About My Fliptop Planer Stand (WnW #15)

[@jerryfrederick6610]

White Oak bushing blocks, Fantastic Idea!

[@joellaferriere9740]

I substituted bronze bushings for the hardwood block. The bushings are easier to install and the plywood will hold up. I also am using locking collars on the rod to limit deflection of the side panels outward. Good design.

[@Wordsnwood]

Both good ideas!

[@y0utubeu5ername]

Nice video. Straight to the point with no flimflam. Very clearly explained, with some great ideas. Thanks for sharing.

[@sawdust58]

Thanks for sharing. Well thought out. Like the locking device, keep things simple.

[@daviddavis5689]

Nice solution to a really small shop problem. That has assisted chip removal so you can actually use a with a 2 1/2 hose and a exit filter on container. I use 10 gal brute. Mine works as good as using my cyclone collector and is mounted under table. Really makes a moveable base tool easy to use.

[@scornthwaite]

I just acquired a planer, and was looking to make a flip top stand for it + my compound sliding mitre saw. I like how you show the parts (and confirm items like the 1/2" steel rod to cut down cost) that I've considered but not seen used elsewhere. Plus the fact your stand is so old, yet holding up extremely well for the size/weight of the items you attach to it. Very nicely done. You got another subscriber because of this.

[@Wordsnwood]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@nasarazam]

Wow ! I thought that planer weighs over 100lbs and the Miter is also pretty heavy. Super !

[@popsplinter7294]

I've looked at a few designs for this type of stand. I really like the one by Carl Holmgren, but I also like the simplicity of this unit. You went one step further in explaining the barrel latches being strong enough and that a 1/2" rod was also strong enough. Very good Vid. Thanks..

[@Wordsnwood]

Ian Edbauer You're welcome!

[@frederickwatson557]

Art, Really smart and simple design. I like what you've done again. Thanks for sharing. Long time subscriber.

[@Wordsnwood]

Thank-you.... On of my earliest videos, so I cringe a bit at the video, but it's also one of my most useful shop projects.

[@JohnUk65]

yep, the best straight forward flip top stand I've seen.. this is the one I'm going to make... thank you!!

[@kennethbroyles1841]

Great video, thank you! I've been looking for inspiration on my own cart for my planer and miter saw and this is the first vid I've seen with that particular combination. I'm considering adding wings onto the two sides though so I can add support for longer boards on the miter saw as well as infeed / outfeed support when the planer is up.

[@Wordsnwood]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Sebastopolmark]

Thanks for taking the time to explain and break down your stand. 7 years old - say no more!! This IS the design to use. I am going to make a miter saw station and now I am going to make the cart so it can simply roll into the station and pull out if I need to use the planer. Thanks again I like the drawer on the bottom tooooo.

[@Wordsnwood]

+Sebastopolmark thanks, Mark

[@woodsniffer]

Thanks for the Tour. that was shrot simple and Accurate.

[@jackdotzman2908]

Great video, thanks for sharing. I got some good ideas on how to build my cart, like yours, for the same equipment. From Missouri

[@tsuchang1]

Very nice cart. Thanks for the tour.

[@Wordsnwood]

thanks, Stephen!

[@rossrichardson7072]

I used 1 inch conduit pipe for mine. drilled through both sides at once. super strong.

[@Wordsnwood]

Great to hear. There's usually more than one way to build things.

[@wutang7992]

Absolutely impressive and ingenious design. This will be my next project! You are the MAN!

[@Wordsnwood]

Wu Tang thank-you.

[@MrRenoman2011]

Great build thanks

[@1stFlyingeagle]

Excellent build. One point I see. Could take and make axel longer and make end stick out just enough to put on push on cap nuts. Now the end walls could never spread apart. Just an idea. Again great build. - Bob Sieburg

[@joellaferriere9740]

After using it for a month. I think the bronze bearing and collar lock may be unnecessary. The old belt and suspenders approach. Thanks for the tip on orienting t the planer, I have the same model.

[@royallhawaii]

OK, you convinced me... I downloaded the plans last night. Nice looking plans with a good materials list. Now the hard part, searching the shop from top to bottom to find the casters I just know I have in there somewhere!

[@royallhawaii]

OK!! Got the cart built and the tools mounted. I did make couple of changes.. I was just a little concerned about the shaft just floating in the pivot blocks. What I ended up doing was drilling and tapping 1/4x20 threads about 5/8" deep in both ends of the rod (by the way, used a 1/2" aluminum rod... had it on hand) and then using a 7/8" forstner bit cut a recess in the pivot block from the opposite side from the shaft. I left about 1/4" of material between the 7/8" and the 3/4" holes... and then run the 1/4x20 bolt with a flat washer to bring the sides into where the blocks just touched the table. Works good! Another thing I did different.. I didn't have a bullnose the size needed for the router to inlay the shaft. I ended up using a "V" bit ? Like a chamfering bit without a guide bearing... anyway, cut it in both side equally and stop just so there is some interference between the wood and the shaft. Works good.... so far!! LOL Just need to make the drawer and it'll be finished!! Thanks for some great plans Art!!

[@Wordsnwood]

Good to hear... That was a quick build!

[@royallhawaii]

Yeah, when I get some spare time and a plan, I get into it. I did make one more change today. I took the barrel latches off. I didn't like the way they fit. Instead, I used a 3/8" brad point bit and made a 3" hole through the side of the cabinet, into the table at each corner. I used 3/8" dowel rod 4" long to push into each of the 4 holes. I then flipped the top over and did it the same process again but towards the pivot one inch. I added the second set of hole because I knew the first holes wouldn't line up perfect once the table went over. I added a 1 3/4" square piece of 3/4" plywood with a 3/8" hole to the dowel with glue and a 1" brad. This makes the pins easier to pull when flipping the top.... Fun project!

[@Bbendfender]

Another great design.

[@patriciayoung6593]

LOVE IT

[@buckrogers6665]

Bought the plans and built it per plan. Plans are thorough and complete. However, the plans need to stress how important vertical supports are to maintaining the side to side tolerance. Without them, during the build phase, the vertical sides are pretty wobbly.. I built the original, no drawer, version because I wanted the lower structure to improve rigidity. I still might add an embedded 1/4-20 nut a bolt with a knob can be used to pull the sides tight to the platform.

[@royallhawaii]

I like your ideas on flip stands. I've been looking for the one to copy for my shop and like yours very much. So often woodworkers tend to "over" build. My planer isn't as heavy as that model DeWalt so you system should work for me just fine!

[@daviddavis5689]

With my fan assisted planer I just use a vented container under neither so as no dust collector is needed. Also on mobile carts 4 inch hose is too bulky. Roll the stand into position plug in planer and go; which I like.

[@guyh.4553]

Like the blocks for the flip top!

[@FlushtheSystem]

WOW Awesome! Thanks

[@liquidlen9391]

Perfect for a small shop, good job

[@Wordsnwood]

thank-you! It has served me well for 7+ years.

[@flamabl1]

Lol, so simple it made me smile. Thank you so much for sharing.

[@Lapeerphoto]

Very Nice! Well done.

[@bobair47]

Nice job explaining your build, I wanted to make one forever as i have a planer and chop saw moved from place to place and never set up right. i will make one and use your ideas thank you.

[@Wordsnwood]

bobair47 thank-you, hope it works well for you!

[@SteveStaples16]

Love your design easy to make much better then other ones I seen thank you for sharing Regards Steve UK

[@kestrelpat]

Been looking for a simple but workable fliptop stand, this fits the bill. Thanks

[@Wordsnwood]

kestrelpat thank-you!

[@iwu2011]

Awesome. I will be copying!

[@jackmaravola2496]

Another great build Art.

[@howtofixitworkshop]

Very good space saver. Do you have any portable out feed tables for the planer or side support tables for the miter saw? That's something i have struggled with.

[@Wordsnwood]

Unfortunately not. My shop is only about 11x23. I actually rarely use the miter saw. I tend to use the crosscut sled on my tablesaw more. As for planing I just feed them in by hand and then walk around and catch...

[@howtofixitworkshop]

Ok, thanks.

[@molliesdad4702]

Great presentation Art. I have one question about cabinet. Can you provide a short explanation about the likely hood of the two sides separating? The only connection at the top is the rod on the shelf but I didn't see anything that could prevent the separation that I mentioned. Thanks for a great project.

[@Wordsnwood]

That's what I worried about Paul and that's why I added the little L-shaped "wings" (?) on the sides. They still wiggle a bit, but it's been 10 years for me and the stand is still seeing regular use and it's never come apart. Before I built mine I looked around and saw a lot of people doubling up the sides on their stands and I suspect that is part of why they did that.

[@Dave51262]

Great idea and nice clear explanation in your video. Thanks.

[@Wordsnwood]

Thanks, Dave!

[@crackerjack3359]

Thanks for you great video. I'm going to use your idea for a miter saw bench that needs to fit under another bench. I am therefore going to drop the swivel further down the sides at a distance equal to the thickness of the saw base. The top of the base will be level with the top of the cabinet when swiveled up. I will attached hinged side plates to the top of the cabinet which will be flush with the top of the base when extended out. I do not have a use for the underside of the swivel but I'm thinking of it. If nothing else, then the dust pan and brush ..... or may be .....

[@Wordsnwood]

Sounds good!

[@derekrowlands1189]

Very impressive.

[@theweepinghunter]

briil vid love the 90 degree clamp

[@LuisFDeAguiar]

Simple and functional!great

[@longdriver2]

Nice job. I like it!

[@TMS5100]

brilliant!

[@reilthultha69]

Good work take care

[@DavidMaihofer]

Do you have sonf rudimentary plans, available, you just mentioned them, what is your website? Love this idea, cheap enough to look at! Thanks

[@Wordsnwood]

www.wordsnwood.com/plans/ This is in the video description...

[@patriciayoung6593]

I JUST START MAKING ONE IT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE YOURS AWESOME JOB DONE

[@BruceAUlrich]

It's a really cool stand!

[@Wordsnwood]

+Bruce A. Ulrich Thanks, Bruce! Works really well in my shop.

[@jiml5274]

Nice design and build Art. I'm curious as to whether the rod is epoxied into the swinging platforms round groove or if it is free floating through it. Keep up the enjoyable projects.

[@Wordsnwood]

It's clamped pretty firmly between the two pieces of plywood. It's not free floating, but it's not epoxied either.

[@jiml5274]

Thank's Art. Explaining that helps.

[@TokyoCraftsman]

Well what do you know, I'm looking to build one of these stands to hold my planer and my new to me drum sander, I go and look on the web for some ideas, and looky there my buddy Art's video pops up! Great design, I'll been using some of your ideas! Cheers!

[@lynardburt5992]

Nice build

[@Wordsnwood]

??? There is a link to the plans in the video description www.wordsnwood.com/plans/fliptop/

[@Barittgers]

Very cool

[@Wordsnwood]

Thank-you!

[@aktbird]

I bought your plans & built 1 of these fliptop tables. Liked it so well I'm building a 2nd one now. First one without drawer 2nd one with. I'd build a 3rd if I thought I could get away with adding about 3 inches in height to the sides (I have a drill press & 10" band saw). Do you think this would be feasible?

[@Wordsnwood]

+Andrew Thomson A drill press is a pretty top-heavy item... I'd be wary of flipping it over and how that would work.

[@trolltaker]

Art, I bought your plans last night and was wondering if you think there is any advantage of using the 1/2 router bit you used to create a round hole for the rod versus simply making a 1/2" dado for it to ride in?

[@Wordsnwood]

+trolltaker There are many ways to approach a problem... Your idea would probably work, but you're not gripping the rod as much. Might feel a bit loose? It'd probably work, but I like my way. If it's any help, I'm just using a fairly inexpensive router bit set from a wood show. something like this one: amzn.to/1QW42a0 You don't need to buy a hugely expensive set.

[@trolltaker]

+Wordsnwood (Art Mulder) Yeah, you hit on the issue.., I just don't see a lot of use for that bit after this project. Does the rod turn inside of the top, or just in the bearing blocks?

[@Wordsnwood]

+trolltaker It turns in the bearing blocks.

[@trolltaker]

+Wordsnwood (Art Mulder) Got started tonight. I might suggest that the backside side braces and bottom braces be pocket-screwed together before assembling to the rest of the cabinet. I found that my drill was not able to get enough clearance to drive the screws. Make the full "U" first, then attach it.

[@Wordsnwood]

+trolltaker that'll work. I probably just screwed it by hand.

[@shineriseliu7104]

Without a backing board, I can see the stand is a bit wobbling when the flip top is fully loaded with two machines.

[@damiancurtis2023]

Hi I have a question about the planer itself, I am a beginner at woodwork and I am looking for a planer. I did buy one but it gave me to much snipe , and that was with any size board, didn't matter if it was 20cm or 2 metres long, it also had what looked like track marks down the face of the boards. Since this problem I have been looking at the deWalt Thicknesser, your expertise would be of great help, thanks Damian

[@Wordsnwood]

+Damian Curtis track marks down the face could be knicks in the blades (if they are raised skinny marks). Or it could be from the rollers. I started with an ancient Ryobi 10" planer, which I had for about 10 years or more, before buying this one. So I have not really used a lot of different planers. I'm pretty happy with the DeWalt. I still can get a little bit of snipe, but not a huge amount. People who buy the extension tables have reported less snipe. I tend to just allow for snipe by making sure that my boards are 4" longer on each end. (Unless it is for a project where it doesn't matter.)

[@unclefatnslim9789]

Great Idea...tnx

[@JoshNAmy2010]

Great video ! I'm going to start building this soon. I'm having a tough time finding that router bit needed for the steel rod- can you provide a name or link?? Thanks!

[@Wordsnwood]

JoshNAmy2010 It's called a core box bit. Here is one: www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30169&cat=1,46168,46173&ap=1 You can probably find it many places.

[@gautammalhotramd]

@@Wordsnwood I was interested in the same thing. On your wordsnwood website "story of a stand" you said "I made the groove in the two top pieces using a 1/2" roundover bit in my router. I picked up this idea from a ww'ing forum" which confused me. The core box bit makes sense.

[@Wordsnwood]

@@gautammalhotramd Thank-you, I have corrected that web page to say "core box router bit"

[@gautammalhotramd]

@@Wordsnwood Thanks for the quick turnaround and thank you for your unique brand of videos that continue to inspire this hobbyist to try new things.

[@SteveStaples16]

Hi The bar that run though the top then in to oak side was it studding or just bar Regards Steve UK

[@Wordsnwood]

+SteveStaples16 I don't know what you mean by "studding". It was just a smooth cylindrical bar.

[@priayief]

I'm wondering if those latches might get a little worn after using for a while?

[@Wordsnwood]

considering that I built this 10 years ago, I'd say the answer is not much. (I could always drill out the hole, glue in a dowel, and then redrill a more snug hole.) But if you'd prefer a different latch go ahead. I just used what I had at hand, there are lots of ways to do this. Have fun with it!

[@marcelobustos966]

thanks

[@Shopwolfe]

THANK YOU! Wonderful ideas!

[@steveoshaughnessy3736]

I noticed on one side the reinforcing strips are mitered, but on the other they're butt joined. Is there a reason for this or did you just decide the butt join was easier?

[@Wordsnwood]

Actually they're butt-joined on both sides. However, I mitered the Veneer Edge banding that is on the top edge of the stand. Because I'm sneaky like that... :-)

[@ianoconnor1]

What size screws did you use for the construction?

[@Wordsnwood]

probably 1-1/4 or 1-1/2"

[@brianharris35]

What size is your mitre saw please ?

[@Wordsnwood]

DeWalt DW703 Compound Miter Saw

[@Belg1970]

Couple of really good point s learned. If you want to eliminate that little bit of flex you could ad a couple curved braces in the corners, glued and kreg screwed in place. Now that you have the drawer in place you might not want that hardware to move. I saw that in another video build. This is a pic of the idea.s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/8a/79/43/8a7943ecabe215ca2b44d14a835f00a0.jpg

[@Robocoppat]

Pat M I just clicked on the link and that's a perfect planned cart. I like the shelves especially. Any idea where I can get the plans for that cart.

[@andrwoo]

Hi. Found the plans. Here they are woodarchivist.com/3927-flip-top-tool-stand-plans/

[@ronkoiles1276]

I would like to get the plans. But can not find a way to do that. I am pretty new to the computer world. Any help would be appreciated . . . Thanks

[@Wordsnwood]

+Ron Koiles Plans available here: www.wordsnwood.com/plans/fliptop/ The project web page is here, with some more details: www.wordsnwood.com/2015/fliptop/

[@dickhulick4982]

I bought your plans, but I did not find a Bill of Materials. Please advise.

[@Wordsnwood]

+Dick Hulick The file "parts.pdf" is part of the zip file. Please check again. If you have further questions please use email.

[@Wordsnwood]

Join our team! www.patreon.com/wordsnwood ----- ----- ----- A tour of my fliptop planer stand, during which I tear it down and add a storage drawer in the base. The DeWALT dw735 is a very large planer. Most planers are more rectangular shaped. The dewalt is shorter and more squat, but also much more square in shape. This means that I needed a much larger stand than I would for another planer. If you can't spare that kind of shop space, maybe you should consider building a fliptop workstation. This will allow you to store (and USE!) two tools in the same space as one. Even better, one sheet of plywood will provide almost all the materials you need to build this project. More information on my web page: www.wordsnwood.com/2015/fliptop/ PLANS are also available: www.wordsnwood.com/plans/fliptop/ Follow me on Social Media: facebook.com/wordsnwood instagram.com/words.n.wood ----- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- Some of the tools/supplies used in the video (Amazon Affiliate Links): amzn.to/2aSUOdQ - DeWalt DW703 Compound Miter Saw amzn.to/2bpMmkX - DeWalt DW735 Planer amzn.to/2beSIY6 - 3rd party blades for DW735 amzn.to/1jlCETB - Hitachi Compact 10.8V Kits: amzn.to/1OzXo6G - core box router bits (Not a link to a specific brand) GEAR I USE TO MAKE VIDEO: amzn.to/1qPkvBp - Canon T5i amzn.to/2aK7jZX - Inexpensive Quick Release tripod ball head (Very useful) amzn.to/1SSwOmS - Sony Action Cam. (I use the HDR-AS15 which is discontinued -- cheaper than a gopro.) amzn.to/267XM3M - Sony Live View video remote for Action Cam amzn.to/1XC2D7l - Joby GorillaPod (Flexible small tripod) ----- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- Many more Woodworking Projects at: www.wordsnwood.com/ Check out my woodworking plans: wordsnwood.com/plans/ Music: audionautix.com/

I do NOT sub to idiots who think everyone wants to listen to their crap music. I come to watch and LEARN from the woodworker, not to be entertained. Learn how to talk, and turn off the crap.

[@awjaaa]

Bye, Felicia.