51 - Shop Safety: Tablesaw Experience

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Whenever I have a new student in the shop, I try to convey what if feels like when something is going wrong on the tablesaw. This may seem like an abstract idea, but knowing how to identify a problem before it goes too far could give you that extra second or two you need to prevent disaster.
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[@jorgeg922]

I'm about to buy a table saw... so glad I saw this video! Great channel! 1:04 all those clamps!!

[@keenaheaton8853]

Great info here for preventing kickback, I have never had one thankfully, but I have experienced the blade binding and have had the urge to continue pushing. Not anymore! Hard maple has usually been the culprit for me pinching the blade. I have just ordered a splitter for a thin kerf blade to install as my saw only came with a regular kerf splitter and I have ran the saw without it, I didn't realize how dumb that was until now. Thanks Marc!

[@michaelbeard3192]

Very good info Mark. I've taken a hard kickback in the gut from a relatively underpowered portable tablesaw. It doesn't take much to carry a good bruise for a week due to being in a hurry. Although the board had an interesting curved groove in it after I retrieved it from across the room.

[@mmarrinan]

Similar thing happened to me. Got hit in the arm and the board flew right by my head. Haven't touch the table saw since!

[@danielholguin4669]

Great instructional video, to the point with details, thank you!

[@joshcoffey2422]

Cant take my eyes off all of those clamps..

[@dadb0d_dave628]

It's a beautiful thing

[@iamjimgroth]

That kick switch is a great idea. Just got myself a table saw and getting all the safety tips I can before starting working with it.

[@yfz450rider39]

Just subscribed, your safety videos are really really good. I feel comfortable in most aspects in my shop, but the table saw still scares me!

[@jakehoeppner]

Thanks for the video. It's important to understand the fundamental cause of kickback in addition to your video which explains how to prevent it. Kickback results from the pinching or binding of the portion of the workpiece that passes through the rear radius of the saw blade - that portion of the blade projects the workpiece up and off of the table saw (unfortunately directed right at the operator) whereas the front radius of the saw blade "pushes" the workpiece into the table and pulls the workpiece away from the operator and as a result doesn't present the same potential kickback problem. As you mention, the splitter or riving knife help prevent the kickback problem as they keep the line of cut on the workpiece separated so that the workpiece does not pinch or bind against the rear radius of the saw (and as a result, come flying toward the operator).

[@titanwr]

Jacob Hoeppner My dad and grandfather were both shop teachers and master cabinet makers. When my dad taught me the table saw, he said, "The first rule is to keep the material against the fence. The second rule is to keep the material against the fence. The third rule is to keep the material against the fence. Your sole purpose for being alive when using this saw, is to keep the material against the fence." He then went on to teach footwork, hand placement, etc, but he demonstrated what happens when the material comes away from the fence after it's cut (major kickback)

[@poncedeleon4016]

Good information. I'd like to add ripping downward-facing cupped boards to the list.

[@Beschaulichkeit]

Thank you for posting this!

[@leluzz1]

THANKS FOR TIPS

[@mikec2810]

Marc, very good info,thanks for sharing. Is there a reason I never see righthanded people rip boards with the fence on the opposite side of the blade and is it safe to do so?

[@joehunter692]

those clamps ... I need them in my shop

[@pro-woodworking-tips]

I have to disagree that you are not using the blade guard because it can affect your cut. Yes sometimes the guard has to be removed but for the most part no, you should be getting used to the safety equipment and not giving excuses for its removal. What is more important a perfect cut or perhaps the loss of a finger. I ran without a guard for 25 years, till ten years ago I decide to put it back on. Issues that one has without the guard are getting hit with debris in the face, for example I was cutting through a full metal jacket bullet that ricocheted off my safety glasses and left a welt on my face. I have cut through 10 gauge shotgun slugs as well as buckshot. Guard will help you keep your pretty face The next best reason for the guard is actually dust collection as it aids in getting it into the saw base and if you are really serious about that you can add a hose to it. Drill a hole on the top just forward of the blade and insert a hose, suspend from ceiling and attach to your dust collector. Dust is almost completely gone. Just resawn 300 feet 3” tall x 1.25”thick through saw using a power feeder with guard still in place. Air was completely dust free and the sawn face was perfect for curved laminating. Believe me when I tell you that after forty two years of being in the shop you learn to really hate the dust, every single power tool in my shop has a vacuum attached to it

[@connied6703]

Good kick back info. but couldn't agree more with Ian. Just a word to the wise. Flying debris/dust is also avoided with the blade guard in place and the anti-kick back pawl clips help hold the stock down against raising up and of course help avoid kick back. Check your OSHA guidelines especially as you are working with first time users/students. Educational situations are viewed very strictly when it comes to student safety. A lawsuit in my community was just completed where the teacher took the blade guard off for the same reasons you mentioned and a student was then injured. The student won the 3 year legal battle and the teacher was let go immediately. Better safe than sorry.

[@andrejzakrajsek5278]

those black subtitles are reley.........wel they block the viev to much (sry about my speling not reley my language) other than that great stuf from you :)

[@woodwhisperer]

you can turn them off under the cc option in the bottom right corner of the video

[@andrejzakrajsek5278]

Woodworking with The Wood Whisperer oh thx :)

[@mrlifetime64]

no jewelry-no gloves - no long sleeves-no loose clothing

[@brianchester4218]

Nice video great info for us beginers, who gave a thumbs down there must be ANTI WOOD WHISPERER as this this sort of info could save me and others a painful experience

[@1873Winchester]

IMO the splitter is too far back to be truly effective. I have a saw with a riving knife and after some nearbys that only the riving knife prevented, I will never dare use a saw without one. I also have an overhead guard and it's really worth it's wight in gold. Only complaint is it's all steel and metal, I would like some glass or windows to look through.

[@Tiggity275]

Very good video. Great points about the direction of the sum of your forces while ripping. I can't believe how many people teach to stand on the wrong side of the blade. Glad to see someone teaching it correctly.

[@smileywarrior1870]

You can never watch enough table saw safety videos. Every time I watch one of these, it’s a great reminder to respect the tool. Take precautions and be safe. Ensure work area is clean and tidy.

[@shayne5829]

Thanks again! You're a great teacher. From a gun-shy (kickback experienced) tablesaw newbie.

[@tdsviper]

For a future sawtable owner, this was great to watch. Just wondeirng, what saw do you have. Or what type/brand do you recommend?

[@briarfox637]

Gonna check the mag featherboard, Thanks for the video. I removed my guard and use a splitter too.

[@rakeyohn222]

Good advice. Thank you.

[@ericbartha6313]

"Splitter is a must have" What do you do when your table saw is a circa 1960 Craftsman 100 that does have a mount for a riving knife/splitter?

[@woodwhisperer]

+Eric Bartha MJ splitter

[@rayswoodshop4467]

I am so glad I watched your video ! That kick switch is just what I need ! I have had times when I was fearful of taking my hands off the work piece. Thx !

[@kenstewart687]

Rays woodshop Thanks, just what I need, a kick switch.

[@adamgrossman6833]

Just my 2 cents, but I wouldn't try to hold a piece that seemed like it might kickback. I'd just get out of the way, and turn the saw off. If kickback does occur, you will not have control of the piece (and the hands attached to it), no matter how strong or fast you are.

[@woodwhisperer]

Speed is the exact point. You are gambling that you can get your entire body out of the way before that thing kicks back. I'm gambling that by holding it in place I can prevent the kickback altogether. I honestly can't say which one is better but my gut says, control the workpiece and control the situation.

[@adamgrossman6833]

I was thinking more of strength. If I was as strong as the table saw, I wouldn't need the table saw. But, you do have a good point, and I'm not as fast as the saw, either. Prevention is best. That's why I always use a riving knife.