Kearney & Trecker Parking Attachment Part 13

[@joshua43214]

Thank you for pushing these videos out so rapidly. I imagine your buddy wants his parking attachment back, so you are working hard to get it back to him. Still, it is appreciated from this end. I hope you are able to keep doing the project videos. I enjoy SoS, but the projects are what I really enjoy.

[@Abom79]

Thanks. I'm trying to get it finished up, I'm ready to move on myself.

[@fritsvanderplas3014]

Hi abom, here frits out of the Netherlands. I saw most of your videos, especially the last uploaded ones. I learned a lot of you and I'm still learning. Specially your skills of working with the equipment. For me is it just a hobby. Normally I worked with wood, but lately I changed over to steel. I just got a new late machine and a milling machine, I just start to learn how the machines are working. Mostly I learned it from KZbin. Specially from you. And trough this way I learned how the work with inches because normally in the Netherlands we work with matric. I look forward to your next 200 KZbin videos. When my own workshop is finished I will send you some pics. You are doing a great job keep on going! Greets frits van der plas

[@machinesmotorcycles5511]

Outstanding job on this attachment , it is turning out to be a real piece of work and unlike a casted part it has a story that goes with it , I really like that. Great work Adam.

[@stevecoe-pcjunke2377]

The LED light itself worked best in my opinion, your other brighter light seems to cause glare. As always, it's a pleasure watching your videos.

[@Abom79]

I think on video the clip light is a bit much, but works good otherwise for the end user.

[@Godshole]

I vote for sending the arm back to John so he can engrave it on the upper side. I was confused about which way up it went till now and it would be nice to be able to see it when you use it. A reminder of the amazing community of machinists that has grown exponentially over these last few years thanks to all the time you and other 'gods of swarf' have put in to it. It still blows me away how educational and entertaining the content is :) Learning by stealth.... Thank you Sir (bows)

[@Gwlyddyn]

I have watched every single episode of "parking attachment" and still have absolutely NO clue what you are making but I love it!

[@Abom79]

It'll all come together very soon but as John said, it's to mount, dismount, and hold the vertical milling head on the K&T milling machine.

[@RobertJLessard]

+Abom79 I've been watching them all too and wondering what it was for. Makes sense if it's to 'park' the milling head. US guys with tiny machines don't know about this stuff. When I first saw John Saunders show about making it I thought it was something for a big rig parking break. lol

[@blainerueckwald]

Love your work, I have no metalworking experience and in fact am a retired financial planner and an amateur woodworker. I find the ability to think through a project is similar to what I have done in building furniture and really like the way you explain what you are doing in terms that even non-machinists can understand.

[@gilbertodiazcastro8871]

Hi Adam. Thanks for sharing this project full of learning opportunities for all of us. One thing you mentioned was using a sharpie mark and zeroing the crank on the table for realignment, I think there is an easier, accurate and faster way to get there and be on spot within .0005". I use a "last word" indicator against a square stud that mounts on the T-slot on the bed, back the piece out of the way to change tools then bring it back to the zero on the indicator...

[@pauliepatches]

I'm so looking forward to final video when you use the attachment. I not a machinist but watching your videos, and seeing the amount of quality and craftsmanship you put into your work is amazing.

[@kannznichkaufen]

One more hint concerning the cpl filter : adjusting it means rotating it in front of the lens. When you observe the preview on the display while rotating it, you will observe the picture getting lighter or darker in some positions. You will also find that reflections on non metal surfaces will be reduced stronger in some positions. This may help when shooting indicators. In other situations the filter will just reduce the amount of available light. Depending on settings the camera may compensate for that. But as pointed out by others, in indoor situations generally you will prefer using all the light you can get. But readability of indicators can be improved with the cpl if it is adjusted to the position to block the reflections on the glas. Keep up the good work. Cheers Michael

[@lesfoster4364]

Hi Adam, Good to see you give that keyless chuck a try. I have some other Vertex stuff and have been very pleased with the quality. See you at Stan's on Saturday. Cheers, Les

[@Jacob-64]

cpl filter. ... circular polarising filter used in landscape photography , more useful for outdoors to stop reflections and enhance the blue skies and also add more saturation. It will also make your gopro underexpose. It should cut down reflection on the glass on the indicators.

[@Jacob-64]

Next time your on with the gopro and it's sunny with the cpl fitted ,stand with the sun at 90 degrees ,spin the outer ring on the filter it'll help you understand more what the filter will do . Best results are when there are some clouds about . Hope this helps Adam . Great vids sean

[@Graham_Langley]

Agreed about the underexposure.

[@ArcAiN6]

Man, i gotta say, love your videos. Real down to earth common sense approach to machining.

[@DoItYourselfMusician]

Your CPL filter is a Circular Polarizer. You should be able to hold it in front of your eye and spin it to see if it affects the reflections. If it does cut the reflections mount it to the go pro in the same orientation that you looked through it.

[@brendanjacob162gaming4]

What a great wid week suprise I love these videos. I am going to become an apprentice in my 3rd and 4th year of highschool through a government funded apprenticeship co-operative education program, I really learn a lot from these videos and pick up things that I wont learn in my shop class at school keep up the great work!

[@Abom79]

That's great!!

[@arnljotseem8794]

That is the finest parking attachment there is. Nice build and great video as always.

[@TreeTop1947]

Thanks for showing that Noga internal deburring tool, Adam. I can't tell you how many times I could have used one of those! TreeTop

[@turningpoint6643]

Very nicely done Adam, that should work as good or better than the parking attachments K & T sold. Fwiw I usually just slap a magnetic indicator base with the standard vertical rod on the table and use that as a stop for the arm on my co-ax. Quick to mount and remove and it frees up one hand. Works just as well upside down with the base attached to the underside of the ram for larger work also.

[@Ujeb08]

Coming along great Adam! I hope when it's finished you attach it and show us it's purpose in life to tie it all together.

[@tedsykora1858]

I think your videos are getting easier to see, but more important I think your explanations of what you are trying to do is also improving

[@johnc4352]

Hey Adam, you showed how to use the marker to return back to a spot, you should show the viewers how the slot and movable stops on the front side of the table can be used to return back to a spot, or set to make repeatable length items. It looks line yours has an automatic kick out too, good view of it at 22:00.

[@Barefoot3us]

A really great fit on the pin after the reamer good job. All the fits look great on all the parts that mesh together. Very nice job and it will be cool when it's mounted up on the K&T. Thanks for the video.

[@binks166]

Hey Adam, great to meet you at the bash. My best to you, Harvey from Nebraska

[@jusb1066]

yay first, first like too! thanks for the midweek special Adam! for finish, clear coat the smaller arm so you can see the amazing detail, for the larger, tape off the recesses and bolt holes, media blast it to help paint adhesion and to blend in the various welds and surface pits, and use a nice machine paint.

[@matthewhelton1725]

Great build! Great result! We might need to talk about a simple slotting job for the K&T... I could mill the slots on my vertical mill and a conventional endmill, but they won't be as clean as with a horizontal mill (Making a tool holder for my "obsolete" toolpost).

[@ursosaollo]

Am I the only one getting really excited to see this attachment working? Haha Great videos!

[@1947JustinCase]

A polarizing filter can be turned by hand to engage or disengage the polarizing effect. It's most effective on reflective surfaces such as glass, water, wet surfaces, or shiny polished things.

[@forrestaddy9644]

Adam, you're having too much fun assembling parts that fit just right.

[@RGSABloke]

Adam, I agree with Steve Cole, use the LED. LED lighting is much more complex than conventional tungsten bulbs. I saved over £400 in six months converting my home to LED. That attachment is really coming together! Can't wait to see you on the 4 jaw challenge at the Bash, I can already see you with that Keith Fenner belt adorning your body/workshop!!!!! Seriously good luck big chap. Joe

[@zigzag77777]

Hi Adam, Suggest that you have a light from the general direction of your right shoulder. I think a simple 50 watt MR16 - 12v narrow flood should work well. Or any 50 watt Halogen spot / flood lamp in a clamp on socket @ 120v. I've also noticed this when you use either mill.

[@jimliechty2983]

another great video Adam...been watching more from my smartphone and finally figured out how to comment! Thanks for prooving the accuracy of stacking adapters to get by on the mill...always hated doing that, but at times there is not a lot of choices. keep em' coming!

[@ndlsjk]

Love those keyless chucks - I run anywhere from 2-6 of them in my VF-2. I have a few Techniks and a few other random brands but they are all the Albright style and all of them are super accurate even at 8000 ripems.

[@jesusjcrrotary9271]

Looking good, I can't wait to see the threaded bolt! I like the pitted portion on the arm, adds grit!

[@davidmotoman4956]

Gee thats orsome when it comes out Perfecto. getting so close. The filter seems to be working pretty good No glare on the indicator dial. keep up the good Work Adom.

[@michaelh3949]

Thank you for all the time you give to teach, I'm very grateful and really enjoy all that you do,

[@DuncanMaguire]

An unexpected pleasure, a new vid mid-week :) Beautiful work Adam!

[@garyc5483]

Excellent job. Coming together real nice Adam. regards from the UK

[@terrylarotonda784]

Another great set up and finish job Adam

[@derKarl_stp]

nice vid Adam by the way... if you want to reduce the light getting into the cam you should use the ND filter... if you want to get rid of glare and reflections the CPL (you could even combine both but would reduce the light getting into the lens even more) and with the CPL you would have to check the position it is in via LIVE-view on your smartphone (as I said in the vid I sent you) can't wait to see the finished part once it is done :D and mounted to the K&T

[@andrewterry8092]

Wow, mid-week bonus episode, thanks Adam!

[@jorgescordamaglia1654]

Hi Adam: I feel that an ER40 chuck with an R8 shank would be a welcomed addition to your tooling chest. For most jobs ER collets gripping power is sufficient plus the additional benefit of having a range of 1 mm (.040") good enough for metric or imperial sizes. I don't have an R8 spindle but use one in my NT40spindle anyways and keep all my tooling whenever possible, with a straight 1" shank so that I don't have to change collets expediting tool changes. My ER40 chuck stays on most of the time. Regards Jorge

[@Abom79]

Good tips Jorge, I'll keep that in mind.

[@alphgeek]

You've taught me another great tip, the sharpie mark on the table...I always lose count of how many handle rotations I have travelled when it matters most (and we can't buy those mag back indicators easily in Australia to set a zero on the axis like you do on your lathe), the mark would show me when I am on the last turn of the handle :)

[@Abom79]

You go it! Make it a small narrow mark and you'll know your coming up to your last zero! Just remember to keep the backlash out of the screw.

[@garyc5483]

Hi. If you know anyone holidaying in the USA just get them to go into Harbour Freight and pick a couple up to bring back with them. I just had 2 Mighty Mags and a set of 20 parallels delivered by my sister in law. It was great she even got me 20% instore discount as well. There are HF's most places in the USA. No problems in customs as the price is low enough that they do not attract duty here in the UK. regards from the UK

[@garyc5483]

A tip is to epoxy glue a couple of rare earth magnets from out of old hard drives to the back of the indicator. Make sure you clean the paint off well. They stick like shxx to the proverbial blanket.

[@alphgeek]

Gary C Thanks Gary, that's such a simple solution! I'll give it a try.

[@johngalt9262]

nice job Adam....the finish line is in sight.

[@catmshtr89]

A DREAM operation. I like it. Very subtle but funny.

[@zigzag77777]

Actually need some waist level fill light as well. Another option would be more overhead light with fluorescent or led linear lighting. Great project!!!

[@connormccarter9581]

Really enjoying the project series. Keep up the good work!

[@theslimeylimey]

Something to be aware of. If anyone wants to use a coaxial indicator to check accurate hole alignment, be aware the length of the arm alters the reading like a longer arm on a finger dial does because it has to move more per unit of rotation at the pivot point. The bottom hole was probably out by double what the indicator was showing.

[@theslimeylimey]

Chris Stephens I often wondered this myself but I'm guessing they are close but not exact readings because of "trigonometry" errors through the full actuation range. Perhaps someone out there can tell us.

[@Phantomthecat]

So close now, looking forward to seeing it all working so you can move that vertical head with ease. :)

[@rickbrandt9559]

Co axial = a centring device Defining the numbers on the dial to a imperial/metric measurement number"meaning less" Still fun/enjoyable to read comments/opinions about the numbers/probes lengths. The coax locates center of spindle to the center of hole in work piece.(most common use) Advanced math may bring other uses.

[@yanwo2359]

I prefer the unfiltered image. Love this series!

[@gtmcfar]

That thing is looking so sexy! +This Old Tony may not NEED a parking attachment but after he sees yours he will WANT a parking attachment.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

That is a big job almost done. You may miss working on it after it is done. Keep on keeping on.

[@jusb1066]

then we can have another project! im sure there are ideas

[@larrysperling8801]

very nice job. i think your your 3/4 holes were much closer in alignment than your indicator showed. the long arm would have multiplied the runout of the short arm because of the difference in length. if you would have used the long arm to check both holes i'll bet they would have been close to perfect. great project.

[@ScottandTera]

looking good idea was watching the reamer running and thought man in wished my drill press would run half as true. it was 15 thou out after a new chuck and bearings I got it down to 4 though tir

[@jusb1066]

yeshe is using a vertical mill which puts any drill press to shame, slow speeds, smooth lowering of the cutting and much better accuracy.

[@ScottandTera]

oh i know but just wished that they wouyld make tools better than they do today jusb1066

[@joesteele9480]

Adam it looks to me that with the longer probe in the coax indicator your reading would be multiplied so the bottom hole was closer than the top.

[@duobob]

Vice versa. The longer arm moves farther to move the indicator the same amount.

[@PeterWMeek]

You need to rotate the CPL filter while looking at the image. At different rotational positions it will reduce reflections in different parts of the image. With your center indicator, the graduations are not thousandths. If you think about it, the needle movement will be 1/3 less with a 6" probe than with a 2" probe, so one or the other (most likely both) will not be indicating thousandths. You can check what the actual measurement is for each length of probe by aligning the probe with the X or Y axis and watching how the needle moves as you move the mill bed with the leadscrews.

[@dougbourdo2589]

Man, that was perhaps the smoothest drill job of that size I have ever seen. Is there a preferred brand of drill you like to use?

[@TheAlex11211]

Brilliant work! But is the deep surface rust bothering anyone else?

[@robertkutz]

adam , filter looks good, video cool , have fun at the bash, bring the belt home. bob

[@billdlv]

Looks good Adam, nice work.

[@BillyTpower]

"Dream" operation. I like that. so is it a "stream" op when you use a starter drill?

[@davidfe47]

Powder coat all but the NYC CNC piece to match the K & T. Use powder coat clear fot the NYC CNC piece. Bet there is a shop in town that would do for ad on your channel.

[@deemstyle]

What is the Noga part number on that 7 handle set of deburring tools? I can't seem to locate it at all. Thanks!

[@SupremeRuleroftheWorld]

the LED led is fine, the halogen is too much. i recommend putting the LED light so it is behind the camera or at least to the side, but not in front, that way you prevent the very dark parts of the video, now you cannot see the bottom hole being drilled.

[@jeremyslawncare7039]

Is there an advantage to coolant vs cutting oil when drilling or reaming? I use coolant when drilling but when I tap I use oil

[@bcbloc02]

Turning out real sweet!

[@brainsironically]

Does this build count as "machining porn?" Man, that thing fits together so sweet! Very nicely done, man.

[@baggd65]

It's turning out really nice.

[@fortbrothers9809]

that is art abom can't wait for your next project

[@arkansas1313]

Enjoying the series. ....13

[@ridragrace]

Adam what kind of oil do you use to ream brass ?

[@yellowbusguy]

Place the second brighter light low and to the side to fill in the shadowed areas rather than everything up high.

[@Jazz-km8dd]

Nice video Adam. Can't wait for more. =)

[@willemweideman3813]

What a super piece of work!!

[@suzylarry1]

first light (New) made project look Natural, second light Old larger light) made project a little white washed , bigger light was to much in this shot, I have been enjoying all of your series on this Parking arm project.

[@johnnyholland8765]

Adam, Where can you get those oilers? Do you have a source. JHolland

[@garyrhodes7089]

i think that it would have been more accurate to have used the co axle indicator with the long arm for both holes as you have a ratio of leverage change to consider

[@MartinRodriguez-yr4gf]

Since the arm on the coax is twice as long, wouldn't the value be half?

[@Darlhim89]

What type of oil do you use for drilling?

[@troyam6607]

Hey Adam I noticed the Vertex Dividing head in the background as well as your keyless chuck, whats your thoughts on the brand? we can get them here in Western Australia in the Vise setup and they are not the most expensive. Cheers Troy

[@DerpyShadowz]

I bought a complete collet set from Vertex including the holder for them. Quality was good for me, Came with a Quality inspection certificate etc. Made in Taiwan.

[@Abom79]

Troy, I am pleased with the quality of the few Vertex brand tools I have. They are made in Taiwan which to me seems to be much better quality then "China" made stuff. The supser space has always been great, and I am extremely happy with the quality of the keyless chuck. No complaints yet.

[@macro820]

Thanks Adam great work as always

[@Antto]

That deburring felt like I was at the dentist lol

[@johnc4352]

I'll bet you have more money in shop time on this parking attachment, than you paid for the whole machine ! I know the cost is not the point in this case, but guys that think they want to go into this business or customers that want to have something made should realize the actual cost of a one off part.

[@Abom79]

Yep, custom jobs like this can get very pricey, that's why it's great to have the skills to build things yourself. For me, I just enjoy doing this work in my shop so it creates a nice project, as well as youtube content to share.

[@dougankrum3328]

..customer brings in a K&T parking attachment....asks for a quote to replicate one.....well, how about $3,749.50.......?

[@johnc4352]

OR, like a good friend of mine, customer brings in parking attachment and asks how much and my friend says $350, and winds up having to share a can of cat food with his cat for dinner !

[@madmodders]

I wonder why they put the roll pin hole down there and drilled material away where the bending force on the rod is going to be the greatest, and not at the top? I wouldn't want a hole in the rod right there...

[@1jtolvey]

GREAT VIDEO !!! HAVE A BLAST AT THE " SUMMER BASH " !! YOU GOING TO COOK FOR THOSE EMACIATED CALIFORNIANS ?? :-)

[@sunppaa]

Isn't the coaxial showing in 0,01mm increments and not 0.001"? So the lineup was actually almost perfect!

[@jusb1066]

.01mm is nearly 4 thou! adam usually gets to within a thou, so a .01mm gauge isnt so useful i dont think

[@EmperorDevilhunter]

0.01mm is 0.4 thous, not 4, so it's pretty good

[@jusb1066]

hehe you are correct! good job im not a machinist or sending anything to the moon!

[@Abom79]

Ya know, I never even paid attention to the dial face if it was metric. All I do is watch the needle move between lines.

[@stephenreeves9025]

coaxial indicator is not a actual measurement device , it's more a deviation comparison device. when you change the feeler length you would have to change the dial also (it works by a fulcrum) .It is actually intended to be used under low speed and you just minimize the pointer fluxion. It's a close enough tool, unlike using a DTI in the spindle to get dead nuts on center .

[@Amati66]

Adam you are the absolute master, admire, greet :D

[@robertschmidt6383]

I'm surprised you left the rough cutting marks on it on the radius. Call me crazy but it could of have been cleaned up a bit more. Finish grinding.

[@johnleake708]

Very nice Adam..... creating parts you can no longer buy

[@JoggingWithForks]

Good stuff as always. Thanks for sharing.

[@MrWFCJR]

Why did you drill the hhole before making the pin? Wouldnt that present a problem? Am I missing something?

[@jusb1066]

you can make the pin a bit larger if you need to, when you drill, it can be slightly missharpened and drill a bigger hole, better to drill and then make the pin if you want the best fit.

[@Abom79]

I put a 5/8" hole in the parts so i could hold them easily on center in the rotary table, I mentioned in on that video.

[@jeffrawe6486]

Drilling through a diameter l would be concerned the drill may ‘wonder’ when it touches the bottom of the bore, this could cause the reamer to follow any misalignment......l would drill , bore undersize and then ream.

[@PeterWMeek]

It might be better to hand feed that reamer. At such a slow feed with that many flutes, the chip load is going to be way less than .001" per tooth. I suspect that you are "rubbing" through the hole rather than cutting. If you are making dust rather than chips, I would consider feeding quite a bit faster. (Have fun at the Bash. Wish I was going.)

[@youtubasoarus]

Beautiful work.

[@psycarbo]

next time you screw the machine and get nuts can´t wait to see that episode ;-) excellent and entertaining like always big fan!!

[@elmarqo_3448]

The attachment arm is looking sexy. You must be getting excited about it being finished. I am too.

[@Pavinsteelman]

Hi flycut the mill scale and pock marks off and make it look great . great job !

[@Spoif]

+Abom79 I've been wondering why you have made such a fantastic job on the build, but you decided to leave some of the faces pitted. Great work by the way. I've really enjoyed watching this interesting project.

[@Godshole]

I think it adds character. Making it look 'old' to match the machine :)

[@dougbourdo2589]

Size of available material. Getting rid of the pitted faces would make it smaller than desired.

[@Alaninit1]

Light looks ok lots better

[@daniel_6741]

Man I really like your videos. But I always notice youdo not really like cordless tools. Just for chamfering it always works good using a regular chamfer tool in a cordless drill. And it looks like it was machined afterwards :)