Adam Ondra #11: The new-school bouldering!

This episode is a deeper insight into what the modern bouldering is all about. Get ready for some cool old-school footage while I am talking about the history of bouldering (thanks Chris Sharma and Udo Neumann), a lot of modern dynos in various climbing gyms, as well as an explanation of why I still climb a lot of old-school crimpy boulder problems anyway.
Credits:
Archive Material
L'APPEL DES CIMES - 1946 FILM BY ALAIN POL ()
UIAA BOULDERING WORLDCUP MUNICH 2001 - BY UDO NEUMANN
PICTURE OF RON KAUK BY DON ENDICOTT (CC BY-SA 2.0)
Thanks for lending a 16mm film projector to
PETR KAČÍREK
Camera
PAVEL KLEMENT
MARTIN KAŇŮREK
LUKÁŠ BÍBA
ADAM LIGOCKI
Post Production
ADAM LIGOCKI
Executive producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK
Thumbnail Picture
LUKÁŠ BÍBA
© 2019 AO Production s.r.o.

[@regisportalez]

4:36 "There is no training facility in the world that would entertain me for more than three days." Damn.

[@marcgiol541]

That epic chris sharma footage felt so old haha

[@stefanzahariou5028]

Seriously, Adam is the smartest climber, not neccesarily the strongest, and that's why he's the best all round climber. He thinks outside the box to improve himself and if you watch him closely and listen to him, you will learn a lot from him. Thank you Adam for the videos, keep it up.

[@jordan9397]

Just curious, if he's not the strongest, who is?

[@Lrobert152]

Jordan LeGrand I think he means physically strongest

[@shinrarango]

@@jordan9397 Adam's only a year older than Megos lol

[@babsds0]

@@abelanc1090 Not to disregard the fact that Ondra is one of the best climbers in terms of technique, but Jan Hojer is weaker than guys like Ondra and Megos, when you compare finger strength, which matters a lot more than pure power.

[@willowsticks]

Such good insight into something not considered by most. It is interesting to see how spectator mentality is able to change sports.

[@thlee3]

Willowsticks money

[@thewateringwiz7118]

Pretty sad thing, not a big fan of those big dynamic moves

[@JorikD]

For now this is okay, I like doing dynamic moves myself. But I can see this going the wrong way. With snowboarding for example, the pushing of the sport in this direction has made the jumps so extreme, it's life threatening. Eventually we will see climbers with more and more injuries if the boulderproblems get too extreme. Hope this won't happen though!

[@juhanikuronen6944]

I'm sure Magnus' gym in Oslo can entertain you for a while. Probably takes couple of days to shoot through everything there. And I'm sure it would be most entertaining for us too! :)

[@joepone1234]

That Boulder area is really smal man

[@juhanikuronen6944]

@@joepone1234 boulder + lead routes

[@kieransharpe95]

isnt there a video of Magnus sending all the boulder problems in one day lol

[@juhanikuronen6944]

@@kieransharpe95 He has two videos of 100 boulder session. First time the session took over 9 hours and second time I didn't find how long it took him.

[@Filifow]

There are lot of boulders but the grade is too low to challenge Adam. It does not make sense for a commercial facility to build boulders which only couple of people on earth can climb.

[@PatchworkPS]

If that doesn't make you root for the guy, then nothing will. Amazing vid!

[@waylandsmith8666]

This is a very informative video and explains clearly how the 'modern' bouldering style is much more interesting for spectators. The downside is that its resemblance to most actual climbing outdoors seems to be sketchy at best. Personally I would rather see Adam pushing the boundaries of what human beings can climb ( as he did with 'Move', 'Change', 'Silence', and 'La Dura Dura'), or else traveling the world putting up new routes and sending hard challenges in the 9a/9b zone, as he has been doing for the last couple of years, than preparing for this rather artificial form of competition. I think the world needs Adam as a climbing pioneer more than it needs another 'gymnast'. But of course it's Adam's life, not mine.

[@PeterLE2]

I feel a little sad that there are almost no more classic boulder moves in competitions. But I think that this will change in the future. In my opinion the "modern" dynamic problems are just a trend. It's the new hot shit out there ans everyone wants to be part of it. I guess that people are afraid of being oldfashioned. For me it gets boring to see the climbers just jump all the time. I also find it quiet satisfying when a boulder that seemed to be impossible becomes quiet doable just because you shift your feet somewhat and twist the hip a little. Those nuances are an important part of bouldering for me. Way more than all those jumps. I hope that when the hype about the dynamic moves slows down and climbing became a regular part of the olympic games we will have more balanced competitions with hard moves on tiny holds, crazy jumps, running, balance problems, movements that I could not imagine being possible and much more.

[@lubomir93x]

I'd love to see an old fashioned boulder problem during the Olympics, imagine the frustration of those who prepared for ninja stunts. It will be glorious :D

[@Aramánnar]

Im with you men, i prefer technique climbing than this dynamic jumps. The things that is cool for others its bored for me, thats why i dont like the competitions now a days. But in 2019 i think they made a crack boulder in the final than nobody did it, only Adam, and he did it like very easy at his first try xD The others was like begginers climbers on it. And after Adam said than the boulder was easy xD I think that whats makes you a great climber its the capacity of onsighting or flashing hard outdoor routes for your grade, and doing hard outdoor boulders. And be able to do boulders and routes that is in detrimental for your kind of climbing or body type. In my case indoor its just for training and enyoing sometimes doing boulders and traverses, but i never put an harness indoor. And always need to be similar than the rock.

[@Yaimdan]

It hasn't changed. The current comp boulders are horrible parkour routes.

[@mathjoker]

Adam I love how much you think about climbing and your approach to improving for the Olympics. After climbing I think you'll have a great career writing or commentating or coaching or anything that involves clear and precise communication. Great video along with the video on the Olympic climbing format.

[@Robert_McGarry_Poems]

You are definitely getting better at the dynamic stuff. Thanks for sharing.

[@robertnewell4054]

The addition of Parkour style movement might be good entertainment but is just an additional step away from moving on REAL ROCK

[@disgruntledwookie369]

So what? Rock climbing still exists, it will always exist. Why are people acting like this is the death of "real climbing"? We can have more than 1 sport you know

[@robertnewell4054]

@James White ...... A very legitimate point. With it also comes a new sporting culture; including rules, names & motivation. Perhaps I’m an Old Tiger lamenting the passing of a culture built around Freedom of the Hills, while you Young Turks are creating something more urban & convenient. The Passing of the Guard is after all a time honored climbing tradition

[@michaeldillman1660]

He has such a positive and inspiring attitude, I love it!

[@96chomp]

You have to come to the Berta Block Boulderhall in Berlin, the route setters here set very often nice and hard dynamic routes

[@MarcusCremades]

I'm following you since you went to La Resistencia, thanks for inspiring me

[@石山隆-w5r]

Adam, thank you for the shocking and niece video all the time! Midnight lighting, Itook 3days! 40?years ago✋

[@arthurprior4638]

Nice to see some footage from your recent visit to Nuremberg! Was an unexpected pleasure to see you filming there on a quiet Sunday morning.

[@CGagnon5]

I'm watching this event in the Olympics exclusively to see if the greatest climber to ever live will win. Go Adam! 🧗‍♂️

[@tekrunner987]

Watching Janja should be pretty cool too.

[@mathjoker]

Adam is amazing overall (outdoor and indoor) but Janja is in another league when it comes to indoor bouldering.

[@CGagnon5]

that is an absurd statement. I would eat my climbing shoe if she could finish one of the men's problems. Yes she is a great woman climber but she is not better than Adam. Not even close @@mathjoker

[@tekrunner987]

@@CGagnon5 I think that he means she's in another league compared to other women. At least that's what I'd say myself. I'm sure female climbers can't compare to males on problems requiring a lot of strength, but I do wonder how they'd do on the ones that are more about flexibility, coordination and precision.

[@CGagnon5]

tekrunner987 he edited his comment after my reply. It originally said he thought she was better than Adam.

[@climberdad]

Great vid! Thanks for the old, old footage to show how long bouldering has been around

[@lmnts556]

Cant wait to see you do more comps/outside routes in the future Adam, Great stuff!

[@d3la]

Nice!!! Thanks for another piece of your time!!! Greetings from Spain!

[@thlee3]

This was really amazingly put together vid!!

[@armandoeguia5970]

Nice video, really cool Adam is adapting to this completely different way of climbing, which is getting really far away of what climbing in a natural rock is. I was hoping Adam would let us know in this video why he didn’t participate in the last Bouldering IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing 2019

[@BobMarley-vl5gl]

Armando Eguia it’s because of travel and how much effort it is

[@BriBoyVidz]

Armando Eguia He was sick

[@paulkennedy8095]

Great insight. Cant get enough of this series!

[@BIOMISFIT]

Really great video! And I love the insights you've shared. Climbing in general is relatively new in my place but I had the privilege of being around old school climbers and majority of our boulder problem consists of small holds(we don't have volume holds xD) and I kinda prefer those crimpy stuff. I agree that for competitive bouldering those dynamic moves offer great entertainment. And his point on those new dynamic moves that lean towards body coordination more than power are something to consider. I prefer the old school approach to bouldering because I love the outdoors and it's rare to find boulder outdoors that require big dynamic moves resembling parkour. And majority of what I encounter while doing bouldering outdoors requires me to do static moves coupled with a few power move thus finger strength or power in general is my focus primarily. At the end of the day whether you're more inclined to modern bouldering or old school as long as you're having fun.

[@eric752]

Nice work Adam, thank u

[@GarrettEderer]

Informative! Thanks. I was outside looking for trees to climb today haha

[@federicoezequielmackin]

in the end..... it's all about what Adam says... "I enjoy it a lot". Remember. It is all about this. Enjoying and having fun.

[@lvl27_cubone96]

I couldn't even imagine being so integrated into the sport that you cycle several gyms a week to get more miles of routesetting. That's incredible.

[@danballarin]

I guess I'll get ready to see more dynamic bouldering at my gym this week... We had a few forced handcracks (which I enjoyed) a few weeks ago, so these videos are setting trends.

[@EGbean2]

We might go to the same gym

[@amamamauheuesauce7325]

He‘s such a inspiration! 😭❤️

[@nedflanders7352]

So excited for you... climb smart, climb hard.

[@bboydreem]

love your videos! Good luck training!

[@Terrahpin]

Sad not to see you in changqing last weekend. Get better soon!

[@bercast40]

Can' find the last Dnb song despite google searches of the song list, did anyone find it ?

[@henkispenk]

i like your drum and bass dude

[@noambrecin4394]

It's why i prefer lead climbing because you got less dynamique move it's more static it's 1 reason with much more =D

[@niklaswagner3050]

Very interesting Video!

[@RicardoRocco90]

this video is brilliant!!

[@icekristall1700]

2:48 is this a picture of E4 in Nürnberg Germany? :D

[@icekristall1700]

yes I remember that boulder, greetings from there

[@superman242242]

Love the explanation !

[@SquiPiuPiu]

After competition, I become your fan.

[@G3m1n1MTNs]

Do you think the same thing has or will happen to indoor route climbing or do you find this to be sort of unique to bouldering?

[@personne7177]

hello Adam, very good vidéo .

[@KelvinClimber]

that's a thing i dislike about about comp climbing, the fact that route setters set more spectator friendly boulders then is needed, but then again who dosen't like a cool dyno sequence xD but there is not to leave out the fact that there still pops up an more crimpy power route from time to time or slopy power route, it's for sure a good thing to be as varied as possibol as a comp climber

[@tylerhani7665]

I got a climbing gym near me and they change the holds every month. Its very nice and clean with some cool problems. Its called the riviter

[@andyseverance1519]

3:48 "I want to be as complex as possible" Translation: After that crack boulder in Meiringen, I'm training EVERYTHING!

[@EGbean2]

Nice memory. If you train crack climbs, you can impress anyone who hasn't. That's how I won my first dog in a climbing bet

[@19owl]

Awesome video!

[@thlee3]

I loved the history lesson

[@francescomonini8882]

So at Tokyo we can expect that boulder 1st place is going to Japan

[@slamacowmd7030]

Cool and interesting to watch! French 19 years old viewver

[@taichichuansilat7772]

Quien abre los bloques para esta clase de supermutantes??

[@thinkngskeptic]

New and improved. Now with 100% more injuries!

[@slamacowmd7030]

So well resumise!

[@willardong3238]

*Random The last song is so hype.. i feel like jumping to a wall from my bed... Crazy good.. Anyone pls tell me where to find their music! (Cant find on spotify nor youtube btw) Gotta use it for my next session in gym!

[@norbertrosiak2868]

The time is right George Stephenson & Sonny Hudson & Lady Blaze

[@paulmYYC]

@@norbertrosiak2868 Thanks!

[@henarki]

Midtbø vs Ondra social competitive sesh?

[@jasonlovi8745]

There should be legacy bouldering competitions and gyms

[@ronsnereb]

Am I the only one who can never find the video music on youtube?

[@pablorodriguez6318]

Last song? kzbin.info/www/bejne/goqniHyfp7aVbrM try searching phrases in between quotation marks ;)

[@neo778]

Bouldering is somehow compareable to playing drums. Use arms and feet independently and keep your body controlled. It takes a lot of practice. It’s fun to see how Adam enjoys to take the challenge to become mastership in the modern dynamic style of bouldering! I’m sure he benefits from the possibility to visit many boulder gyms and participate many competitions all over the world. It’s so much fun to watch this channel and get a little glimpse behind the scenes of Adam Ondra.

[@yuriygoy]

Good productions

[@darktoad9416]

Intro song?

[@Kidiwiz]

Need this school ! x)

[@iarmdiego]

I love the intro song, someone knows the name?

[@Ninjanator1]

I'm dying to know the name too. I need something to train to.

[@KanayaT]

And he didn't even put the crack climbing clip! Too nice

[@moritzsteiner3063]

i think roof s r undermated bouldering needs more roofs cracks and chymneys in germanys boulderingshalls is miss this aspacts of climbing the biggest problem in creating dynamic boulders is the sice i think

[@Nahajasaki]

E4 !!!! :)

[@ElectronBasket]

Naha Jasaki e5

[@bauprofis2074]

I tried the Jump at 4:32 too

[@sharghaas7774]

You're such a beast

[@josephstalin2232]

Very cool video;) Greetings from Russia:)

[@xarisana]

😱😱😱

[@Wazaari85]

chiodofisso in Siena is the gym for you

[@oridrory9369]

I was thinking, why am I getting such a good vibe near the end of the video? And then I figured; "Ohyeah, ma man Adam put some Vocal Drum N Bass to support his movie. #winning I will be rooting for you at the world cup Adam!

[@Bem2015]

Came here to watch him climb

[@Ureyeuh]

Is this why Japan produces so many awesome bouldering athletes? Is it because they're creating strong dynamic climbers and countries like the U.S. aren't? Hmm...

[@shanemcman3665]

It's basically parkour

[@rorybrown7955]

Someone should count how many times he said "holds" in this video😂

[@utilitaristegaulois6477]

Ninjas or Climbers ?!!

[@erispe]

People have been climbing for over a hundred thousand years probably, not just decades. But as a documented sport, sure okay.

[@jameshabisohn1110]

Sick music choice as always!

[@gravelman5789]

Dude..... you are one step away from asking for A MORPHING WALL. MOVING IN REAL TIME ALL THE PARTS CHANGE POSTION WETHER OR NOT YOU ARE ON THEM. 😲😲😲😆😆😆

[@TheSoteriologist]

Then again: he will be used to bring home the resources 😂

[@haleyaudiss]

this is parkour...

[@k-sandre8350]

Waw

[@cocorkiller2322]

Hard enough time climbing outta bed..

[@ruubenmiguelvalles3962]

Que controvertido

[@gustavkeppler650]

second

[@Lykanthrop]

First ;P

[@obermannkind]

it's still a thing?

[@2ossy]

@@obermannkind FIRST!1!

[@kopfzucker5399]

@@obermannkind I think it will always be a thing... Never understood why though lol

[@GhostDrow]

Old school bouldering was better.

[@WeHaveSomuchHeart]

New school is lame. Go outside.

[@MattRud]

FANS OF ADAM ONDRA, He's a big inspiration to all of us and I've incorporated some of his video characteristics into my own climbing videos. Looking for feedback!

[@petermackinnon6546]

parkour needs to stay outside, that running shit isnt climbing

[@joe_3y3s]

bore off

[@wildwilie]

Peter Mackinnon Theyre climbing a wall arent they?

[@petermackinnon6546]

wildwilie depending on how you look at it it would either be called “freerunning” or “a waste of good climbing holds”

[@constantinosschinas4503]

very well said.

[@wildwilie]

@@petermackinnon6546 So you dont want any dyno's ever? Because this is what it is, a dyno. You can find them all the time in natural rock environments.

[@constantinosschinas4503]

new school bouldering = girl bouldering.

[@buzzerking]

I didn't know bouldering had a gender.

[@TurkeyMaze]

It's not "dick-aid" (decade); it's pronounced "deck-aid." Great video, though.

[@jasper374]

yeah yeah that's nice, please just stop screaming during every move so I can watch you climb with the volume on

[@leidaat7074]

Can Someone where I can find the last song? Juice Music - The time is right I can't find it...

[@thomaspeitl6198]

it's not exactly the same but i found: The Time Is Right - George Stephenson, Sonny Hudson, Lady Blaze