A Beginner's Guide to Starting an Apple Espalier (Anyone Can Do It!)

[@JonSteitzer]

This is the single most helpful source of info i've found yet when researching this. Thank you

[@TheFruitGrove]

Thank you so much! That was my goal.

[@odimarbatista3976]

I started an enterprise and a liberty both bare root on dwarf stock this spring espaliered against a stone wall and pruned them to 2’. I was full of self doubt about my pruning job, thinking I should have let them grow a taller central lead instead of having aggressively prune off all this beatiful new growth. After watching your video I have renewed hope that I’m actually going to pull this off. Thank you!

[@TheFruitGrove]

You did the right thing! How'd it going so far?

[@jerrywhidby.]

This video gets stuck at 3:38 and resumes at 4:09 Then again at 10:38 resuming at 11:30

[@TheFruitGrove]

Thanks for the feedback - I haven't noticed this problem, but I'll check it out.

[@jareds705]

Happened to me too.

[@bikr6573]

If you perform winter/summer pruning regularly -- as you should per the nature of espalier training, then standard vs spur fruiting habit shouldn't matter, right? I think you planted the tree(s) too close to your fence which inhibits air circulation and reduces light access. Routine watering will cause moisture damage to your *wooden* fence as well. In spring, trees spend most of their energy on vegetative growth and fruiting, not rooting... so, planting a fruiting tree in spring (although commonly done) is probably not an optimal practice IMHO. Cheers~

[@TheFruitGrove]

It's not as close as it may look to the fence...there's about 5 - 6 inches between the branches and the fence boards (which is pretty standard for this kind of espalier). I agree, fall is best for planting in my opinion, but sometimes that's not an option. I suppose it doesn't have to be spur bearing, but you will probably get more fruit with espalier if it is (rather than just at the tips of branches).

[@quewiggins2514]

Man this was some great info, but it cuts off twice. One time, it was talking about where to find buds and possibly when to cut. Can you tell us what you were saying

[@TheFruitGrove]

Yes, I don’t know what happened to this video! It was definitely working when I uploaded it. I may have to re-upload the video to fix the problem. The short answer is to cut above a bud an inch or two above the wire. The top few buds below the cut will wake up and send out shoots, and those will become your lateral shoots and new central leader.

[@olenabrodetska1533]

Thank you very much from Ukraine. Just what i need.

[@TheFruitGrove]

Thank you! Glad it helped!

[@tarawilliams6375]

Damn! Subscribed in the single digit!

[@geologotejano]

Nice simple clear explanation. Thx

[@TheFruitGrove]

Glad it was helpful!

[@abigaildawn2996]

Great video of love to see it next year

[@TheFruitGrove]

Glad you enjoyed it - I'm looking forward to that too!

[@syrah412]

Thanks for the tips! Good work!

[@TheFruitGrove]

Thanks! Glad it was helpful!

[@kairu.kun.z]

Not sure if it’s me or not but your video cuts off 10:36 and it doesn’t start back up for a minute or so. Not sure if you knew that or if it’s just me

[@TheFruitGrove]

Thanks for the feedback...I haven't had this problem, but I'll check it out

[@shadowlibrarian400]

What about columnar apples?

[@TheFruitGrove]

I haven't tried columnar apples yet, but I'd like to!

[@jenc8953]

I just planted a 3 in 1 apple tree here in zone 10b. The tree was already espaliered for me by the nursery which was nice. I am growing the branches in the traditional method but I am using an 8ft wide trellis instead of the wires. The branches have already grown long what do I do with the ends of the branches once they reach the end of the trellis? Do I just cut them to keep them within the 8ft ling trellis?

[@TheFruitGrove]

I would trim them once they reach the right length

[@carolinemiller2211]

Thank you for making this video. I appreciate how you explained the process step by step. I am inspired and believe I can do this. Thank you again. PS. I live in zone 8a on the east coast. What gardening zone do you live in?

[@TheFruitGrove]

I live in 8b, in East Texas (not far from the Louisiana border). You absolutely can do this! That's what's surprised me so far...once I figured out the process, it hasn't been as difficult as I thought it would be. I'll keep updating on the progress.

[@sandrabargerhuff6421]

Can it be against a brick wall, and if so what do I use to anchor it to the wall?

[@TheFruitGrove]

Yes! I've never tried it, but you can get masonry anchors (amzn.to/45DJ5JW) that are meant for brick or stone. As long as you have a masonry bit to drill a hole into the brick.

[@jacquivowles7578]

That is doing so well! what rootstock is this apple on?

[@TheFruitGrove]

I honestly don't know...I wish I could remember!

[@allanpennington]

My apples and pear espalier are in their first spring/summer after planting them in late winter. I have been training two horizontal first tiers as they grow and leaving a central leader. The first tier is growing well. Its now mid summer. I have some branch growth coming off the two trained laterals and some off the central leader. Should I be summer pruning in the first year on my first tier laterals? Is mid summer too late for that? I have one pear which has produced a few laterals off the central leader at a tier two height. Should I train those now or is it best to cut the central leader back in winter to start the next tier from fresh? Thanks

[@TheFruitGrove]

It's actually a good idea to prune any growth off of the bottom tier laterals the first year, even in summer. I had a branch start growing off of the bottom tier that I trimmed off in the middle of the summer, and that triggered the laterals to continue growing horizontally. I would also pull off any fruit this first year so the tree can focus its energy on growing the branches and setting up the shape. If the bottom tier has grown about 2/3 of the way horizontally along the trellis, then it's ok to let the central leader grow and start working on the second tier. This happened to me this year...I have a really long growing season so the bottom tier grew past the halfway mark quicker than I expected. So (as you saw in the video) I let the second tier get started. I plan to prune the central leader above the second tier this winter in the next few weeks so that come spring the bottom two tiers can grow further before starting on the top tier. Once the second tier grows about 2/3 of the way along the horizontal wire, then I'll let the central leader grow toward the top tier. Hope that helps!

[@aussiebushgirl1829]

Would espalier work for apple and pear trees we planted in-ground in 2022. They’re dwarf varieties but are not doing wonderfully where they are currently planted. The plan was to lift all four trees in autumn/winter this year and move them nearby to the back fence. Now I’m wondering if there’s still time to train these into espaliers? Do you have any tips or advice, or would it be better to start the process from scratch with young bare root trees? 🙏

[@TheFruitGrove]

It might work...there's a possibility that severe pruning might be a little traumatic for more established trees, but if they're struggling where they are I say go for it. If it doesn't work, you can always try again with younger trees. I haven't tried a pear espalier yet, but I'm currently scoping out other spots along my fence to try it out.

[@danielnomnom2646]

If I was trying to replant existing trees and turn them into an espalier I would change a couple of things. Personally, I would buy new trees. Younger trees just take better to the process. First I would make them and "informal" espalier instead of trying to force them into a shape like the horizontal cordon. To do an informal espalier, do the trellis like she showed in her video except do double the amount of horizontal wires. When you replant the trees cut off any branches that were not growing side to side. Then tie the rest of the branches off to the wires. You wouldn't need to force the branches horizontally, you would just fan them out on the wires close to whatever angle they were growing at. Personally I would just buy new 1 year whip trees. They take they hard pruning better. Pear trees are great as espaliers. Apples, as long as they aren't "tip bearing" varieties. My cherries don't like formal shapes and do better as informal fans. My plums work either way. Peaches have to be informal due to their special pruning requirements.

[@Breyerluvr4eva]

​@danielnomnom2646 do you have any info on special pruning peaches? We have two peach trees we inherited when we moved in

[@BRIANLIMBARO]

Hi i like ❤

[@jamesg2405]

How much space between each tree along the fence?

[@TheFruitGrove]

The trees are 8 feet apart.

[@lizzadeng1797]

Hello-I just bought (yesterday)an espalier Fuji Apple tree from lowes, will I need to buy a pair for pollination? It already has a few apples growing already. Thanks!

[@TheFruitGrove]

I believe Fuji apples are partially self pollinating, so you may get some fruit. But if you get a second apple variety it will probably fruit better - quantity and quality. Just make sure the other variety blooms at the same time as the Fuji. I've heard that Gala, Golden Delicious, or Granny Smith all cross pollinate with Fuji, and I'm sure there are many more.

[@hermanparisius2828]

Fuji are tip bearing.not greatly suited for espalier

[@anacimafranca3809]

It cuts off

[@TheFruitGrove]

Yeah, I don't know what's going on. It was definitely working when I first uploaded it...I may have to re-upload

[@SAGAWISIW30]

We know espallier what di you thinks of us we ate Americas too😂😂😂 begunner and lecturing biginers😂 just try orin at UC santsanta fe master class