A game-changing NEW way to sharpen! (Scary SHARPER!)

- Sharpening kit: lddy.no/1ge9j
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-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
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★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
-Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or
-Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz
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-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x
-Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS
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★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★
-Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8
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-Router: amzn.to/3grD22S
-Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y
-Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm
-Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH
-Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr
-Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ
-Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY
-Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc
-Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★
-Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh
-Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI
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[@StumpyNubs]

- Sharpening kit: lddy.no/1ge9j ★TAYLOR TOOLWORKS IS A SMALL FAMILY BUSINESS WORTH SUPPORTING★ *They are also supporters of this channel who help keep our videos free. Please support them AND us by saving and using this link whenever you buy tools: lddy.no/s80f *LIKE THE BACKGROUND?* My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works. They are as wonderful to use as they are to look at: bridgecitytools.com/ ★THIS VIDEO WAS ALSO MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Bow featherboards- Uniquely designed to reduce table saw kickback like no other featherboard I have ever used! amzn.to/430ldhv *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★ -Digital Caliper: amzn.to/384H1Or -Marking Gauge: lddy.no/10muz -Marking knife: lddy.no/10mv0 -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/3y5HDOc -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Gent Saw: lddy.no/ss2x -Coping saw: amzn.to/2W7ZiUS -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13 ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE POWER TOOLS★ -Miter Saw: amzn.to/3gqIlQ8 -Jointer: amzn.to/3yc3gfZ -Planer: amzn.to/3mn6BGF -Router: amzn.to/3grD22S -Sander: amzn.to/3DdvD0Y -Cordless drill: amzn.to/3D9ZiIm -Brad nailer: amzn.to/3gsRkjH -Mini Compressor: amzn.to/3mvrmQr -Bladerunner: amzn.to/2Wl0TtJ -Jig Saw: amzn.to/3zetTBY -Scroll Saw: amzn.to/3gq9qDc -Multi-Tool: amzn.to/3muZuMi ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE OTHER TOOLS★ -Drill Bits: amzn.to/3B8Ckzh -Forstner Bits: amzn.to/3kk3wEI -Shop Vacuum: amzn.to/2Wkqnbl -Machine Setup Blocks: amzn.to/3gq7kDh -Counter-Sink Bit: amzn.to/37ZukUo -Featherboard: amzn.to/3DeqHsq -ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save $10): bit.ly/3BHYdH7 (If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)

[@Gadadharadas]

Such a pity I live in a faraway land of Latvia, shipping too costly. Looked up locally, damn, they sell Cubitron discs only in quantity no less than 50 pcs... 😥

[@ADB-zf5zr]

Hello Stumpy Nubs. I am having all sorts of trouble locating these 3M Cubitron II sanding discs. It is not that they are unavailable, but that the model "775L" is not attached by adhesive, it it "hook back" (velcro) as confirmed by 3M's website. Please confirm this, or help out in some way. NOTE, I would like to have simply bought the kit, but it is unavailable, and I dread to think of the international shipping costs so I was looking to buy the glass and sanding sheets separately.

[@cilismoniker7322]

I'm glad for Taylor toolworks. Normally you can only buy this sandpaper in packs of 250 or 50. It is prohibitively expensive to get the no-pattern stikit 3M cubitron II paper. The only thing I think is a bit overpriced about their offering is the glass plates. I wont link to it out of respect for you, but four 5" round mirror glass pucks cost me less than 6$ at the local hobby store. I can understand doubling the price, for similar, but at more than 3 times the price I start to feel sore about a deal. I'll be buying my sandpaper from them, but not the glass.

[@cilismoniker7322]

@@ADB-zf5zr That's because all small packs (field samples, and sub-units) are marked not-for-retail-sale. This particular sandpaper is aimed at business-to-commercial sales.

[@StumpyNubs]

@@Gadadharadas Where in Latvia? Many years ago I spent some time there. Our apartment was in the Plavnieki section of Riga. It's a wonderful country.

[@Clark42EoC]

I know I've been argumentative before but...thank you for all the tips you've given me. No amount of likes or comments or even Taylor Toolworks purchases will ever make up for that...Thank you.

[@3frogltd987]

Great sharpening tips. The Cubitron discs are amazing for wood and steel/iron. They are very effective for flattening the soles and sides of hand planes. Mike Taylor has an excellent video showing his technique.

[@SpadeAce]

Hey stumpy, hope you read this, but you got me into woodworking and I’ve been crafting for over 2 years now. I’m definitely not a pro but I’m getting there and loving the journey. I appreciate your videos. Thanks. God bless and have a good day.

[@SpadeAce]

:) so happy you saw this.

[@vaakdemandante8772]

It's a prime example of how a new technology can improve an already well established process and help save both time and money - in and of itself, a rare thing.

[@matthewblumenthal804]

You and a couple other KZbin woodworkers are definitely getting me to spend a lot of money with Taylor tool works. It's well spent. Thanks!

[@victorhopper6774]

just find a old glass frige door and buy square paper in the different grits. i have 8 grits up to 3,000. sharpining the bevel takes less than a minute. the 30 inch stroop glued to the side was by far the biggest expense. doing the back is not possible with the door because of the door frame.

[@tnekkc]

I learn something new with every Stumpy video.

[@smallbizcash]

To clarify one issue, the glass is float glass, not tempered. Tempered glass would not be suitable because the process induces a slight surface distortion and is therefore not perfectly flat. It looks like the edges of that plate need to be lightly sanded, or seamed in the vernacular, so you don’t cut yourself.

[@spyiro2007]

i would also add, just buy a machinist used surface plate, they are relatively inexpensive (especially on very small sizes), and they are very flat, and getting them to extreme flat is very easy (look at lapping on youtube, lot of great content)

[@timan2039]

It is as you say. Copied from Taylor’s website, “The kit consists of a piece a 5” x 11” dead-flat 5/16” thick float glass, …”

[@MrDancingBishop]

You can get float glass tempered. The Veritas one is tempered glass. Means it doesn't shatter if banged etc...

[@smallbizcash]

All tempered glass begins as float glass. Tempered glass will break into thousands of little pieces when it breaks. Its purpose is to reduce injury. While it is extremely strong and break resistant, merely grazing a corner with a hard metal object will cause it to shatter immediately and make one heck of a mess.

[@MrDancingBishop]

I've chipped every corner off my Veritas one and it hasn't exploded. Maybe the tempering process differs like in metal. I've seen some tempered glass fracture in a honeycomb kind of way but I think it's different. I don't know enough about the process over than it's very tough and only chips in my experience with the Veritas one 😅

[@quirkygreece]

I never tire of watching you, James - your videos are always clear and very informative and, in my opinion, just about the perfect length. Thanks.

[@robertschulke1596]

The hollow back is a traditional Japanese style. It reduces the drag when working flat surfaces. All you really need is a flat shiny back at the cutting edge. As you continue to use and wear down the chisel over the years, regular sharpening will perfect both the back and the bevel.

[@StumpyNubs]

This wasn't a Japanese chisel. The hollow was poorly positioned and formed, not an intentional manufacturing feature.

[@PandorasFolly]

​@@StumpyNubs that. That is funny.

[@zapa1pnt]

@@PandorasFolly: "that. That is funny." That. That makes no sense.

[@PandorasFolly]

@@zapa1pnt the comedic value is derived from the expectations of Roberts overly long explanation of the japanese hollow back being counterpointed by Stumoy saying basically "yeah that isn't a Japanese chisel. Its just so shittily made that it looks like one." The deadpan reaction from stumpy to Robert's mismatch in expectations to the reality of the situation also provides another layer of humor. The entire thing is like listending to a wine expert going on about the mouth feel of what he is drinking and the history of the Laroche sweet style of wine and then a waiter walks up and says "uh sir that is the children's sparkling grape juice. I hope i explained it sufficiently

[@davekavanagh7599]

I'll also add, the flat of a Japanese chisel is not only the front, but the sides too, otherwise it just wouldn't work. Also you could see Stumpys chisel hollow was really off to one side, so totally worthless as a hollow. Best that it's just gone

[@mikamajlund3622]

Thanks Stumpy. Your content are always helpful and not just commercials. You recommend what you have find out is working. I'm just a hobbyist and only professional thing I own is the Sjöberg 😂. The reason is its made her in Sweden and we can bay work benches for quite low cost. Now I learned how to sharpen chisels with out expensive stones.. thanks 🙏

[@beauw5630]

100% on the BOW feather board. I own 3 and am going to get the one for the bandsaw next. Total game changer!

[@catbutler1343]

Ordered the sharpening kit and some other stuff today. Your videos are so helpful. As a relative beginner you have helped improve the pleasure, efficiency and quality of my work.

[@mikamajlund3622]

I got same experience as you 👍

[@214rwoz]

Thanks for all your time and effort.

[@nigelb4318]

I really appreciate your instructional videos, as a complete novice ( at 65 years young) your details are pertinent and persuasive. Thanks :)

[@jakelilevjen9766]

Quick tip: if you are more concerned about making sure the tool is sharp, rather than making the back PERFECTLY flat, you only need to flatten the back until you see the shine up to about an inch behind the blade. You can go less if you are in a real rush, but be aware that the back is used as a reference surface for paring (see the response from Stumpy Nubs to my original, unedited post, below.) The more you take off in your initial flattening (the further back you take your shiny surface), the longer you can go before needing to flatten the back again. Need to keep the dull hollows from getting too close to the edge, or it’s time to flatten.

[@StumpyNubs]

You use the back of a chisel as a reference for paring. At least an inch or so should be flat. Since this method is so easy, I did the whole thing.

[@jakelilevjen9766]

@@StumpyNubs Most of the time, we are talking about a few thousandths of an inch. I am a perfectionist myself, so I spend WAY too much time on my tools. An inch seems like a better number than a quarter inch, though, so thank you! I will edit my original post.

[@louisvictor3473]

​@@StumpyNubs Depends if the hollow was made intentionally or you get lucky and the hollow happens to be more centred like intentional hollows are, tbh. In that case, you'd just make there is acontinous flat bad around the 3 edges, no need for it to be that thick Not usual for modern factory made chisels to have a intentionall hollow this side of the Ural mountains as far as I know, but I wouldn't be surprised if some don't come up with hollows accidentally centred well enough.

[@StumpyNubs]

I know of no common Western chisel sold in the US that has an intentionally made hollow.

[@louisvictor3473]

@@StumpyNubs I don't know about the US market, but I am just saying that even if it is not intentional, as long as the hollow doesn't reach the edges, it will register correctly

[@garylane1920]

There’s both pros and cons to using different types of glass for this sharpening procedure ,going by all these comments , but I would highly recommend coating any glass used on the back side with a thick safety window film that will help shatter proof the glass , just in case . As a window tinting here in Tasmania ( Australia ) I get plenty “off cuts “ of a clear film designed to offer “non safety “ glazing by shatter proofing it . Even with laminated glass, I’d use it as you can still get tiny fragments that will breakaway and the film can offer less chance of those flying everywhere.( I just use it on the underside only as having the sanding sheets on top ; particularly if glued down ; will help minimise loose glass fragments on that side from going everywhere and also make glass disposal easier. Whilst any type of sticky films ( masking tape - signage type films and those obtained from the stationary shops to cover school books etc ) could be used . But the thicker window films are specifically designed and tested for safety applications and would be far better choice for this . The thickest type generally available is up to 12 thou thick but I find the regular 4 thou that I use is ok and also helps stiffens up glass when broken but the thicker ones would be even better .( you could try contacting your local window / glass tinters retailer shops to see if they can supply you some off cuts that most would generally dispose of.) As another excellent use for the safety films that I’ve found , is by bonding it directly to the back of those thin ( Emery paper backed type metal sanding and wood type sandpaper sheets and then one can cut into narrow strips to suit projects as small flexible ( sanding files ) as this greatly increase the strength and life of the sanding paper .Without it , I find the paper backed sanding papers tend to tear / break quickly Again any sticky tapes / films can help but by using the the glass safety films; which are generally made of a polyester based plastics; don’t stretch like the other materials plus have a very high tensile strength. I personally use a glass sheet about 4 to 5 mm thick that’s slightly longer than the length of the standard sanding sheet and slightly wider while using an old type USA made “General 810 “ model plane blade & chisel sharpener as the overall glass length offers the full use of the sanding paper I hope this info helps

[@garylane1920]

@Jay Khan Just a quick follow up to reply If you use any window films to stick to the back of sanding papers ; you would want to use only those with a sticky ( pressure sensitive type glues ) which you will find on auto films / frosted and decorative type film ( except the static type films that don’t use glue applications ) and safety films as generally the majority of flat glass film on the market now tend to use a dry glue system only designed for flat glass applications and don’t have that high sticky glue . So not suited for other applications . If using the auto type films , your generally find due to the there thickness ; which are normally about 1 to 1.2 thou thick ; will offer a bit more flexibility compared to the frost type films which can ( depending on brands etc) be a bit thicker again and the safety films even thicker .. One off the main advantages doing this if a project requires sanding / polishing small holes / slots for example ; application of a suitable film backing allows the sanding sheets to be cut into fairly narrow strips to increase tear resistance and ads the extra tensile strength that otherwise without its use would tear / break very quickly. Trust this info may be of help

[@-_-hi8964]

Thank you Cheers.

[@dustinhoffman9843]

What are some really good chisels that are well made and don't cost a fortune. Thanks for all the awesome informative videos

[@Ceen328]

Older question, but my tip would be a set of 'Kirschen' chisel. Kirschen (translates to cherries) is an old german brand. A set with oak handels (can be replaced and bought at their store) costs around 120€ for a 6 piece kit. They also make them with composite handels for outdoor use (wet conditions) for like 20€ more, but the wood handels look better IMO.

[@williammitchell8612]

Another outstanding tutorial from a master woodworker! And I will checking out the posted links, as well. Thank you!

[@cyrilnorrie8450]

Another great, time saving video. This gives me more time to watch more of your videos.😂 Thanks for sharing your techniques!

[@StephenCobb-ik7zc]

I think scary sharp was coined on the old rec.woodworking news group. Ron Hock was a contributor on that group, and made the comment that carbon steel tools can get so sharp that it is scary. Later on, someone else described sharpening (presumably with sandpaper) and made the comment that the tool was so sharp that it scared Ron Hock. I think that is where the term was born.

[@watermain48]

Great tutorial James. Thanks for sharing it.

[@andyboxish4436]

Very timely video, I have been on the scary sharp subject lately thinking about it a lot, I feel like you are psychic.

[@scott8351]

James thank you. I have been trying to flatten the back of a Stanley plane iron, which was going slowly. I tried this method and it worked quickly. I had some cubitron discs 120 grit and that did the trick. That set would be good if just starting out.

[@glencrandall7051]

Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂

[@lisaferrara8120]

Having used wet stones to prepare my chisels and taking a lot of time to do this, thank you for sharing this technique. It is definitely faster!!!!

[@zapa1pnt]

AND, it doesn't wear away, like wet stones. So, you don't have to keep flattening the wet stones, with"flattening" stones, which have often been found to not be flat themselves. 😁✌🖖

[@lisaferrara8120]

@@zapa1pnt Oh, I agree. Wet stones are high maintenance.

[@MCsCreations]

Really interesting indeed! Thanks, James! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@jaymzx0]

Cubitron is truly some 21st century abrasive. They also offer much higher grit levels than you would usually use for wood, but they work wonderfully on metals and plastics. And they last seemingly forever unless you abuse them. I keep 'worn out' discs for use with my hand sanding block as they still have a lot of life in them when they cease to cut as well on the power tool.

[@jeffstover9579]

I'll preface this by saying after watching your video I ordered the kit. Just for kicks I took a set of four new chisels that I just bought to the garage and did a little work on them. I put 220 grit 3M Xtract on a 1/4 piece of aluminum to see if I could just knock down the machine tool marks on the back and bevel. In five minutes I worked out those tooling marks and the dips on the back. I can't wait to get the kit. For about $30, this is the ticket.

[@danalaniz7314]

Really excellent demo and explanation. Thanks!

[@54mgtf22]

Love your work, Stumpy 👍

[@gumby600]

Thanks for the tips! I work for a GC, not a fine woodworking shop, but I still have a chisel!

[@ThePompell]

this is awesome I just bought my first chisel and sharpening kit. I might buy an expensive kit later but i'm glad i can start out at a reasonable cost.

[@richardandrew2869]

Hi there Stumpy I think your KZbin items are just great to see. Full of surprises. Greetings from Matamata, New Zealand.

[@user-io9ln1or7c]

Thank you Sir.🎉

[@richmorin424]

I have a couple of FeatherPro's and absolutely love them.

[@covishen]

This sounds like it's worth exploring. Thank you for this video.

[@luisapaza317]

awesome, gonna search them in my country. thanks, i really apreciate your work

[@d.k.1394]

Use the sandpaper to smooth the edges of the glass!

[@dusty7264]

I have used Japanese water stones for years to get razor sharp edges, however I have not heard about that sandpaper, I’m going to check it out

[@i-am-fiendish]

Stumpy is the GOAT.

[@artswri]

Great info Thanks! (bought a Tormek, love it)

[@SirPrancelot1]

Great information. Thank you.

[@MASI_forging]

Outstanding work. 👏👏

[@JP-su8bp]

Solid tip. Thank you.

[@humang]

So i ordered the kit after watching the video. It took a few weeks to get and they replaced the smaller disks with larger ones in order to ship it faster. No issues, just cut off two edges and you end up with a bigger abrasive surface. I choose to use my wheel guide and i have to say, the process is at least 75% faster than using stones. I'll not go back.

[@gallowaylights]

Smooth advice 😊

[@Bob_Adkins]

Cubitron is a mixture of coarse and finer grits, so a given grit produces a better finish than other sandpaper of equal grit. Great stuff, lasts forever, I love it! "Scary sharp" is very fleeting because 1 or 2 cuts in hardwood reduce scary sharp to simply "very sharp". I stop when the edge will shave because it doesn't last even with the best steel.

[@glasshalffull2930]

I’ve done some wood carving and I keep a strop beside me as I work. As soon as I feel the edge start to dull, I give it a few strokes. I also keep a container of bandaids on my bench 😉

[@gergc4871]

Ordered. Thank you. If my nubs are going to be stumpy, its going to be a very clean cut.

[@DaninVA]

Very cool system! I am always looking for faster ways to sharper.

[@Ashitaka1110]

If only they made adhesive-backed Cubitron discs for the Worksharp. I can dream.

[@avenger429]

You can always get the 8" PSA discs and punch a hole in the center, lol. They say they make them on the 3M site, but list no distributors for them.

[@thomasnourse7506]

Just ordered my kit!!!

[@DesignEcologies]

Thank you

[@paulpardee]

Oh, no! Big Cube's gotten to James! :D I gave up on flattening the back of my chisels because it was taking so long on my water stones. I might have to give this a try!

[@Fly420]

Now THAT was a good one. I looked at Taylor and they are in Boone Co., Missouri. While you are there you could pick up an internationally famous Boone County Ham. Mizzou is right there too: just the insect collection is worth seeing. TIP: for gluing sandpaper onto glass, Aleenes' is just fine, as long as you are working by hand. That Titebond is not near the product T-50 was. You should tell Bridge City that they have a virus. My anti-virus is not good enough to risk contacting them.

[@billtiffin8298]

I am going to have to try this Thanks

[@paulwomack5866]

Scary Sharp (as a name for sharpening with sandpaper) was invented (as a term) in a post by the later Steve LaMantia on the USENET group rec.woodworking, about 1995. The technique of sharpening with sandpaper is about as old as sandpaper.

[@rich6023]

I use a surface plate so don't need the plate glass. I appreciate the info on the cubitron sandpaper. Didn't know it existed. Thanks.

[@davelink1318]

Good video, I'm new to all this and just got a glass kit with paper, and went through a lot of paper, have to get some of that paper!!! Thanks again!!!

[@d.k.1394]

Great idea

[@Dr_Lord]

Great video! thank you for the sharpening tip.

[@davebaldridge5917]

Great vid! I bought a set to try out. Thanks for the tip!

[@wernerviehhauser94]

I used a polished granite tile since I had a few lying around. Also less worrying about breaking it.

[@user-qg6fy4yp8t]

I have ordered in the past from Taylor toolworks...they have got different sharpening system. I have ordered from them their setting of sharpening using the drill bench.

[@BigBlueDog8]

I bought multiple large packs before I knew anything about the cubitron by 3m. Looking forward to sharpening a few things. I have been using a guided sharpener for my knives. I replaced the stones with an aluminum bar and sticky back sand paper. Can't wait to try the cubitron for that.

[@gbear056]

Outstanding idea BlueDog! I have what’s probably a version of your sharpener and I’ve always been disappointed at how quickly the Diamond stones wear. I’ll definitely give this a try. Thanks for posting!

[@alwayslearning8365]

Thank you.👍

[@utubeape]

This is a great idea because the stones of the same grits are so very expensive and you have to keep flattening them with a diamond stone

[@jimbennett2940]

First off, I REALLY enjoy your videos - I'm quite put off by those guys who start off with some loud obnoxious "HEY GUYS THIS IS xxxxx AND TODAY...." Your videos are very informative and cut right to the chase. Plus, your enunciation and clear speaking is a pleasure to listen to - keep it up! OK, on this video - I've been a woodworker for quite a few years and the wood chisel isn't one of my go to tools. But when I need to use one, mine always seem to fight me. I think I'll have a lot better luck in the future following your tips here about sharpening those little buggers! Thanks!!

[@jimbo2629]

I’d be interested to know how sharp a chisel is after the first few cuts, because that would indicate how fine the grit needs to be when sharpening. I suspect that above 1000 grit is mostly spoilt by the first cut.

[@philliparudolph9595]

gotta love TayTool

[@asmith7876]

In a previous career we required extremely flat and accurate surfaces to perform a certain test. Granite slabs were the only things that met the standard, they were very expensive even for a piece the size of a piece of paper, but maybe 3-4 inches thick. I bet a piece of glass is good enough for me!

[@DanielJoyce]

Granite tiles from the tile store can work too

[@victorhopper6774]

i picked up a old glass frige door for free. room for ovrer 8 sheets of full sized sheets of sand paper. i left it in the frame for safety and ease of moving. its about 2 feet by 4 feet works great

[@tekanger975]

I always, always enjoy watching your videos. Got to confess that I'm not much of a wood worker, certainly not a craftsman. Still I am occassionally inspired to try something a little crafty. This video does raise a question in my mind. I am wondering why the "hollow" in the back of the chisel needed to be completely sanded out since the area immediately behind the cutting edge was flattened relatively quickly? I would understand why a "hump" that you mentioned would need to be flattened. What am I missing here?

[@user-oe8gj7fz6v]

Thanks

[@jimmyconn7314]

Save sandpaper money,buy 8x11 inch sheet ,take sandpaper with both hands and roll it across any door frame ect. This removes any high spots in the sandpaper in manufacturing.did this for years shaping surfboards,where the material is soft and easy to mar.thus making a better smoother accurate cut.!

[@RYwoodview]

These are such good sanding discs. Neat to see them enhance this sharpening approach!

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

Great tutorial thanks mate

[@EvenTheDogAgrees]

Yup, Cubitron II is great stuff. I use it on my belt sander, and I got some angle grinder discs that are also made of the stuff. Long lasting, cut fast, and produce a lot less heat. That last bit doesn't matter when hand sanding. But when shaping knives, it really helps keep your stock cooler for longer, so you don't have to dip in water as often, saving precious time.

[@egbluesuede1220]

I've been amazed at how quickly that sandpaper cuts metal and sharpens steel. I was surprised you didn't show the kits Mike sells for the drill press to make the process even faster. I made this a few months ago, and sharpened about 20 vintage chisels to razor sharp in about 15 minutes. Absolutely blew my mind and converted me to this system for all my tools now.

[@zapa1pnt]

So, who is "Mike"?

[@MikeWilliams-yp9kl]

Great video , ❤ info too.

[@richardbrobeck2384]

Nice Product !

[@tootsrr1]

The sharpness of the Tools is only good as how sharp the Person hold the Tool is....Great video always learning thanks

[@dpmeyer4867]

thanks

[@J.A.Smith2397]

You had already sold me on this sandpaper, you my boy blue

[@rjtumble]

Hopefully, 3M is going to survive the PFAS and earplug lawsuits so we can continue getting this fantastic sandpaper.

[@user-nn4vw2nc3r]

Thanks a ton for putting this video out man. If you hadn't, odds are i never would've tried the cubitron ii paper out. It definitely is excellent stuff. I doubt id have considered there'd be much difference between brands or that itd even be worthwhile to use a consumable for sharpening. Well i should say something that wears out more quickly since even diamond plates wear out over time. oh and i had the misfortune of learning the cheap plates i bought also wear out extremely fast if you put much of any pressure on them as well...D'oh!

[@marshallmerriam1548]

THANK you for that

[@metatechnologist]

Really good video thanks!

[@lawrencehutchinson2320]

For initial flattening off this seems good, though a diamond stone is also fine. The flat plate still seems slow, and to involve too much material removal, compared to a traditional hollow-grind from a wheel on the angled bevel - as was usually done by working joiners e.g. here in the uk. Once you have the hollow grind set, you can keep a blade sharp with just a few strokes on an oilstone or similar. Just takes a few seconds, as you only have to remove material from the very tip

[@adama1294]

Could you look at and do a review the Taytools drill press jig for sharpening chisels?

[@comeontars]

Would this work on a curved blade?

[@ropable]

Finally, a use for the 320 grit discs I bought and never use

[@mariushegli]

I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.

[@bkormoski1]

NICE!

[@avenuex3731]

3:07 Japanese chisels have a hollow back by design. You don’t remove it. It helps too reduce effort in resharpening. And scary sharp the whole time

[@StumpyNubs]

This isn't a Japanese chisel.

[@avenuex3731]

@@StumpyNubs obviously so. That’s not the point. The point is there is no real reason the back needs to be dead flat. So long as the long axis is straight, which it oftentimes isn’t from tempering, you can leave the back hollow. Once the edges of the back sit flat on a known flat surface you are done.

[@StumpyNubs]

@@avenuex3731 While you may not have to eliminate the entire hollow on the back, it is fast and easy to do so with this method. So why not? A western chisel relies upon a flat surface as a reference while paring. I find it essential to have at least an inch or so flat. You may do as you prefer.

[@pauljohnson8324]

Is that a set of Popular Mechanics Encyclopedia to bottom right of the screen? My dad bought me a set of those 45 years ago and I still look at them and use them to this day!

[@cvantrease1231]

Cubitron 2 and 3inch roll loc grinding disk in a m12 right angle die grinder is also magic nearly replaced my old 4.5inch porter cable plug jn grinder for all my needs.

[@pathardage1880]

amazing

[@pdloder]

I remember riding the Cubitron back in the 80's - so much fun trying to get out of the corners when it was spinning so fast😱🤮

[@saitamagotchi44]

That chisel is so sharp it makes it look like you were cutting cheese not wood.