722.6 Tranmsission Teardown inspection Part 2

In this video, i go through the different drums, pump and valvebody

[@trosey84]

Great step by step video Gary, Thank you! My 2006 Dodge Charger R/T with the Nag1 W5A580 (722.6) developed a long shift between 2nd and 3rd gear. We had previously tested shift solenoids with 20psi and 12v and they all tested good. Went ahead and swapped them around just to verify and still had issues from 2nd to 3rd. Our next step was maybe the conductor plate or valvebody, (Just so happen that my father has a 2006 Dodge Charger Daytona R/T) so we swapped both of these out, same thing, long 2nd to 3rd. After following your video we had found the absolute last piece of the transmission teardown to be a small grenade! The F2 Sprag bearing was in pieces and would only rotate under heavy force! Rebuilding here in the next week or so, I'll keep you posted on when this Nag1 is hooked back up to the 475HP Hemi!! Kudos!!

[@GaryFerraro]

Solenoids rarely good bad, I would have thought it would be one of the solenoids, these are the bridges between the shifts, good job on finding the problem. Thanks for watching stay safe

[@paulwharton1850]

Excellent video - you're a truly knowledgable guy. Thank you, all the way from London !

[@GaryFerraro]

Thank you, Greetings from New York

[@cmmarketingltd7389]

Great vid . I had to put a reconditioned 7g box into my 07 cls63 ... It's done 50,000 .... Do you recommend I now rebuild it for piece of mind and to promote longevity ? Thanks

[@jaredlazaron8414]

What's going to cause (in your opinion) a 722.6 transmission with 37k miles on it to slip in pretty much every gear. Fluid is fresh (ATF134) and full when transmission temperature is 90c.

[@jimbobmedog]

Hi Gary could you now do a video of putting it back together;) great video.

[@GaryFerraro]

Im sorry, not at the moment, but i will keep that in mind when the next one comes in. Thanks for watching. Gary

[@sv_endless6340]

@@GaryFerraro That would be a great video. putting a 722.6 back together from scratch

[@GaryFerraro]

@@sv_endless6340 I can keep that in mind, i may have a NAG1 coming in. same trans

[@sv_endless6340]

@@GaryFerraro Thanks. I managed to assemble the trans but I would only know if I run it. Struggling n bit getting the clutch plates to line up but I was gentle and patient and it all seem to fit. Aventually haha.

[@GaryFerraro]

@@sv_endless6340 Yes, that came be a pain sometimes, i try to line everything up before installing the drums, and the front section goes in as one assembly from the K2 clutch to the bellhousing.

[@jamesdean2002]

Hi Gary,you mentioned to keep away from aftermarket kits,It was hard to hear exactly what you said did you say stick with the OE kits,and Stuttgart kits.And i googled them and couldnt find anything.So i probably got it wrong.

[@GaryFerraro]

No, you are correct, I purchase my parts from transtar. www.transtar1.com they should carry the overhaul. I would go with stuttgart or trans tech overhaul kit. Gary

[@jamesdean2002]

Thats where i was at transtar,the kit was there.Now i know for sure.You know what youre talking about.I,ll definately take your advice.Thanks for the prompt answer.

[@GaryFerraro]

Your welcome, also, if doing an overhaul, make sure you change the 2 sprags, and the conductor plate(part attached to valvebody) these parts have a very high failure rate. Gary

[@jensharmening4241]

Still useful in 2021. Thanks!

[@omarmonzo5426]

never mind gary i found it. early models they have to have it, but this is late model it takes only the snap ring and there is a little free play that ok. thanks

[@GarryChambers]

Hi Gary great videos. Can I ask what year did they go from 16 to 20 element sprag clutch's?

[@GaryFerraro]

+Garry Chambers Hello, The trans came out around 1996, so i would say around 2001 both sprags were updated to 20 elements. Thanks for watching. Gary

[@greghinners]

Thanks for all the videos Gary. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

[@GaryFerraro]

Thanks for watching Greg, Happy Holidays to you too.

[@dingdingalingthecat4924]

My 2005 300c HEMI has this trans.; why is it so complicated. What are it's attributs ? Very good vid, thank you!

[@GaryFerraro]

There not bad to work on, problems are conductor plate goes bad, sprags , the pass through connector likes to leak, those are common issues

[@2vgod460]

Hey I was wondering in the amg nag one and the Chrysler nag what clutches and stuff would u need off the amg to use in a Chrysler nag one to make it handle the bigger horsepower like people are making to handle 1000hp

[@GaryFerraro]

The AMG nag one uses different pressure solenoids, they are higher output, Identifed by a blue cap on top. also, If possible you could try the double sided frictons instead of signle sided, make sure you have the updated sprags too. Im not sure up to what horese power this trans can handle

[@2vgod460]

Gary Ferraro that last post was a kit they sell for the buyer to get installed into there own transmission they build them as well and they do a lot more work to them I guess but this kit they say will make the tranny handle a good amount of power.

[@tisoy909]

This is why I always refer to the Transmission technician as a distinctly separate and higher level of of specialists. They are the Neurosurgeons in the automotive repair industry.

[@GaryFerraro]

Thank you and thanks for watching

[@aeroflopper]

its only nuts and bolts , not rocket science.

[@joelsolis5995]

Do you know why my nag1 would make a whining noise. It was 2 qts low on fluid but still making same noise. Should I change the pump or also change out plates too?

[@GaryFerraro]

sounds to me like the filter is clogging up

[@jarnokarjalainen2668]

Gary, s212 e class mercedes (2010)with 722.6 gearbox and 200cdi engine. When you go from park to drive, you occasionally ger very harsh shift procedure, car "jumps" forward. What would cause that?

[@Dieselpwr]

I got my 722.6 rebuilt finally i air tested it everything seems great but im concerned because i never rebuilt one before is it normal to feel a little drag while spinning the input shaft by hand ?

[@GUITARDALI]

Hi Gary - Great video - I have a 722.6 that has no codes but quits shifting when its hot even with a key cycle. Always has application in drive and reverse but doesnt leave first gear when all the way hot. The dealer suspects the valve body. Ever experienced this? Its a 99 E300TD with 90k TIA for any info

[@GaryFerraro]

James, what type of scanner are you using to see if any codes are present?

[@GUITARDALI]

I brought it to Huntington MB twice . I think it is a star scanner.

[@GaryFerraro]

With it not shifting, it is an eletrical problem, the conductor plate(valvebody) is a common failure. You also have a recognition switch that will keep the trans from shifting if it doesnt know what gear its in. I have a video on that problem,( had a delay in drive and no shift, and did not set any codes) Cant believe its not setting a code. Gary

[@GUITARDALI]

I will look for the recognition switch video. Could the conductor plate or recognition switch be temperature sensitive though? It operates perfectly until its heat soaked. What other scanners are ok to read and clear Mercedes trans? The Star is out of my league!

[@GaryFerraro]

you would need a good scanner like a snap-on. I would say they can be temperature sensitive. How long do you have to drive it before it stops shifting?

[@sohanwu6353]

What's the name of the overhaul kit you use for the 722.6 trans? Thanks I love the video.....

[@GaryFerraro]

Sohan Wu I use stutgart overhaul kit, its straight out of germany, only OE parts i use on 722.6

[@samanjelal4566]

Gary Ferraro First Thanks for the video its great job you can do ,what was the mileage on the car ?

[@GaryFerraro]

Saman Jelal The mileage was 123,000. The early 722.6 does not have the updated sprags. When they updated them, they went from 16 elements to 20 elements. Thanks For watching. Gary

[@budlanctot3060]

Kind of a general question: What do the letters mean, as in k1, k2, b1, b2, f1, f2, etc...?

[@GaryFerraro]

I guess the K= Clutch B= Brake F is a one way clutch or sprag, not sure why they use that letter

[@michaelpuckett2084]

Gary ferraro i changed my front pump and torque converter after i put it back in it is making a squealing rubbing sound have any idea what i did wrong first time ive ever tore into a autotrans

[@GaryFerraro]

The noise is always there in all ranges? The converter is probably hiting something, the noise changes as you rev the engine?

[@boyb72]

Hi Gary, I have a 2006 mercedes cls55 amg. I installed a high stall converter and developed and pretty bad leak in front of the trans. Not sure if it got damaged while i was trying to align it or not. Have to drop the trans again. I could just replace the front seal, but worried that it could be the pump that is damaged. I dont want to drop the trans again and replace just the seal and find out that its the pump afterwards. Is there a way to check the pump while i pull out the front seal? I know the best thing is to do is to replace the whole oil pump section, but seems a bit difficult. Also, is there a careful way of installing and aligning the torque converter? Possibly it might of hit the seal while it was going in, but not sure. Please help!

[@GaryFerraro]

either there is a problem with the seal or the bushing, pull the trans out, see how easy the converter will come back out. inspect the seal if looks ok, knock it out and see if the bushing moves, if it does the pump body and gears will have to be replaced

[@boyb72]

@@GaryFerraro Hi, would the 3000 high stall converter cause this since alot of heat or some sort? Do i just slowly align the converter and rotate, push to be aligned properly? Not sure what of caused this because before no leaks with old converter. Do you think it might of happened when installing the converter? I was rotating it and pushing it at the same time.

[@GaryFerraro]

@@boyb72 Not cause it's a high stall(that is internal workings) I would say the front seal was damaged while installing the converter into the trans or possible when bolted transmission to engine converter wasn't sitting correctly. and on start up spun the bushing. Does the car move and just leaks?

[@boyb72]

@@GaryFerraro Just leaking only.

[@boyb72]

Car moves and no weird noise. Just leaking oil. What is the proper way of installing these torque converters? What is the correct depth inside the bell housing? Im mean i had it on there and rotate it from side to side. Also was kind of pushing it to be seated as well. If i had it on there and it was not fully seated, then i dont think the trans would be working correctly, dont you agree?

[@issaalazzabi6087]

hi gary can you tell me what the common problems in this transmission

[@GaryFerraro]

+issa alazzabi Certainly, with the 722.6, the conductor plate which contains the speed sensors goes bad alot, the pass through connector likes to leak, the f1 and f2 sprags go bad, and the trans oil works its way up the wiring harness into the tcm. Gary

[@arrowmid]

Hello Gary, any advice on fixing a scored bellhousing? Machining, install one of those plates, replacement? My pump won't pressurize the transmission because of a scored bellhousing and causes inconsistent shift flares, harsh shift shocks, and grinding noises.

[@GaryFerraro]

Where are you located?

[@arrowmid]

San Francisco.

[@GaryFerraro]

If you have a casting number off of the bell housing, i could hook you up with my rep and he could see if he has a good used one, i honestly dont like the plate they make, i had an issue with the pump gear not turning that great so i really dont use the plate

[@arrowmid]

Thanks! It's R 203 271 07 01. I took a bunch of pictures. What do you think? imgur.com/a/2vcbF

[@arrowmid]

Hello Gary any thoughts on the condition of my pump? Did you see the pics?

[@dzodaj]

Hello, can I ask a question... I have something like bad baring sound in transmission that is following motor RPM, it is not too loud, especially when it is warm and when in N or P it almost goes away...do you know what element could it be and is it risky to continue without service, I just bought this car and in few days I will check and do a fluid change, I think the level might be a bit low, should I flush it? Thank you

[@GaryFerraro]

Well, being the fact that you hear this noise in drive and reverse but goes away in park and neutral sounds to me like a converter noise, you may want to drop the pan and see whats in the pan. How does the car drive cold and how does the car drive hot? any difference?

[@dzodaj]

Thank you for the quick response. I will check that tomorrow. When it is hot car drives fine and shifts smoothly. When cold I could say I can feel shifting in first 3 gears and I feel some push forward, especially from 2 to 3 but to me it seams like the gear ratio is a bit far, it drops more than 10K RPM and still pushes forward. In those occasions if I release tension on gas pedal a bit in the moment when it shifts and then I pres a bit firmer right after I can make that noise more quiet.

[@dzodaj]

Additional info Vehicle is 2005 Mercedes E220 CDI wagon Today I pooled out a bit of a fluid from the fluid inlet, used a tiny hose, and it is not too bad, not cloudy and has pink brownish color. It might be a bit low on fluid thou. I changed transmission mount a week ago because it had some cracks but nothing changed. I did not find any fluid leaks, but i noticed that I should change driveshaft bearing. I went to a MB garage last month and they said it is nothing serious, actually guy had a heard time detecting a sound, but the car was warm then, It is like a waving sound, like when turning a rope in the air. It seams that I can hear that noise more from the cabin than if I was out of the car. Engine is very good, belt drive also. And yes, transmission noise goes high in frequency and I could say disappears when engine goes above 15K RPM, also when it is in 4 and 5 gear, over 60km/h.

[@GaryFerraro]

It maybe service the trans and get a new filter and fluid in there. So you hear the noise standing still with the car running and while driving?

[@dzodaj]

Sorry I went to sleep, since I am in Europe. Yes, the noise is there all the time only not in a same intensity...and since it is not the engine or a belt drive, I checked that, I suppose it is transmission, actually I am pretty sure about that...the noise is easier to identify from the side of the car or in the cabin than while standing in front of it...my first suspect is torque converter or something in that area that is connected to a crank shaft, hoping that it is just a low fluid level. I already ordered fluid, filter and other needed seals to do that service in Monday...did you mean i should flush the system or just change around 4 liters of fluid?

[@GUITARDALI]

Similar to a power steering pump when the reservoir is low. Not sure about reverse. Definitely drive and neutral. Will drive it again.

[@GaryFerraro]

Almost sounds like a filter noise, was the filter changed?

[@GUITARDALI]

I got 8 bottles and a filter kit to do it. Should I go for a conductor plate too or just deal with the situation at hand?

[@GaryFerraro]

+James Daly wasn't the conductor plate changed already?

[@GUITARDALI]

Nothing changed.

[@GaryFerraro]

when you had the pan down, how did it look?

[@toldibldr]

Gary.Grate video.Where are you located ??

[@GaryFerraro]

Im in New York on Long Island

[@toldibldr]

Gary .How do I send my 722.6 Transmission to New York for an overhaul ? I.m In California

[@GaryFerraro]

Have you had it diagnosed that it is a transmission problem? I would like to know what codes (if any) are present

[@Dieselpwr]

Do i need to replace my sprag bearings on late model if they appear to be in good condition?

[@GaryFerraro]

If your talking about the sprags themselves yes I would replace them.

[@Dieselpwr]

I will take the advice

[@GaryFerraro]

@@Dieselpwr ok, i would use brake kleen to clean the parts, do you have air to blow them dry?

[@GaryFerraro]

You can use a premium synthetic fluid, like cam 2 or mobil 1

[@anupchiramal]

My transmission722.6 has 0733 fault code n stuck in 3rd gear. If I restart the car it drives fine. Changed valve body,conductor plate,clutch plates and solenoid. Still same problem pls help

[@GaryFerraro]

Anup Chiramal Do you feel it slipping?

[@anupchiramal]

Wat actually happens is wen put to drive and I accelerate Ther is no issue as it drives upto 100km/hr to 150km/hr but if I apply brake n slow down the initial is very bad n starts to drag. The engine just revs but vehicle wudnt move forward but slowly catches up speed.

[@GaryFerraro]

@@anupchiramal Did you by chance change the F1 and F2 Sprags?

[@anupchiramal]

I don’t think I have changed tht

[@GaryFerraro]

@@anupchiramal What year is the car?

[@chenangokid]

how the heck do you remember how everything goes back together lol

[@GaryFerraro]

Doing this a long time, thanks for watching, please subscribe, any questions just let me know

[@JohnSmith-fw7ox]

Where are you located?

[@GaryFerraro]

Im on long island, new york. Are you in the new york area?

[@JohnSmith-fw7ox]

I wish I was. If you don't mind me asking, how much does a job like this cost?

[@GaryFerraro]

Not sure if you told me, what kind of car do you have? what is the problem with the trans?

[@JohnSmith-fw7ox]

It is a 2004 Mercedes CLK 320. It has a similar lag/delay at the end/beginning of the 1-2 and 2-3. All the rest are smooth.

[@JohnSmith-fw7ox]

I can also feel it in the opposite direction coming to a stop.

[@عادلابوالمجد-ي7ن]

ماشاء الله لا قوة إلا بالله ربنا يعطيك العافية من فضلك ممكن كتالوج والترجمة للعربية وشكراً لك

[@GaryFerraro]

Thanks for watching

[@shihab.kolikkaramohammed9493]

👍👍

[@GaryFerraro]

Thank you

[@TheDomin8rr]

I have a MY 05 MB E320 CDI w/ 5-speed 722.6 NAG1 RWD. I keep my transmission in 'C' (comfort) mode at all times which I understand to mean the car starts off in 2nd gear when put into Drive or Reverse. My issue occurs just after start-up when engine & transmission are still 70C, ALL shifts & acceleration become silky smooth. I currently have 218K miles on odometer. A transmission flush was done at 212K miles which seemed to resolve this harsh shifting issue until about 2K miles ago when it began to reoccur. I recently watched this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKG0naGfl9qNmtE & have been thinking I might benefit from the kit it promotes. After watching your teardown video, I thought I might see if you have any thoughts or opinions. Thank-you for taking the time & excellent videos.

[@GaryFerraro]

+Kevin Karges Question, Do you have any transmission trouble codes? (did you have the car scanned) Gary

[@TheDomin8rr]

I have an SDS w/ DAS/Xentry & run frequent 'Quick Tests' of all control modules. No DTCs or events have ever come up for TCM. It always passes with a check. I have read in the forums that a coolant flush & new thermostat might bring transmission temperature up quicker. Once my car is warmed up, shifting is always very smooth so I believe that is what I will try before messing with the valve body. The guy who posted that other video I linked to commented that after 63K miles he is unsure if that kit made any difference. He also swapped the 2-3 solenoid with the 4-5 when he installed it He did say his transmission fluid looked much better than previous flush & reported smooth operation over those 63K miles.

[@GaryFerraro]

+Kevin Karges On some of these m/b, the way the computer works is, it will delay the shifts when cold so the car heats up faster, but it shouldnt flare on the shift, After you do the coolant, if the problem is still there, as a test you may want to drop the valvebody and swap around the shift solenoids to see if the problem changes or remains the same(may have a lazy shift solenoid when the car is cold) I myself havent had many problems with solenoids on the 722.6. Gary

[@nearfaded]

w is not winter mode w in german, stands for economy thus w211, e class, economy s stands for standard, 1-2-3 shift clk320, has c/s mode, casual and sport, non-german made car, chrysler crap fall out may be down to the transmission all made on north american continent's assembly lines owning both of'em, 14 years later, german e class rides the same, clk rides like a tractor.

[@GaryFerraro]

Thank you

[@nearfaded]

oh no thank you, i had a great time watching you infinitely pull that case of metal apart. very detailed work, it must take a lot of patience and memorization to put it all back together, with no mistakes. good job.

[@GaryFerraro]

Thanks again, we do a good amount of the 722.6, just did one last weel that was in a jeep, checked out mercedes yesterday with a TCC issue, not a bad unit to work on. Thanks for watching

[@Elltec]

I won't believe that you know what you're doin.....

[@GaryFerraro]

Elltec Why is that?

[@compal55]

Elltec yeah, why is that?

[@rohanboswell5408]

What was the millage on on that transmission

[@GaryFerraro]

I think that was about 80K

[@rohanboswell5408]

@@GaryFerraro wow i thought mercedes trannys was good dor over 200k..

[@GaryFerraro]

@@rohanboswell5408 Honestly don't see that much, overall they are not that bad, they have common problems, not much more goes wrong with these other than the common issues

[@rohanboswell5408]

@@GaryFerraro yes the. Issues i always see is the. Conductor plate ..thanks. And good job