500 Miles Of Valvoline Restore & Protect. The Good & The Bad.

[@A_Toolbag]

Update: the truck is fine. Had a sheared camshaft synchronizer drive gear, which also is responsible for driving the oil pump. Part not available but found a good used one. Replaced timing chain and oil pump to be extra safe. Truck hit the road today (after many delays) and sounds/runs great. Quick wrap-up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4bQqpmHht6YrsU Edit: Update on the Toyota and responding to the FRAM allegations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d56TlHyheZearZI

[@raceway3982]

To be cautious, how about a mix of 1/3rd Restore & Protect and 2/3rd regular? I change oil every 3k miles, but only after 300, then 500, etc. is a hassle. Thanks for the heads up!

[@lgoamity]

​​@@raceway3982I'd probably avoid "mixing" your own blend. Particularly if Deposit Removal is the objective... Valvoline claims "R&P" can/should be changed at a Regular Interval (basically what the factory suggests) and the Oil/ Filter "should not" be at risk of clogging up... If R&P is used as suggested. (They do also talk about continuous use and for best results to drain/fill "R&P" vs as a "top off" (I assume in "old/used" Oil) option. Basically, use it at "Full Strength" for intended use/results. I'm running "R&P" in my 2003 Saturn ION which has been burning Oil for several years and has been showing increased wear (Per Oil Analysis) over the same time frame as further proof. Luckily for me the Oil Filter is a Cartridge in an easy to access Filter Housing. So I will probably be checking it soon. The Oil still looks pristine (though at only 2.5 months and maybe 600 miles it should?) so I expect the filter to look similar... Early results though it isn't burning and it is running/sounding good. (Not that it was bad before but at almost 192K miles and the Analysis/Burn I wouldn't be surprised if my next Analysis comes back with higher signs of wear and/or it developing some "new" noises/issues if the Engine was near its "End of Life". But so far so good... If that analysis (and filter inspection) comes back with good results I'm likely going to use it on my AWD 2.4L Ecotec 2014 GMC Terrain (even though it isn't Dexos Rated)... Since that Engine (well Model anyway since mine specifically seems to be doing well at 113K) has various issues with the PCV system (Clogging/Pressure Blowing Out Rear Main Seals), GDI (Oil Dilution), VVT Solenoids, and GM setting the OLM Limits much too high (7500 miles/12 months vs 3000-5000 miles/3-6 months that many owners use)

[@owenhill-vf7ko]

Self-inflicted due to neglect. This oil is awesome! We are using it along with many customers with zero problems and great results for over 8 months and many oil changes!

[@petershulick5270]

You could have prevented any damage to your engine or caused by a oil pump or otherwise by using motorkote It bonds with the metal surfaces of your engine with a super slippery surface and reduces friction roughly around 95% preventing a lot of the metal particles ending up in your engine oil filter

[@petershulick5270]

You could have prevented any wear to your engine or caused by a friction or otherwise by using motorkote It bonds with the metal surfaces of your engine with a super slippery surface and reduces friction roughly around 95% preventing a lot of the metal particles ending up in your engine oil filter

[@tradingnichols2255]

You know what? I'm glad you recommended the Motor Oil Geek so much. KZbin is smart. I watch Lake all the time, so your comments brought me to your video very happily. Great video!

[@alexmaclean1]

It's amazing how much difference oil can make. I use synthetic in everything and change it at 5k miles. $40 for oil and a good filter is cheaper than all the problems a gummed up engine leads to.

[@18_rabbit]

yep and most top spec synthetics are on amazon for under 30$, even under 25 now! Penzoil , Castrol included

[@A_Toolbag]

Same here. Walmart here even has full synthetic Havoline 6-quart boxes for $25. Solid oil by all accounts and a great price.

[@sixpest]

Switch to 40w oil if you live in a hot climate with a truck or suv and 5 quarts can and will be as cheap as 15 dollars. WITH all the added benefits of Heavy Duty engine oil that's used on big rigs and tractors! its a big win

[@tarquineous]

@@sixpest Straight 40 weight is the wrong oil for any auto or light truck. It will become too thick under 60 degrees F. Use close to recommended weight, or the recommended weight, especially during the first 40,000 miles. The thick oil will push open the bypass valve and allow unfiltered oil into the engine. Also, the thick oil will not fly up to the cylinders from the crankshaft adequately. The only place in the world where straight weight oil can be used is around the equator, or with engines equipped with a block heater.

[@2seep]

@@sixpestreally depends. Oil weight is chosen by the clearances in the bearings. Sure at high temperatures the oil will match the bearing specifications, but at 70 degrees and lower which is typically at night time will starve your engine of oil as it won’t be able to fit in the bearings.

[@jamram9924]

We’re using this oil in our shop. We’ve been using BG EPR flush. BG Automotive has a very long history of producing excellent products with great results. We switched over the Wix XP engine oil filters and use them with this Valvoline Restore and Protect. As a precautionary measure we’re just changing the engine oil and filter at 3,000 for the first and second engine oil changes. Then, we’re returning to the regular 5,000 mile interval. Our Southern AZ heat stresses our engine and drivetrains in general.

[@A_Toolbag]

Do you tend to do a BG flush before running R&P?

[@jamram9924]

@@A_Toolbag I wouldn’t use any flush with this Valvoline Restore & Protect. Why? Their claim is that it will clean your piston ring landings and other engine components over 3-5 engine oil changes. If your engine has a bit more sludge and you decide this oil, just replace the engine oil filter at 2,000 miles, top off with oil and then replace your oil again at 4,000. Oil and filters are relatively inexpensive compared to a new engine.

[@rushdrift]

is bg epr safe for car around 300k km / 186k miles?

[@sheldondrewett4123]

Purolater boss > wix

[@jamram9924]

@@sheldondrewett4123 Mann+Hummel = Wix and Purolator. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@LuminairPrime]

100% agree with replacing oil filters very frequently when running anything that mentions "cleaning" on the label! Thanks for taking apart the filters.

[@MichaelDavis-cy4ok]

A buddy of mine needed a cheap car very badly as he was going through some serious financial problems. I had a relative who had a badly abused Chrysler Cirrus with a 2.8L V6 that I was putting a timing chain into for her. The 2.8L was notorious for sludge death, and she had thrashed on it pretty hard. I told him not to pay more than $400 for the car, because that's what the junkyard would have paid for it at the time. He bought it for $400. When I started the timing chain, the oil was all sludge. I was surprised the thing hadn't seized. We put in some fresh 5W-30 with Marvel Mystery oil and a filter, and we ran it for half an hour. Then we changed the oil and filter (with more Marvel Mystery Oil). What came out was some of the nastiest oil this side of sludge I had ever seen. We ran that batch for several hours and did another oil and filter change, with another batch of Marvel Mystery Oil; that batch came out very nasty, but better. The following week we did a final oil and filter change and of course added more Marvel Mystery Oil. It was now only looking like used motor oil that had needed changing. My friend got another year out of that trashed Chrysler. Then he was able to upgrade to something used but not beat on. My lesson was learned. Cleaning the sludge out of an engine can border on working miracles, even with a German 2.8L V6 in a thrashed Chrysler from the 90s.

[@happygarage6310]

It's good to see some real-world results. And great to see the oil living up to the claims.

[@jeffcarello7446]

Before anyone makes a comment about Valvoline Restore and Protect they better do some research before they make themselves look like an idiot. This isn’t your daddy's or grand pappy's oil. It's been under development for years and has very unique properties that other oils don't have. It's a game changer as far as lubrication is concerned... nothing like it currently on the market.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

Pfft that's where you are wrong pal, I've looked like an idiot for years already

[@bletchdroshek5984]

​@@robertmaybeth3434😂

[@Daniel-qe8qe]

So you're a chemical engineer?

[@jeffcarello7446]

@@Daniel-qe8qe No, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...

[@Daniel-qe8qe]

@jeffcarello7446 totally qualified, I apologize sir.

[@dannyx117]

I have a 2008 Subaru Forester 2.5 Sport X non turbo, 175000 miles on it. i was burning 1 quart after 400 miles. Started using Valvoline R&P with Fram TG6607 Filter. After the 4 th oil change, 3000mile intervals, my car drives and runs like a dream.

[@A_Toolbag]

Is oil consumption practically gone or just reduced?

[@kalybnielsen4183]

I drove my Cavalier about 20-25,000 miles a year, it wasn't particularly easy driving but I was religious on the oil changes, every 5,000 miles with regular Quaker State, when the car was pushed into a jersey barrier, it had 275,063 miles on it, after I got the engine pried out of the car, I pulled it apart to rebuild it for another car, it was spotless, there was not 1 speck of sludge in it. I have worked on vehicles that had 30,000 that were absolutely gross. Change your oil religiously and you engine will last much longer aside from mechanical failure

[@outwiththem]

A Chevy Cavalier wont go to that mileage .. LOL...

[@IronMike-f8i]

​liar,, my granny has 346.000 miles on hers.

[@A_Toolbag]

Cavalier will go that long and longer, the trouble is that most Cavalier OWNERS will not do what it takes to get it that far. Same issue that plagues many Pontiacs.

[@nikkoBcool]

I had a coworker back in the day that bought a 2005? cavalier with 30k on the clock, he was close to 200k and said he had zero issues with the car, just changed his oil regularly, all he did was regular stuff like brakes and tires, everything else is original. I currently have a 2006 grand vitara, had it since 117k miles, I used to change my oil about every 7k miles, granted it was mineral oil not synthetic and should have been 3k for mineral or 4.5k for synthetic, even then, it's currently at 230k and has not had any engine problems yet.

[@nickv4073]

What you proved is that if you do on time oil changes religiously then you don't need to deal with products like Restore and Protect. I'm with you on that.

[@JW-ke9ed]

Thanks for making this video and glad I saw it. I just did a Restore & Protect oil change on my 2006 Dodge Magnum RT AWD 5.7 with 140,000 miles, one month ago. It has less than 150 miles since the oil change, but will be changing the filter out once it hits 3-500 miles.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

I was thinking about trying the same thing on my Solara V6, but I'll change at 2,500 - if I don't, it'll keep me up at night thinking about it actually. If and when the oil filter clogs, the driver has no way of knowing it. The engine just routes the oil through the bypass valve, sans filtration, until the filter gets changed again.

[@JW-ke9ed]

@@robertmaybeth3434 My car has about 800 miles since the oil change and the oil is still clear so I'm holding off on changing the oil filter. I'll just regularly check the oil level and color until the next oil change.

[@andrewszucs8161]

I have dealt with many engines with sludge problems over the last 45 years. This oil sounds like it should be good stuff. I have a suggestion that might be worth considering. Before using this oil to clean out the engine, it would be a good idea to remove the valve cover and the oil pan, to clean out as much sludge as possible first. Then I would run the vehicle for about 150 miles and remove the filter for inspection

[@TejasToolMan]

we used to fill with red diesel in a hot engine run a few mins, an ounce in each cylinder for the oil rings let sit a week then drain

[@A_Toolbag]

In a perfect world I'd love to be able to pull the pan and covers to clean extra, but on some vehicles that can take it from a $100 oil change to $1,000 or more in parts and labor. Hard sell.

[@Skilful_basics8]

On flex fuel vehicles if you run a few tanks of flex fuel every once in a while, doesn't that help keep sludge down too?

[@mikesabota2570]

Try doing that on an Atlas I6😂😂.. It's easier to just change the oil and filter with good quality stuff at regular intervals!!👍👍

[@overbuiltautomotive1299]

@@A_Toolbag 1000.oo f that crawl under in and diy

[@victorstandiford9724]

So, double filter changes between drain intervals for a prescribed time. At some point, the engine is supposed to be clean. Then, go back to routine maintenance. It is pretty straightforward.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

That seems like a better idea than just changing the oil along with the filter at that early inteval - cheaper anyway. I'm thinking about doing this on my 2001 Solara with 280,000 miles. I figure it's worth a try, but everything about this oil seems like just an engine flush on half speed. And the Solara the V6 is one of the infamous "sludge recall" engines. If you plan on changing an oil filter in 2500 miles, you can use anybody's cheapo on-sale filter even a Fram, that filter will not filter the volume of oil enough to clog up. This Restore and protect seems like the greatest idea since tubeless tires, which is the first reason I am a little skeptical. Even Valvoline knows the type of car owner that is going to buy this oil, cares enough about his engine that he/she is already a car maintenance fanatic, that changes their oil way more often than the "average owner". Who is completely indifferent to the $40,000 investment in their driveway, and barely remembers their car is a thing that needs an "oil change, once or twice a year, or is it every two years?".

[@gidderman]

If you leave the oil in there with all the trash floating around in it, a double filter change isn't going to get it out. Drain the oil... The oil is a container for dirt, the filter doesn't catch all of it, changing the oil, removes the dirt with it....

[@steveallen1340]

This is what I thought initially but I’m not so sure about this method now. This method assumes that the oil is clean enough to keep using but the filter is clogged. The filter doesn’t get dirty unless the oil brings contamination to it. The filter is not fine enough to completely clean the oil. I’d be concerned that if the oil was dirty enough to clog the filter then it’s to contaminated for continued use.

[@srmackin]

This is an awesome advertisement for Valvoline

[@cdburlock]

Go watch the video at The Motor Oil Geek, He goes to the Valvoline test facility in Kentucky. Or don't.

[@genesmith4019]

@@cbryants Me too. My 911S is as well. So are the twin SBCs in my motor boat. The Volvo wagon agrees. All run Valvoline VR1 and run perfectly. You should use Castrol. It is perfect for you.

[@genesmith4019]

@@cbryants Thanks. Hard work. Get up earlier.

[@genesmith4019]

@@cbryants You like necrophilia? We could've guessed.

[@BonkersBaja]

I am absolutely over the moon with R&P. I have an 06 forester with about 120k. Been pretty well maintained since 60k when I purchased it. It has always run basically well, but not as quiet or smooth as a similar 08 vehicle we also own. I've tried injector cleaners and various oil additives but no real improvement. Then I added a Frantz bypass filter and did an oil flush, rinse with cheap new oil, and finally fill with R&P. Almost imediately it was noticeably quieter from what I suspect is greatly reduced blowby from carboned up rings. The idle is now very smooth. The fuel economy has gone up from 25-26.5 mpg to 27-29 mpg which is in line with the original EPA rating of 28 mpg. My recommendation would be to oil flush first, then do a couple filter changes during initial oil change interval.

[@tdavids4506]

What oil flush did you use?

[@BonkersBaja]

@@tdavids4506 I did a Berryman's B12 flush on an already operating temperature engine. On their website, Berryman's recommends up to 2 oz per qt of oil. I wanted to use the whole can so I first removed 1qt of old oil from my oil sump. I then put on a new oil filter (very important) and then added the whole 15oz can of b12 and 1qt of valvoline 60wt racing oil to offset the thinning in viscosity from the B12. That was likely overkill but I tend to be OCD with things like that. I held at a high idle of 2000-2500 rpm for 15 minutes. I wouldn't put engine under heavy load by driving it with that much solvent in the oil. Drain, put in new cheap oil for a rinse and idle for additional 5-10 minutes. Drain again and put a (second extremely important) new oil filter on. Fill with R&P.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

@@BonkersBaja As a mechanic, I was always afraid of flushes, because the customers that needed them, were way past needing them and destruction felt too likely, but then I got to using them on engines well cared for, like engines I've maintained, and learned they're of great value and bring a younger performance back. But you know how it is, if you work in a shop, you don't know a customer car's history and they're like, I want an oil flush. My stomach sinks. I'm like, you want what now?

[@robertmaybeth3434]

...you are probably right about flushing the engine before using this oil. But I'm very reluctant to use harsh solvents in my engine, even if it is for only 20 minutes. I don't really know if my caution is completely justified or not but I used to work for a fleet, and I've actually seen engines destroyed by a little ATF in the crankcase...so I prefer to use a more mild solvent, like maybe a pint of Marvel mixed in the oil.

[@kerrylewis2581]

Great advice. Change at 300 and evaluate. Change again at 300, evaluate, and then spread out the intervals accordingly.

[@cdburlock]

Kerrylewis You mean 3000 miles

[@kerrylewis2581]

@@cdburlock No, I meant 300 miles. Valvoline states on its website that you do not need to replace it before the oil change, but what if the engine is internally filthy?

[@cdburlock]

So, you meant 300 kerrylewis

[@2Truth4Liberty]

@@cdburlock 300 miles, but change the FILTER, not the OIL.

[@lgoamity]

@@2Truth4Liberty Probably going to be changing my 2.4L Ecotec (2014 AWD GMC Terrain) to VRP today... Will be the perfect time to check-in on my Saturn's VRP Oil change (Filter) with around 3 months/600 miles so far. Maybe take a sample for Analysis

[@slscamg]

I used this oil for the first time in my 3.6 Pentastar with 55k miles. Bought it used at 19k miles and they just had followed the OLM. Once I got it, I’ve been doing 5k oil changes. I have about 2500 miles on the restore and protect, this has me wanting to go outside and check what the oil filter looks like.

[@vladimpaler9274]

I just hit 172,000 miles in my 2010 Dodge avenger and always use Valvoline synthetic oil and change it every 3-5 thousand miles. I just changed my oil and I'm using the restore and protect for the first time and I'm probably gonna use it from now on 👍🏻

[@opera93]

LET US KNOW what Happens Oil !!! Thanks,just had ( @my Point S Shop)my Dodge Journey 4 CYL//GDI: *RP VALVOLINE 5W-20, & VALVOLINE Oil Filter @110,000 miles..However, **I plan on PUROLATOR BOSS ,new **Filter onlyIn **less 1000 miles…..( Dodge had six + years ,strict 3000 miles OCI’s , of MOPAR (;HAVOLINE?)CONVENTIONAL OIL),,, let us know??? *( I doing myn2007 CANYON 4CYL @. 1470000 miles next week, had years of mostly Synthetic MOB1, & good/ extra Oil Filters….

[@opera93]

Thanks, VALVOLINE R& P users,**let us know Results, & Conditions of USES!!!! Please

[@doyletech623]

Thank you . I was thinking that I would have to change my filter at 1k but now thanks to your video I'll do it at 300 then every 500 with this first oil change using this oil

[@silvercommander]

How can u just change the filter without making a huge mess?

[@A_Toolbag]

@silvercommander Very carefully.

[@doyletech623]

@silvercommander so far I haven't figured that part out . I've just got better at making a smaller mess

[@silvercommander]

@@doyletech623 👍🏼👍🏼 i change my oil every 5k like a clock. And drive between 800-1k miles a week.

[@j5962]

Bro... thank you so much for making this video. I'm changing my filter today. 436k on my 3rd gen 4runner. Just hit 1k on restore with oem filter.

[@A_Toolbag]

Did you happen to open up the filter?

[@owenhill-vf7ko]

​@@A_Toolbagdude stop the silliness. Your car was abused and not maintained. Then you post this nonsense that has others scared for no reason. We have seen Zero issues on Valvoline restore and protect. 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder

[@RonnieYoung-zx8wu]

I use Valvoline oil all the time I have no problems using my race car I have no problems this guy scares me

[@fordresurrectionest9556]

I'm running this oil. I checked my filter at 500 miles and saw no sludge. So far, the 2nd oil filter is at 1,500 miles. I'm going to push it for another 500 miles. I got my filters at Amazon for $6 bucks a pop. So I got me 12 filters.🤙👍

[@ajmedeiros77]

Man that engine must have been badly neglected. Wow. I’ve seen many other restore and protect videos and none of them had sludge like that even at a few thousand miles. Hopefully that engine isn’t already damaged. Best of luck thanks for the video.

[@aaronthomas6155]

Ford's 4.2ltr is pretty bad for sludge.....

[@stoveguy2133]

Plugged filter will then be in bypass mode.

[@calvinwalker4654]

I’m not even a mechanic and I know a clogged oil filter won’t drop oil pressure.

[@btwbrand]

Depends on the design of the filter and the design of the oil filter housing. Some engines have no bypass and installing a filter without a bypass can clog the lubricationsystem and starve the engine of oil. I've personally experienced this and avoided damage by taking note of the oil pressure indicator illuminating and the gauge bottoming out while driving. Pulled over got another filter spun it on and continued on my way. The filter was HEAVY.

[@meair]

not a great idea to send engine sludge through the engine

[@Taydrum]

@@meair Or worse, wear metals

[@skjdhdh]

​@@meairyeah...but so much better than running the engine without oil.

[@ron2368]

If you checked the dipstick regularly wouldn't you be able to see the contamination level of the oil. For a filter to look like that the oil must be noticeable black and thick.

[@A_Toolbag]

Yes, oil is dark. I don't know if the owner checked the oil in the 500 miles since having it changed.

[@cdburlock]

I have witnessed an engines that the oil turns black within 90 miles. It was an older engine with blowby on the rings. The EGR also recirculates and contributes to the oil changing color.

[@zh7205]

Very good advice for those who have no idea how powerful this oil is, I am definitely gonna try on mine

[@tonycowger4560]

This is why I change my oil every 4k miles with Walmart supertech fully synthetic oil and mobile 1 oil filter my truck is coming up on 350k miles never had anything internal go bad on it 5.3 last forever just change your oil right guys its under 30$ for oil and filter and takes less than 15 minutes

[@jamesfarmer2748]

2000 silverado with a 5,3 also on the verge of 300k, been doing oil changer every 3 or 4k miles with super tech or havoline since i bought it in 2005, engine feels like it could do another 200k , friend of mine was using Mobil one and pushing his oil changes to 10k miles and is having lifter issues after 270k

[@313DETROIT]

Facts

[@issavibez394]

Junkk

[@thekingofnoobs8362]

So let me get this straight you'll get a 15 dollar oil filter then get cheap oil

[@issavibez394]

@thekingofnoobs8362 ye i know right bro not making any damn sense bro why go cheap on oil at least get quality oil super tech is junkk

[@jeffgriffith7003]

I’m glad I found this video, I just bought a 2004 Toyota with variable valve timing, all my other vehicles are older without this tech. I was also concerned about running too much detergent through this newer engine out of fear it may clog VVT solenoid screens.

[@GABRIEL_CRAFT]

Valvoline restore and protect works great for Toyota engines with low tension piston rings. But it's a great idea to change out the oil and filter early after the first time of use. I've used this oil twice and have reduced consumption of oil on a 2006 Toyota Prius with 312k miles from 2 quarts every 1k miles to .75 quarts Great product

[@JoshuaXiong]

Why not use Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy?

[@chieftainnn2093]

thanks for this info! I'm about to switch to this on the 2013 Venza with only 128k. I'm having an excessive ammount of blow by oil coming out of the intake due to piston rings.

[@GABRIEL_CRAFT]

Because it doesn't clean like Restore and Protect.​@@JoshuaXiong

[@jamesbarton818]

Im sticking with Mobil 1

[@taroitofilau3983]

Thank you for sacrificing your customers cars so that we may survive. On a serious note, thanks for the advice and great video. Cheers

[@JimSix-jo6hf]

I just did a sludge engine, a 1978 chevy small block with only 37,000 miles, I did replace the oil pan, removed the intake, cleaned what I could, but you can not get it all, I had not heard of this oil at that time it would have been perfect, so I used VR1 racing oil and a high flow racing filter, changed oil and filter at 500 miles, running great, may give this a try next oil change

[@JG-kv4oi]

Probably want to stick with the VR1 as it has zinc additives for your flat tappet camshaft which modern oils have removed. If you want to clean the motor add 3 or 4 Oz of Seafoam 500 miles before your oil and filter change.

[@JimSix-jo6hf]

@@JG-kv4oi yes after thinking about it I agree it does have 1.6 rockers thank you for the good advice!!!

[@oby-1607]

We bought a van and didn't know its service history. We changed the oil and filter as it should be several times and one day it didn't have oil pressure. I was away and my brother added oil to it so my wife could get home. Even with the added oil, it had very low oil pressure. When I got home, I checked the oil level and the dipstick said it was way over full. Because the van was used when we bought it, I decided to pull the oil pan and check the pump. Sure enough the pickup was plugged with solid pieces that had become dislodged from the new oil and detergents now being used. The pan had about almost an inch of carbon deposits and other chunks that had obviously fallen down from the engine. I cleaned the oil pan and as much as junk that was on the engine. With fresh oil and filter, I changed the oil very week for a month and it seemed to clean up. The van served us for a couple of years until we sold it. I believe what caused this was poor engine maintenance from the previous owner and probably never had its oil changed. This video seems staged because if the engine had regular oil changes, the sludge doesn't build up that quickly for a detergent oil to break it up.

[@outwiththem]

Engine Flush will do that on one shot.

[@IronMike-f8i]

IT WORKS🎉🎉❤​@@outwiththem

[@A_Toolbag]

The owner of this truck had somewhat irregular oil changes from my understanding.

[@outwiththem]

@@A_Toolbag Some rather buy meth or football tickets. then lie about how good maintaining they are. Democrats..

[@IamJay02]

How and why the fuck would anyone stage this? Lol

[@cstgx]

The oil pick up screen is what you should be worried about clogging. Filters will bypass. If your filter looks like that you ahould drop your oil pan and clean it out and check your intake screen. If that plugs you will starve the engine

[@A_Toolbag]

Ran the oil pump by itself with the filter off since this engine allows for that, we have great oil delivery. No sludge in the drained oil either. Looks like it didn't free up anything coarse enough to clog the pickup, just the filter.

[@harvestblades]

That's what happened I'm my '00 jeep cherokee 4.0 200 miles after doing a hot engine flush. It resulted in a spun main crank bearing.

[@kevinleukhardt9560]

I have used Amsoil ATF as an engine flush before converting a higher mileage vehicle over to Amsoil full synthetic engine oil. I was doing automotive work on the side as a young military guy and did quite well. I remember converting an Army Major's GMC pickup over to Amsoil. It had about 96,000 miles on the proven 350 V-8. After 1000 miles, we put the truck on the lift and the Major watch the oil coming out when I removed the drain plug. No sludge, but very, very dark dirty oil. I asked him if he would be Ok to pull the valve covers to inspect for sludge and he agreed. The left and right rockers and pushrods were pretty free of sludge, but did have some varnish buildup on both sides. We ran another 1 quart of synthetic ATF to Valvoline engine oil and after 1,500 miles the engine was then cleaned up enough to run Amsoil for 3000 miles for an interval checkup. It was pretty dirty, but the rockers and pushrods on both sides were cleaner up after 3,000 miles. So, I asked the Major if he wanted to spend money on a fresh Amsoil change, and he did. After 5,000 miles the oil on the dipstick was still fairly clear. He was very surprised. If you are wondering what oil he was using for around 80,000 miles after buying the truck used; It was conventional Pennzoil and Quaker State 10W-30--He said whatever was on sale--Uh Oh! I am very reluctant to use an engine flush on any engine, just because chunks of sludge or carbon can clog the oil pickup screen and lead to heavy engine wear or damage.

[@A_Toolbag]

Amsoil is amazing stuff if you can get the customer to pay for it! I'm hesitant about flushes too, especially with all the VVT stuff and hyper-sensitive timing chains on some engines.

[@Elevationem]

I think the difference we are seeing here is the Toyota had regular oil changes, where the Ford may have not. The Restore and Protect probably wasn’t doing much in the Toyota due to it already being clean from regular maintenance, whereas in the ford it was doing a lot because of the lack thereof.

[@Happy11807]

I have been doing my own maintenance and repairs since replacing the fiber timing gear on my 51 Chevy 6 cylinder in 1963. I have changed my oil, filters and did required maintenance at 3000 miles on every vehicle since! I have had a lot of vehicles since,AMC,JEEP,FORD, AND SINCE 1993 Jeeps and Rams,NO ENGINE OR MAJOR PROBLEMS,EXCEPT ONE TRANS REBUILD AT 170,000,miles on a 96 Ram. OIL CHANGES AND GOOD MAINTENANCE ELIMINATE MOST PROBLEMS!

[@owenhill-vf7ko]

We just did a 2015 F150 Ecoboost with 128k miles on Valvoline Restore and Protect. Because the owner saw this silly video they returned at 800 miles. We removed the oil filter as requested and to prove they wasted money cut it open in front of the customer. It was crystal clear and clean!!

[@A_Toolbag]

Sorry for the hassle. Glad his turned out well.

[@sixpest]

yeah that customer is special. a 2015 truck is not going to have tons of gunk to begin with.

[@Roy-ij1wq]

Thanks for your post. I have a 3.5 ecoboost in my 2015 Expedition. It had the infamous phaser rattle when I bought it had 157k from a dealer and I think it was caused by deferred maintenence. I had the dealer change the oil before I took delivery and later discovered that they didn't empty the aftermarket catch can because they didn't know what it was. They also used Motocraft blended oil which is no longer recommended. The catch can was full of gunk and I immediately cleaned it. After 3k miles I changed the oil to Mobil 1 full synthetic and began to change it at 5k intervals using Penzoil Ultra Platinum. The phaser rattle went away at around the 170k mark and the truck is now running smooth. But since the 2015 Ecoboost is single port direct injection, I decided to try the new Valvoline in case there is coking on the valves and to possibly clean the turbo filters. I'm not going to change the filter as suggested in the video but I am going to cut the filter open when I next change the oil. As a side note, I recommend installing a catch can based on the gunk I see but only if you know how to empty and clean it. If it is not emptied, it will do more harm than good.

[@pjpankratz8829]

If they kept up on the oil changes then yeah that could be the case - I would rather be safe than sorry for cost of the oil filter and your service fee.

[@owenhill-vf7ko]

​@@sixpestTry going 10k miles on Ecoboost with that dealer blend oil and see what I have seen at 100k miles inside those engines.....

[@gabe6959]

this is good information. i started using this on my moms 2018 Velar which has 76k miles on it. i’m gonna check that filter and see what’s up. i changed the oil a week ago, so i’m gonna give it 1000 miles or so before checking the filter.

[@lamarc2634]

Very informative video I just bought this oil and a Purolator Boss filter, I think I'll buy a few more & change them. Oil filters are cheap a new engine isn't

[@18_rabbit]

boss pretty spendy at 15$ now

[@DominusDionysos]

@@18_rabbit Advance auto parts is currently offering an oil change bundle with free oil filter which includes the boss filter, in store & online. Only knew about this because I looked. makes me wonder how long this has been going on because I've been purchasing my oil from walmart and going cheap on the flter.

[@opera93]

@@18_rabbityes, at here in HELENA, MT, ADVANCE AUTO…

[@theguy1224]

Great video. I'm not really a valvoline type of guy but i have used this oil in the past in my brother' mazda 2. And the first change i did with this oil in it, the oil came out almost the same way. With only 1200 miles.

[@brenthann2623]

The filter should have went into bypass if it did clog

[@TROOPERfarcry]

_THIS._

[@restore56]

its a fram, i think this is the cux of the issue

[@JimSix-jo6hf]

even a new filter will bypass 80% of the oil going through it it is there to collect sludge and make it easy to get rid of it, it will not get it all

[@6atlantis]

@@restore56crux

[@robertmaybeth3434]

The car might have been running for many miles with the oil filter clogged and bypassed, and the driver would never even know it.

[@TheTwelly]

If you had paid attention to the oil guys at the Valvoline facility, it was mentioned that oil filter overload is a problem, especially on used, older engines. You are actually trying to do a total fill of engine flush. Perhaps you should have done the standard can of oil flush beforehand, then use the Valvoline with a new oil filter. Can you imagine what those engines look like inside after all those years of use. Using this oil in a new engine will keep it cleaner for the future. 👍

[@carl2591]

the ford engine was most likely on the way "out of dodge".. the Restore oil is designed to work on normal build up over a 3-5 oil change schedule.. if you are getting this much this soon is a problem.. way too long between changes or not enough run time between crackups. I had a similar issue on my daughters 2005 elantra with her driving to school in winter and the school being like 5 miles or less from our house.. the engine did not get to operating temp to burn the moisture out which is the leading cause of sludge in engines. I out some card board in front on radiator and had her run in 3rd gear to keep RPM up and that helped to get it a bit warmer.. Lucking in Raleigh NC we dont get a lot of super cold days over a 2 month period for the most part.. W= I would open the oil fill cap and see what looked like mustard color moisture under the cap.. I would take car on weekend and use it to run around getting some good heating cycles of the oil to keep it under control.. lack of engine heating in cold weather especially is what cause most of the sludge combined with TOOOO long oil changes.. you can go 5-7K mile on normal operation when the engine get up to temp for a bit.. Lake Speed Jr did a great video on the oil at the lab Valvoline test oil in. all engines will be some build up just from normal usage.. nature of the beast with gas engines.. use LP/propane and the issues goes away..

[@Davido50]

No it means the Ford 4.2L Triton wasn't very well maintained during its life. These are legendary engines for longevity. He never said it didn't run well. Just that a timing gear maybe on its way out. Guarantee it's got near 300k mis or close!

[@pedlpower]

Glad you posted this. Next oil change in my wife's outback will be r&p. Engine in good condition. I'll probably change the filter half way through at 2500 miles.

[@JimSix-jo6hf]

unless this Subaru has a carbon or sludge problem, Pennzoil platinum woul be a better choice, it has some cleaners but also has less carbon in the base oil as it is refined from natural gas, not crude oil, the best way to prevent sludge is to not pour it in at an oil change

[@Chicagoguy1984]

Valvoline is great oil in general !! Years ago I picked up a 07 Crown Vic ex highway patrol unit that sat for a few years and the valvoline daily protection blend cleaned out the motor so good I had to do 3 oil changes in 2 months before it stayed clean !!👀😳😳😳

[@A_Toolbag]

That puts a smile on my face, those Crown Vics are some of the last really beautiful cars to come out and it's a shame to see how they're usually abused. Glad you're taking good care of it. 👍

[@Chicagoguy1984]

@@A_Toolbag yup I sold that one since it was a SAP admin unit and a security company owner wanted it as his personal car🤑 and I now have 2004 and 09 police Vic’s in my personal fleet 👍😎🤟🏻

[@j_mm1084]

Same thing with my k24 Honda engine look like crap when I bough it from the importer after 4 oil changes big difference after popping the valve cover off most of the dark brown gold stuff is gone

[@nsomniac9288]

Thank goodness this video came up in my feed. I just did my oil change with 3qt of the restore and protect and 2 quarts Napa oil be changing my filter in 2 weeks and get a platinum Napa filter in place of the gold I got

[@hotrodray6802]

Why are you mixing additives ??

[@direfox240]

First easy free check anyone can do. Remove the oil cap. Check both the underside of the cap and as much of the inside of the engine you can see. The more gold the better, or best of all silver(clean steel/aluminum). The more dark brown or black residue the worse. Personally switched to this oil roughly 6k miles ago and recently had to change my oil pan gasket. I was pleasantly surprised. Most things I dried off with a shop towels, lost some or all of the paint like, hard brown oil residue. More recently I changed the valve cover gasket. No brown/gold anywhere, like freshly hot tanked.

[@zoneadmin-n6c]

I used a liqui moly engine flush for the sludge, first. Ran it for 15 minutes. No filter issues and no oil pressure warnings using Valvoline R+P.

[@CarsSimplified]

Definitely some interesting stuff in this video! I have some VR&P ready for my next oil change and now I plan on doing a test like this. On a side note: I tried the tin/aviation snips approach for cutting open oil filters recently with a brand new set of green handle Wiss snips (and afterwards tried an old yellow handle unknown brand to be sure) and it's not easy on a filter with a thick case.

[@A_Toolbag]

Yep, not the easiest way to cut them, but it works and it stops a fancy oil filter cutter from just collecting dust if it's not something you'll use often.

[@crash4dafun]

I'm a plumber and just curious if anyone has tried cutting the filter open with a rigid #20 tubing cutter?

[@eclectictech]

I made a filter cutter using a Ridgid pipe cutter wheel and some surplus metal stock - works fine ​@@crash4dafun

[@jamessharp9790]

I don’t know what I’m doing wrong, but tried it in the 2000’ Honda Accord I gave my son. Low mileage of 61k , but car had sat for months at a time. I tried R&P and noticed quieter running almost immediately. So far , no issues at all. I plan to use it for at least 4 more oil changes.

[@themikeroberts]

Why do you assume you're doing something wrong?

[@ThrowawayAccount-gi2uq]

Because he hasn't experienced any sludge issues​@@themikeroberts

[@varanidguy]

On the plus side, this just kind of proves that the oil is doing what's advertised.

[@crizzotch]

Same sitch in a 03 P71 4.6 after 200 mi. Upper end oil starve for 3- 5 secs on start up. Gonna swap out oil filter and tear it apart. Just started happening after Restore oil. 145k on motor. Service vehicle. Well maintained. Thanks for the info and lookin out! 👌

[@A_Toolbag]

How'd that turn out?

[@crizzotch]

@@A_Toolbag I'm going to cut the filter open and try to get some good analysis. I will post as soon as I can... Napa Gold filter... Who's ta blame, we will see

[@frederickburns1739]

As a retired certified CAT&CUMMINGS knuckle buster I find it interesting all the talk about oils and filters. But not very much is said about the crankcase environment!? I have seen cases where the breathing system was stopped up and causing oil leaks!? With that said if you're engine breathing system is not working properly it will sweat and that moisture will cause sludge to form!!! The best example I can give is my own personal experience. I purchased a used vehicle with all evidence pointing to proper PMS. ( carfax/ paperwork in the glove box ) I continued to use the oil being used according to the specs and paperwork; but it was using a little oil with no visible leaks!?After a little investigation I decided to service PVC system and walla the oil consumption STOPPED!

[@owenhill-vf7ko]

I think you mean the PCV system. We change those at 50k miles all vehicles.

[@627miko]

When i switched my truck to the R&P i ran seafoam though it for 100 miles before putting the valvoline in it. Not so much that it'd tear up the seals if the sludge was what was holding it together but enough to get the bad spots cleaned up. Ive not had an issue and my truck has almost 216k miles on the original 4.2l. I do religious oil changes at 3k miles or 6 months but idk what the previous owner did maintenance wise and running just oil through it was not cleaning it apparently since the seafoam came out noticeably darker than usual and the first change after using the R&P was the same. Once its clean, use whatever brand oil you want and a good filter. I like OEM filters. The oil doesn't make a huge difference, its really the filter that will be noticeable.

[@richcombs4805]

I think im going to use it 50-50 with PUP and watch for sudden oil color changing darker on the stick or towel.

[@michaelkrajnik1552]

I’ve been using Valvoline Max life or Valvoline full synthetic oils for years and I’ve got a Pathfinder that is pushing almost 400,000 miles, and does not burn any oil whatsoever and has the same performance the day I got it when it only had about 20,000 miles on it. Even after every oil change right before I change the oil still has a fairly clean golden Look to it and I do most of my oil changes around 10,000 miles due to high interstate use. Had other cars past 200 ,000 to 300,000 miles on them with the same results.

[@A_Toolbag]

Very impressive, you don't really hear about Nissans going that far these days.

[@usocrazy6133]

Please run an oil analysis on the remaining sump oil if you are not changing and share the results. With that much sludge, I would definitely confirm the remaining oil is still good or what life remains. I'm running it in a very well maintained Kia for the first time. I'm going to sample it in another 500 miles and change the filter to see what it looks like. I don't think it will be near as dirty as the Ford in your video was. Great video!

[@A_Toolbag]

I haven't decided for sure to send any off for analysis yet but I did save some in a clean container in case I do. Probably will since there seems to be interest in the subject, though I might need to talk to someone who understands UOA numbers better than I do to interpret any anomalies.

[@TP-wq4vi]

❤ man, thank you 🙏. I am so glad to know this, because I am about to to this to my 1998 S500 and the 2013 Camry. If I don’t watch your vid I would run it for 2k miles. Big thanks to your work.

[@marstedt]

Thanks! Looking forward to more updates and thoughts on this new oil.

[@azarahwagner2749]

Well , I bought a used 2015 Mazda 6 with over 113 000 miles , and it was thoroughly thrashed . Turned out the valve cover seal was blown and would leak heavily at highway speeds. There was so much oil and sand / dirt that had built up between the front ( actually the side facing the radiator) of the engine and the intake manifold that you could not see the injectors or the fuel rail . It was baked into a solid mass . The valve cover hardware was never touched and the owner probably just kept dumping in new oil daily to keep up with the leak . When I opened up the valve cover I was shocked beyond belief at how spotless the internals were ( silver clean no gold or bronze colour you would expect) . I dropped the oil pan and it was clean as a new whistle too , like too clean . It goes to show that there is plenty of detergents already in any oil AS LONG AS the engine has clean oil in it with regular oil changes at 3000 - 5000 miles. I have worked on engines my whole life and once you have a lot of sludge your engine is junk now ! Baked oil and carbon on rings and pistons will never get cleaned by flushing with anything. Besides , proper maintenance on any engine shows that your rings should be replaced around 100 000 miles anyway if you want it to last. Once an engine is severely compromised by sludge you should either replace it with a newer engine or rebuild it.

[@bira896]

I have a feeling that Ford engine must have had a lot of sludge already. The oil is for cleaning carbon deposits, which is not the quite same thing. So yes, if your engine is already full of sludge, I imagine this oil could "thin" it enogh to cause your filter to clog.

[@davevan8864]

FRAM filters are part of the problem. Stopped sing them back in the 1990's. While not a mechanic by trade working on my own, race team mechanic and resto cars since 1973. Thx

[@hotrodray6802]

We don't buy any GM vehicles because the Vega was a POS.

[@bowdoin5063]

Been using Valvoline for 40 years. The oil didn't clog your engine oil filter, poor maintenance did

[@rotaryperfection]

Glad I'm seeing how well this oil cleans because I just started using this oil. Seems on really sludgy engines, you'll need to change the oil filter a couple times within the 1st thousand miles to make sure it isn't internally bypassing.

[@a.joegevara3519]

I've never used that motor oil, but with my VQ35DE in my Nissan is a know high consumption engine, 280K miles contributes. I change oil filters 2:1 in-between regular oil changes. Being proactive may have saved you! Good info!

[@brettgrady7200]

Good info about the Valvoline product, sorry about the hard break, not oil related failure...just giving my 2 cents of info. Good luck

[@Cragified]

Clogging an oil filter will not cause an oil starvation. The will go into bypass from 8-16 psi differential on either side of the media. (Once the pressure overcomes the spring). And that very emulsified sludge would shoot right through the oil system without issue with standard oil pressure. If the engine was that sludged up the more solid sludge might have been dampening a loss of tolerance in a chain/phaser/rocker hence why there is noise now.

[@A_Toolbag]

Noise ended up being due to a completely worn out drive gear for the camshaft synchronizer and oil pump. Which is not unheard of on these engines, so it was probably on its way out long before this oil change. Unfortunately the gear is no longer available, so this truck's life is in the hands of junkyard parts quality/availability at this point.

[@petesjk]

@@A_ToolbagThat seems unusually shortsighted on Ford’s part to not have high wear parts available for 30 years or so?

[@aaronthomas6155]

Fram filters have historically had issues with oil bypass...or lack of. Some Fram filters don't even include a bypass....

[@hotrodray6802]

​Where did you get this BS ??

[@Cragified]

@@hotrodray6802 Simple physics and knowing how things are designed. All spin on oil filters have an integrated bypass valve. If the filter media gets too saturated the valve opens due to the pressure and the filter media gets bypassed. Otherwise the filter media would implode due to the pressure from the gear pump.

[@IANNICHOLSON-u4x]

It all depends on the SEVERITY of the engines sludge - sute build up. Every engine is different under different drivers and maintenance So , you have to determine yourself how many times you use it After using the restore Go STRAIGHT TO THE NEXT LEVEL valvoline extended protection oil And Never worry about a dirty engine again

[@brianmann986]

Thank you so much for sharing. Did I miss how many miles were on each engine? Surely that is critical to how much deposits are in the engine.

[@nordicpride9708]

When doing any type of cleaning on an engine whether BG EPR or this EXCELLENT oil, id suggest ALWAYS changing the filter several times. Just common sense really.

[@ToriL97]

I just changed my moms Suburban over to the R&P 5w30 to try it out. The engine is overall clean inside, I've had to the valve covers off before, but it also has Active Fuel Management so I wanted to use it mainly to keep the valley pan and lifters clean to prevent DOD lifter collapse. Hopefully I dont have issues with plugged up filters.

[@genehart261]

Valvoline has taken a big risk with this. My experience with Toyota is that oil seems to stay cleaner than most other makes. Sometimes it's hard to change oil at 5,000 miles because it still looks clean.

[@MyerShift7]

Interesting! I just changed out some Mobil 1 0w40 from my 235K mile 2016 Corolla (tried higher viscosity after adding 2.5 quarts of 0w20 every 5K miles after consulting a couple shops and even the Toyota dealer that a higher viscosity would help. It did, only have to add 1 quart of 0w40 or the usual 5w30 I do.) and it was BLACK with 5054 miles on it. I'm now trying this Valvoline 5w30 Restore and Protect with a Mobil 1 EP 20K filter. I've had mine since brand new, and oil changes every 5K miles.

[@MyerShift7]

Interesting. I just changed the oil in my 2016 Corolla I've had since new. I'm at 235K miles now, and have gone up viscosity for oil loss (burn off, my timing chain tensioner is leaking like the 2ZR-FE does) after the Toyota dealership and independents recommended doing so once I hit 200K miles. I just changed out Mobil 1 0w40. Had 5,054 miles on it. It was BLACK. I'm now trying this Valvoline 5w30 Restore and Protect with a Mobil 1 EP 20K filter. I wouldn't have tried the Valvoline if I had realized they weren't American anymore.

[@MylifeMB]

I agree. The problem you had was that you were using a 20 micron rated filter instead of a regular filter which are usually rated at 30.

[@hotrodray6802]

It's microns... Not chunks.

[@zech007]

I think if you're having sludge issue you should do a engine flush first, then rinse with a round of cheap oil, then use Valvoline R&P to keep it clean/clean further more.

[@I_know_what_im_talking_about]

Obviously a slugged up engine needs cleaning and with cleaning comes…? You guessed it, frequent oil filter changes. Pull one after 100 miles and look at it. Proceed based off what you see. It can take 5-10 oil filter changes during a 3,000 miles oil change run with this oil to keep things in check and actively CLEANING. Valvoline says it will take several oil changes to do their advertised cleaning.

[@Hallahanify]

​@@I_know_what_im_talking_abouthow do you change filter without draining the oil Why not just put new oil if you're going to drain the oil to change the filter?

[@lgoamity]

​@@HallahanifyDepends a lot on the Filter Layout/Housing. I've been running R&P on my (soon to be retired before Winter because of rusted Frame and Maintenance costs that I learned about after changing to this oil) 2003 Saturn ION (over 191K miles) for a Month now. Its Ecotec Engine uses a Drop In Paper Oil Filter Cartridge... So I can check/change the Filter with very little effort at home, gas station, or side of the road if needed (unscrew the Filter Cap from the Top Side of the Engine under the Hood, with a Wrench/Socket). Except for the Oil in the Paper Pleats, the rest of the Oil stays in the Housing/Oil Pan. Had/Will plan to have a peak at the filter soon... Will/Was planning to take an Oil Sample to see how it improves (last few years it has seen increased oil consumption and higher wear metals... Been a Full Synthetic vehicle for over 20 years)

[@darkerbinding6933]

​@@HallahanifyOil filters are not located below the oil level of the oil pan. All of the oil does not drain when you replace/remove the filter. Simply change the filter and top off the oil to the correct level. The amount of oil lost in the filter change depends on whether the filter installs horizontally or vertically.

[@A_Toolbag]

The viscosity-nazi on my shoulder makes me hesitant about using straight up engine flush these days. I do think a cheaper oil change prior to filling with R&P might be a good idea though. Next time I think I'll fill with a cheap synthetic like Supertech with a regular grade filter, then run the engine at moderate RPMS to do a good rinse of the system and any loose sludge. Then move onto R&P and a good filter, but still cut open the new filter early to check up on how it's doing.

[@AUDIDOIT]

Great tips thank you makes perfect sense. Looks like the oil is doing exactly what it says it should. Be careful with unknown older long service vehicles with this product.

[@TheNotimprezed]

I would not mix oil as their additive packages may not be compatible with one another

[@Tibyon]

After Lake's video I did start using this oil in my scion with the infamous 2az-fe engine, with 200k miles and I strongly suspect didn't get regular oil changes. I did my oil change at 2,500 miles and the oil was definitely very dirty. The engine is definitely running better, I used to stall often in first gear under 1000rpm which indicates poor compression, which is no longer the case. I'm curious if other people are also finding that this breathes some new life into older and abused engines

[@tonyisme4934]

I'm liking this oil 5w30 in my 2012 Camry 4cyl 2AR-FE .... had previous oil consumption using Mobi 1 . But seems to have gotten better with this Val oil

[@chaingliderreddup4222]

@Tibyon Same scenario with my Scion but i'm on my first use with VRP. I did hit 32mpg on my same mixed driving commute which was very surprising and still having to top off the oil on fill-ups.

[@Tibyon]

@@chaingliderreddup4222 32? That's really good, I need to double check but I have 26 mpg on my 2nd gen xB

[@chaingliderreddup4222]

@@Tibyon I also replaced my pcv hose and valve. The hose was cracked, the valve was crusty :) and also added a oil catch can in the line. That catch can is catching a good amount of oil and keeping it out of the intake. I also have 17" aftermarket wheels so I don't know what my actual milage truly is. They are .87" larger diameter than factory. Keep us posted

[@A_Toolbag]

Amazing, I would not have expected it to help drivability issues. Good to hear.

[@craigiefconcert6493]

That’s great advice to change the filters! Toyota maintenance KZbin channel Petr also recommended to do a mid cycle filter change. Filters are cheap! Engine not.

[@CWB1863]

I'm gonna stick with what i've been using the last 30k. Pennzoil UP and Valvoline HM Max life. My 2014 F150 EB runs great with both.

[@rosskrause3926]

I've been a Valvoline Max-Life oil user since it first came out..never any problems..I have done a "Hotshots Stiction Eliminator" flush twice in my 2012 Nissan Altima 2.5L and it worked as soon as I started the engine..then did my regular Max LIfe oil and filter change..never any problems and changed the valve cover out because oil was seeping out from the Seal..top of the 2.5L valve train and under the original valve cover looked like new. it is time for my next oil change and might try this..Nissans got 175.000 + miles and still runs great.. glad to have seen this video.

[@ibiro868]

Best to use what your cat is used to. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it

[@garykeenan3724]

So change oil filter a couple of times top off oil then change oil n filter

[@je19662008]

As soon as I saw you were using FRAM oil filters, I was like, "Dude, what are you doing?" I would never use any FRAM product under any circumstances. But aside from that, cleaning an engine involves more than just changing the oil regularly, which of course, you should always do no matter what. But you knew that. You mentioned always using a quality filter. I believe the quality of the oil filter is more important than even that of the oil because that's where the dirt and sludge collect. I use K & N. That's the best brand that is also readily available at most of my local parts stores. Another few steps you could take is checking the condition of the spark plugs before you embark on any engine cleaning regimen. That will give you some idea of how much dirt and carbon are in the cylinders. Finally, you might also want to either drop a few tank-fulls of 93 octane fuel or use a gas treatment product a few times. That will help burn off any extra carbon that the oil can't remove.

[@blue03r6]

Anyone whos not a chemical engineer making oil analysis videos is not some to take advise from. The only guy on KZbin you can trust about oil is the motoroil geek.

[@MarianA-vu8tb]

I think some oil filters if not all have a spring on the bottom that will act as a bypass in case the filter gets clogged, that spring is calibrated for a certain threshold pressure, when filter gets clogged the oil pressure gets high and when the threshold pressure is reached the spring will flex and oil will bypass the filter so there wont be any filtration but at least the engine will not run without oil.

[@owenhill-vf7ko]

As a 3rd generation mechanic and engine builder this video is baloney. Why didn't He show oil filter being removed from that 2008 truck? Was only conventional oil used for 16 years. What was oil change interval?My hunch this guy did an engine flush and that filter is from the flush. No way 500 miles it is that clogged. We know lot's of folks using this Valvoline oil and no one has had this happen!!

[@yournightmare9999]

I think same even at 4K filter should not looks like that

[@JimSix-jo6hf]

without knowing how much sludge was in the engine you can not make a judgement like that

[@TonicofSonic]

3 generations and you were never tought the most important rule of all : you never know everything. I personally used this oil in my 2011 f150 5.0 with 198k. After about 500 - 1k miles I changed the oil and cut open the filter and it looked exactly like the one in this video. It had black sandy looking bits all over the bypass valve and on the bottom of the filter. Changed the oil to Wal-Mart oil as a flush between brands and after the same amount of miles the filter looked like new with nothing inside the filter. My advice is do not use this in an older engine. Use this to PREVENT buildup not to release it. FordBossMe used this oil and had a vct failure in first interval. I developed a knick seemingly due to low oil pressure at hot idle. His was likely clogged from tbe oil cleaning, mine was likely buildup that was unclogged around the timing chain tensioners letting oil pressure drop once thin enough. Pick your poison.

[@yournightmare9999]

@TonicofSonic change your oil every 4-5K and never buy American trash. They fall apart pretty quickly with everything. But typical Americans still purchase those junks

[@yournightmare9999]

@@TonicofSonic most important rule never buy Americans junk and change oil every 4-5K

[@miket1322]

You could also blend say 20 % of Restore and Protect with Valvoline regular synthetic. For example, one quart restore and protect with 4 quarts of regular synthetic. The cleaning procedure will take a lot longer but you will likely not clog up your filter during a regular oil change interval.

[@josephbarner1029]

Oil is great I have used it twice can feel a difference in the way my motor runs also noticed no tarnish buildup near filler cap area it went away. Great oil.

[@Kayy_SS]

I run RR on both my vehicles: 140k miles 16 Ford explorer 3.5 eco, 185k miles 08 Acura RL. I just changed my second RR oil yesterday and will cut those filters open tomorrow morning. 🤞 that it's not clogged . Side nodes: Don't know if it's coincidence but I noticed MPG drop on the 3.5 Ecoboost, the Acura feels like it lost some power but then it also has catalytic converter issue (p0420 code).

[@TheBeagle58]

It is recommended a very high quality filter is to be used the first one or two times. I am about to do my first on this oil. I used a K&N for this first time. oil still looks and smells pretty good with just about 4k on it in my 2016 3.5 EcoBoost.

[@I_know_what_im_talking_about]

I was thrown off by the oil filter comment as well. 🤨🤦🏻‍♂️ You want a GOOD oil filter during a cleaning event, in order to…? You guessed it, CATCH ALL THE PARTICLES. The oil is LOADED with very tiny carbon particles during these cleaning events. You want an oil filter to catch that. Even if it means cutting open 4-5 oil filters during a “cleaning cycle”

[@A_Toolbag]

Most filters, at least the ones I ever look at, meet similar standards for filtration. The big difference is build quality and longevity. I normally use the high-end filters like the Wix XP and this new Fram as opposed to upper-mid-grade filters because I expect vehicle owners to run them hard and then show up 3000 miles late for the next oil change; not because I think they filter all that much more finely. For a few hundred miles, I would run about anything better than a cheapo shop-grade filter, and would have no qualms at all about running something like a standard Wix or Champ XL. It seems like a waste to run a top notch filter for just a few hundred miles. That's my hunch anyway, this oil is still new to me and experience might end up dictating that I really should use high end filters from the get go and just price the whole process accordingly. Always learning.

[@randellgribben9772]

K&N filter are just rebranded filters... give me a day.. and i will post it

[@aaronthomas6155]

@@randellgribben9772 Nearly all filters are just rebranded filters. Like with most things, there's only a handful of companies actually making filters and selling them under multiple different brands.

[@paveljelinek772]

1:05 piston rings do not get dirty😅, they just seal in place because of the sticky gunk, this happens because of high temps in the chamber and this is natural like death, or that we have to eat or that we get dirty over time and have to wash.. This cleans the gunk, thus preventing from bad things to happen. Btw just saw the video from Valvoline's backdoor, 👍👍👍👍👍

[@brianklamer3328]

Wondering if this would help the affected 4 cylinder Toyota 2AZ-FE oil burners? Would be great if it could help them.

[@jasperlit1345]

It may or may not> The issue with many of these engines is the low tension rings become stuck, this is from excessive built up deposits caused by not regularly changing the oil, if it runs for too long like this you will end up with cylinder damage and the engine is toast.

[@moshet842]

With it's intended purpose, very likely to help. This is going off people who have had success freeing the rings using Berryman's B12 chemtool and solving their oil burning issues.

[@meair]

i hope so, i burn oil like something else and my coworker has a rav4 with that engine, we’ve both switched onto this oil

[@richcombs4805]

It won't help since it is a tolerancing error....it's a gap issue not a stuck ring problem

[@A_Toolbag]

As others said, it can't fix a manufacturing defects. But it might be able to reduce severely-burning 2AZFE's back to something closer to how they were from the factory, and that would still be worth it.

[@ze_german2921]

Been running this oil in my Audi a6 2.0 10 miles so far with ~3k Intervals. I have not observed any dirty or clogged filters.

[@bobleblanc8082]

Do you do a lot of short trips with the Ford? Short tripping is known to cause engine sludge. It's either that or you're oil change intervals are too long.

[@A_Toolbag]

The owner of the Ford doesn't always change the oil on schedule from my understanding. I don't know exactly how often since it usually doesn't come to me for oil changes.

[@roystonevans2223]

Just bought this for my honda stepwagon 2010RK5 , which has the low friction pistion rings which are known for build up & then failures. This oil is highly recommended....but i will double up on the filter changes as i expect extra crap to be removed from the engine.

[@ibzrgman9130]

This oil is supposed to be a good cleaner, but it's over time and changes. Even if it does remove build-up it's over continued use, not the filter is clogged in one use.

[@A_Toolbag]

That's the idea. Depends on how much loose junk is in the engine though.

[@cbrown17982010]

I’ll say this much, brand new remanned 3.6l pentastar. At 10k miles I put restore and protect in and from 5 mins after I started it up it didn’t sound right. 741 miles later I got weary and drained it and refilled with PUP. Come to fine very fine metal in the oil and some small but easily visible to the eye metal in the oil filter. Not a tone but at least one little bit in between each pleat in the filter. I’m not sure why this happened considering they claim you can put it in both new and older engine but I was beyond shocked to see that there was any metal in the oil at all.

[@marc-oliviercabot3380]

I'd put this oil and filter, run 500miles, do another oil change and check the oil's condition regularly afterward..

[@David-e1b3t]

The reason this oil doesn't clog oil filters is: A super powerful, quick acting sludge solvent would break all that nasty deposit stuff loose immediately. Which would be bad for clogging fine oil passages and filters. Instead, my guess is Valvoline R&P is going to be regular synthetic oil, but with a lot of extra cleaners in it. It just cleans faster and better than ordinary synthetics, but not anywhere near as fast as those aftermarket engine flushes. Or diesel! I think I'm going to try a bottle.

[@blackericdenice]

Better yet, if this crap clean so well. There is no need to buy BG engine flush.

[@Mike-Capz83]

this was the video i was talking about

[@snowmoon6562]

This is exactly what happened with my 2010 Suburban. I did an oil change at around 100K miles and added a can of Z-Max. About one thousand miles later, I got a low oil pressure chime and pressure gage went below normal operation. I changed the oil and filter again and when I removed the oil filter it felt much heavier than expected. Before adding Z-Max, the DOD would only activate while driving down hill. Now, DOD activates on flat stretches of road at 40MPH consistently. The moral of the story here is use good oils and have your oil tested if you keep your vehicles until they die like I do.

[@darksolara6750]

Are you saying there was just several hundred miles total… Total on that oil change and that's what that oil produced?… Reason being is I'm 1800 miles in on my 3.0 V6 and yes it runs great but I don't wanna go that far if you're seeing some areas there wow… Wow so just to confirm… Several hundred miles into the new oil change with that oil this is what you're seeing??… Thank you for a response

[@A_Toolbag]

Yes, this was 500 miles on fresh oil and filter on the Ford. Oil change was done on June 24 of this year.

[@lgoamity]

​@@A_ToolbagThanks for the reminder. Changed my Oil (to R&P) June 30, 2024 and didn't plan to check my filter so soon, but probably better safe then sorry. It's being retired before Winter anyway but I'd rather drive it to the Junkyard under its own power in a few months vs towed

[@A_Toolbag]

Drive it to the junkyard?! That's a shame, what all is wrong with it?

[@lgoamity]

@@A_Toolbag 2003 Saturn ION (192K miles) still drives OK and seems "reliable", but because of its Polymer Panels (so still looks great), its been hiding a rapidly deteriorating frame... I've known for a while it has been "bad" but until "The Talk" this month with the mechanic/shop when I wanted an intermittent starter problem looked at (which of course wouldn't repeat for them and has been OK now, while showing signs of rust/corrosion, it and the flywheel "look" good...) and an intermittent ABS Sensor (causing Traction Control Off, not a big issue now but in a few months maybe) which I thought might be another bad wheel Hub assembly, like in the past, it is apparently a sensor in one of the Rear Drum Brakes and that along with the now scary amounts of accumulated rust/loss of frame integrity it's just going to be a money pit as rust will likely take even more as time goes on... Been joking/telling various shops the last few years I've wanted to drive it till the wheels fall off and that it was a rusted mess... Some probably thought I already "knew" what was going on...Was told last year it was a bit scary putting it on the lift for a Tire Rotation last year (but apparently not this year? When given a quote for new tires for Winter... just a few weeks before my "Talk" with my new Mechanic/shop) Moral of the story... I Should have taken 20 years of Wisconsin Winters more seriously, and been open and clear that I want to know about potential rust concerns early/often... I'll be doing more frequent Car Washes (already have unlimited wash passes for my vehicles for over a year, the tell tale signs of rust chunks falling off/collecting in various places afterwards should have been another sign) and "Fluid Film" type treatments to help keep Salt from rotting away my "Replacement" vehicle will be high on the list of things before Winter Hits

[@A_Toolbag]

Ah, yep, rust will do it. We're lucky here in SC, the frame will almost always outlast the power train. Better luck with the next one.

[@cyclopathic998]

I have heard this advice from an old car mech about 30 years ago on switching to synthetic oil in an old car: oversize filter, use cheap orange Fram, replace it after 500mi.

[@aaronthomas6155]

I was advised many years ago, by an old mechanic, to avoid Fram filters to avoid internal engine problems..... I've never installed a Fram filter on my own cars and never had a lubrication related failure.

[@hotrodray6802]

​@@aaronthomas6155 You might be really surprised when you find out which brand names are made by FRAM. LOL

[@scanadaze]

Simple solution to it all. Change your oil before 5,000 miles. I just replaced the valve cover gasket on my 2004 4.0l straight 6 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Over 183,000 miles. It was perfectly clean. Oil and filter are extremely cheaper than a new engine.

[@mrhighway]

What oil do you use reg or synthetic?

[@scanadaze]

@mrhighway Last oil changes, I used full synthetic motorcraft. What my dealership was putting in them. Motorcraft oil filters.

[@crash4dafun]

Think I read in a forum somewhere that Valvoline has a higher zinc content and is better for the 4.0L in Jeeps. Just throwing it out there, might want to research that...

[@scanadaze]

@crash4dafun Thanks