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Ralph Waldo Emerson once wrote “Its the not the Destination, It's the journey.” I know the phrase has become a bit of a cliche nowadays but it does repeating especially when you're in Fiji and obstacle after obstacle is invariably thrown in your way. Let me explain. Accompanied by friends, I was supposed to be visiting Monasavu Dam in the valley of the Central Highlands of Fiji. Years ago you could wander as freely as you liked - this being Fiji, after all. Not these days. Spoiler alert. We got to Monasavu Dam not only to be told we couldn't get a close look at it but also that taking photos and videos wasn't allowed. It was a security risk. Really? Apparently, a directive had come down from on high. Like I said, this is Fiji. It's hardly on a major international political fault-line. Despite that, we got to visit the sublime Nadarivatu Highlands, meet some fascinating people, experience some extraordinary microclimates, catch a glimpse of the turquoise waters of Nanuku River which feeds the dam, and see inside an eerily deserted colonial-era villa with chimneys! Oh, and I got to hear the "bark" of the Barking Dove (also known as the Barking Imperial Pigeon) which is endemic to Fiji. I would have relished the journey just for the Barking Dove. It was a glorious day and the company of Mike and Molly was equally glorious.