5 More Hacks To Make Your Bike Even Faster

[@gcntech]

Have you got any other suggestions to make your bike faster? Let us know in the comments. 👇

[@GT-cx8vd]

To get faster, harden the f@ck up and grow some serious legs. Rule no5

[@jackhammer40k_]

paint it red

[@CrazyBikerGuy]

Make a video on trip strips

[@CrazyBikerGuy]

Clothing and helmet choice, tyres, rims, handlebar angle (not stem) etc.

[@bigring6424]

Dropping it off a cliff is the cheapest, but there are higher end alternatives. Surprised you didn't mention bearings. hambini kind of dismissed ceramic, but for real cheap you can replace two rubber seals with non contact labyrinth seals. It would be nice to have some data on it though. lube. You've covered wax, but different drip lubes have a couple of watts of difference in tests. Bigger tires and lower pressure on real roads. A more forward seat position allows more power. Aero bars work too obviously if suitable. As mentioned above, buying clothes a size smaller costs nothing.

[@johndam1677]

Put flame stickers onto your bike

[@livefreeandshred9818]

+200 watts

[@stuartdryer1352]

And little pink frilly things hanging off your bar plugs.

[@boomerangfreak]

Before you do gotta paint it red and put a playing card between your spokes!

[@gcntech]

At least.

[@happydays8171]

Oh,... That's funny. When I was into hot rodding cars, my friends would always joke that flames gives you 10 more horsepower.

[@acceptablecarrot173]

I've had amazing speed improvement since I started training regularly.

[@Od1nsBeard]

Who would have thought?

[@Keyboardbeatz]

I managed to save 1000watts since I added a motor

[@jbirdperez6003]

haha

[@QuinnTube2]

Save or add 1000 watts?

[@alexandremouton7169]

Motor Speed buff 100% when activated 20% weight increase wallet weight decrease to 0 save 100 grams of weight Rare item

[@soumyajeetbiswas2023]

Stupid but funny!

[@arnonym7941]

Nice job!

[@DKMediaTV]

If GCN gives me anymore hacks to make my bike faster I'm gonna blast off into space.

[@gcntech]

🚀🚀🌚

[@peterchopelas8907]

It is little known, but means of tripping the boundary layer (via "trip strips") were actually used in 1982 by the US Olympic cyclists. I was an engineer on the team that developed the first of the aero bikes used by the US team for the '82 Olympics, under Dr. Chester Kyles. Rules were different back than, and it was not such an obvious bit of tech, so likely no one knew what we were up to back than. Wind tunnel tests confirmed measurable reduced drag over ordinary looking typical frame, component, and helmet shapes with the addition of a trip strip. Your description was not quite accurate BTW, though granted it is a complex fluid mechanical process that is not easy to intuitively understand. It does not reduce turbulence, but actually increases it slightly. It has been found experimentally that within certain narrow Rynold's number ranges if you slightly increase turbulence on the surface, the net drag actually goes down. The Rynold's number is a measure of a kind of "turbulence" rating. It does not work at all speeds or with all areo shapes, but if you are trying to reduce drag within that particular Rynold's number range, it does work. Bicycles (and golf balls) just happen to operate right within that special range.

[@almatyastana11]

Olympic games in 1982?

[@SW-qr8qe]

Didn’t expect to hear Reynolds number mentioned on a GCN comment! Go Ozzy Reynolds!

[@aarondavis7391]

Nifty!

[@DBFIU]

Yep Reynolds number. You try to keep the flow attached for as long as possible. Avoiding separation will reduce drag.

[@dperreno]

Also, trip strips would be most effective for round tubes - and probably wouldn't result in a measurable reduction in drag on shaped tubing as used on most aero bikes.

[@LUCYDIAMONDBOXER1]

Celotape your eyebrows for maximum slip stream efficiency, saving, 0.0006watts. 60watts for a mono brow.

[@prestachuck2867]

There is a guy I used to see at races who shaved his eyebrows because he thought it was more aero. LMAO

[@LUCYDIAMONDBOXER1]

Presta chuck I'm not surprised ha. Aero tactics can be taken a little too far by some weight weenies and triathletes I ride with.

[@tabl10s]

Wouldn't you be faster if your eyes were 🔐?

[@speedsac]

Pirates used duel eye patches to walk the plank faster. Ask me how about other exciting tips to speed your athletic cycling adventures. As in eliminate rolling resistance on steep down hills by leaving the road surface completely. Yes now you can to!.

[@billbergen9169]

@@speedsac LOL

[@chrisrichardson3738]

Only ride downhill.

[@ogralphhh8836]

How

[@prestachuck2867]

Mount a playing card to the seat stay with a clothes pin. Angle the card so that one edge just touches the spokes of your back wheel. Attach a sticker which reads “turbo” to the seat stay just above or below the point where the clothes pin is mounted. The sticker is a vital component. Without the sticker, you will not experience the same amount of boost.

[@haxhxm841]

5 EASY STEPS 1.go online 2.go to a bike brand's e-commerce shop 3.look and compare with other brand 4.choose a bike 5. Finally realise you don't have the money and vent the anger while on a ride with your current bike.

[@Numeriwar]

Haha so true

[@bansheemaczero1715]

How's that making you go faster?

[@livininchains4788]

And shave your legs to make you more aero

[@livininchains4788]

And clean your cheap shit bike for the first time and polish it to its bones to make it more aero

[@lizaldelexnadela3969]

🤣🤣🤣

[@solarfunction1847]

@ GCN Tech During the 80's in NSW Australia when I used to race 40km in 42mins (57.14 km/hr avg) in A Grade road races & 1km in 52 seconds (69.23 km/hr avg) in A Grade cement velodrome track races which I'm not sure if current races are much faster but who knows. My road bike was a Reynold's 531 frame that I asked the shop to tell the builder to make it so that the front tire would sit around 1cm away from the frame & to use forks that you would use on a track bike that were extremely responsive instead of the larger raked forks of road bikes. I had one of the first Aero Reynolds 731 frames for my track bike, both bikes were laced with 32 spokes, tubular rims, stick on singles tires brand name Clement 12's for road, Clement 9's for track. Both bikes I could lift with my pinky finger, very light, 44T-54T to 21T-11T Durrace AX gearing for the road, I think I rode a 93 inch gear for the track bike with Campag hubs. But none of these things were the reason for high speed in races & I think most people out there have lost this knowledge so I will pass along some tricks that no one really has tried much. When you build up Muscle Mass or Bulk up then your muscles are not as flexible as you need them for High Cadence so what everyone does is have a balance, well this is wrong to do, you need to bulk up but do Martial Arts stretching exercises which allow you to also do a standing splits with your bulky legs. You also need to trick your mind also because when you use a lightweight training bike your mind & body becomes lazy & will only allow you to push yourself to what you believe you can do. To do this you need to either train with a much heavier bike up mountains in 52T-13T gearing or put leg weights around your ankles & also do the high gears in the mountains going very slow off the saddle. When you are training on a weighted bike & legs then swap them for your racing bike it will be like you are pushing nothing every time. The extremely high gear you trained on will help with sprints, high cadence & low speed for 80km - 160km will help with your endurance in long road races at the front of the pack. I lost my chance at the 84 Olympics due to a hit & run accident which broke my back so it basically wrecked any future of cycling.

[@jonathanbrown2485]

If I hear someone complaining about not having the most expensive and lightest tech and that they can’t climb, I say something along the lines of “Go ride and actually get some muscle instead of wasting time.” I reckon if your bike isn’t the lightest you’ll just get stronger. I have an aluminium gravel bike that I ride everywhere, it’s not super light but it gets me up hills and I know if I get on a road bike I’ll be faster lol

[@solarfunction1847]

When I was racing back in the dim dark years ago in the 80's, I used to only take out my triple butted chrome moly frame on race days, every other day i would train using a steel frame 10 speed bike & even take it up the mountains of the great dividing range in NSW, Australia. I can't imagine any rider these days riding a steel frame bike anywhere.

[@alexamparo817]

take off your brakes and cables, more aero, lighter and you’ll never stop!

[@davidmoreno790]

Jajajajja. Lol.

[@aarondavis7391]

Untill the unexpectedly instant stop at the end of the ride...

[@billbergen9169]

On a BMX you can actually stop faster without brakes. Why a big bike anyways? Just mod a BMX for racing and smoke everybody around the track.

[@Mmpeaceofcandy]

Trip strips are actually there to trigger turbulance, not prevent it as commonly thought. They work by starting up the turbulent flow early on which in turn reduces friction by breaking up the boundary layer of air closest to the surface of the frame and therefore reducing drag.

[@kiva7296]

Mmpeaceofcandy May be its more clear like that: trip strips trigger laminar to turbulent boundary layer transition earlier. Turbulent boundary layers are more energetic and they tend to resist flow seperation. Due to reduced separation and wake region around the bike, drag is reduced. This is happening even though turbulent boundary layers have more friction in it. Try to have a more streamlined position on the bike 😃

[@speedsac]

Seems a shame as you plunge off a cliff straddled bike buttock clenched speeding up your decent into the nether regions.

[@NewPolishScientist]

Put bike on car roof, and you can do 70 mph in uk on motorway.

[@jbirdperez6003]

hahahah

[@happydays8171]

Wrong bloke. England mate is on the metric system, that would be 105 kmph.

[@singingitman]

Happy Days, the rest of Europe is metric, UK is still imperial when it comes to speed. Fuel though is done in litres.

[@henrybikeman]

Uk isn't Europe. Soooooo true!

[@MicroageHD]

@@happydays8171 70 mph is 112 km/h

[@EatMyPropwash]

Hey now.... easy on us triathletes. I like my socks below the ankle, 1x setup, and peeing on myself during our 6hr ride in my tri suit. 😂

[@t0k1d0k1]

Let a pro ride your bike! That will definitely make it faster ;)

[@liambarber9036]

Taping up holes on my bike. For example, where you screw your pedals into your crank, it isn't exactly flush. Saves about 1 watt.

[@gcntech]

👌😂

[@SaitekFreak999]

Geek knowledge: Trip strips actually don't decrease turbulence, they increase it. Laminar airflow has a tendency to detach from the frame tube much sooner than turbulent flow, which causes higher air resistance due to a lower pressure behind the tube. So you actually try to increase the "bad" turbulent flow because in this special situation, it is better than laminar flow.

[@mikefule]

Fixed gear or single speed: single sprocket, single chain ring, no derailleurs, or gear cables or levers, needs a shorter chain (= a big weight saving) and guarantees a straight chain line. Of course, there are pros and cons.

[@woshigepro2]

Can you do a test on the string and sticky tape? Looks interesting. 4% is a lot, wonder if you can replicate a positive result from doing this yourself.

[@janikafe1544]

#AskGCNTech

[@bigring6424]

Jon joked that this will make you 4% faster but that's not what the stat means. It means 4% less power for the same speed. For the same power, that's probably about 1.5% or so faster. Unfortunately, doubling your power does not double your speed.

[@benwalters4484]

@@JR-yu5tf Nope, it would reduce the drag of the frame by 4%, I'd have thought. Our bodies are the cause of 80-90% of drag (with some other for RR), so you'd only save a watt.

[@backyardmachinist]

You could also blood dope

[@HeathyRoidz]

Marcos Fredrickson not free

[@josephdoby6411]

Hi Lance...

[@simonm1447]

Just train and live in the Himalaya region (air pressure 500 to 700 mbar), and impress your friends at short trips to your former home, better than blood doping

[@mr_mw]

Trip strips increases turbulence, which increases aerodynamic skin friction but lower the pressure drag.

[@ChrisAcheson]

However, smaller width cramped handlebars closes your chest and lung capacity, so may end up costing 10 watts or more.

[@pilotofjet]

Trip strips actually doesnt work like dimples on a golf ball, they allow to control where the boundary layer separates from the surface. They're a bit comparable to deflector placed on cars at the rear (like on the recent Land Rovers). I should add that Jon placed them on the right tubes but not at optimal places, the frame is already very aerodynamic and probably doesnt need trip strips. However it would work much better on frames with round tubes if you place them correctly. PS : I did my final year research project on analysing aerodynamically where to place a deflector on a cylindrical body.

[@joedagger8190]

Which tubes and how far around the tube should I place these to optimise my round tubed steel bike. Also what thickness string is best with respect to the tube width ?

[@lucianoserafino5872]

Attach a hockey card to your front fork so that it hits the spokes and makes your bike sound like a motorcycle. This will create that mental feeling that you are riding as fast as a motorbike and in turn, you will ride faster.

[@brendanneufeld1111]

LOL I used to that as a kid

[@nefariousstylo9943]

The chainline hack seems to work with single speeds and fixed gears, and being as it's the sensation that made me switch to single speeds I do believe it's a signifigant difference on the road. Maybe not something you can quantify on paper but I do think it makes a massive difference to the riders perspective.

[@jamesmonzon4758]

Bryce Dueck Makes sense. By switching to a more efficient gear ratio in terms of chain alignment and “feel”, keeping a good tempo should be more comfortable. And comfort is key. You won’t keep to a certain wattage or cadence if it feels awkward to you.

[@bigring6424]

You certainly can quantify it: www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/friction-facts-free-speed-from-proper-shifting-44016/ And it's about 2.5Watts, which will mean you go about 0.4% faster, but most of that is not from cross chaining but from using the 11t cog. The big big cross chain combination only loses about 0.75watts. If that's a massive difference to your perspective then great, but for actually winning races or just getting around effectively, gears are MUCH better. And obviously for going downhill fast, the drag of a freewheel is much less than the wind drag of holding your feet up in the air, never mind the drag in chainring and bottom bracket while your pedals fly around at 200 rpm. Fixed is for fashion, not for cycling.

[@acousticgearhead7820]

Yes, ruin your position and comfort to save 50W while loosing 100W because you can't put your max power out anymore. Instead of stupidly narrow handlebars, try tribars where allowed. Alot faster and definitely more comfortable. And if you actually need to corner you can still resort to nice wide handlebars. Another option to the dinnerplate-chainrings. Maybe consider using appropriate gearing for your body instead of imitating the pros and ruining your knees. Try building a custom cassette with a larger smallest sprocket. I run a 13-36 cassette with a 48-32 on the front for gravel. Switch to 50-34 or even 52-36 and you got decent gearing for mostly everything if you are not at the high-performance end of the sport. Larger sprockets at the back also have a higher impact on efficiency than on the front because the percentual difference in "wrap-radius" is a lot higher. I appreciate these videos for showing literally EVERY option you have, but PLEASE atleast point out the drawbacks as well. There is more than enough misinformation in the world today...

[@dooglasii753]

1. Its a change in position over time while you adapt to it. 2. Aerobars? You mean those things that cause more crashes in groups then dogs in opening stages of le tour? Yeah I'll pass

[@Schradermusic]

I just saw a very old bike with mudguards, rack and time-trial-type bars. Looked quite funny to be honest.

[@stuartdryer1352]

Clearly some suggestions he's making are for entertainment value.

[@acousticgearhead7820]

@@stuartdryer1352 That isn't lost on me, but there are people who won't realise that, newcomers to the sport for example. And they might actually take these on face value... Schrader I thought it's about speed here, not vanity? Look at the riders of the Transcontinental or the Silk Road Mountain Race. Don't just assume that someone using those items isn't an athlete that might want to go that little bit faster or wants to offset some necessary sacrifices. Doug Thorpe 1. lowering your stem, yes, extremely narrow handlebars, no. You mess with the way the bike steers and will eventually get your elbows in the way of your knees. Once you start flaring out your elbows to negate that, why even bother. On top of that you start inhibiting your breathing because you literally close down your chest, lowering your potential power output. All of these can work as long as you stay within reason. 2. Handle them with some common sense and there won't be crashes. There are good reasons for them to be banned in a lot of events. Mostly ones where you ride in groups. Don't be on them when you come across a public intersection. Don't use them where you might have to brake unexpectedly (e.g. group rides(where the aerodynamic advantage of riding behind another rider outweighs any of this by far anyways)). I thought that was a basic premise. Guess I was wrong...

[@bigring6424]

Which is why the word optimization exists. The best solution will not be at your highest power output. It will be at the point where the drop in power output per mm is equal to the reduction in wind power. Above that point the wind gains will be higher than the power losses. However this is also why you should move your seat and bars forward. You can get a more open position for the same aero profile.

[@michaellynn9763]

“Remember the days” (I sound like an old man - I’m only 28 lol) when you used to tell your dad that it’s a fast bike, and he’d say “it’s only as fast as your legs”! My suggestion: pedal harder!! The physical weight of the bike (including heavier aero wheels) doesn’t have an impact on flats and aerodynamic efficiencies are only achieved at higher speeds, which in Beijing in absolutely impossible btw!! I can definitely notice the gains in a slammed poison (simply by maintaining your cadence and observing how your speed changes relative to your position) but is not something I can take advantage of very often due to where I live. Initially, I was skeptical; however, it’s surprisingly comfortable!

[@garthly]

I put Conti 4000s on my bike and got new PRs all over the place. Feels so easy. Never realized how much my commuter Randonneurs were slowing me down. Looking fwd to the 5000s.

[@aslap4you882]

Weight saving by selling one of your kidney. I feel quicker and imbalance tho

[@therealcaldini]

And other bits - do you need a spleen, appendix, all three lobes of your liver, tongue, little fingers, etc? Toes too - they just get cold in winter. Why not remove them? 🤣

[@happydays8171]

Lance removed a testicle. But I think that added to his getting banned for life.

[@ChrisAcheson]

However, smaller width cramped handlebars closes your chest and affects lung capacity, consequently may end up costing 10 watts or more.

[@michaelfowell223]

I have a sure fire hack for going faster on your bike, simply ride your bike often, get out of breath now and again, it works wonders, and it doesn't matter if you ride a pig iron tank of a bike or a fairy light full carbon uber bike, either way you have to pedal them.👍😊🚴

[@lunatiy]

upgrade form double front to single, hahahah, i'm still running triple front for the climbs, made me lol

[@tarrant1196]

try deeper drop longer reach handlebars, and then add Scott Rakes to them. You can get as narrow as maybe 20 centimeters or so.

[@iivv_nn]

Narrow handlebars hurt my shoulders. I tied 40 cm 3t which are 38 at the hoods. Chose the 42s instead

[@andrewhayward2454]

If my memory is correct, David Miller's chain fell off during the prologue of 2003 TDF 500 m before the finish and his hopes of winning the stage along with it. His legs were not the problem. The absence of his front derailleur was. On the basis of that outcome alone, my front derailleur will stay exactly where it is- on my bike. The marginal and imagined gains for Miller were costly.

[@henryhart2722]

Trip strips do not act to reduce turbulence. They accelerate the transition from laminar to turbulent flow at supercritical Reynolds numbers. Since a turbulent boundary layer has a distinctly different profile to the typical Blasius laminar boundary layer, adverse pressure gradients in the flow occur at a later stage in the flow and so flow separation is delayed. This means that the wake angle is smaller and hence rear pressure is reduced less, resulting in lower drag.

[@mohr41]

“Faster” can be achieved (imho) by reducing drag and increasing efficiency - and “faster” when applied to all aspects of riding such as TT, climbing, descending - can mean different things. The reality is most of us need to just lose a few pounds of body fat! But related to efficiency - I’ve been looking into crank-arm length based on the riders leg-length - I’m 5’6” and the data I’m getting back is estimating a crank-arm if 145 to 150 mm. Just something to add to the discussion - love the thread!

[@craigpaterson5085]

The big big efficiency savings can also be gained through using a 16-27 youth racing cassette, with bigger rings at the front - only problem is you miss an easy climbing gear

[@bigring6424]

even an 11-23 has ratio of highest to lowest of 2.1. A 16-27 has a ratio of 1.7. Yes, you're missing a pretty big chunk of range there. a 60/16 at 105 rpm gets you to 48km/hr so you might not beat the hour record, let alone 40km TT record with that gearing. For most of us though it would be enough. Shimano does sell a 14-28 too though.

[@jdubvdub]

Just switch to a recumbent like I did. I pass diamond frames like they’re sitting still.

[@jbirdperez6003]

thanks ! ! ! i made all those up grades and was in a bad neighborhood and was chase by bike thugs who fired shots at me "i counted two shots, definitely. One when the bullet passed me, and the other when i passed the bullets! " thanks for the tips it really help my speed !

[@injesusname3732]

This will work for mostly taller riders. Get an 80t Chainring/12-16t cog with a 200-220 mm crankarm.

[@MicroageHD]

How does that help, lul

[@injesusname3732]

@@MicroageHD it means you ultimately have the potential to be faster than someone with, 50/11 and 175mm crank. Ex: to hit 64 kph with a 50/11, you need a cadence of 111. To hit 64 kph with a 80-11, you only need 70 cadence. the longer crank increases torque force; decreases your watts, and since you're pushing a big gear, cadence isn't as big of a factor. this is especially true for downhill. you'd spin out at 60 kph with a 50/11. with an 80-11, you'd be hitting 70-80 kph

[@saltashsailingclub9022]

Phil here.Penny and I have just got into cycling following retirement in our mid 60's. We have since modified my merida road bike and Penny's Boardman flatbar Comp fi with easier cassettes to tackle the hills of Cornwall etc. Some advice is needed on making the 2 chain ring derailluer, type Microshift, easier to operate on the Boardman. The spring is very heavy. The cable for the Sram x5 shifter has been changed and adjusted to make the movement easier but still not enough. Any ideas on mods to the derailluer or changes? Phil

[@47f0]

I ride my Raleigh DL1 a lot. Makes my road bike so much faster.

[@alphacentauri7381]

I was thinking reducing drag by dressing right, certain material that glides (not drags) through wind like a hot knife through butter.

[@ridein]

Converting to a 1X setup would conflict with the prevention of cross-chaining in general.

[@oreocarlton3343]

Are colours that arent black red and white UCI legal?

[@Schradermusic]

Green and yellow.

[@manas.d_]

Would buying an aero handlebar make the bike considerably faster ? Not the TT bike aero bars but the ones that Canyon make

[@LoeVG]

You'll save 0.1% watt. It's easier to lose some fat or skip the english breakfast before your ride..

[@stuartdryer1352]

Not aero but goid compact bars (FSA Omega) made me faster because now I can ride in the drops for hours at a time comfortably. They do come in an aero version now. But I'm too cheap and lazy to buy and install them to see. Probably 2 or 3 watts.

[@prestachuck2867]

If slamming the stem forces you to exceed your hip, glute, or hamstring ROM, then it will not be faster. Aerodynamics are useless if you cannot sustain power output for the required ride duration. Bottom line, get a proper bike fit. One that involves a physical assessment in order to account for body structure and range of motion. Simply mounting up narrow handlebars and slamming the stem might slow you down and might also cause serious injury to the rider.

[@treegrasss]

well said. i'm tired of seeing GCN bro-science making people into believing that going lower, narrower and longer would make them faster. in fact, it will make them go slower and end up in a hospital. it's funny to see world's top pros have more relaxed, upright fit compared to many wannabe amateurs.

[@prestachuck2867]

rararroro Not all pros have a more upright position. Many are quite low, BUT....they are young, flexible, and PROS. And not all pros are going full slammed aero tuck all the time. Because not all people (including pros) can ride that way for hours on end.

[@bigring6424]

This depends on how you define exceed. In the end exceeding ROM translates to breathing restriction because you'll keep your hips open but compress your chest to get there. But regardless, as power starts to drop faster there will be a point where it drops faster than aero gains increase. That cross-over is the optimal. One might say that's already beyond your ROM. Of course this applies if you're bent on going as fast as possible. Nobody said winning races is the most pleasant way to ride.

[@a.garcia9815]

Big Ring Range Of Motion is the angle of maximum extension and the angle of maximum flexion of any joint or joints in the human body. It is limited by bone structure, tension of the muscles, tendons, and ligaments, injuries, and surgical modifications. After fit corrections are made, output typically will drop for a period of one to three weeks depending upon ride intensity and durations, then once the rider has acclimated to the new position power output typically rises above pre-fit levels. This is why you cannot use power for fitting. I am a Retul certified Fit Tech.

[@bigring6424]

A. Garcia, everything you said is fine, but in the end there is still, in the long term a position that pushes past the edge of your bodies limits and reduces power but improves aero, and the optimum for a TT will be somewhere on that slide. No, you can't find that in an hour on a wattbike in a fit shop.

[@colinb8327]

Gotta say, I've gone for a one by set up on my 2012 S Works Shiv. SRAM 52 tooth aero kit, Eagle AXS rear derailleur, and the XG 1299, 12speed 10 - 50 tooth cassette. Oh and I've got a set of Zipp 808 NSW wheels, just waiting on that rear wheel. Yep it's an MTB rear set up on a Tri bike I'm putting together for racing ironman. Let the hate flood in.

[@simonm1447]

So no hate flood after a year ;-)

[@colinb8327]

@@simonm1447 lol, yeah I was expecting the “purists” to complain big time. A year on and it’s working really well as a bike for long, hilly courses. I will say that for flat courses, the jumps between gears can be a little big in terms of maintaining a cadence, but that’s the compromise and it wasn’t built for that, so I’ve since picked up another frame and built a second with a standard red AXS back end and 808/404 wheels (though still in the Mrs bad books for that one).

[@simonm1447]

@@colinb8327 I'm not fit enough for something like ironman (I'm a hobby cyclist), however I converted a former trekking bike to a road bike with mostly mountain bike parts (wheels with 36 spokes and robust Exal rims, brakes, shifting) and some training road bike tires. It's robust and cheap, and for hobby it's perfectly fine. For hobby the most cost efficient way to get a relatively fast bike is to reduce the rolling resistance, you get much more bang for your bucks here compared to costly weight savings or even more costly aero bikes.

[@colinb8327]

@@simonm1447 no arguments on cost side, “she who must be obeyed” is blissfully unaware of how much mine have cost. I have reoccurring nightmares I come home and she says “I’ve managed to sell them all for what you did they cost, the guy was really happy!” 😂

[@simonm1447]

@@colinb8327 Of course more ambitious cyclists need better material (you can't win a race with my bike), it was more meant in behalf of hobby cyclists like me, where a little bit more training would make much more difference than a better bike. For pros who are roughly around the same power level the bike can make the difference between win or lose.

[@lekhapratap1652]

Strings? Why not just a couple of drops of controlled paint drip. If anyone asks just bad a paint job.

[@danfuerthgillis4483]

Next up "Wheel Handle bars with Paddle shifters" lol

[@MrBoggins1234]

That bike is a stunner!

[@shainexxxsescrimshaw7605]

I absolutely love that paint job on the Trek bike mate

[@jarrrrred]

Someone needs to come up with a "dropper" stem

[@coachrobwille4176]

Look had one in the early 1990s it was called the URO stem

[@eurobubble7068]

Ridley claimed a 4% reduction in drag at/of the top tube, not in overall bike drag.

[@coachrobwille4176]

Just get a aero bar or aero wheels

[@mmenjic]

3:27 saving on handle gaining on helmet nice. 8:00 everything till now watts and now percent ?

[@nikolasluchian9370]

Sand the paint off, remove the handlebar tape sand off the bumps on your tiers and fill them with helium just to save weight

[@someguy9520]

Have paired up a 14-25 cassette to a 58t chainring

[@weenerdawg3972]

I have a question if increase the saddle height how can i reach the pedals with my legs?

[@gethind-j2390]

Solid. Thanks JonnyTech.

[@OFFSHOREDOUG]

We need John back.

[@retroonhisbikes]

Made me laugh, one minute your talking about a one by system. Then you talk about crossing the chain.

[@7metalfingers]

Glaetzer never used those mate, they were a design study by one of the teams suppliers

[@philipjacoby5769]

Is it a custom made bike? Or is it a bike that you Can by from a bike store? And What brand is it?

[@stevemansfield9582]

Sounds to me that Johnny Boy is just plucking those numbers out the air!! 😂

[@jdodd1258]

Hey Jon, just wondering where you got that handlebar data from? Cheers

[@hetalmadhu4684]

Having the top of the neck parallel to the top tube means in a single line. If you run your finger over there you will feel like a smooth line. It will make the bars really low. And I don't know if this is UCI legal or not.

[@joshmaitie5954]

What's he bike name that u had behind you in the video?

[@oeliku3033]

I dont think the trip strips will work on bikes very consistently. I think what they are supposed to be doing is acting like a gurney flap on racecars - introducing a turbulence , that keeps the air from creating a prominent tear-off edge behind - in this case - the headtube or the seat tube (or in case of racecars use that turbulence to create more downforce). But this effect is highly dependent on the airspeed and relies on the flow around the structure being as close to laminar as possible - so the stripes around the seat tube most likely have absolutely no effect. The stripes on the headtube can work, but you have to consider, that they also introduce drag. The engineers that designed the frame made it as smooth as possible in order to reduce drag and turbulence. And while the stripes may work, they surely mess with that surface quality and most likely you will end up with worse overall airflow than without them. Also notice how the headtube is not round, but has an egnineered cross shape. This is to improve airflow and those shapes are really fragile to changes. Meaning if you change the shape even slightly - it may not work anymore. So adding those strips to modern frames is 99.99% not a good idea. I think the aerodynamicly best bike is the bike you feel most comfortable with (at least as long as you dont have access to a wind tunnel ;D) Edit: apparently its "strips", not "stripes" ^^

[@archetypex65]

With regard to Aero drag. Mini Vortex generators or model airplane stall strips would be something you could play with. Also here's two interesting links. www.boardmanbikes.com/bb_en/why-boardman/technology-1/r-d/aerodynamic-surface-trip.html wingsandwheels.com/turbulator-dimple-tape.html There's a point of diminishing returns on handlebar width, it's not going to be a linear gain as you go narrower. You have to test a whole bunch of different sizes and configurations in a wind tunnel to get the actual coefficient of drag numbers and subsequently the Savings in wattage.

[@Juan0003]

To make that Trek faster, you need to covert it entirely with red. Now it's only at 50% capacity.

[@therealcaldini]

So the next evolution to keep the chain straight is to move the cassette and not the chain? I do wonder if hub gears will become light enough to replace cassette gears. Are there any other limitations that hub gears need to overcome?

[@jbratt]

I used to use a 52 56 on my front chainrings on fairly flat TT courses so I could keep the best chain line.

[@martinmartin5904]

I currently rode a 65 cm frame ... gonna try a 48 cm just to see if less is more .

[@Pratalax]

Pretty sure the old bmc time machine/tmr and new ridley noah have that tripwire baked into the mould.

[@Growlingtummy2]

Rope and hook: hitch it to a passing car and enjoy the free tow 👍🏼. Crash insurance and medical bills (for Americans) not included

[@mattgardiner313]

That bike is gorgeous.

[@tomassoejakto]

Get new slam stem, get new aero bars... You realize they're not "hacks" if I have to sell my kidney for them, right?

[@nikolasluchian9370]

If you hit the breaks while changing gears and kicking your rear wheel you can clip through the map and skip the whole race

[@Anthony39034]

Keep it up the great 👍🏿 job guys

[@vicmariodeth]

Can you please explain the tape trick a bit more? I do long distance triathlon and nothing there is UCI legal :)

[@trick700]

👍 very interesting, particularly section on cross-chaining logic, and really enjoyed presentation.

[@emils7911]

I have a ridley noah r Flow from 2012 with the strips. Dunno about the gains but a nice conversation starter 😉

[@hubdeep9452]

Step 1, change to 1x drivetrain. Step 2, don't cross chain 😂

[@htdtr]

Worth mentioning glaetzer doesn't actually ride those handlebars! Iirc they're a joke, they were broken so they cut each side and joined the pieces behind the stem

[@alexburchuladze487]

is it going to work on different bike?

[@darkrifle9832]

what model Trek is this & a link to buy one just like it please...

[@onedrop4250]

darkRifle98 it is trek in the asshole model 🤣🤣🤣

[@rafaelgarcia7169]

Don't understand the last one. How a stripe line works?

[@gravyboat2370]

Going downhill I find really works. Uphill not so much .

[@rendezvous_with]

Remove your 2nd chainring! But don't crosschain! *eyeroll*

[@Mssabbagh]

Where can I buy trip strip?

[@natas0733]

No substitution for base miles every week

[@joeuser2360]

Put your bottles on the back of your seat like a tri setup or wear a camelback. Why spend big bucks on an aero road bike only to foul it up with bottles.

[@mrjosephcochran]

I'm pretty sure that a bottle up front was found to be more aero than without one. Also I think the rear cages are not aero especially when you think about reaching around to grab them.

[@UhhhhhnooOOo00oO]

I want to increase my aero drag and add more weight to my bike. I'm not on the Tour = Ride for money and I want a better workout. Save money as well. 20,000 for a bike.

[@jasonlia7824]

Making your bike lighter doesn't make riding any easier, it just makes you go faster for the same amount of effort. And most people enjoy being able to ride faster and longer distances; lighter bikes aren't so you can put less effort in.

[@UhhhhhnooOOo00oO]

@@jasonlia7824 Same amount of effort? Apparently physics doesn't apply to only you. I have 10 road bikes and have been riding for 30 years.....Does a bike have two wheels? Come on. Stop with the simplistic crap that everyone should know. When you set off.....you don't just ride until you collapse of exhaustion. You ride to a place, a set route or a certain amount of miles/kilometers. Having a lighter bike, makes your workout easier and faster. Hooray....you got it done 1 minute and 18 seconds faster but, you put way less effort in. In fact, if you want a 10 times harder workout, ride a Fixie bike where you have to continuously pedal. A have bikes from 11lbs to 23lbs. If you're not in the Tour, not sponsored or getting paid to ride, you should have a heavier bike when you ride. In fact not just weight but drag. I'd rather ride with 25lb weights on my bike. Don't waste my time. Think about what you typed. Go on a 5 mile climb with a 20lb. bike with more drag and more then do the same ride the next day with a 14lb bike with better components and less drag. Then pedal on into fantastyland! They have actually done this comparison on this very channel. Go watch it.

[@jasonlia7824]

HaNooo HaNooo gee you're right, if what you're saying is true, I might as well go ride my aluminium mountain bike down beach road because the heavier the better right? Just give me a minute to hammer my shifters and rear derailleur, and maybe I should tape an umbrella to the back of my saddle while I'm at it. Oh! And I should also fill my wheels with sand and maybe fill me saddlebag with some 2kg weights. You're clearly not a true cyclist if you can't grasp the concept of lighter bikes. Cycling is based around exercise and gains, yes, but it is also about riding fast and having a blast doing so. And as I said before, you can get a killer workout in with a light bike- and yes, if time or distance is a constraint or if your training regime requires more resistance then sure, use a heavier bike, but what you're describing is completely extreme and a violation of the concept of cycling. Thanks, but I'll enjoy my scenic tour of the Alps while you fail to make it up the first hill because your heavy bike can't compensate for your lack of balls. In the end we'll both have had the same amount of exercise, but the differencw is I'll be hundreds of kilometres ahead of you. Cycling is more than just a gym routine; it's a lifestyle.

[@UhhhhhnooOOo00oO]

@@jasonlia7824 Yes, you'd get a better workout. Your sarcasm is a totally true. (This is not to insult you but, facts and science aren't on your side) Don't assume anything: I'll assume.....I've ridden triathlons before you were born and competitive cycling for years. I wanted the fastest/lightest bike. I had the first bike with oval cranks. It's why a batter on deck swings a heavier bat. It's why 5lb weights aren't the only thing in the gym and built more mass and strength. Swimming is slower and tougher than running because of resistance. It's fun and more enjoyable to go fast and be quick (I enjoy it) but, it's a worse workout. Many cyclists train on a heavier bike that has more of a drag coefficient. Go buy a Pinerello, spend money and look cool for your friends on your local ride. (Again, I think they look tremendous but, you should be laughed at on a local ride) I'm not suggesting a beach bike for a 75 mile hilled asphalt road ride. I'm suggesting a 19lb bike instead of a 14lb bike at 10,000 to 20,000 dollars. You don't need that as a Joe Sixpack. Almost all amateur cyclists ride a certain distance or even a certain time. If you add drag or weight, it's a better workout. You don't ride 5 miles more because you say. I have a lighter bike today. You don't ride to absolute exhaustion, where you can't make in back and have to be airlifted out. I have lighter bikes and way too expensive bikes. I enjoy riding them more, but don't because my health and tone is more important that showing off a bike and cutting through the wind. I don't even use cycling shirts and shorts anymore. An entire closet is barely used now. Besides thigh chaffing, there is zero reason to continually look like a clown for more aero. These Tour morons with corporate sponsors have convinced you it's necessary. Back to the LeMond days I had been wearing that garbage. Not anymore. Now, you'll take that as you should wear a snow suit, dragging an anchor and holding a wing braid side for more drag. (It would be a much better workout, if you could complete it) When it's easier to pedal, you have more aero and you have less weight...it's a worse workout. The day you qualify for the Tour and have sponsors...you can get whatever you want in my book. Competitive cycling is horrible. At it's core it's decent but, everyone wants and advantage for money. Cycling technology only advances for profit. You can ride on a 1970s bike and be perfectly fine and that was for profit as well. Safety is another thing: Like disc brakes, helmet tech, strength of materials and etc. All still for profit over safety. Your typical jumping to an extreme is a flaw in humanity. (Maybe you should train more to get up a hill on a mountain bike) When someone suggests a larger car for your family, you (like most other humans) say, How about an M1Abrams military tank? Is there zero reasoning or non-extremes anymore? Rhetorical

[@UhhhhhnooOOo00oO]

@@jasonlia7824 Also, EXACTLY...It's a lifestyle. Nothing wrong with that. I really enjoy my self built carbon fiber top sourced bike but, don't blow smoke up my ass and say it's a better or equal workout. I think my expensive bikes look cool as hell and I enjoy the feeling, still not a better workout. A Lamborghini LP750-4 SV Roadster isn't getting you there faster or with better MPG but, you want to look cool. That's okay..but, don't argue better workout. Who gives a crap about how many kilometers you go on a ride. Take a damn car next time and I'll be 1000s of kilometers ahead. How about a Saturn V Rocket.....You might not even have to pedal and the moon might be in your sights. Horrid reasoning on a "workout" "efficiency" reply.

[@tabl10s]

They have Black Friday in England?

[@janlouws7938]

Use clip-on aerobars. I've done it and it is a lot faster.

[@matjaztramsek4245]

I save 2.000 w in local hill since i lost 7kg. Still on 105 but going well.

[@stuartlarge9503]

Trip strips only work on the rear of surfaces, no point putting the on front surfaces, golf balls have them all over because they spin.