Acoustic Guitar String Gauges - Sound Pure Gear Tip

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In this video, Sound Pure Acoustic Guitar specialist Barrett Brooks answers questions and provides some insight on string gauge for acoustic guitars.
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[@jimmy5634]

I like Extra Light Ernie Ball 10-14-20-28-40-50 ‘s on my D18 when I play plugged in. I can EQ on my amp to get where I want the tone to be and it’s so much easier to play a 3 hour gig.

[@Doowopsid]

Thank you for a very informative and helpful explanation of the string gauge differences. Great job!

[@derwolf9670]

good video but the music is very distracting and too loud

[@wiwiksundari8668]

Nice video, thank you Sir. *sorryfor my English. I have a 2005 Epiphone dreadnought 25.5" scale & non-ladder bracing with ebony pins & bone saddle + nut.. I loves jingle jangle/'60s chimey with a bit mellow attack acoustic sounds (with enough volume & sustain and with not too much tension). 11s gauge Aluminium Bronze from the Ernie Ball & 11s 80/20 brass uncoated from D'Addario/Martin Originals & Martin Retro Monels 11s, they are my top three acoustic strings for my humble Korean acoustic guitar

[@Doowopsid]

What are your thoughts about the Martin 12.5-55’s on a dreadnought?

[@dontknowy]

in my opinion the strings gauges is depende on the weight of your guitar the heavy the guitar it needs high gauge to vibrate it, the guitar will choose the strings gauges

[@charleshill9649]

Heard two camps of thought in past regarding mediums .13 - .56 on dreadnaught. First being "it's made for that, Tony played them". Second "they'll eventually blow up the top & saddle, you'll need a neck reset". Barrett, can you comment based on your experience?

[@sc12100]

Im not Barrett but here's my opinions on this. 13s in the long run, can cause the top to have deflection, or a "belly", but its really improper RH that will speed this up more so than the size 13 strings. If the guitar is kept at a constant 45-55% RH, it will be decades before you need a neck reset (given the neck angle was installed correctly) - even when using 13s. I know guys that have had 20 year old Martins that only use 13s and have never had a neck reset. So it really depends on if the guitar is properly humidified and how well those top braces counter act the tension. I used 13s on all my Martin and SCGC dreads for 20+ years. The stiffness never bothered me but on some guitars, the volume and sustain was too much, and it overdrive'd and distorted the tone. I use 12s on all my dreads now and I find it to be the perfect balance when it comes to tone, volume, and sustain.

[@the_nondrive_side]

Body size says little. Scale length and overall design. Small body can take tension. Short scales need heavier gauge to make up tension.. I just got a 25.5" NEX I've got some extremely light strings on.

[@reflection1119]

Is mixing guages on a dreadnought a bad idea? I have DR 12s on a Guild dreadnought. The eBG seem a little too bright. I'd want to make them warmer. Also I sometimes tune the G to G# with a 50-50 chance of breakage (and a painful whip from time to time). Would using 13s on eBG strings help?

[@reflection1119]

Of course, I could just go 13s all the way, but I'm also trying to avoid the need for the extra setup :D

[@lo-filogic]

@@reflection1119 For as far as I know it shouldn't cause any problems

[@sirbaguette8378]

That should help. The only downside I can think of to 13s is playability. There's a noticeable difference on how it feels and pressure needed to play between 12s and 13s so it could affect your tapping/solos/bends. Tho other than that, 13s all the way

[@DougHinVA]

Just use this as a rough guide... every acoustic has a certain string set that is best for it, so you have to limit it to the gauge you can manage. I like 11-52 on a guild A/E, as a nail player... but you may want 12-54 as a bluegrass strummer on a Martin. The 'toughen up your fingertips' argument is bullying. Get the string set that sounds best and feels right to YOU on a certain guitar... AFTER the guitar is set up to play as best possible... and a setup pro can do that.

[@LegsON]

Thicker strings also provide 4 better intonation.

[@sc12100]

Not true. That has to do with the guitar itself. Not the size of the strings. Intonation has to due with the scale length, string action, and compensation with either the nut or saddle, on that specific guitar. String sizes dont effect this. If they did, you'd only see one or two sizes only.

[@LegsON]

@@sc12100 Thicker string affect intonation seriously. Talk to any competent guitar tech about saddle adjustments required when switching the gauge of the strings. Actually, thinner strings have better intonation when fretting.

[@sc12100]

@@LegsON so - how do you measure intonation? How do you know when your intonation is right?

[@LegsON]

@@sc12100 Fret at 12th fret and compare that to an open string.

[@sc12100]

@@LegsON Exactly......... So if I get the same intonation readings on my tuner while fretting the 12th fret, using thinner and thicker strings..........where's the difference? Intonation has to do with the guitar itself, not the strings.

[@GreyhoundHank86]

Thicker strings are best for low tunings, aren't they?

[@thedillestpickle]

I haven't tested that but it would make sense yes.

[@LemonMeIon]

Yes I like special light for finger picking in standard, and medium for DADGAD or lower. The extra tension from the heavier string gauge holds the tuning better and avoids low-end flabbiness.

[@GreyhoundHank86]

@@LemonMeIon same thing

[@awesomexistence]

Approx 50-60 percent more torque from medium gauge vs light gauge strings. Saddle and top will eventually succomb to this extra stress.

[@sc12100]

Thats not true at all. Light gauged strings are only about 15lbs less when it comes to tension compared to 13s. I know guys who've used only 13s on their guitars for 20+ years, and have never had a neck reset. Im sorry, but your 50-60 more torque comment is complete misinformation and I dont know how you came out with that.

[@awesomexistence]

@@sc12100, I will direct you to this chart and correct my statement to 40% from extra lights to mediums and this will vary a slight bit depending on string type. I was relying on memory on percentages however experience of repairs and installing many Bridge Doctors qualifies my statement “eventually succomb to this extra stress”. Do you want 30-40 pounds extra torque pulling your acoustic top? www.elixirstrings.com/support/string-tension-for-tuning-guitar images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=AwrJ4NaUoBpgJZIAnbiLnIlQ;_ylu=c2VjA2ZwLXRodW1icwRzbGsDaW1nBG9pZAM4NTY4M2Y4N2QwNTRiNjhlNzNhMjI5NmU1MTNhZWQzMwRncG9zAzIEaXQDYmluZw--?back=https%3A%2F%2Fsearch.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%3Fp%3Dmartin%2Bguitar%2Bstring%2Btension%2Bchart%26ei%3DUTF-8&w=700&h=696&imgurl=www.martinguitar.com%2Fmedia%2F9866%2Fbluegauge3.png%3Fwidth%3D700&rurl=https%3A%2F%2Fumgf.com%2Fnew-authentic-acoustic-strings-merged-threads-t194613-s40.html&size=86.6KB&p=martin+guitar+string+tension+chart&oid=85683f87d054b68e73a2296e513aed33&fr2=&fr=ipad&tt=New+Authentic+Acoustic+Strings+%28merged+threads%29+-+Page+3+...&b=0&ni=108&no=2&ts=&tab=organic&sigr=K9wL1Oq4PFGI&sigb=5UxDzezrpTit&sigi=zxy1ip6.561L&sigt=.18UoiAHW87J&.crumb=erftPFARofE&fr=ipad From my repair experience, most acoustics will eventually “belly” from the added tension.

[@sc12100]

@@awesomexistence I didnt know you were talking about "extra" lights. That makes more sense now. Yeah, extra lights on a dreadnought should be against the law. Dreadnoughts are designed for heavier tension. They need it to be able to vibrate the top more. If you go to the UMGF or any bluegrass forum, and you tell those members to use extra lights, they will laugh at you. Mediums wont destroy your instrument. Improper humidity will.

[@LorenzoC1980]

What did you say? Can't hear you.

[@the_nondrive_side]

Body size says little. Scale length and overall design. Small body can take tension. Short scales need heavier gauge to make up tension.. I just got a 25.5" NEX I've got some extremely light strings on.

[@thedillestpickle]

How light? I am considering putting 10's on my accoustic but I think the Truss rod won't actually adjust the action that far so it may not work out.

[@the_nondrive_side]

@@thedillestpickle if your truss rod needs adjustment your guitar is junk. A bunch of 10-46/48 sets are available with a wound 3rd. I've got D'Addario Chromed.. Ecg23. Exl110w are the nickelwound.. Should just work. If your neck moves your guitar is junk. I've switched between 12-52 back to 10-46 and everything in between without touching the setup. The key is the wound 3rd if that's what your bridge dictates.. Also.. You'll be loosening the truss rod if anything to go lighter..

[@thedillestpickle]

@@the_nondrive_side The lighter strings puts less tension on the neck and this makes the action go too low. I guess I should just toss my guitar to the curb since according to you it is "junk" even though it sounds great and plays great.

[@the_nondrive_side]

@@thedillestpickle if you can fix it. That's better. Being butthurt isn't a solution.. Of my current group not a single one needs to ever be touched. I've had wonky necks. Broken truss rods the whole deal. If your neck is stable and sounds good then it is good. A 10-46 set is like 120lbs tension. A 12-52 set closer to 160lbs. Reducing tension shouldn't be a problem. If it is.. Yeah your guitar is junk. That's a bunch of conditions you hopefully don't have to deal with.