600hp capable sentra spec v

[@AutoBodyEverything]

I’m kinda laughing watching my own vids, I need to touch on a few things I need to edit some things I pointed out, the injectors aren’t off a wrx, they are off an evo and the timing on this car are still the oem timing gears. I bought the car already built but it was in real shitty condition I had to redo the whole thing. At this point it’s ready for paint, all the bodywork is done and the whole car is in 2k primer and my door jams are already sprayed blue as well or as they say “cut in”.. I should do more footage on it but I got too many cars I’m doing at once.

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Hey everyone, Its been a while and the Sentra is painted and Ive replaced or repaired or restored almost every part under the hood. Some ppl wanted to see those dyno numbers and yea thats as legit as it gets but two things, eh... i mean Ive had the car to where the tires dont even stick to the ground 1-3rd gear and I kind'a didnt want to see the dyno numbers bcs I was more than happy with how it ran at 18-20 pounds boost and I didnt want to find myself tuning the car further than that and push it too far bcs Im still using stock sleeves. Forged rods, tubro cams and harder springs let me reach 20 psi and I know I was under 500 but I dont think a stock sleeve will hold 600 even if the forged parts can handle more than 20psi. THE NEWS IS.... Im going to build a better stronger faster motor. Im aiming for the actual 600 HORSE POWER and Im going to give all of you those dyno numbers!!! Im going with Darton sleeves, all forged internals, fully counter weighted, knife edged and coated crank shaft and Im upgrading a few other things but Im not trying to ruin the surprise. You guys called me out on it, so Im going to deliver lol. Subscribe if you already arent so I dont have to come back to old posts. Thanks guys!

[@chrisyo295]

I have Ser spec v that i put a nitrous set up to it. I'm thinking to do a turbo set up but i don't know still thinking about it. Nice video man keep it up 👊

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Turbo on a 100mm stroke block will put out a lot of thrusr and ftlbs torque. Just make sure you modify the chain tensioner and have an OEM phaser gear. forged internals obv..,

[@GimmeDaBacon]

It’s one of those things where I personally would get spark plugs from an ls motor or any other sports car and resize the spark plug thread on the qr head and slap those new boys in

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Interesting but why is that? If you don’t mind me asking..

[@GimmeDaBacon]

@@AutoBodyEverything to retro fit better parts since the aftermarket is a pain in the ass

[@Bigbrunibelow]

I like it bro I have a very similar turbo build and same interior but red and black leather ...ur engine bay clean as fuck though

[@MrSpecv93]

Amazing. Nice build man

[@702boy4]

Insane power for that car, that torque steering.. lol

[@AutoBodyEverything]

lol yea thanks, torque steer indeed...it took me awhile to discover that it was torque steer and what it meant. Before that, I thought something was broken.

[@AutoBodyEverything]

I have much more recent videos and its painted already... doing the interior now, all blue carpet and velvet. I used to have the car tuned at 20 lbs but that was useless bcs i dont have traction over 10lbs and in 4th-6th gear i shouldnt be more than 14 lbs bcs of detonation or blowing a piston ring so lately its been tuned at 10lbs with a new turbo that spools earlier so 10lbs feels like 20lbs used to feel and i have cooler exhaust temps.

[@Mr_SoulFresh]

What year wrx injectors did you use? Bty love the build 💪🏻

[@AutoBodyEverything]

650cc injectors.. Corvette coils and… walbro 450 fuel pump if I remember… I bought this car already built 5 yrs ago and I didn’t know JACK about turbos or the car I bought… by now I know tons and have taken this car apart and reassembled a dozen times and it’s virtually new right now minus the ware on the piston rings and cylinder walls, all else new. It’s not 700-600 hp lol no it’s not. I’m making a little over 400hp on 18psi. I should have newer vids up on a more recent condition of the car. Thanks for checking me out! Are you working on anything?

[@mjb242]

I forgot to ask, what car did your coil setup come from and did that eliminate misfires.

[@mjb242]

You mentioned 2000 vet got it

[@AutoBodyEverything]

So the ignition coils are from an LS1… the misfire instances that I did experience were once due to too big of a spark plug gap, so the boost pressure rushing into the combustion chamber would blow out the spark like a candle.., so I had to close the cap in order to get a more concentrated spark, so that let me get into boost earlier and more aggressive and was also able to run higher boost and more fuel. The second change I made was going to a 1 step colder spark plug, which has more ceramic material surrounding the electrode which is good for extracting heat away from the spark plug and it keeps the exhaust gas temps lower, so that meant I would get less knock or less to zero pre-ignition which means I can run more boost again and drive it more aggressively without engine fatigue. However I’m going to the a guess and say that you might be referring to when I was having engine trouble last year where one of the cylinders was accidentally pinching the spark plug shut which prevented the spark plug from achieving a spark, which lead to a misfire in that cylinder… we talked about it and tried to figure it out, but I could not find out what debris was in the piston chamber causing this to happen any time I came near reaching boost… long story short, it fixed itself!!!!….. this was when I got frustrated and I dumped the clutch under boost and pounded it 1,2,3rd gear and what ever was creating the issue must have just flown out the chamber and through the turbo and out the exhaust!… so the Nissan has been running just fine since then😎. I’ve accident been thinking about selling it since it’s been running well and reliable because I want to build a K24😃😃😃

[@mjb242]

@@AutoBodyEverything That is great information, I have had a lot of trouble with the coils leaking spark into the spark plug tubes and causing rough idle and missing, new coils would help for a while but eventually short out, I did just convert to the Audi coils and things are much smoother, I went with the 1 heat range cooler plugs and .025 plug gap, On paper the Audi coils are not as good as stock B15 but they do feel better when driving. I was thinking about the K24 or an IS 300 with 2jay Z but I ma not ready to give up on my Sentra yet.

[@AutoBodyEverything]

@@mjb242 …. that is such a freaking coincidence! I am actually starting a brand new build series on this channel! I am doing a K24A2 into a 98 Integra starting this new year! Although I do have an RC channel that I have been very busy with, I am coming back to my autobody everything channel, and there is going to be a very long built series on the 24 build with lots of episodes and high-quality 4K content and quality voiceover.😉🎬🎥🙏💪 As far as oil getting into your spark plug tubes, that happens a lot when you have crank case pressure that is higher than normal. You should have a crank case ventilation overflow canister, which we all know add the catch can. Try doing that and also add any ventilation that you can on any of the parts from the valve cover. You can do what I did, uninstalled the valve, cover and clean the hell out of it… Black PVC silicone and gunk the hell out of it from the inside and then let it dry. When you go to install it, install it like you would, and then add more black PVC silicone between the spark, plug tubes, andthe rubber gasket built into the valve cover to be sure nothing comes out. I have a turbo so I have a lot of crank pressure and that fixed it for me.

[@AutoBodyEverything]

@@mjb242 … you can also use a sweat band or a wristband and stick it inside the spark plug opening and make sure it stays towards the top, so that anything that leaks out well catch it, and will not make its way to the spark plug. My ignition coils and spark plug cables are different so all I have is the cable going into the spark plug tube so I have the space to do that. I don’t like using coil over plugs because they are inside of the valve cover and just get hot and they fail. Using an external ignition coil with a short plug running to it is the best way to go. It keeps all the components cooler.

[@damianduenas4069]

Where did you get your turbo kit from?

[@AutoBodyEverything]

I’ll tell you all about the build in a minute. This was built from scratch.. I didn’t know jack about turbo when I bought this car used and beat to snot and in poooor condition. I was told it had alllllll the bells and whistles but some of it was lies! What it had was eagle forged rods, harder valve springs, Apexi 2 air flow converter, Walbro 450 fuel pump, 650cc injectors at 50psi. fuel return line, adjustable fuel gauge, turbonetics waste gate, a boost gauge and an AEM Stage 5 clutch. It did not have forged weisco pistons! It did not have a Jim Wolf ECU! And the cams… I was told they were turbo cams but I’m not sure on that, I never went the length to prove it or not. So I apologize about the false claims in the beginning but NOW after 4 years of owning this speed v and REDOING the ENTIRE vehicle and a zillion hours of research, schooling and hands on… I know a TON about all types of turbo engines, tuning and building a turbo intended long block….. so now the turbo kit…. The turbo in this video was an eBay 68A/R single scroll T4-T5 oil cooled turbo with general bearing. I replaced it with an identical one but of course the spool want the same one. It spools much faster but I max that turbo out at 18 psi (with stock pistons) yes that’s right. The car DID run 20 psi on stock pistons, dont be fooled they’ll hold more than 10 or 14 psi, I did it for many years. The turbo manifold is short log style, it works well… I bored it out as much as I could and I noticed the difference. The MAF is placed IN FRONT of the turbo inlet! So it’s not going to leak or explode if it was under boost psi. The difference “they say” is a sloppy idle for a second when coming to a stop after high rpm but when I redid my entire timing kit PLUS new phaser gear, I did NOT have that problem at all! Inter cooler is a stage two single in single out .idk what brand but if it’s eBay it’s hella good one. Blow off valve is HKS I love the sound high pitch whistle. The down pipe is shady it could use a better one with less restriction as this one had with all the times it’s been welded. It’s 2.75” but it should be a 3” pipe.. other stuff the ignition coils are ls1 coils they work good. Stock motor mounts but they are filled with silicone calking and their good like that smooth and solid. The motor looks much different and better right now than it did then, I’ve done soooooo much more to it but I still want to upgrade the ignition system, at least the looks of it for now but I have a video up of this spec v, I think the video shows a good amount of what I’ve done,.. I’m just not that good with video edit software lol. I’m thinking of dropping a new motor in there bcs this one is burning oil from one cylinder and I want to build my own motor this time. Lastly I don’t believe this car was ever OVER 500hp lol but with proper schooling and knowledge I’d say it DID make 20 psi a few times but I kept it at 18psi SO… stock this motor is 175 hp so with 650 injectors and fuel pump you’ll likely reach 200hp with the exception of the Turbo AND at 14psi you will double the existing hp so I definitely reached over 400hp+ at 18-20 psi on STOCK pistons / forged rods for 3 years!

[@We_TheUnknown]

What kind of ignition coils are you using ?

[@AutoBodyEverything]

LS1

[@AutoBodyEverything]

I’m actually uploading a new video right now. I took missionaries on a ride lol. Should be uploaded in a few minutes.

[@We_TheUnknown]

Can you use the same LS1 ignition coils on a none turbo engine ? Or you need tune and more mods any recommendations I have a 02 Nissan Sentra Se-R and I want to gain a bit of horse power without installing a turbo kit yet

[@jonbrewton1809]

So is it better to get a sr20?.

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Jon Brewton : sr20 are built better and stronger out the factory and can hold more abuse. But not every sr20 is better than the QR25DE. They both have pros and cons. You don’t always have to have more hp than the other to be faster per say.., plus if your budget is let’s say... $4000 then you have two options. You can build a 300 hp sr20 or you can build a 400 hp QR25DE. One is rear wheel drive the other is front wheel drive. The sr20 has a cylinder bore of 86mm in diameter and the length of the piston travel is also 86mm in length so this makes it a perfectly balanced motor and it revs at higher rpm than the QR25DE which the piston travel of 100mm which puts a little stress on the crank shaft because the bore (piston chamber diameter) is 89mm which is bigger than the sr20’s bore but it does not match the piston travel(stroke) of 100mm so this makes the QR25DE unbalanced. But if you compare them both of them, the QR25DE will boost a turbo quicker than the sr20 because the pistons 100mm stroke blows out more exhaust pressure per stroke than the sr20 of 86mm stroke. The down force of the piston also drives the crankshaft with more power per cylinder, but does not rev as high rpm as the sr20. Choose your poison.

[@jonbrewton1809]

@@AutoBodyEverything dammnnn so its like 50 /50 how much did u dump into the car for it to be turbo

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Jon Brewton: I bought the car with the motor already built but the whole thing was a mess. I had to strip the whole car inside and out including the wire harnesses and recheck everything while making improvements and what not before cleaning and painting everything. But the cost of mechanical parts and accessories to accomplish a build like this is likely around $2,000 and if you shop wisely you can probably include the turbo kit in this budget, eBay turbos are cheap and good. You don’t always need to buy the best or most exp part for every application. Don’t go cheap on your pistons and rods with the rings or head gasket but you can go cheap on a turbo kit and SOME accessories but not all. You just need to have some experience to know where you can go cheap or not. Most ppl spend too much money on pistons just because they are built to hold 600-700 hp thinking they’ll have a motor they can do what ever they want at that point, but if your not building your motor that DOES produce 600-700 hp, you may end up with a motor that doesn’t produce anything at all lol. Parts and their description are very specific. If you only have a budget of like I said $4000 that’s money to buy parts and also have it built and assembled to torque specs, buy parts that are rated for the hp that the motor is expected to put out so that the mechanical components work together properly to mathematically produce that (400hp) range that was calculated prior to the build. Using higher performance pistons won’t give you any real performance benefits until those pistons are put through the extreme conditions they were meant to be exposed to.

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Check this out!!! You’ll like it and learn a few cool things😎 www.2j-racing.com/2jr-fully-built-qr25-engines.html

[@jonbrewton1809]

@@AutoBodyEverything thanks man r u on fb and the b15 group

[@xraytd8565]

Can u build my ser?

[@toysforboysrc]

Well between all the videos I put up on this car I’ve learned a lot by hands in and you tube. As far as autobody and paint I’m a master, but in mechanics I still have a long way to go because I’ve never built an engine from the ground up by myself even though I could talk about it all day. Turbo installation and tuning is pretty universal no matter what engine it is so that’s one plus of what I’ve learned on my own and there’s plenty of knowledge on that on YT. But when it comes to the QR25DE engine, there are not as many in depth videos as there are with Honda motors, b20, b16, k24 exc.. so I learned as much about Honda as I did about my own engine and I had to apply that knowledge into rebuilding my QR25DE. The only thing I didn’t do was take off my heads. So I did not rebuild the heads or block, but I did EVERYTHING else. Just don’t buy an aftermarket phaser gear like I did.. buy always oem parts when your building for performance.

[@xraytd8565]

@@toysforboysrc thanks for reaching out bro

[@toysforboysrc]

@@xraytd8565 … you’re totally welcome 🤙 if you have any questions or need help I’ll reply how ever I can.

[@xraytd8565]

@@toysforboysrc u have instagram?

[@xraytd8565]

​@toysforboysrc I'm a certified painter been in the game since 2015. Living the body shop life u know how tha go till I have my own. Just started a detail shop this summer so hoping for the best from this point on

[@carloscorrea1011]

Bro I need help with my sentra

[@AutoBodyEverything]

themost hated :talk to me..... I’m pretty familiar with Sentra. Is it doing that thing where it idles all funny and won’t pass 2200 rpm?

[@AutoBodyEverything]

themost hated is it doing that thing where it idles rough and won’t rev past 2200 rpm?

[@jonbrewton1809]

Shit i need help to lol

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Jon Brewton I know this motor really well. I’ve owned the 1998 1.8 Sentra and this 2002 spec v that’s the 2.5. ... there’s many things about this motor that not even the scanners can solve bcs this ecm does not always give you the right code when there’s an issue. You can also squeeze lots of hp with pocket change and you can also make this motor act up and run bad by changing the wrong things. You’ll thank me big time for this one., the QR25DE which is the (B15) was made from 2002-2006 and is the motor in the video that we’re talking about the factory imperfections. The QR25DE (B16) is the SAME motor BUT was manufactured from 2007-2012and sports car articles and statistics say this is the way it should have been from the gate! This B16 version of the QR25DE looks the same on the outside except for one or two things, and internally has all the corrections made that the older Nissan 2.5 (QR25DE) has from the factory. What ever you want to know just ask.

[@anuar.m.y]

sonme of the most common issues i have seen with the 2.5 are: >oil burning/valve seals >low rev like in the comments below/ bad mass air flow sensor >bad idle / precat going down >locked crank / counter shaft balancer locked in place and more than likely fatal engine failure and bent valves. the idle in this cars is Very weird and they are know for mostly the valve seal and the precat failure/clogging. the ECU is weird as mentioned below and can also contribute to the rough idle. good luck man. super torquee cars if done right.

[@gotheatsauce]

maybe 350

[@AutoBodyEverything]

nissan tech keeping it fully stock minus the turbo kit but those parts won’t last. Forged internals allow higher gains

[@gotheatsauce]

@@AutoBodyEverythingthey are fun I'm higher compression and fully forged internals fully built minus cams and retainers

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Just coming back to some old posts, 350 is what you would make adding a turbo with stock internals and possibly even stock fuel injectors and fuel pump. ive already posted more recent stuff on the car but Ive got bigger plans for it.

[@armiro84551]

600 hp? Hahahahaha I bet this pyle doesn't even have 300 whp lol nice try.

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Armando Miro I have other vids doing pulls in this car.

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Plus you can do a lot with a 100mm stroke and a fully balanced and tapered crank shaft and counter weights delete. This car is Jim wolf everything even the ecu is a Jim wolf reflash compression is still 10:1. Looks aren’t everything even the plugs are 5 steps colder. Factory is a heat range of 6 while my plugs heat range is at 11 with NKG. With race fuel it will land in the 600hp range @ 20lbs boost. Right now I’m @18 with pump premium and octane booster still in the high 500hp range 😎

[@armiro84551]

Keep dreaming bud, take it to a dyno and prove it.

[@AutoBodyEverything]

Armando Miro that would be the only real way to prove it on YT except for those who understand fuel mapping and efficiency. Honda 2K engines reach 600hp themselves with only pistons and rings. With the exception of bigger injectors, fuel pump and spark gap and heat range, it’s mostly stock and will just need a real tune.

[@chriseller6402]

i agree with armando put it on dyno before you start saying you have 600 hp it takes alot o money to make that in one of those cars i have one and have done the r&d