026]

Thank you for the advice. 👍🏻👊🏻

[@RedPawPacks]

Thanks for watching!

[@jmash41]

Thanks for the video! You're exactly right about getting started. I borrowed a machine and made a sheet for my sleeping pad on day one. Where can I learn different seams and techniques? Thanks!

[@Gasp7000]

The Bernina sewing machine stores usually offer classes for their purchasers, showing them techniques plus how to use each sewing foot for things like rolled hems, etc., but those classes may be on youtube nowadays.

[@ellief4277]

Sir, why dont you blink? Love the vids :)

[@RedPawPacks]

Blinking is for the weak! LOL. Thank you!

[@nickcabrera3982]

He is blinking when you blink.

[@jonathangriffiths2499]

Now you mention it it is a bit uncanny watching this chap

[@fredhubbard7210]

I agree that you should just get sewing... But the cost can be prohibitive, and prototypes are inevitable... Two low cost options. Tyvek is a fantastic material for that. Especially to mimic stiff fabric. Also, thrift stores often have cheap material...

[@Stickit2daman]

Yes! Thrift store fabrics make great practice.

[@alehman91]

Great video man!

[@tacpunk7996]

Great tips! Just started, thanks for sharing. Picked up some kits from ripstop by the roll for practice pieces.

[@RedPawPacks]

Thank you for watching. Best of luck in your MYOG journey!

[@andersbodin1551]

my local fabric store sells some random thin polyester fabrics by the kilo, 20EURO a kilogram, and its really light, 50-70g per meter. Its probably not going to last. but it will make the first edition of my gear realy cheap and light. And it does not need to last since i will probably be re making it next year with better materials.

[@RedPawPacks]

Love to hear it. It's always a great idea to start on something cheaper for your first project or two. It makes the process less stressful!

[@elconquistador932]

Good plan.

[@globalmilitarycollections4591]

I haven’t started sewing yet but all my materials are on the way. I’m going to start out by copying an army issue magazine pouch. I have a vevor industrial sewing machine and it seams to use mil spec #69 bonded nylon thread just fine. I hope everything goes well

[@RedPawPacks]

Great to hear! Happy sewing and good luck!

[@Achielezz]

you lost the stare-down at 00:40 ;) just a small thing i noticed, your videos are incredibly well shot! really love your content as someone just starting MYOG

[@RedPawPacks]

Haha! Thanks for watching!

[@billb5732]

3:28 Which (seam) diagrams do you use for reference?

[@hubey]

Great tips thanks!

[@funkdrummer]

Step 6: lava lamp for sewing table. I'd like to see your follow up on what bad thread tension examples look like and possibly advice on how your thread tension should change given the materials you are working with. Thanks for these great tips!!

[@RedPawPacks]

Hahahaha, lava lamps are an essential tool. Noted, that's a great idea. Thank you!

[@CurseTheDarkness]

Thread tension without a doubt was the hardest obstacle for me. Check out this for more specific info: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpLbYYWKeNaMis0

[@dennisyoung4631]

A suitable sewing table, and a cutting table, too. Plan on upgrading *mine* in the foreseeable future.

[@Modern_Warrior_School]

I couldn't get the tension right for my first project, so sewed the whole thing by hand... After 2 weeks, I'm still not done yet. Still, I'm learning a ton about the technique from just jumping in.

[@RedPawPacks]

Hand sewing!? You're dedicated. There are some good resources on YT for getting tension right. In most cases of bad tension, rethreading your machine (according to the manual) and changing the needle can solve it. Once you make sure of proper threading, you'll really only need to adjust the top tensioner and the bobbin tensioner. Hope that helps!

[@Modern_Warrior_School]

@@RedPawPacks Thanks, for the advice. I had the machine working 3 years ago, but its been packed up since then. Now it seems the tension is way too high (enough to bend the needle if I pull the thread), and I have the tension know turned all the way down. But I'm trying to sew up a tactical daypack I designed a few years ago. Thanks to a folding aluminum frame I engineered, it can fold over the top of a rucksack for long patrols, then when detached, the frame locks into place allowing the main pack carrying sustainment gear to be dropped and the daypack can be brought to the objective with mission essentials inside. I plan on selling my design to a manufacturer, but need to be able to show the proof of concept.

[@bearhugzfam649]

@@Modern_Warrior_School did you ever work out what's up with the tension? If you have it turned right down and it's still crazy and bending the needle that sounds like it might be tangled up somewhere in the machine, if you never got back to it I suggest unthreading everything, clean the machine as best you can (make sure there's no storage lint and dust bunnies jamming things up) and then try again. If it's still all stuck and nasty try oiling up the thread and re-thread it, but don't thread the needle, just the machine, and then use that thread to pass the oil back and forth through the inner mechanisms. You'll be able to feel if it's getting snagged on anything at the same time. If that doesn't work, you may need to take it to be repaired.

[@wyregrasser7540]

Great video dude! Especially getting ready for my first project. A question to all. I have my tent frame designed out and set up. Are there in tips, hacks or tricks to making a pattern for my fabric sections that will "go over" the pole skeleton. My thoughts... bed sheets (i have old ones) , plastic wrap (outside box). Any comments will be appreciated. I am using sil-poly over alum 8.4 mm poles. I have looked at bunches of tents and called myself paying attention to how they are sewn but I was hoping for as much additional info before I get started.

[@Gasp7000]

Using plastic (or stretch wrap) over your whole structure should work, and you can use packing tape over that to help hold the shape. Then you draw on your seam locations, and label each section as far as what part if the tent it is, drawing straight-of-grain arrows, and labeling which end is a top seam, side, seam of floor seam; then cut the plastic wrap on the seam lines you drew (away from the frame on the drawn seams). That will leave you with the pattern sections. Next, add a seam allowance (with more plastic wrap, packing take or wide masking tape), measuring either a 1/2” or 3/4” onto the edges of the pieces before cutting so you don’t have too small of a finished project for the tent frames you made. Also, before cutting the plastic wrap off of the frame (and the wrap should be 4-5 layers thick so that it holds a stiff shape) mark some pattern piece “matching spots” onto your seams, for instance, draw a horizontal line from one pattern piece to the other, putting a letter “A” on one pattern piece and a letter “A” on the pattern piece next to it so that later when you go to assemble the parts, you can just match the like letters together. That helps you orient what part is what and what belongs where. Assembling it is about basic engineering. You don’t want to sew a section first that will block your access to sewing another part, so imagine your assembly steps. A basic tent is easier as far as that goes, than say, a pair of barefoot water shoes or clothing with zippers and a collar. Even though Silnylon is basically water proof, seams need to be treated with waterproofing again due to the needle puncturing, depending on your tension and needle-hole size when the fabric gets punched by the needle. There are seam sealers for that as well as double sided permanent washable seam tape for that but it needs to be something that adheres to the silicone in the naphtha-diluted silicone used to impregnate the fabric. RSTR may have sealant suggestions. If the seam is a “flat fell” or “french seam” as far as seam sewing styles, those two keep water out better than a plain single stitch line sewn. I just bought Silnylon so I’ll be research how those seams are sealed. If nothing else, I will be experimenting on scraps to create a seam sealant made out of naphtha-diluted silicone. There is at least one youtube video that offers the ratio amounts of silicone to naphtha. He demonstrates how to make your own waterproof tarp out of the regular cotton bedsheet. I don’t have the link on hand. I realize I’m finding this late in the game, But I am posting it for anyone else who may want an answer to the question you asked. Naturally, there are measuring ways to engineer a pattern, but wrapping a 3D object gives you a way to make flat pattern pieces by wrapping the object with several layers of plastic wrap, then covering that with packing tape, then marking and cutting your pattern off of the object in a manner that gives you flat section parts. Rounded sections may need splits called darts. But whatever you do, don’t wrap the plastic overly tight as that can make your pattern too small, and don’t forget to add the seam allowances to the sections or you’ll end up with a smaller final product. Again, labeling all parts for reassembly is wise because while it’s in one piece, you may think you know where all of the parts go until you get them all apart and you realize how many summersaults these sections can take while handling them, especially the slippery stuff. A traditional way to mark where seams are to match is with tiny V-cuts one the edges of the seams. For instance, on the plastic wrap pattern you wrote a “A” where two “A” spots need to come together, but you can’t write on all fabric. Witg Silnylon, you could snip s v-cut for matching “A”’s, snip two v-cuts for matching “B”’s, snip three v-cuts for matching two “C”’s, etc. You can also snip rectangular cuts (this shape: “[“ along where one or two if those need to match up. Silnylon may or may not accept permanent marker, I haven’t tested it, but if it does, that simplifies the seam matching. I use a fine point tip marker myself. Also, as a thought, if there are tent pole holes, those parts need s tight fit or rain flies. I hope this helps anyone seeking some ways to do this without complicated measurements.

[@laurenanderson5390]

do you have a video on getting tension right? Ive been messing around with it all morning and I just cant get it right! And next question: What is a good beginner fabric for a bike packing frame bag? I want it to be good enough fabric that it is useable but not xpac cause thats really difficult to sew!

[@toco1982]

I also think that adjusting the machine to the right tension is essential and I find that very difficult. Always have these big loops on the lower side of the fabric. :-( Would be great, if you could share your experiences on that with us. :-)

[@RedPawPacks]

Absolutely, tension adjustment is a never ending battle! I've found that when I have loops on the bottom of the fabric, something else has gone wrong. Usually the loops mean that the top thread has not been threaded correctly. Remove the thread and completely rethread it. Then try adjusting top tension again after doing a few test seams.

[@Gasp7000]

@@RedPawPacks I was sewing on an old (very old) Bernina machine where the metal thread holder that hops up and down on the upper outside of the machine (near your head) was worn down just enough to make the thread pop off the part. That caused tension problems as soon as it hopped off. I simply added a layer of tape where it was coming off and it stayed in place after that. Just pay attention to every threading step and make sure the top and bottom are clean of lint build-up or stuck thread parts underneath. Also, the wrong needle, a bent needle or a needle with a bur on it with cause thread skipping, etc. If the top thread is stuck on something, it will pull tight, leaving the bottom thread loose and loopy, and same vice versa. So just like a car, make sure all of the little ducks are in a row before sewing. Start with a scrap of medium weight woven* cotton (n🚫t knit*) for testing tension. Once you know you have cleaned and threaded everything right and your needle is not burred or bent, you hang on to both upper and lower threads at the beginning of a seam so the machine doesn’t suck it in and cause a not just because it wasn’t held-in other words, your hands hanging onto the pilot threads (which are about 5-6” long) until the new seam has a few stitches in place is part of the tension story, your hands give the starting tension for 3-4 stitches, and then you should be able to let the threads go as you sew down the rest of the seam. Stitch-skipping often means a thread isn’t being picked up by the other, which can mean several things, but like a car problem if you check the easiest things first, like the fuses, that might fix the problem. In the case of crazy stitch skipping once. I checked the machine over and over for an hour, when it turned out that I only needed to change the needle type to match the fabric type. I should have known better to check a needle chart. I changed the needle and no more problems. Once you know you have done everything, now it’s time to sew the cotton scrap about 5” and check stitch tightness on both sides. On my machines, a screw on the bobbin case can tighten and loosen tension as needed, or a dial in top of the machine can be adjusted for the top thread. Use LONG stitches only for this process because it is easier to tell if your machine is gathering a top or bottom thread easier. Don’t be intimidated or overwhelmed, practice and repetition at this will leave you a pro at checking your tension, and great tension is worth the thrill of the machine sewing well. Once you get your cotton scrap sewn smoothly, choose a lighter weight woven fabric and appropriate needle to try sewing a smooth seam. Don’t start right at the edge because fine fabric can easily get pulled into the feed-dogs and make a snaggy knot underneath. Hang onto the end threads and start slowly. On this, you can make the stitch length a bit shorter. A piece of chiffon, for example, is a very challenging fabric to test, and not that easy to sew because it shifts a lot if sewn on the diagonal bias. However, if you sew it on the straight of the grain, it helps. The reason for testing on a scrap like this is if you can get the tension to cooperate on that-and it is a bit of a loose weave, then it should behave on the nylon .7 oz. Membrane light fabric that RSBR sells without a problem. Once the longer stitch length no longer gathers more on one side than the other, you can shorten the stitch and start sewing on almost anything, and lightweight knits should then work well, too, but be prepared with all needle types on hand for sewing your different fabrics (and never use a damaged or overly worn needle). Once you’ve gotten the tension right, the rest of the fun can begin, providing you have oiled your machine. If none of these things work, it might be worth having it looked at and it would be a good investment if you know you have a good machine otherwise. A professional can also giving you pointers. Hope this helps anyone seeking help.

[@CroakerOutdoors]

Appreciate the tips. Caught the bug recently wanting to put together some Alpha Direct clothes. Is it still worth starting with a cheaper fabric for a simple shirt? I'm set with packs. What cheap fabric would you recommend for clothing?

[@RedPawPacks]

For practicing garments like an Alpha Direct hoody, you can use the cheapest fleece available at your local fabric store. I've gotten fleece at JoAnn for $1/yd before. Otherwise cheap cotton fabric makes a great practice material

[@CroakerOutdoors]

@@RedPawPacks Appreciate the help! How is muslin for a mock up fabric? less than 70 cents a yard sounds great

[@RedPawPacks]

It's nice to imitate the stretch of the finished project fabric when doing the practice. Muslin fabric is pretty popular for mock-ups for clothes. Similar to how people use Tyvek for prototyping packs@@CroakerOutdoors

[@bearhugzfam649]

@@CroakerOutdoors you might not need the advice anymore but basically you want a fabric that's about the same stretch and thickness as the one you'll end up using. If you've already done it, how did it turn out?

[@johnschmitt3083]

Hi Matt, great Video. I want to adjust my old day backpack with some side, under and straps pocket and ordered some lycra mash for that. But how do i sew it on the backpack? I assume i can't just sew on the lycra mesh without anything else or it will tear?

[@RedPawPacks]

Depends on how your current backpack is made, but you may find it easier to make external pockets with the lycra mesh and secure them to the backpack with cordage, grosgrain or shock cord. If you do sew the lycra directly on, definitely sew through minimum two layers to make sure it does not tear and will last longer. Hope that helps a bit. Cheers!

[@Ureyeuh]

I'd love to hear your suggestions for affordable sewing machines. Ones that are used for heavier/thicker fabrics and ones that aren't.

[@RedPawPacks]

I've used the Singer Heavy Duty sewing machine pretty extensively and recommend that one. It's not ideal for thick fabric stacks, but no home machine truly is. If you're okay with hand cranking the wheel for very thick stacks, then the Singer HD will do everything else you need it to

[@Ureyeuh]

@@RedPawPacks Could you give an example of a "thick fabric stacks"? Thanks for the feedback man, I appreciate it.

[@RedPawPacks]

@@Ureyeuh To me a thick fabric stack is when I'm making something like a shoulder strap for a pack. Pack fabric > CCF foam > 3D Spacer mesh > nylon webbing. That's about the maximum amount of fabric that will stack at once for a pack project, for me

[@zakafx]

what are cheaper materials you would recommend for getting into making backpacking gear? Been thinking about making my own stuff but I don't sew currently. I had the approach already of "not buying expensive material first" as I dont want to waste money on good fabric for all of the mistakes that I know I will make. I'd like to feel comfortable with a machine and know how to do some simple stuff before committing to higher quality fabric (like DCF).

[@RedPawPacks]

For your first starter fabrics, on the super low budget end of things, you can use an old bedsheet or tarp. Thrift stores or FB marketplace and good places to score cheap stuff for projects. If you're willing to spend a little more and have a great inexpensive textile, HyperD300 from Ripstopbytheroll is fantastic.

[@garylee1010]

great vid

[@RedPawPacks]

Thank you for watching!!

[@kellylybbert8677]

Baby powder! Coated fabrics want to stick to the machine deck causing bunching seams. Add a little baby powder to the coated side lets it glide through the machine

[@RedPawPacks]

Interesting tip! Thanks for the insight

[@TGxANAHEiiMx]

"It's a bunch of mumbo jumbo" Agreed

[@elconquistador932]

I'm practicing w leftover fabrics and canvas that came with the sailboat that we live on. I'm not buying any cool looking camo, webbing or Cordura until my projects look better than something a caveman sewed together with a stick and some animal guts.

[@vals6004]

Hey Just found this video. Thanks for the good tipps. I want to buy a second hand pfaff332 machine. Can you recommend?

[@kristinejohnson4309]

Learn to hand sew. No power means no machine.

[@jerbear7952]

You can learn both

[@kristinejohnson4309]

@@jerbear7952 true