5 Things You Should Never Do In A Turbocharged Vehicle

[@gureno19]

I always ensure i warm up my engine each morning by dropping a brick on the accelerator and leaving it to warm up for 5mins or so.

[@ratface1399]

And if it gets too warm then you replace the air filter with a 🌭

[@Direct.injection212]

Clay or concrete brick? Lol

[@fazeobama4162]

Steel brick

[@TheFelt13]

Haha 😂😂😆😆😆😆 funniest comment I've ever read about cars

[@Bob-nu3xe]

haha so much for stop start! manufacturers trying to save fuel lol Ps is a brick an optional extra in the brochure ?

[@carlbeane9227]

I redirected my exhaust back into the intake for double the boost!

[@shizzlil]

Woah

[@jakubkrcma]

I suggest a secondary exhaust cooler. :-))))

throttle response must be abysmal…

[@colin_deans]

It's Big Brain Time

[@leebroadbent1340]

I redirected my exhaust inside the car so as not to waste any gases 👍🏼👍🏼

[@copperkeyracing6167]

Let me shed some light on these things, from an actual Engineer that designs these cars... 1. True for any car, let the engine oil warm up before putting a lot of strain on the engine, aka flooring it and revving the engine out. 2. True for Turbo cars, you want the Turbo to cool down to prevent damage to the turbo, in the case that you have been running the car hard and you want to turn the car off immediately. This is only the case when you are track driving the car, or being really hard on the car on the street due to traffic, or just being in a huge hurry. 3. Not true about not "lugging" the engine. Engines are designed to be able to simply step on it while in gear on the highway. Be it a a high gear or low gear. The Fuel that you mention that "injects a ton" into the engine... Not true at all. The fuel is tuned to exactly what is best for the engine given any scenario. Your foot does not control the fuel, the computer does. Out of boost, at full throttle the engine will be sending fuel, per the computer, which would be between 12.5 to 11.5 AFR. Engines respond better, the cooler they are, using the greater amount of fuel of 11.5 AFR, the only reason they would be at 12.5 is to try to save fuel. So, its actually the opposite in this scenario, your engine may be lean, not rich... but again, safe for the engine of course. If you see black smoke out the back, its because the computer saw knock/pre-ignition, due to poor maintenance or poor fuel quality (same thing really), pulled timing, pulled the throttle in the case of electronic throttle, and then dumped a ton of fuel to further protect the engine. This means you need to do your intake valve cleaning maintenance by hand, or drop some cleaner in it. DIY, if you know what you are doing. Doesn't matte how good quality of fuel you think you are using, if it is getting mixed with carbon/oil deposits in the engine, the best high octane fuel (premium 91-93oct) will be reduced to much lower octane, worse than the lowest octane you can ever find. 4. Use the fuel that the car has been designed for, this is for any car. If it's modified, and the engine computer was re-tuned to take only Premium. Use only Premium. If the manufacturer states to use regular, use regular, don't use anything else, you won't hurt the engine, but you aren't doing your wallet or performance any favors. If the manufacturer states you can use both, then the higher octane is better and gives better performance, but regular is ok and you can save money just make sure and do your maintenance. If the manufacturer states to use premium, then use only premium. You could damage the engine if you use less than premium, if not in the short run, then in the long run. 5. Flooring it in a turn, sure, but that's with any car. You need to learn the car, and what its driving characteristics are. This is just being a good driver. Not specifically for a turbo car, or a muscle car, exotic, or a budget car. Any car, and all cars, have their limits. In summary, for Turbo cars, of the 5 things Jason states to not do to Turbo cars, only Number 2 is specific to turbo cars, and the rest applies to all cars. Turbo cars: Let the turbo cool down, before turning it off when you have just driven the car really hard. Obviously, a car without a turbo, you don't have to worry about a turbo cooling down, since you don't have one. All cars: Let the engine warm up before going hard on it, do your maintenance to your car or the engine/transmission/brakes/etc/etc will blow up, use the proper fuel, learn the car gradually before you decide to drive it hard and try to push it to its limits or you'll find yourself in an accident. Special Note: Maintenance of the intake valves is critical to a turbo car, so stay on top of your intake valve cleaning maintenance, or your engine WILL BLOW UP! Maintenance is important to all cars, but for turbo cars, the engine is extra sensitive to its internal cleaning maintenance. If you don't maintain it, expect reduced performance, and expect to be selling the car very soon with a broken engine that you prefer not to pay for. I've seen this time and time again. I can go into great detail on how and why this occurs, and how modern cars have this issue but older cars do not, but I degress.

[@louarmstrong6128]

I read your comment. I am a beginner DIYer. What do you mean by intake valve maintenance? I have never taken off a valve cover? Sorry for such a novice question.

[@copperkeyracing6167]

​@@louarmstrong6128 To clean the intake valves, you don't need to remove intake valve covers. The valves are like upside down lolly-pops, except with the circle facing down not facing you, and the stem going straight up. Under the valve cover you can get to the stem, but not the face of the valve. What you want to clean is the face of the valve [and the back of the face] which is in the air path. Before we continue on the explanation, you have to also understand that when your valves begin to get dirty, that's when buildup/cleaning is strictly contained [and needed] at the valves. It is rare to catch it this early. BUT, that's what the cleaning is called, intake valve cleaning. What you want to clean, is not just the intake valves, where the buildup begins, but also everything behind the intake valve all the way out the tailpipe of your car. Intake is where the air comes in, and the buildup begins there, then it continues to run and buildup all the way through the system (engine, exhaust manifold, turbo [if you have one], exhaust system, then finally tailpipe). Intake valve cleaning is a misconception, when what is actually needed is the entire system cleaned beginning at the intake valves... but, many people understand and have heard of intake valve cleaning. Also, once everything is clean, you want to maintain the vehicle by keeping up with the cleaning before it builds up, and that is simply cleaning the intake valves at that point. So, clean it all once, then maintain it by just cleaning the valves. The cleaning procedure is all the same. Now, to continue on how to clean EVERYTHING, not just the intake valves. This is where you will have to study further, or wait till I make a video myself, as it seems that no one has a complete comprehensive how-to on it. But, I'm sure this sounds extremely labor intensive and complicated... So, to get you started, what you want to use a liquid cleaner. Its really not labor intensive or complicated, with a liquid cleaner. Look up how to use seafoam. There are many products that can do the cleaning, but all the comparison tests I've seen on breaking down carbon buildup on valves, shows seafoam to be best. Also, in my experience, seafoam has been the best. Don't use the Walmart knockoff that sits right next to it on the shelf, it's not as good. Seafoam cleaning. Study it. A few last words of wisdom. The white smoke that comes out your tailpipe when you're doing the cleaning procedure, that's carbon buildup. When it comes out a faint blue, that's the seafoam. Do one cleaning procedure at a time, and as a check, do another cleaning procedure and see if it comes out a faint blue. If no white smoke, just blue, then no more cleaning procedures needed. Each cleaning procedure, requires one bottle of seafoam. I've seen as many as 20 cleaning procedures needed before you get no white, all faint blue. The car gained about 100hp from doing the procedure... and no more knock, and risk of blowing up. Yeah, you could lose about half your hp when its so bad, its about to blow up... or it can blow up sooner, have oil consumption issues, etc etc.

[@louarmstrong6128]

@@copperkeyracing6167 Boy did I ever hit the holy grail of responses ...I appreciate the the time and experience you put into this, I will have to sit down tonight to fully absorb this....awesome and thank you again

[@copperkeyracing6167]

@@louarmstrong6128 you're welcome

[@portuguesepetrolhead]

Valuable feedback yours, thank you; however, point 3 is not straight forward in any of both directions. More to the point, it's not even specific to turbocharged cars - although agree that the mentioned fuel issue is impossible with electronic fuel injection. Know some of engines where full throttle between 1-1,5k rpm in top gear produces quite unpleasant vibrations, due to (I assume) unfavourable physics (inertia and natural vibration frequencies). Both my father's 2016 Fiesta Ecoboost 125 (turbocharged) and my own 2004 SLK 230 (supercharged) or 2011 Delta 1.6 diesel (turbocharged) suffer from this problem. Doing the same in my 2010 Panda 1.2 (N/A), 2004 CL 55 (supercharged) or 2001-3 SLK 200 (supercharged) feels - and sounds - totally fine. VW group's 2019-21 1.0 TSI 95 (Polo, Ibiza, Arona) also doesn't "complain" much. Interesting the difference between the SLKs. Basically, ithey have the same engine, but their character is quite different - the 200 are way smoother than the 230. Read similar reports between Merc's M112 2.6L and 3.2L... Slightly aburd topic anyway, because for quick acceleration it is obvious that a lower gear should be used.

[@dt3963]

When opening your hood to check your oil/filters, be extremely careful not to look directly at your turbo. If you make directly eyeline contact with your turbo it may instantly explode, sending shards of turbo into your face and killing you and possibly your entire family that might be standing behind you.

[@finn7530]

it’s true this happened to me

[@samuelelder9434]

@@finn7530 i confirm.. i went to your funeral

[@_recognize]

I AM DEAD LMFAPO

[@dickdastardly5534]

I’ve been killed five times by doing this - you’d think I would learn from it 😐

[@dinolizard5647]

Can confirm

[@gyffjogofl7676]

I usually redline my engine as soon as I start it.

[@Maxi_jedd]

🤦🏽‍♂️ 🤣

[@a.b.c4069]

is your head cracked yet?

[@peepingsid2096]

Lol 😆

[@r6master69]

Me too. Especially on super cold days. It's great for longevity

[@Jack-zo5gt]

gyff jogofl Actually did it yesterday in my Golf, got the AC pressure checked, took longer than I’d realised so I left, pulled up and some traffic lights around the corner, put it into sport and was going to drag race an Octavia (clear road there’s nothing around there). Foot down hit the top end of 1st gear and it made the most awful noise I’ve ever heard from a car. Fair to say I’ll be more vigilant about temps in future.

[@dus10r]

The old “dont turn your car off right after running it hard” was a characteristic of 80’s and 90’s turbo cars, hence people installing Turbo Timers. Modern Turbo cars including Subaru’s now continue to circulate oil even after you turn it off. Some cars like Audi’s have electric pumps that continue to run even after you turn them off. That tip is for old school turbo cars.

[@SniperReady]

I can hear the pump working when I turn off the engine in my Golf R. It sounds like a little robot, like a service droid making things okay

[@nathandorrington9517]

dus10r , do you know if parking on a slop( driveway) will damage the turbo due to the oils shifting due to angle of parked car? I move it to flat ground for a few minutes before i start it and let it warm up just to be safe. ('13 Wrx)

[@dus10r]

Nathan Dorrington slope shouldn’t hurt them, the turbos actually have a small sump that holds the oil in place even when on a slope. And just starting it doesn’t put a lot of stress on the bearing. Turbos are high rpm low torque and they’re balanced really well so there’s not a lot of wear on tear on the bearing. New turbos are WAY better engineered than they used to be.

[@ryanslattery2977]

@@SniperReady you know, I always wondered what that electric motor sounding noise was whenever I turned off my GTI.

[@SniperReady]

Ryan Slattery it’s your droid beep booping your turbo

[@votzmitvgeschrieben]

Never drive away and forgot your turbocharger on the kitchen table.

[@STEALTH1USA]

Dude, love the profile name. Lol

[@phorzer32]

Asbestos

[@voltaoltav4686]

I did it ine time... Didnt go well

[@aliggamer7251]

Max Headroom damn, happen to you too man??

[@grantmills4184]

@@aliggamer7251 happened to my buddy Eric

[@bobriley000444]

police: why were you going so fast? > EE told me i can't use this car at low-rpm

[@GrrMeister]

*I was unable to get into **_'Top Gear'_** under 100 MPH as I have a 7 speed gearbox*

[@pinytenis420]

@Elliot Rodger that's the Honda way and im proud to say im part of it 2nd and on is for pussies

[@fchanMSI]

I also saving the environment

[@alyx6427]

JUSES CHIRST aren't diesels usually turbochargered as well, and they usually stay at low rpm

[@the_batmobile0.4]

Lol

[@robbie121981]

This is crap, the real 5 things not to do in a Turbo car. 1. Dont eat hamburgers while driving, especially if u give it a hit and turbo lag kicks in hard as youll drop your burger, and make a mess. 2. Concentrate on the road and not on the hot babes that are checking out your car especially when the blow off valve is going off as u might crash into stuff. 3. Dont bone more then two girls at a time in the car as you will get a head ache from your head hitting the roof as its tight in there. 4. Dont practice drifting after 10pm around the Liverpool area cause i live there and need to sleep for work next day. (U know who u are) 5. Dont keep your drugs in the centre console cause thats the first place the pigs check. These here tips will keep you rollin allot longer and staying out of jail or the cemetery.

[@glennt1962]

Zonlander 😂🤣😀 I’m with you man.

[@mosestanjy]

the turbo flutter is not caused by the blow off valve please read up on it before pretending to know anything

[@yinzer_412_]

@@mosestanjy did he mention turbo flutter?

[@mosestanjy]

@@yinzer_412_ point 2

[@NewLondonMarshall]

Moses Tan I think he meant blow-off valve whilst having the turbo but not the turbo flutter itself, but I’m confused now as well haha

[@brokencondom329]

never put a carrot in your turbo

[@mspenrice]

Unless, of course, you drive a Rabbit.

[@bryanwhite3021]

Explain

[@miamijohndoe2517]

Broken Condom Loool

[@Ethan007Hacks]

quality meme

[@leonardr6704]

*cough* rob dahm *cough*

[@krenkosenforcer]

So wait. After listening to why I "shouldn't" floor it coming out of a corner, I swear you've just explained exactly why I *should* floor it!

[@coolk9dogs]

The down side is we buy more tires well got to spend money to have fun lol and it's worth it to lol

[@MartinFnGolej]

I usually brake into corner, downshift on entry and floor it on the way out. WTCC style ;)

[@750turbojoe]

Thank you, I knew it wasn't just me feeling that way!

[@750turbojoe]

Thank you, I knew it wasn't just me feeling that way!

[@s550andrew]

Fn. that’s the way to do it 😎

[@5THR33S]

Oh boy do I love sending significant loads to my rear tires

[@ratface1399]

I love significant loads🌭👅

[@KillingMachineMechanic]

@@ratface1399 gaaaaaaay

[@angrybirdsandy5041]

Next he’ll be telling me NOT to use my ejector seat while driving through a tunnel 🙄🙄🙄

[@johnnysins1400]

AngryBirds Andy ejecto seato cuz

[@windmillman]

Too soon Hector err..junior

[@R3alC0zy1]

Hey you ill take my cutter back .

[@tigermoth61]

I did that once, my Mum hasn't been the same since.

[@markrandles2822]

Today I learned i could clip my gas cap into the inside of the fuel door.

[@mackenziepeek9317]

Wait. You have a gas cap

[@Tony-tk4ht]

You have a gas tank?

[@MrJackfriday]

The car uses gas?

[@evanbutland2061]

You have a car?

[@zachary2641]

My car doesn't have a cap holder thing

[@ZippyTPinhead]

I am in my early 50's have been interested in cars for a long time.Thank you for the clear explanations your channel gives. It clears up a lot of myths that develop over time.

[@thewedge8823]

never drive a turbocharged vehicle underwater.

[@thingsofpassionwithrali6259]

@Jordan Winders 😁😁i

[@Omlet221]

Hey 420 likes _nice_

[@user-vx8te1id8r]

Mixup 221 421* ;)

[@aliggamer7251]

The Wedge really, rubbish. I drive mine from Australia to the USA once a year underwater and it works fine

[@carlbeane9227]

Duh. You have to turn the turbo around backwards first. Dumbass

[@EngineeringExplained]

PS - sold the car on Monday! This will be the last video of my personal Subaru STI.

[@alexchulzhanov]

Congrats! I hope the new owner takes care of it well.

[@Soma-7662]

Any idea what your new car would be?

[@balajichandrasekaran6312]

how pressure of diesel is increased from 1 bar to 2500 bar by Fuel pump in CRDI system?

[@joewrx8153]

Oh no u sold it 😩😩😩

[@balajichandrasekaran6312]

your reaction to " 2017 Porsche 911 Carrera video from Motor Trend" ? #TurboRant

[@DrDLightful]

That's interesting you mention low speed pre ignition. When I was in college for autonotive and advamced engine performance, we talked in depth about how there are more and more instances of GDI turbo engines succumbing to "superknock" as we called it. We saw several engines come in with rods and pistons through the side of the block. It seems to happen when people are just driving and tip into the throttle a bit, suddenly the engine locks up. Snapshot of PID data when the check engine light comes on has indicated that these types of engines are perfectly fine and operating at low speed, high load and all of a sudden something happens right after the fuel pressure rises but right before it makes the change from stratified charge to homogenous mode. Tests have been done and the hypothesis is that when you tip into the throttle the fuel pressure goes up, spraying in more fuel, and that fuel hits a hot spot and detonates. I read about tests where pressure transducers have recorded 2500-3000 psi in the combustion chamber before the piston reaches top dead center, shattering the piston.

[@115zombiehuger]

A lot of the things pointed out in this video only apply to older turbo charged vehicles.

[@justclik6578]

I want to give this comment one millions likes. Way to go giving 30 yr old advice in a new car...

[@SethPowell7]

this.

[@howardjboone7065]

+FLnative dead on, computer controlled cars and he giving 1980 theory

[@stoatythesecond888]

Aside from letting the oil heat up, but that applies to all vehicles

[@justclik6578]

+Rich Smit actually flat fours have the same tq/hp split as a domestic v8. Unless you're modding for torque alone, the two numbers are normally within 10% of each other. 300hp/300tq at the wheels is very common. I don't think that Jetta can do that can it?

[@couchwarrior2449]

My 1.8L turbo Jetta pinged bad on 87 octane. Switched to Shell Vpower 91and it runs like a champ. Better to pay at the pump than at the mechanic shop.

[@dylanberry7822]

Something I always loved about my 335i monitored oil instead of coolant temp.

[@lytheus69]

this

[@zaafirahmad1853]

literally thinking the exact same thing

[@MiraSubieGirl]

Bmw result: Coolant overheats instead 😅

[@MiraSubieGirl]

Relax ive had 11... love em 👌🏻

[@kilovwdude6457]

My A3 has that love it

[@tominator227]

ok guys, I´m a car guy and I "care" about my car, but please don´t forget to use your car. That´s what it was made for in the first place... it´s a machine, not your girlfriend ( or boyfriend ) that deserves all the love and care you have to offer

[@mountaincarjunkie3307]

I mean, sure, if you don't want your car living past 100k and you want to replace engines all the time go for it.

[@beatsbybrandon902]

Don't tell me how to live my life

[@abrahamsmith3440]

Humans disappoint me

[@kareemmehdi]

Spudonaut Robert every modern car has no problem making it to 100K just change your oil and don’t beat the living hell out of it and you’ll be good

[@BrawndoTarrlyton]

Nice try mechanic, no $500 blinker fluid replacement for you- I know your ways.

[@enelgee]

The low rpm and high boost will more than likely only affect drivers of manual vehicles. Automatic vehicles will downshift once you squeeze that gas pedal.

[@dan428]

That's true

[@myar4931]

You would think an automatic would downshift, but I don't trust them to do so when I need it. That's why I seldom ever risk overtaking on two-lane highways when driving automatics. I've missed too many passing windows simply because the cars refused to downshift, even when I floored the pedal, or if it did, it took too long.

[@MG3R]

sounds like your car having some gearbox sensor issue, you should go and get it checked by experienced workshop and change the sensor. i got mine changed and it downshifts beautifully everafter, something missed for a long time

[@bandnerdo2000]

he was only talking to non wimps I believe

[@nukkythompson419]

lol automatic Vehicles? why are you here

[@macwoodfleet8721]

I use bricks to keep my car redlining all the time while i am asleep. Each morning my oil thanks me, but i get embarrassed and douse the engine in ice water because i am scared of relationships.

[@fders938]

Even better would be to pour some water into the intake because you don't want the engine to dry out while it's kept warm overnight.

[@JohnLemieux]

5:50 OMG I NEVER KNEW THERE WAS A SPOT TO PUT THE GAS CAP WHEN YOURE FILLING UP MY MIND IS BLOWN

[@bigbrisso]

John Lemieux L

[@Billy_Darley]

i filled up my car today for the first time since i bought it and saw the spot for the cap but didnt know how to use it so i didnt bother. it has a tether anyways.

[@BobO-zo2bi]

Ha, mine doesn’t come with a gas cap

[@a.b.c4069]

bunch of dumbasses

[@peterbustin2683]

Yeah I buy 50 at a time and leave them on petrol pumps so the local boyz can throw them at the police...

[@JulianFuller001]

I'm not an engineer. But I am a professional driver. If you floor the accelerator pedal at low RPM in a manual vehicle, nothing immediately happens to the boost, neither will it damage the engine. The accelerator will open the butterfly in the throttle body to allow more air, the computer will measure how much air is being forced into the engine per stroke and inject the required amount of fuel to achieve a clean burn as predetermined by the ECUs' fuel-air mixture mapping. This results in increased engine speed which correlates to increased exhaust gas flow which in turn increases the rpm of the turbo which THEN increases the boost pressure incrementally as the engine gains speed until peak boost is reached and the wastegate is actuated. What you're referring to is called laboring the engine, which is only 'undesirable' as it won't actually damage anything other than the drivers' pride if they don't compensate for the lack of power at low RPM in a high load scenario and actually stall the vehicle. The most common high load scenarios encountered would be driving on an incline, or attempting to overtake without downshifting. The same applies to N/A vehicles as well. This would be better classified as one of your pet hates, not an actual 'do not do'. (you may be referring to the thermodynamic efficiency of a gasoline engine and its relativity to combustion efficiency in a high load scenario, which is something completely different and has more to do with fuel efficiency than any damage that might occur)

[@EngineeringExplained]

+Julian Fuller laboring your engine can cause LSPI and damage your engine. Owners manuals will suggest against it for this very reason. Here's an explanation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qaCtlpRtraqnY5o

[@JulianFuller001]

Engineering Explained I know what LSPI is. However, due to design parameters of engines, actual damage resulting from LSPI to a vehicle straight off the showroom floor would be a rare occurrence. There is more risk when owners begin modifying engines and changing the operating parameters. I took the time to watch the clip you posted out of courtesy, and if you were really honest, your argument is presented along the same lines as "if you go outside your chances of being stuck by lightning are higher than if you stay inside." Especially considering the report indicated that the circumstances would need to be 'just right'. Laboring an engine is more a poor behavioural issue. The same as failure to indicate also increases the risk of being involved in a collision and thereby resulting in vehicle damage. Looks like we'll be keeping seperate opinions on this one.

[@allannichols9864]

Exactly and he also claimed engine RPM limits the amount of air an enjine can injest. This makes even less sense considering we are talking turbo cars which pressurize the intake and are ramming air in at a set psi.

[@another3997]

Allan Nichols Maybe your enGine can't inGest much because you filled it up with drop many "J"s?

[@MattMaudsley]

None of us know the proprietary alloys that are used for performance and on the other hand to save money in new or older turbo charged cars. Sure the same factory may make a specific part for many companies, but it is made according to the formula given to them by the car manufacturer. There is no wide brush to cover everything in a general way. If there were racing would be easy. We want to say do this one thing for every car, but that is not the reality. Even the same parts in same model cars with a little tweak can behave quite differently. Premium fuel certainly has more energy in a the same general volume, but weather your car is sensitive to that or not again depends on your cars particular collection of parts.The closer the Octane rings are together for the right air mixture and ignition will give more power. HIgher altitude gas stations offer a wide range ot octane strings to accomodate different cars at different altitudes with different turbos, no turbos, or just different parts that work differently in concert together. "we all will fail at something, so make sure it is at something you enjoy!"

[@CarlizWang]

Love your videos on "Things you should never do..." However after watching them all I am now too scared to even touch my car without it blowing up XD

[@ronarndt6722]

Good video. Just thought I'd chime in and FWIW, you mentioned about "pre-ignition" / pre-detonation especially at low RPMs with high load. Pre-ignition can occur for multiple reasons, however, one common area that is usually not looked at right away is vacuum leaks that lean out the A/F ratio. While it's true you can get a little more "giddy-up" on a lean burning engine, the lean can cause ping or pre-detination. What does this have to do with low RPM / high load? High load places more air in the cylinders and at low RPM (retarded ignition) this can "lean-out" the A/F ratio in the cylinder and in turn, may create the the same "lean-burn" condition as a vacuum leak. In short, as you indicated, "Turbo" boost at the appropriate time and RPM.

[@ImyurZero]

Unless your car has an auxiliary coolant pump that continues to run coolant to the turbo charger after the car has been shut off to prevent any issues. Thanks VW!

[@ethanjohnson3418]

And BMW. And Audi. And Mercedes. And almost any modern turbo car that has a performance turbo.

[@thamadflava]

+Ethan Johnson except for Subaru, because Subaru, you know...

[@inkno701]

Yeah but Subaru's just use science instead of a pump. Their turbos are oil and water cooled so the coolant will continue to circulate even after shutting off the engine because of thermal siphoning. That's why turbo Subaru's have an extra coolant reservoir above the turbo at a higher point in the coolant system then the radiator.

[@Josh-nt3fo]

That doesn't mean you should just shut off your engine after running it hard. Even in engines without a turbocharger, it's wise to let things cool down for a little bit and let temperatures even out, let parts seat evenly, etc. as they cool.

[@korgied]

+Vegaspsycho what? Same deal with my 07 A4 and was the same in my 00 A4 too. Subaru turbos are not special in any way at all.

[@HorrorbleGamer]

Wow, you're really informative bro. I have an Opel Adam and it's turbo charged. The car rattles when I floor it at a low rev and I never understood why or even that the revs were relevant until now. Thanks for saving me alot of future repairs.

[@Whinzey]

1 thing you should do to not damage your car. DON'T drive the car at all!

[@Presence_of_Mind_]

I'm pretty sure certain components actually go bad faster when not used

[@spyrosbellos2522]

just dont buy the car in the first place😂😂

[@TheOzthewiz]

Also, a REALLY good way to save on gas!

[@michaelblakemore3712]

@@Presence_of_Mind_ some ferrari owners got really angry because their batteries kept going, so ferrari just told them to drive it more. ferrari never learns lol.

[@deere3321]

Years ago we had a VW diesel turbo. My wife drove it to work which was about 8 miles. Rarely was it driven at highway speeds. After 2 years, a new turbo, intake cleaning and finally a rebuilt transmission, it was time to trade.

[@thangnguyen02]

Appreciation the info. I suggest you guys watching his hole video as it contains many useful pieces of info as well as explanations. 1) Not running the engine hard until engine oil is warmed up - which can take some time. Don't rely on the cooling gauge. Wait a few minutes after coolant is warmed up. 2) Not immediately shut up the engine right after a trip. Let it cool down by avoid the boost before shutting it off. 3) Avoid high load at low engine RPM. (Which btw, how do you avoid in an automatic like a CR-V? I can't downshift.) 4) Use the best fuel (highest octane) 5) Don't floor it right after a corner. (Joy kill for me. Ugh. Don't think it matters w/ my tiny CR-V though)

[@OscarHernandez-jk5nc]

hey im a little late but i think you're ok with #3 because the auto will downshift for you

[@syedreza8722]

Always impressed by your knowledge and your means of explanation. As a teacher, I applaud you my man.

[@EngineeringExplained]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@RedTurbocar]

half of the things you said are incorrect

[@sebastiansaxon]

+Mr Ornelas thanks for the chuckle

[@RedTurbocar]

+Mr Ornelas HA. what points did I make?

[@RedTurbocar]

+Mr Ornelas HA. what points did I make?

[@newground1341]

These comments man 😂 I’m picking up on some strong sarcasm

[@doreenlee9304]

LoL same

[@SkudaLaRoo]

E15 in my cruze and it loves it! I average 34mpg vs 31 in 87. I am tuned from BNR and using their modified 87 tune

[@hackneo64]

My GTI still runs the oil pump for the turbo after the engine is shut off so it doesn't burn out the bearings in the turbo. Newer cars dont need to be kept on after your done driving.

[@DarkVoidDan]

Yeah same on my old scooby.

[@SethPowell7]

same here, turbo is coolant cooled and doesn't need to be run at the end of the trip.

[@elmin2323]

Yer all new cars are fine pretty much all cars have turbos now ie golfs and Ford Focus and they have auto stop at the lights!

[@sil8127]

+elmin2323 I never even considered that, good point!

[@dimosk7389]

It's still a good idea to cool your car down. It's not just the turbo that gets stressed.

[@Ultrabenbooyah]

Catalytic converter? What catalytic converter?? ;D

[@jakesimm5889]

Does it make you feel good sending an unnecessary amount of pollutants into the atmosphere?

[@Ultrabenbooyah]

Jacob Simmons You're probably right, that's why I bought a very expensive sport cat instead of a decat pipe. But MANY owners of turbocharged cars just decat their cars. Many modern petrol cars are quite clean even without cats, though.

[@Russell9111]

+Balls Deep that's what I'm saying

[@DarkChasmGamers]

+john doe What a great way to care for your kid's future

[@TadGhostal]

yes

[@Sevalecan]

Never? 2003 VW Jetta TDI. There's an oil heater/cooler connected to the coolant lines, so oil temp should always be close to engine temp. There's no preignition because a diesel is intended to have ignition right when the fuel is injected. And I'm not so sure about the richened mixture to the catalytic converter being a problem, because the rich mixture at low RPMs could've been optimized out in the ECU by the manufacturer if it were something that'd cause a lot of problems.

[@cactuscanuck6802]

He mentioned using the best gas for turbo engines; also make sure to use "top tier" gas or some other type with high quality cleaning agents in it. Super important for all modern, high output engines

[@em4703]

The oil viscosity between cold and hot isn't as big as you think it is. The flow is the same even when cold, the oil pump will move the same amount of oil, there aren't any "voids" created. Its just that the oil pressure is slightly higher when cold. There's other reason why not to push hard a cold engine, most of it has to do with the pistons and cylinder being either too tight or too lose, creating different problems/wear over time.

[@nthgth]

Interesting, I had thought there was a large difference in viscosity. "5W-30" I thought meant 5(winter; cold) and 30 at operating temp. So is the video still correct, that oil temp should be hot too, so the metal moving parts are precisely the right size?

[@Pulverrostmannen]

Fun part of the Subaru Diesel I got is that the shift indicator pretty much tells you to run your engine at the low revs high load condition all the time. it even use more fuel than just shifting down and up the revs a bit. I never run the engine on the low revs that introduces the heavy vibrations since I know it´s not good to do so

[@corybrim7524]

"We got some big sticks in the road." Had me laughing. I love that you find time for some humor here and there.

[@Rusty_trombone62]

I’m speaking for 91-99 Mitsubishi 3000gt Vr4 models And 1991-1996 Dodge Stealth R/T TT twin turbo. 1) you should always drive with an aftermarket oil temperature gauge because cool oil is way too thick to push through these small turbos the high oil pressure will cause your turbos to blow its seals and o rings making the turbos blow oil. 2) you definitely want an aftermarket boost gauge because the stock boost gauge in the dashboard is not connected to the turbos at all. It’s an engine load gauge with a signal from the ecu. 3) install a digital wideband oxygen sensor and gauge because the stock intercooler pipes tend to leak causing a dangerous leak situation. Even one of the 28 year old little vacuum hoses can dry rot crack causing a vacuum leak also causing a dangerous lean condition that can lead to knock (detonation) in the engine. 4) nothing lower then 93 octane fuel if you wanna keep the engine alive. Lower octane fuel causes knock even under normal driving conditions. Knock is the #2 engine killer. No oil is number one. 5) check under the car. Look at the circle ⭕️ outdation of the oil pan and make absolutely sure that there is not a single dent in and part of the oil pan. Especially near that circle area. Any dent in the oil pan is a ticking time bomb 💣 for the engine because the engine oil pickup sits literally 2 millimeters or less from the bottom of that oil pan and the slightest dent is causing major oil starvation to the main and rod bearings. Park the car and don’t start it again till you get the dent fixed. It’s very easy to fix and can be done on a day off from work. Jack and support the car on jack stands and make sure it’s safe for you to be under it. Remove the downpipe, remove the starter, drain the transfer case oil, remove the transfer case. And just let it sit on something padded on the ground still connected to the driveshaft, drain the engine oil, remove the oil filter, remove the turbo drain lines, buy new gaskets,remove all the oil pan bolts, use a oil pan gasket splitter (they sell it at advance Auto Parts) to split the gasket surface without bending the pan itself, remove the oil pan, inspect the oil pickup for damage replace it if it’s damaged, use something oval shape to hammer out the dent. (I use an old EGR valve as a chisel). Afterward clean all the old gasket sealer off and apply a thin coat of either Genuine Mitsubishi RTV sealant around the entire mating surface of the oil pan. If you can’t get the Mitsubishi sealant then I use “the right stuff” RTV all the time with great results. And reverse the sequence, install a new Genuine Mitsubishi oil filter and from now on only use a Mitsubishi dealership oil filter. I’m hey are $5.15 and are the best oil filter you can use in this car. The bypass valves never fail or collapse. Refill the engine oil and transfer case oils.dont forget to install the turbo oil drain lines with new gaskets. Install everything else. Start up and check for leaks. Congratulations 🎊 you just added years to your engine’s lifetime. 6) inspect the timing belt once a month at least. The upper timing covet has 2 10mm bolts and is very simply to access. Change everything at the very first sight of slack in the belt, cracks, oil on the belt, water pump leaking, pulley noise, or you just got the car and don’t know when it was last changed. It’s an easy job but all the timing components absolutely have to be genuine Mitsubishi parts. Especially that tensioner adjuster I’ve seen cars come to me with that Chinese made eBay tensioner fail on initial startup and when that fails it takes the heads, valves, and sometimes the pistons with it because it’s an interference engine and this is why we have to have that only the best attitude when it comes to timing belt components. The only exception to this is if you make big power like myself I use the gates racing blue Kevlar timing belt that is 100 times stronger then the Mitsubishi oem belt. But it’s very expensive well over $200. So you really don’t need it. 7) every once in a while spray the wastegate actuator Rods with WD-40 because they get dirty and rusty and will sometimes get stuck. And you don’t wanna be riding around wide open gate on stock internals without the proper tune. 8) remove and inspect the stock ecu for leaking capacitors or burned circuits. If found have the unit rebuilt or consider a tune able chrome ecu like s Jesters unit. 9) that’s about all I can think about for now. Just take care if these cars because they are a dying breed and the value has doubled since 2013.

[@MasterBait1]

whoever buys the car second hand from you gets a very well protected car I'd say

[@tornut24]

+2kwik L*l *'ve n*ver he*rd th*t *ne b*fore

[@Honeypot-x9s]

+2kwik I wish I understood this logic.... were we watching the same video....

[@uavpilot6715]

Oh man!! That answer was the best!!!

[@bullet_tooth_tony]

new owner will definitely discover new jokes: - knock-knock! - who's there? - it me, 4th cylinder :)

[@XenoEXTornado]

+TIMOSHINA 🙄

[@stoyantenev7819]

Fun fact for the author himself: Most cars that are equipped with oil cooler (typicaly if it has forced induction chances are it has oil cooler too), also have OIL thermostat which serves for cutting the oil off of the oil cooler, making it get hotter sooner than normal :)

[@nthgth]

That's really cool! And good to know

[@plainlybasic2300]

A couple things, which I'm sure people know, is that I most cases for modern turbocharged cars, they run and auto transmission, and the cars computers are designed to cope and adjust fir nearly every single possibility. Aka, if you have a modern turbo car, with and auto, you shouldn't need to worry too much about anything. With that in mind, you should always use a high quality full-synthetic oil, and the gasoline recommended by the manufacturer. Obviously using a higher octane won't necessarily be bad, as far as money goes, today's engine especially are designed with different gasoline in mind. for instance, on a typical turbo car (for escape for ex) Regular 87 octane is just recommended, where as a hight octane won't necessarily do too much better

[@jellyd4889]

VW don't use full synthetic or even recommend it. The Castrol they recommend is not synthetic. Oils have changed. In fact, here in Germany it is not easy to find a full synthetic oil any more. Before they were all labelled: FULL SYNTHETIC. Now that it not a buying decision any longer.

[@jellyd4889]

The same Castrol labelled oil in the US is full synthetic, here the exact same labelled oil is not. Proving you US guys are being conned. Like catch cans.

[@trogers2120]

interesting and knowledgable video! My diesel has a dpf (filters out the black soot) and I noticed during more highway driving, I was hitting the gas more in 6th instead of downshifting since diesel cars have more low end torque, and I realised that my car was doing more dpf regens (car self cleans the dpf so it doesn't clog, basically burning off the residue that forms inside the dpf), but now that i'm doing more city driving and never really hitting the gas hard at low rpm, I drove it for almost 3 weeks before it did a regen, whereas with more highway driving than city driving, I was sometimes doing 2 dpf regens a week. Good to know since the dpf regen kills like 30hp whenever it's doing it making the car almost sluggish to respond/drive.....

[@jazedftw1108]

Thank you for the great explanation. My BMW 120d had issues when flooring it at low revs under 2000 and it would shut off full power. It gave a drivetrain error and the power got reduced to like 100hp instead of 225. (ECU Remap) I never understood the problem but now I know I have to ease in the throttle. Thanks engineering explained. You do a great job!

[@pinytenis420]

Nah bruh you downshift thats what he's trying to say it sounds like you have a bigger problem on your hands 😂 i lug my prelude every once and awhile in traffic or whatever and never had any issue like what your explaining lol

[@CL9k24a3]

I have Placebocharged car, does ths apply to my car ??

[@nizarawawdeh4142]

+Dustin Dryden that was really funny lol. I actually believed it with all the tire squeal

[@zloychechen5150]

oh, so that's you who everyone has fun with!

[@zloychechen5150]

sadness-aspirated

[@CL9k24a3]

+zloychechen5150 placebocharging is real... now my 1.3 orion makes 800whp and it can make as much as I wish.

[@kodenich]

I once bought a whistle that clamped onto my exhaust that made a whistling sound when the exhaust pressure was high. It was super lame. Then it fell off.

[@TestECull]

On point two, you missed the main reason not to shut one out like that: Turbo spooldown. Turbos spool at ridiculous speeds. Over a hundred thousand RPM for smaller ones is not uncommon. They rely on engine oil flow to stay alive and if they're not given a few moments to spool down on engine shutdown they'll cook their bearings in no time flat.

[@mimike80]

give me a example of someone who does not let their turbo spool down before turning it off. last I checked, you get off your gas pedal. who would boost their turbos to spool up and then turn the car off?? phuuuk you mean?

[@mimike80]

TestECull you got to be a assclown to turn your car off in less than 3 seconds after boosting. Never heard of such a thing.

[@TestECull]

mimike80 It's not boosting. It's *any* driving. Even puttering down the road at 1700RPM is enough to get the turbos spinning fast enough that their lifespans are drastically shortened without being allowed to fully spool down first. Why are you resisting so hard the idea that you can save yourself a few thousand dollars every 2 years by waiting an extra 3-5 seconds before shutting the engine down?

[@mimike80]

TestECull false. Ridiculous. Who does that.

[@101Volts]

Is it just me or do you have the other impression here? When I put my Diesel (6.5, Turbo) in Park or Neutral the RPMs go up for a second or two then they go down. I can't say I know for sure if that's the turbo but it does happen.

[@badactor3440]

Ford's Ecoboost engines have electronic oil pumps that continue to circulate engine oil through the turbo intercooler after the ignition is off.

[@danielhan7638]

Thank you for actually writing down the 5 points in the Description. You're the first person to do that in a while, instead of just plugging in whatever :D

[@Papa7Bravo]

you're talking about lugging in a diesel an saying that it will inject more fuel and it's bad? huh? they're mapped ECU' you can floor it at 1000 rpm and it will refer to the load chart mapped in the ecu and inject the right amount of fuel for that rpm. You're then on about to not power out of the corner, it's logical, you can do that with a regular car that's non turbo, you have grip then get into the powerband and it starts to slip.

[@dieselmutt8865]

That's what I has thinking. The ECU is going to control AFR's under any condition you could drive the engine. My VW TSI runs low rpms through the automatic trans and mimic diesel like power out of a gas engine. Knock sensors are going to correct any mis-givings.

[@RennieAsh]

Turbo lag is more extreme though ;p

[@Papa7Bravo]

+Rennie Ash in some cases yeah, but it's not something you 'shouldn't do' I swear that EE is just saying it as a 'filler' to make the video longer.

[@Papa7Bravo]

+diesel mutt88 also about having to buy the more expensive site fuel for a turbo car, that's is a heck load of BS, y out will only have a difference in power and unless you have a car that is ultimately tuned for one type of fuel, you will not notice a difference.

[@DIgitusSmartas]

He should have said never to put lesser octane fuel in your car than the one it was tuned on by a manufacturer, it is even written in cars manuals. My car was tuned from factory on 95 octane but I have never filled 95 only 98 octane or at one stage they had 100 octane fuel (98 petrol +10% ethanol mixture) at certain pumps but its not sold anymore so I just add few litres of e85 on top of 98 octane. Once its modified it is tuned to one type of fuel but some car have the ability to have maps for 2 fuel types say e85 and 98 where you can switch from one to another

[@TheAdequateDwarf]

Also knock sensors will adjust timing to fix the knock to avoid damage.

[@timg3199]

On corners I do a rev match downshift and floor it just before the road straightens out, and it is fun. I slid a little once when it was raining, but I was pushing the limits of physics that day.

[@link6032]

Not sure what you mean regarding 'lugging' causing the engine to run rich and damage the engine and cat. That is nonsense, modern fuel injection engines control mixture based on engine load, AFR, map etc, the won't allow a engine to run excessively lean or rich. You might have your foot flat to the floor, requesting full power but the ecu will give you what is safe, that means not allowing it to run dangerously rich. Imagine the warranty claims if owners could actually damage their engine buy driving round in a too low gear and the ECU allowing rich mixtures which kill the cat !!!

[@Nezz609]

I have a mazdaspeed 3 which has a fairly modern direct injection engine and this is a known problem among them. Everyone will tell you to never floor the car under 3000 Rpm.

[@mituc]

In our mazdaspeeds one of the "problems" (which also results in a lot of fun) is the offset between the center of the crank and the rods, which results into stupidly more torque than similar engines. With the factory insta-spool turbos and some poor tuning the rods can bend or crack in no time.

[@EngineeringExplained]

Most people drive automatics, which require very little effort from the driver in order to keep things reliable. (Example, floor it in a high gear and it downshifts). You can easily damage a manual vehicle if you don't know what you're doing. Burn up the clutch, damage the gears in a launch, cause LSPI. Engines will run rich at high load/high gear (low speed) because it's safer to do so. Running rich greatly reduces the chance of LSPI or knock.

[@link6032]

+Engineering Explained I agree ECUs will run rich over lean, that again is a safety feature, in the same way it will pull out ignition timing to prevent pre ignition (knock). Yes of course bad drivers can damage a car with too much clutch slip, poor gear changes brake the gearbox etc etc, but the ECU will prevent incorrect mixtures regardless of what the driver does. If your scenario of low gear acceleration did cause damage due to fuelling that would indicate the ECU couldn't adjust fuel and ignition to keep the AFR and timing under control, which clearly isn't the case. The fact that the same car can reliably operate at high and low altitudes and hot and cold climates means the ECUs have a range of parameters it can adjust to account for external factors whilst keeping everything safe. Catering for the changes in temperature, fuel quality, altitude etc etc which a car sold globally has to cope with is far more complex than people not changing gear early enough.

[@mituc]

MJ W LSPI starts happening usually when there are hot spots in the cylinder or on the piston. Especially DI engines will produce a lot of soot which is aggravated by low RPM high load situations when the mixture is enriched. Over time that soot clogs onthe piston crown (also helped by poor gas quality, extended service intervals, frequent short trips with a cold engine, and so on). That is something that the ECU cannot control and can't prevent either because it's not post spark ignition, is just a spontaneous phenomenon.

[@benob6746]

You have the same voice like Ross from Friends :D

[@Celtic-Acid]

TIP: open & close your bonnet 5 times to create pressure for the turbo. You can boost faster 👍

[@jeffjackson9679]

Most modern turbo charged cars don't require "cool down", as they are liquid cooled, and that coolant keeps flowing through to prevent the oil from coking. But I remember the crappy old Pontiac 301 turbos requiring owners to do this. Most owners didn't and those turbos would crap out before the car had even 50k miles on them.

[@gearsofwar3xXx]

Keeping the oil changed in a turbo car is even more important than in a non-turbo.

[@marioelburro1492]

Frr

[@oscarmvl]

Good to know, now I'm only missing the turbocharged car :'D

[@EngineeringExplained]

Hey, me too!

[@joemilton7552]

So you sold the STI, do you have your LS1 swapped miata replacement yet??

[@kinangeagle133]

This is where “down a gear, disappear” actually exist for once

[@aciddiver1978]

I changed from 95 octane to shell v power 98 octane in opel insignia 1.5 petrol 195 hp. Remarkable difference. Engine runs better, better fuel economy, more responcive etc.

[@Deej-85]

I absolutely love your videos. It's nice to be able to totally agree on everything you say.. Iv always told others about loading up an engine at low rpm. It's just an unnecessary pressure on everything Inc clutch and gearbox. Also like the part of about warming up the oil before thrashing.. Some of my work colleagues can't get out of the car park fast enough in the mornings even when it's -5° some hitting the redline.. I place bets on who's going to need an engine replacement first lol

[@andrewt.5567]

Realistically, probably none of you. Body rusts out before engine is dead on pretty much every car in my region.

[@eh2341]

That is a beautiful road ! (Good advice, too)

[@cbyhvyeng]

Big fan of this channel. Though, the coolant and oil temperature relationship depends on how the design engineers were allowed to design the car based on trade-offs (I'm one too). Meaning, there may be automotive manufacturers who have further evaluated this risk for the benefit of the consumer (prior SAAB no GM?). This video might be considered correct for basic European and American cars.

[@StefBelgium]

In my 2020 GT mustang, although it is a normally aspirated engine, the 5 liters needs quite sometimes at least 7 to 8 minutes before the oil is at the right temperature. But most importantly , the oil for the transmission is even worse to get hot and requires like 15 minutes minimum. So it s not only the oil of the engine, but oil of transmission is also important.

[@palopaluca]

Good now I only need to put a turbo on my car :D

[@Alberto-mq3jm]

why settle for one? put two muthafuckas in there. :D

[@cristianvelasquez893]

+Alberto Vargas well why stop at 2 why not 3

Gold rule - one turbocharger for every cylinder.

[@Alberto-mq3jm]

Roddy Dykes​ I give you my "real man" seal of approval.

[@joma4499]

+Cristian Velasquez mmmm. Compound turbocharging.

[@haydenmadigan8186]

So you’re telling me that a turbo doesn’t need to spool and you’re gonna get 15psi at 1000rpm

[@Lewislpalm]

If you put a small turbo on a large engine, then yes! Realistically, what he means is that you won't be creating boost pressure, but you will be spinning the turbine up quite a bit. A turbo responds to load as well as rpm.

[@Thatannoyingvoicetoldyoutodoit]

Hold up, how can you create boost at low rpm? They're not high pressure diesel turbos, they're petrol and will need a greater rpm for your turbo to spool....

[@Lewislpalm]

@@Thatannoyingvoicetoldyoutodoit They don't produce boost, but you can spin them up by loading the engine at low RPM. The damage is caused by the turbo spinning up from the load of the motor but the oil feed is engine driven, so the low oil flow at low rpm won't sufficiently lubricate the turbo which is beginning to spool.

[@zchen1994]

Electric turbocharger does that I am guessing!!! Lol

[@cured_bacon647]

Zan Chen tf are you talking about

[@goodlyboony]

basically, you can't have fun

[@bloodking35]

fun is expensive

[@goodlyboony]

Lidiot Lee Quote of the century XD

[@dilithium72]

Yeah, I don't know anyone who bought these kinds of cars for their economical running costs and cheap parts! I certainly didn't.

[@goodlyboony]

dilithium72 And what you said is relevant to my comment because?

[@mackcummy4976]

Fast cheap ad reliable, you can't have all three.

[@Johnn_T]

Nothing under 98 octane in mine. Im amazed to be alive at a time when someone has to make a video about this!!! You forgot to mention Bore-Washing with excess unburnt fuel too. No complaints about your video, but I'm just amazed to be alive in a time where people know so little about turbo engine basics that it justifies making a video that gets a lot of hits!! I can only imagine today's generation in the turbos from the 1980s that didn't run ballbearings and instead ran bronze bushes , and everybody had a turbo timer!! Really wasn't that long ago either!

[@salsathe4th]

I've done all of these.....whoops

[@Nanorisk]

Achievement unlocked: living dangerously (15p)

[@TorutheRedFox]

-_-

[@kadajawi6567]

Oops indeed. To be honest I'm used to flooring the engine and shifting early. Oh well. Time to change that.

[@Vatsyayana87]

how could you be flooring it and early shifting? im guessing you mean at different times?? That just sounds like your not treating your car very well lol

[@kadajawi6567]

Basically I fully press the accelerator (without kick down, and the pedal is set to eco, so it is a bit gentler) starting from say 1100 rpm, and shift at 1500-1600 rpm, rinse repeat. I suppose that's not how you should do it... I'll try to keep it in mind.

[@killabandit]

Technically he is also wrong. The engine heats up faster than the coolant because the coolant gets hot from the engine getting hot first.

[@DanielSadjadian]

Does the engine block being hot mean that all the oil in the oil pan is at optimum temperature though?

[@esowaych]

That's true but The oil operating temp is higher than the coolant operating temp typically, so just because the coolant is hot enough it doesn't mean the oil will be.

[@nikhilb4516]

Thanks for the great detailing. I’am learning a lot from all your videos I’ve watched so far.

[@GokantheHusky]

I have a 2002 WRX and this is helpful. My car is in for a timing belt change. And I will definitely follow these advices.

[@StrahinjaRadinovic]

Much more love for n/a engines❤️

[@Dirtxbc]

Right after we turbo them.

[@craigjones8319]

Said no one ... Ever

[@digitalbath8577]

I love to climb steep hills in my subaru, i usually start off in 6th gear floored!

[@lancelefevre351]

5w30 is a measurement of how fast the oil flows cold and operating temp. Oil gets thinner as it gets hotter, this is true for single weight oil. Multigrade oil uses viscosity modifiers to thicken as they warm up. Unless you're using single weight oil in your car, no one does, you're really giving these people false information. You may want to specify what's really going on here. Just a thought.

[@mspenrice]

True, but unless you live somewhere with a very stable climate year-round, and one that tends towards the hot side at that, the oil will still thin out as it moves from being the same temperature as the ambient air (and where I am at the moment, that's about minus-3 celcius or high-20s farenheit) up to operating temperature (well over 90'C / 200'F - it sits a little hotter than the coolant, unless you happen to specifically have an oil cooler fitted). Multigrade oils are rather magical things in terms of *limiting* how much their viscosity changes with temperature, but I can run a very easy demonstration to show that they're still much thicker at ambient temperature than that of a warmed-through engine... it's known as "an oil change". Either on the car or my bike, but the latter is quicker and easier. Take the machine for a quick high-revs run around the block to heat up the engine and churn the oil up (so more of the dirt and other residue drains out with it) before starting work, so you're not sat on the driveway revving it for ten minutes annoying the neighbours, then hoist it on the mainstand, shove a suitable container underneath, and release the sump nut. See how the old, dirty oil splashes out like polluted river water, or maybe even faster and thinner. Run some engine flush into the filler hole if you like as well, and crank it a few times with the ignition disconnected, just to make sure you've got all the crap out. Now torque the sump nut back up and shove a funnel in the filler. Get yourself a nice new bottle of your favourite flavour of multigrade; I use 5w30 fully synthetic in the car, but the bike's a bit of a crock and is recommended for 10w40 semi-synth in this climate, and I'm not entirely convinced that's thick enough any more, the 20w50 mineral gunk might be better for it these days. Crack open the cap, and start pouring it into the funnel... oh! See how it's flowing much more slowly and appears to be a thicker substance? It is, however, just the same oil that came out a couple minutes earlier, merely much cleaner. You can confirm this by using a bottle of new oil in place of the engine flush - refill the engine, check the level, correct if necessary, then start it up and run through the same warmup as before... then empty the new oil out into a different container (you might, after all, want to put it straight back in if it doesn't carry much more cack out with it). It'll flow out like water just the same as the old stuff did. In both cases, don't let it splash on your hand any more than you can avoid (preferably, put a rubber glove on, which helps you avoid having hot oil soaking into your skin), because there's something of a risk of scalding yourself if it's got super hot... essentially, shallow frying your epidermis. If you want to simulate a "cold" (from the engine's perspective) start in a hot climate, soak the bottle for a while in a bowl with a 1:1 mixture of cold tap water and freshly boiled water, which should even out to about 60'C at first and fall down to 50, maybe 40'C depending how long you leave it (a thermometer is useful, but not essential). It'll pour into the funnel rather faster and more easily, but it still won't be as thin and splashy as what you emptied from the sump. (I find the latter quite a useful thing if refilling a manual transmission... they use rather thicker, high pressure oils, typically rated as 75w90 or higher because of how hot the gears and bearings can get, and whilst it's not too much bother to top them up if they've only lost a little oil, if they've leaked out completely or been deliberately drained for transport, it takes FOREVER to completely refill, and you can't be sure it's penetrated properly throughout before you take it for the first post-fill run... if you're doing it in winter, the stuff can set almost like treacle/molasses, forming into little peaks where the stream makes contact with the pool. Ten minutes soaking in near-boiling water makes it pour much faster and penetrate much better, more like room temperature 5w30...) This difference can be rather important inside an engine, especially on a cold winter's day, as some of the oilways - particularly inside the thin, high pressure pipes supplying and draining a turbo, which are essentially repurposed brake lines - can be rather narrow, and it's difficult for oil to penetrate through them properly if it's gone gloopy. That's the sort of thing special mixes like Magnatec are purportedly designed to partially combat, for example by leaving a thin film clinging to the cylinder walls whilst the engine's stopped instead of fully draining into the sump, so the piston rings aren't left wholly unlubricated at the next startup before the pump can push the initially glutinous oil up into the top gallery and it can bloop and trickle down from there into the cylinders and all the other places it needs to go. tl;dr if the climate is brassic, you don't really want to rev the engine much, maybe even move the car at all until you are yourself starting to feel a little warm inside the cabin, as the coolant begins to draw some heat from the warming engine and transfer it to the heater matrix. Preferably, if you can spare the time, not until you've been able to demist the inside of the screen using heater air alone, rather than the Ford Quickmist system or physical wiping. Only once the air blowing in is starting to reach a halfway comfortable temperature (maybe only 15 celcius, even, rather than 30+) can you be certain the coolant, and therefore also the oil, has warmed to any significant degree, and thus the oil is thin enough to be penetrating nicely through the engine. And, most importantly, to the turbo in a boosted engine... if the oil isn't getting to the bearing in any volume, you don't want to spool it up much, or at all if it can be helped. Warmer climates, you might well be OK to crank the starter and cane it straight away, but even then you need to give it a few seconds for the pressure to build to be completely safe, because when the engine's off most of the oil drains back into the sump and it takes a moment for the pump to lift any back to camshaft level, then a few more to build up normal operating pressure (which is what sends oil to the turbo). Again, that's something I can demonstrate with the bike, by taking the rocker cover off when it's cold and cranking the starter (it won't catch if I don't pull the choke)... oil will soon start bubbling, then gushing out of the primary oilway that runs up to the valve rockers, and making a bit of a mess as it spills out, but it's far from an instant occurrence. Until then, the moving parts are reliant entirely on whatever residue might still be clinging to them. Certainly if there were any fluid bearings in the head, they wouldn't be properly lubricated or supported for several seconds.

[@Billy_Darley]

holy crap! dont click read more on that dudes novel.

[@ahmadhajjo7282]

True, don’t click!

[@attocoulomb]

Multigrades don't thicken as they warm up, they just don't thin as much. You are the one giving false information.

[@Ray-xy6zn]

I just got my first turbocharged car and wanted to understand the science behind driving. Thanks for helping me get a little closer. For the alg

[@Billy_Darley]

*just bought my first turbo car. now i actually need to watch this. let the schooling begin.*

[@mad-meh2719]

How's that turbo doing?

[@Mile3500]

Thank you for writing the list in the description!

[@howardpower]

Lol too many things to remember. I just drive it normally lol. Newer cars like the one I have are changing older facts of not to do to your car. One example is premium fuel usage. I had a Kia Optima and now a Honda Civic. Both turbocharged. Factory recommendation is to keep using the 87 lower octane fuel as it runs most efficient for the type of motor it’s used for. All the other things contribute to the gradual wear and tear of the car we just can’t avoid. Otherwise, we won’t be driving them at all and I can’t baby my car forever. Sooner or later, I’m going to drive it like I stole it because of traffic conditions.

[@ImmortanDan]

That’s why he said it especially applies to performance-modded cars. Nowadays with direct injection there are plenty of turbo cars that can run on 87, but back when they a) weren’t the norm and b) had to make do with port injection most of them were 91+.

[@RyanSheppard]

So if your car is made for 87 octane fuel and you don't have any modifications you should buy the best quality 87 that you can buy. You say you should buy the highest octane you can get but I disagree. If your car is made for the higher octane or if it's modified for the higher octane then yes buy the higher octane. Octane doesn't rate fuel quality it rates temperature of combustion for the fuel. You need to follow whatever your engine was made for (or modified for) unless you are getting knocking, which was mentioned. If you're not having any issues with the fuel the engine was designed for (why would you) and you are using a high quality fuel then don't choose a higher octane. You should always use the highest quality (shell, chevron) but should use the octane your car was designed/modified for. Correct me if I missed something

[@TheLukey21]

I don't know about the not lugging your engine, I'm pretty certain they design engines with this scenario in mind and i don't believe a modern turbocharged car would be damaged in any way. If it was dangerous I'm pretty sure they would limit boost until higher rpm's.

[@EngineeringExplained]

This is generally what is done, but there are some cars which have experienced it stock on the market, and aftermarket tuners which limit boost until later on. I'll have a video explaining this in much greater detail soon!

[@TheLukey21]

+Engineering Explained I've heard of manufacturers limiting boost in the lower gears to prevent wheel spin but not for this. Looking forward to the more detailed video.

[@mwalstra8137]

look into low speed pre-ignition for why lugging turbo cars can be bad

[@fatman1288]

are you gonna do a video about what not do in a supercharged car?

[@Mr4512hkj]

Depends what kind of supercharger a centrifugal will be mostly like a turbo just belt driven. A roots or twin screw can be quite a handful if you're not used to it. Low engine speeds it will still build boost very quickly normally less than a second for peak boost in my experience which can either blow the tires out or make a lot of heat and possibly cause detonation. Also be very careful going around corners just like the turboed vehicles.

[@SuperSpetterpoep]

You should note that any modern turbo-car has a after-run electric (oil) pump, which helps cool down the turbo intime. Any proper car as well has both oil and watercooling going straight into your turbo.

[@largol33t1]

So in a 2016 VW GTI, where would I look to see if it has an electric cooldown pump?

[@Mr_Sh1tcoin]

All VW group cars have this; you can hear it after you switch off the engine. From an Audi S3 owner.

[@switchtr3]

What specifically do you mean by "modern"? Is that only brand new cars? Only the used ones that were cutting edge high tech when new? I have never owned a vehicle newer than 7 years old in my life, and I would still consider such vehicles to be "modern". Not everyone can afford a brand new vehicle, in fact most people can't. My current Subaru is turbocharged and has neither of those systems.

[@Mr_Sh1tcoin]

Cars from early 2000s started implementing it. Subaru's didn't until recently hence mid-to-late 2000 model Subaru's still had turbo timers.

[@sfbfriend]

NO they don't!

[@MaverickSpawn]

I could be wrong but even if lugging. Wouldn't the ECM prevent rich/lean mixtures?

[@pleasetakeasip4556]

I would think so, especially on the newer cars... The older cars weren't as advanced so that's what I would watch out for. I would think that the ecu would read that you aren't getting as much air so don't add as much fuel. But what do I know lol

[@Folopolis]

Yes, but it responds on the order of a tenth of a second, not quite fast enough for the first several ignitions. My thought is that at low RPMs, you're making almost no boost, so this should apply with naturally aspirated engines as well.

[@Folopolis]

Yes, but it responds on the order of a tenth of a second, not quite fast enough for the first several ignitions. My thought is that at low RPMs, you're making almost no boost, so this should apply with naturally aspirated engines as well.

[@MaverickSpawn]

Correction ECUs can respond as fast as as thousands of a second fast. e.g. 0.005 secs or 5 milliseconds.

[@M5Cookie]

I would think so, as most vehicles have MAF sensors or air flow meters which let the ECU or ECM know at any given time exactly how much air is being drawn into the engine and the ECM fuels accordingly..

[@boeingdriver29]

It’s not about using carful throttle on the exit, it’s about going into the corner in a gear that puts you in the meat of the power i.e. turbo already spun up. If you have a good handling car as you pass the apex you can give it the full beans and suffer next to no understeer or oversteer.

[@Montblanc1986]

so you never enjoyed any power slides in that car?

[@macky5066]

LoooL

[@MXL.14]

power sliding is gay, luckily I have N/A v8 to drift tf out of :D

[@zloychechen5150]

wat?

[@zloychechen5150]

Kevin Eichelberg he says he's gay.

[@seanlawrence7081]

you're subscribed to pewdiepie @mexalkid , you probably aren't even old enough to drive

[@devinthierault]

Hope saabkyle watches this video, he reva those poor cold audis.

[@devinthierault]

Revs

[@MirrorSlaps]

he's explained multiple times in his videos and the comments that he jump cuts to when the car has warmed up to rev it

[@svedka00]

He sucks

[@devinthierault]

+BandeFromMars dude I can link you to one where the a4 is clearly not off the pegs

[@ijustinw]

+Devin Tariel can you link?

[@confidentlocal8600]

"Don't lug the engine" I disagree in the context of any modern car with drive-by-wire throttle and especially direct injection. Lugging near peak torque is usually where brake specific fuel economy (BSFC) is best. The ECU can sense mass air flow and intake manifold air density (temperature and pressure) and has full control of injection timing (DI), ignition timing, pressure (DI) and injection duration, boost pressure, and throttle opening. If using the engine at a reasonable RPM in its allowed load range causes damage with the recommended fuel, there is an engine design or maintenance issue, or the manufacturer did a crap job mapping the ECU. If the throttle and mixture were manually controlled like with a turbocharged piston aircraft, then yes, lugging is a real concern. But modern cars get their best economy by "lugging" which is why automatic transmissions are programmed to keep the engine loafing around at low rpm as much as possible. And certainly, if you hear preignition pinging from the engine, ease off.

[@ThePentosin]

Peak torque doesnt happen until the turbo fully spins up. So not really lugging it anymore by that point.

[@NoahCharlesss]

ThePentosin my focus st hits peak torque at like 2200 rpm. so it doesn’t even hit boost

[@ThePentosin]

@@NoahCharlesss don't hit boost? I don't believe you. Which model and engine Focus do you have? If it's the stock 2 liter ecoboost, it already have full boost by 2200rpm. (also evident by the peak torque at 2200rpm)

[@NoahCharlesss]

ThePentosin yeah my comment was retarded. your right lmao. but yeah it’s good we don’t lug cause i like my focus and if it blows up it would be bad days. thanks dude lmao

[@ThePentosin]

@@NoahCharlesss well, good on you for realizing a minor mistake and not just doubling down. I like you!

[@johnwjeromejr]

Fortunately my Golf R has an oil temperature readout which I use continuously to monitor warmup and cool down. We are fortunate in Florida to have readily available 93 octane (needed to maximize my APR tune) along with a Shell rewards card (as Shell is one of the best gasolines).

[@JamesNoBrakes]

So basically how not drive a clapped out or old turbo car. Modern turbo designs (not all new cars address all of these, but most do) using the correct fuel don't suffer from most of these issues, due to turbos that circulate AFTER shutoff, turbos with max torque available at ridiculous low RPMs, engine control systems and so on. The reason his subaru has massive understeer is because the engine is mounted in front of the front axle.

[@EngineeringExplained]

+JamesNoBrakes weight distribution is only one of many, many variables that affects the balance of a car. It's not difficult to make a front engine car oversteer through suspension alterations, or even just tire pressure.

[@redactedcomment709]

+Engineering Explained nicely put!

[@jmackinjersey1]

And it is an all wheel drive vehicle, which handles completely different than a front or rear wheel vehicle.

[@JamesNoBrakes]

Yes, it's called polishing a turd. It's not that it's a front engine car, it's that the front engine is in a jacked up location, like the audis where they stuffed a V8 in front of the front axle. The moment of inertial and such will never work in your favor in such a car. As much as I liked my subaru, this was one of the Achilles Heals, and it has nothing to do with a turbo car or not. It just happens that his turbo car is like this because of the engine layout and drivetrain. Look at Camaro SS, Corvette, Ferrari where the engine center is behind the front axle, completely different story. Most cars are designed with understeer because it's deemed safer than oversteer, but what you experience at the limit in a subaru is best described as "massive understeer followed by snap-oversteer". This is one reason the Evo so handily beat the STI for many years and only when the EVO gained a bunch of weight with the X did it slow down a bit, but again driven at the limit, it's much more controllable than the Subaru.

[@jmackinjersey1]

+JamesNoBrakes . Yep. All cars have their different driving characteristics.

[@realbigtuna667]

5 years later and here we are with most new turbo 4 cyl cars using trans programming that intentionally lugs the engine to meet fuel economy and emissions standards.

[@nthgth]

Is anyone surprised that the "standards" are actively killing engines now? 😒 It wasn't enough that 2000s engines - including V-8s - were squeaky clean compared to when the EPA was formed and when smog was a thing. Nor that lots of people drive hybrids and EVs by choice so any damage is further mitigated.

[@Bairdogg]

Next up: 5 Things You Should Never Do in a Right Hand Drive Vehicle

[@nicoxis]

1) Do a LHD conversion

[@Daniel-aaaaa]

2) Never throw the mail and packages.

[@dogger20011]

3) Drive it

[@theben4steelers]

+Nissan jk

[@Ballacha]

5) mock those Wrong Hand Drive cars

[@unclemikeb]

Use synthetic engine oil in a turbo vehicle. It can take more heat than petrol oil. It is less likely to clog the oil tubing that feeds oil to the turbo. That is the hottest spot the oil must travel to, therefore the place where it is most likely to begin collecting and choking off the oil flow. 100% synthetic is best. There are synthetic blends but those still have some petrol composition.

[@jimn.9990]

Synthetic blends can have anywhere between 1% to 15% synthetic oil blended with petroleum oil, depending the each oil company!

[@Scrotum_69420]

so for the most part you should never have fun in any car... as a matter of fact just ride a bike. but I'm sure he will tell you what not to do with your bike.

[@chrismiller7866]

So #3, don't roll coal??

[@EngineeringExplained]

Haha, I think that much was obvious. :)

[@BMWAddictE90]

No. Don't be a douche

[@chrismiller7866]

+Engineering Explained Was that more for the fact it actually messes the engine, or for the dick factor?

[@Sens23Bruins]

straight pipe it and roll coal all day bahd

[@EngineeringExplained]

I'd imagine most of them are straight piped, so the exhaust is probably fine. I wouldn't be thrilled with someone dumping gasoline into a river. Equally, I'm not impressed by someone pointlessly dumping carbon/diesel emissions into our air.

[@freepadz6241]

You CAN shut you engine off immediately. Oil still circulates in the turbo despite the engine being off. T His did not used to be the case, but with modern turbo cars it is. How do you think manus are able to implement stop-start in turbo cars?

[@j.thomas7128]

You can shut down a hot turbo ONLY if the car is equipped with an oil re-circulator which most cars do not have. It's simply an electric oil circulator on a timer that engages when the engine is shut down. If you don't have this, then DO NOT shut down a hot turbo without a cool-down. What happens is called coking. It's bad.

[@wackomanx]

Jason is right. Basically a turbo timer.

[@richiejeffs3887]

modern cars with stop start can switch off whilst in "stop" because the engine isn't off long enough to have the oil cool down. most cars switch themselves back on after 5 minutes of not moving anyway as far as I'm aware (everyone I have driven has) so the oil can circulate again and stop the coking process.

[@vomitkermit3446]

some cars, especially euro cars will run an electric coolant pump and leave the fan on to cool the turbo while the engine is off.

[@libertyvirtual3985]

Very True, my oil in my Audi A5 burns way too fast, A5 cabriolet. I mess up the turbo. Every time I down shift the computer will spit out a RPM warning.. I was driving it like my A6 v6. Now I drive the A5 like an eggshell, slow turtle. I now understand. Thanks so much for this info.