6013 Stick Welding Tips

[@gingetaylor4489]

I teach apprentices here in the UK. A majority of the welding exercises and testing are from the books produced by two training organisations, EAL (Excellence, Achievement and Learning Ltd) and the EiTB, (Engineering Industry Training Board). These two institutions detail the parameters of the welding practices and list the consumables to be used in each practice. The rods that are required are 6013's. The downside is that the practices and tests were written in the late 1960's to mid-1970's. Although the fundamentals are still the same, equipment changes and welding methods are always improved upon. It's up to the welding instructor to add up to date information on the content of the training package. I use your videos on youtube and the DVD's I've purchased from your store to back up key learning points. For those apprentices employed as TiG welders, I recommend that they invest in your TiG fingers. Top Item, really helps. The students over here aren't taught to weld vertical downwards as it's considered incorrect practice. Cheers buddy, keep up the great work.

[@gordon4385]

Well, for someone who doesn't like 6013, you made some damn nice welds and decent re-starts.

[@jojomama4787]

6013 has always been known as basically a sheet metal rod:fairly smooth,low penetration welds,also think you gave great advice with the right to left,left to right stuff and for the beginner to pay close attention to the difference between the puddle and the slag is,of course,of critical importance...all in all I think you gave a good lesson that should work for pretty much everybody,thanks!

[@Zimbertica]

Currently taking a welding class and have been working with 6013 and recently tried EN instead of EP and it makes a world of difference, doesn't stick trying to start the arc and lays down much smoother.

[@TrillMurray]

I'll have to give this a shot. Thanks!

[@haroldbrown6630]

Outstanding videos. I am a middle aged paper pusher. Inherited a shop (forge, anvil, vices, MIG, Stick, tables, etc.). To honor my deceased friend, I and his cousin are learning how to blacksmith and weld . . . . I dream of having the skills and knowledge that you share. One weld at a time . . . . Much obliged.

[@paddlepower888]

KZbin led me here. Thanks. I have been practicing with 6011 and now 6013. You nailed my problem: not enough current (fear!) and not enough angle. Yesterday, I figured the sparks had to fly out of the arc--seeing the sparks fly for you confirmed that. 6013 seems less violent than 6011.

[@esqalways]

That was an amazing video on refreshing my old welding skills. Thank you for the recap. Been tinkering with welding again after 25years of not touching a stick

[@bransonred1]

More rod angle is a great tip. I use 6013 on the farm a lot and have found that increasing the rod angle makes a huge difference, and like you mentioned combined with more amps and tight arc, I've come to like 6013 and it's become my go-to rod for most projects outside of my shop. Mainly because it's just easier with my service trailer and dc inverter stick welder. Great content, thanks!

[@TheManFrayBentos]

Good to see the 6013 being covered, as it's pretty much all that's available locally. Interesting to hear your observations on it, and I learned a couple of things. The 6013 here is sold widely in farmer's stores and just about every hardware place that has any welding kit. I have to use it, as there's not much choice. Fortunately, the rods sold locally are usually decent makes, like INE. Of course, the cheap no-name rods can be much worse.

[@larrysperling8801]

as an apprentice in the steel mills in the 60's i learned to weld with 6013. all the maint welders wore a leather pouch filled with 6013 and 309 rods. this pretty much guaranteed they could repair just about anything in the field with any power source available when i bought my first welder for home shop use it was the old tombstone ac buzz box. and my goto rod was 6013. every job has a rod that will perform better than 6013 but 6013 is a decent all purpose rod that doesn't get any respect. good video thanks jody

[@d.slater3958]

I use a lot of 6013 rods with my powerarc welder. They are a good general purpose rod.

[@RoyFabian]

6013 is an awesome general purpose rod. 7014 is almost exactly like a 6013, but a little more aggressive. Almost like a cross between a 6013 and a 7018. Works better than 6013 for something thick.

[@terrydriggers5217]

@@RoyFabian well stated.

[@mitchkronowit3633]

Thanks for making and keeping these videos available. Your channel has become a visual reference library. I’ve been working on a small ornamental steel fence and decided to use a box of 6013 I had laying around. Well, I was having an aggravating time with slag inclusions and couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong. I decided to consult the “Guru”. Well, it turns out I viewed this video a while ago, but watched again in entirety as a refresher. Boy, did my 6013 welding improve overnight! The 3 takeaways I applied: 1. Increase the stick angle to 30°. It felt a little weird, but really helped. 2. Move faster. I was going too slow trying to lay down a nice wide bead, but that slow travel was letting the heavy slag layer fall into my weld pool causing a mess. By moving faster, I literally outran the slag. Sure, I got a thinner bead, but it was clean. I simply laid down another bead or two to build a larger weld. After all, welding is more fun than grinding. 3. Increase amperage slightly. This allowed a tighter arc, faster travel, and avoided sticking That was it! My welding with this rod improved 3-fold! Thanks again Jody! Once this project is complete, gonna break in my new TIG finger and weldmonger F-clamp!

[@terrydriggers5217]

Always heard negative things about 6013's. I picked some up today and used them to weld c purlin down to a small trailer floor. Dialed in the maps for the 3/32" rods and they worked great. Ideal rod for thin metal. I have a mig, but wanted to try these. Followed your tips and am pleased with the results.

[@sephangelo4603]

I heard that some Korean 6013 rods weld beautifully and you also get to see the slag peel off.

[@scottcarr3264]

Hi Jody, I'm Australian and I worked in a big steel mill in Australia. We only had AC welders in the workshops I was in and 6013 was THE main rod we used. We used "some" 6012 and 6011, but being a Fitter and turner we were not "Allowed" to do Fabrication (the boilermakers did all that using 7014, 7018, and 7024's) So I got used to burning 6013's. When I did an advanced welding course at Tech College we used a lot of 7016 twin coat electrodes. I really liked them.

[@scottcarr3264]

B.H.P. Steelworks Newcastle, New South Wales.

[@thomasbowyer9254]

These tutorials are very well structured. Thank you for being so patient and descriptive. You're funny too. These videos will be a lot of help for me now and in the future. Please continue to make them.

[@johnallen8680]

John here from the UK. Being a small island there aint a lot of cross country pipelines here like in the States.. Also, in commercial heavy gauge welding MIG has largely taken over this task. This is probably why we dont use 6010/6011 . In fact most welding suppliers dont even stock it ! Its lack of availability makes it a bit like living in Cuba ! So yes as far as welding steel is concerned, the UK is all about 6013 and 7018 .

[@Phoenix-One0922]

I only had 1/16" - 6013 Rods last week for welding 18 gage sheet metal and I don't know if it was my Fronius TransSteel 2200 but I managed to make Micro-Beads no wider than 1/8" with these Rods on inside and outside corners with just 24-27 Amps! Very useful Rods with a nice appearance and easy peel slag. Easy to re-start as long as you DRAG the Rod to keep the slag at bay.

[@octane9092]

Thanks weldmonger I'm going to try this technique in about a month in my welding class. I watch your videos and you sir really help me out alot thank you for the videos. And I hope I make a career out of this. I didn't know nothing about welding but now every video and with school I'm learning. Thanks again

[@archersfriend]

I have not been to any welding classes. I just learned by doing and asking questions to welders around work. I bought some 6013 rods on the advise of the welders and welding supply shop to do Thin welding on sheet metal type things and it seemed to do ok. My old Lincoln 225 AC only machine that I bought in the late 1960's still goes if needed, but I use a Ranger 8 that I bought in the mid 1900"s for most of my stick welding. Nice to have the DC feature on it. Thanks for you great videos.

[@Drexcyia]

5:39 I've never realized how much I love that sound until today HAHA been hearing it for YEARS and never took it into such consideration.

[@paintball130]

Signed up for a beginners welding course at the local vocational school by my house. Doing my first bit of welding this Monday night, so i'm learning up so i have at least half a clue what i'm doing :) Thanks for the tips and inspiration, Jody!

[@WV591]

favorite rod. easiest to strike an arc and weld with . perfect for beginners.

[@frez777]

This man knows his craft. These videos are excellent.

[@billshuey7422]

Thanks for the great tips. 6013 is the most common rod here in Thailand others are not readily available. After a couple of months searching I was finally about to place an order for some 6010 and 7018. Now I am a happy welder again.

[@UDoIt2]

Thanks Jody! I never welded before but I have a 2019 black friday 210mp that I bought - it's been in the box for a year and I have to learn how to weld some bar stock onto some square tubing - I'm going to give the stick a try. Hope to see you again at WorkbenchCon next year!

[@giorgiodukkoli5358]

I use 6013 a lot, i'm not professional welder, i work in a farm and to weld not clean metal, for small fix(doors hinges, fences...) but also temporary weld on big stuff they work great. Used couple of times to tomporary fix some machinery, some pice broke in the morning, quick stop, run few beads and patch it and moved on, i'll later re-fix it with 7018 or bring it to the local mechanic-welder

[@AlamarianJ]

If I have to weld on nasty metal, I prefer 6010/6011. Doesn't look as good but if it's too dirty to weld with 6010/11, it's too dirty to weld.

[@IsaacOLEG]

well noted, in case no 6010 available, second choice would be 6013 with a high dose of cellulose in the coating .. they are easier to find for me (but I dont have to weld critical applications, I would get some if ...regards

[@alexrodriquez6451]

When I first started learning to stick weld with my everlast stick welder I was told by a friend to avoid 6013. I never asked why. I've always used 6011 and 7018 myself.

[@IsaacOLEG]

Alex Rodriquez yes, bad reputation follows you all life ;) 6013 is easy for first steps, then one notice what it is intended for( fast motion quick fill for thin steel for instance) Good training to avoid slag inclusions I think, then 7018 ask a different technique but mastering the 6013 puddle help a lot. The price is more or less the same with Lincoln I think. It is probably not the ideal structural weld but for tables or not too exigent assembly they may do the job.

[@MrCoffeekelly]

we call 6013 farmer rod

[@ambisinisterengineering5242]

Appreciate the time you take to do these videos really helpful as this is the most common rod available and is a tricky one to see the puddle.

[@RoyFabian]

I like 6013 rods. Learned to stick weld way before i touched a mig and just got used to these when welding on thinner steel. When used right on DCEP, they lay a good bead without burning through the piece or warping bad (comparatively speaking).

[@harveystedham9490]

I'm not sure why, both in the UK and here in Australia the 6013 is the default non low hydrogen rod! I did 10 years on site in the UK and it was all 6013 (vodex), they get the job done but not ideal! It's very hard to get 6010/11 rods here in Australia, and basically impossible to get 7014 which i think would be a great all round rod (going off what I've seen/heard but I've never used myself). I've been out of the UK for 10 years now so not sure if things have changed.

[@luciusirving5926]

The good thing about modern 6013s is that they have cellulose in the mix. Almost like having a 75% argon with 25% CO2 in a single 6013. Different mixtures, different results.

[@lendavidhart9710]

Thank you for posting/sharing, i have seen guys bend rods before, but not like you did in this video. Really appreciate your videos, i know i learned more in the last 20 videos, than i ever knew about welding in my life

[@mork6911]

Thanks for your video, I am a cabinetmaker so glueing wood together i can do BUT steel aarrrggg so after watching your tips should be able to weld my hinges onto the garden gate ( prey for the gate ), cheers from South Australia

[@morrismadison3555]

Thank You Very Much, I really needed to see how the torch cables connected to the welder cables! So it has been maybe 60 years since I had the chance or should we say the need. I too picked up this old equipment to see if I can still make it work!!

[@experttrolltrollingdirty2062]

Yeah 6013 is more popular over here it's not my favourite but I do like it iv done all sorts with 6013 some you wouldn't believe I learnt to weld with a 100a buzz box and 10kg of 6013s lol and your videos. And other welding videos, a few years ago now ..when I was young I always wanted to weld since I knew what it was but unfortunately never did it professionally, but it was these videos that made me realise I could learn by just doing it. And I bought a £40 100a buzz box and never looked back lol and I still have it and actually use it quite often, more than the mig

[@kootzierboobzov8012]

You talk about practicing alternate directions. But as a pipe welder. You should also talk about practicing alternate hands. Every welder should be ambidextrous.

[@julianlohss9356]

kootzier boobzov agreed.

[@jamesjohnston9195]

Why?

[@user-mt9tn1ni4g]

@@jamesjohnston9195 you'll find out if you use welding as your career and main source of income... if this is the case believe me... that little tidbit of being ambidextrous.. will be advantageous to you for dozens of reasons

[@haydenlindholm]

James Johnston it’s because as welder you can’t always be in the best position to use your dominant hand and it’s easier to just switch hands

[@jpguidry9062]

@@jamesjohnston9195 if you weld on a different side of the object

[@miked9104]

Outstanding, thank you. 👍🏻👍🏻 6013 rods are quite useful to me for outside corner welding. If you’re an amateur.....and burn holes in things on occasion....but seriously....useful rods with thinner material. Material under 1/4”.

[@mdwasimali6980]

Osm sir.. Aap bahut accha welding karte hai or aapse bahut kuch sikhne milta hai.. I like your all videos !

[@truckerray7533]

I have an ole Lincoln AC 225 AMP arc "buzz box" welder that ive been practicing with & having alot of fun. I have 1/8" 6013, 1/8" 7018, & the smaller 5/64" 6013 rod. Of the 1/8" 6013 rod. . .what's the next best rod to use in line? I don't much care for the 7018 & havent been using it much. I guess it's called a "fast freeze" rod??? I do like both sizes of the 6013 rod. Thankya for sharing this video.

[@jerrybobteasdale]

And even if you intend to hold a steady, un-veering path with the electrode, swing a bit from side to side at the start to get both edges melting. 6013 can fail to get thru rust and scale, and while the puddle might look OK, it's so obscured with slag that you might not see how the edge is failing to penetrate.

[@christian196]

This helped alot because I've just started welding, thank you.

[@davewhittle729]

I use them all the time. 6013 good all position rod. Show us you take of up hill. Grate video.👍

[@mikef-gi2dg]

My stick is going to take a lot more practice..a lot more...I am starting to understand why I am struggling with the 6013...as a long time rookie welder wanna be...my ac225 has the juice, it don't flinch at all... my Lincoln inverter maxes out at 90 amps with 3/32. I can try all three things like he did here, but I will stick to 3/32...should be interesting or hilarious....gonna need a lot more practice...great video!!!!!

[@Goalsplus]

Thanks Jody. I only have the opportunity to do FCAW but I manage to pick something up from all your videos. I appreciate your presentation manner and in-depth knowledge.

[@danyoung444]

as a welder from the u.k i can say i like the smell off a 6013.. takes me back collage days lol

[@olegsuvorov7909]

Hi Boby. I live in the eastern part of the EU (Baltic states), early it were the part of the former USSR. Can you tell me anything about welding schools (collages) in the UK? I mean how long to study to be a professional welder (stick, MAG or TIG), how long will be a practice (at factory? or at school?). Do you have any professional welder`s master levels in the UK (I don`t mean the welder`s sertificate) ? Do you know any good welder`s schools in the UK? How much I need to pay for the studying? Thank you

[@danyoung444]

Oleg Suvorov they teach you to weld......

[@olegsuvorov7909]

ok, its funny! good joke, thank you

[@zhiruxa_petrovna]

Олег, а кто такой Боб? Откуда он может быть в курсе, как там с обучением сварке в UK? Кроме того, что он артист... больших и малых академических театров... и практически всех автономных республик.

[@olegsuvorov7909]

Макс Сергеев да, похоже на то. Про Европу мне говорили, что только в Германии есть серьезное обучение. Англия выпала из процесса. По сварке понимают в России, Германии и Штатах

[@bikesfightback]

I'm a pipewelder from US that is currently living in the UK. i was amazed the first job i went on and they wanted me to use 6013 rutile rod. job I'm currently on is having me do the entire weld, root and all with it. it makes for a hideous root. all the welders let the boss know... but they use it because its cheaper

[@georgelewisray]

Interesting that 6013 is used and liked in the UK for pipe. I guess it's nice that at least someone likes 6013 . . . . I was raised in repair shipyards and 6010 was always the goto for hull plate and most miscellaneous welds..... so 'fast freeze' rods are my old friends. Lo-Hydrogen,7018-ish was not my every day rod. The 6013 'fast-fill' always reminded me of lo-hydrogen, could you compare/contrast the way the puddle looks and the way they run with 7018-ish rods? Do you see any similarities?

[@mceperformance8978]

They drive on the wrong side of the road too, so that should tall you something. lol 7018 & 6010 are my goto rods, but Jody could weld with a rusty coat hanger and it would still look great (and hold).

[@mceperformance8978]

The only time I use 6013 is ornamental or when someone wants me to let them stick weld. They do lay down a pretty bead.

[@dorsetengineering]

George Ray the puddle lacks the easy differentiation line between metal and molten slag. A typical high quality 6013 requires a decent amount of arc force and rod angle to keep the slag pushed back. Cheap ones are total junk, decent brands are excellent...

[@jdbrewer6638]

Great video as always, really liked the cut and arc shot of all the polarity. Thanks Jody!!!

[@weldingtipsandtricks]

JD Brewer thanks JD. Let's do a project

[@olegsuvorov7909]

Hi Jody. I always with a great interest watch your videos. Because english is not my native language sometimes hard to understand you. But! I really like the quality, the theory, like the support devices you use in your videos. Thank you.

[@MasterHustler]

Jodi, your videos are always great. I have 3 welding playlist on here based on the 3 main types of welding. Thank you.

[@thomasbartlett6771]

Great informational and professionally Quality Video. You among other welders don't care for the 6013. What other rods would you recommend for 16 gauge automotive exhaust pipe and sheet metal repair? Thanks !!

[@JonDingle]

Great video young man. I always throw 6013 rods over to about 30degrees. You can see the weld pool quite easy and the arc force (For use of a better term) pushing the slag wave back and away from the weld pool. I also keep the amps fairly high too to help get penetration. 6013 are not easy in vertical up or down in my opinion. The weld finish can be very nice indeed.

[@Equiluxe1]

Here in the UK you go to a welding supplier and more than likely the only rods they carry are 6013. I find that they work best with DCEP the rods melt or burn faster but there seems to be less slag trapping that way. I find it surprising that there is supposed to be more penetration with DCEP as it is the positive side that gets hotter just like in tig so the work piece in theory should be slightly colder with DCEP.

[@stephenleacock4371]

Equiluxe1 i agree , all you can bloody get most places here unless you go to specialist suppliers

[@IsaacOLEG]

Equiluxe1 yes but the DCEP generate speed for the ions or something approaching. More heat too as the heat is not in the base where it can cool faster. It is strange indeed but it is as adding fuel to the rod so it makes another way if putting the weld I think. Many pipe welders use DCEN just for first pass, to get a quiter arc and less large puddle..

[@ashleymenton1369]

That pretty much all we use is 6013 although Amazon.com are cheaper for 7018 shipped than I've found in the UK even better for welding jackets two

[@BrucesShop]

I use 6013 on ac. I don't use it for any thing that carries vibration but It is good for shop fabrication and finishes off well.

[@davidhawley1132]

I’m confused about DCEN vs DCEP. The explanation I heard was that for DCEN, electrons are coming off the rod and then slamming into the work piece at speed. The target of the electrons (=positive side) is where 2/3 of the heat is delivered. So if the work is positive (DCEN) you get penetration, and if the rod is positive (DCEP), you get fast deposition. Is that right?

[@tomt9543]

Lincoln Electrics literature on their stick electrodes has always said that, for instance on 6010 rod, if you’re welding thin steel, run DCEN to reduce blowing through the steel. For thicker steel DCEP is the correct polarity. I was involved in doing an AWS WPS (weld procedure specification) for overhead 3/32” 6010 on 16 gauge (I think) butt weld steel. DCEN made a good weld without blowing out. DCEP, not so much!

[@majorrgeek]

I'm starting out to weld up steel veranda with 3, 4 and 8 mm galvanized steel posts, beams and rafters - I plan to clean the galv off the weld areas and use 3.2 mm 6013 and 6011s with UNIMIG Viper 185 - MIG, TIG and Stick all in one welding machine - the other option is gasless MIG wire - can you suggest any advice as my welding background is rank beginner with little past experience

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

I always thought of 6013 as a rod for sheet metal or as a filler/cap over a 6011 root. And for a non-professional who might only use a few rods per month there are no hydrogen-embrittlement open package storage issues like 7018. Certainly not a rod for critical applications, but it is cheap and easy to keep on hand and critical welds are likely to be hired out anyway.

[@dorsetengineering]

Nice to see the uk crowd commenting on here. We're spoilt with high quality 6013's... someone said they don't run well vertical up? That's a walk in the park weld for a decent 6013 with the settings dialled in.

[@chrisplayz253]

Ì use oerlikon overcord z s they run well In all positions even downhill :)

[@thelastgs-pian9965]

you mentioned dcep has greater penetration , but other videos advise using dcep for thin metal as penetration is low. I am trying to weld a ladder from 1 inch square tubes and just not getting it, either it blows through or the welds dont stick .

[@Grimmjar]

A little off topic: I can´t choose Germany in you online shop. Would like to order your Tig-fingers and DVD´s.

[@hphillips7425]

Very nice welds. Which AC rod do you prefer for DIY projects ? I mostly Fab with1" angle and flat bar black iron 1/8" thick.

[@tntltl]

thank you Jody love your videos I'm welding sheet metal and the 6013 is the most popular rod where I am. So thank you for your demonstration.

[@MrMalarix]

If I may make a comment , thow I am not profesional welder, I work in constructions and here in Romania 6013 is the most popular rod used mostely for rectangular tubing and more, I personaly have burned more than 300 lbs of this stuff and it is a very useful rod, maybe because is so diferent than 7018 wich is also polular here but for structural welds; like Jody I prefer AC if it is posible because most portable invertors can' t weld AC , BUT welding with 6013 is an art on it's own, keeping a tight arc isn't always posible nor desired, when it commes to simple horizontal filets is the way to go or overhead, bot most of the times it takes skill to really do electrode manipulation because it is a fastfreeze rod and because of the slag, also it is not a verry hot rod, 3.20 mm is alot diferent then 2.50and even 2.00 mm, the slag can easyli be pushed out of the podle when needed (one should first try to do gouging with 6013, yes cutting with mma ) and one must 'feel' the piece that is welded , it can be to cold so longer arc or it gets hot fast and restarts like in tacks when the piece is to hot, all this will result in a verry good looking weld strong enough for most types of bodge work or non critical welds in the worst conditions eve, rust, paint, bad wheater, or simply for doing guality square tubing products with simple machines

[@weldingtipsandtricks]

good points! I am trying to keep an open mind and revisit the benefits of 6013 rods.

[@thebrokenbone]

excellent description of the peculiarities of 6013 man (tho i wouldn`t say it`s fastfreeze but light penetration). i live doing 13s all day long and it`s exactly how to deal with them. regards. pete

[@henryrollins9177]

Alexandru Alanei Exactly the same situation about rods use here in Argentina. And gouging with 6013 is a good practice to "catch the feel" of these rods.

[@johnduggan7428]

When doing lap joint do you do u bring the rod up and down to make a wide bead. Any tips on flat butt joints

[@johnduggan7428]

@@weldingtipsandtricks how wide do you make your bead,would you keep it the same diameter of the rod, a little more or 1and a half times the rod

[@douglasalan7786]

The 6013 red extra by Hilco is a fantastic rod. I run it quite a bit with an ac Lincoln. Thin is good with them because they lay it quick. 7014 is my fave but at 18 ga or thinner I grab the red extra 6013..less penetration and you can speed drag at about 60 amps ......( if the 140 mig is not within reach.) JC, Put your hands on 332 Red Exrtra. I think you'll be surprised

[@RoyFabian]

Years ago before mig welding was common and affordable, 6013 is what was used for welding sheet metal. Its smooth running and puts down a sizeable bead without putting too much heat into the work.

[@JerryDoe]

6013 is good to learn welding ? i want to make a fence for my driveway but the metal to weld is really thin, so i guess these 6013 rods dont blow holes that easy in the metal ?

[@leonardpearlman4017]

That's what they say. That's what "low penetration" means.

[@allenmckinney9533]

I've been using Lincoln 3/32 7018 with decent results but I got some of HF 1/8 7018 and I can't get them to weld under 135-140amps and even then it's not too good. I don't know if I just got a bad pack or HFs new volcan brand of rods suck.

[@arshbirsingh5613]

Thank you Jody. You're a big help man I'm a new welding student and your videos are awesome

[@lanreakerele4375]

Could you please make a video of how to do vertical up/down with E6013 electrodes?

[@KlomboFanClub]

Loved hearing the sound of the buzz box w birds singing in the background

[@scotthaselbauer8267]

Jacuzzi action , lol, and I'm going to get out of my comfort zone and start practicing left to right, right to left and with both hands , im right handed and I need to ,like u said , while I'm practicing in school , get use to using both my hands and with them right to left left to right , uphill and downhill on all positions

[@appallokelley3207]

I sure do love your videos and instructions.

[@fraggingremlin3868]

I’m in welding school and they are having us do pads with 6013....mine are awful....tried 80 amps like my instructor suggested...bumped it up to 95 to get rid of the stick.... but every time I do a pass it’s like the pass before it just disappears and the plate before the new weld is kinda brown looking...any advice on here for a greenhorn like me? Ps.. it’s my first weld EVER

[@donniebrite9170]

I am running a eutectic 225 with 6013 and I haven't welded in a long time I wanted to know if you filed it before brushing the weld also my welds keep cracking when they cool how do I stop that from happening? I enjoyed the video you make it sound easy haha

[@92Pyromaniac]

I lost it at the frog in your quench bucket :D

[@blubberknuckles]

seems that part of the video was removed😢

[@aopstoar4842]

I just inherited a bunch of 6013 packages and bought a cheap stick transformer, but nothing worked. It just smoked and the stick got stuck in the material. The transformer only gives AC and the 6013-package says AC 50V. The machine seems to give 48V and i can set the Amperege between 40-160A. What would be a recommended stick for such small transformer? It should have similar properties to the 6013 which have been with adequate success on a larger machine which has since died. I am certainly only a hobbyist with my first try today. I would like to thank you for the wonderful videos I have been following for a couple of years.

[@StagArmslower]

Set it for 100 to 120amps depending of the rod thickness, if it still stick add few more amps. Should be good for 6013 assuming you have adequate power supply to the welder

[@Simmothediydad]

I use 6013 rods a lot on the farm I personally think they are great.

[@mitchkronowit3633]

My welding instructor from years ago called 6013 “farmer’s rod”. Good general purpose stuff. I’m using some now to build a fence and gate.

[@das250250]

" set current so a stick in tight arc wont arc out and keep a tight arc " ..great will try . What stick would you go to after getting proficient with 6013 . As in getting deeper penetration but still maintaining a general purpose rod

[@wailnshred]

Jody, you said you are welding right off your back door. How close to a house do you feel is safe? Asking so I don't burn down my house.

[@DrakeMcmillan-r9g]

Im 14 and got really good at welding with my dad and Its one if my jobs, but anyways I use 125, 135 is that alr or what?

[@patrickmoore1017]

I learned to stick weld on a 6013 in high school. I like it. Lol.

[@PeakyBlinder]

What would you use over 6013, For general welding.

[@chrisjones6165]

Always had trouble with rod angle. Got me a stinger v and no more issues! Would def recommend

[@imwhatim7259]

This helped me a lot because I'm learning to weld, I have a DC arc and Tig welding machine 200A ( 2 in 1 machine ) thank you for this video : ) happy welding

[@arturohernandez6312]

He's a great person Sharing good knnowledge.

[@crankyjew2d2]

I've found on stick like 6013, 7014 or stainless rods, running on AC helps agitate the puddle and pushes the slag back out of the way.

[@andreblais9960]

Great info , like your presentation skill. Question I started welding after I retired in 2013 . And I love it . I'm using an old AC Fourney 225 Cougar could be a couple years older than I am. Time to upgrade welder ,watched your video with your buddy that uses Lincoln 210 m.p. Is that what I should get ?

[@eljockermanijaa9776]

Hi Jody! Sorry for my rusty English, im from Argentina. Have you weld with 6012 - 12D rods? There will be nice to see a few tips and trick about that rod. Thanks for your time. Best regards. Lucas

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

6013 and 6012 are very close. 6012 is for DC only, 6013 is AC and DC.

[@KeyserSoseRulz]

Great advice. I was using 6013 - 1/8" to weld a relatively think base plate. I am getting my butt kicked... My welds are depressing, ugly. All lumpy and clumpy. I was welding with 85-90A. Now I will try 110A. Cross fingers b/c I am about to give up!

[@stevefriedlander7053]

When would you use 6013? I am doing metal art without any heavy structure. I ask only because someone gave me a lot of 6013 and I might as well use it.

[@1873Winchester]

I don't like 6013 either, not welded alot with it though. Didn't know they used it for pipe welding in the UK, in scandinavia it's 7018 all the way, root and all.

[@kf8575]

1873Winchester Yes used a lot here in uk for general process pipe, either following a Tig root when specified, also Lincoln Fleet plus 6010+ or a Murex Celtian 6010 root (we do where i work anyway). Pointless using low hydro rods when a weld deposited with a rutile 6013 ie vodex or fincord m will not only match but exceed the strength of the steel pipe it is welding isnt it. Also, there isnt the stop/start porosity hurdle to overcome, and no stringent storage/baking of rods. High pressure pipe and vessels, yes we usually weld with low hydro rods, ie filarc 56's (7016) or esab 48.00 (7018).

[@duncanmacfarlane238]

Great video.best 6013 lap welds.I also prefer LH, 7018. Got a question if you like 7018 's and weld at home as a hobby do you need a hotbox if your getting serious about welding and quality.

[@kf8575]

Duncan Mac Farlane Yes if your welding all day. Plus either a drying oven or discard all rods left at the end of the day, and only ever using rods sealed in vacuum packs. Defeats the object of using low hydrogen rods otherwise

[@enriqueaguilar1211]

Alright Jody running some 6013!! That slag is drag for sure! Great tip on push angle, I find u really gotta use that Arc to blow that slag back. 6013 is a tricky rod to hold a tight Arc on, even if u have really hot, if u touch the base metal like on 7018 ur gonna stick, at least I do anyways lol.

[@IsaacOLEG]

Enrique Aguilar it does not stick, clearly, even it has arc force at 10%, but you need a puddle., the les sticking rod probably..

[@kf8575]

Enrique Aguilar You can drag it similar to an iron powder..... just depends on specific rod, power and polarity. Ie a "vodex" 6013 wont drag very well and welds better with a definite gap, but a "fincord m" 6013, you can, with a 4mm rod, 145-150amps DCEN (and this welds well enough to pass MPI, Dye pen, and ultrasonic testing)

[@IsaacOLEG]

Ken F that is interesting. I use omnia46 not really dragging but for a long time I used a really short arc (because learning first with a buzz box I think) Then I was said 6013 need a real arc about one diameter, probably because so much coating flows. So you may use a strong angle to drag, is it (more than 30,?) or lay be strong amps help to navigate on the edge of the puddle?

[@_BLANK_BLANK]

One thing that I do like about 6013 is how smooth the beads can come out. I think maybe doing a root pass with something else, then capping it with 6013 could work if cosmetics are an issue, and also penetration.

[@luciusirving5926]

It's funny that ESAB's version welds and cleans like 7018. Those sticky Lincolns makes me go Hulk Smash on slag. More hacking and less simple slag and chip strokes. Lincoln should fix their 6013 formula for easier cleaning.

[@mountainmiked8160]

6013 was not my favorite for years. I burn a bunch of it now in my fabrication shop. There is a difference between rod manufacturers and some run better than others, especially downhill. My favorite is Hobart. They have a lighter flux covering and have a slightly more aggressive arc on A/C and will run downhill for the entire length of the rod without having to stop because the light slag will not drip down and overtake the puddle. My second choice is Raynor's, third is Washington alloys. If you really want to run a nice concave downhill weld bead on fillets then try 1/8" MG 80T-AC rods. Run them downhill on AC at 140 amps. Bead appearance is nice! I use straight polarity on anything thinner than .080" because the direction of current flow from the rod to the piece does prevent burn through on thin mower decks and such, because of reduced molten metal deposit velocity, predominately from the coating burning off at the same rate as the rod and not forming a cup to capture and focus gas pressure behind the molten metal forming from the rod as with DC+, which will accentuate burn through with the electrons pulling metal from the base piece when running positive. Experimentation is half the fun. Great video Jody.

[@johnburke7253]

NIce, another good video, like your videos length, intros are good, get to the point and do the demonstration, thanks for forgoing talking down to your viewers.

[@denniz122]

Nice Video as always! As far as i know there are more then one type of 6013. I know at least 3 different types with different flux compositions for different applications. One of them has a thick flux coating of rutile and u can get slagholes pretty easy, its really only good for flat welds in my opinion because the puddle is very fluid, its not for downhill welds thought. The next type has a rutile cellulose flux composition, which is rated for downhill welds (6010/11 uses cellulose in the flux), but the puddle is very fluid too. The last type i know has a rutile basic flux composition (7018 for example has a basic flux coating) and its better for uphill welds. But thats only what i think i know so pls correct me if im wrong! Keep it up!

[@weldingtipsandtricks]

you are right. there are many different brands and or types of 6013 and there are even maintenance rods that are pretty much a 6013 but not called that...but tweaked in flux or chemical composition to make them weld better out of position or to be more crack resistant for maintenance welding where the exact composition of steel is not always known. I was using lincoln fleetweld 37 for this video. I think I forgot to state that. its the common rods you get in big box stores.

[@loghan3796]

as i’m being taught we using 6013 and i’m told we’re supposed to do circle or half moon motions when we weld but i’ve never seen that on stick and i don’t do it

[@rabbithatethefox]

Hi,Im wondering if you could give me advice on welding 2.5mm gal rhs 35mmx35mm and 3mm angle iron.I'm making ramps for small trailer.The angle iron goes in between the rectangle frame 2000 by 200mm frame.I am using 2.5mm electrodes 6013 and I am trying to weld fillet welds.Some work t others don't.Should I be holding a tight arc as in the electrode nearly touching ?amps are set at around 75-80

[@CMmobilewelding]

Will you do a video of 6013 vertical downhill on thin sheet metal? Like 14 guage?

[@spkrman15]

Great Video jody. I have a question. the spatter / BB's we see you weld over would that affect the weld quality? Just curious what the impact of those are on a weld. thanks. Keep them coming

[@jesusmartingarciamartinez3364]

Great vídeo Man thanks por the tips I work Mig/tig and I know little about arcwelding I just started a few months ago great vid

[@klum8872]

As a student in highschool idk much about welding... but my teacher makes us do circular welds when stick welding... what's the difference?

[@A2ZGAMEGUIDESX]

6013s our coded rod for most work, along with 7018 obviously. Still have 6010 it's just 4 times the price (30 quid for a 5lb box of 6013, 115 for 6010). can get really thin rods (2mm is the smallest I've used) and you can weld right down to near enough exhaust silencers