6 things that made me hate 3d printing less

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

I can't believe its almost over, these two weeks have flown by! There's only 36h left to order the H&S Squidmar Airbrush! Thanks all you beautiful people who decided to get one already! I cant believe how many of you have been excited about it - THANKS! harder-squidmar.de/eng

[@reefarolla32]

Waiting patiently for mine to arrive, I cannot wait! Its a beautiful design and a great upgrade from my Badger 360. Although I had just decided against spending on a H&S then you changed my mind! It's all your fault Squidmar 😂

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

@@reefarolla32 haha sorry not sorry, you're gonna love it :)

[@GrafitTomi]

I wonder if we will get any notification about that it has been shipped. I have zero information since I ordered on the very first day. Squidmar, do you have any info about that part?

[@gershcz]

Is this a good airbrush for a beginner?

[@Phirumnon]

​@@GrafitTomi Check the website you ordered it from. There's an update on shipping under service/help tab. Long story short if you ordered on day one, your's will ship anywhere between yesterday and december 31.

[@Snacklord_Dennis]

I have a 2D printer and I always skip a generation when upgrading, so I’ll be patient and wait for the 4D printer

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

Loool

[@the_guitarcade]

I hate you. I'm in physical pain from laughing so hard at that.

[@soup-flavored-soup6613]

Do you still have your 0D printer?

[@michaelwilliamson7]

Underrated

[@Scarabswarm]

The good news, is that a 4D printer will let you make things retroactively.

[@AymarMtl]

I have been printing with an ABS PLA printer for 3 years (scenery mainly), and I started printing with a resin printer a couple of months ago. I started with an elegoo mars 2K pro and a Mercury plus curing machine. I have been printing with water washable resin, and apart from calibration, the only issue I had was changing my VAT plastic (I followed a tutorial by Elegoo). That's it... I have 0 fail, and I printed 5L worth of resin, I am absolutely in love with my printer, and if they were more affordable I would buy a gigantic one to print my terrain with it. My good old Enders 3 is a great printer, but I am always fixing, changing, tuning mechanical things (bed, extruder, tube, everything), a resin printer is litteraly no work at all. Put the resin in, get a supported model, press print... Done.

[@booradley1138]

Also a tip that improved my prints greatly: use PTFE lubricant on the FEP before pouring the resin in. This totally eliminated the problem of prints sticking to the FEP and extends the life of the FEP. Also, I use a water washable resin, and I use a flexible magnetic build plate. When cleaning the minis, I rinse them in a bucket, then I remove the supports, THEN I put them in the wash station. Gets the prints much cleaner, and keeps the wash liquid cleaner.

[@stab2486]

Any good alternatives? Haven't heard good things about teflon

[@manuelklein7627]

I have had so bad results with water washable resin. A lot of times it started cracking months after the print...

[@lunasllenas1997]

@@manuelklein7627 this is the issue with water washable, its the trade off sadly.

[@bramdx]

That trick with the leftover supports to aid in vat cleaning is going to save me so much hassle. No more digging around with a spatula and damaging the FEP. Thanks!

[@bathtubanarchy]

You can also carefully use your gloved knuckle on the underside of the FEP to rub and push the print, just enough to lift off a corner and hold it off the FEP while you get the scraper under the edge to lift. Takes a minute to get used to but good when you don't want to waste resin exposing the whole vat.

[@user-gk2cg2th9h]

To add to your first tip, if you remove the build plate and set it in the vat while the clean mode is on it will stick to the plate and make removing it much easier

[@olivervollmer5950]

I had the same issues until I switched to water washable resins. It is so much better imo. Only the cleaning needs a bit more work, as it is only a mechanical cleaning, not an additional chemical process as you have with IPA. But getting rid of the IPA sets off the higher cost for the water washable resin and did much to keep me safe from any health related issues.

[@clemenshimmer9245]

Please do not underestimate the dangers of the resin you are operating with. While IPA is a toxic chemical, resin contains way more toxic chemicals. If you don't treat the resin like it is way more dangerous than the IPA you are endangering yourself, you need to protect your respiratory system and skin from absorbing the resin's VOCs at all times uncured resin is not contained fully airtight or ventilated, or you will develop system health problems in time.

[@annasstorybox7906]

I would recommend one of the cheaper curing stations meant for nail studios. Just check that it has a function that allows to have the light on all the time. On most of these curing boxes you have changeable UV light bulbs so you can replace burned out bulbs easily. Also most of them have a reflective surface all over their inside so no fiddling willth foil. These boxes are quickly found on the internet. My boyfriend and I have found this thing quite useful and we don't mind having to do a little adjustment in the minis position to get everything cured. It works for what we need and I guess it is a decent alternative between some diy contraption and a real curing station both in price and quality

[@bigboomer1013]

I have a nail curing thingy, but needed a bigger curing station. So I built one by simply buying UV light strips for cheep like 10 dollars. Then I get a box, cover the inside with foil, and then stick the UV light strips inside. It's the ugliest yet the best thing I have ever made

[@NikkiAnnMarie]

With lift speeds you can actually go the other way, with very fast settings (180mm/min+) that reduce both the force and time, though slow speeds are more reliable. There's a grey zone of 'medium' speeds between 60-180mm/min that have the largest peel forces. It's a bit like ripping off a bandage - you either want to go really fast or really slow.

[@davidmccurdy8911]

Thats what I found with the Saturn, initially default settings caused constant fails to the point where I almost gave up, went slower (and also anyone with a Saturn, increase your lift distance, those big FEPs flex a lot!) Finally decided to go fast instead and it was just as good. Its only the middle speeds that cause issues.

[@Caveman89]

@@davidmccurdy8911 same here. Ever since going to 185mm (or 180, not sure) I have significantly less fails and whats even cooler, the prints are stupid fast. Printed out a couple modular 28mm Minis (legs and upper body seperated) in under an hour.

[@Chef_PC]

You really have to have your printer calibrated perfectly for vroom settings to not get fails. Not that you shouldn’t have that done anyway, but a lot of people don’t and that’s why they have problems with fast lift speeds.

[@davidmccurdy8911]

@@Chef_PC I think I have been super lucky then, I set them to the Sirya tech settings (even though I use Elegoo resin) ramped up the speed and off I went. I have had more problems over the last few days but I am putting that down to changing the mainboard so I had the top off so need to get my levelling just right again

[@Chef_PC]

@@davidmccurdy8911 I used vroom for a few months before my screen burned out (not likely related), and have just now gotten back to it. Fresh resin and having the printer dialed in really helps out everything though. I use Siraya Navy now almost exclusively because it’s moderately priced and I’ve had fewer fails than any of the other brands, especially Elegoo.

[@jordmc9253]

Putting supports into the vat for the cleaning process is genius, I've almost punched a couple holes in FEP trying to pry that sheet up.

[@ftkinney]

I 100% agree with everything in this video. I started with an FDM and now I have been using a Phozen Mighty 4K and it would not be fun without the accessories like the Anycubic wash & cure, I’d also recommend the magnetic and steel plate from Wham Bam.

[@f8keuser]

IMO the best way to go about it as a newbie like what I did was doing my research before buying a 3d printer, find out what I needed and go out and buy it, have it set up and ready to go before you buy your printer.

[@prauwnsauce]

Me and my gf just did our first test print on our mini 4k, the rook came out great and I CANNOT WAIT to start throwing models in. One thing I would love is maybe a “you got a 3D printer now what” video, I feel like I have the world at my fingers and I don’t know where to grab on.

[@Iskelderon]

As a space scale model builder I often use old support structures as "girders" in spaceship wreckage as the background of a diorama. Great for stuff like Gundams.

[@ThisOneNerdGal]

I have a Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k, and I can't recommend getting a Wham Bam magnetic plate for it enough. Getting prints off the plate is *so* much easier now, and the only reason I've had to use a scraper since has been to remove prints that failed cause it's too cold out. Go slow, keep the resin warm, and get magnetic plates. Made me fall in love with printing.

[@nathangerardy2669]

I really considered getting one of those until I got a super cheap solution. "FOSHIO 2PCS Plastic Razor Scrapers" still using the first blade and it gets all the prints off the metal plate easily. About $12 lifetime supply if blades. safe for my build plate and it just works.

[@ThisOneNerdGal]

@@nathangerardy2669 I've used those at work and they're great, but i find the plate is easier/faster, and I don't have to worry about pre-supported files that are so small they'll fall through the mesh of my wash+cure machine.

[@Transitionsband1]

Super late to the party, but I just got a printer recently, and thanks to your videos, and others around, I was so prepared. I've had 2 failures, both due to user error, but all of my prints have been amazing, really just due to following advice and calibrating. It's been so painfree. A friend of mine got into 3D printing a few years ago, and just became so jaded towards the whole process that he ended up getting rid of his printers, and I can't say I blame him, and if I had jumped on at the same time, it would totally be gathering dust right now, but the information out there is so much better than it was, and I am having the best time. Thanks for making cool videos like these

[@mamikonpainting]

Oh nice, I was thinking about getting a 3D printer to create scenic bases for my competition pieces. Nice!

[@mvm3897]

Phrozen printers ha e been awesome for me. I've had 3 brands and the Phrozen brand is the only one that worked the 1st time and have not given me any issues. The Phrozen 4K Aqua Grey is my go to resin now. It just works, doesn't smell and I have had zero fails with it. Great video.

[@DrDoktor60]

The resin fumes are poisonous so the smell help you identify if you have proper ventilation

[@huntliba]

Danny is awesome dude!!

[@DatFunnyPerson]

2:23 you acctually wanna cure that

[@Chef_PC]

I just upgraded to the Elegoo Mercury was and cure station. It makes the process SO MUCH easier.

[@Xaltotun]

You should buy a silicon spatula (slikkepott) to clean the fep. Avoids scratching the fep and you can easier scrape out all the resin left in there.

[@DatFunnyPerson]

I have the issue with my Saturn 2 that only big prints tend to fail at some point... its really frustrating.

[@aaronbono4688]

Okay, your video makes it look like loot studios did not provide pre-supported miniatures at one point. I've been subscribed to them from about the beginning and they have always had some of the best supports during each release. You may not have meant to suggest that but it really looks like a ding against loot studios and I think they are one of the best out there.

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

if you listen to what i say you hear that's not what i say, i've praised loot in plenty videos before

[@the_guitarcade]

That last tip is going to get me to try another print this weekend.

[@DreadWaaaghGaming]

Slick video dude! And packed full of useful tips, very useful for someone who already has a printer but is put off by the experience thus far

[@richardbradshaw5534]

I have an Elegoo mars 2 mono that i love. I use Elegoo black resin and have the calibration charts for the various colors of resin manufactured by Elegoo. Yes colors do matter and each has its own calibrations. I haven't had a failed print in a year or more now. The main thing is keeping the vat deposit free and changing the FEP every 50 prints or so. I use chitubox slicer and i keep an eye on the calibration settings as sometimes pre-supported models may also have the calibration set up already into the stl file and it might not match the settings of the resin.

[@Groundeffected]

Thant last tip , run 140mm lift speeds called zoom settings and i have sonic mini 4k not had a fail since and halved my print times. much slower on the mighty though.

[@MrAlmqvist96]

I fnn love your videoediting nowadays, your videos are soo fun to watch, bäst är du mannnnn!

[@jklappenbach]

Do yourself a favor, especially if you own your house: create a negative pressure setup. Enclose the printer in a grow-box made out of nylon material (like a tent). Many grow-boxes come with openings for 4" ventilation hoses. Locate the printer against an exterior wall, and have a handyman come and install a drier vent in that wall, up somewhat so that it's above your setup. Then, get an inline fan for a 4" ventilation hose, and connect the growbox to the fan and from the fan to the vent. PROBLEM SOLVED. Especially if you have animals and/or small children, the fumes from VOCs are really, really bad. Also, when you're dealing with the print, cleaning the vat, etc, get a mask with a filter capable of filtering out the vapors. The more you spare yourself the fumes, the better your experience will be with the hobby.

[@Aerogrow]

lol... first 2mins sums up my exact feelings on my resin printers.

[@kritique777]

Can you make a video on how to use and clean the new squidbrush? (the airbrush)

[@tabletopmika4349]

I have tried several times using old supports to peel off that resin sheet after using the clean vat function. It never worked. They never "merged" with the sheet.

[@ScaleTrainStation]

Squidmar, I love your creativity! not just in your painting, but in your videos as well. The drake meme with your head, and a creative way to ask for subs, instead of those dreadful, droning "like sub and share" monologs at the very beginning of the video. So I used my most important tool, that big red button :) Keep up the great work!

[@JosipL91]

I agree with all the point except for pre-supported prints. Because I tend to upscale my prints and make them into display pieces and not game pieces the miscommunication between the slicing software and the 3d printer morphs the premade supports into literal walls of resin that are hard to break off, leave holes in the models and just make the whole thing unusable. I guess in the end it just depends on what you want to do with the sculpts.

[@niemanduberhaupt895]

Funny, I actually really enjoy all of this maker-process you say you hate ^^. Maybe except for the mess...

[@Cdlzzl]

I don't have a lot of experience but i bought the reprapper 203 water washable resin and it has been fantastic

[@SeEdLeSsLEE]

mighty 4k* and Mega 8k * @3:08 FTFY ;)

[@mattevers4778]

Did i miss something in this video.....what are we saving the supports for?

[@chrissoohoo5465]

Putting them in the tank so when you use the clean tank function, the old supports become handles for you to pull the newly hardened layer out of the tank

[@Erebarus]

I was very surprised to hear that Photon Mono does not work well for Emil. I print on it for a year and not a single ruined print, I seriously - not a single one! Everything goes well, the resolution is high, and the miniatures adhere well to the substrate during printing, but then easily peel off with a scraper ...

[@miamijules2149]

Really?? Lolol dude how the fuck?! I have a Mono and it’s fantastic but, definitely, about 30% of my prints fail

[@postreinanimation]

Never had any issues with 3D printing at all. Just make sure your resin has a temperature above 15 degrees celsius and no hardened particles inside and you're good. I actually think 3D printing your minis is less work than cleaning terrible forgeworld casts or building the puzzles that modern GW sprues are. Not to speak about the good old white metal.

[@brokenentertainment327]

I was putting together a box of Wyches and had to retrain myself to assembly line glue because the newer models are all so specific you can't do it. Every single marine has specific parts that go in a specific way and god forbid one arm get on a different model or something. Used to be able to put a tactical squad together in like 30 minutes. As someone who has put together a lot of Forge World and these new kits, 3d printed models are way, way easier, absolutely.

[@ApocGuy]

It's GW policy; out gamee, our rules,our minis !!! Been playing with those for last 20 or so years, but always kept green stuff at hand for mods. 3d printing just made all that obsolete.

[@joslynjordan3818]

Try Siraya tech fast navy grey resin. Very high detail resin. They have print profiles for all major brand resins on their website.

[@MrWingedSpirit]

Give your editor a raise! Great video.

[@MADhorseKD]

Legit good advice in here and all nice and summarized in bite sized chunks :) Love it. I have always been iffy on the Phrozen models ever since it came out tht their rail systems were made out of a lower end quality and tend to bend. (which is extremely BAD) But looking at the newer (and especially the bigger) models, it might be that they fixed those issues. I might give them a try later. As for cleaning models, get yourself a nice and big ultrasonic cleaner for like 100 bucks (+- 10 litres), pop in some mr clean (cheaper than pure IPA and works just as good if not better) and let it run. You get a deep and intense cleaning and you can even heat the liquid to a set temperature, which helps with removing supports afterwards.

[@dewey40000]

I had only fails on my first printer the first day but then i changed the offtime setting and did better supports (thinner or thicked depending on the heavyness of the mini) My off time was at 0.5 and i put it at 1sec and suddenly it finnaly worked perfectly ! and since then i didnt get a single fail ! (well it's only been 3 days i have it xD but still i couldnt get a single succesful print the first day and now i'm really just printing non stop and didnt get another fail yet !)

[@johnbaughman7293]

Ooo… the supports idea is a HUGE win!! Didn’t think of doing that!! This makes printing even better just with that simple thing!!

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

I know right!!!

[@formysindesigns]

Yes Greg at 3d printing pro is literally a genius when it comes to these machines. Saved my printer from the gumtree! Love this vid squid! Keep up the good work. Wish I could paint as well as you!

[@eldritchsheep6801]

You should try Sunlu resin, it comes in a metal bottle, and is cheaper than a lot of other brands, and I find that it works really well on small details and minis

[@3djooboy]

Awesome, i've been looking for the next printer. I have an Anycubic and have had decent results but i want a higher xy resolution and that 8k Phrozen printer looks like the printer i've been waiting for (at a price that isn't wallet wrecking). Top job

[@aidanfordsword6954]

If you're still looking for a printer I would recommend the photon ultra, you'll have to wait for it come out on their website but I love mine, all my prints just look super great!

[@GuardianLords]

Is it cold where you print? I only have fails when its too cold. Once I turn the heater I put in the printer I've had no failures with any resin. (10+ different brands)

[@TheMrFishnDucks]

Great video and very informative. Keep up the good work.

[@martigo7152]

Wooo hoooo 8k. 🥳

[@T-Ingvarsson]

Extra vats are extremely good aswell.

[@michaelmccullough1034]

What do you do with miniatures that didn't print right? Can they be melted down to reuse the resin?

[@oliverp3545]

No once cured it's that way for good. But luckily its not alot that you'd be losing, and since you'll have parts of a mini, you can keep them in the bits box.

[@TheSpazztech]

You have to try water curing, night and day difference.

[@ttcurtright]

Disney is going to release the hounds

[@SelkaAndHorses]

anyone starting 3d printing.... Always have an FEP on hand and change it regulary. And level lifting table part every now and than. It gets loose.

[@lcillusionist10]

You’re trying to make us forget about the mantis. But we remember, enough of the smoke and mirrors, let’s see this monster!

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

This comment aged well

[@TheMiniJunkie]

#1 - super clever (especially using old supports to lift it out). Right now my two biggest beefs with 3D printed miniatures are 1) Brittleness (driving me CRAZY) and 2) layer lines (even at .03). Edit: lol @ that "what's going on" face in the animations. Vaguely disturbing!

[@Tomcat_Coyote]

I have the Photon Mono X and i bought Eco Resin because it allegedly smells less , but whenever you need to clean the prints and everything , it makes the entire room stink despite having the Elegoo mini Air purifiers inside the enclosure . Also , i have adherence issues with it . I will definitely try the Resins you mentioned , hoping i get better results with them !! :D

[@DavidRelich]

The mini air purifiers can only do so much, they're intended to remove the smell in a tiny space of the printer. It did make a huge difference when I started using them - no more nasty smells slapping my face when i remove the lid, haha. For the rest of the area, i installed a full size air purifier - seems to be working so far. I'd still prefer a hose with a fan straight through my window but that only works during warm days, not so much in winter time...

[@MrBizteck]

More tips....Im VERY LASY 1 So I get a magnetised steel printing plate. The prints just pop off the build plate no hassel. I got a cheap one off Amazon works perfectly. 2 When printing a lot of models I just leave the unwashed minis in an box. ( a silver take away box) ive left uncured minis there for up to 2 weeks just adding more minis as they print then when the box is full. Do a batch wash / cure Save SOOOO much time. As long as your box has a lid with no light filtering it causes NO issues. 3 water washable resin no Fking around with smelly ipa smells less game changer. 4 FEP tape ( i think thats whats its called ) around the edge of the screen to seal it. Then if you get a leak it wont flow into the printer killing it. Only change is I dont bother to use a paper sheet to level the plate any more as the tape actually gives me that little space. Oh and bonus tip Ive a Mars 1 and I printed a little grebel to stop the Z axis squish it sufferes from no idea if the newer ones had the same design fault.

[@DAMDARAMDAMDAAAAAMM]

I have to visit Ikea next week! This is such a damn good idea😅

[@Sgt40K]

I have the Anycubic Photon Mono, and those lift speeds seem extremely slow. I have my Lift Speed at 180 (140 for larger prints like tanks and vehicles)

[@mr.gingerbreadwizard447]

The first 40 seconds of the vid couldn't be more descriptive of my experience with the resin printers.

[@kayprins6779]

Where do you buy your IPA?, it seems extremely expensive in Sweden (I am up in norrland).

[@ParvizalthePainter]

I felt the first part of this video so much lol. Fine I will order my replacement vat and more resin. Lol.

[@hobbycrusaider4468]

Mate, my big hate is Isopropyl… I’ve found water based resin so much more fun to work with when I can clean my prints with warm soapy water!!!

[@rcrawford42]

Siraya Tech Fast resin recommends methanol over isopropyl, and I've found denatured alcohol (ethanol) works better than isopropyl as well.

[@rcrawford42]

Siraya Tech Fast resin recommends methanol over isopropyl, and I've found denatured alcohol (ethanol) works better than isopropyl as well.

[@patriklarses512]

as a fellow swede, would you mind share the brand for the funnel and filtration in the video (silen och tratten i plåt)

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

Köpte på clas ohlson för ett år sedan :)

[@ironreed2654]

Can we have a video on miniature photography...especially using a smartphone, not a DSLR and pro lights. I begin to feel like I could start painting twice as good and my photos would still look bad and make it hard to show off.

[@Lukas_squidsquad]

Emil made one over at the second channel, squidly bits!

[@ironreed2654]

@@Lukas_squidsquad Probably why I didn't know...never even heard the 2nd channel mentioned. Suppose I should be impressed, most push their 2nd channel hard.

[@quintongoddard7171]

I have also given up with the M70 resin, it is so temperamental. So many fails and so much wasted time.

[@Chig232]

Ok, I really like this video, so much so I subscribed. I mainly watched it to see what you use your left over supports for and that is a GREAT idea. However I continued to watch your vides, even though I got plenty of experience you never know if you are going to learn something new like the supports trick. Anyway I totally disagree with your Lift and Retraction speed. I understand your logic and I get it however I've been running a 240 lift speed and 300 retraction for almost a year now with great results. And again I see your logic for the lift speed but it's doesn't make sense for the retraction since that is the lowering process.

[@markgnepper5636]

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

[@Antesyd]

Do you throw away uncured resin in the trash?

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

Cure it in the trash :)

[@JakeDogg-RIP]

I love Squid! 🐶🥰

[@sbrevoltuion5]

The biggest caveat with phrozen is that there is not a screen protector that comes with it, for the love of god get a screen protector or you’ll end up buying another screen like I did.

[@sleepyboldhijack]

7:05 i just use a wine barrel and box w tinfoil lol

[@edeaglehouse2221]

Everything is so much more fun after emptying the wine barrel! Great tip! 🤪

[@nachot6592]

I actually prefer a Resin that stinks. That way I don't forget I'm using materials that generate lots of volatile vapors so I have an incentive to wear proper safety equipment.

[@ollieburnette9667]

Oh man...you have the might to Change lifes for the better!!! Thank you

[@mattapple2105]

I really enjoy watching your videos, what i like most is your honest personality, regardless on the topic you are working on they are al worth the watch. I wonder how much i do have to invest to get a real hassle free ( if that is even possible ) 3D Printer, they are just to many Brand Names flying around, that might be a little confusing if you don´t know much about 3 D Printing like me : )

[@Joe-Skynet]

hey man. i had the same problem with the m70 resin, fail after fail , until i mixed it with a resin that i know doesn´t fail me and since then i always mix the m70 50/50 with a easier resin and the prints mantain a high level of detail but are easier to print. why don´t you try it before letting the m70 go to waste

[@andrewplay5037]

Best way to remove supports without damaging too much the print?

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

dip in hot water first and theyll almost fall off and then clean up with a sharp knife afterwards.

[@MrBizteck]

Hot water is a hood idea. I use a fan heater let the washed mini sit in front of it for a minute and the supports pop off.

[@MrStatistx]

also not sure if you do that already, but remove them after washing, before curing. (use gloves obviously)

[@gadoyw]

Unfortunately have to disagree with "presupported" miniatures. 99% presuports are bad and made in lyche (which can be easily tracked down by some ridiculous support placements out of the blue). Additionally there are two type of presupports - one of them extremely thick which causes "thick" problems of the tips and cause subsequent quality problems. Another type are very cute little supports which can also leave very harsh support side and fail at all due to the lightness. If one wants to have a perfect model - the only option to support it himself. If the user is ok that model would inevitably have imperfections\small broken off pieces - then sure, presupports are life saver. Have been in resin 3d printing for a year, spent a lot of different resin, started with Kingroon Kp6 4k, tried Elegoo Mars 3 pro, Saturn 2 8k and honestly I'd say the thing I wrote is applicable in every single situation.

[@Endero]

In Spain we have the pickle tupper, we use them for olives 🤣

[@rhabeldibabeldi6812]

lol, when I started watching the video I was the 5 person to do so. After I finished and replenished the website, there were 6638 fiews...How fast can a community be?

[@fernandoarenas7762]

Cool video!!! What 3d printer do you think its better to print an entire Army?

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

Depends on army :) most 3d print patreons hae their prints pre cut for the regular phrozen mini 4k printers (or 8k) but something like a mighty 4k give more playing room and will be faster. The biggest one Mega 8k is epic for huge vehicles or dragons.

[@Hero1117a]

Thanx for the video

[@joninorth3585]

Don´t use those plastic spatulas. use silicon ones for cooking

[@edeaglehouse2221]

Silicone. The silicon one is for the build plate.

[@Grimmlocked]

It’s for sure it’s own hobby

[@NikkiAnnMarie]

I really don't think resin printing is at this point, with presupported miniatures and wider information available - in my view it's a bit like an airbrush, just another hobby tool with a learning curve. Most people don't just 3D print for fun, it's only a means to an end for cool models

[@Grimmlocked]

@@NikkiAnnMarie that's a fair counterpoint

[@jaxusmc1142]

I still can't find the courage...or money... to try it.

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

maybe find a friend who has one so you can try first?

[@rileyjessup2414]

Anyone able to give me their settings for uniz zmuds resin on a mono printer? I'm using the epax x1k and have never had trouble with any resin except this one, some prints have partial layer seperation and small parts just fall off the build plate sometimes

[@CapitalNick]

I'd rather spend a couple more minutes cleaning the vat than reducing the screen's life. Also, you can't just throw wet resin in the trash. It should be fully cured first.

[@paanjaan]

my most hated part is the resin ...stinky, sticky and i hope in future we find better materials to materialize our dreams

[@Lozoot2]

Anybody have suggestions for a good tough resin? I've been printing accessories and drone parts that need a good amount of impact resistance - I've tried some of the "abs-like" resins and found them to be too brittle

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

Most fast resins are more brittle unfortunately. One of the reasons i still don't enjoy painting printed stuff as much as casts. Try Z-Mud or M70, they are a lot slower but not as sensitive.

[@Lozoot2]

@@SquidmarMiniatures thanks for the tip! I'll definitely give that a try!

[@SquidmarMiniatures]

@@Lozoot2 Also there's a resin called onyx by phrozen, its a collaboration with loctite. now that i think about it that might be even better.

[@flixmac8265]

Get presupported stl. man, you know they work from the first printing.

[@zkfo6969]

I'm surprised, although I shouldn't be, at how many people just throw their resin clean up items like paper towels with resin on it, vat cleanups (like this video poster did) and more straight in trash. Once it's cured it can be thrown out but until then it is hazardous waste. So you need to protect yourself when working with it, but you can just pollute environment with it? Lol. See so many questions asked of simple things with resin printing that you can literally learn yourself with internet, KZbin, groups etc. I knew a lot before I ever considered buying. I wasn't a person who just thought oh that's cool I want one. Do things safely and correctly. And I see so many in groups saying oh I use water washable resin and then you hear how they rinse it in sink. Smh. No, you can't do that either. That's not its purpose

[@QuirkyEclipse]

Definitely recommend against using the included plastic spatulas. Use a rubber spatula and you won't scratch the fep. Also, use microfiber cloths to clean it!

[@GoobertownHobbies]

solid list! #1 was actually news to me, now I gotta see if any of my printers have a vat cleaning button!

[@MrBizteck]

Lol I havent cleaned my vat in 4 months just keep adding new stuff. Give it a stir and away you go. Even left it as an experiment for 3 weeks. Made ZERO difference to the print quality.

[@juhkystar]

@@MrBizteck Same. My resin vat just gets a good stir, then topped off with some new resin and another good stirring, it's set. I only clean the vat when I have to, and even then, you can just run the LCD test to solidify the entire bottom and just peel that off along with all the little failures sticking to the FEP. It's pretty fast and easy to recover from failures this way!

[@GoobertownHobbies]

@@MrBizteck I only clean when there's stuff stuck to the FEP :-)

[@karmaq8462]

It's in the menus , I have one on my epax 6 .

[@thrrax]

@@GoobertownHobbies Same here. I haven't really cleaned the tray in a year, just remove whatever gets stuck. Resin printing is somewhat situational and somewhat luck based. I never had the nasty problems that some people complain about.

[@axysanvilfist6269]

I’m actually allergic to the fumes/gasses given off as resin is hardened in the printer. Took the better part of a year & many doctors visited to figure it out… so I have a printer but it’s at a friend’s & he prints whatever files I sent him. I’ve been a patreon of Titan Forge minis for over a year & have always been pleased with their designs & presupports.

[@phillipmaciejewski9872]

That’s rough! I accidentally was too lax with my exposure early on and sensitized myself (had the full shebang, dried skin, blisters, etc) so now I break out if there’s even a bit of residue on my skin for a bit

[@BaseSteve]

Damn. hope y’all are doing OK.

[@tommymartin364]

What were your symptoms? I'm wondering if I'm in the same boat

[@limpx336]

Resin printers don't give off fumes when they cure... its just the smell of resin.

[@clemenshimmer9245]

Did you by any chance not wear a respirator/not install proper ventilation for your printer? People seem to mostly understand you need gloves, but they just straight up fail to understand that breathing the fumes contained in uncured resin can make you develop systemic health problems and - like in your case - make them develop allergies, in turn making them unable to operate a resin printer ever again.

[@kietzi]

what a click bait :( I wanted to know, why I should save the printed supports...

[@hatmantheQthemanz0r]

This was explained in the vat clean chapter. See 2:13

[@mirrikybird]

@@hatmantheQthemanz0r Thanks for the timecode, thats actually genius