A Simple Framing Jig To Help You Frame Your Basement Walls

[@ChildofYah-oy3qs]

I cannot thank you enough for sharing your knowledge and experience. Blessings and more blessings to you and your family in Yahusha's name amen 🙏 😊

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@ChildofYah-oy3qs you are very welcome. More to come!

[@Darksagan]

Great video. Sick T-shirt.

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@Darksagan the Tshirt compliment is what’s important. Thank you for watching!

[@Aboston857]

As a framer I gotta say this is actually sick

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@Aboston857 not as helpful for a pro but for that solo weekend warrior it’s really handy. I never frame without it. Which means I use it once a decade 😂

[@FullCircleTravis]

I've been working in the trades for 25 years. This is a construction no-no. Doing this leads to compound mistakes. Construction grade lumber doesn't have a consistent thickness, it's nominal and rough planed. A knot might add 1/16", or maybe every board is 1/16" thin on one end, and not the other due to milling inconsistencies. Every time that board isn't exactly 1.5" thick, it's either adding to or subtracting from the distance. More studs you have, the greater the compound mistake. Even on a 12' wall you could end up 3/4" out, which is enough that you have nothing to screw your drywall to. It could also be out of plumb as well. You always measure from one end of the sill plate, which is called your datum point. Then you just put a mark at 16", which is easy because every decent measuring tape has highlighted 16" measurements, so you don't even have to do math. Then you measure from the second datum which is the other end, as the second last board will also be at 16". The first and last studs are flush, and for the rest you just line up the board so that the mark on the sill is centred on the board. When you're working on a basement you have to use either pressure treated or use a barrier. So you lay out your wall locations and nail or screw the bottom plate to the concrete. Then you build your walls 1.5" shorter to allow for the extra bottom plate, and 1/4" less than exact to make installing it less tight. Then you stand the wall up, and lift it vertically onto the other plates you installed. Then nail the non-treated plate to the treated plate underneath. Once the two bottom plates are nailed together, you shim the top plate and joist connection and nail it once the wall is plumb. You can build the wall loose and shim up to 1/2" gap because the ceiling drywall goes on first and the thickness will cover that gap. It also gives you more to screw into when installing the wall drywall. If you're installing suspended ceiling, it will hand down 3-4" and cover the gap. It only costs about $6 more to build the wall with a double bottom plate, and it will save you a lot of time and headache being able to build the walls on the floor without needing to toe-nail. There is a reason why there is no commercially available 16" jig for setting studs, and it's because it's a terrible practice to compound measuring mistakes.

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@FullCircleTravis did you watch the video? This jig isn’t for you. Thanks for all your well thought out opinions though.

[@FullCircleTravis]

@@StreamlineWoodshop I don't give advice, and then check afterwards to see what mistakes I've made. Take care.

[@andytommeo]

@@StreamlineWoodshop Thanks a million for your sharing. You already said it's not for the pro AND need to check once in while for accuracy. Lots of people want to talk but not listening. Please share more videos. I learned great tips from yours. Subscribed!

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@andytommeo more to come!

[@-_.._._--_.-.-_-_-_-...-.-]

Seems like a tool looking for a problem that doesn't exist. I love jigs and templates, but this seems more work than it's worth. A clamp and a speed square work fine for most applications. A jig should always make it faster, easier, and more accurate., not slower, harder, and inaccurate. "Check it because this jig will mess up your on-centers if you use it more than once."

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

I always dig a great jig thanks

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@bradleytuckwell4881 as a woodworker my brain is always Jig first. Ask questions last. 😂

[@jakenruss]

Thanks for walking through it!

[@chippydog2]

Hey I gotta thank you for your jig! It’s working fantastic with framing my log house loft floor!

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@chippydog2 I love this! Thank you telling me and just remember to keep checking you stay on center on the longer runs.

[@chippydog2]

@@StreamlineWoodshopsounds good!

[@chippydog2]

When placing the jig into the joist we’ll the 14 1/2 “ side inside, the 16” side sticks up allowing me to scribe a pencil mark on the end and then using a rafter square I can run a pencil line straight down to align the screws into my joist ( I did however use a small level making sure it was plumb before driving the screws home ) So sweet of a tool ! I’ll be using this on the main floor walls and the loft walls soon Again thanks for a great tool jig ! So simple a caveman can do it!😂

[@manningchiro]

EXCELLENT!! Love it.

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@manningchiro awesome! Thanks for the positive feedback!

[@HescottDesignCo]

Now I need to work out to hold all my jigs…thanks for shaming me! Strong work Mark!

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@HescottDesignCo it’s the only reason I attempt to stay in shape.

[@Digital_Spector]

Solid work bro thank you

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@Digital_Spector appreciate the kind words!

[@zoso1123]

I just lay out with a tape measure works every time

[@rogerjohnston4952]

Thank you

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@rogerjohnston4952 you are welcome!

[@markschroth5700]

Great info thanks

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@markschroth5700 you got it! Thanks for watching.

[@Shaaktl]

I'm making one of these

[@HeyItsHot]

nice to see a dewalt user on here.

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@HeyItsHot I’m actually a makita man when it comes to my shop cordeles tools. But dewalt makes the best field tools IMO

[@bobbg9041]

Simple fast, pretty acutely placing 2x4 yes your going to see real Framers use it. Come on off a 32nd over 6' I'm lucky if i can find a stud in my walls every 16" and they used tape measures. The guy just couldn't read it. This jig is better then measuring. On most jobs if you can make spaces fast and equal it speeds the job up, railing is installed this way, so are decks, fences and pickets even stair hand rails. This tool is slick, The less times you need to do math Or measure the less mistakes you make. Clever jig.

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@bobbg9041 truly appreciate you writing this and I can’t disagree! Great minds think alike! Thank you for watching and commenting.

[@elzurdo2089]

What distance do you center the 13 5/8" board to?

[@carguy1312]

Genius. People are buying the metal version with only the 16” center for $60.

[@MountainEagle77]

You better have perfect store-bought wood. This will only work with dimensional lumber, not rough sawn lumber.

[@psywiped]

Because your framing a basement and it's just supporting the wall finish you can go 24in oc. An improved layout might be to make the story stick 46.5in and the other side your stud spacing as your filling in the wall anyway. That would reduce your compounding error some. Check the icc site for the insulation requirements for your climate zone as you may need r5 of continuous insulation because your not going to be able to get r19 in a 2x4 wall. Gonna regret not having a vapor barrier.

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@psywiped thanks for the tips! Totally spaced a vapor barrier but have a plan to add one. No worries.

[@currycases]

Yea dawg!

[@kplatt8912]

You forgot insulated foam board behind the studs. You want ICB because you want to make sure the dew point transition doesn't occur in fiberglass bats as they don't like moisture. Taped ICB will also provide a moisture barrier.

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@kplatt8912 you’re telling me! I’m actually able to slip it behind the walls in most locations. In the other areas I’ll just need to cut them down and slide them in.

[@approachingpassive]

Great point at 3:00 “you wouldn’t frame your house with this.” Story boards, jigs, and anything that helps complete a building task is helpful but doesn’t replace the fundamental tools.

[@jasonritzman7622]

Oh boy here we go Try a tape measure.

[@SanctuaryGardenLiving]

Never shot a 16 penny nail into my hand, though I did shoot a brad through my fingernail (and finger). Won't do that again because I won't ever trust a nail, brad or staple to go straight.

[@doublewrench69]

The creepy craftsman!!!

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@doublewrench69 you know it! Im like Bruce Wayne on KZbin though.

[@peterbarlow8912]

Using a spa

[@fanli279]

how you placed the second piece at 13 5/8 makes punch of difference😅. have no idea this first one part...😂

[@hoosierLowe]

In the trades this is called a "story board".....tells the same story each time

[@jimklemens5018]

You could have easily nailed those studs in from the top rather then toe nailing.

[@joeoathkeepernuno7086]

YEAH! THAT'S WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT! 🫡

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@joeoathkeepernuno7086 me too!

[@BrandonHatmaker-m2t]

🤭

[@larrth61]

Wish you could have held it still for 30 seconds so we could assemble it correctly instead of waving it like a flag through the whole video

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@larrth61 it’s not all that complicated and I explain what to do. But I’m happy to answer any questions you may have.

[@Bbbbbbb690]

Theres a thing called a pause button. If you cant figure how to make this then you probably shouldn’t take on a project like this

[@grampydeathblade2217]

LOL whatevs

[@Sjwolosz321]

Wow ..That came close " This is not for framer " .. Had that contraption suddenly appereared on my site .. I would think " Someone just wasted time dicking around " .. then if I saw it being used . I would ask " Has it been wind tunnel tested and fling it off the mountain " ..

[@StreamlineWoodshop]

@@Sjwolosz321 just a jig to help the diy’r