6.5 Creedmoor - 70 more handloads for the T/C Compass

[@justforkicks4499]

If johnnys reloading bench was a 15 season series on amazon... id binge watch it in 2 days. Best production out there.

[@jasonfife2751]

I like the long videos. I’d rather watch them than anything the cable companies are running.

[@geraldbondoc5974]

Jason Fife i second that! 👍

[@chardeemacdennis2electricb329]

You must not have Cinemax

[@sweet65mustang]

@@chardeemacdennis2electricb329 Do you mean Skinamax?

[@johnnyshortsleeves]

Hands down, the best reloading videos on KZbin! Especially for the 6.5 Creedmoor. Keep 'em coming, I've been reloading for 30 years and I still manage to learn things from your videos.

[@roberteleejames9977]

I like the long videos. Being a newbie except reloading for revolvers 45 years ago I have no experience with rifle cartridges other than buying a box and shoving them in the chamber. You are very thorough, that maybe somewhat tiresome or boring to some guys with experience but I appreciate that hell out of it. Thanks Johnny.....

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

Thanks, brother! I like making the long ones as well. The more I talk and explain my decisions, the better informed people can be to tell me I am an idiot, if I make a dumb decision. I'm learning as I go here! :)

[@robinhurley6996]

well you have to appreciate that you are thorough - even including a scope drop test - simply going above and beyond for all of us out here

[@iBleedStarsAndBars]

Your channel is the absolute best for reloading out there. I've been reloading for 4 years now, and up to 5 pistol and 6 rifle cartridges. Guess I'll go ahead and add the 6.5 to the list next. Thanks for all your work and sharing of knowledge.

[@stevem83]

Don’t worry about the long videos. I like them.

[@leroyjenkins1511]

To improve your group size remove the bipod and use a very large sand bag on the front. Wedge the rifle down into the sandbag where it can't move. You could see a 50% improvement in your group sizes. This worked for my two AR-15 6.5 Grendel's and my 6.5 Creedmore Thompson Center Compass. I use a Silencerco Omega suppressor on my rifles and get great groups from 0.3 to 0.75 five shot groups most of the time. The Compass is the best value purchase I have made. I always use Lapua brass, other brands are a waste of good powder. Thanks for such a great channel!

[@BB_Chaptsick]

Please follow up with a video regarding the O.A.L. gauge. There are several videos on it already, but your videos are put together well and are very informative. I would like to see and hear your critiques on the matter.

[@Jeff_Seely]

My first loads after breaking my wife's new Savage 110 Ultralight were based on your Hornady 143ELD-X bullets and 41.0 grains of RL17, CCI-450's, and Alpha OCD Sm Primer ( this brass is NICE!) they were just about 3/4 MOA at 100yds. Very respectable for out-of- the-box sporter accuracy. The wife is dainty soul though and I'll admit this load is this gun had a pretty sharp little recoil for a 6.5CM (words I thought I'd never utter). Must be because this gun is impossibly light. She shot my rifle for the rest of the day. Thanks for the load and we'll keep playing with some lower velocity nodes.

[@hateferlife]

Don’t worry about videos being too long, that’s what playback speed is for! Keep up the great work!!!!!I’ve got to get a sixpointfive now that you’ve done all the heavy lifting

[@Thorsaxe777]

I'm enjoying this consumer test on the TC compass, It looks like the real deal for the Budget minded person. I agree with you on the overall aesthetics, However, cost Vs, function purpose, It's a great deal. Good content Johnny, Keep up the good work, Dave.

[@chrisbradley5223]

Thanks for doing this, picked up 2 TC Compasses in 6.5 Creed this Christmas and it gives me a really good starting point for loads.

[@geneitzkowitz4710]

I love the long detailed videos! I listen to them at work. It makes the day go by faster. I really, really, really hope you’ll spend more time trying to find the “magic “ load for the 129 Nosler LR. It looks to be the best bullet of the bunch and well worth the effort!

[@chrisoutdoors8998]

I always look forward to your video's. I really like how you shoot and show the groups. Seems a lot of people are getting away from shooting 100yd. groups. Many magazines don't show them any more either. So thanks.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

Thanks, brother! So many people out there are just plain full of it. I like giving people an idea of what realistic accuracy (or lack thereof) looks like.

[@dbe5033]

Nice video as always. I am looking forward to seeing how this develops. Thank you for really taking time to show the brass and pressure signs. I'm still learning and your channel is a wealth of knowledge and information. Thank you.

[@chris_williams_ky]

Yes! Always excited to see a notification from JRB!!! Great video-thanks!!!!

[@308guy8]

Thanks again for explaining everything as you go I use weaver tactical rings I've had good luck with them so far

[@10702390]

You do a really good job. Love watching. I always learn something.

[@jeffyoung2089]

Thanks for all your hard work doing these videos!

[@geoffbradbury7496]

many thanks for your load development. helps heaps

[@stephenwilson1950]

Enjoy your videos.Learning a lot. Sydney Australia

[@ReferenceFidelityComponents]

Great vid and my favourite calibre! This side of the pond there’s been loads of target shooters adopt this and almost universally the most popular rounds are one of 3….all in the 139 to 142gr range. The scenar 139, Hornady ELD and the Nosler Match. Powder wise a majority use RS62 which has very similar characteristics to H4530. I’ve shot a 0.18” 5 shot group with 44gr RS62 and scenar 139s to win a comp from a factory Tikka. Lapua small primer , small flashole brass. 42.5gr is close for large primer brass. Your side of the pond, h4350 should be the go to powder 😊 For hunting the eldx or SST 140 give match accuracy but you need the vld bullets loaded to no more than 15 thou off lands using a vld bullet seating insert. I use a redding micrometer seater with vld insert. Ordinary inserts will not load concentrically. Oh, you should use the D375 comparator! That’s designed for .260 cal. As long as you are consistent it doesn’t really matter as you are referencing to the same point.

[@garrytalley8009]

Johnny I really appreciate your videos. I do think there is a lot to be said for others finding the best standard deviation and working off of that though. I see you really don't go that route. All the long distance shooters do though. I also know that using the suppressor and the barrel mounted chronograph to effect the grouping of the bullets changing the harmonics to the point that the bullets may not shoot as good or even shoot better without them both. I do reload and know well the more I do like fire forming, neck turning and weighing cases make all the difference in the world. Each of those things can take an eighth of an inch to a quarter of an inch off the group size. BTW I don't think small primers are the way to go with the 6.5 Creedmoor it does make the cases last longer, but the cartridge I do believe was designed with a large primer pocket which most likely works better with the slower burning powder to shoot the longer heavier bullets they are using for long distance shooting. I have a couple of Savage 6,5 Creedmoor's. What I like about them is the magazine is so long that there is no problem loading cartridges long to get close to the riffling. Anyhow I do enjoy watching your videos but I have to kind of read between the lines on your tests, but I do find them helpful.

[@jodo1971]

That budget blaster deserves new rings! Just as I thought, the factory ammo did better the second time around. I've had more problems with Winchester ammo than any other, it would make sense that their powder stinks. I think the factory ammo( and everything else) will do even better with some solid scope rings. Great shooting !

[@malcomjohnson3181]

I like your channel to a lot,thanks for sharing your knowledge. I will be watching you thanks

[@coltonrinehimer9154]

love these videos that you put out! helps me learn a lot more about the hobbie. thank you!

[@egouldE5]

Great vid never to long.

[@MrNiceKnife]

Shot 1/2 moa with factory 140gr on a bipod and rear bag (with the red spacer still in it!). Great rifle.

[@JH-nf4xd]

Not sure why, but I particularly enjoyed this one. Posted this on Patreon as well, but 49:01 cracks me the hell up. Think I've watched it 8 times now.

[@tommyj7087]

I was glad to hear someone else say that Alliant's load data wasn't great. I bought a couple pounds of PowerPistol for my first 9mm load and couldn't find SQUAT from them.

[@jestillwell1964]

Hornady has 5 seating stems for the 6.5. Use different colored sharpies on the narrow section of the shank and record in a book which one works with each bullet maker, type, and weight.

[@stuartgrimm6048]

JRB For the most part the Hornady bushing matches the SAAMI dimension. 30-06, 303 British, 280 Rem, 257 Roberts, 25-06 Rem, 270 Win, 7x57 Mauser, 30-30 Win, 300 H&H Mag, 6.5x55 Sweed and 30-40 Krag all have a datum of .375" and use the C.375 bushing. Same with the 308 Win, 243 Win, 260 Rem, 7mm-08 Rem and the 300 Savage all have datums of .400 and use the D.400 bushing. There are a few oddballs. 223 Win Super Short Mag and 270 Win Short Mag have a datum of .445" and use the D.400 bushing but the 7mm Win Short Mag has the same .445 datum but Hornady shows the C.375 bushing. The 6.5 Creedmore's parent case is the defunct 30TC. Both have a datum of .400. I would guess that the 6.5 creedmore should use the D.400 bushing and it is a typo in the Hornady chart. The 7mm Win Short Mag should probably also use the D.400 bushing like the other two Short Mags above and may also be a typo. My analysis. And my 2 cents. Stuart

[@georgiaboy4410]

6.5 is a great long range shooter for sure but I think for practical hunting purposes it will never dethrone my 7mm-08 The T/C compass impresses me for its price point. Keep up the good work!

[@shermdog6969]

Georgiaboy44 love the 7mm-08 but I'm used to my 270.

[@georgiaboy4410]

Sherm dog. .270 is great as well"king of the west!" Lots of new calibers on the market and I'm all for that even though I think much of it is just marketing hype. There's a reason why the old stand bys like .223, .243, 30-30, 7mm-08, .308, .270 and 30-06 are still around. They work for they're intended range and purpose and I've not seen a lot of improvement on them.

[@shermdog6969]

Georgiaboy44 very true. I also love my 243 for antelope. Always been interested in the 7mm 08 for elk. I think it's a little less recoil than my 270.

[@sukey62]

The Whidden dies I bought for my 6.5 came with a .400 shoulder bump gauge. I think either works as long as that's the numbers you use & don't switch.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

Exactly. It's all about a reference point for setting dies. Trying to use it as a poor man's go/no-go gauge, or match up measurements with the SAAMI drawing is probably not a smart move to begin with.

[@thejohnnybob]

That shiny smear thing looks about like an extractor mark. Like you said, nothing crazy, but definitely a selling point for a neck sizer versus a full length sizer.

[@ronaldcoleman1323]

The loose scope has happened to me more than once. Good show.

[@J9_j3]

If you settle on that scope and not planning to move it around i suggest to get those Talley integrated ring-base thingies. I had a great success with those on my Rem and Sav bolt guns. I love how there is no additional interface to worry about as between scope ring and the scope base you would typically have with traditional base+ring setup. Also makes for a nice and slick clutter free setup as well as cuts on weigh (a tiny bit)

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

When I get a 30mm setup for this gun I will definitely go with something better. I haven't used Talley before so I might give them a shot!

[@douglasbattjes3991]

That's one great video, have 2 Bergara's that are 2 s/n apart, B-14 with 24" barrels. Shot the Federal non typical white tail in 140 gr, same as what you shot. one group was .375 with one gun and the other was 1.43. Funny how one gun likes one bullet and the same in the other doesn't like them. Will know more when I check the set back from the lands. thanks much for the info

[@RonzRocketz]

When I use the Hornady headspace comparitor for .223 and the A330, it goes right up to the shoulder, so I speculate the D400 should work similarly with the .264 case. I also had issue with the scope mounts getting loose, so important to blue and tighten before installing the scope.

[@sturner1911]

Thanks for the headspace comparator info. I've been struggling with which to use myself. When I FL sized my brass I didn't get any shoulder bump readings with the .375 insert. I don't know if it's the insert or my rifle chamber. All loaded rounds chambered just fine. I haven't tried the . 400 insert yet but will.

[@MrCharley201]

The drill and tap for the stoney point OAL gage is: drill # I, tap 5/16- 36 just in case you want to make your own modified cases.

[@steveo6453]

Ok 2 things, I agree... Copper fouling isn't always a bad thing. Thankyou for your perspective on getting the barrel "broken in", adding metal not taking away, it's a new rifle no real abrasive action is ever necessary. Secondly nosler are over priced just to begin with. Idk if they make bullets for the 6 and a half creed 💪 Try some Combined technology bullets Thanks brother BTW I would like to donate but it seems as though someone else wants a piece of the pie. DO THEY NOT ask for donations like everyone else.

[@michaellavazza960]

Threw your latest data into quickloads - Suggested next loads for those bullets and powders 22" Barrel Nodes 1.2018Ms, 1.127 Ms, 1.012 Ms Based on your 760 speeds I had to move the Ba to .45 to get the fps close. Based on your RL15 speeds I had to move the Ba to .475 to get the fps close. Based on your RL17 speeds I had to move the Ba to .442 to get the fps close. It was much slower than the standard. I've seen this w/ some primers. Next ladder centers I'd try: (I normally set this as the center and load up/down .4 grains in .2 increments) 123SMK & 760 Based on Ba from your loads: 43.3 grains and 2.809 OAL Based on Ba from software: 43.2 2.815 OAL 129 AccLR & RL15 Based on Ba from your loads: 41.1 grains and 2.770 OAL Based on Ba from software: 39.1 grains and 2.784 OAL 143 ELDx & RL17 Based on Ba from your loads: 43.8 grains and 2.804 OAL Based on Ba from software: 42.2 grains and 2.800 OAL

[@cthomes57]

Hi Johnny, i had a rest like the lead slead and had never good precision with that. I compared this with a caldwell front rest and a rear bag and divide my result by 2. I think the problem is that with the lead slead the gun can not recoil and jump instead. This is with no doubt the problem off youre scope mount, the phenomen is amplified with the crappy stock (i've seen that in my tikka's and replace them by GRS hybrid stock) My tikka tac a1 like h4831sc, N150 and N550 and lovex S070 ( wich is accurate 4350 as i understand over the internet) vith 139 grs lapua scenar. With 123 grains lapua scenar N150 is the way to go, this combo can shoot less than 1/4 moa (13 mm) at 200m, when i do my part.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

Yeah, my hold is just as good off of bags. Heck, I hold the best off of a bipod, but that's not really an option for precision with this stock. The recoil reduction with the Lead Sled is nice but I don't think it's worth all the extra shock the gun sees. I'm not sure which way I'll go in the next video.

[@cthomes57]

Johnny's Reloading Bench yes i don't think bipod is an option with this kind off stock, i've tried as well but with no better results.

[@rdp0828]

Johnny, I just placed an order for Starline brass, 1000-10 mm. and 250- 6.5 creedmoor, called back and told the lady that I wanted you to get credit for my purchase, the lady said they don't do that.

[@j.c.lepley1881]

I did a average case weight for standardized length 7mm Rem. mag case for PPU, WW, and HDY, the PPU cases were 265g, with a 9 grain range, the WW were 234g. with 5g. range, the HDY average was 218g. with a 4g. range. In working with a dozen different bullets, the top pressures in the PPU cases was attained with 1.5g. less R26 or H-1000, than the WW cases, and about 2g. less than the HDY cases. The PPU cases seem to have the best brass alloy, but also required the most case prep to get them in shape, primer pockets too shallow, lots of flash hole burring and variations in neck wall thickness. But are by far the most durable. The HDY cases were soft and expanded the primer pocket within least amount of reloads, all things being equal. I will never use HDY brass again. I grouped the 100 PPU cases into 5 sets of twenty by weight proximity. After running about 800 rounds shooting out to 550 yards, I can find no discernible difference in the PPU 9g. case weight variation, but I keep them grouped anyway. :) I did the case volume measures with the water but I forget the number off the top of my head, but the more metal, the less water in general as one would think.

[@Vilvix]

Hey Johnny been watching the this series, just wondering when are you going to reload the factory ammo with large primers, I’m interested to see if there is any difference, especially with ball powder

[@nathanmcadams6708]

Great video, I would love to see you do a series on 22-250

[@shadmeacham3164]

Hey was curious if you were gonna do a video on the new hornady A-tip bullets? 135gr and 153gr for 6.5 cals.

[@azureoval]

Alliant does have Creedmoor data out. If you go to www.65creedmoor.com and go to the reloading sub-forum you will see a sticky post on top labeled Alliant Load Data. The first post has a small blue link to the PDF.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

They finally posted some on the Alliant website! It's just with RL 16, though. I'll check your link as well, thanks.

[@austintyler7991]

Smk 123. Try varget 38-39 grain. (38.2,38.4) Great job brother. Keep up the good work. When u loading H147 gn bullets ? Bless ya. I wonder how Retumbo would do in this cartridge. On 125 -150 gn ?? My 264 loves it

[@stonekold]

I like how they have @ 20:25 7.62 x 39 BRITISH, didnt know Kalashnikov was british !!! Also the Hornady comparator is not to exact SAMMI specs, that would require an EXACT bushing for every cartridge, so you use the closest bushing with Hornady scale or you can add neck diameter + shoulder diameter and divide by 2. for SAMMI it is 0.462+0.295 +2 = 0.380 means C375 as .375 is closer than .400 !

[@jayyoung5627]

Lol didn't notice that

[@mattschindler6741]

I bought the same gun and bedded the action and recoil lug.going to start reading for it soon.would like to c some Berger vld hand loads out of that gun too.thanks for the videos

[@navionflyer]

I wonder if higher velocity on the Nosler bullets might help accuracy. I'm not confident in that, but it will be interesting to see if it does.

[@russellehrgood9835]

Although the bullet diameter is .260, parent case is the factor your looking for. For instance the 6.5 Creedmoor parent case is .30 T/C case and the .260 Remington parent case is the .308 Winchester. The SAAMI specs are all different in each .260 caliber.

[@TheDillio187]

it's really interesting watching the video on the range how much the barrel waggles after every shot.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

The lead sled is a big part of that. The gun was taking a beating.

[@jeffpittman8725]

After watching you use Nosler in many different options I can say it will never be a brand I spend money on.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

I don't mean to bash on them but it's hard. lol I keep giving them opportunities to impress me and they keep disappointing.

[@michaellavazza960]

the Nosler 140 rdf in my creedmoor are lights out w/ H4350.

[@cademarti1365]

@@JohnnysReloadingBench it's not bashing on them at all. I absolutely love their bullet construction design with the accubond and partition. After doing some testing I started measuring the bullets alone by themselves without a case. Take a bullet comparator bushing made by hornady like you have in this video and measure ogive to boat tail base on nosler bullets. The difference in length variance I found was awful. I can understand if the bullet tip was off by several thousandths but the ogive to boat tail base was measuring .015 difference out of the same box. Noslers quality isn't the best choice

[@nathanschneider6884]

Great video as always! Thanks! Isn’t the bullet comparator and the headspace comparator from Hornady the same thing just using different inserts? Thanks in advance!

[@G5Hohn]

I tried the same approach of using the comparator against the SAAMI drawing for .223 because the datum is .330” . I measured my go gauge which is 1.4636”. The comparator on my caliper gave 1.4565” that’s pretty far off. Thus, it can only “compare” not give accurate absolute measurement..

[@FullSendPrecision]

+1 CCI 450 - I don't have a chrono yet but all of my single hole groups are lit with 450's.

[@FullSendPrecision]

I bought a bunch of that Starline SRP brass. I'd weigh them all and throw out a handful of them out of 100. Definitely some funny ones in there.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

I weighed them for a previous video. I think I saw about 5 grains of spread. Not exactly great. Culling 10-15 would have helped a lot. I would do that if I was shooting an expensive precision setup. Actually, I probably would have just bought Lapua in that case.

[@MrTrekFanDan]

12:00+ Johnny, ....add a few drops of dish soap to a half cup of water, gently stir, use that mixture, and that should mitigate the surface tension and eliminate most of the water mound at the case mouth. ....the cases will have to be rinsed of course before loading.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

I've heard dish soap and adding some alcohol to the water can help. I might try them at some point.

[@MrTrekFanDan]

Johnny's Reloading Bench ...I learned the dish soap trick gold prospecting.....love the videos bro, LOTS of detailed information, with a dash of humor. JRB is my favorite KZbin channel.

[@Rcfreak57]

I didn't have any luck with ABLR out of my 7mm rem mag with several different powder's.

[@ArmenArmenjs]

I need advice. Just picked up a Howa M1500 24" 1-8 and new to 6.5cr reloading. I have 2 boxes new Hornady brass large primer. 120gr speer dot. &140 gr Barnes bthp. I don't have any RL 17-or 15 nor H4350. First can't find any and can't justify paying $50/lbs. My inventory based on 308win,22- 250,270win, 7.62 54r, 8MM, 303. I have a lot IMR4895, H4895, imr4064, some Varget and also some H4831. Any suggestion with zeroing first and maybe some development load. Lyman RB shows some imr4895 H4895 4064,Varget. ??

[@lancestanford9811]

I have the same screws, I had to use Threadlocker Blue to keep the screws tight

[@hardball107]

Great video, try using SR magnum primers or #41 CCI Mil-Spec primers with the 760 ball powder. I've always had more consistency with small rifle primers in cases that were available either - or.

[@G5Hohn]

The CCI 450s he’s using are magnum.

[@hardball107]

@@G5Hohn The #41's are not true magnum primers but they do have heavier cups and hotter priming compounds. When you're looking at reducing velocity spreads I have found 41's are more consistent, weather it's the cups, priming compound or amount, I don't know but I have seen spreads in the single digits when using them. IMHO standard primers seem to work better with the current shorter, fatter calibers and the 41's are a standout and that's why I believe the latest trend with small rifle primers used in 6.5 Creedmoor is so popular. Less powder disturbed at ignition allowing a smoother burn from the rear to the front of the powder column. I've never had luck with magnum primers except with hunting loads when I wasn't looking to put all the rounds in the same hole. I have been using Winchester 748,760 and StaBall 6.5 with standard primers and my Savage 12FV shoots to .5" 5 shot groups and I have shot tighter than that but I'm the problem not the rifle or load at that point.

[@G5Hohn]

@@hardball107 41s are 450s with more anvil spacing to meet mil spec sensitivity. Also brass instead of nickel plated. Load some cases with primers only and compare 41s to 450s and 400s. Tell me what you think.

[@hardball107]

@@G5Hohn I have and they are stronger than standard but not Magnum. I have chopped off a bunch of cases and compared the flash with a high speed camera and a friend had a infra red spectrometer and measured the temp of the flame kernel to try to find out the truth and they are not magnum level. Believe what you want, most people consider the #41's and #34's magnums but they are not They are engineered for more reliable ignition and with harder cups to avoid slam and out of battery firing. Reliable ignition doesn't mean a bigger flash, in this case it means a hotter flash to ignite cold, possibly frozen ball powders. What I have proven is that they provide lower velocity spreads.

[@shauntucker5145]

Love your videos. Just curious with switching powder and bullets so much, do you find it successful to narrow down what powders you like or hate and what bullets you like or hate?

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

Not really! haha I always hold out hope that the next bullet and powder combo I test will be a magical combination that shoots amazing! For that reason, there really aren't that many powders that I really hate.

[@neilharris4462]

It's hard to tell from the video, but it looks as if there might be a slight radius around the firing pin hole? If so that may be what the primer is flowing into. Either way, without any flattening of the outer primer edge it looks to be of no concern to me.

[@rayzielonka7856]

I replaced the stock, stock with a boyds stock. The factory stock is pretty stout. Much more so than a Ruger. It's quite stiff. Replaced my trigger springs and got a very consistent 2 1/4 lg trigger .

[@o2wow]

I think Thompson is a bit generous drilling the bolt for the firing pin, I get that same extrusion on my .223 Compass.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

Yup, seems that way. I'm not going to concern myself with it unless we start piercing primers.

[@angelaprater2679]

John here I like your video.s

[@glen4130]

Good stuff.

[@dk17hmr]

You need to plant a couple 4x4 posts out there for a more rigid target stand.

[@Whtnite95]

Great video there Johnny. I had the same issue with the cratering primers in my two 6.5 Creedmoor rifles with Lapua SR Primer brass and had to go to a smaller firing pin to eliminate the cratering. Most of your 6.5 Creedmoor rifles have a firing pin made for the LR Primers and not the SR Primers. Hope this info helps.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

I'm going to wait and see if I pierce any before I modify anything. I'm sure, over time and a billion rounds, the extrusion into the firing pin hole could cause some wear, but I'm not ready to sweat it yet.

[@Rangers--qj4mx]

I have a Compass II in 6.5 and have a 16 oz. suppressor (that is still in jail). Have you seen any problem with hanging the suppressor on the end of that light barrel? Do groups open up more with heat with the suppressor, or about the same as w/o the suppressor? Thanks.

[@twg2118]

Any chance you will try ramshot hunter for the creedmoor?

[@dominickdelfino7552]

Johnny, So Hornady better than the Nosler whats the price difference between the two? Personally since I have started watching your channel I have never bought a Nosler projectile as I've never seen them perform well on your channel. I just loaded up 50 rounds of 6.5 Creedmoor with 3 different charges of Varget but wont be able to shoot them till next weekend.

[@MenkDaMerc]

On the oalg I think you should use .375 because them you will know the shoulder ANGLE is correct. It helps to be further from body of brass. Looks like .375 is about half way up the shoulder which would give you that perfect shoulder ANGLE, not just the length the shoulder is from base. If that makes sense to you.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

I get what you're saying, but the shoulder angle in your die and in your chamber are fixed. There's really no way to fix it if they're wrong, except switching dies!

[@bwarrior6340]

Johnny please test the Nosler 142gr Accubond 142gr bullets. Would love to see how they compare to the 143 Eld X.

[@klevee6076]

I'm impressed with the compass. My brother bought one in 22-250 and that skinny barrelled hunting rifle will put 5 shots into moa or better with factory ammo. Using 40 grain vmax its sun moa til the barrel is too hot to touch.

[@ShawnSon40]

Nosler suggests best accuracy with the Accubond Long Range comes with the bullet 50 thousandths off the lands.

[@briankeithwood]

You have probably already done this somewhere, but I am a newb on reloading. How about a starter's package from one of your suppliers maybe -- everything a first time shooter needs to get started... I am looking at 300 blackout and 300 win mag (also a TC compass)... Thanks.

[@hawknives]

From my view, when you set the .375 comporator on the case, it seems .375 is measuring a max(min?) setback of shoulder, or the bulge of the weakest part of that shoulder, which would seem to be in the middle of shoulder. Also, if case stretches forward, it would do so more away from what the .400 measuement would read. Question is, is there any less movement where the .400 gauge is reading, compared to where the .375 gauge is reading? Sounds like rocket science, and it's Not. I wonder if you neck size ONLY after fire forming, what reading you would get. These guys that play with Science, in the testing of tools, are pretty smart. I would not under estimate, what they have already tried.("Within Spec") If it feeds Nicely and it shoots very accurately......Good enough! Great Video and Teachings, Johnny! Thank You! Hawk..

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

Assuming the shoulder angle of your chamber is exactly the same as your die (I'm sure it never is), I would expect the same amount of bump at both positions! I will try measuring with both and see if they agree in the next video.

[@hawknives]

It's a sickness! I have been turning inside and outsides of case necks, to maybe improve accuracy. I'm beginning to wonder how much of this nonsense, makes a difference. Competition for big money, maybe.....hunting, not so critical. One can begin to understand, the meaning of anal retentive. Lol! I would be there all day, trying to get tight groups at 100 yards, when in reality the Creemoor starts getting accurate way out beyond that..... unlike my grouping for 308 which is 3 shots, 3/8" at 100yards.

[@BigWrigOutdoors]

i know with the t/c compass the blot is pretty rough and needs breaking in thats probably where your getting though marks on your brass from

[@sancharino6878]

Watching in march 2020. Looking at that bottle of R17 in anger.

[@1964JEDAGI]

It makes my heart hurt to see you do all that work and not have a single one ragged hole group. I remember back in the 90s, reloading for my 25-06 Browning A-bolt. If I couldn't get a group with all the holes touching , it messed up my whole day. What is the diameter of the hole in you 6.5 bullet compareter?

[@Ohio_Motonaut]

You should really test out some Lapua brass. Makes all the difference.

[@308guy8]

I use RL15 and Varget for 308 they both perform great. You should try RL15 in your 308 sometime

[@elifeasel1908]

What did the primers look like on the factory ammo?

[@Gonzo81]

My compass in 223/556 does the same thing with any powder charge.

[@G5Hohn]

Use the .400. SAAMI gets more scrutiny than Hornady marketing materials, I’d trust it more.

[@vincefallon3861]

Have you done any test using Lapua brass compared to Hornady brass in the same loads? Are the groups drastically different?

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

Not yet. Still just getting started! I can tell you, though...we wouldn't be seeing dramatically tighter groups with Lapua. It is absolutely 100% better brass in every way. Don't get me wrong there. But the things that make it better aren't really things that will immediately show up for a standard backyard shooter like myself. It's not going to turn a 1" gun into a .5" gun, unless there are major issues with the brass you're already using. More consistent weight, more consistent capacity, more uniform primer pockets and flash holes, more consistent neck thickness, etc. These are very important things that make subtle improvements, not drastic differences. Having said that, I will probably be buying some to test at some point, but it will be down the road.

[@davidgillham5233]

How about Hornady A-Max?

[@garyhendrick4391]

21:15 Does it really matter that much which one you use? As long as you use the same type every time 1 don't think it really matters to make every round the same dimensions. Then again, I am a newb and could be completely wrong lol

[@boggstucson5415]

SAAMI drawing shows datum for 6.5 Cr at .400. So that D400 insert should be correct...

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

Yup, I'm with you. I cover this in the next video of this series and come to the same conclusion.

[@thompsonjerry3412]

You should graph the relationship between time unemployed and video length.

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

You must be new. My really old videos were even longer! And I had a job back then!

[@shotgun_chef3265]

With srp you need to be on the real high side of charge weights to really drop sd. Like H4350 shoots like crap until you get over 42 gr with a 140 class bullet.

[@MrTrekFanDan]

Johnny, If you push the pin back into the bolt to match the depth of the primer strike, protruding distance will probably show the "gap" around the firing pin. I don't think it a pressure issue....I could be wrong, ....but being a bolt gun, what's the worst that can happen? You blow your face off. 😆

[@JohnnysReloadingBench]

I thought the exact same thing once I was editing the video and looking at it. Push that pin in just a bit and there's your gap. I am not going to worry about it at all. Now that I know what "normal" looks like I will just monitor for changes. If we start piercing primers I will revisit the issue but I'm not going to lose any sleep over it. Thanks!

[@tomickes409]

I am a bit confused .. I never concern myself with OAL (if it fits in the mag and cycles) You spend tons of time on OAL. OGIVE is the number I go by in order to avoid confusion from bullet to bullet. My trainer said ignore OAL .... I agree