A 10 amp fuse ruined my day!

Watch as I do repair battles in the last of a 3 part series on the 1993 Mercedes 190!
Instagram : master_of_nonemb
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[@cesarcesarpires]

23:00 that's from factory 25:00 yeah that's the original radiator, all have a number, mine says 31 I guess on grey 28:23 yes you can use, its an aftermark part Usually the ABS gives no problems when you work on brake circuit 42:00 if you press the air meter without gas the engine it Will die because the mixture Will get too much poor But the system should do it automatically The car has an extra injector for cold conditions (the cold start valve) Once the speedometer shows the wrong temperature, the problem can be from that and not the injection system itself (because it thinks the engine is hot) Even that put your ralentin a little Higher, I use mine between 900 to 1100 rpm and its good at all conditions 56:52 yes ahhaha That car surelly had an alarm and more stuff, but those ones are not stock Hahahahah no way the problem was that fuse, on mine is easyer to acess, I have fuel and AC relays on the other side The computer was trying to stabilize, if it continues high the ralentin just a little bittle

[@masterofnoneMB]

@@cesarcesarpires As always I appreciate your support and feedback! It’s greatly appreciated! According to the internet, the OVP relay powers the idle air control valve and the cold start up valve. When I changed the blown fuse on relay, the car ran like it should on cold start up. Why do you think the fuse wasn’t the possible fix?? Also do you know a parts supplier that stocks parts such as the fog light lenses and windshield washer nozzles? I have spent a long time trying to find. They seem unobtainable. Are parts on the 300 interchangeable? They look similar. Thanks again! Have a great day!

[@masterofnoneMB]

@@cesarcesarpires after removing the alarm system, with the car locked, the hazard lights will flash on their own intermittently and shut off after 1-2 minutes. Any thoughts?

[@cesarcesarpires]

@@masterofnoneMB I didnt Said the fuse wasnt the problem, I was trying to say that was a super Simple thing and we were thinking there was the injection system with problems, that why I Said "how is possible" hahha I Will try to find online for you and on the site you said, here on Portugal I can find many things easily

[@cesarcesarpires]

@@masterofnoneMB if Thats happening it should means you did not removed the complete system, and the remaining part is on Now If you check again and theres nothing more to remove, maybe they have changed some cables, try to found the components that doesnt look on stock condition and put everything like factory new

[@masterofnoneMB]

@@cesarcesarpires Thank you!

[@cesarcesarpires]

Give me your email or something KZbin is deleting my comments and I don't know why

[@masterofnoneMB]

@@cesarcesarpires Don’t go out of your way for parts although I do appreciate the effort. I’m gearing up to have a significant surgery so I will be down & out for a bit. After taking the car on a hour ride, the gremlins keep rearing their ugly heads lol. The car had a very intermittent stall. Doesn’t matter hot or cold. Only happens when letting off the throttle or deceleration. Could this be the deceleration switch? Also the transmission is leaking from what appears to be the wiring harness connector. After doing some research, it appears to be a common problem. I can’t find any info online regarding that particular year and model. Some information states you have to drop the pan others don’t. The area (passenger side) seems really tight to the body so not sure how to do. Thanks.